FR3127693A1 - TRANSPARENT COMPOSITION COMPRISING A POLYHYDROXYACID - Google Patents

Abstract

TRANSPARENT COMPOSITION COMPRISING A POLYHYDROXY ACID The present invention relates to a transparent composition comprising: (a) at least one first compound selected from polyhydroxy acids and their salts; (b) at least one second compound selected from vitamin B3 and its derivatives; (c) at least one alkylene oxide derivative represented by a specific chemical formula; and (d) water, wherein the amount of the first compound(s) in the composition is 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the present invention is transparent, and can provide less stickiness and reduced skin discomfort such as reduced skin irritation, when the composition is applied to the skin, although the composition includes a relatively significant amount of polyhydroxy acid or salt thereof Figure for abstract: NONE

Description

TRANSPARENT COMPOSITION COMPRISING A POLYHYDROXYACID

The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, which comprises a relatively large amount of polyhydroxy acid.

art background

Exfoliation is a well-known means for improving the appearance of the surface of the skin, in particular for treating visible and/or tactile irregularities of human skin, and for example for reducing pigmentation defects such as freckles or marks due to acne or chickenpox, or to smooth uneven skin texture, including fine lines or wrinkles.

This scrub has the effect of eliminating part of the skin to be treated (epidermis and optionally the upper layer of the dermis) by chemical processes such as the application of compositions containing one or more scrubbing agents stimulating the desquamation of the skin, by example of alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA) such as glycolic acid or beta-hydroxy acids (BHA) such as salicylic acid, or other active substances such as retinoic acid, resorcinol, trichloroacetic acid or phenol.

disclosure of the invention

Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs), as well as their salts, are also useful as peeling agents. In general, PHAs have a larger molecule size than AHAs. Therefore, PHAs do not tend to penetrate the skin as deeply as AHAs when applied to the skin. Thus, PHAs are generally less irritating and preferable for sensitive skin in particular.

However, it has been found that if a relatively large amount of PHA is used in a composition, the composition becomes sticky and causes skin discomfort such as skin irritation when the composition is applied to the skin. Adding a substantial amount of oil to the composition can reduce stickiness. However, the composition including a substantial amount of oil becomes non-transparent. Transparency is sometimes important for consumer products such as cosmetics including skin scrub compositions.

An object of the present invention is to provide a transparent composition which can provide less stickiness and cause a reduction in skin discomfort, such as a reduction in skin irritation, when the composition is applied to the skin. , even if the composition includes a relatively large amount of polyhydroxy acid or salt thereof.

The above object of the present invention can be achieved by a transparent composition comprising:

(a) at least one first compound chosen from polyhydroxy acids and their salts;

(b) at least one second compound chosen from vitamin B3 and its derivatives;

(c) at least one alkylene oxide derivative represented by the following chemical formula (I):

Z-{O(AO) _l (EO) _m -(BO) _n H} _a (I)

in which

Z denotes a residue obtained by removing hydroxyl groups from a compound having 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups;

AO denotes an oxyalkylene group having 3 to 4 carbon atoms;

EO denotes an oxyethylene group;

BO denotes an oxyalkylene group having 4 carbon atoms;

a represents 3 to 9;

l, m and n denote the average number of moles of addition of AO, EO and BO, respectively, and 1 ≤ l ≤ 50, 1 ≤ m ≤ 50 and 0.5 ≤ n ≤ 5;

the AO to EO weight ratio (AO/EO) is between 1/5 and 5/1; And

AO and EO may have been added randomly or in sequences; And

(d) water,

in which

the amount of the first compound(s) in the composition is 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more , relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (a) first compound may be in the form of a lactone.

The (a) first compound may be gluconolactone.

The amount of the first compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (b) second compound may be niacinamide.

The amount of second compound(s) (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (c) alkylene oxide derivative can be represented by the following chemical formula (II):

Gly-{O(PO) _s (EO) _t -(BO) _u H} ₃ (II)

in which

Gly denotes a residue obtained by removal of hydroxyl groups from glycerine;

PO denotes an oxypropylene group;

EO denotes an oxyethylene group;

s and t represent the average number of moles of addition of PO and EO, respectively, and have a value ranging from 1 to 50;

the weight ratio PO to EO (PO/EO) is between 1/5 and 5/1;

BO denotes an oxyalkylene group having 4 carbon atoms; And

u denotes the average number of moles of addition of BO, and is in the range of 0.5 to 5.

The (c) alkylene oxide derivative can be PEG/PPG/Polybutylene glycol-8/5/3 glycerine.

The amount of (c) derivative(s) of alkylene oxide(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to 12% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention may also comprise (e) at least one oil in an amount less than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than or equal to 0 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (f) at least one additional compound selected from alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids, phytic acid and mixtures thereof, which is (are) different from (a ) first compound.

The amount of the additional compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 4% by weight, and in such a way more preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin, and more preferably a scrub composition for the skin.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating a keratinous substance, preferably for treating the skin, and more preferably for exfoliating the skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous substance.

The present invention also relates to a use of a combination of

(b) at least one second compound chosen from vitamin B3 and its derivatives; And

(c) at least one alkylene oxide derivative represented by the following chemical formula (I):

Z-{O(AO) _l (EO) _m -(BO) _n H} _a (I)

in which

Z denotes a residue obtained by removing hydroxyl groups from a compound having 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups;

AO denotes an oxyalkylene group having 3 to 4 carbon atoms;

EO denotes an oxyethylene group;

BO denotes an oxyalkylene group having 4 carbon atoms;

a represents 3 to 9;

l, m and n denote the average number of moles of addition of AO, EO and BO, respectively, and 1 ≤ l ≤ 50, 1 ≤ m ≤ 50 and 0.5 ≤ n ≤ 5;

the AO to EO weight ratio (AO/EO) is between 1/5 and 5/1; And

AO and EO may have been added randomly or in sequences;

in a composition comprising:

(a) at least one first compound chosen from polyhydroxy acids and their salts; And

(d) water

in which

the amount of the first compound(s) in the composition is 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more , relative to the total weight of the composition,

to reduce stickiness and skin discomfort such as skin irritation caused by the composition when applied to the skin.

After diligent research, the inventors have found that it is possible to provide a transparent composition which can ensure less stickiness and the reduction of skin discomfort such as skin irritation, when the composition is applied to the skin, even if the composition includes a relatively large amount of polyhydroxy acid or salt thereof.

Thus, one aspect of the present invention is a composition comprising:

(a) at least one first compound chosen from polyhydroxy acids and their salts;

(b) at least one second compound chosen from vitamin B3 and its derivatives;

(c) at least one alkylene oxide derivative represented by the following chemical formula (I):

Z-{O(AO) _l (EO) _m -(BO) _n H} _a (I)

in which

Z denotes a residue obtained by removing hydroxyl groups from a compound having 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups;

AO denotes an oxyalkylene group having 3 to 4 carbon atoms;

EO denotes an oxyethylene group;

BO denotes an oxyalkylene group having 4 carbon atoms;

a represents 3 to 9;

l, m and n denote the average number of moles of addition of AO, EO and BO, respectively, and 1 ≤ l ≤ 50, 1 ≤ m ≤ 50 and 0.5 ≤ n ≤ 5;

the AO to EO weight ratio (AO/EO) is between 1/5 and 5/1; And

AO and EO may have been added randomly or in sequences; And

(d) water,

in which

the amount of the first compound(s) in the composition is 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more , relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention is transparent.

The composition according to the present invention is less sticky, although the composition includes a relatively large amount of polyhydroxy acid or its salt, i.e. 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition, and therefore it can provide reduced stickiness to the touch.

The term “tacky” here designates a property which imparts a sticky feeling to the skin.

Thus, the composition according to the present invention can provide excellent feeling during use, in particular, excellent skin feeling after application of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention can provide less discomfort to the skin. By discomfort for the skin, we mean here an inconvenience that is not related to the texture, such as stickiness. Examples of discomforts include tingling, pain, burning and others.

The scope of skin discomfort includes skin irritation. Thus, the composition according to the present invention may be less irritating to the skin. In other words, the composition according to the present invention can be gentle on the skin.

The composition according to the present invention can make it possible to reduce the risk of inflammation of the skin.

Accordingly, the composition according to the present invention is transparent, and can provide less stickiness and reduced skin discomfort, such as reduced skin irritation, when the composition is applied to the skin, although the composition includes a relatively large amount of polyhydroxy acid or salt thereof.

The composition according to the present invention is useful for exfoliating the horny layer or stratum corneum of the skin.

The composition according to the present invention can provide cosmetic effects of skin exfoliation, skin condition improvement, and the like, in terms of both appearance and skin feel, including smoothing the skin, refining and brightening the complexion, reducing imperfections, pores and blackheads.

Hereinafter, the composition according to the present invention will be explained in more detail.

[Polyhydroxyacid]

The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one first compound chosen from polyhydroxy acids and their salts. If two or more first compounds are used, they may be the same or different.

The term "polyhydroxy acid" herein means an organic compound which has at least one carboxyl group and a plurality of hydroxy groups. The number of carboxyl groups in the polyhydroxy acid is not limited, but one or two carboxyl groups are preferable, and one carboxyl group is more preferable. The number of hydroxyl groups in the polyhydroxy acid is also not limited, but 2 to 10 is preferable, and 2 to 6 is more preferable. The number of carbon atoms in the polyhydroxy acid is not limited, but 3 to 11 is preferable, and 3 to 8 is more preferable.

The above organic compound can be aliphatic or aromatic. In other words, the polyhydroxy acid can be chosen from aliphatic polyhydroxy acids or aromatic polyhydroxy acids. It is preferable that the aliphatic polyhydroxy acid is chosen from sugar acids.

Examples of polyhydroxy acid include a dihydroxypropanoic acid such as glyceric acid; a trihydroxybutanoic acid such as erythronic acid and threonic acid; a tetrahydroxypentanoic acid such as ribonic acid, arabinoic acid, xylonic acid and lyxonic acid; a pentahydroxyhexanoic acid such as allonic acid, altronic acid, gluconic acid, mannoic acid, gulonic acid, idonic acid, galactonic acid and talonic acid; a hexahydroxyheptanoic acid such as glucoheptanoic acid, galactoheptonic acid; tartaric acid; lactobionic acid, maltobionic acid and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the first compound (a) is in the form of a lactone. The lactone ring of (a) the first compound in the form of a lactone can be saturated. Examples of (a) the first compound include gluconolactone, ribonolactone, and mixtures thereof.

It is further preferred that the (a) first compound is gluconolactone.

The type of salt is not limited. Examples of salt include alkali metal salts such as sodium salt and potassium salt; alkaline earth metal salts such as calcium salt and magnesium salt; zinc salts; iron salts; ammonium salts; amine salts such as monoethanolamine salt, diethanolamine salt and triethanolamine salt; and their mixtures. Sodium salt is preferable. If two or more salts are used, they may be the same or different.

The amount of the first compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention is 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

On the other hand, the amount of the first compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the first compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Vitamin B3 and its derivatives].

The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one second compound chosen from vitamin B3 and its derivatives. If two or more second compounds are used, they may be the same or different.

Vitamin B3, also called vitamin PP, is a compound with the following formula:

wherein R can be -CONH ₂ (niacinamide), -COOH (nicotinic acid or niacin), or CH ₂ OH (nicotinic alcohol), -CO-NH-CH ₂ -COOH (nicotinuric acid) or -CO-NH-OH (niconityl hydroxamic acid). Niacinamide is preferred.

Vitamin B3 derivatives which may be mentioned include, for example, nicotinic acid esters such as tocopherol nicotinate, amides derived from niacinamide by substitution of the hydrogen groups of -CONH ₂ , reaction products with carboxylic acids and amino acids, nicotinic alcohol esters and carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid or palmitic acid.

Mention may also be made of the following derivatives: 2-chloronicotinamide, 6-methylnicotinamide, 6-aminonicotinamide, N-methylnicotinamide, N,N-dimethylnicotinamide, N-(hydroxymethyl)nicotinamide, quinolinic acid imide, nicotinanilide, N-benzylnicotinamide, N-ethylnicotinamide, nifenazone, nicotinaldehyde, isonicotinic acid, methylisonicotinic acid, thionicotinamide, nialamide, 2-mercaptonicotinic acid, nicomol and niaprazine, methyl nicotinate and sodium nicotinate.

Other derivatives of vitamin B3 which may also be mentioned include its inorganic salts, such as chlorides, bromides, iodides or carbonates, and its organic salts, such as the salts obtained by reaction with carboxylic acids, such as acetate , salicylate, glycolate, lactate, malate, citrate, mandelate, tartrate, etc.

It is preferable that the (b) second compound chosen from vitamin B3 and its derivatives has a log P of -0.7 to 6, and preferably of -0.5 to 4.

A log P value is a value for the base ten logarithm of the apparent octan-1-ol/water partition coefficient. Log P values are known and are determined by a standard test which determines the concentration of (b) second compound in octan-1-ol and water. The log P can be calculated according to the method described in the article by Meylan and Howard: Atom/Fragment contribution method for estimating octanol-water partition coefficients , J. Pharm. Sci., 84: 83-92, 1995. This value can also be calculated using many commercially available software programs which determine log P based on the structure of a molecule. An example is the US Environmental Agency's Epiwin software.

In particular, the values can be calculated using the ACD (Advanced Chemistry Development) software Solaris V4.67; they can also be obtained in Exploring QSAR: hydrophobic, electronic and steric constants (ACS professional reference book, 1995). There is also a website that provides estimated values (address: http://esc.syrres.com/interkow/kowdemo.htm).

It is more preferably that (b) second compound is niacinamide.

The amount of the second compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, and more preferably 3% by weight. or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

On the other hand, the amount of the second compound(s) (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 15% by weight, and more preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the second compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Alkylene oxide derivative]

The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one alkylene oxide derivative. If two or more alkylene oxide derivatives are used, they may be the same or different.

The (c) alkylene oxide derivative is represented by the following chemical formula (I):

Z-{O(AO) _l (EO) _m -(BO) _n H} _a (I)

in which

Z denotes a residue obtained by removing hydroxyl groups from a compound having 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups;

AO denotes an oxyalkylene group having 3 to 4 carbon atoms;

EO denotes an oxyethylene group;

BO denotes an oxyalkylene group having 4 carbon atoms;

a represents 3 to 9;

l, m and n denote the average number of moles of addition of AO, EO and BO, respectively, and 1 ≤ l ≤ 50, 1 ≤ m ≤ 50 and 0.5 ≤ n ≤ 5;

the AO to EO weight ratio (AO/EO) is between 1/5 and 5/1; And

AO and EO may have been added randomly or as sequences.

In the alkylene oxide derivative represented by the formula (I), Z denotes a residue obtained by removing hydroxyl groups from a compound having 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups, and a denotes the number of hydroxyl groups of the compound and denotes 3 to 9. As examples of compounds having from 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups, mention may be made, for example, in the case of a=3, of glycerol, and trimethylolpropane; in the case of a = 4, erythritol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, alkylglycosides, and diglycerin; in the case of a=5, xylitol; in the case of a=6, dipentaerythritol, sorbitol and inositol; in the case of a=8, sucrose and trehalose; in the case of a=9, maltitol; mixtures thereof; and the like. Preferably, Z denotes a residue obtained by removing the hydroxyl group(s) from a compound having 3 to 6 hydroxyl groups, and a satisfies 3 ≤ a ≤ 6. As a compound having 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups, glycerin or trimethylolpropane is preferable, and in particular, glycerine is preferable. In the case of a ≤ 2, poor compatibility with oily components such as fats and oils occurs, and the stability of the mixture in an oil-based formulation tends to deteriorate. In the case of 10 ≤ a, stickiness is induced.

AO denotes an oxyalkylene group having 3 to 4 carbon atoms. Examples include, for example, an oxypropylene group, an oxybutylene group (an oxy-n-butylene group, an oxyisobutylene group or an oxy-t-butylene group), an oxytrimethylene group, an oxytetramethylene group, and the like. Oxypropylene group and oxybutylene group are preferable, and oxypropylene group is more preferred.

l denotes the average addition mole number of AO, and satisfies 1 ≤ l ≤ 50, and preferably 2 ≤ l ≤ 20. m denotes the average addition mole number of EO, and satisfies 1 ≤ m ≤ 50, and preferably 2 ≤ m ≤ 20. If l is 0, stickiness occurs. On the other hand, if l exceeds 50, the moisturizing effects are diminished. Furthermore, if m is equal to 0, the moisturizing effects are diminished. On the other hand, if m exceeds 50, stickiness occurs.

The weight ratio AO to EO (AO/EO) is between 1/5 and 5/1, and preferably between 1/4 and 4/1. If AO/EO is less than 1/5, stickiness occurs. On the other hand, if AO/EO exceeds 5/1, the sensation of hydration is diminished. The order of adding AO and EO is not particularly specified. The AOs and EOs may have been added randomly or as sequences. In order to achieve superior skin roughness prevention effects, AO and EO were preferably added randomly.

BO denotes an oxyalkylene group having 4 carbon atoms. Examples include, for example, an oxybutylene group (an oxy-n-butylene group, an oxy-isobutylene group or an oxy-t-butylene group), an oxytetramethylene group and the like. The oxybutylene group is preferable.

n denotes the average addition mole number of BO, and satisfies 0.5 <n ≤ 5, preferably 0.8 ≤ n ≤ 3, and more preferably 1 ≤ n ≤ 3. If n is less than 0 .5, stickiness occurs. On the other hand, if n exceeds 5, the moisturizing effects are reduced. In formula (I), it is necessary for (BO)n to bind to the terminal hydrogen atom.

The alkylene oxide derivatives represented by formula (I) can be produced by known methods. For example, the alkylene oxide derivatives represented by the formula (I) can be obtained by addition polymerization of ethylene oxide and an alkylene oxide having 3 or 4 carbon atoms into a compound having 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups, followed by reaction with an alkylene oxide having 4 carbon atoms. In the addition polymerization of ethylene oxide and an alkylene oxide having 3 to 4 carbon atoms to a compound having 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups, ethylene oxide and alkylene oxide can be polymerized randomly or in sequences.

Among the alkylene oxide derivatives represented by the formula (I), preferable examples of the aforementioned alkylene oxide derivatives include, for example, an alkylene oxide derivative (polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol) represented by the formula (II) shown below:

Gly-{O(PO) _s (EO) _t -(BO) _u H} ₃ (II)

in which

Gly denotes a residue obtained by removal of hydroxyl groups from glycerin;

PO denotes an oxypropylene group;

EO denotes an oxyethylene group;

s and t represent the average number of moles of addition of PO and EO, respectively, and have a value ranging from 1 to 50;

the weight ratio PO to EO (PO/EO) is between 1/5 and 5/1;

BO denotes an oxyalkylene group having 4 carbon atoms; And

u denotes the average number of moles of addition of BO, and is in the range of 0.5 to 5.

The above-mentioned alkylene oxide derivative represented by the formula (II) can be obtained by adding propylene oxide and ethylene oxide to glycerine in the ratio of 3 to 150 molar equivalents of each of propylene oxide and ethylene oxide with respect to glycerin, and then, adding the alkylene oxide having 4 carbon atoms in the ratio of 1.5 to 15 molar equivalents of that this compared to glycerin.

In the case of adding the aforementioned alkylene oxides to glycerin, the addition reactions are carried out with an alkaline catalyst, a phase transfer catalyst, a Lewis acid catalyst, or the like. In general, an alkaline catalyst such as potassium hydroxide is preferred.

Among the alkylene oxide derivatives represented by the formula (I), more preferred derivatives are obtained by adding 6 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide and 3 to 7 moles of propylene oxide to glycerine, then by adding 2 to 4 mol of butylene oxide.

Among the alkylene oxide derivatives represented by the formula (I), another more preferred derivative is polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol, which is obtained by adding 8 mol of ethylene oxide and 5 mol of propylene oxide to glycerine, then adding 3 mol of butylene oxide, and whose INCI name is PEG/PPG/polybutylene glycol-8/5/3 glycerine. PEG/PPG/Polybutylene glycol-8/5/3 glycerin is commercially available under the trade name WILBRIDE S-753 from NOF Corporation.

The amount of (c) derivative(s) of alkylene oxide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

On the other hand, the amount of (c) derivative(s) of alkylene oxide(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be 12% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less. , and more preferably 8% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (c) derivative(s) of alkylene oxide(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to 12% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[Water]

The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) water.

The amount of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 40% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more, and more preferably 60% by weight or more, by relative to the total weight of the composition.

On the other hand, the amount of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be less than or equal to 90% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 80% by weight, and more preferably less than or equal to equal to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 40% to 90% by weight, preferably 50% to 80% by weight, and more preferably 60% to 70% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Oil]

The composition according to the present invention may comprise (e) at least one oil in a limited quantity. If two or more oils are used, they may be the same or different.

By “oil”, we mean here a compound or a fatty substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

The (e)oil can be a non-polar oil such as hydrocarbon oil, silicone oil, or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture of these.

The (e)oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.

Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils and artificial triglycerides.

The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic monoacids or polyacids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of aliphatic C ₁ -C ₂₆ monoalcohols or polyalcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for esters of monoalcohols, at least one of the alcohol and the acid, from which the esters of the present invention are derived, is branched.

Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

It is also possible to use esters of C ₄ -C ₂₂ dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C ₁ -C ₂₂ alcohols, as well as esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy non-sugar C ₄ -C ₂₆ alcohols.

Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroy sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentylglycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

As ester oils, it is possible to use sugar esters and diesters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ and preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids. It is recalled that the term “sugar” designates hydrocarbon compounds bearing oxygen comprising several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Examples of suitable sugars which may be mentioned include sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof. , in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

The sugar esters of fatty acids can be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters described above and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C ₆ -C _{30 and preferably C 6 -C 30} fatty acids. _C12 - _C22 . If unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

These esters can be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or their mixtures such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular sucrose, glucose or methylglucose mono- or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates.

An example that can be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Examples of preferable ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononanoate d isononyl, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), tetra(2 -ethylhexanoate) pentaerythrithyl, 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, caprylic/capric glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, tri(caprate/caprylate ) glyceryl and glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate/linolenate).

Examples of silicone oils include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and others; and their mixtures.

Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

These silicone oils can also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones which can be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and contain in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon group.

Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:

(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold as Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula:

Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2 ,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; And

(ii) volatile linear polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5×10 ^-6 m ² /s at 25°C. An example is the decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics . The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25°C according to the ASTM 445 Annex C standard.

Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which there may be mentioned mainly polydimethylsiloxanes containing terminal trimethylsilyl groups.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, without limitation, of the following commercial products:

- Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 range or Mirasil® oils marketed by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000;

- oils from the Mirasil® range sold by Rhodia;

- the oils of the 200 range from Dow Corning, such as DC200, the viscosity of which is 60,000 mm ² /s; And

- Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF range (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol terminal groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 range from the company Rhodia.

Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as a phenyl silicone oil.

The phenyl silicone oil can be chosen from the phenyl silicones of the following formula:

Examples include products sold under the following names:

- Silbione® oils from the 70 641 range from Rhodia;

- oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 range from Rhodia;

- Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning;

- silicones from Bayer's PK range, such as the PK20 product;

- certain oils from General Electric's SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

The organomodified liquid silicones may in particular contain polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups. Mention may thus be made of the KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu, and the Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.

The hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from:

in which

R ₁ to R ₁₀ , independently of each other, are C ₁ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon radicals, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched, preferably C ₁ -C ₁₂ hydrocarbon radicals, and more preferably C ₁ -C ₆ hydrocarbon radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals, and

m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers from 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably from 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably from 0 to 100 inclusive,

provided that the sum n+m+q is different from 0.

Examples include products sold under the following names:

- Silbione® oils from the 70 641 range from Rhodia;

- oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 range from Rhodia;

- Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning;

- silicones from Bayer's PK range, such as the PK20 product;

- certain oils from General Electric's SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

As the phenyl silicone oil, phenyltrimethicone (R ₁ to R ₁₀ are methyl groups; p, q and n = 0; m = 1 in the above formula) is preferable.

The organomodified liquid silicones may in particular contain polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups. Mention may thus be made of the KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu, and the Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.

The hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from:

- C ₆ -C ₁₆ lower alkanes, linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Examples which may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; And

- linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam®, and squalane.

Preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g. liquid paraffin), paraffin, petroleum jelly or petrolatum, naphthalenes and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan and decene/butene copolymer; and their mixtures.

The term "fatty" in fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms fall within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohol can be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohol can be linear or branched.

The fatty alcohol can have the R-OH structure in which R is chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be selected from C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alkyl and C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.

Examples of fatty alcohol include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonic alcohol, erucic alcohol and mixtures thereof.

It is preferred that the fatty alcohol be a saturated fatty alcohol.

Thus, the fatty alcohol can be chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₆ -C ₃₀ alcohols, preferably linear or branched, saturated C ₆ -C ₃₀ alcohols, and more preferably alcohols in C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ linear or branched, saturated.

The term "saturated fatty alcohol" herein means an alcohol having a saturated long aliphatic carbon chain. It is preferable for the saturated fatty alcohol to be chosen from all the saturated fatty alcohols, linear or branched, C ₆ -C ₃₀ . Among the saturated C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols, linear or branched, the saturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ fatty alcohols, linear or branched, can preferably be used. All saturated C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ fatty alcohols, linear or branched, can be used more preferably. C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ branched fatty alcohols can be used even more preferably.

Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or a mixture thereof (eg, cetearyl alcohol) as well as behenyl alcohol, can be used as the saturated fatty alcohol.

According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof.

It is also preferable for the (e) oil to be chosen from oils with a molecular weight of less than 600 g/mol.

Preferably, the (e) oil has a low molecular weight such as less than 600 g/mol, chosen from ester oils with one or more short hydrocarbon chains (C ₁ -C ₁₂ ) (for example, sarcosinate isopropyl lauroyl, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isonyl isononanoate, and ethyl hexyl palmitate), silicone oils (for example, volatile silicones such as cyclohexasiloxane), hydrocarbon oils (for example, isododecane, isohexadecane and squalane), fatty alcohol type oils (C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ ) branched and / or unsaturated such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol, and ether oils such as dicaprylic ether.

The (e) oil can be chosen from polar oils, preferably from ester oils, and more preferably isopropyl myristate, and from non-polar oils, preferably ether oils, and from more preferably dicaprylyl ether.

It is preferable that the amount of oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention be less than or equal to 1% by weight, more preferably less than or equal to 0.1% by weight, and even more preferably less than or equal to equal to 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

It is entirely preferable that the composition according to the present invention does not comprise any oil.

However, the amount of oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more.

[Additional Compound]

The composition according to the present invention may comprise (f) at least one additional compound selected from alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids, phytic acid and mixtures thereof, which is different from (a) the first compound. If two or more additional compounds are used, they may be the same or different.

The term "alpha-hydroxy acid", or "AHA", here means a carboxylic acid which has at least one carboxyl group and at least one hydroxyl group separated by a carbon atom. So, in other words, AHA is a carboxylic acid that has at least one hydroxyl group on the adjacent (alpha) carbon atom.

The alpha-hydroxy acid can be chosen from, for example, glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, mandelic acid and mixtures thereof, preferably from glycolic acid, citric acid and mixtures thereof, more preferably from glycolic acid.

The term "beta-hydroxy acid", or "BHA", here means a carboxylic acid which has at least one carboxyl group and at least one hydroxyl group separated by two carbon atoms.

The beta-hydroxy acid can be salicylic acid.

It is preferable to use, as additional (f) compounds, a combination of at least one alpha-hydroxy acid and at least one beta-hydroxy acid, and more preferably a combination of glycolic acid and salicylic acid, with phytic acid.

It is known that AHA activates protease in the stratum corneum to promote the degradation of corneodesmosomes, while in the dermal layer, AHA can promote the formation of collagen, which then leads to peeling of the skin. Additionally, AHA has been reported to also diminish facial pores and blackheads, most likely by targeting the activation of enzymes and protein functions related to sebum production.

BHA is known to add keratolytic activity which promotes desquamation and elimination of stratum corneum cells. It also decongests the skin by softening the sebum that clogs the pores. For this reason, it is effective in improving desquamation and especially also for acne-prone and oily skin.

The amount of (f) additional compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.01% by weight or more, and more preferably 0 0.05% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

On the other hand, the amount of (f) additional compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 4% by weight or less, and more preferably 3% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (f) additional compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 4% by weight, and more preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Hyaluronic Acid Ingredient]

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one hyaluronic acid ingredient chosen from the group consisting of hyaluronic acid, salts of hyaluronic acid, derivatives of hyaluronic acid, salts of derivatives of hyaluronic acid, and mixtures thereof. Only one type of hyaluronic acid ingredient can be used, but two or more different types of hyaluronic acid ingredients can be used in combination.

Hyaluronic acid is a predominant glucosaminoglycan found in the skin. Thus, fibroblasts mainly synthesize collagens, matrix glycoproteins other than collagens (fibronectin, laminin), proteoglycans and elastin. Keratinocytes, on the other hand, mainly synthesize sulfated glycosaminoglycans and hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid is also called hyaluronan.

Hyaluronic acid is present in the free state in the epidermis and in the dermis and is responsible for the turgidity of the skin. This polysaccharide can indeed retain a large volume of water, corresponding to up to 1000 times its weight. In this sense, hyaluronic acid plays an important role in increasing the amounts of water fixed in the tissues, but also in the mechanical properties of the skin and in the formation of wrinkles.

Hyaluronic acid can be represented by the following chemical formula.

In the context of the present invention, the term "hyaluronic acid" covers in particular the basic unit of hyaluronic acid of formula:

It is the smallest fraction of hyaluronic acid comprising a disaccharide dimer, namely D-glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine.

Hyaluronic acid derivatives can be selected from the group consisting of hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, acetylated hyaluronic acid, cationic hyaluronic acid, and mixtures thereof.

The cationic hyaluronic acid comprises at least one cationic moiety. The cationic moiety can be a trialkylammonium group such as -N+(CH ₃ ) ₃ . The cationic moiety can include at least one hydroxyl group. Examples of a cationic group include -CH ₂ -CH(OH)-CH ₂ -N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₃ .

Examples of cationic hyaluronic acid include hydroxypropyl trimonium hyaluronate.

As hyaluronic acid salts or salts of hyaluronic acid derivatives, mention may be made of alkali metal salts such as sodium salt and potassium salt, alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts, ammonium salts and mixtures thereof.

The molecular weight of the hyaluronic acid ingredient is not limited. The molecular weight of the hyaluronic acid ingredient may be 5 kDa or more, preferably 20 kDa or more, and more preferably 100 kDa or more. The molecular weight of the hyaluronic acid ingredient may be 20 MDa or less, preferably 10 MDa or less, and more preferably 2000 kDa or less. Thus, the molecular weight of the hyaluronic acid ingredient may be 5 kDa to 20 MDa, preferably 20 kDa to 10 MDa, and more preferably 100 kDa to 2000 kDa.

Unless otherwise defined in the descriptions, "molecular weight" can mean a number average molecular weight.

The hyaluronic acid ingredient may in particular be hyaluronic acid supplied by the company Hyactive under the trade name CPN (MW: 10 to 150 kDa), by the company Soliance under the trade name Cristalhyal (MW: 1 to 1.4 MDa) , by the company Bioland under the name Nutra HA (MW: 820,000 Da), by the company Bioland under the name Nutra AF (MW: 69,000 Da), or by the company Bioland under the name Oligo HA (MW: 6,100 Da ).

One can use a single hyaluronic acid ingredient having a single molecular weight, or a combination of two or more hyaluronic acid ingredients having different molecular weights.

The amount of hyaluronic acid ingredient(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.0001% by weight or more, preferably 0.0005% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.001% by weight or more. more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of hyaluronic acid ingredient(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or less. less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Thus, the amount of hyaluronic acid ingredient(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be between 0.0001% and 1% by weight, preferably between 0.0005% and 0.5% by weight, and more preferably between 0.001% and 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Polyol]

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one polyol. If two or more polyols are used, they may be the same or different.

The term "polyol" herein means an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups, and does not include a saccharide or a derivative thereof. The derivative of a saccharide includes a sugar alcohol which is obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide, as well as a saccharide or a sugar alcohol in which the hydrogen atom or atoms in one or more plural hydroxy groups thereof has or have been replaced by at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, hydroxyalkyl group, alkoxy group, acyl group or carbonyl group.

The polyols used in the present invention are liquid at ambient temperature such as 25° C. under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 105 Pa).

The polyol may be a C ₂ - ₂₄ polyol, preferably a C ₂ - ₉ polyol, comprising at least 2 hydroxy groups, and preferably 2 to 5 hydroxy groups.

The polyol can be a natural or synthetic polyol. The polyol can have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.

The polyol can be chosen from glycerins and their derivatives, and glycols and their derivatives. The polyol can be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, C ₆ -C ₂₄ polyethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,4-butanediol and 1,5-pentanediol.

The amount of polyol(s) in the composition used in the present invention may be 1 wt% or more, preferably 3 wt% or more, and more preferably 5 wt% or more, based on to the total weight of the composition.

On the other hand, the amount of polyol(s) in the composition used in the present invention may be 20 wt% or less, preferably 15 wt% or less, and more preferably 10 wt% or less. , relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of polyol(s) in the composition used in the present invention may be between 1% and 20% by weight, preferably between 3% and 15% by weight, and more preferably between 5% and 10% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Nonionic surfactant]

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one nonionic surfactant. If two or more nonionic surfactants are used, they may be the same or different.

The nonionic surfactant may have an HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) value of 8.0 to 14.0, preferably 9.0 to 13.5, and more preferably 10.0 to 13.0. . If two or more nonionic surfactants are used, the HLB value is determined by the weight average of the HLB values of all the nonionic surfactants.

The nonionic surfactant can be chosen from:

(1) surfactants chosen from fatty acid polyglyceryl esters, polyoxyalkylenated alkylglycerides and polyoxyalkylenated fatty ethers;

(2) mixed esters of fatty acid or fatty alcohol, carboxylic acid and glycerol;

(3) fatty acid esters of sugars and fatty alcohol ethers of sugars;

(4) surfactants chosen from sorbitan fatty esters and sorbitan oxyalkylenated fatty esters, and oxyalkylenated fatty esters;

(5) block copolymers of ethylene oxide (A) and propylene oxide (B),

(6) polyoxyethylenated ( _1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylene (1-30 PO) alkyl ethers (C 16 -C ₃₀ ),

(7) silicone surfactants, and

(8) mixtures thereof.

The surfactant (1) can be a fluid at a temperature lower than or equal to 45°C.

The surfactant (1) can be in particular:

- fatty acid polyglyceryl esters of at least one, preferably one, fatty acid comprising at least one C ₈ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, such as an alkyl or alkenyl group C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl or alkenyl group, preferably a C ₈ -C ₁₈ alkyl or alkenyl group, and more preferably a C ₈ -C ₁₂ alkyl or alkenyl group, and 2-12 glycerols, preferably 2-10 glycerols and more preferably 2-8 glycerols;

- polyoxyethylenated (PEGylated) alkylglycerides such as polyethyleneglycolic derivatives of a mixture of mono-, di- and tri-glycerides of caprylic and capric acids (preferably 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, more preferably 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, and even more preferably 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units), for example, PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides, PEG-7 caprylic/capric glycerides and PEG-6 glyceryl cocoate. 7;

- polyoxyethylenated fatty ethers of at least one, preferably one, fatty alcohol comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₈ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon group, such as a C ₈ -C alkyl or alkenyl group ₂₂ , preferably a C ₈ -C ₁₈ alkyl or alkenyl group, and more preferably a C ₈ -C ₁₂ alkyl or alkenyl group, and from 2 to 60 ethylene oxides, preferably from 2 to 30 ethylene oxides ethylene, and more preferably from 2 to 10 ethylene oxides; And

- their mixtures.

It is preferred that the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester have a derived polyglycerol moiety of 2 to 10 glycerols, more preferably 2 to 8 glycerols, and even more preferably 4 to 6 glycerols.

The fatty acid polyglyceryl ester can be chosen from mono, di and triesters of saturated or unsaturated acid, preferably of saturated acid, including 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 to 12 carbon atoms, such as caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and myristic acid.

The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be selected from the group consisting of PG2 caprate, PG2 dicaprate, PG2 tricaprate, PG2 caprylate, PG2 dicaprylate, PG2 tricaprylate, PG2 laurate, PG2 dilaurate, trilaurate PG2, PG2 myristate, PG2 dimyristate, PG2 trimyristate, PG2 stearate, PG2 distearate, PG2 tristearate, PG2 isostearate, PG2 diisostearate, PG2 triisostearate, PG2 oleate, PG2 dioleate, PG2 trioleate , PG3 caprate, PG3 dicaprate, PG3 tricaprate, PG3 caprylate, PG3 dicaprylate, PG3 tricaprylate, PG3 laurate, PG3 dilaurate, PG3 trilaurate, PG3 myristate, PG3 dimyristate, PG3 trimyristate, stearate PG3, PG3 distearate, PG3 tristearate, PG3 isostearate, PG3 diisostearate, PG3 triisostearate, PG3 oleate, PG3 dioleate, PG3 trioleate, PG4 caprate, PG4 dicaprate, PG4 tricaprate, PG4 caprylate , PG4 dicaprylate, PG4 tricaprylate, PG4 laurate, PG4 dilaurate, PG4 trilaurate, PG4 myristate, PG4 dimyristate, PG4 trimyristate, PG4 stearate, PG4 distearate, PG4 tristearate, PG4 isostearate, diisostearate PG4, PG4 triisostearate, PG4 oleate, PG4 dioleate, PG4 trioleate, PG5 caprate, PG5 dicaprate, PG5 tricaprate, PG5 caprylate, PG5 dicaprylate, PG5 tricaprylate, PG5 laurate, PG5 dilaurate , PG5 trilaurate, PG5 myristate, PG5 dimyristate, PG5 trimyristate, PG5 stearate, PG5 distearate, PG5 tristearate, PG5 isostearate, PG5 diisostearate, PG5 triisostearate, PG5 oleate, PG5 dioleate, trioleate PG5, PG6 caprate, PG6 dicaprate, PG6 tricaprate, PG6 caprylate, PG6 dicaprylate, PG6 tricaprylate, PG6 laurate, PG6 dilaurate, PG6 trilaurate, PG6 myristate, PG6 dimyristate, PG6 trimyristate , PG6 stearate, PG6 distearate, PG6 tristearate, PG6 isostearate, PG6 diisostearate, PG6 triisostearate, PG6 oleate, PG6 dioleate, PG6 trioleate, PG10 caprate, PG10 dicaprate, PG10 tricaprate, caprylate PG10, PG10 dicaprylate, PG10 tricaprylate, PG10 laurate, PG10 dilaurate, PG10 trilaurate, PG10 myristate, PG10 dimyristate, PG10 trimyristate, PG10 stearate, PG10 distearate, PG10 tristearate, PG10 isostearate PG10 , PG10 diisostearate, PG10 triisostearate, PG10 oleate, PG10 dioleate and PG10 trioleate.

The polyoxyalkylenated fatty ethers, preferably the polyoxyethylene fatty ethers, may comprise from 2 to 60 ethylene oxide units, preferably from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, and more preferably from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units. . The fatty chain of the ethers can be chosen in particular from lauryl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl and cetyl units, and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl. As examples of ethoxylated fatty ethers that may be mentioned, mention may be made of lauric alcohol ethers comprising 2, 3, 4 and 5 ethylene oxide units (CTFA names: Laureth-2, Laureth-3, Laureth- 4, Laureth-5, such as products sold under the names Nikkol BL-2 by Nikko Chemicals, Emalex 703 by Nihon Emulsion Co, Ltd, Nikkol BL-4 by Nikko Chemicals, EMALEX 705 by Nihon Emulsion Co, Ltd.

The (2) mixed esters of fatty acid, or of fatty alcohol, of carboxylic acid and of glycerol, which can be used as nonionic surfactant above, can be chosen in particular from the group comprising mixed esters of fatty acid or fatty alcohol with an alkyl or alkenyl chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 to 12 carbon atoms, and ⍺- hydroxyacid and/or succinic acid, with glycerol. The ⍺-hydroxy acid can be, for example, citric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid or malic acid, and mixtures thereof.

The alkyl chain of the fatty acids or alcohols from which the mixed esters that can be used in the present invention are derived can be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. They may be in particular stearate, isostearate, linoleate, oleate, behenate, arachidonate, palmitate, myristate, laurate, caprate, isostearyl, stearyl, linoleyl, oleyl, behenyl, myristyl, lauryl or capryl chains, and mixtures thereof.

As examples of mixed esters that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of the mixed ester of glycerol and of the mixture of citric acid, lactic acid, linoleic acid and oleic acid (CTFA name: Glyceryl citrate/lactate/linoleate/oleate) sold by the company Hüls under the name Imwitor 375; the mixed ester of succinic acid and isostearyl alcohol with glycerol (CTFA name: Isostearyl diglyceryl succinate) sold by the company Hüls under the name Imwitor 780 K; the mixed ester of citric acid and stearic acid with glycerol (CTFA name: Glyceryl stearate citrate) sold by the company Hüls under the name Imwitor 370; the mixed ester of lactic acid and stearic acid with glycerol (CTFA name: Glyceryl stearate lactate) sold by Danisco under the name Lactodan B30 or Rylo LA30.

The (3) fatty acid esters of sugars, which can be used as nonionic surfactant above, can be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty acids and of sucrose, maltose, glucose or fructose, and esters or ester mixtures of C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ fatty acids and methylglucose.

The C ₈ -C ₂₂ or C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ fatty acids forming the fatty unit of the esters that can be used in the present invention comprise a saturated or unsaturated linear alkyl or alkenyl chain containing, respectively, from 8 to 22 or from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty unit of the esters can be chosen in particular from stearates, behenates, arachidonates, palmitates, myristates, laurates and caprates, and mixtures thereof. Stearates are preferably used.

As examples of esters or mixtures of fatty acid esters and of sucrose, maltose, glucose or fructose, mention may be made of sucrose monostearate, sucrose distearate and sucrose tristearate and their mixtures, such as the products sold by Croda under the name Crodesta F50, F70, F110 and F160; and as examples of esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acid and methylglucose which may be mentioned, polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, sold by the company Goldschmidt under the name Tego-care 450. Mention may also be made of glucose or maltose monoesters such as methyl o-hexadecanoyl-6-D-glucoside and o-hexadecanoyl-6-D-maltoside.

The (3) fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, which can be used as nonionic surfactant above, can be solid at a temperature less than or equal to 45° C. and can be chosen in particular from the group comprising ethers or mixtures of ethers C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols and glucose, maltose, sucrose or fructose, ethers or mixtures of ethers of a C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol and methylglucose. These are in particular alkylpolyglucosides.

The C ₈ -C ₂₂ or C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols forming the fatty unit of the ethers which can be used in the present invention comprise a linear, saturated or unsaturated alkyl or alkenyl chain, containing respectively from 8 to 22 or from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty unit of the ethers can be chosen in particular from decyl, cetyl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl, palmityl, myristyl, lauryl, capryl, hexadecanoyl units, and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl.

As examples of fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, mention may be made of alkylpolyglucosides such as decylglucoside and laurylglucoside, marketed for example by the company Henkel under the respective names of Plantaren 2000 and Plantaren 1200, cetostearyl glucoside optionally in a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, sold for example under the name Montanov 68 by the company SEPPIC, under the name Tego-care CG90 by the company Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302 by the company Henkel, as well as the arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside, sold under the name Montanov 202 by the company SEPPIC.

The surfactant used is more particularly sucrose monostearate, sucrose distearate or sucrose tristearate and mixtures thereof, polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate and alkylpolyglucosides.

The (4) fatty esters of sorbitan and the oxyalkylenated fatty esters of sorbitan which can be used as nonionic surfactant above can be chosen from the group comprising C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acid esters of sorbitan and esters of C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ oxyethylenated fatty acids of sorbitan. They can be formed from at least one fatty acid comprising at least one saturated linear alkyl chain containing, respectively, from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and sorbitol or ethoxylated sorbitol. The oxyethylenated esters can generally comprise from 1 to 100 ethylene glycol units and preferably from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide (EO) units.

These esters can be chosen in particular from stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates, and mixtures thereof. Stearates and palmitates are preferably used.

As an example of the above nonionic surfactant that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate), sold by the company ICI under the name Span 60, sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate), sold by the company ICI under the name Span 40, and sorbitan tristearate 20 EO (CTFA name: polysorbate 65), sold by the company ICI under the name Tween 65.

The (4) oxyalkylenated fatty esters, preferably ethoxylated, usable as nonionic surfactant above, can be esters formed from 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units, preferably from 2 to 60 ethylene oxide units, and more preferentially from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, and from at least one fatty acid chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, and more preferentially from 8 to 12 carbon atoms carbon. The fatty chain of the esters can be chosen in particular from stearate, behenate, arachidate and palmitate units, and mixtures thereof. As examples of ethoxylated fatty esters, mention may be made of the stearic acid ester comprising 40 ethylene oxide units, such as the product marketed under the name Myrj 52 (CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate) by the company ICI, as well as the behenic acid ester comprising 8 ethylene oxide units (CTFA name: PEG-8 behenate), such as the product marketed under the name Compritol HD5 ATO by the company Gattefosse.

The block copolymers (5) of ethylene oxide (A) and of propylene oxide (B), which can be used as nonionic surfactant above, can be chosen in particular from the block copolymers of formula (I):

HO(C ₂ H ₄ O) _x (C ₃ H ₆ O) _y (C ₂ H ₄ O) _z H (I)

in which x, y and z are integers such that x+z is between 2 and 100 and y is between 14 and 60, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly among the block copolymers of formula (I) having a value HLB between 8.0 and 14.0.

The C ₁₆ -C ₃₀ (6) polyoxyethylene (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylene (1-30 PO) alkyl ethers, which can be used as the nonionic surfactant above, can be selected from the group consisting of in :

PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-30; Polyoxyethlene (30) Polyoxypropylene (6) Tetradecyl Ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PEN-4630 from Nikko Chemicals Co,

PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-12; Polyoxyethylene (12) Polyoxypropylene (6) Tetradecyl Ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PEN-4612 from Nikko Chemicals Co,

PPG-13 Decyltetradeceth-24; Polyoxyethylene (24) Polyoxypropylene (13) Decyltetradecyl Ether such as those sold as UNILUBE 50MT-2200B from NOF Corporation,

PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-20; Polyoxyethylene (20) Polyoxypropylene (6) Decyltetradecyl Ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PEN-4620 from Nikko Chemicals Co,

PPG-4 Ceteth-1; polyoxyethylene (1) polyoxypropylene (4) cetyl ether such as those sold by Nikkol PBC-31 from Nikko Chemicals Co,

PPG-8 Ceteth-1; polyoxyethylene (1) polyoxypropylene (8) cetyl ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PBC-41 from Nikko Chemicals Co,

PPG-4 Ceteth-10; polyoxyethylene (10) polyoxypropylene (4) cetyl ether such as those sold by Nikkol PBC-33 from Nikko Chemicals Co,

PPG-4 Ceteth-20; polyoxyethylene (20) polyoxypropylene (4) cetyl ether such as those sold by Nikkol PBC-34 from Nikko Chemicals Co,

PPG-5 Ceteth-20; polyoxyethylene (20) polyoxypropylene (5) cetyl ether such as those sold under the name Procetyl AWS from Croda Inc,

PPG-8 Ceteth-20; polyoxyethylene (20) polyoxypropylene (8) cetyl ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PBC-44 by Nikko Chemicals Co. and

PPG-23 Steareth-34; Polyoxyethylene Polyoxypropylene Stearyl Ether (34 EO) (23 PO) such as those sold as Unisafe 34S-23 from Pola Chemical Industries. They can offer a stable composition for a long time, even if the temperature of the composition is increased and decreased in a relatively short period of time.

It may be more preferred that the polyoxyethylene (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylene (1-30 PO) C ₁₆ -C ₃₀ alkyl ethers are C ₁₆ -C ₂₄ (15-40 EO) alkyl ethers and polyoxypropylene (5-30 PO), which could be selected from the group consisting of PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-30, PPG-13 Decyltetradeceth-24, PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-20, PPG-5 Ceteth-20, PPG-8 Ceteth -20, and PPG-23 Steareth-34.

It may be even more preferred that the polyoxyethylene (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylene (1-30 PO) C16-C30 alkyl ethers be polyoxypropylene (15-40 EO) C16-C24 alkyl ethers ( 5-30 PO), which may be selected from the group consisting of PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-30, PPG-13 Decyltetradeceth-24, PPG-5 Ceteth-20 and PPG-8 Ceteth-20.

As (7) silicone surfactants, which can be used as the above nonionic surfactant, there can be mentioned those disclosed in US-A-5364633 and US-A-5411744.

The (7) silicone surfactant as nonionic surfactant above can preferably be a compound of formula (I):

in which :

R ₁ , R ₂ and R ₃ , independently of each other, represent a C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl radical or a radical -(CH ₂ ) _x -(OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _y -(OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ ) _z -OR ₄ , at least one R ₁ , R ₂ or R ₃ radical not being an alkyl radical; R ₄ being a hydrogen, an alkyl radical or an acyl radical;

A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;

B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; provided that A and B are not simultaneously equal to zero;

x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6;

y is an integer between 1 and 30;

z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, in the compound of formula (I), the alkyl radical is a methyl radical, x is an integer ranging from 2 to 6 and y is an integer ranging from 4 to 30.

As examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I), mention may be made of the compounds of formula (II):

where A is an integer ranging from 20 to 105, B is an integer ranging from 2 to 10 and y is an integer ranging from 10 to 20.

As examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I), mention may also be made of the compounds of formula (III):

H-(OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _y -(CH ₂ ) ₃ -[(CH ₃ ) ₂ SiO] _{A '} -(CH ₂ ) ₃ -(OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _y -OH (III)

where A' and y are integers ranging from 10 to 20.

The compounds of the present invention which can be used are those sold by the Dow Corning company under the names DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695 and Q4-3667. Compounds DC 5329, DC 7439-146 and DC 2-5695 are compounds of formula (II) in which, respectively, A is 22, B is 2 and y is 12; A is 103, B is 10 and y is 12; A is 27, B is 3 and y is 12.

Compound Q4-3667 is a compound of formula (III) wherein A is 15 and y is 13.

The amount of nonionic surfactant(s) in the composition used in the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

On the other hand, the amount of nonionic surfactant(s) in the composition used in the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably of 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of nonionic surfactant(s) in the composition used in the present invention may be between 0.01% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.05% and 3% by weight, and in such a way more preferably between 0.1% and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Other ingredients]

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one monoalcohol which is in the form of a liquid at room temperature (25° C.), such as a linear or branched monoalcohol comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, for example ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, pentanol and hexanol.

The amount of monoalcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more. , relative to the total weight of the composition.

On the other hand, the amount of monoalcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than or equal to 15% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight, and more preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Thus, the amount of monoalcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be between 0.01% and 15% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 10% by weight, and more preferably between 1 % and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention may contain at least one pH correction agent.

As pH correction agent, it is possible to use at least one acidifying agent and/or at least one basifying agent (alkaline agent).

Acidifying agents can be, for example, inorganic or organic acids, for example hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, sulfonic acid, and carboxylic acids such as lactic acid.

The acidifying agent may be present in an amount ranging from less than 5% by weight, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition .

The basifying agent or the alkaline agent can be, for example, any inorganic or organic basic agent which is commonly used in cosmetic products such as ammonia; alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and tri-ethanolamine, isopropanolamine; metal hydroxide such as alkali metal hydroxide (eg, sodium and potassium hydroxides); urea, guanidine and their derivatives; and diamines such as those described in the structure below:

in which

R denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a hydroxyl or a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical, and R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a radical C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl, which can be exemplified by 1,3-propanediamine and its derivatives. An alkali metal hydroxide such as potassium hydroxide is preferable.

The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be less than 7, preferably 6 or less, and more preferably 5.5 or less. The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be greater than or equal to 3.5, preferably greater than or equal to 4.0, and more preferably greater than or equal to 4.5. Thus, the pH of the composition according to the present invention can be between 3.5 and less than 7, preferably between 4.0 and 6, and more preferably between 4.5 and 5.5.

The composition according to the present invention may also include various adjuvants conventionally used in cosmetic compositions, such as thickeners, anionic, nonionic, cationic and amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers, anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants, antioxidants, coloring agents, chelating agents, sequestering agents, perfumes, dispersing agents, conditioning agents, film-forming agents, preservatives, co-preservatives and their mixtures, with the exception of the ingredients explained above.

[Preparation]

The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and the optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.

The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

[Form]

The composition according to the present invention is transparent.

Transparency can be measured by measuring turbidity (for example, turbidity can be measured with a 2100Q (marketed by Hach Company) having a round cell (25mm in diameter and 60mm in height) and a tungsten filament lamp that can emit visible light (between 400 and 800 nm, preferably 400 to 500 nm. The measurement can be carried out on the undiluted composition. The blank can be determined with distilled water.

The composition according to the present invention may have a turbidity less than or equal to 50 NTU, preferably less than or equal to 40 NTU, more preferably less than or equal to 30 NTU, more preferably less than or equal to 20 NTU, more preferably less than or equal to 10 NTU, and even more preferably less than or equal to 5 NTU.

The form of the composition according to the present invention is not limited. Thus, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a solution, a gel, or an emulsion.

However, it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is not in the form of an emulsion.

Nevertheless, if the composition according to the present invention is in the form of an emulsion, the composition according to the present invention comprises a continuous phase and dispersed phases. The dispersed phases are dispersed in the continuous phase. Thus, the dispersed phase can be in the form of a particle. The continuous phase may comprise (d) water. The dispersed phase may include oil if present.

The composition according to the present invention can be in the form of a nano- or micro-emulsion, if the composition comprises oil.

"Micro-emulsion" can be defined in two ways, namely, in a broader sense and in a stricter sense. That is, there is a case ("microemulsion in the strict sense") in which microemulsion refers to a thermodynamically stable isotropic single liquid phase containing a ternary system having three ingredients of an oil component, an aqueous component and a surfactant, and another case ("micro-emulsion in the broad sense") in which, among the typically thermodynamically unstable emulsion systems, the micro-emulsion further includes emulsions of this type exhibiting transparent or translucent aspects due to the reduced size of their particles (Satoshi Tomomasa, et al., Oil Chemistry, Vol. 37, No. 11 (1988), pp. 48-53). The term "micro-emulsion" as used herein refers to a "micro-emulsion in the strict sense", i.e. a single thermodynamically stable isotropic liquid phase.

Microemulsion refers to either of the following states: an O/W (oil in water) type microemulsion in which the oil is solubilized by micelles, a W/O type microemulsion (water in oil) in which the water is solubilized by reverse micelles, or a bicontinuous microemulsion in which the number of associations of surfactant molecules is made infinite so that the aqueous phase and the oily phase both have a continuous structure.

The microemulsion may have a dispersed phase with a particle size of 100 nm or less, preferably 80 nm or less, and more preferably 60 nm or less, measured by laser particle sizing.

“Nano-emulsion” here designates an emulsion characterized by a dispersed phase of size less than 350 nm, the dispersed phase being stabilized by a crown of surfactant(s), if present, which can optionally form a phase of liquid crystals of lamellar type, at the dispersed phase/continuous phase interface. In the absence of specific opacifiers, the transparency of the nano-emulsion comes from the small size of the dispersed phase, this small size being obtained thanks to the use of mechanical energy and in particular a high-pressure homogenizer.

Nano-emulsions are distinguished from micro-emulsions by their structure. More specifically, micro-emulsions are thermodynamically stable dispersions formed, for example, of micelles formed by one or more surfactants, if present, and swollen with oil. Additionally, microemulsions do not require substantial mechanical energy to prepare.

The nano-emulsion can have a dispersed phase whose particle size is less than or equal to 300 nm, preferably less than or equal to 200 nm, and more preferably less than or equal to 100 nm, measured by laser granulometry.

The composition according to the present invention may be in the form of an O/W nano- or micro-emulsion, or a W/O nano- or micro-emulsion. It is preferable for the composition according to the present invention to be in the form of an O/W nano- or micro-emulsion.

The O/W architecture or structure, which consists of oily phases dispersed in an aqueous phase, has an external aqueous phase, and therefore if the composition according to the present invention has the O/W architecture or structure, it can provide a pleasant sensation during use due to the immediate sensation of freshness that the aqueous phase can provide.

The particle size of the oil, if present, may be 100 nm or less, preferably 75 nm or less, and more preferably 50 nm or less. Particle size can be measured by a dynamic light scattering method. Particle size measurement can be performed, for example, by the ELSZ-2000 series particle size analyzer, marketed by Otsuka Electronics Co., Ltd.

The particle size may be a volume average particle diameter or a number average particle diameter, preferably a volume average particle diameter.

[Process and Use]

It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be a cosmetic composition, preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin, and more preferably a composition for exfoliating the skin. By exfoliation of the skin is meant here the exfoliation of the superficial surface of the skin, in particular of the stratum corneum of the skin.

The skin here encompasses the skin of the face, the skin of the neck and the scalp. The composition according to the present invention can also be used for the mucous membranes such as the lips, and the like.

The composition according to the present invention can be used for a non-therapeutic process, such as a cosmetic process, to treat a keratinous substance, preferably to treat the skin, and more preferably to erase the skin, by being applied to the keratinous substance.

Thus, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating a keratinous substance, preferably for treating the skin, and more preferably for exfoliating the skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention on the keratinous substance in particular the skin.

The present invention may also relate to a use of the composition according to the present invention as a cosmetic product or in a cosmetic product such as skin care products. In other words, the composition according to the present invention can be used, as it is, as a cosmetic product. Alternatively, the composition according to the present invention can be used as an element of a cosmetic product. For example, the composition according to the present invention can be added or combined with any other element to form a cosmetic product.

The care product can be in the form of a solution, a gel, a lotion, and the like.

According to the present invention, the composition includes at least a first compound chosen from polyhydroxy acids and their salts, the composition according to the present invention can be used for exfoliating the skin while providing less stickiness and a reduction in the discomfort of the skin such as a reduction in skin irritation.

Another aspect of the present invention may relate to a use of a combination of:

(b) at least one second compound chosen from vitamin B3 and its derivatives; And

(c) at least one alkylene oxide derivative represented by the following chemical formula (I):

Z-{O(AO) _l (EO) _m -(BO) _n H} _a (I)

in which

Z denotes a residue obtained by removing hydroxyl groups from a compound having 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups;

AO denotes an oxyalkylene group having 3 to 4 carbon atoms;

EO denotes an oxyethylene group;

BO denotes an oxyalkylene group having 4 carbon atoms;

a represents 3 to 9;

l, m and n denote the average number of moles of addition of AO, EO and BO, respectively, and 1 ≤ l ≤ 50, 1 ≤ m ≤ 50 and 0.5 ≤ n ≤ 5;

the AO to EO weight ratio (AO/EO) is between 1/5 and 5/1; And

AO and EO may have been added randomly or in sequences;

in a composition comprising:

(a) at least one first compound chosen from polyhydroxy acids and their salts; And

(d) water

in which

the amount of the first compound(s) in the composition is 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more , relative to the total weight of the composition,

to reduce stickiness and skin discomfort such as skin irritation caused by the composition when applied to the skin.

The above explanations regarding the ingredients (a) to (d), as well as the optional ingredients, for the composition according to the present invention can be applied to those for the above use according to the present invention. The explanations concerning the preparation and the forms of the composition according to the present invention can also apply to those of the composition described in the above use according to the present invention.

EXAMPLES

The present invention will be described in more detail using examples which should not, however, be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention.

[Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-3]

The following compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-3, shown in Table 1, were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 1. The numerical values of the amounts of components shown in Table 1 are all based on "% by weight" of raw materials.

Ingredients Example 1 Ex. 1 comp. Ex. 2 comp. Ex. 3 comp. Gluconolactone 10 10 10 10 Niacinamide 5 - 5 - PEG/PPG/Polybutyene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerine 4 4 - - Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Methyl Gluceth-20 5 5 5 5 Ethanol 3 3 3 3 Butylene glycol 5 5 5 5 Pentylene glycol 3 3 3 3 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Sodium hyaluronate 0.001 0.001 0.001 0.001 Chlorphenesin 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Potassium hydroxide qs pH 5 qs pH 5 qs pH 5 qs pH 5 Salicylic acid 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 phytic acid 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Glycolic acid 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Fagus Sylvatica Bud Extract 2 2 2 2 PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-30 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Scent 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Vitis Vinifera Grapeseed Oil 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 Transparency Very good Very good Very good Very good Non-sticky character Good Very good Very bad Very bad Skin irritation Good Bad N / A N / A

NA: Not available (due to stickiness)

[Ratings]

(Transparency)

The transparency of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-3 was also determined by visual observation according to the following criteria.

Very good: Clear

Good: Slightly translucent

Bad: Translucent

Very bad: opaque

The results are shown in Table 1.

(Non-sticky character)

The stickiness of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-3 was measured using a texture analyzer (TA. XT plus by Eco Instruments Co., Ltd.).

10 mg of each of the compositions according to example 1 and comparative examples 1-3 were applied to a bioskin (square shape: 2cm×2cm) available from Beaulax. A texture analyzer metal-headed probe located above the bioskin was lowered to touch the bioskin with a determined force. The metal head was then lifted while measuring the negative force data. Negative force data indicates the force required to lift the metal head probe, and relates to smoothness. Peak negative force data was recorded. The lower the negative strength data, the higher the stickiness. This operation was repeated 100 times for each composition, and the value of the negative force peak was averaged. The absolute values of the averaged peak negative force for the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-3 are classified according to the following criteria.

Very good: ≤ 100

Good: 100 < and ≤ 110

Bad: 110 < and ≤ 120

Very bad: 120 <

The results are shown in Table 1.

(Skin irritation)

An in vitro evaluation using EpiSkin™ was performed.

EpiSkin™ tissues (20ER34, 20ER35) and maintenance medium were obtained from Shanghai EPISKIN Biotechnology Co, Ltd with required quality control reports. They were received and subjected to recovery in an incubator at 37°C and 5% CO ₂ for at least 24 hours before carrying out the experiments.

A preliminary test on the MTT interaction was carried out for all the compositions according to example 1 and comparative examples 1-3. Each of the compositions was incubated with a 3.3 mg/mL solution of MTT at 37°C for at least 15 minutes and any color changes were recorded for further testing.

For cytokine analysis, topical application of 35 μL of each composition for 48 hours of treatment was performed on two replicate skin tissues in an experiment for individual concentrations. At the end of the treatment, basal media were collected and sent for analysis using Luminex systems. EpiSkinTM tissues were collected for viability. Final data was corrected for viability and mean levels were expressed as pg/mL for individual cytokines. At least two change folds will be considered for ranking analysis.

The scoring was carried out according to the following two criteria depending on the level of cytokine.

Good: IL-8 < 2 and IL-1α < 2.8

Bad: IL-8 > 2 or IL-1α > 2.8

Good means no risk of skin irritation

Bad means risk of skin irritation

The results are shown in Table 1.

[Example 2 and Comparative Examples 4-6]

The following compositions according to Example 2 and Comparative Examples 4-6, shown in Table 1, were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 2. The numerical values of the amounts of components shown in Table 2 are all based on "% by weight" of raw materials.

Ingredients Example 2 Ex. 4 comp. Ex. 5 comp. Ex. 6 comp. Gluconolactone 5 5 5 5 Niacinamide 5 - 5 - PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerine 4 4 - - Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Methyl Gluceth-20 5 5 5 5 Ethanol 3 3 3 3 Butylene glycol 5 5 5 5 Pentylene glycol 3 3 3 3 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Sodium hyaluronate 0.001 0.001 0.001 0.001 Chlorphenesin 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Potassium hydroxide qs pH 5 qs pH 5 qs pH 5 qs pH 5 Salicylic acid 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 phytic acid 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Glycolic acid 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Fagus Sylvatica Bud Extract 2 2 2 2 PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-30 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Scent 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Vitis Vinifera Grapeseed Oil 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 Transparency Very good Very good Very good Very good Non-sticky character Very good Good Very bad Very bad Skin irritation Good Bad N / A N / A

NA: Not available (due to stickiness)

[Ratings]

(Transparency)

The transparency of the compositions according to Example 2 and Comparative Examples 4-6 was also determined by visual observation according to the following criteria.

Very good: Clear

Good: Slightly translucent

Bad: Translucent

Very bad: opaque

The results are shown in Table 2.

(Non-sticky character)

The stickiness of the compositions according to Example 2 and Comparative Examples 4-6 was measured using a texture analyzer (TA. XT plus by Eco Instruments Co., Ltd.).

10 mg of each of the compositions according to example 2 and comparative examples 4-6 were applied to a bioskin (square shape: 2cm×2cm) available from Beaulax. A texture analyzer metal-headed probe located above the bioskin was lowered to touch the bioskin with a determined force. The metal head was then lifted while measuring the negative force data. Negative force data indicates the force required to lift the metal head probe, and relates to smoothness. Peak negative force data was recorded. The lower the negative strength data, the higher the stickiness. This operation was repeated 100 times for each composition, and the value of the negative force peak was averaged. The absolute values of the averaged peak negative force for the compositions according to Example 2 and Comparative Examples 4-6 are classified according to the following criteria.

Very good: ≤ 100

Good: 100 < and ≤ 110

Bad: 110 < and ≤ 120

Very bad: 120 <

The results are shown in Table 2.

(Skin irritation)

An in vitro evaluation using EpiSkin™ was performed.

EpiSkin™ tissues (20ER34, 20ER35) and maintenance medium were obtained from Shanghai EPISKIN Biotechnology Co, Ltd with required quality control reports. They were received and subjected to recovery in an incubator at 37°C and 5% CO ₂ for at least 24 hours before carrying out the experiments.

A preliminary test on the MTT interaction was carried out for all the compositions according to example 2 and comparative examples 4-6. Each of the compositions was incubated with a 3.3 mg/mL solution of MTT at 37°C for at least 15 minutes and any color changes were recorded for further testing.

For cytokine analysis, topical application of 35 μL of each composition for 48 hours of treatment was performed on two replicate skin tissues in an experiment for individual concentrations. At the end of the treatment, basal media were collected and sent for analysis using Luminex systems. EpiSkinTM tissues were collected for viability. Final data was corrected for viability and mean levels were expressed as pg/mL for individual cytokines. At least two change folds will be considered for ranking analysis.

The scoring was carried out according to the following two criteria depending on the level of cytokine.

Good: IL-8 < 2 and IL-1α < 2.8

Bad: IL-8 > 2 or IL-1α > 2.8

Good means no risk of skin irritation

Poor means risk of skin irritation

The results are shown in Table 2.

Claims (10)

Transparent composition, comprising:
(a) at least one first compound chosen from polyhydroxy acids and their salts;
(b) at least one second compound chosen from vitamin B3 and its derivatives;
(c) at least one alkylene oxide derivative represented by the following chemical formula (I):
Z-{O(AO) _l (EO) _m -(BO) _n H} _a (I)
in which
Z denotes a residue obtained by removing hydroxyl groups from a compound having 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups;
AO denotes an oxyalkylene group having 3 to 4 carbon atoms;
EO denotes an oxyethylene group;
BO denotes an oxyalkylene group having 4 carbon atoms;
a represents 3 to 9;
l, m and n denote the average number of moles of addition of AO, EO and BO, respectively, and 1 ≤ l ≤ 50, 1 ≤ m ≤ 50 and 0.5 ≤ n ≤ 5;
the AO to EO weight ratio (AO/EO) is between 1/5 and 5/1; And
AO and EO may have been added randomly or in sequences; And
(d) water,
in which
the amount of the first compound(s) in the composition is 1 wt% or more, preferably 3 wt% or more, and more preferably 5 wt% or more , relative to the total weight of the composition. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the (a) first compound is in the form of a lactone. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the (a) first compound is gluconolactone. A composition according to any of claims 1 to 3, wherein the (b) second compound is niacinamide. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, in which the (c) alkylene oxide derivative is represented by the following chemical formula (II):
Gly-{O(PO) _s (EO) _t -(BO) _u H} ₃ (II)
in which
Gly denotes a residue obtained by removal of hydroxyl groups from glycerine;
PO denotes an oxypropylene group;
EO denotes an oxyethylene group;
s and t represent the average number of moles of addition of PO and EO, respectively, and have a value ranging from 1 to 50;
the weight ratio PO to EO (PO/EO) is between 1/5 and 5/1;
BO denotes an oxyalkylene group having 4 carbon atoms; And
u denotes the average number of moles of addition of BO, and is in the range of 0.5 to 5. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the (c) alkylene oxide derivative is PEG/PPG/Polybutylene glycol-8/5/3 glycerin. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the composition further comprises (f) at least one additional compound selected from alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids, phytic acid and mixtures thereof, which is different of (a) first compound. A composition according to any of claims 1 to 7, wherein the composition is a cosmetic composition, preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin, and more preferably a skin scrub composition. Cosmetic process for treating a keratinous substance, preferably for treating the skin, and more preferably for exfoliating the skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8 to the keratinous substance. Using a combination of
(b) at least one second compound chosen from vitamin B3 and its derivatives; And
(c) at least one alkylene oxide derivative represented by the following chemical formula (I):
Z-{O(AO) _l (EO) _m -(BO) _n H} _a (I)
in which
Z denotes a residue obtained by removing hydroxyl groups from a compound having 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups;
AO denotes an oxyalkylene group having 3 to 4 carbon atoms;
EO denotes an oxyethylene group;
BO denotes an oxyalkylene group having 4 carbon atoms;
a represents 3 to 9;
l, m and n denote the average number of moles of addition of AO, EO and BO, respectively, and 1 ≤ l ≤ 50, 1 ≤ m ≤ 50 and 0.5 ≤ n ≤ 5;
the AO to EO weight ratio (AO/EO) is between 1/5 and 5/1; And
AO and EO may have been added randomly or in sequences;
in a composition comprising:
(a) at least one first compound chosen from polyhydroxy acids and their salts; And
(d) water
in which
the amount of the first compound(s) in the composition is 1 wt% or more, preferably 3 wt% or more, and more preferably 5 wt% or more , relative to the total weight of the composition,
to reduce stickiness and skin discomfort caused by the composition when applied to the skin.