FR2777180A1 - Stable water-in-oil cosmetic composition with non-greasy feel - Google Patents

Abstract

Water-in-oil cosmetic composition contains (wt.%): (1) 6-12C liquid saturated hydrocarbons (I) (1-50), (2) natural phospholipids (II) (1-20), and (3) water (40-90). The preferred composition contains (wt.%): (I) (5 - 20), (II) (4 - 15), and water (50-80). The hydrocarbon (I) preferably has 8-12C atoms. An Independent claim is also included for the preparation of the composition comprising: (1) dissolving a lecithin in the hydrocarbon optionally with hydrophobic adjuvants and, separately, dissolving the hydrophilic adjuvants in water, and (2) adding the aqueous phase to the hydrophobic phase.

Description

The present invention relates to new cosmetic compositions or

  dermatological in the form of water-in-oil emulsions containing light hydrocarbons and phospholipids and their preparation process. Cosmetic formulations are generally intended to provide the skin with substances capable of improving its condition or of protecting it. These substances are, generally speaking, hydrating, protective, regulating, nutritive, etc. substances. They are very varied in chemical nature

  and can be either rather water-soluble or rather liposoluble.

  We know all the interest of phospholipids, in particular natural phospholipids such as those which we find in lecithins, for

  certain types of cosmetic formulations such as liposome dispersions.

  Furthermore, emulsions of triglycerides stabilized with lecithin are known. All these products often leave a judged touch on the skin

  too greasy during applications in the cosmetic field.

  It has now been discovered that natural phospholipids, particularly lecithins, can, after being dissolved in relatively light liquid hydrocarbons, be used to prepare remarkably stable water-in-oil emulsions having

  excellent cosmetic qualities.

  Such emulsions can be used to convey cosmetic and dermatological active ingredients in the skin, both water-soluble and liposoluble. Furthermore, water-in-oil emulsions already known containing polymer type beads in suspension. European patent EP-0 765 656 which describes cosmetic compositions containing a water-in-oil emulsion in which are suspended mixtures of organopolysiloxane powder and silica are cited. In the emulsions described in this document, the oil phase generally consists of oil of vegetable origin additionally containing at least 30% of silicone oil and the emulsifying agent is a surfactant

  with an HLB value less than or equal to 7.

  It has now been discovered, and this constitutes another particularly interesting aspect of the invention, that the emulsions which are the subject of the invention containing as essential compound of the oil phase C 6 to C 2 hydrocarbons could advantageously also contain , hydrophobic polymeric beads, and this in a stable manner. It also appeared that the presence of these hydrophobic beads within the water-in-oil emulsion of the invention led to extremely pleasant cosmetic compositions of the

  made of their lightness and having a particularly high stability.

  One of the essential characteristics of the compositions described in this document is that they are in the form of emulsions. That's why we

  will denote below indifferently by emulsions or compositions.

  Thus, according to a first aspect, the invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition for topical application in the form of an emulsion of the water-in-oil type, characterized in that it contains, expressed as a percentage by weight: - 1 to 50 %, preferably 5 to 20%, of a liquid hydrocarbon saturated with C6 to C16, preferably with C8 to Cl2, linear or branched or of a mixture of such hydrocarbons. - 1 to 20%, preferably 4 to 15%, of a natural phospholipid or a mixture of natural phospholipids,

  - 40 to 90%, preferably 50 to 80%, of water.

  The saturated liquid hydrocarbon or hydrocarbons used for the preparation of the emulsions of the invention may be any linear or branched C6 to CM6 liquid hydrocarbon or any mixture of such hydrocarbons. However, preferably C8 to Cl2 hydrocarbons will be used. A preferred hydrocarbon is

  dodecane, preferably isododecane or n-dodecane.

  As phospholipid or mixture of phospholipids, any natural phospholipid may be used. However, lecithin should preferably be used

  of soy or egg lecithin, in the proportions indicated above.

  The aqueous phase of the emulsion of the invention advantageously contains at least one C2 to C6 alcohol or a C2 to C6 polyol or a mixture of such alcohols and polyols. As preferred alcohols or polyols in C2 to C6, mention will be made of ethanol, propanol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol and sorbitol. These alcohols and / or polyols and / or mixtures of alcohols and polyols, when introduced into the emulsions of the invention preferably represent from 0.1 to 15%, preferably from 1 to 5% by weight per relative to weight

total emulsion.

  The emulsion of the invention may also contain at least one compound

  hydrophobic liquid and / or at least one waxy hydrophobic compound.

  More specifically, the emulsion of the invention may also contain from 1 to 15% by weight of a hydrophobic liquid compound or of a mixture of hydrophobic liquid compounds, said hydrophobic liquids being chosen from branched C20 to C40 hydrocarbons , preferably perhydrosqualene, liquid fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters, in particular jojoba oil,

  fatty acid triglycerides and mixtures thereof.

  It can also additionally contain from 0.1 to 10% by weight of a compound or of a mixture of waxy hydrophobic compounds, preferably chosen from microcrystalline waxes, hydrocarbon waxes, beeswax, sterols. By fatty acid within the meaning of the invention is meant acids containing

from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

  By fatty alcohol within the meaning of the invention means alcohols containing

from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

  The liquid esters of fatty acid and of fatty alcohol optionally entering into the composition of the emulsions of the invention are advantageously chosen from natural liquid esters. As such, the oil will advantageously be used

  of jojoba. But, one can also resort to synthetic jojoba oil.

  Finally, the emulsions of the invention may contain various adjuvants, both hydrophilic and lipophilic, conventionally used in

  cosmetic or dermatological compositions.

  Thus, the emulsions of the invention may advantageously contain: from 0.1 to 1% by weight of additives chosen from preservatives, bactericides, fungicides, - from 1 to 5% by weight of a UV filter or d '' a mixture of UV filters, - from 0.1 to 5% by weight of perfumes, - from 1 to 10% by weight of solid particles chosen from

  pigments, micropigments and mineral fillers.

  Finally, as indicated above, the emulsions of the invention may advantageously contain polymeric particles

  hydrophobic, possibly surface treated.

  Such particles have the advantage of helping to improve the feel of the emulsion, which improves its cosmetic qualities. Furthermore, they also make it possible to stabilize the emulsion, which is an advantage.

extra from their presence.

  These solid polymer particles can consist of any hydrophobic polymer, a methylsiloxane such as Tospearl 145 from the company KOBO, a polyethylene acrylate such as EA 209 will advantageously be chosen.

  from KOBO or a polyethylene such as CL 2080 from KOBO.

  The dimensions of the beads are advantageously of the order of 1 to 30 microns and preferably 3 to 10 microns. They will be present in the composition in proportions of 0.1 to 5 and preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to said composition. Furthermore, when polymeric beads as defined above are introduced into the composition, advantageously 0.1 to 5% by weight, in addition to said emulsion, of a hydrophilic-hydrophobic block copolymer, for example, are introduced. a copolymer of polyethylene glycol (PEG) and dodecylglycol, such as Elfacos ST 37 from the company AKZO, which is a copolymer of PEG-22 and dodecylglycol. Such

  copolymer also contributes to improving the stability of the emulsion.

  The advantage of the emulsions described above is essentially that they can be used as an agent intended to transport in the skin of

  hydrophobic as well as hydrophilic substances.

  The hydrophilic or hydrophobic substances targeted can be any cosmetic or dermatological agent soluble in water, in hydrocarbons or

in oils.

  These compositions in the form of emulsions of the invention advantageously contain 0.001 to 5% by weight of cosmetic or dermatological active agents chosen from cosmetic or dermatological agents

  soluble in water, or in hydrocarbons or oils.

  By way of nonlimiting examples of cosmetic or dermatological active substances, particular mention will be made of those chosen from the group consisting of vitamins and vitamin derivatives, trace elements, amino acids, ceramides, sterols, retinoic acid, ecdysteroids such as 20-hydroxyecdysone, [3-glycyrrhetinic acid, ammonium glycyrrhizinate, hydroquinone and its derivatives, kojic acid, urea, sodium pyroglutamate, triterpenes, ginsenosides, acid derivatives

  asian and madecassic, senricoside, visnadine, caffeine, mono-

  and dimethylxanthines, plant extracts, algae extracts, yeast extracts, bacteria extracts, mushroom extracts, melatonin, DHEA, proteins, fatty alcohols, sugars, cL-hydroxy acids , essential oils, panthenol, salicylic acid. Finally, according to another essential characteristic, the invention relates to a process for preparing the compositions in the form of emulsions such as

have been defined previously.

  According to this process: -lecithin is dissolved in a hydrophobic phase consisting of the hydrocarbon or mixture of hydrocarbons and any hydrophobic adjuvants to prepare a first phase called hydrophobic phase A, - the hydrophilic adjuvants are dissolved in water to prepare a phase called aqueous phase B, - add aqueous phase B to hydrophobic phase A.

EXAMPLES

  The cosmetic compositions the formulation of which is given in the examples below in which the proportions of the various constituents are expressed in percentages by weight are prepared by following the following operating method: 1) The hydrophobic adjuvants (if there are any) are dissolved or scattered under

  agitation in the hydrocarbon or mixture of hydrocarbons.

  2) The lecithin is dissolved with stirring in the liquid obtained above, if necessary by heating to a temperature below the boiling point of the hydrocarbons. Thus preparing a first phase A designated below by phase A. 3) The hydrophilic adjuvants are dissolved in water with stirring to prepare an aqueous phase, hereinafter designated by phase B. 4) the aqueous phase B is added slowly, with stirring, mixing

performed in 2) (Phase A).

  EXAMPLE 1 Skin Treatment Product intended to Combat the Effects of Aging Phase A: Isododecane 6 Vitamin A Propionate 0.5 Vitamin F 0.5 Soy Lecithin 4 Fragrance 0.5 Phase B: Glycerol 4 Parahydroxybenzoates 0.5 Dry extract of Centella asiatica 0.5 Vitamin E phosphate 0.2 Vitamin C phosphate 0.5 Water qs 100 Example 2: Slimming product for the body Phase A: Isododecane 6 Plectanthrus barbatus extract 0.5 Soy lecithin 4 Fragrance 0.5 Phase B: Glycerol 4 Parahydroxybenzoates 0.5 Caffeine 0.5 Water qs 100 Example 3: Product for sensitive skin Phase A: Isododecane 5 Jojoba oil 4 Glycyrrhetinic acid 0.2 Soy lecithin 4 Fragrance 0.5 Phase B : Butylene glycol 2 Vitamin E phosphate 0.2 Dry extract of Scutellaria baicalensis 0.5 Parahydroxybenzoates 0.5 Water qs 100 Example 4: Product for dry skin Phase A: Isododecane 10 Jojoba oil 10 Perhydrosqualene 3 1 5 Ceramides 0.5 Vitamin F 0.5 Soy lecithin 3 Lecithin Egg 2 Perfume 0.5 Phase B: Sorbitol 2 Sodium pyroglutamate 1 Beta ecdysone 0.2 Parahydroxybenzoates 0.5 Water qs 100 Example 5: Anti-acne dermatology product Phase A: Isododecane 6 Transretinoic acid 0.02 Lecithin soy 4 Phase B: ammonium glycyrrhizinate 0.1 Glycerin 2 Preservatives p- hydroxybenzoates 0.5 Water qs 100 Example 6 Cream for sensitive skin Phase A: Isododecane 8 Soy lecithin 12 Tospearl 145 2 Glycyrrhetinic acid 0.2 Perfume 0, 4 Phase B: Preservatives 0.6 Glycerin 4 Sericoside 0.2 Water qs 100 Example 7: Whitening cream Phase A: Isododecane 10 Soy lecithin 10 EA 209 0.2 Salicylic acid 1 Perfume 0.4 Phase B: Preservatives 0.6 Glycerin 4 Kojic acid 0.5 Water qs 100 Example 8: Sun tanning cream Phase A: Isododecane 18 UV filter 4 Soy lecithin 8 Plectanthrus barbatus extract 0.5 Tospearl 145 1 Perfume 0.5 block copolymer (Elfacos ST37) 2 Phase B: Theophyline 0.2 Preservative 0.5 Vitamin phosphate E 0.2 Water qs 100 Example 9: Anti-stress cream Phase A: Isododecane 5 Perhydrosqualene 5 Alcolec F100 (soy lecithin) 5 Block copolymer (Elfacos ST37) 2 EA 209 1 Bergamot essential oil without Bergaptene 1 Phase B: Preservatives 0.5 Ammonium glycyrrhizinate 0.1 Water qs 100

Claims (16)

  1. Cosmetic or dermatological composition for topical application, in the form of an emulsion of the water-in-oil type, characterized in that it contains, expressed as a percentage by weight: - 1 to 50%, preferably 5 to 20%, of a liquid hydrocarbon saturated with C6 to C16, preferably in C8 to C12, linear or branched or of a mixture of such hydrocarbons. - 1 to 20%, preferably 4 to 15%, of a natural phospholipid or a mixture of natural phospholipids,   - 40 to 90%, preferably 50 to 80%, of water.   2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that said   C6 to C6 hydrocarbon is a dodecane, preferably isododecane or n- dodecane.   3. Composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in   that said phospholipid (s) are chosen from lecithins,   preferably soy lecithin or egg lecithin.   4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that   that it further comprises from 0.1 to 15%, preferably from 1 to 5% by weight of an alcohol or of a polyol having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms or of a mixture of such alcohols, and / or polyols preferably chosen from the group consisting of ethanol,   propanol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol and sorbitol.   5. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that   that it also contains from 1 to 15% by weight of a hydrophobic liquid compound or of a mixture of hydrophobic liquid compounds, said hydrophobic liquid compounds being chosen from branched C20 to C40 hydrocarbons, preferably perhydrosqualene, liquid fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters, in   especially jojoba oil, fatty acid triglycerides.   6. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that   that it additionally contains from 0.1 to 10% by weight of a compound or of a mixture of waxy hydrophobic compounds, preferably chosen from waxes   microcrystallines, hydrocarbon waxes, beeswax, sterols.   7. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that   that it also contains from 0.1 to 1% by weight of additives chosen from   preservatives, bactericides and fungicides. l1   8. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that   that it also contains from 1 to 5% by weight of a UV filter or of a mixture of UV filters.   9. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that   that it also contains 0.1 to 5% by weight of perfumes.   10. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in   which it also contains from 1 to 10% by weight of selected solid particles   among pigments, micropigments and mineral fillers.   11. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in   which it further comprises 0.1 to 5% and preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight of   hydrophobic polymeric solid particles, optionally surface-treated.   12. Composition according to claim 11, characterized in that said hydrophobic polymeric solid particles are particles of 1 to microns and preferably 3 to 10 microns made of a polymer chosen from   the group of methylsiloxanes, polyethylene acrylates, polyethylenes.   13. Composition according to one of claims 11 or 12, characterized   in that it additionally contains 0.1 to 5% by weight of a hydrophilic-hydrophobic block copolymer.   14. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in   which it also contains 0.001 to 5% by weight of cosmetic or dermatological active agents chosen from cosmetic or dermatological agents   soluble in water or in hydrocarbons or oils.   15. Composition according to Claim 14, characterized in that the said cosmetic or dermatological active agents are chosen from the group consisting of vitamins and derivatives of vitamins, trace elements, amino acids, ceramides, sterols, acid retinoic, ecdysteroids such as 20-hydroxyecdysone, [3-glycyrrhetinic acid, ammonium glycyrrhizinate, hydroquinone and its derivatives, kojic acid, urea, sodium pyroglutamate , triterpenes, ginsenosides, acid derivatives   asian and madecassic, sericoside, visnadine, caffeine, mono-   and dimethylxanthines, plant extracts, algae extracts, yeast extracts, bacteria extracts, mushroom extracts, melatonin, DHEA, proteins, fatty alcohols, sugars, cc-hydroxy acids ,   essential oils, panthenol, salicylic acid.   16. Method for preparing a composition according to one of   Claims 1 to 15, characterized in that:   - the lecithin is dissolved in a hydrophobic phase consisting of the hydrocarbon or of the mixture of hydrocarbons and any hydrophobic adjuvants to prepare a first phase called hydrophobic phase A, - the hydrophilic adjuvants are dissolved in water to prepare a so-called phase aqueous phase B, - the aqueous phase B is added to the hydrophobic phase A.