FR3112950A1 - COMPOSITION FOR TAKING CARE OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS AND METHOD FOR USING IT - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition for taking care of keratinous materials and method for using it The present invention relates to a composition for caring for keratinous materials, comprising two visually distinguishable phases, and comprising: a) at least one aqueous phase, comprising low molecular weight (LMW) hyaluronic acid salts; and (b) at least one oil phase, comprising a surfactant and an oil for which the required HLB is not more than 13, wherein the surfactant is oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters. The interface of the two phases is substantially clear and can become clear again within 8 hours after shaking and mixing the product. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

COMPOSITION FOR TAKING CARE OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS AND METHOD FOR USING IT

The present invention relates to the cosmetic field of skin care, more specifically, it relates to compositions for taking care of keratinous materials such as the skin, in particular the face. The present invention also relates to a process for caring for keratinous materials such as the skin, in particular the face.

Context

Biphasic compositions have already been described, for example in documents EP 0 370 856 and EP 0 603 080, in particular for removing makeup from the eyes.

Document EP 0 603 080 describes the use of alkyldimethylbenzylammonium and in particular of benzakonium chloride as phase separation agent, with a view to obtaining rapid phase separation.

Document EP 1 514 534 also describes a biphasic composition containing sodium bicarbonate as phase separation agent.

Document WO 2014/207259A2 discloses a biphasic composition for topical application comprising magnesium acetate.

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is generally used at very low levels in the range of 0.01 to 0.5% by weight due to its high price and the rather sticky and slippery feeling it gives to compositions. container. To obtain a composition with effective moisturizing properties, a formulation of hyaluronic acid has been developed at high levels, in the presence of a specific surfactant.

However, either the product comprising HMW hyaluronic acid or the product comprising both HMW and LMW hyaluronic acids has high risks of noodles after application to the skin. There is therefore a need for a composition comprising and/or a cosmetically sufficient amount of hyaluronic acid or of a derivative thereof minimizing the risk of formation of noodles.

Document FR-A-2 645 740 describes a composition containing an oily phase, an aqueous phase and a solid phase to be mixed immediately before use, the solid phase containing one or more active agents (in particular vitamin A) and an emulsifier, and which is placed in the cap of a bottle containing the two liquid phases. This packaging allows a long storage time for the composition before mixing the three phases by shaking. After mixing, however, the composition is stable for a few hours, however, it is not easy to keep the two phases substantially clear after shaking and mixing the two phases.

In a composition comprising two phases, if the high molecular weight polymer such as sodium hyaluronate is included, it will temporarily stay on the interface of oil droplets, which can stabilize the oil droplets and make the troubled interface.

Biphasic compositions appeal to consumers by virtue of their pearlescent appearance. Consequently, it is important to improve the clarity of the interface of the two phases.

An object of the present invention is to provide a composition, in particular for taking care of keratinous materials, comprising two phases, in particular the interface of the two phases is substantially clear.

The present inventors have completed the present invention through intensive research.

According to one aspect of the invention, there is provided a composition for taking care of keratinous materials, comprising two phases which can be visually distinguished, and comprising:

(a) at least one aqueous phase, comprising low molecular weight (LMW) hyaluronic acid salts;

(b) at least one oil phase, comprising a surfactant and an oil for which the required HLB is not more than 13, wherein the surfactant is oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters.

According to certain preferable embodiments of the invention, the hyaluronic acid salts are low molecular weight (LMW). The molecular weight (MW) of the hyaluronic acid salts is preferably less than or equal to 60,000 Daltons, more preferably 15,000 Daltons to 50,000 Daltons, more preferably 20,000 Daltons to 50,000 Daltons.

According to certain preferable embodiments of the invention, the salt of hyaluronic acid is sodium hyaluronate.

According to some preferable embodiments of the invention, the content by weight of the sodium hyaluronate is 0.0001 wt% to 5 wt%, preferably 0.001 wt% to 1 wt%, in terms of the weight composition total.

According to some preferable embodiments of the invention, the oil is isononyl isononanoate, squalene and caprylic/capric triglyceride.

According to some preferable embodiments of the invention, the content by weight of the oil is 0.0001 wt% to 30 wt%, preferably 0.001 wt% to 15 wt%, more preferably from 0.001% by weight to 5% by weight, in terms of the total weight of the composition.

According to certain preferable embodiments of the invention, the surfactant is a nonionic surfactant.

According to certain preferable embodiments of the invention, the surfactant is chosen from one or more of the group of alkyl (C ₁ to C ₂₀ ) phenols, condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide with alcohols bold ; polyethoxylated fatty amides, ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan, fatty acid esters of sucrose, polyoxyalkylenated and preferably polyoxyethylene fatty acid esters containing from 2 to 150 mol of surfactants of the polysorbate type of ethylene oxide, surfactant of the alkyl(poly)glycoside type.

According to certain preferable embodiments of the invention, the surfactant is PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, or mixtures thereof.

According to some preferable embodiments of the invention, the content by weight of the surfactant is 0.001 wt% to 0.5 wt%, preferably 0.001 wt% to 0.05 wt%, in terms of the weight composition total.

According to some preferable embodiments of the invention, the required HLB of the oil is 5 to 13.

According to certain preferable embodiments of the invention, the composition further comprises a water-miscible polyol, in particular the polyol comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms.

Another subject of the invention is a non-therapeutic process for taking care of a keratinous material, preferably the skin and/or the lips, comprising the step of applying to the keratinous material the composition as described below. above.

"Biphasic" in the present invention means that at least two visually distinguishable phases are included in the compositions. The at least two phases are separated at least by a single interface. In particular, the interface of the at least two phases, in particular an aqueous phase and an oily phase, is substantially clear, and can become clear again as before within 8 hours after the product is shaken.

The term "substantially clear" is understood to mean a composition having good stability after 14 days of shake stability testing. Specifically, the interface will become noticeably clear again just as before shaking, and the clear interface can be stable until the next shaking.

As used herein, the term "surfactant-free" means that the aqueous phase in the composition of the present invention does not comprise surfactant or comprises surfactant in an amount of not more than 1% by weight of surfactant based on the total composition. Preferably, the composition may contain no more than 0.5% by weight, more preferably no more than 0.2% by weight, of surfactant based on the total weight of the composition.

More preferably, the aqueous phase in the composition of the present invention contains no surfactant.

Detailed description of the invention

The present invention will be described in more detail below together with the specific embodiments. It will be appreciated that other embodiments may be practiced without departing from the scope or spirit of the invention. Accordingly, the following detailed description is non-limiting. By "the aqueous phase and the oil phase are separated", it is meant that the aqueous phase and the oil phase are visible one above the other before shaking.

The biphasic composition can be used to care for keratinous materials such as the skin, in particular the face, after shaking to form an unstable and uniform oil-in-water emulsion.

By "skin" we mean the skin of the whole body, including the face, lips and eyes.

As used herein, unless otherwise specified, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions “between … and …” and “from … to …”.

As used herein, the term "including" shall be construed to encompass all specifically mentioned features as well as those optional, additional, unspecified.

As used herein, use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e., "consisting of").

Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meanings as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs. Where the definition of a term in this specification conflicts with the meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs, the definition described herein shall control.

As used herein, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and may replace it.

The term "and/or" used herein refers to any or all of the items mentioned.

All numbers indicating quantities, and physicochemical properties of a feature used in the specification and claims, unless otherwise indicated, are understood to be modified in all cases by the term "about". Accordingly, the numerical parameters specified in the above description and appended claims are approximations unless otherwise indicated, and those skilled in the art may use the teachings disclosed herein. The bounded range of values includes all numbers in the range and any range within the range, for example, 1 to 5 includes 1, 1.1, 1.3, 1.5, 2, 2.75 , 3, 3.80, 4, and 5, or similar.

Aqueous phase

The aqueous phase comprises one or more salts of hyaluronic acid. The hyaluronic acid salts can be selected from one or more of: alkaline salts such as sodium, potassium and other salts, for example zinc salts, silver salts, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises sodium hyaluronate.

Preferably, the aqueous phase in the composition is devoid of surfactant.

The aqueous phase may include water and hydrophilic adjuvants (solvents, active ingredients and additives). The water preferably constitutes at least 30% by weight and more preferably at least 40% by weight in terms of the total weight of the composition.

In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises water in a content ranging from 40% by weight to 99% by weight in terms of the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 45% by weight to 95% by weight, and preferably ranging from 50% by weight to 90% by weight in terms of the total weight of the composition.

The water used can be sterile demineralised water and/or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or linden flower water, and/or natural spring water or mineral water, for example: water from Vittel, water from the Vichy basin, water from Uriage, water from La Roche Posay, water from La Bourboule, water from Enghien-les-Bains, water from Saint Gervais-les-Bains, water from Néris -les-Bains, water from Allevard-les-Bains, water from Digne, water from Maizières, water from Neyrac-les-Bains, water from Lons-le-Saunier, water from Eaux Bonnes, water from Rochefort, water from Saint Christau, Fumades water, Tercis-les-Bains water and Avène water. The aqueous phase may also include reconstituted spring water, i.e. water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., restoring the characteristics of spring water.

The composition may also comprise a polyol which is miscible with water at ambient temperature (25° C.), chosen in particular from polyols having in particular from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (in particular comprising from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono, di or tripropylene glycol alkyl (C ₁ to C ₄ ) ethers, mono, di or triethylene glycol alkyl (C ₁ to C ₄ ) ethers; and their mixtures.

In a particular embodiment of the invention, the polyol miscible with water at room temperature is present in a content ranging from 1% by weight to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 3% by weight to 20% by weight.

In addition, the composition according to the invention may comprise a monoalcohol comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol, in particular in a content ranging from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight in terms of the total weight of the composition in the invention, and preferably in a content ranging from 1% by weight to 15% by weight.

Hyaluronic acid salts

Hyaluronic acid is a non-sulfated linear glycosaminoglycan composed of repeating units of D-glucuronic acid and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine. Hyaluronic acid salt means hyaluronic acid or salt of hyaluronic acid.

A low molecular weight (LMW) salt of hyaluronic acid is used in the present invention. Within the meaning of the present invention, the expression “LMW hyaluronic acid salt” means a hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof having a weight-average molecular weight less than or equal to 60,000 Daltons. In particular, the LMW hyaluronic acid salts in the composition of the invention have a weight average molecular weight of less than or equal to 50,000 Daltons, preferably from 10,000 Daltons to 50,000 Daltons, more preferably from 15,000 Daltons. Daltons to 50,000 Daltons, more preferably 20,000 Daltons to 50,000 Daltons.

In some embodiments, the hyaluronic acid salt is sodium hyaluronate.

Preferably, the content by weight of the hyaluronic acid salt is 0.0001 wt% to 5 wt%, preferably 0.001 wt% to 1 wt%, in terms of the total weight of the composition.

Oil phase

The composition of the present invention comprises at least one oily phase. The oily phase comprises a surfactant and at least one oil, for which the HLB is not more than 13.

More preferably, the required HLB of the oil is 5 to 13.

The required HLB of the oil means the Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance (HLB) value of the surfactant which will confer the lowest interfacial tension between the oily phase and the aqueous phase. When the two phases have the lowest interfacial tension between them, the lowest amount of surfactant is needed to achieve a stable emulsion.

The term “oil” means any nonionic lipophilic compound that is insoluble in water and liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure. Within the meaning of the present invention, the expression "insoluble in water" refers to a compound whose solubility at a spontaneous pH in water at 25° C. and at atmospheric pressure is less than 1% and preferably less than at 0.5%.

Oils which are suitable in the present invention may be hydrocarbon based.

The term “hydrocarbon oil” refers to an oil containing mostly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

The oils may optionally include oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

More preferably, the oils can be chosen from hydrocarbon oils comprising 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C ₈ to C ₁₆ alkanes (also called isoparaffins or isoalkanes), such as isododecane (also called 2 ,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names ISOPARS ^® or PERMETHYLS ^® .

It is also possible to cite, as hydrocarbon oil, linear C ₉ to C ₁₇ alkanes, such as dodecane (C ₁₂ ) and tetradecane (C ₁₄ ), sold respectively under the names PARAFOL ^® 12-97 and PARAFOL ^® 14- 97 (Sasol), and, as alkanes obtained according to the process described in international application WO 2007/068371 A1, such as the mixture of undecane (C ₁₁ ) and tridecane (C ₁₃ ) sold under the name CETIOL ^® UT (Cognis ).

It is also possible to cite, as hydrocarbon oil:

- hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as phytostearyl esters, for example phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytostearyl glutamate (AJINOMOTO, ELDEW PS203), diesters such as diisopropyl sebacate, triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular in which the fatty acids can have chain lengths ranging from C ₄ to C ₃₆ , and in particular from C ₁₈ to C ₃₆ , knowing that it is possible that these oils are linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils may in particular be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea oil, alfalfa oil, poppyseed oil, pumpkin oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, bancoul oil, passion flower oil, shea butter, aloe oil, sweet almond oil, peach kernel oil, peanut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, baobab oil, borage oil , broccoli oil, calendula oil, camelina oil, canola oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, hemp oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, oil wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, meadowfoam oil, St. John's wort oil, monoi oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, walnut oil , olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, black currant seed oil, kiwi seed oil, grapeseed oil, pista oil che, pumpkin oil, pumpkin oil, quinoa oil, rosehip oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, castor oil and watermelon oil, and mixtures thereof, or alternatively, triglycerides of caprylic/capric acid, for example those sold by the company STEARINERIES DUBOIS or those sold under the names MIGLYOL 810 ^® , 812 ^® and 818 ^® by the company DYNAMIT NOBEL,

- linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, squalane;

- synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

- synthetic esters, for example oils of formula R1COOR2, in which R1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, in particular a branched chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R1 and R2 are greater than or equal to 10. The esters may in particular be chosen from fatty acid and alcohol esters, for example: cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxy esters, e.g. isostearyl, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and in particular isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohol or polyalcohol, for example propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, octanoate tridecyl te, 4-diheptanoate and 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol 2-diethylhexanoate, and mixtures thereof, C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoates, hexyl laurate , neopentanoic acid esters, for example isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, or octyldodecyl neopentanoate, esters of isononanoic acid, for example isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate and isononanoate octyl, hydroxy esters such as isostearyl lactate and diisostearyl malate;

- fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for example 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2- undecylpentadecanol,

- higher C ₁₂ to C ₂₂ fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, or linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof, and,

- dialkyl carbonates of formula (III) below:

(III)

in which R1 and R2, identical or different, represent a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain comprising from 3 to 30 carbon atoms.

Preferably, according to one embodiment, in formula (I), R1 and R2, which are identical, represent a linear hydrocarbon chain comprising from 3 to 8 carbon atoms.

More preferably, the dialkyl carbonate is dicaprylyl carbonate.

In one embodiment, said carbonate is caprylyl carbonate, the two alkyl chains optionally being identical, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name CETIOL CC ^® , by Cognis.

- oils of higher molar mass having in particular a molar mass ranging from approximately 400 to approximately 10,000 g/mol, in particular from approximately 650 to approximately 10,000 g/mol, in particular from approximately 750 to approximately 7,500 g /mol, and more particularly ranging from approximately 1000 to approximately 5000 g/mol. As oils of higher molar mass which can be used in the invention, mention can in particular be made of oils chosen from:

• lipophilic polymers,

• hydroxylated esters,

• aromatic esters,

• fatty acid esters or branched C ₂₄ to C ₂₈ fatty alcohols,

• vegetable oils,

• and their mixtures,

Preferably, the oils are chosen from one or more of: isononyl isononanoate, squalane and caprylic/capric triglyceride.

Preferably, the content of the oil is 0.0001 wt% to 30 wt%, preferably 0.001 wt% to 5 wt%, in terms of the total weight of the composition.

Surfactants

A surfactant is also called a surfactant. By "nonionic surfactant" is meant a surfactant without a charged group in its head (ie the charge of the hydrophilic group is neutral). The composition contains one or more other nonionic surfactants.

The nonionic surfactant may be chosen from (C ₁ to C ₂₀ )alkyl phenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated. The number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups optionally ranges from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups optionally ranges from 2 to 30; or as a variant these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 16 to 30 carbon atoms.

Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5, and in particular from 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan preferably containing from 2 to 40 units of ethylene oxide; sucrose fatty acid esters; polyoxyalkylenated and preferably polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters containing from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, including oxyethylenated vegetable oils, derivatives of N-(C ₆ to C ₂₄ alkyl)glucamine, amine oxides such as amine oxides (C ₁₀ to C ₁₄ alkyl) or N-(C ₁₀ to C ₁₄ acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.

Mention may also be made of nonionic surfactants of the polysorbate type, in particular polysorbate 20, also called tween 20.

Mention may also be made of nonionic surfactants of the alkyl(poly)glycoside type, represented in particular by the following general formula:

R ₁ O-(R ₂ O) _t -(G) _v

in which :

- R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

- R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

- G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,

- t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably 0 to 4,

- v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably 1 to 4.

Preferably, the alkylpolyglycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula described above in which:

- R1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms,

- R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

- t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and preferably equal to 0,

- G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;

- the degree of polymerization, ie the value of v, optionally ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2.

The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of type 1 to 6 or 1 to 4 and preferably of type 1 to 4. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. 1,4-Alkyl (C ₈ to C ₁₆ ) (poly)glycosides, and in particular decyl glucosides and caprylyl/capryl glucosides, are more particularly preferred.

Preferably, use is made of (C ₈ to C ₁₆ )alkyl (poly)glycosides 1,4, in particular in the form of a 53% aqueous solution, such as those sold by Cognis under the reference Plantacare® 818 UP.

Preferably, the nonionic surfactants are chosen from (C ₆ to C ₂₄ alkyl)polyglycosides, and more particularly (C ₈ to C ₁₈ alkyl) (poly)glycosides, ethoxylated C ₈ to C ₃₀ fatty acid esters sorbitan, polyethoxylated C ₈ to C ₃₀ fatty alcohols and polyoxyethylenated C ₈ to C ₃₀ fatty acid esters, these compounds preferably containing from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the oxyalkylene chain of the oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol is preferably an oxyethylene chain.

More preferably, it may contain, for example, from 1 to 150 oxyalkylene and especially oxyethylene groups, and preferably from 2 to 100 oxyalkylene and especially oxyethylene groups.

Examples of glycerol oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters which may be mentioned include more particularly (INCI name) PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, and mixtures thereof.

As an illustration of nonionic surfactants, mention may be made of PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, such as those sold by Nof corporation under the trade name Uniox Gt 20IS L.

Examples of other nonionic surfactants which may be mentioned include oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan, fatty acid esters and polyols; oxyalkylenated or non-oxyalkylenated ethers of fatty alcohols and polyols, and mixtures thereof.

Surfactants of this type which may be mentioned include more particularly:

- oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan such as (INCI name) Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 65, Polysorbate 85, PEG 5 sorbitan isostearate, PEG-20 sorbitan triisostearate, PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate, PEG-40 sorbitan septaoleate, PEG- 20 sorbitan tetraoleate and PEG 20 sorbitan trioleate;

- polyglycerol fatty acid esters such as (INCI name) Polyglyceryl-3 Triisostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl 3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Trioleate or Polyglyceryl-10 Trilaurate;

- polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters such as (INCI name) PEG-8 Stearate, PEG-6 Oleate, PEG-6 Isostearate, PEG-12 Isostearate, PEG-12 Diisostearate, PEG-8 Isostearate, PEG-8 Diisostearate or PEG-10 Isostearate;

- oxyalkylenated fatty alkyl ethers, in particular oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylene, more particularly oxyethylenated, for example ceteareth-12 and ceteareth-20 (INCI name), and also the mixtures containing them, for example the mixture sold under the name Emulgade CM by the company Cognis (mixture of cetearyl isononanoate, ceteareth-20, cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, glycerol, ceteareth-12 and cetyl palmitate);

- and mixtures thereof.

Mention may be made of polysorbate 20, such as those sold by Croda under the trade name Tween™ 20-LQ-(AP).

The surfactant may be PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate. The content by weight may be 0.001 wt% to 0.5 wt%, preferably 0.001 wt% to 0.05 wt%, in terms of the total weight of the composition.

Additives

In a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention also comprises at least one compound chosen from hydrophilic solvents, lipophilic solvents and oils other than the non-volatile oils mentioned above, and mixtures thereof.

A cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in the field considered, chosen, for example, from gums, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, silicone surfactants, resins, thickening agents, fillers, dispersants, antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, antiseptics, UV screen agents, cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or agents protecting collagen, colorants, and mixtures thereof.

Accordingly, the composition of the present invention may further comprise at least one filler. Preferably, the filler is a hydrophobic silica airgel particle.

It is routine for those skilled in the art to adjust the nature and the quantity of the additives present in the compositions in accordance with the invention so that their cosmetic properties and desired stability properties are not affected.

The composition according to the invention can be prepared in a conventional manner.

Pharmaceutical form

The composition according to the invention is in two separate phases: oily phase and aqueous phase.

In one embodiment, said aqueous phase is translucent or transparent.

The term "translucent" means that it allows light to pass through without it being possible to distinguish alphanumeric characters using 5 mm thick samples.

The term "transparent" means that allows light to pass through, and makes it possible to distinguish alphanumeric characters using 5 mm thick samples.

Method and use

Another object of the present invention is to provide a process for taking care of and/or making up keratinous materials such as the skin, in particular the face.

The biphasic composition according to the present invention can be used for any topical application.

In particular, the biphasic composition can be used for a non-therapeutic process, such as a cosmetic process, to take care of keratinous materials, such as the skin, in particular the face.

Thus, the present invention also relates to a process for taking care of keratinous materials, such as the skin, in particular the face, comprising the shaking of the biphasic composition as described above to form an emulsion and the application of the emulsion with keratinous materials.

Examples

The stability property of the samples prepared in the respective Examples and Comparative Examples described in detail below was tested according to the specific methods listed below. The test results are shown in Table 1 below.

Shaking stability test

The stability property was evaluated according to a method described below:

1) lightly shake (3 to 5 times) the product, until the oily and aqueous phases are well mixed.

2) Keep the mixed product upright for 8 hours.

3) Observe the interface of the two phases. If the interface of the two phases is clear, the product passes the test.

4) Repeat the above test 14 times. If the product can pass each of the individual tests, the product passes the shake stability test. If the product cannot pass any of the shake stability tests, the product fails the shake stability test.

The following examples were prepared. Table 1 is information on raw materials and compositions of Examples and Comparative Examples. Ex. 1 to Ex. 3 were examples of the present invention. THIS. 1 to CE. 4 were comparative examples. Ingredient information includes INCI name, trade name and relevant suppliers have been listed in Table 1. Also listed in Table 1 is the content by weight of each ingredient.

The detailed procedure for preparing the above examples is as below:

1) Mix the ingredients in the aqueous phase at room temperature until homogeneous.

2) Mix the ingredients in the oil phase at room temperature until all the polymer is dissolved in the water.

3) Fill the oily phase in the packaging.

4) Fill the aqueous phase according to the ratio of the aqueous phase and the oily phase shown in Table 1.

Ingredient Invention (% by weight) Comparative ((% by weight) Oil phase INCI name (Commercial name/supplier) Oil HLB required Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 THIS. 1 THIS. 2 THIS. 3 THIS. 4 Isononyl isononanoate (ercarel isn/O / ERCA (Invented)) 11 4,994 5,000 Squalane (olive squalane/EFP BIOTEK) 10 4,994 Caprylic/capric triglyceride (masester E7000 LR01-1 /mb/PT MUSIM MAS) 11 4,994 C12-15 Alkyl benzoate (C12-C15 benzoate/STEARINERIE DUBOIS) 13 4,994 Butyrospermum parkii butter (lipex 204 FL/ AARHUSKARLSHAMN) 8 Oleic alcohol (rikacol 90B/NEW JAPAN CHEMICAL) 14 4,994 Octyldodecanol (Eutanolg/BASF) 16 4,994 PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate (Uniox Gt 20IS L/Nof corporation) 0.006 0.006 0.006 0.006 0.006 0.006 Aqueous phase Sodium hyaluronate (RENOVHYAL lo/ Soliance (GIVAUDAN)) 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Xanthan gum (Keltrol CG-T/CP KELCO) 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 water QS QS QS QS QS QS QS

Note: "QS" means that the remaining content by weight of the composition is supplemented with water.

Table 2 shows the stability results of the compositions of Ex. 1 through Ex. 3 and CE. 1 to CE. 4.

Properties Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 THIS. 1 THIS. 2 THIS. 3 THIS. 4 Stability SUCCESSFUL SUCCESSFUL SUCCESSFUL Cloudy interface Cloudy interface Cloudy interface Cloudy interface

Table 2 shows that the compositions of Ex. 1 to Ex. 3 passed the stability test and had a clear interface between the two phases and that the comparative examples did not pass the shake stability test.

Claims (10)

Composition for taking care of keratinous materials, comprising at least two phases which can be visually distinguished, and comprising:
(a) at least one aqueous phase, comprising low molecular weight (LMW) hyaluronic acid salts; And
(b) at least one oily phase, comprising a surfactant and an oil for which the required HLB is not more than 13,
wherein the surfactant is oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the hyaluronic acid salt is sodium hyaluronate. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 or 2, in which the content by weight of the hyaluronic acid salts is from 0.0001% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.001% by weight to 1% by weight, in terms of the total weight of the composition. A composition according to any of the preceding claims 1 to 3, wherein the oil is selected from one or more of: isononyl isononanoate, squalene and caprylic/capric triglyceride. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 4, in which the content by weight of the oil is from 0.0001% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.001% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.001% by weight to 5% by weight, in terms of the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 5, in which the surfactant is a nonionic surfactant, preferably chosen from one or more of the group of (C ₁ to C ₂₀ )alkyl phenols, d ethylene and propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides, ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan, fatty acid esters of sucrose, polyoxyalkylenated and preferably polyoxyethylene fatty acid esters containing from 2 to 150 mol of surfactants of the polysorbate type of ethylene oxide, surfactant of the alkyl(poly)glycoside type. A composition according to any of the preceding claims 1 to 6, wherein the surfactant is glycerol oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters, more preferably PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, or mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 7, in which the content by weight of the surfactant is from 0.001% by weight to 0.5% by weight, preferably from 0.001% by weight to 0.05% by weight, in terms of the total weight of the composition. A composition according to any of the preceding claims 1 to 8, wherein the required HLB for the oil is 5 to 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 9, further comprising a water-miscible polyol, in particular the polyol comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms.