CN116096340A - Compositions for caring for keratin materials and methods of use thereof - Google Patents
Compositions for caring for keratin materials and methods of use thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN116096340A CN116096340A CN202080104466.XA CN202080104466A CN116096340A CN 116096340 A CN116096340 A CN 116096340A CN 202080104466 A CN202080104466 A CN 202080104466A CN 116096340 A CN116096340 A CN 116096340A
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/03—Liquid compositions with two or more distinct layers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
- A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/735—Mucopolysaccharides, e.g. hyaluronic acid; Derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/86—Polyethers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/14—Preparations for removing make-up
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/26—Optical properties
- A61K2800/262—Transparent; Translucent
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Abstract
To a composition for caring for keratin materials, comprising two visually distinguishable phases, and comprising: a) At least one aqueous phase comprising a low molecular weight hyaluronate; and b) at least one oil phase comprising a surfactant and an oil, the oil having a desired HLB of not more than 13, wherein the surfactant is an oxyalkylenated fatty acid ester. The interface between the two phases is sufficiently clear and can recover clarity within 8 hours after shaking and mixing the product.
Description
Technical Field
The present invention relates to the field of skin care cosmetics, more specifically it relates to compositions for care of keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face. The invention also relates to a method for caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face.
Background
Biphasic compositions have been described, for example, in documents EP 0370856 and EP 0603080, which are used in particular for removing make-up from the eye.
Document EP 0603080 describes the use of alkyl dimethylbenzyl ammonium (and in particular benzalkonium chloride) as phase separating agent for obtaining a rapid phase separation.
Document EP 1514534 also describes a biphasic composition containing sodium bicarbonate as phase separating agent.
WO 2014/207259A2 discloses a biphasic composition comprising magnesium acetate for topical application.
Hyaluronic Acid (HA) is generally used at very low levels of about 0.01 to 0.5wt.% because of its high price and it gives the compositions containing them a rather sticky and oily feel. In order to obtain compositions with effective moisturizing properties, it has been developed to formulate hyaluronic acid at high levels in the presence of specific surfactants.
However, products comprising HMW hyaluronic acid or products comprising both HMW hyaluronic acid and LMW hyaluronic acid show a high risk of mud pickup (noodles) after application on the skin. Thus, there is a need for a composition comprising and/or cosmetically sufficient amounts of hyaluronic acid or derivatives thereof to minimize the risk of mud pickup.
FR-a-2,645,740, incorporated herein by reference, describes a composition containing an oil phase, an aqueous phase and a solid phase to be mixed immediately before use, the solid phase containing one or more active agents (in particular vitamin a) and an emulsifying agent, and being placed in a cap of a bottle containing two liquid phases. This packaging allows for long storage of the composition before the three phases are mixed by shaking. However, the composition is stable for several hours after mixing, but it is not easy to keep the two phases sufficiently clear after shaking and mixing the two phases.
In a composition comprising two phases, if a high molecular polymer such as sodium hyaluronate is included, the high molecular polymer will temporarily stay at the interface of the oil droplets, which can stabilize the oil droplets and obscure the interface.
Biphasic compositions are attractive to consumers due to their pearl-like appearance. Therefore, it is important to improve the definition of the interface of the two phases.
Summary of The Invention
It is an object of the present invention to provide a composition (particularly for the care of keratin materials) comprising two phases, in particular an interface of the two phases which is sufficiently clear.
The present inventors have completed the present invention through intensive studies.
According to one aspect of the present invention, there is provided a composition for treating keratin materials, comprising two visually distinguishable phases, and comprising:
a) At least one aqueous phase comprising a Low Molecular Weight (LMW) hyaluronate;
b) At least one oil phase comprising a surfactant and an oil, the oil requiring an HLB of no more than 13, wherein the surfactant is an oxyalkylenated fatty acid ester.
According to certain preferred embodiments of the present invention, the hyaluronate has a Low Molecular Weight (LMW). The Molecular Weight (MW) of the hyaluronate is preferably less than or equal to 60000 daltons, more preferably 15,000 daltons to 50,000 daltons, more preferably 20000 daltons to 50000 daltons.
According to certain preferred embodiments of the present invention, the hyaluronate is sodium hyaluronate.
According to certain preferred embodiments of the present invention, the sodium hyaluronate is present in an amount of 0.0001wt.% to 5wt.%, preferably 0.001wt.% to 1wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.
According to certain preferred embodiments of the invention, the oils are isononyl isononanoate, squalene and caprylic/capric triglyceride.
According to certain preferred embodiments of the present invention, the weight content of the oil is from 0.0001wt.% to 30wt.%, preferably from 0.001wt.% to 15wt.%, more preferably from 0.001wt.% to 5wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.
According to certain preferred embodiments of the present invention, the surfactant is a nonionic surfactant.
According to certain preferred embodiments of the present invention, the surfactant is selected from one or more of the following：(C 1-20 ) Alkylphenols, condensates of ethylene oxide with fatty alcohols and condensates of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides, ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan, fatty acid esters of sucrose, polyoxyethylated fatty acid esters of polyoxyethylated fatty acid esters containing preferably from 2 to 150 moles of ethylene oxide, polysorbate type surfactants, alkyl (poly) glycoside type surfactants.
According to certain preferred embodiments of the present invention, the surfactant is PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, or a mixture thereof.
According to certain preferred embodiments of the present invention, the weight content of surfactant is from 0.001wt.% to 0.5wt.%, preferably from 0.001wt.% to 0.05wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.
According to certain preferred embodiments of the invention, the HLB required for the oil is from 5 to 13.
According to certain preferred embodiments of the present invention, the composition further comprises a water miscible polyol, in particular a polyol having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms.
Another subject of the invention is a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials, preferably the skin and/or the lips, comprising the step of applying to the keratin materials a composition as described above.
By "biphasic" in the present invention is meant that the composition comprises at least two visually distinct phases. At least two phases are separated by at least a single interface. In particular, the interface of at least two phases (in particular the aqueous and oily phases) is sufficiently clear and the clarity can be restored as before within 8 hours after shaking the product.
The term "sufficiently clear" is understood to mean a composition having good stability after 14 shaking stability tests. More particularly, the interface will resume to be sufficiently clear again as before the shake, and the clear interface may be stable until the next shake.
As used herein, the term "surfactant-free" means that the aqueous phase in the compositions of the present invention contains no surfactant, or contains surfactant in an amount of no more than 1wt.%, relative to the total composition. Preferably, the composition may contain no more than 0.5wt.%, more preferably no more than 0.2wt.% surfactant, relative to the total weight of the composition.
More preferably, the aqueous phase in the composition of the invention is free of surfactants.
Detailed Description
The invention will be described in further detail with reference to specific embodiments. It will be appreciated that other embodiments may be practiced without departing from the scope or spirit of the invention. The following detailed description is, therefore, not to be taken in a limiting sense. By "the aqueous phase and the oil phase are separate" is meant that the aqueous phase and the oil phase are visible one above the other prior to shaking.
The dual phase composition can be used to care for keratin materials such as the skin, especially the face, after being shaken to form an unstable and homogeneous oil-in-water emulsion.
"skin" means all body skin including (the skin of) the face, lips and eyes.
As used herein, the upper and lower limits of the range of values are included in the range, particularly in the expressions "between … … and … …" and "from.
The term "comprising" as used herein should be interpreted to encompass all the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional unspecified features.
As used herein, use of the term "comprising" also discloses embodiments in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e., "consisting of … …").
Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs. When a definition of a term in this specification conflicts with a meaning commonly understood by those skilled in the art to which the present invention pertains, the definition set forth herein shall apply.
As used herein, the expression "at least one" is used in this specification to be equivalent to the expression "one or more" and it may be replaced by the expression "one or more".
The term "and/or" as used herein refers to one or all of the elements mentioned.
Unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of features and physical and chemical properties used in the specification and claims are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term "about". Accordingly, unless indicated otherwise, the numerical parameters set forth in the foregoing specification and attached claims are approximations and can be employed by those skilled in the art using the teachings disclosed herein. The recitation of value ranges by endpoints includes all numbers subsumed within that range and any range within that range, e.g., 1 to 5 includes 1, 1.1, 1.3, 1.5, 2, 2.75, 3, 3.80, 4, 5, and the like.
Aqueous phase
The aqueous phase comprises one or more hyaluronate salts. The hyaluronate may be selected from one or more of the following: alkali metal salts, such as sodium, potassium salts; and other salts such as zinc salts, silver salts; and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises sodium hyaluronate.
Preferably, the aqueous phase in the composition is free of surfactants.
The aqueous phase may contain water and hydrophilic adjuvants (solvents, actives and additives). The water preferably comprises at least 30wt.%, and still more preferably at least 40wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.
In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises the following amounts of water: the preferred range is 40wt.% to 99wt.% based on the total weight of the composition, 45wt.% to 95wt.% and the preferred range is 50wt.% to 90wt.% based on the total weight of the composition.
The water used may be sterile demineralised water and/or floral water, such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or linden water (lime blossom water); and/or natural spring water or mineral water, for example: a great map (Vittel) water, a Vichy basin (Vichy basin) water, an Ispring (Uria) water, a Roche Posay water, a Bourdoule water, an Oncomelaniban (Enghien-les-Bains) water, a Saint Gervais-les-Bains) water, a Neriliban (Neris-les-Bains) water, an Allevar-les-Bains water, a Dinie (Digne) water, a Maizire water, a Neyrac-les-Bains water, a Long Lesuo Fresnel (Lons-le-Saunier) water, an Eaux Bonnes water, a Luo Shenfu mole (Rochefort) water, a Saint Christiu water, a fuel water, a Tercins-les-Bains water, and a jaca (Avene) water. The aqueous phase may also contain a reconstituted spring water, i.e. water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., which has the characteristics of a reconstituted spring water.
The composition may further comprise a polyol miscible with water at ambient temperature (25 ℃), in particular selected from polyols having in particular from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (especially having 3 to 16 carbon atoms), for example monopropylene glycol (C) 1 -C 4 ) Alkyl ether, dipropylene glycol (C) 1 -C 4 ) Alkyl ethers or tripropylene glycol (C) 1 -C 4 ) Alkyl ether, monoethylene glycol (C) 1 -C 4 ) Alkyl ether, diethylene glycol (C) 1 -C 4 ) Alkyl ethers or triethylene glycol (C) 1 -C 4 ) Alkyl ethers; and mixtures thereof.
In a particular embodiment of the invention, the polyol miscible with water at room temperature is present in the following amounts relative to the total weight of the composition: the range is 1wt.% to 25wt.%, and the preferred range is 3wt.% to 20 wt.%.
In addition, the composition according to the invention may comprise monohydric alcohols having 2 to 6 carbon atoms (e.g. ethanol, isopropanol), in particular in an amount ranging from 0.01wt.% to 20wt.%, and preferably in an amount ranging from 1wt.% to 15wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition in the invention.
Hyaluronate salt
Hyaluronic acid is a non-sulfated linear glycosaminoglycan, consisting of repeating units of D-glucuronic acid and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine. Hyaluronate means hyaluronic acid or a salt of hyaluronic acid.
Low Molecular Weight (LMW) hyaluronate is used in the present invention. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "LMW hyaluronate" means hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof having a weight average molecular weight of less than or equal to 60,000 daltons. In particular, the LMW hyaluronate in the compositions of the present invention has the following weight average molecular weight: less than or equal to 50000 daltons, preferably from 10,000 daltons to 50,000 daltons, more preferably from 15,000 daltons to 50,000 daltons, more preferably from 20,000 daltons to 50,000 daltons.
In some embodiments, the hyaluronate is sodium hyaluronate.
Preferably, the weight content of hyaluronate is from 0.0001wt.% to 5wt.%, preferably from 0.001wt.% to 1wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.
Oil phase
The compositions of the present invention comprise at least one oil phase. The oil phase comprises a surfactant and at least one oil, the HLB for the oil not exceeding 13.
More preferably, the HLB required for the oil is from 5 to 13.
The required HLB of an oil represents the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) value of the surfactant that provides the lowest interfacial tension between the oil phase and the water phase. When the two phases have the lowest interfacial tension between each other, a minimum amount of surfactant is required to achieve a stable emulsion.
The term "oil" means any nonionic lipophilic compound that is insoluble in water and is liquid at room temperature (25 ℃) and atmospheric pressure. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "water-insoluble" refers to a compound having a solubility in water at spontaneous pH of less than 1% and preferably less than 0.5% at 25℃and atmospheric pressure.
Oils suitable for use in the present invention may be hydrocarbon-based.
The term "hydrocarbon oil" refers to an oil that contains primarily hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms.
The oil may optionally include oxygen atoms, nitrogen atoms, sulfur atoms, and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups or acid groups.
More preferably, the oil may be selected from hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and is especially branched C 8 -C 16 Alkanes (also known as isoparaffins or isoparaffins), e.g. isododecane (also known as 2,4, 6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, e.g. under the trade name
Or->
Oil sold.
As hydrocarbon oils, mention may also be made of linear C 9 -C 17 Alkanes, e.g. dodecane (C) 12 ) And tetradecane (C) 14 ) Respectively by the names
12-97 and->
14-97 (Sasol); and as alkanes obtained according to the method described in International application WO2007/068371A1, e.g. under the name +.>
Undecane (C) sold by UT (Cognis) 11 ) And tridecane (C) 13 ) And (3) a mixture.
As hydrocarbon oils, there may be mentioned:
-hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as vegetable stearyl esters, for example vegetable stearyl oleate, vegetable stearyl isostearate, and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/vegetable stearyl glutamate (AJINOMOTO, ELDEW PS 203); diesters, such as diisopropyl sebacate; triglycerides, which consist of fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular wherein the fatty acids may have a range of C 4 ～C 36 (especially C 18 ～C 36 ) These oils may be linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated; the oil can be in particular heptanoic acid triglyceride or octanoic acid triglyceride, butter tree oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin oil, millet oilBarley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, candelilla oil, passion flower oil, shea butter, aloe oil, sweet almond oil, peach kernel oil, peanut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, kapok oil, borage (barrage) oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camelina oil, canola oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, hemp oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, meadowfoam oil, holy jojoba oil, monoi oil, hazelnut oil, almond oil, nut oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, blackcurrant seed oil, kiwi seed oil, grape seed oil, pistachio oil, pumpkin oil, melon oil, quinoa oil, rose oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, and watermelon oil, and mixtures thereof; or caprylic/capric triglyceride, such as those sold by STEARINERIES DUBOIS company, or by DYNAMIT NOBEL company under the name
And->
Those sold;
linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffin and its derivatives, petrolatum, polydecene, polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene (for example Parleam), squalane;
-synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;
synthetic esters, for example oils of formula R1COOR2, wherein R1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, in particular a branched chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that R1 together with R2 is greater than or equal to 10. The esters may be chosen in particular from esters of fatty acids and alcohols, such as cetylstearyl octanoate; isopropyl esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isopropyl isostearate; isostearyl isostearate; octyl stearate; hydroxylated esters, e.gSuch as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate; diisopropyl adipate; heptanoate, and in particular isostearyl heptanoate; octanoic, decanoic or ricinoleic acid esters of alcohols or polyols, for example propylene glycol dioctate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-diheptanoate and 2-ethylhexyl palmitate; alkyl benzoate; polyethylene glycol diheptanoate; propylene glycol 2-diethyl hexanoate; and mixtures thereof; benzoic acid C 12 -C 15 Alkyl esters; hexyl laurate; esters of pivalate such as isodecyl pivalate, isotridecyl pivalate, isostearyl pivalate or octyldodecyl pivalate; isononanoates such as isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate and octyl isononanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate and diisostearyl malate;
fatty alcohols which are liquid at ambient temperature and contain branched and/or unsaturated carbon chains having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol;
-C 12 -C 22 higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, or linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof; and
-a dialkyl carbonate of formula (III):
wherein R1 and R2, which are identical or different, represent a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms.
Preferably, according to one embodiment, in formula (I), R1 and R2 are identical and represent a linear hydrocarbon chain comprising 3 to 8 carbon atoms.
More preferably, the dialkyl carbonate is dioctyl carbonate.
In one embodiment, the carbonate is octyl carbonate, the two alkyl chains may be identical, for example by COGNIS under the designation CETIOL
Dioctyl carbonate is sold.
-oils of higher molar mass, in particular of the following molar mass: ranging from about 400 to about 10,000g/mol, especially from about 650 to about 10,000g/mol, especially from about 750 to about 7500g/mol, and more especially ranging from about 1000 to about 5000g/mol. As higher molar mass oils which can be used in the present invention, mention may be made in particular of oils selected from the group consisting of:
lipophilic polymer;
hydroxylated esters;
aromatic esters;
·C 24 -C 28 esters of branched fatty acids or fatty alcohols;
oil of vegetable origin;
-and mixtures thereof; and
-mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the oil is selected from one or more of the following: isononyl isononanoate, squalane and caprylic/capric triglyceride.
Preferably, the oil is present in an amount of 0.0001wt.% to 30wt.%, preferably 0.001wt.% to 5wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.
Surface active agent
Surfactants are also known as surfactants (surface active agent). "nonionic surfactant" means a surfactant that has no charged groups at its head (i.e., the charge of the hydrophilic group is neutral). The composition contains one or more other nonionic surfactants.
The nonionic surfactant is selected from (C) 1-20 ) Alkylphenols, which are polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated. The number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups may range from 1 to 100 and the number of glycerol groups may range from 2 to 30; alternatively, these compounds comprise at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and in particular from 16 to 30 carbon atoms.
Mention may also be made of the condensation of ethylene oxide with fatty alcoholsCondensate of propylene oxide and fatty alcohol; preferably polyethoxylated fatty amides having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units; polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average 1 to 5 and in particular 1.5 to 4 glycerol groups; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan, preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units; fatty acid esters of sucrose; polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters, and preferably polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters containing from 2 to 150mol of ethylene oxide, comprising oxyethylenated vegetable oils, N- (C) 6-24 Alkyl) glucosamine derivatives; amine oxides, e.g. (C) 10-14 Alkyl) amine oxides or N- (C) 10-14 Acyl) aminopropyl morpholine oxide.
Also mentioned are polysorbate type nonionic surfactants, in particular polysorbate 20 (also known as tween 20).
Mention may also be made of alkyl (poly) glycosidic nonionic surfactants, which are represented in particular by the following general formula:
R 1 O-(R 2 O) t -(G) v
wherein:
-R 1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical containing from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 8 to 18 carbon atoms; or alkylphenyl, the linear or branched alkyl radical of which contains 6 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms;
-R 2 represents an alkylene group containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
g represents a sugar unit containing 5 to 6 carbon atoms,
t represents a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably from 0 to 4,
-v represents a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4.
Preferably, the alkyl polyglycoside surfactant is a compound of the formula wherein:
-R 1 represents a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
-R 2 represents an alkylene group containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
t represents a value ranging from 0 to 3 and preferably equal to 0,
-G represents glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;
the degree of polymerization (i.e. the value of v) may range from 1 to 15, and preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization is more particularly between 1 and 2.
The glycosidic bond between saccharide units is generally of type 1-6 or type 1-4, and preferably of type 1-4. Preferably, the alkyl (poly) glycoside surfactant is an alkyl (poly) glucoside surfactant. Most particularly preferred is C 8 -C 16 Alkyl 1,4- (poly) glycosides, and in particular decyl glucoside and octyl/decyl glucoside.
Preferably, C is used 8 -C 16 Alkyl 1,4- (poly) glycosides, in particular as 53% aqueous solutions, e.g. marked by Cognis
818 UP.
Preferably, the nonionic surfactant is selected from (C 6 -C 24 Alkyl) polyglycosides, and more particularly (C 8 -C 18 Alkyl) (poly) glycosides; ethoxylated C of sorbitan 8 -C 30 Fatty acid esters, polyethoxylated C 8 -C 30 Fatty alcohols, and polyoxyethylated C 8 -C 30 Fatty acid esters, these compounds preferably contain 2 to 150mol of ethylene oxide; and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the alkylene oxide chain of the oxyalkylenated fatty acid ester of glycerol is preferably an oxyethylene chain.
More preferably, it may contain, for example, 1 to 150 alkylene oxide groups and particularly oxyethylene groups, and preferably 2 to 100 alkylene oxide groups and particularly oxyethylene groups.
Examples of oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol that may be mentioned more particularly include (INCI name) PEG-20 triisostearate, PEG-7 cocoate, and mixtures thereof.
As examples of nonionic surfactants, mention may be made of PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, such as those sold by the company Nof corporation under the trade name Uniox Gt 20IS L.
Examples of other nonionic surfactants which may be mentioned include oxidized alkylene fatty acid esters of sorbitan, esters of fatty acids and polyols; oxidized alkylene ethers or non-oxidized alkylene ethers of fatty alcohols and polyols; and mixtures thereof.
Surfactants of this type which may be mentioned more particularly include:
oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan, such as (INCI name) polysorbate 20, polysorbate 65, polysorbate 85, PEG-5 sorbitan isostearate, PEG-20 sorbitan triisostearate, PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate, PEG-40 sorbitan heptaoleate, PEG-20 sorbitan tetraoleate and PEG-20 sorbitan trioleate;
fatty acid esters of polyglycerols, for example (INCI name) polyglycerol-3 triisostearate, polyglycerol-10 diisostearate, polyglycerol-6 isostearate, polyglycerol-3 diisostearate, polyglycerol-10 trioleate or polyglycerol-10 trilaurate;
fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, for example (INCI name) PEG-8 stearate, PEG-6 oleate, PEG-6 isostearate, PEG-12 diisostearate, PEG-8 isostearate, PEG-8 diisostearate or PEG-10 isostearate;
fatty alkyl ethers of oxyalkylenation (in particular oxyethylenation and/or oxypropylenation, more in particular oxyethylenation), such as cetostearyl ether-12 and cetostearyl ether-20 (INCI name), and also mixtures containing them, such as the mixtures sold by the company Cognis under the name Emulgade CM (cetostearyl isononanoate, cetostearyl ether-20, cetostearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, glycerol, cetostearyl ether-12 and cetylpalmitate);
-and mixtures thereof.
Polysorbate 20, for example under the trade name Tween by Croda company, may be mentioned TM Those sold by 20-LQ- (AP).
The surfactant may be PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate. The weight content may be 0.001wt.% to 0.5wt.%, preferably 0.001wt.% to 0.05wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.
Additive agent
In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one compound selected from the group consisting of: hydrophilic solvents, lipophilic solvents, oils other than the non-volatile oils listed previously, and mixtures thereof.
The cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise any additive commonly used in the field under consideration, for example selected from gums, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants or nonionic surfactants, silicone surfactants, resins, thickeners, fillers, dispersants, antioxidants, essential oils, preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizing agents, preservatives, UV screening agents, cosmetic active agents (e.g. vitamins), humectants, emollients or collagen protectants, colorants, and mixtures thereof.
Thus, the composition of the present invention may further comprise at least one filler. Preferably, the filler is hydrophobic silica aerogel particles.
It is a conventional operating problem for the person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amount of additives present in the composition according to the invention so that their desired cosmetic and stability properties are not affected thereby.
The compositions according to the invention can be prepared in a conventional manner.
Galenic form
The composition according to the invention has two separate phases: an oil phase and a water phase.
In one embodiment, the aqueous phase is translucent or transparent.
The term "translucent" means that it allows light to pass through without making it possible to distinguish alphanumeric characters using a 5mm thick sample.
The term "transparent" means that it allows light to pass through and makes it possible to distinguish alphanumeric characters using a 5mm thick sample.
Method and use
It is a further object of the present invention to provide a method for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face.
The biphasic composition according to the invention may be used for any topical application.
In particular, the dual phase compositions are useful in non-therapeutic methods, such as cosmetic methods for caring for keratin materials (e.g., skin, particularly the face).
The invention therefore also relates to a method for caring for keratin materials (such as the skin, in particular the face), comprising shaking the biphasic composition as described above, to form an emulsion, and applying the emulsion to the keratin materials.
Examples
The samples prepared in the respective examples and comparative examples described in detail below were tested for stability properties according to the specific methods listed below. The test results are shown in table 1 below.
Shaking stability test
Stability properties were evaluated according to the methods described below:
1) The product was gently shaken (3-5 times) until the oil and water phases were thoroughly mixed.
2) The mixed product was kept to stand for 8 hours.
3) The interface of the two phases was observed. If the interface between the two phases is clear, the product passes the test.
4) The above test was repeated 14 times. If the product can pass each individual test, the product passes the shake stability test. If the product fails any one of the shake stability tests, the product does not pass the shake stability test.
The following examples were prepared. Table 1 shows the raw material information and the compositions of examples and comparative examples. Ex.1 to Ex.3 are examples of the present invention, and CE.1 to CE.4 are comparative examples. The composition information including INCI name, trade name and related suppliers are listed in table 1. The weight content of each component is also shown in table 1.
The detailed procedure for preparing the above examples is as follows:
1) The ingredients in the aqueous phase were mixed at room temperature until homogeneous.
2) The ingredients in the oil phase were mixed at room temperature until all the polymer was dissolved in water.
3) The oil phase is filled into the package.
4) The aqueous phase was filled according to the ratio of aqueous phase to oil phase shown in table 1.
TABLE 1
Note that: "QS" means the remaining weight content of the composition as supplemented by water.
Table 2 shows the stability results of the compositions of ex.1 to ex.3 and ce.1 to ce.4.
TABLE 2
| Properties of (C) | Ex.1 | Ex.2 | Ex.3 | CE.1 | CE.2 | CE.3 | CE.4 |
| Stability of | By passing through | By passing through | By passing through | Interface blurring | Interface blurring | Interface blurring | Interface blurring |
Table 2 shows that the compositions ex.1 to ex.3 pass the stability (test) and have a clear interface between the two phases, and the comparative example fails the shake stability test.
Claims (12)
1. A composition for treating keratin materials, comprising at least two visually distinguishable phases, and comprising:
a) At least one aqueous phase comprising a Low Molecular Weight (LMW) hyaluronate; and
b) At least one oil phase comprising a surfactant and an oil, said oil requiring an HLB of not more than 13,
wherein the surfactant is an oxyalkylenated fatty acid ester.
2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the hyaluronate has a Molecular Weight (MW) of less than or equal to 60000 daltons, preferably 15,000 daltons to 50,000 daltons, more preferably 20000 daltons to 50000 daltons.
3. The composition of claim 1 or2, wherein the hyaluronate is sodium hyaluronate.
4. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 3, wherein the weight content of hyaluronate is from 0.0001wt.% to 5wt.%, preferably from 0.001wt.% to 1wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.
5. The composition of any of the preceding claims 1-4, wherein the oil is selected from one or more of the following: isononyl isononanoate, squalene and caprylic/capric triglyceride.
6. The composition of any of the preceding claims 1-5, wherein the weight content of the oil is 0.0001wt.% to 30wt.%, preferably 0.001wt.% to 15wt.%, more preferably 0.001wt.% to 5wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.
7. The composition of any of the preceding claims 1-6, wherein the surfactant is a nonionic surfactant, preferably selected from one or more of the following: (C) 1-20 ) Alkylphenols, condensates of ethylene oxide with fatty alcohols and condensates of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides, ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan, fatty acid esters of sucrose, polyoxyethylated fatty acid esters of polyoxyethylated fatty acid esters containing preferably from 2 to 150 moles of ethylene oxide, polysorbate type surfactants, alkyl (poly) glycoside type surfactants.
8. The composition of any of the preceding claims 1-7, wherein the surfactant is an oxyalkylenated fatty acid ester of glycerol, more preferably PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, or a mixture thereof.
9. The composition of any of the preceding claims 1-8, wherein the weight content of the surfactant is 0.001wt.% to 0.5wt.%, preferably 0.001wt.% to 0.05wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.
10. A composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims 1 to 10 wherein the oil has a required HLB of from 5 to 13.
11. The composition of any of the preceding claims 1 to 11, further comprising a water miscible polyol, in particular a polyol having 2 to 20 carbon atoms.
12. A non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, comprising the step of applying the composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 12 on keratin materials.
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/CN2020/106211 WO2022021329A1 (en) | 2020-07-31 | 2020-07-31 | Composition for caring for the keratin materials and a method to use thereof |
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| CN116096340A true CN116096340A (en) | 2023-05-09 |
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| CN202080104466.XA Pending CN116096340A (en) | 2020-07-31 | 2020-07-31 | Compositions for caring for keratin materials and methods of use thereof |
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| Country | Link |
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| CN (1) | CN116096340A (en) |
| FR (1) | FR3112950B1 (en) |
| WO (1) | WO2022021329A1 (en) |
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|---|---|---|---|---|
| FR2638636B1 (en) | 1988-11-09 | 1992-09-11 | Oreal | CLEANER FOR EYES WITH TWO SEPARATE PHASES |
| FR2645740B1 (en) | 1989-04-12 | 1994-01-28 | Fabre Cosmetique Pierre | TOPICAL THREE-PHASE COMPOSITIONS AND EXTENDABLE EMULSIONABLES USEFUL IN COSMETOLOGY AND / OR DERMATOLOGY |
| FR2699404B1 (en) | 1992-12-18 | 1995-01-27 | Oreal | Two-phase cosmetic or dermatological composition for removing make-up, cleansing or caring for the skin containing benzalkonium chloride. |
| DE10235422A1 (en) * | 2002-08-02 | 2004-02-12 | Beiersdorf Ag | Two-phase cosmetic or dermatological composition comprises an aqueous phase containing an alcohol and one or more alkali(ne earth) metal salts and a lipid phase with a defined interfacial tension |
| FR2859626B1 (en) | 2003-09-12 | 2006-01-27 | Oreal | BIPHASE COMPOSITION AND USES IN THE COSMETIC FIELD |
| CA2557147A1 (en) * | 2004-02-27 | 2005-09-15 | The Procter & Gamble Company | A mild body wash |
| EP1798213A1 (en) | 2005-12-14 | 2007-06-20 | Cognis IP Management GmbH | Process for the production of hydrocarbons |
| US20070207937A1 (en) * | 2006-03-06 | 2007-09-06 | L'oreal | Gelled composition |
| FR2993177B1 (en) * | 2012-07-16 | 2014-07-11 | Oreal | BIPHASIC COMPOSITION CONTAINING ALKYLPOLYGLUCOSIDE AND A FUSION POINT ESTER LESS THAN 10 ° C |
| FR3007638B1 (en) * | 2013-06-28 | 2015-08-07 | Oreal | BIPHASE COMPOSITION COMPRISING MAGNESIUM ACETATE |
| FR3012330B1 (en) * | 2013-10-29 | 2015-10-23 | Oreal | BIPHASE COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN ESTER OF FATTY ACID AND SUGAR OR A LIQUID ALKYLPOLYGLUCOSIDE OF HLB <8, AND A C8-C18 BRANCHED ALKANE |
| FR3034989B1 (en) * | 2015-04-20 | 2017-05-19 | Soc De Rech Cosmetique Sarl | COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING HYALURONIC ACID OLIGOMERS AND DEDIFFERENCED AND ELICITED BAGGING VEGETABLE CELLS ENCAPSULATING A SAFFRON EXTRACT |
| DE102018219931A1 (en) * | 2018-11-21 | 2020-05-28 | Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft | Oily facial care preparation |
| CN109820775A (en) * | 2019-01-17 | 2019-05-31 | 东晟源研究院(广州)有限公司 | A kind of multiple-effect bilayer makeup removing breast and preparation method thereof |
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- 2020-07-31 CN CN202080104466.XA patent/CN116096340A/en active Pending
- 2020-07-31 WO PCT/CN2020/106211 patent/WO2022021329A1/en active Application Filing
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| FR3112950A1 (en) | 2022-02-04 |
| FR3112950B1 (en) | 2023-01-06 |
| WO2022021329A1 (en) | 2022-02-03 |
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