FR3132212A1 - skin treatment kit and method - Google Patents

Abstract

The present disclosure relates to a kit comprising two or more separately contained cosmetic compositions which are miscible with each other upon mixing, wherein the two or more cosmetic compositions have: (a) a viscosity of at least 1800 cPs or storage modulus (G') greater than loss modulus (G") for viscosity less than 1800 cPs; and (b) a maximum yield stress of 9000 Pa; and wherein the two or more cosmetic compositions are selected from: (i) oil-in-water emulsions; (ii) water-in-silicone emulsions; and (iii) anhydrous emulsions. Methods of treating the skin using the kits and/or cosmetic compositions are also disclosed Figure for abstract: NONE

Description

necessary and method of skin treatment

The present disclosure relates to a kit comprising two or more separately contained cosmetic compositions which are miscible with each other upon mixing and methods of treating skin using the kit and/or the two or more cosmetic compositions.

SUMMARY

The present disclosure relates, among other things, to a kit comprising two or more separately contained cosmetic compositions and methods of treating skin using the kit and/or the cosmetic compositions. The cosmetic compositions include surprisingly high amounts of various active agents, are stable and miscible with each other. Active agents provide a myriad of cosmetic benefits to the skin but have always been difficult to solubilize and stabilize, especially in large quantities. It is also difficult to develop cosmetic compositions containing different active agents which are miscible with each other. Often, a cosmetic composition which stabilizes and/or solubilizes a particular active agent does not mix homogeneously with another cosmetic composition which stabilizes and/or solubilizes a different active agent, particularly when the architecture of the cosmetic compositions is different. Mixing disparate cosmetic compositions often results in visual coagulation, component or phase separation (e.g., oil, water, silicone, etc.), precipitation of ingredients including active agents, etc.

In one aspect, the present disclosure relates, among other things, to a kit comprising two or more separately contained cosmetic compositions which are miscible with each other upon mixing, wherein each of the two or more compositions comprises:

(a) a viscosity of at least 1,800 cPs or a storage modulus (G’) greater than the loss modulus (G”) for a viscosity less than 1,800 cPs; And

(b) a maximum flow stress of 9000 Pa, for example, a maximum flow stress of less than 7500 Pa, less than 5000 Pa, less than 2500 Pa, less than 2000 Pa, less than 1 500 Pa or less than 1250 Pa;

in which the two or more cosmetic compositions are chosen from:

1. oil-in-water emulsions comprising at least 40% by weight of water and approximately 1 to approximately 20% by weight of an oil phase, relative to the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsion;
2. water-in-silicone emulsions comprising at least 70% by weight of an aqueous phase (internal phase), relative to the total weight of the silicone emulsion; And
3. anhydrous compositions, in which at least 90% by weight of the ingredients forming the anhydrous compositions have a log P value of 2 or less, for example, 1.5 or less, 1 or less, 0.75 or less, 0.5 or less, 0.25 or 0.

In one aspect, the present disclosure relates, among other things, to a method of treating skin comprising:

(A) the mixture of two or more cosmetic compositions which are miscible with each other upon mixing, in which each of the two or more compositions comprises:

(a) a viscosity of at least 1,800 cPs or a storage modulus (G’) greater than the loss modulus (G”) for a viscosity less than 1,800 cPs; And

(b) a maximum flow stress of 9000 Pa, for example, a maximum flow stress of less than 7500 Pa, less than 5000 Pa, less than 2500 Pa, less than 2000 Pa, less than 1 500 Pa or less than 1250 Pa; And

in which the two or more cosmetic compositions are chosen from:

1. oil-in-water emulsions comprising at least 40% by weight of water and approximately 1 to approximately 20% by weight of an oil phase, relative to the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsion;
2. water-in-silicone emulsions comprising at least 70% by weight of an aqueous phase (internal phase), relative to the total weight of the silicone emulsion; And

(iii) anhydrous compositions, in which at least 90% by weight of the ingredients forming the anhydrous compositions have a log P value of 2 or less, for example, 1.5 or less, 1 or less, 0.75 or less, 0.5 or less, 0.25 or 0; And

(B) applying the mixture to the skin.

In some embodiments, at least one of the two or more cosmetic compositions is an oil-in-water emulsion, for example an oil-in-water emulsion as described herein.

In some embodiments, at least one of the two or more cosmetic compositions is a water-in-silicone emulsion, for example a water-in-silicone emulsion as described herein.

In some embodiments, at least one of the two or more cosmetic compositions is an anhydrous composition, for example an anhydrous composition as described herein.

Non-limiting examples of active agents that may be included in cosmetic compositions in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion include retinol, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine, ceramides (e.g., ceramide-NP), madecassoside and mixtures thereof.

A non-limiting example of an active agent that may be included in cosmetic compositions in the form of a water-in-silicone emulsion includes hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, madecassoside, glycerin and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of active agents that may be included in anhydrous cosmetic compositions include ascorbic acid, ferulic acid, glycerin, polygonum cuspidatum root extract, and mixtures thereof.

In some embodiments, the kit is an apparatus for independently dispensing a specified quantity of each of two or more cosmetic compositions, wherein the apparatus includes a dispensing assembly configured to receive a plurality of cartridges in which the two or more cosmetic compositions more are contained separately and a receiving area into which each of the two or more cosmetic compositions is dispensed. In one embodiment, each cartridge of the plurality of cartridges contains a different cosmetic composition. In another embodiment, the apparatus further includes a memory configured to receive and store dispensing information that includes the specified amount of cosmetic composition to be dispensed from each cartridge; and circuitry configured to obtain the dispensing information from the memory and to control the dispensing assembly to dispense the specified quantity of the cosmetic composition to be dispensed from each cartridge. Optionally, the receiving portion of the apparatus is configured to be part of a detachable portion of the apparatus and the detachable portion is configured to be a closed container that contains the dispensed cosmetic composition(s).

In one embodiment, the methods improve elasticity, promote hyaluronic acid production, collagen synthesis, synthesis of epidermal structural components, regeneration of damaged tissues, and reduce the effects of aging facial skin or body.

In some embodiments, the methods include strengthening or improving the skin's natural lipid barrier; the treatment of dry and/or aging skin; maintaining and/or improving the water balance of the skin; and/or improving the overall appearance of the skin.

In certain embodiments, particularly when at least one of the two or more cosmetic compositions includes hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol, the methods reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve the production of hyaluronic acid by stimulating the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) , soften the stratum corneum to relieve cumulative stress on the epidermis and dermis, etc.

In certain embodiments, in particular when at least one of the two or more cosmetic compositions includes retinol, the methods stimulate the production of collagen and/or elastin, reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and uneven skin tone, tighten the skin, prevent and/or treat acne, reduce the development of melanin and improve and brighten the complexion.

In certain embodiments, particularly when at least one of the two or more cosmetic compositions includes ceramides (e.g., ceramide-NP), the methods hydrate the skin and maintain the moisture balance of the skin, alleviate/reduce itching, chronic dryness, peeling and flaking. Such processes are also useful in strengthening the skin's natural lipid barrier, which helps treat dry and aging skin.

In some embodiments, particularly when at least one of the two or more cosmetic compositions includes 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol, the methods reduce skin irritation, soothe the skin and/or reduce or relieve stinging, burning and tension.

In certain embodiments, particularly when at least one of the two or more cosmetic compositions includes acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine, the methods improve elasticity, promote hyaluronic acid production, collagen synthesis, component synthesis epidermal structural, regeneration of damaged tissues and reduce the effects of aging of the skin of the face or body.

Other features and iterations of the invention are described in more detail below.

detailed description

A common problem associated with cosmetic compositions, particularly compositions comprising multiple components, is ensuring physical stability, chemical stability, solubility and the like throughout the life of the cosmetic product. Many active agents are difficult to stabilize and solubilize, especially when used in large quantities. The consequences of stability and solubility problems are significant. For example, stability issues can result in partial or even complete loss of product integrity, loss of color, bad odor, viscosity changes, etc. Stability and solubility issues may result in an increase or decrease in the amount of the component in question to be applied. When it comes to active ingredients, stability and solubility issues reduce or eliminate activity, and prevent active ingredients from reaching their intended target in the desired quantity.

With aging, the outer layer of skin (epidermis) thins, even though the number of cell layers remains unchanged. On the other hand, the number of cells containing pigments (melanocytes) decreases. As a result, the skin appears pale and translucent. Large pigmented spots (age spots, liver spots or lentigines) may appear in areas exposed to the sun. Changes in connective tissue reduce the strength and elasticity of the skin. This phenomenon is known as elastosis. It is more visible in areas exposed to the sun (solar elastosis). Elastose gives skin the tanned, weather-worn appearance found in farmers, sailors, and people who spend a lot of time outdoors. Dehydration increases the risk of skin damage. Poor nutrition can also have a negative influence on the skin, causing dryness, rashes and swelling.

Human skin acts as a primary barrier between the body and its environment. The lipid matrix of the outermost layer of the skin (epidermis), the stratum corneum (SC), is crucial for this skin barrier function. Two of its functions are (1) to prevent excessive loss of water through the epidermis and (2) to prevent environmental compounds from penetrating the viable layers of the epidermis and dermis and do not provoke an immune response. The composition of the SC lipid matrix is dominated by three classes of lipids: cholesterol, free fatty acids and ceramides. These lipids adopt a highly ordered three-dimensional structure of stacked and densely packed lipid layers (lipid lamellae): the lateral and lamellar lipid organization. How these lipids are ordered depends on the composition of the lipids. A very common skin disease in which the SC lipid barrier is affected is atopic dermatitis (AD).

What is needed, among other things, are compositions containing high amounts of active agents that treat, nourish and improve the appearance of the skin, which are stable and compatible with each other. The cosmetic compositions of the present case meet these requirements. Although the present compositions include high amounts of one or more active agents, they are surprisingly stable. In addition, the cosmetic compositions are surprisingly compatible with each other, that is to say they are miscible with each other. The various cosmetic compositions can be mixed with each other to form a homogeneous and aesthetically pleasing mixture to apply to the skin. Different active agents provide different benefits to the skin. The various cosmetic compositions described here (containing a variety of different active agents) can be selected and mixed with each other to create a unique blend that meets the specific skin needs of an individual consumer. In other words, cosmetic compositions containing the necessary active agents can be selected and mixed to provide a "consumer specific" mixture containing the plurality of active agents appropriate for an individual consumer's skin type.

In one embodiment, the kits of the present disclosure include two or more separately contained cosmetic compositions which are miscible with each other upon mixing, wherein each of the two or more compositions comprises:

(a) a viscosity of at least 1,800 cPs or a storage modulus (G’) greater than the loss modulus (G”) for a viscosity less than 1,800 cPs; And

(b) a maximum flow stress of 9000 Pa, for example, a maximum flow stress of less than 7500 Pa, less than 5000 Pa, less than 2500 Pa, less than 2000 Pa, less than 1 500 Pa or less than 1250 Pa; And

in which the two or more cosmetic compositions are chosen from:

1. oil-in-water emulsions comprising at least 40% by weight of water and approximately 1 to approximately 20% by weight of an oil phase, relative to the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsion;
2. water-in-silicone emulsions comprising at least 70% by weight of an aqueous phase (internal phase), relative to the total weight of the silicone emulsion; And

(iii) anhydrous compositions, in which at least 90% by weight of the ingredients forming the anhydrous compositions have a log P value of 2 or less, for example, 1.5 or less, 1 or less, 0.75 or less, 0.5 or less, 0.25 or 0.

In one embodiment, the methods of the present disclosure include:

(A) the mixture of two or more cosmetic compositions which are miscible with each other upon mixing, in which each of the two or more compositions comprises:

(a) a viscosity of at least 1,800 cPs or a storage modulus (G’) greater than the loss modulus (G”) for a viscosity less than 1,800 cPs; And

(b) a maximum flow stress of 9000 Pa, for example, a maximum flow stress of less than 7500 Pa, less than 5000 Pa, less than 2500 Pa, less than 2000 Pa, less than 1 500 Pa or less than 1250 Pa; And

in which the two or more cosmetic compositions are chosen from:

1. oil-in-water emulsions comprising at least 40% by weight of water and approximately 1 to approximately 20% by weight of an oil phase, relative to the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsion;
2. water-in-silicone emulsions comprising at least 70% by weight of an aqueous phase (internal phase), relative to the total weight of the silicone emulsion; And

(iii) anhydrous compositions, in which at least 90% by weight of the ingredients forming the anhydrous compositions have a log P value of 2 or less, for example, 1.5 or less, 1 or less, 0.75 or less, 0.5 or less, 0.25 or 0; And

(B) applying the mixture to the skin.

The viscoelastic properties of a material are classically defined by two characteristic values: (1) the storage modulus, which represents the elastic behavior of a material for a given frequency classically denoted G′; and (2) the loss modulus, which represents the viscous behavior of a material for a given frequency classically denoted G″. These quantities are defined, for example, in “Handbook of Pressure Sensitive Adhesive Technology” 3rd edition, D. Satas, chap. 9, pp. 155 to 157. Viscoelastic properties can be determined using rheology, for example with a DHR-2 rheometer (TA Instruments, New Castle, Delaware, USA) at 20 °C. A 2° plane-cone (diameter = 40 mm) is used for these rheological measurements. A strain sweep is performed from 0.01% to 1000% strain at a fixed frequency ω= 1 rad/s.

In some embodiments, at least one of the two or more cosmetic compositions is an oil-in-water emulsion. In other embodiments, at least one of the two or more cosmetic compositions is an oil-in-water emulsion and at least one of the two or more cosmetic compositions is a water-in-silicone emulsion of an anhydrous composition.

In some embodiments, at least one of the two or more cosmetic compositions is a water-in-silicone emulsion. In other embodiments, at least one of the two or more cosmetic compositions is a water-in-silicone emulsion and at least one of the cosmetic compositions is an oil-in-water emulsion or an anhydrous composition.

In some embodiments, at least one of the two or more cosmetic compositions is an anhydrous composition. In other embodiments, at least one of the two or more cosmetic compositions is an anhydrous composition and at least one of the two or more compositions is an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-silicone emulsion.

In some embodiments, the kits and methods utilize three or more separately contained cosmetic compositions that are miscible with each other after mixing. In a preferred embodiment, at least one of the three or more cosmetic compositions is in a form that differs from another form of another cosmetic composition of the three or more cosmetic compositions. In other words, not all three or more compositions are oil-in-water emulsions; or the three or more compositions are not all water-in-silicone emulsions; or the three or more compositions are not all anhydrous compositions.

In embodiments in which at least one of the cosmetic compositions is an oil-in-water emulsion, the oil-in-water emulsion includes retinol, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine, ceramides, or a mixture thereof. In one embodiment, the oil-in-water emulsion includes hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol. In one embodiment, the oil-in-water emulsion includes 4-t-butylcyclohexanol. In one embodiment, the oil-in-water emulsion includes both hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol and 4-t-butylcyclohexanol. In one embodiment, the oil-in-water emulsion includes trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine. In one embodiment, the oil-in-water emulsion includes ceramides, preferably ceramide-NP.

In embodiments where at least one of the cosmetic compositions is a water-in-silicone emulsion, the water-in-silicone emulsion includes hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol.

In embodiments where at least one of the cosmetic compositions is an anhydrous composition, the anhydrous composition includes ascorbic acid, ferulic acid, or a mixture thereof. In one embodiment, the anhydrous composition includes ascorbic acid. In one embodiment, the anhydrous composition includes ferulic acid. In one embodiment, the anhydrous composition includes both ascorbic acid and ferulic acid.

The term “necessary” means a combination of parts, compositions and/or packaging, which may be in the form of an assembly, a device, a packaged product, and the like. The kits in the present case include two or more cosmetic compositions contained separately which are miscible with each other after mixing. In one embodiment, the kit may be a packaged product, the packaging including two or more independent containers or bottles, each containing a different cosmetic composition. In another embodiment, the two or more separately contained cosmetic compositions may be included in a single container or bottle having two or more different chambers for separately housing each cosmetic composition.

In another embodiment, the kit is an apparatus, for example, an apparatus which separately accommodates the two or more cosmetic compositions, for example, in two or more cartridges within the apparatus; and independently dispenses the two or more cosmetic compositions. For example, the apparatus may include a dispensing assembly configured to receive a plurality of cartridges in which the two or more cosmetic compositions are separately contained and a receiving area in which each of the two or more cosmetic compositions is dispensed. In a preferred embodiment, the apparatus dispenses a specified amount of each of two or more cosmetic compositions. In another embodiment, each cartridge of the plurality of cartridges contains a different cosmetic composition. In some embodiments, the apparatus further includes memory configured to receive and store dispensing information, such as the specified amount of cosmetic composition to be dispensed from each cartridge; and circuitry configured to obtain the dispensing information from the memory and to control the dispensing assembly to dispense the specified quantity of the cosmetic composition to be dispensed from each cartridge. In one embodiment, the apparatus includes a reception into which the two or more cosmetic compositions are dispensed. In some embodiments, the reception area is configured to be part of a detachable portion of the apparatus. The detachable portion may optionally be configured to be a closed container that contains the dispensed cosmetic composition(s).

In one embodiment, the apparatus includes a dispensing assembly configured to receive at least two cartridges, each containing a cosmetic composition, and to dispense a specified quantity of the cosmetic compositions from the cartridges into a receiving area; a memory configured to receive and store dispensing information that includes the specified quantity of the cosmetic compositions to be dispensed for each cartridge disposed in the dispensing assembly to achieve a specified single use of a combination of the cosmetic compositions; and a circuit configured to obtain the dispensing information from the memory and to control the dispensing assembly to dispense the cosmetic compositions from each cartridge disposed in the dispensing assembly into the receiving area according to the specified quantity or quantities included in the distribution information.

In one embodiment, the apparatus includes a dispensing assembly configured to receive two or more cartridges (a plurality) that each contain a different cosmetic composition and to dispense a specified quantity of the different cosmetic compositions from the two or more cartridges into a reception area; a memory configured to receive and store dispensing information that includes the specified quantity of each cosmetic composition to be dispensed for each cartridge disposed in the dispensing assembly to obtain a specified single-use mixture of the two or more cosmetic compositions; and a circuit configured to obtain the dispensing information from the memory and to control the dispensing assembly to dispense the two or more cosmetic compositions from each cartridge disposed in the dispensing assembly into the receiving area in the specified quantity or quantities included in the distribution information.

In one embodiment, the apparatus further includes a manifold having a plurality of manifold through-holes, the manifold being connected to and disposed on a nozzle of each of the two or more cartridges, the receiving area being connected to and disposed above the manifold, wherein the circuitry controls the dispensing assembly to dispense a quantity of the two or more cosmetic compositions from the nozzles of the two or more cartridges through a manifold through-hole of the manifold, and into the area of reception.

In one embodiment, the dispensing assembly is configured to receive three or more cartridges, each containing a different cosmetic composition, and to simultaneously dispense a specified quantity of the three or more cosmetic compositions from each of the cartridges into the dispensing area. reception.

In one embodiment, the closed container includes: a top cover; a base, having a plurality of base through holes; and a lower cover, having a plurality of lower cover through holes, in which the upper cover is connected to a first side of the base, the lower cover is connected to a second side of the base, the lower cover is connected to the collector , the plurality of collector through-holes are aligned with and connected to the plurality of bottom cover through-holes, the plurality of base through-holes are aligned with and connected to the plurality of base through-holes. In another embodiment, the closed container further includes: a plurality of mounting magnets, disposed between the base and the bottom cover, wherein the plurality of mounting magnets magnetically attaches the closed container to the collector. In another embodiment, the closed container further includes: a plurality of lid magnets, disposed between the base and the lower lid, wherein the plurality of lid magnets magnetically attaches the upper lid to the base and the bottom cover. In another embodiment, the closed container further comprises: a plurality of hinge magnets, wherein half of the plurality of hinge magnets are disposed between the base and the bottom cover, half of the plurality of hinge magnets The hinge magnets are disposed inside the top cover, the plurality of hinge magnets disposed inside the top cover having opposite magnetic polarity to the corresponding plurality of hinge magnets disposed between the base and the cover lower, the upper cover being magnetically hinged and disposed around the base and the lower cover in at least one position. In one embodiment, the top cover is only magnetically connected to the base and the bottom cover, and the top cover is fully removable from the base and the bottom cover.

The present disclosure relates to methods of treating skin using the kits/apparatus/devices and methods described herein. The methods include applying to the skin a mixture of cosmetic compositions according to the present disclosure, and optionally maintaining the mixture of cosmetic compositions on the skin for a certain period of time. The mixture of cosmetic compositions is typically applied directly to the skin using the hand or a tissue. The skin can optionally be washed or rinsed before application. The skin treatment process can be carried out once a day or several times. For example, the skin treatment method can be carried out once a day, twice a day, once a week, twice a week for an extended period of time, for example, for about 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, or 6 months up to 1 year, or more. In one embodiment, the methods include dispensing two or more cosmetic compositions from an apparatus that separately contains the two or more cosmetic compositions, such as in two or more cartridges; mixing two or more cosmetic compositions; and applying the mixture to the skin. In one embodiment, the apparatus dispenses a specified amount of each of two or more cosmetic compositions. In another embodiment, the apparatus dispenses quantities of the two or more cosmetic compositions sufficient for a single application or treatment with a mixture of the quantities of the two or more cosmetic compositions. In one embodiment, the apparatus dispenses the two or more cosmetic compositions into a receiving portion of the apparatus. The two or more cosmetic compositions may be mixed together in the receiving portion of the apparatus or may be transferred to another area for mixing, for example, in the hand(s) of an individual. In one embodiment, the individual mixes the two or more cosmetic compositions together, for example, in the individual's hands, and then applies the mixture to the skin.

The two or more cosmetic compositions are typically mixed together shortly before application to the skin. In certain embodiments, the two or more cosmetic compositions are mixed together within 24 hours of application to the skin. In other embodiments, the two or more cosmetic compositions are mixed together within 12 hours, 6 hours, 1 hour, 30 minutes, 10 minutes, 5 minutes or 1 minute following application to the skin. In a preferred embodiment, the two or more cosmetic compositions are mixed immediately before application, i.e. within approximately 1 minute, approximately 30 seconds or approximately 20 seconds before application.

Cosmetic compositions containing hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol provide benefits such as reduction of fine lines and wrinkles, improvement of hyaluronic acid production via stimulation of glycosaminoglycan (GAG) synthesis, softening of the stratum corneum to relieve cumulative stress on the epidermis and dermis, etc. Thus, the methods of the present case concern the improvement of the production of hyaluronic acid via the stimulation of the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans (GAG), the softening of the stratum corneum to relieve cumulative stress on the epidermis and the dermis, etc.

Cosmetic compositions containing retinol make it possible to stimulate the production of collagen and/or elastin, to reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and uneven skin tone, to firm the skin, to prevent and/or treat acne , reduce the development of melanin, improve and lighten the complexion. Thus, the methods of the present disclosure relate to reducing the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and uneven skin tone, tightening the skin, preventing and/or treating acne, reducing the development melanin and improving and brightening the complexion.

Cosmetic compositions comprising ceramides (e.g., ceramide-NP) moisturize the skin and maintain moisture balance, alleviate/reduce itching, chronic dryness, peeling and flaking. Ceramide-NP is also useful in strengthening the skin's natural lipid barrier, which helps treat dry, aging skin. Thus, the methods of the present disclosure relate to hydrating the skin and maintaining moisture balance, alleviating/reducing itching, chronic dryness, peeling and flaking; and strengthening the skin's natural lipid barrier, to treat dry and aging skin.

Cosmetic compositions comprising 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol reduce skin irritation, soothe the skin and/or reduce or relieve tingling, burning and tension. Thus, the methods of the present disclosure relate to reducing irritation of the skin, soothing the skin, and/or relieving the sensation of tingling, burning and tension.

Cosmetic compositions comprising acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine improve elasticity, promote hyaluronic acid production, collagen synthesis, synthesis of epidermal structural components, regeneration of damaged tissues, and reduce the effects of skin aging of the face or body. Thus, the methods of the present disclosure relate to improving elasticity, promoting hyaluronic acid production, collagen synthesis, synthesis of epidermal structural components, regeneration of damaged tissues and reduction effects of aging skin on the face or body.

Cosmetic compositions useful in the kits and methods mentioned above are described in more detail below, under the headings "Oil-in-water emulsion", "Water-in-silicone emulsions" and "Anhydrous compositions".

Oil-in-water emulsion

Cosmetic compositions in the form of oil-in-water emulsions are characterized in that they comprise at least 40% by weight of water and approximately 1 to approximately 20% by weight of an oily phase, relative to the weight total of the oil-in-water emulsion. In addition, oil-in-water emulsions (or simply, cosmetic compositions) include one or more active agents, preferably one or more active agents which are stabilized and/or solubilized in the oil phase or the aqueous phase of the emulsions. In a preferred embodiment, at least one of the one or more active agents is retinol, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine, ceramides, or a mixture thereof.

Oil-in-water emulsions including retinol

In one embodiment, cosmetic compositions in the form of oil-in-water emulsions include retinol. The amount of retinol varies. However, in various embodiments, the amount of retinol ranges from about 0.05 to about 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In other embodiments, the amount of retinol in the compositions is about 0.05 to about 5 weight percent, about 0.05 to about 4 weight percent, about 0.05 to about 3% by weight, about 0.05 to about 2% by weight, about 0.1 to about 6% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, about 0.1 to about 2% by weight, about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, or about 0.5 to about 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the product.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition includes:

(a) retinol, preferably in the quantities specified above;

(b) a plurality of nonionic emulsifiers comprising:

(i) one or more ethoxylated fatty acids; And

(ii) one or more nonionic emulsifiers having a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) of about 9 to about 12;

1. optionally, one or more glyceryl esters;

(iv) optionally, one or more additional nonionic emulsifiers;

(c) one or more fatty alcohols;

(d) one or more fatty compounds;

(e) one or more thickening polymers; And

(f) water.

The plurality of nonionic emulsifiers represents all of the nonionic emulsifiers in cosmetic compositions.

The total amount of the plurality of nonionic emulsifiers (all nonionic emulsifiers) in the cosmetic compositions varies. However, in some embodiments, the total amount of the plurality of nonionic emulsifiers is about 1 to about 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In other embodiments, the total amount of the plurality of nonionic emulsifiers is between about 1 and about 6 wt.%, about 1 and about 5 wt.%, about 1 and about 4 wt.%, about 1 and about 3% by weight, about 1.1 and about 8% by weight, about 1.1 and about 6% by weight, about 1.1 and about 5% by weight, about 1.1 and about 4% by weight weight, about 1.1 and about 3% by weight, about 1.1 to about 2% by weight, about 1.5 to about 8% by weight, about 1.5 to about 6% by weight, about 1.5 to about 5% by weight, about 1.5 to about 4% by weight, or about 1.5 to about 3% by weight, 2 to about 8% by weight, about 2 to about 6% by weight, about 2 to about 5% by weight, about 2 to about 4% by weight, or about 2 to about 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Non-limiting examples of ethoxylated fatty acids include adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, particularly those containing 9 with 100 oxyethylene groups, such as PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 (for INCI names: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); palmitate from PEG-9 to PEG-50 (for INCI names: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (for INCI names: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); palmitostearate from PEG-9 to PEG-50; behenate from PEG-9 to PEG-50 (for INCI names: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate (for INCI name: PEG-100 stearate); and their mixtures. A more exhaustive but non-limiting list of useful ethoxylated fatty acids is provided under the heading “Ethoxylated Fatty Acids”.

The total quantity of the ethoxylated fatty acid(s) may be between approximately 0.1 and approximately 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In various embodiments, the total amount of one or more ethoxylated fatty acids may be about 0.1 to about 4 weight percent, about 0.1 to about 3 weight percent, about 0 .1 to about 2% by weight, from about 0.2 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.2 to about 4 about 0.2 to about 4% by weight, about 0.2 to about 3% by weight, or about 0.2 to about 2% by weight, about 0.4 to about 5% by weight, about 0.4 to about 4% by weight, about 0.4 to about 3% by weight, or about 0.4 to approximately 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Non-limiting examples of nonionic emulsifiers having a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) of about 9 to about 12 include alkyl polyglucosides (e.g., C _12-20 alkyl glucosides), polyglycerol-based emulsifiers ( for example, polygyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate), sorbitan fatty esters, sugar fatty esters, polyol fatty esters, their ethoxylates, or a mixture thereof. A more exhaustive but non-limiting list of nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 9 to about 12 is included under the heading "nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of 9 to 12".

The total amount of the one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of 9 to 12 varies. However, in certain embodiments, the total amount of the one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of 9 to 12 is from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In other embodiments, the total amount of the one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of 9 to 12 is about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, about 0.1 to about 3% by weight. weight, from about 0.1 to about 2% by weight, from about 0.2 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.2 to about 4% by weight, from about 0.2 to about 3 % by weight, or from about 0.2 to about 2% by weight, from about 0.3 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.3 to about 4% by weight, from about 0.3 to about 3% by weight, or about 0.3 to about 2% by weight, about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, or about 0.5 to about 2% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, about 1 to about 4% by weight, about 1 to about 3% by weight, or about 1 to about 2% by weight, per relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Non-limiting examples of glyceryl esters include bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, glyceryl behenate, glyceryl caprate, glyceryl cocoate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl lanolate, glyceryl laurate glyceryl, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl palmitate lactate, glyceryl sesquioleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl dioleate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl laurate, or a mixture thereof. In at least one case, the glyceryl ester includes glyceryl stearate, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate, glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof. A more exhaustive but non-limiting list of glyceryl esters is included under the heading “Glyceryl Fatty Esters”.

The total amount of the one or more glyceryl esters, if present, varies. However, in certain embodiments, the total quantity of the glyceryl ester(s), if present, is between approximately 0.1 and approximately 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In other embodiments, the total amount of the one or more glyceryl esters is about 0.1 to about 4 weight percent, about 0.1 to about 3 weight percent, about 0. 1 to about 2% by weight, about 0.2 to about 5% by weight, about 0.2 to about 4% by weight, about 0.2 to about 3% by weight, or about 0. 2 to about 2% by weight, about 0.3 to about 5% by weight, about 0.3 to about 4% by weight, about 0.3 to about 3% by weight, or about 0.3 to about 2% in weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols include fatty alcohols having 12 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular C _14-24 alcohols, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol , lauric alcohol, myristic or myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. A more exhaustive but non-limiting list of fatty alcohols is included under the heading “Fatty Alcohols”.

The total quantity of one or more fatty alcohols in the cosmetic compositions varies. However, in certain embodiments, the total amount of the one or more fatty alcohols is between 0.1% by weight and approximately 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In other embodiments, the total amount of the one or more fatty alcohols in the composition is between about 0.1 and about 6 weight percent, about 0.1 and about 5 weight percent, about 0.1 and about about 4% by weight, about 0.5 and about 8% by weight, about 0.5 and about 6% by weight. % by weight, about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight, about 1 to about 6% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, about 1 to about 4% by weight, or about 1 to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Non-limiting examples of fatty compounds include fatty esters (e.g., diisopropyl sebacate, isonyl isononanoate), polyolefins (petrolatum), waxes, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene , polybutene, mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, plant and/or vegetable oil (e.g. soybean oil), hydrocarbon-based oils (isohexadecane), silicone oils (e.g. dimethicone, dimethiconol , and a mixture thereof. A more exhaustive but non-limiting list of fatty compounds is provided under the heading "Fatty Compounds."

The amount of the one or more fatty compounds in the cosmetic compositions will vary. However, in certain embodiments, the total quantity of the fatty compound(s) is between approximately 1% by weight and approximately 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In other embodiments, the amount of the one or more fatty compounds in the cosmetic compositions is about 1 to about 18% by weight, about 1 to about 15% by weight, about 5 to about 20%. by weight, from about 5 to about 20% by weight, from about 5 to about 15%, from about 6 to about 20% by weight, from about 6 to about 18% by weight, from about 6 to about about 15% by weight, from about 8 to about 20% by weight, from about 8 to about 18% by weight, or from about 8 to about 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Non-limiting examples of thickening polymers include taurate copolymers, polyacrylates, polyacrylamides, etc., for example, polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-6, sodium polyacrylate, polyacrylamide. Non-limiting examples of taurate copolymers include acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, acryloyl dimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer, sodium acrylate/acryloyl dimethyl copolymer sodium taurate, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, and mixtures thereof. A more exhaustive but non-limiting list of thickening polymers is provided under the title “Thickening Polymers.” »

The quantity of one or more thickening polymers will vary depending on the type of thickening polymers used; and depending on the desired viscosity of the cosmetic composition. Therefore, in one embodiment, the total amount of the one or more thickening agents is sufficient to obtain the viscosities specified in the present disclosure. However, in various embodiments, the total quantity of the thickening agent(s) is between approximately 0.1 and approximately 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In other embodiments, the total amount of the one or more thickening agents is about 0.1 to about 6 weight percent, about 0.1 to about 5 weight percent, about 0.1 to about 4 percent. by weight, about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, about 0.5 to about 6% by weight, about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, about 0, 5 to about 4% by weight, about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight, about 1 to about 6% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, about 1 to about 4% by weight, about 1 to about 3% by weight or about 1 to about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The quantity of water in cosmetic compositions can and will vary depending on the quantity of other components in the cosmetic compositions. In various embodiments, the total amount of water in the compositions is between about 55 and about 85% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In other embodiments, the amount of water in the cosmetic composition is between about 55 and about 80% by weight, about 55 and about 75% by weight, about 60 and about 85% by weight, about 60 and about 80% by weight, about 60 and about 75% by weight, about 65 and about 85% by weight, about 65 and about 80% by weight, about 65 and about 75% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition cosmetic.

In one embodiment, cosmetic compositions in the form of oil-in-water emulsions include one or more water-soluble solvents. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include glycerin, C ₂ -C ₅ monoalcohols, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols and a mixture thereof. In one embodiment, the water-soluble solvent(s) are chosen from propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethanol, isopropanol, t-butyl alcohol, and their mixtures. A more exhaustive but non-limiting list of water-soluble solvents is provided under the heading “Water-Soluble Solvents”.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions may optionally include one or more miscellaneous ingredients. Non-limiting examples of miscellaneous ingredients include various emulsifiers/surfactants other than those specified above, preservatives, fragrances, pH correctors, salts, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, extracts botanicals, UV filtration agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and/or isolates, hydrotropes, pearling agents, fillers, colorants, mattifying agents, other skin active agents, depigmenting agents , anti-wrinkle agents, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition includes at least one other active agent for the skin, for example, madecassoside. A more exhaustive but non-exhaustive list of various ingredients is provided under the heading “Miscellaneous Ingredients”.

The miscellaneous ingredients may be included in the cosmetic composition, for example, in an amount of about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The total amount of the one or more miscellaneous ingredients may be from about 0.01 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.01 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 3% by weight weight, from about 1 to about 10% by weight, from about 1 to about 8% by weight, from about 1 to about 5% by weight, or from about 1 to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions in the form of oil-in-water emulsions include:

(a) about 0.05 to about 6 weight percent retinol;

(b) about 1 to about 8% by weight of a plurality of nonionic emulsifiers comprising:

(i) one or more ethoxylated fatty acids; And

(ii) one or more nonionic emulsifiers having a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) of about 9 to about 12;

(iii) optionally, one or more glyceryl esters;

(iv) optionally, one or more additional nonionic emulsifiers;

(c) about 0.1 to about 8% by weight of one or more fatty alcohols;

(d) about 1 to about 20% by weight of one or more fatty compounds;

(e) one or more thickening polymers; And

(f) water;

wherein the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition comprises or consists of:

(a) about 0.05 to about 6% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 3% by weight of retinol;

(b) about 1 to about 8 weight percent, preferably about 1.3 to about 8 weight percent, more preferably about 1.3 to about 6 weight percent, even more preferably about 1.3 to about 6 weight percent, approximately 5% by weight of a plurality of nonionic emulsifiers comprising:

(i) one or more ethoxylated fatty acids, for example, adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, having 9 to 100 oxyethylene groups;

(ii) one or more nonionic emulsifiers having a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) of about 9 to about 12, for example, selected from: (1) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylenated alkyl glycerides and polyoxyalkylenated fatty ethers; (2) mixed esters of fatty acid or fatty alcohol, carboxylic acid and glycerol; (3) fatty acid esters of sugars and fatty alcohol ethers of sugars; (4) sorbitan fatty esters and oxyalkylenated sorbitan fatty esters; and their mixtures;

(iii) optionally, one or more glyceryl esters, for example, glyceryl behenate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl lanolate, glyceryl laurate, myristate glyceryl palmitate, glyceryl lactate palmitate, glyceryl sesquioleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl laurate, or a mixture thereof. In at least one case, the glyceryl ester includes glyceryl stearate, glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof;

(iv) optionally, one or more additional nonionic emulsifiers;

(c) about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 6% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 5% by weight of one or more fatty alcohols, e.g. fatty alcohols chosen from fatty alcohols containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular C _14-24 alcohols, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol , myristic or myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, and mixtures thereof;

(d) about 1 to about 20% by weight, preferably about 5 to about 18% by weight, more preferably about 5 to about 15% by weight of one or more fatty compounds, for example, selected from esters fatty (e.g., isononanoate, diisopropyl sebacate), polyolefins (petrolatum), waxes, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene, mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, oil plant and/or vegetable oil (e.g., soybean oil), hydrocarbon-based oils (e.g., isohexadecane), silicone oils, and a mixture thereof;

(e) about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 3% by weight. % of one or more thickening polymers, preferably one or more taurate copolymers, in particular, one or more taurate copolymers chosen from acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer sodium, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, and a mixture thereof; And

(f) about 55 to about 85% by weight, preferably about 60 to about 80% by weight, more preferably about 65 to about 75% by weight of water;

(g) optionally, one or more water-soluble solvents, for example, one or more water-soluble solvents selected from glycerin, mono-alcohols (e.g., C _1-5 mono-alcohols) , organic solvents, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols (for example, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, etc.), and a mixture thereof, preferably glycerin, one or more monoalcohols chosen from ethanol, isopropanol and t-butyl alcohol, and one or more glycols chosen from propylene glycol, butylene glycol and pentylene glycol, where, if present, the quantity of the solvent(s) soluble in water is about 1 to about 20 weight percent, preferably about 5 to about 18 weight percent, more preferably about 5 to about 15 weight percent;

(h) optionally, one or more miscellaneous ingredients, for example, one or more miscellaneous ingredients selected from various emulsifiers/surfactants other than the nonionic emulsifiers of the plurality of nonionic emulsifiers of (b), preservatives, perfumes, color correctors pH, salts, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts, UV filtration agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and/or isolates, hydrotropes, pearling agents, fillers, colorants, matting agents, other skin active agents, agents depigmentants, anti-wrinkle agents, where, if present, the miscellaneous ingredient(s) comprise about 0.01 to about 0.1 to about 0.1% to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 8 % by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 8% by weight of the cosmetic composition;

wherein the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In certain other embodiments, the plurality of nonionic emulsifiers (b) may include or consist of:

1. about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, more preferably about 0.2 to about 2% by weight of one or more ethoxylated fatty acids, for example, adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, having from 9 to 100 oxyethylene groups;
2. about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, more preferably about 0.2 to about 2% by weight of one or more nonionic emulsifiers having a hydrophilic balance -lipophilic (HLB) from about 9 to about 12, for example, chosen from: (1) polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkyl glycerides and polyoxyalkylenated fatty ethers; (2) mixed esters of fatty acid or fatty alcohol, carboxylic acid and glycerol; (3) fatty acid esters of sugars and fatty alcohol ethers of sugars; (4) sorbitan fatty esters and oxyalkylenated sorbitan fatty esters; and their mixtures;
3. optionally from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, more preferably from about 0.2 to about 2% by weight of one or several glyceryl esters, e.g., glyceryl behenate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl palmitate lactate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl laurate, or a mixture thereof, preferably chosen from glyceryl stearate, glyceryl ricinoleate and mixtures thereof;
4. optionally, one or more additional nonionic emulsifiers, where if present, the additional nonionic emulsifier(s) may be in an amount of about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.01 at approximately 3% by weight,

where all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition (not the total weight of the plurality of nonionic surfactants).

In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition comprises or consists of:

(a) about 0.05 to about 6% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 3% by weight of retinol;

(b) about 1 to about 8 weight percent, preferably about 1.3 to about 8 weight percent, more preferably about 1.3 to about 6 weight percent, even more preferably about 1.3 to about 6 weight percent, approximately 5% by weight of a plurality of nonionic emulsifiers comprising:

(ii) about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, more preferably about 0.2 to about 2% by weight of one or more ethoxylated fatty acids, for example, adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, having from 9 to 100 oxyethylene groups;

(ii) about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, more preferably about 0.2 to about 2% by weight of one or more nonionic emulsifiers having a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) of about 9 to about 12, for example, selected from: (1) polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkylglycerides and polyoxyalkylenated fatty ethers; (2) mixed esters of fatty acid or fatty alcohol, carboxylic acid and glycerol; (3) fatty acid esters of sugars and fatty alcohol ethers of sugars; (4) sorbitan fatty esters and oxyalkylenated sorbitan fatty esters; and mixtures thereof, preferably at least one of one or more nonionic emulsifiers having a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) of about 9 to about 12 is selected from alkyl polyglucosides (e.g., C _12-20 alkyl glucoside ), polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-2 polyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3 laurate, polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate, polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate, polyglyceryl-3-oleate, polyglyceryl-3, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof;

(iii) optionally from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, more preferably from about 0.2 to about 2% by weight d one or more glyceryl esters, for example, glyceryl behenate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl palmitate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl laurate, or a mixture thereof, preferably chosen from glyceryl stearate, glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof;

(iv) optionally, one or more additional nonionic emulsifiers, wherein, if present, the additional nonionic emulsifier(s) may be present in an amount of from about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, preferably from about 0.01 to about 3% by weight;

(c) about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 6% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 5% by weight. (c) from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 6% by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 5% by weight of one or more fatty alcohols, for example, fatty alcohols chosen from fatty alcohols containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular, C _14-24 alcohols, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristic or myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, and mixtures thereof;

(d) about 1 to about 20% by weight, preferably about 5 to about 18% by weight, more preferably about 5 to about 15% by weight of one or more fatty compounds, for example, selected from esters fatty (e.g., isononyl isononanoate), polyolefins (petrolatum), waxes, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene, mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, plant oil and/or or vegetable oil (e.g., soybean oil), hydrocarbon-based oils (e.g., isohexadecane), silicone oils, and a mixture thereof;

(e) about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 3% by weight of one or more thickening polymers, wherein at at least one of the one or more thickening polymers is a taurate copolymer chosen from acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, sodium/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, and a mixture thereof; And

(f) about 55 to about 85% by weight, preferably about 60 to about 80% by weight, more preferably about 65 to about 75% by weight water;

(e) optionally, one or more water-soluble solvents, for example, one or more water-soluble solvents selected from glycerin, mono-alcohols (e.g., C _1-5 mono-alcohols) , organic solvents, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols (for example, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, etc.), and a mixture thereof, preferably glycerin, one or more monoalcohols chosen from ethanol, isopropanol and t-butyl alcohol, and one or more glycols chosen from propylene glycol, butylene glycol and pentylene glycol, where, if present, the quantity of the solvent(s) soluble in water is preferably about 1 to about 20 weight percent, preferably about 5 to about 18 weight percent, more preferably about 5 to about 15 weight percent;

(h) optionally, one or more miscellaneous ingredients, for example, one or more miscellaneous ingredients selected from various emulsifiers/surfactants other than the nonionic emulsifiers of the plurality of nonionic emulsifiers of (b), preservatives, perfumes, color correctors pH, salts, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts, UV filtration agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and/or isolates, hydrotropes, pearling agents, fillers, colorants, matting agents, other skin active agents, agents depigmentants, anti-wrinkle agents, where, if present, the miscellaneous ingredient(s) comprise about 0.01 to about 0.1 to about 0.1% to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 8 % by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 8% by weight of the cosmetic composition;

wherein the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The cosmetic compositions are stable, and the retinol is preserved. With regard to physical stability, in certain embodiments, the cosmetic compositions do not visually dephase or form visibly observable particles for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks of storage at 4°C, 25°C, 37°C and/or 45°C.

In another embodiment, the cosmetic compositions do not visually phase shift or form visibly observable particles during at least 10 freeze-thaw test cycles, the freeze-thaw test comprising placing the cosmetic composition in a stability chamber and subjecting it to a temperature fluctuation at 12 hour intervals, for a first interval of 12 hours at -20°C followed by a second interval of 12 hours at 25°C.

In another embodiment, the viscosity of the cosmetic compositions does not change by more than 20%, 15%, 10% or 5%, for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks of storage at 4°C, 25°C, 37°C and/or 45°C.

With regard to the chemical stability of retinol, in various embodiments, at least 70%, 75%, 80%, 85%, 90% or 95% of the retinol is retained at 8 weeks when the cosmetic composition is incorporated into a container sealed in polyethylene terephthalate glycol (PETG) and stored at 25°C and/or 45°C.

In general, the cosmetic compositions preferably have a viscosity of about 10,000 to about 200,000 Pa.s at 25°C, and a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 at 25°C. However, the cosmetic compositions may have a viscosity of about 10,000 to about 200,000 Pa.s, about 10,000 to about 180,000 Pa.s, about 10,000 to about 150,000 Pa.s, approximately 10,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, approximately 15,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, approximately 15,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, approximately 15,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, approximately 15 000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, approximately 20,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, approximately 20,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, approximately 20,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, or approximately 20,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s at 25°C, and a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 at 25°C.

Example 1 (Oil-in-water emulsion with retinol)

Inventive HAS B VS (has) Active RETINOL 0.6 0.6 0.6 (b) (i) Ethoxylated fatty acid PEG-40 STEARATE 0.4 0.4 0.4 (ii) Non-ionic emulsifier
(HLB 9-12) POLYGLYCERYL-3 METHYLGLUCOSE DISTEARATE 0.5 0.5 0.5 ALKYL GLUCOSIDE C _12-20 0.2 0.2 0.2 (iii) Glyceryl ester GLYCERYL STEARATE 0.3 0.3 0.3 (iv) Non-ionic emulsifier POLYSORBATE 60 0.04 0.04 0.04 (vs) Fatty alcohol CETYL ALCOHOL, AND
ALCOHOLS C _14-22 1.1 1.1 1.1 (d) Fatty compounds GLYCINE SOYBEAN OIL (SOYA), 5.4 5.4 5.4 ISONONYL ISONONANOATE, 3 3 3 ISOHEXADECAN, AND/OR
DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE 3 3 3 Silicone oil DIMETHICONOL AND/OR
DIMETHICON 1 0.5 0.5 (e) Thickening polymers HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE AND/OR COPOLYMER
ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE/AMMONIUM VP COPOLYMER 1.4 1.4 1.4 (g) Water soluble solvent T-BUTYL ALCOHOL,
GLYCERIN, AND/OR
PROPYLENE GLYCOL 12 12 12 (h) Various emulsifiers/surfactants, salts, preservatives, pH correctors, perfumes, colorants, antioxidants, chelators, and/or extracts, etc. ≤ 4 ≤ 4 ≤ 4 (f) WATER ~70 ~70 ~55 HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL 15 Physically stable O O O Chemically stable (retinol) O O O

Example 2 (Stability data)

Compositions A and B of Example 1 were subjected to physical stability studies and evaluated visually for phase shift and estimated microscopically for particle formation. The compositions were analyzed during the initial manufacture of the composition (T ₀ ). The compositions were analyzed again after 10 days of freezing-thawing tests. For the freeze-thaw tests, the compositions were placed in a stability chamber and subjected to temperature fluctuations at 12 hour intervals. For 12 hours, the compositions were maintained at -20°C. For the next 12 hours, the compositions were maintained at 25°C. The cycle was repeated 10 times (for 10 days). Separately, the compositions of Example 1 were evaluated after 4 weeks (1 month) of storage at 4°C, 25°C, 37°C, and 45°C and again after 8 weeks (2 months) at 4 °C, 25 °C, 37 °C, and 45 °C and assessed visually for phase shift and assessed microscopically for particle formation.

The inventive compositions were judged to be stable (“O”) (yes) because they did not visually shift out of phase and did not form particles.

Chemical stability was also evaluated, in particular, the chemical stability of retinol in the cosmetic composition (resistance to degradation). The compositions of Example 1 were added individually to sealed polyethylene terephthalate glycol (PETG) cartridges and stored at 25°C and 45°C and the amount of remaining retinol was determined at 8 weeks. The quantity of retinol was determined by HPLC coupled with UV-Vis. A calibration curve was prepared to quantify the area under the curve for each sample.

% retinol at 8 weeks 25°C 45°C Composition A 77% 89% Composition B 81% 78%

E oil-in-water mulsions ’ water with Hydroxypropyl T e trahydropyrantriol & optionally 4-T-Butylcyclohexanol

In one embodiment, cosmetic compositions in the form of oil-in-water emulsions include hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol and, optionally, 4-T-butylcyclohexanol. The amount of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol in cosmetic compositions varies but, in some embodiments, ranges from about 10% by weight to about 40% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. In other embodiments, the amount of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol in the composition is from about 10 weight percent to about 35 weight percent, from about 10 to about 30 weight percent, from about 10 to about 25 % by weight, from about 10 to about 20% by weight, from about 12 to about 35% by weight, from about 12 to about 30% by weight, from about 12 to about 25% by weight, about 12 to about 20% by weight, about 12 to about 18% by weight, about 14 to about 30% by weight, about 14 to about 25% by weight, about 14 to about 20% by weight, or from about 14 to about 18% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion includes:

(a) hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, preferably in the quantities specified above;

(b) water;

(c) one or more nonionic emulsifiers selected from glyceryl esters having an HLB of about 3 to about 8;

(d) one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 16 to about 18;

(e) one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 9 to about 15;

(f) one or more fatty alcohols;

(g) one or more fatty compounds; And

(h) one or more thickening polymers.

where all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The quantity of water in the cosmetic compositions will vary depending on the quantity of other components in the cosmetic compositions. In general, the amount of water in the composition is about 30 to about 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In some embodiments, the amount of water in the cosmetic composition is between about 30 and about 80 weight percent, about 30 and about 70 weight percent, about 30 and about 60 weight percent, about 30 and about 50 % by weight, about 40 and about 80% by weight, about 40 and about 70% by weight, about 40 and about 60% by weight, about 40 and about 50% by weight, about 50 and about 80% by weight,, about 50 and about 75% by weight, about 50 and about 70% by weight, about 55 and about 85% by weight, about 55 and about 80% by weight, about 55 and about 75% by weight, about 55 and about 70 % by weight, about 60 and about 85% by weight, about 60 and about 80% by weight, about 60 and about 75% by weight, or about 60 and about 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition .

Non-limiting examples of nonionic emulsifiers that are glyceryl esters having an HLB of about 3 to about 8 include glyceryl behenate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl lanolate, laurate glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl palmitate lactate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl distearate, or a mixture thereof. Preferred glyceryl esters include glyceryl stearate, glyceryl ricinoleate, or a mixture thereof.

In various embodiments, the glyceryl ester(s) having an HLB of about 3 to about 8 are selected from glyceryl esters that are solid at a temperature below 30°C.

The total amount of the one or more nonionic emulsifiers that are glyceryl esters having an HLB of about 3 to about 8 may vary. In some embodiments, the total amount of the one or more nonionic emulsifiers that are glyceryl esters having an HLB of about 3 to about 8 is from 0.1 wt.% to about 5 wt.% based on weight. total cosmetic composition. In other embodiments, the amount of nonionic emulsifier selected from one or more glyceryl esters having an HLB of about 3 to about 8 is about 0.1 to about 4 weight percent, about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 2% by weight, from about 0.2% by weight to about 5% by weight, from about 0.2 to about 4% by weight weight, from about 0.2 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.2 to about 2% by weight, about 0.3 to about 5% by weight, about 0.3 to about 4% by weight, about 0.3 to about 3% by weight, about 0.3 to about 2% by weight, about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Non-limiting examples of nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 16 to about 18 include ethoxylated emulsifiers, e.g., ethoxylated fatty acids, ethoxylated sorbitan fatty esters, and mixtures thereof. Ethoxylated fatty acids are particularly preferred. A more exhaustive but non-limiting list of nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of approximately 16 to approximately 18 is provided under the title “Nonionic Emulsifiers Having an HLB of approximately 16 to approximately 18”.

The total amount of the one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 16 to about 18 will vary. However, in some embodiments, the total amount of the one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 16 to about 18 is about 0.1 to about 5 weight percent, based on the total weight of the composition. cosmetic. In other embodiments, the amount of one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 16 to about 18 ranges from about 0.1 to about 4 weight percent, from about 0.1 to about about 3% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 2% by weight, from about 0.2% by weight to about 5% by weight, from about 0.2 to about 4% by weight, about 0.2 to about 3% by weight, about 0.2 to about 2% by weight, about 0.3 to about 5% by weight, about 0.3 to about 4% by weight, about 0.3 about 3% by weight, about 0.3 to about 2% by weight, about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, about 0.5 to about 3% by weight , approximately 0.5 to approximately 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Non-limiting examples of nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 9 to about 15 include alkyl polyglucosides (cetearyl glucoside), polyglycerol-based emulsifiers (polygyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate), sorbitan fatty esters (polysorbate 60), sugar esters or ethers, sugar-based esters or ethers, polyol fatty esters or ethers, glyceryl fatty esters or ethers, their ethoxylates, or mixtures thereof. A more exhaustive but non-limiting list of nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 9 to about 15 is provided under the title "Nonionic Emulsifiers Having an HLB of About 9 to About 15".

The total amount of the one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 9 to about 15 will vary. However, in various embodiments, the amount of the one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 9 to about 15 is about 0.1 to about 5 weight percent, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. . In other embodiments, the one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 9 to about 15 is about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, about 0.1 to about 3% by weight. weight, from about 0.1 to about 2% by weight, from about 0.3 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.3 to about 4% by weight, from about 0.3 to about 2 % by weight, about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, or about 0.5 to about 2% by weight, about 1.0 to about 5% by weight, about 1.0 to about 4% by weight, about 1.0 to about 3% by weight, or about 1.0 to about 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols include fatty alcohols containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristic or myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. A more exhaustive but non-exhaustive list of fatty alcohols is provided under the heading “Fatty alcohols”.

The total amount of the one or more fatty alcohols will vary. However, in various embodiments, the total amount of the one or more fatty alcohols in the cosmetic compositions is between 1% by weight and approximately 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In other embodiments, the total amount of the one or more fatty alcohols in the composition is between about 1 and about 8% by weight, about 1 and about 5% by weight, about 1 and about 4% by weight, approximately 1 and approximately 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Non-limiting examples of fatty compounds include fatty esters (e.g., isononyl isononanoate), polyolefins (petrolatum), waxes, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene, mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, plant and/or vegetable oil (e.g., soybean oil), hydrocarbon-based oils (e.g., isohexadecane), and a mixture thereof. A more exhaustive but non-limiting list of fatty compounds is provided under the heading “Fatty compounds”.

The total amount of the one or more fatty compounds in the cosmetic compositions will vary. However, in certain embodiments, the total quantity of the fatty compound(s) is between approximately 5% by weight and approximately 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In other embodiments, the total amount of the one or more fatty compounds in the cosmetic compositions is about 5 to about 15 weight percent, about 5 to about 12 weight percent, about 6 to about 20 % by weight, from approximately 6 to approximately 15% by weight, from approximately 6 to approximately 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Useful thickening polymers include, among others, taurate copolymers. Non-limiting examples of taurate copolymers include acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, acryloyl dimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer, sodium acrylate/acryloyl dimethyl copolymer sodium taurate, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, and mixtures thereof. A more exhaustive but non-limiting list of thickening polymers is provided under the title “Thickening Polymers.” »

Generally, the quantity of the one or more thickening polymers will vary depending on the type of thickening polymers used; and depending on the desired viscosity of the cosmetic composition. Therefore, in one embodiment, the total amount of the one or more thickening agents is sufficient to obtain the viscosities specified in the present disclosure. However, in various embodiments, the total amount of the thickening polymer(s) may be between about 1 and about 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In various embodiments, the amount of the one or more thickening polymers may range from about 1 to about 6 wt.%, from about 1 to about 5 wt.%, from about 1 to about 3 wt.%, e.g. relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Silicones may optionally be included in the cosmetic compositions but, in some embodiments, the compositions are free or substantially free of silicones. Silicones are synthetic polymers made up of repeating units of elemental siloxane, silicon and oxygen, combined with other elements, most commonly carbon and hydrogen. Thus, silicones are also called polysiloxanes. In some cases, the cosmetic compositions herein are free or essentially free of silicones, such as dimethicones, amodimethicones, dimethiconols, cyclosiloxanes, siloxanes, etc. In other embodiments, the compositions include one or more silicones.

The total amount of the one or more silicones in the cosmetic composition, if present, will vary. However, in some embodiments, the total amount of the one or more silicones is between about 0.01 and about 15% by weight, about 0.01 and about 10% by weight, about 0.01 and about 5% by weight. weight, about 0.01 and about 3% by weight, about 0.01 to about 2% by weight, about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, about 0.1 at approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Cosmetic compositions do not necessarily require or include 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol - it is optional. However, in some embodiments, it is preferable to include 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol. 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol can be in cis, trans or a mixture of cis and trans configurations. Among other things, 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol is useful for reducing skin irritation, for soothing the skin and/or for reducing or alleviating tingling, burning and tension.

The total amount of 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol will vary. However, in certain embodiments, the total amount of 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol in the cosmetic composition is between about 0.1% by weight and about 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In other embodiments, the total amount of 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol is about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, about 0.1 to about 2% by weight, about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, about 0.5 to about 2% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, about 1 to about 4% by weight, about 1 to about 3% by weight, or about 1 to about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In some embodiments, the cosmetic compositions include one or more water-soluble solvents. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include glycerin, mono-alcohols, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols and a mixture thereof. In other embodiments, the water-soluble solvent(s) may be chosen from propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethanol, isopropanol, alcohol t- butyl and a mixture thereof. A more exhaustive but non-limiting list of useful water-soluble solvents is provided under the heading “Water-Soluble Solvents”.

The total amount of the one or more water-soluble solvents will vary. However, in certain embodiments, the total quantity of the water-soluble solvent(s) is between approximately 0.1 and approximately 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In other embodiments, the total amount of one or more water-soluble solvents is about 0.1 to about 20 weight percent, about 0.1 to about 15 weight percent, d 'about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 0.1% by weight to about 1% by weight, about 2 to about 20% by weight, about 2 to about 15% by weight, about 2 to about 10% by weight, about 2 to about 5% by weight, about 5 to about 20% by weight, about 5 to about 15% by weight, or about 5 to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions include one or more various ingredients. Non-limiting examples of miscellaneous ingredients include various emulsifiers/surfactants other than (d) dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers, preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts, UV filter agents, proteins, hydrolysates and/or protein isolates, hydrotropes, pearling agents, fillers, dyes, mattifying agents, other active agents for skin, depigmenting agents, anti-wrinkle agents, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition includes at least one other active agent for the skin, for example, madecassoside. A more exhaustive but non-exhaustive list of various ingredients is provided under the heading “Miscellaneous Ingredients”.

The various ingredients, when present, may be present in an amount between approximately 0.01 and approximately 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The total amount of the one or more miscellaneous ingredients may be from about 0.01 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.01 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, about 1 at about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, or about 1 to about 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the compositions in the form of oil-in-water emulsions include:

(a) about 10 to about 40% by weight of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol;

(b) water;

(c) about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of nonionic emulsifier selected from glyceryl esters having an HLB of about 3 to about 8;

(d) about 0.1 to about 5 weight percent of one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 16 to about 18;

(e) about 0.1 to about 5 weight percent of one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 9 to about 15;

(f) about 1 to about 10% by weight of one or more fatty alcohols;

(g) about 5 to about 20% by weight of one or more fatty compounds; And

(h) one or more thickening polymers;

wherein the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, preferably a gel emulsion, and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

A gel emulsion is an oil-in-water emulsion, in which the water phase is a gel and the oil droplets/particles are dispersed throughout the gel matrix.

In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprises or consists of:

(a) about 10 to about 40% by weight, preferably about 10 to about 20% by weight, more preferably about 12 to about 18% by weight of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol;

(b) about 50 to about 85 weight percent, preferably about 55 to about 80 weight percent, more preferably about 55 to about 75 weight percent water;

(c) from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 4, more preferably from about 0.2 to about 3% by weight of one or more emulsifiers nonionic selected from glyceryl esters having an HLB of about 3 to about 8, for example, glyceryl esters selected from glyceryl behenate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl lanolate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl myristate glyceryl, glyceryl palmitate lactate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl laurate, and a mixture thereof, preferably one or more glyceryl esters selected from glyceryl stearate, glyceryl ricinoleate, and a mixture of these ;

(d) about 0.1 to about 5 weight percent, preferably about 0.1 to about 4, more preferably about 0.2 to about 3 weight percent of one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB d about 16 to about 18, preferably one or more ethoxylated emulsifiers selected from ethoxylated fatty acids, ethoxylated sorbitan fatty esters, and a mixture thereof, preferably one or more ethoxylated fatty acids;

(e) from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, more preferably from about 0.5 to about 4% by weight of a or several nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of approximately 9 to approximately 15, for example, chosen from alkyl polyglucosides (cetearyl glucoside), polyglycerol-based emulsifiers (polygyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate), sorbitan fatty esters ( polysorbate 60), sugar esters or ethers, sugar-based esters or ethers, polyol fatty esters or ethers, glyceryl fatty esters or ethers, their ethoxylates, or mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from esters or sugar ethers and sugar-based esters or ethers;

(f) about 1 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 1 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 6% by weight of one or more fatty alcohols, preferably selected from fatty alcohols comprising from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristic or myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, and mixtures thereof;

(g) about 5 to about 20% by weight, preferably about 5 to about 15% by weight, more preferably about 6 to about 12% by weight of one or more fatty compounds, for example, selected from esters fatty (e.g., isononyl isononanoate), polyolefins (petrolatum), waxes, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene, mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, plant oil and /or vegetable (e.g., soybean oil), hydrocarbon-based oils (e.g., isohexadecane), and a mixture thereof;

(h) one or more thickening polymers, preferably one or more taurate copolymers, in particular, one or more taurate copolymers chosen from acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, and a mixture thereof , the amount of the one or more thickening polymers optionally being about 1 to about 8% by weight, preferably about 1 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 3% by weight ;

(i) optionally, 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol, where, if present, it is preferably in an amount of about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to about 3% by weight;

(j) optionally, one or more water-soluble solvents, for example, one or more water-soluble solvents selected from glycerin, alcohols (e.g., C _1-30 , C _{1- 15} , C _1-10 or C _1-4 ), organic solvents, polyols (polyhydric alcohols, for example, ethanol, isopropanol, t-butyl alcohol, etc.), and a mixture of these, preferably one or more monoalcohols chosen from ethanol, isopropanol and t-butyl alcohol, and one or more glycols chosen from propylene glycol, butylene glycol and pentylene glycol, where, s If present, the water-soluble solvent(s) comprise from about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 15 % by weight of the cosmetic composition;

(k) optionally, one or more silicones, for example, dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone, and amodimethicone, preferably dimethicone, where if present, the silicone(s) may be in an amount d about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 0.1 to about 3% by weight;

(l) optionally, one or more miscellaneous ingredients, for example, one or more miscellaneous ingredients selected from various emulsifiers/surfactants, preservatives, fragrances, pH correctors, salts, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts, filtration agents UV, proteins, protein hydrolysates and/or isolates, hydrotropes, beading agents, fillers, dyes, mattifying agents, other active agents for the skin, depigmenting agents, anti-wrinkle agents, where, if present, the miscellaneous ingredients include about 0.01 to about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 8% by weight of the cosmetic composition.

wherein the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion, preferably a gel emulsion, and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In other embodiments, the cosmetic compositions in the form of oil-in-water emulsions comprise or consist of:

(a) about 10 to about 40% by weight, preferably about 10 to about 20% by weight, more preferably about 12 to about 18% by weight of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol;

(b) about 50 to about 85 weight percent, preferably about 55 to about 80 weight percent, more preferably about 55 to about 75 weight percent water;

(c) about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 4, more preferably about 0.2 to about 3% by weight of one or more nonionic emulsifiers selected from esters glyceryl having an HLB of about 3 to about 8, in particular chosen from glyceryl stearate, glyceryl ricinoleate, and a mixture thereof, preferably glyceryl stearate;

(d) about 0.1 to about 5 weight percent, preferably about 0.1 to about 4, more preferably about 0.2 to about 3 weight percent of one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB d about 16 to about 18 selected from ethoxylated fatty acids, ethoxylated sorbitan fatty esters, and a mixture thereof, preferably one or more ethoxylated fatty acids;

(e) about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 4% by weight of one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of approximately 9 to approximately 15, for example, chosen from alkyl polyglucosides (cetearyl glucoside), polyglycerol-based emulsifiers (polygyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate), sorbitan fatty esters (polysorbate 60), esters or sugar ethers, sugar-based esters or ethers, polyol fatty esters or ethers, glyceryl fatty esters or ethers, their ethoxylates, or mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from sugar esters or ethers and esters or sugar-based ethers;

(f) from about 1 to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 1 to about 8% by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 6% by weight of one or more fatty alcohols comprising 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof;

(g) about 5 to about 20% by weight, preferably about 5 to about 15% by weight, more preferably about 6 to about 12% by weight of one or more fatty compounds, for example, selected from esters fatty (e.g., isononyl isononanoate), polyolefins (petrolatum), waxes, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene, mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, plant oil and/or or vegetable (e.g., soybean oil), hydrocarbon-based oils (e.g., isohexadecane), and a mixture thereof;

(h) from about 1 to about 8% by weight, preferably from about 1 to about 5% by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 3% by weight of one or more taurate copolymers, in particular, one or more taurate copolymers chosen from acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer sodium, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, and a mixture thereof, preferably chosen from hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, and a mixture of these ;

(i) optionally, 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol, where if present, it is preferably in an amount of about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 4 % by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to about 3% by weight;

(j) from about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 5% by weight of one or more water-soluble solvents selected from one or more monoalcohols (e.g. ethanol, isopropanol and t-butyl alcohol), one or more glycols (e.g. propylene glycol, butylene glycol and pentylene glycol) , and a mixture of these;

(k) about 0.01 to about 10 weight percent, about 0.1 to about 5 weight percent, more preferably about 0.1 to about 3 weight percent of one or more silicones, e.g., dimethicone , dimethiconol, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone, and amodimethicone, preferably dimethicone;

(l) optionally, one or more miscellaneous ingredients, for example, one or more miscellaneous ingredients selected from various emulsifiers/surfactants, preservatives, fragrances, pH correctors, salts, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts, filtration agents UV, proteins, protein hydrolysates and/or isolates, hydrotropes, pearling agents, fillers, colorants, mattifying agents, other active agents for the skin, depigmenting agents, anti-wrinkle agents, where, if present, the miscellaneous ingredients include about 0.01 to about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 8% by weight of the cosmetic composition;

wherein the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion, preferably a gel emulsion, and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The composition preferably has a pH of about 4 to about 8, preferably about 5 to about 8, more preferably about 4.5 to about 7.5.

The cosmetic compositions are stable. For example, in one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions do not visually phase shift or form visibly observable particles for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks, and/or 8 weeks when stored at 4°C. °C, 37°C, and/or 45°C.

In another embodiment, the cosmetic compositions do not visually phase shift or form visibly observable particles during at least 10 freeze-thaw test cycles, the freeze-thaw test comprising placement of the cosmetic composition in a stability chamber and subjecting it to a temperature fluctuation at 12 hour intervals, for a first interval of 12 hours at -20°C followed by a second interval of 12 hours at 25°C.

In one embodiment, the viscosity of the cosmetic compositions does not change by more than 20%, 15%, 10% or 5%, for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks of storage at 4°C. °C, 37°C and/or 45°C.

In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition preferably has a viscosity of about 5,000 to about 200,000 Pa.s at 25°C, and a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 at 25°C. However, the cosmetic compositions may have a viscosity of about 10,000 to about 200,000 Pa.s, about 10,000 to about 180,000 Pa.s, about 10,000 to about 150,000 Pa.s, approximately 10,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, approximately 15,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, approximately 15,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, approximately 15,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, approximately 15 000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, approximately 20,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, approximately 20,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, approximately 20,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, or approximately 20,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s at 25°C, and a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 at 25°C.

Example 3

( E oil-in-water mulsion ’ water with ’ h ydroxypropyl you trahydropyrantriol and 4 T b utylcyclohexanol)

HAS B VS D (has) Active HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL 15 15 15 15 (b) Water WATER 63.5 63.9 63.5 63.9 (vs) Glyceryl ester GLYCERYL STEARATE
(HLB 3.8±1) 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 (d) High HLB emulsifier PEG-40 STEARATE
(HLB 17.5) 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 (e) Medium HLB emulsifier POLYGLYCERYL-3 METHYLGLUCOSE DISTEARATE
(HLB-12) 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE
(HLB 11±1) 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 POLYSORBATE 60
(HLB 14.9±1) 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 (f) Fatty alcohol CETYL ALCOHOL 0.3 0.3 0.8 0.8 BEHENYL ALCOHOL 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 0.8 0.8 0.3 0.3 (g) Fatty compound SQUALANE, ISONONYL ISONONANOATE, AND SOYBEAN OIL 9 9 9 (h) Thickening polymers
HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE/SODIUM ACRYLOYL DIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL AMMONIUM TAURATE /VP COPOLYMER 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 POLYALKYL ACRYLATE C _10-30 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 (i) Active 4-T-BUTYLCYCLOHEXANOL 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 (j) Water soluble solvent PROPYLENE GLYCOL, PENTYLENE GLYCOL AND T-BUTYL ALCOHOL 4.2 4.2 4.2 4.2 (k) Silicone DIMETHICONE 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 (L) Miscellaneous
Emulsifiers SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE
(HLB 4.7) 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 HYDROGENATED LECITHIN 0.3 0.3 Other miscellaneous emulsifiers/surfactants, salts, preservatives, pH correctors, fragrances, colorants, chelators, extracts, fillers, absorbents, additional skin actives, etc. ≤ 4 ≤ 4 ≤ 4 ≤ 4 Stability Yes Yes Yes Yes

Example 4 (Comparative compositions)

C-1 C-2 C-3 (has) Active HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL 15 15 15 (b) Water WATER 69.5 61.5 55.8 (vs) Glyceryl ester GLYCERYL STEARATE (HLB = 3.8) 1.6 (d) High HLB STEARETH-100 (HLB = 18.8) 0.4 (e) Medium HLB emulsifiers ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE (HLB ~10) ALKYL GLUCOSIDE IN C _12-20 (HLB = 10.3) 0.4 CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE (HLB = 11) 0.1 POLYSORBATE 80 (HLB = 15) 0.2 POLYSORBATE 60 (HLB = 14.9) 0.04 (f) Fatty alcohols ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL, BEHENYL ALCOHOL, CETEARYL ALCOHOL, CETYL ALCOHOL AND/OR C _14-22 ALCOHOLS 3.2 1.1 4.1 (g) Fatty compounds SQUALANE. SOYBEAN OIL, ISONONYL ISONONANOATE, ISOHEXADECAN, DICAPRYLYL ETHER, AND/OR CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE. 2 9.5 4
(h) Thickening polymers SODIUM ACRYLAMIDE/ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER 1 HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER 0.7 ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE/AMMONIUM VP COPOLYMER 1.2 SODIUM POLYACRYLATE 1.3 XANTHAN GUM 0.3 CROSS-LINKED POLYACRYLATE POLYMER-6 0.8 ALUMINUM STARCH OCTENYLSUCCINATE 1 1 (i) Active 4-T-BUTYLCYCLOHEXANOL 1.1 1.1 1.1 (j) Water soluble solvent T-BUTYL ALCOHOL, CAPRYLYL GLYCOL, PENTYLENE GLYCOL AND/OR PROPYLENE GLYCOL 4.5 4.2 13.5 (k) Silicone DIMETHICONE 0.5 (L) Miscellaneous
Emulsifiers SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE (HLB = 4.7) 0.04 0.3 SORBITAN OLEATE (HLB = 4.3) 0.1 ETHYLENE DICOCAMIDE PEG-15 DISODIUM DISULFATE 0.5 Other miscellaneous emulsifiers/surfactants, salts, preservatives, pH correctors, fragrances, colorants, chelators, extracts, fillers, absorbents and/or additional skin actives, etc. ≤ 4 ≤ 4 ≤ 4 Stability NO NO NO

Example 5

The compositions of Example 3 and Example 4 were subjected to stability studies and evaluated visually for phase shift and evaluated microscopically for particle formation. The compositions were analyzed during the initial manufacture of the composition (T0). The compositions were analyzed again after 10 days of freezing-thawing tests. For the freeze-thaw test, the compositions were placed in a stability chamber and subjected to temperature fluctuations at 12 hour intervals. For 12 hours, the compositions were maintained at -20°C. For the next 12 hours, the compositions were maintained at 25°C. The cycle was repeated 10 times (for 10 days). Separately, the compositions of Example 1 were evaluated after 4 weeks (1 month) of storage at 4°C, 25°C, 37°C, and 45°C and again after 8 weeks (2 months) at 4 °C, 25 °C, 37 °C, and 45 °C and assessed visually for phase shift and assessed microscopically for particle formation.

The inventive compositions were judged to be stable (“O”) (yes) because they did not visually shift out of phase and did not form particles. The comparative compositions (C-1 to C-3) were judged to be non-stable (“N”) (no) because they shifted out of phase and/or formed particles. The data show the importance of one or more nonionic emulsifiers selected from glyceryl esters having an HLB of about 3 to about 8 (c) and the importance of one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 16 to about 18 (d). If one of these types of emulsifiers is not included, the resulting composition lacks stability, i.e., exhibits phase shift and particle formation, as shown by the comparative compositions data (C-1, C-2 and C-3).

Oil-in-oil emulsions ’ water comprising trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine

In some embodiments, cosmetic compositions in the form of oil-in-water emulsions include acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine. The amount of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine varies but, in various embodiments, is between about 1 and about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In various embodiments, the amount of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine is between about 1.5 and about 5 weight percent, about 2 and about 5 weight percent, about 2.5 and about 5 weight percent, about 1 and about 4% by weight, about 1.5 and about 4% by weight, about 2 and about 4% by weight, about 2.5 and about 4% by weight, or about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic compositions. In another embodiment, the total amount of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine is about 2.6 to about 3.4% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In certain embodiments, the cosmetic compositions include:

(a) acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine, preferably in the quantities specified above;

(b) hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol;

(c) two or more taurate copolymers;

(d) one or more fatty alcohols;

(e) one or more fatty compounds;

(f) one or more nonionic emulsifiers; And

(g) water;

in which all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The amount of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol in cosmetic compositions will vary, but in some embodiments it ranges from about 10% by weight to about 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In other embodiments, the amount of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol in the composition is from about 10 weight percent to about 35 weight percent, from about 10 to about 30 weight percent, from about 10 to about 25 % by weight, from about 10 to about 20% by weight, from about 12 to about 35% by weight, from about 12 to about 30% by weight, from about 12 to about 25% by weight, about 12 to about 20% by weight, about 12 to about 18% by weight, about 14 to about 30% by weight, about 14 to about 25% by weight, about 14 to about 20% by weight, or from about 14 to about 18% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Non-limiting examples of taurate copolymers include acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, acryloyl dimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer, sodium acrylate/acryloyl dimethyl copolymer sodium taurate, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, and a mixture thereof.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, at least one of the two or more taurate copolymers is chosen from taurate copolymers which function as polymeric emulsifiers, in particular, chosen from hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, crosslinked copolymer of acryloyldimethyl ammonium taurate/steareth-25 methacrylate, crosslinked copolymer of acryloyldimethyl ammonium taurate/beheneth-25 methacrylate, and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of taurate copolymers include acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, and a mixture thereof.

The total amount of the two or more taurate copolymers will vary, but in some embodiments, the total amount of the two or more taurate copolymers ranges from about 2 weight percent to about 15 weight percent based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In other embodiments, the amount of the two or more taurate copolymers in the cosmetic composition is about 2 to about 12 wt.%, about 2 to about 10 wt.%, about 2 to about 8% by weight, about 2 to about 5% by weight, about 2 to about 4% by weight, about 2 to about 3% by weight, about 2.5 to about 15% by weight, about 2, 5 to about 12% by weight, about 2.5 to about 10% by weight, about 2.5 to about 8% by weight, about 2.5 to about 5% by weight, or about 2.5 to about 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In a preferred embodiment, each of the individual taurate copolymers included in the two or more taurate copolymers of the cosmetic compositions is in a minimum amount of at least 0.7% by weight, preferably at least 0.8% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In other words, none of the individual taurate copolymers are present in an amount less than 0.7% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Therefore, in some embodiments, the total amount of the two or more taurate copolymers in the cosmetic composition is from about 2 wt% to about 15 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, provided that each individual taurate copolymer of the two or more taurate copolymers is present in an amount of at least 0.7% by weight, more preferably at least 0.8% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In other embodiments, the amount of the two or more taurate copolymers in the cosmetic composition is about 2 to about 12 wt.%, about 2 to about 10 wt.%, about 2 to about 8% by weight, about 2 to about 5% by weight, about 2 to about 4% by weight, about 2 to about 3% by weight, about 2.5 to about 15% by weight , from about 2.5 to about 12% by weight, from about 2.5 to about 10% by weight, from about 2.5 to about 8% by weight, from about 2.5 to about 5% by weight, or about 2.5 to about 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, provided that each individual taurate copolymer of the two or more taurate copolymers is present in an amount of at at least 0.7% by weight, preferably at least 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In some embodiments, it is preferable that the cosmetic composition includes three or more taurate copolymers. In particular, it is useful to include three or more taurate copolymers selected from sodium acrylamide/acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, sodium/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, and a mixture thereof. More preferably, it is useful to use three or more taurate copolymers including ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, and hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer. In a particularly preferred embodiment, these three taurate copolymers are included in the following quantities, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic compositions:

- 0.1 to 4% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.6 to 2% by weight of acryloyldimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer,

- 0.7 to 4% by weight, preferably 0.7 to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.8 to 2% by weight of sodium acrylamide/acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, and

- 0.1 to approximately 4% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.6 to 2% by weight of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer.

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises:

- 0.6 to 2% by weight of acryloyldimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer,

- 0.8 to 2% by weight of sodium acrylamide/acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, and

- 0.6 to 2% by weight of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer.

Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols include those chosen from C ₆ -C ₂₀ fatty alcohols, for example decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, eicosyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, 2-dodecylhexadecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1-octadecanol, 2 -tetradecyl-1-eicosanol, 2-hexadecyl-1-octadecanol, 2-hexadecyl-1-eicosanol, octyldodecanol, 2-octyl-1-dodecanol, and a mixture thereof. A more exhaustive, but not exhaustive, list of useful fatty alcohols is included under the heading "Fatty Alcohols."

The total amount of the one or more fatty alcohols will vary, but in some embodiments is between about 0.5% by weight and about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In other embodiments, the amount of one or more fatty alcohols is about 0.5 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 5 wt.%, 0.5 to about 4% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, from about 1 to about 10% by weight, from about 1 to about 8% by weight, from about 1 to about 5% by weight , from about 1 to about 4% by weight, from about 1% by weight to about 3% by weight, from about 1.5 to about 10% by weight, from about 1.5 to about 8% by weight weight, from about 1.5 to about 5% by weight, about 1.5 to about 4% by weight, from about 1.5 to about 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Non-limiting examples of fatty compounds include fatty esters (such as isononyl isononanoate), polyolefins (such as petrolatum), waxes, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene , mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, plant and/or vegetable oil, hydrocarbon-based oils (such as isohexadecane), and a mixture thereof. A more exhaustive but non-limiting list of fatty compounds is included under the heading “Fatty Compounds”.

The amount of the one or more fatty compounds in the cosmetic compositions will vary, but in some embodiments is between about 2% by weight and about 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In other embodiments, the total amount of one or more fatty compounds is about 2 to about 20 weight percent, about 2 to about 15 weight percent, about 2 to about 12 weight percent. by weight, from about 3 to about 20% by weight, from about 3 to about 15 about 3 to about 20% by weight, about 3 to about 15% by weight, about 2 to about 12% by weight, about 3 to about 20% by weight, about 3 to about 15% by weight, about 3 to about 12% by weight, about 5 to about 20% by weight, about 5 to about 15% by weight, about 5 to about 12% by weight weight, approximately 6 to approximately 15% by weight, or approximately 6 to approximately 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Non-limiting examples of nonionic emulsifiers include alkanolamides, sorbitan fatty esters (such as sorbitan isostearate and sorbitan oleate), ethoxylated sorbitan fatty esters (such as polysorbate 80), esters polyol, glyceryl esters, polyglucosides (such as cetaryl glucoside), glycerol ethers, oxyethylenated ethers, oxypropylenated ethers and ethylene glycol polymers. A more exhaustive but non-limiting list of nonionic emulsifiers is included under the heading “Nonionic Emulsifiers”.

The total amount of the one or more nonionic emulsifiers in the cosmetic compositions varies but, in some embodiments, ranges from about 0.1% by weight to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. . In other embodiments, the total amount of the one or more nonionic emulsifiers in the cosmetic composition is about 0.1 to about 8 weight percent, about 0.1 to about 5 weight percent, d 'about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, about 0.2 to about 10% by weight, about 0.2 to about 8% by weight, about 0.2 to about 5% by weight , from about 0.2 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.3 to about 10% by weight, from about 0.3 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.3 to about 5% by weight, or from about 0.3 to about 3% by weight, 0.5 to about 10% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, or from about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, 1.0 to about 10% by weight, from about 1.0 to about 8% by weight, from about 1.0 to about 5% by weight, or from about 1.0 to about 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The quantity of water in the cosmetic compositions will vary depending on the quantity of other components in the cosmetic compositions. However, in some embodiments, the amount of water is between about 35% by weight and about 85% by weight. In other embodiments, the amount of water is between about 35 and about 80% by weight, about 35 and about 75% by weight, about 35 and about 70% by weight, about 40 and about 85% by weight. weight, about 40 and about 80% by weight, about 40 and about 75% by weight, about 40 and about 70% by weight. % by weight, about 40 to about 70% by weight, about 50 to about 85% by weight, about 50 to about 80% by weight, about 50 to about 75% by weight, about 50 to about 70% by weight, per relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include glycerin, monoalcohols, polyols (such as polyhydric alcohols), glycols, and a mixture thereof. A more exhaustive but non-limiting list of water-soluble solvents is included under the heading “Water-Soluble Solvents”.

The total amount of the water-soluble solvent(s) will vary, but in some embodiments is between about 0.1 and about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In other embodiments, the total amount of the water-soluble solvent(s) is between about 0.1 and about 15 weight percent, about 0.1 and about 10 weight percent, about 0.5 and about 20% by weight, about 0.5 and about 15% by weight, about 0.5 and about 10% by weight, about 1 and about 20% by weight, about 1 and about 15% by weight, about 1 and about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In some embodiments, the cosmetic compositions may optionally include one or more other thickening polymers, which are different from the two or more taurate copolymers (c). A non-limiting list of useful thickening polymers is included under the heading "Thickening Polymers".

The amount of the thickening polymer(s), when present, will vary, but in some embodiments is between about 0.01 and about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In other embodiments, the total amount of the thickening polymer(s) is about 0.01 to about 4 weight percent, about 0.01 to about 3 weight percent, about 0.1 to about about 5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, about 0, 5 to about 4% by weight, or from about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Non-limiting examples of active agents for the skin include madecassoside, a moisturizing agent, a depigmenting agent, an anti-wrinkle agent, an active agent for oily skin, an antioxidant, a flavonoid, a vitamin, a skin whitening agent. skin, and a mixture thereof. A more exhaustive list of useful miscellaneous ingredients is included under the heading “Miscellaneous Ingredients”.

The miscellaneous ingredients may be included in the cosmetic composition, for example, in an amount of about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. About 0.1 to about 8% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight , approximately 1 to approximately 5% by weight, or approximately 1 to approximately 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Silicones may optionally be included in the cosmetic compositions but preferably the compositions are free or essentially free of silicones. Silicones are synthetic polymers made up of repeating units of elemental siloxane, silicon and oxygen, combined with other elements, most commonly carbon and hydrogen. Thus, silicones are also called polysiloxanes. In some cases, the cosmetic compositions herein may be free or essentially free of dimethicones, amodimethicones, dimethiconols, cyclosiloxanes, siloxanes, etc.

In certain embodiments, compositions in the form of oil-in-water emulsions include:

(a) about 1 to about 5% by weight of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine;

(b) about 10 to about 40 weight percent hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol;

(c) about 2 to about 15 weight percent of two or more taurate copolymers;

(d) about 0.5 to about 10% by weight of one or more fatty alcohols;

(e) about 5 to about 25% by weight of one or more fatty compounds;

(f) about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of one or more nonionic emulsifiers; And

(g) water;

wherein the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion, preferably a gel emulsion, and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In certain embodiments, the cosmetic compositions in the form of oil-in-water emulsions comprise or consist of:

(a) about 1 to about 5 weight percent, preferably about 2 to about 4 weight percent, more preferably about 2 to about 4 weight percent of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine;

(b) from about 10 to about 40% by weight, preferably from about 10 to about 20% by weight, and more preferably from about 12 to about 18% by weight of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol;

(c) about 2 to about 15 weight percent, preferably about 2 to about 8 weight percent, more preferably about 2 to about 5 weight percent of two or more, preferably three copolymers of taurate or more, for example, chosen from acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer , hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, and a mixture thereof, preferably all three of acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer ammonium/VP;

(d) about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 5% by weight of one or more fatty alcohols, preferably having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably chosen from decyl alcohol, undecyl, dodecyl, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and a mixture thereof;

(e) about 5 to about 25% by weight, preferably about 5 to about 20% by weight, more preferably about 5 to about 15% by weight of one or more fatty compounds, e.g., one or more compounds fats chosen from fatty esters (such as isononyl isononanoate), polyolefins (such as petrolatum), waxes, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene, mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, a plant and/or vegetable oil, hydrocarbon-based oils (such as isohexadecane), and a mixture thereof, more preferably chosen from isohexadecane, isononyl isononanoate , squalene, soybean oil, and a mixture thereof;

(f) from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 5, more preferably from about 0.1 to about 3% by weight of one or more nonionic emulsifiers, for example chosen from alkanolamides, sorbitan fatty esters (for example sorbitan isostearate and sorbitan oleate), ethoxylated sorbitan fatty esters (for example polysorbate-80), polypropylene, polypropylene, polypropylene, polypropylene, polypropylene, polypropylene, polypropylene and polypropylene, polysorbate-80), polyol esters, glyceryl esters, polyglucosides (for example, cetearyl glucoside), ethers of glycerol, oxyethylenated ethers, oxypropylenated ethers and ethylene glycol polymers, preferably chosen from polysorbate 80, cetearyl glucoside, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan oleate and mixtures thereof;

(g) about 40 to about 80% by weight, preferably about 40 to about 70% by weight, more preferably about 45 to about 65% by weight water;

(h) optionally, one or more water-soluble solvents, for example, one or more water-soluble solvents selected from glycerin, alcohols (e.g., C _1-30 , C _{1- 15} , C _1-10 or C _1-4 ), organic solvents, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols (for example, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, etc.), and a mixture of those -here, preferably one or more glycols, in particular propylene glycol, where, if present, the water-soluble solvent(s) represent approximately 0.1 to approximately 20% by weight, preferably approximately 0, 1 to about 15% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 15% by weight of the cosmetic composition;

(i) optionally, one or more thickening polymers which are different from the taurate copolymer(s) of (c), for example, selected from polyacrylate, polymethacrylate, polyethylacrylate, polyacrylamide, poly(C-alkyl acrylate _10-30 ), and mixtures thereof, preferably poly(C _10-30 alkyl acrylate), where, if present, the thickening polymer(s) represent about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.05 to about 4% by weight, more preferably about 0.1 to about 3% by weight of the cosmetic composition;

(j) optionally, one or more miscellaneous ingredients, for example, one or more miscellaneous ingredients selected from various emulsifiers/surfactants other than the non-ionic emulsifiers of (f), preservatives, fragrances, pH correctors, salts, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts, UV filtration agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and/or isolates, hydrotropes, pearling agents, fillers, colorants, agents mattifiers, other active agents for the skin, depigmenting agents, anti-wrinkle agents, preferably in which at least one of the one or more various ingredients is another active agent for the skin such as madecassoside, or if they are present, the one or more miscellaneous ingredients represent about 0.01 to about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 8% by weight. weight of the cosmetic composition;

wherein the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion, preferably a gel emulsion, and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

As noted above, in some embodiments, it is preferable to include three or more taurate copolymers in the cosmetic composition. The three or more taurate copolymers may be an ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, an acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, a hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, preferably in the following amounts, relative to to the total weight of the cosmetic compositions:

- 0.1 to 4% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.6 to 2% by weight of acryloyldimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer,

- 0.7 to 4% by weight, preferably 0.7 to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.8 to 2% by weight of sodium acrylamide/acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, and

- 0.1 to approximately 4% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.6 to 2% by weight of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises:

- 0.6 to 2% by weight of acryloyldimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer,

- 0.8 to 2% by weight of sodium acrylamide/acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, and

- 0.6 to 2% by weight of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer.

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprises or consists of:

(a) about 1 to about 5 weight percent, preferably about 2 to about 4 weight percent, more preferably about 2 to about 4 weight percent of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine;

(b) from about 10 to about 40% by weight, preferably from about 10 to about 20% by weight, and more preferably from about 12 to about 18% by weight of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol;

(c) about 2 to about 15 weight percent, preferably about 2 to about 8 weight percent, more preferably about 2 to about 5 weight percent of two or more, preferably three copolymers of taurate or more, for example, chosen from acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, sodium acrylate/acryloyl copolymer sodium dimethyl taurate, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, and a mixture thereof, preferably acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, and acryloyldimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer;

(d) about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 5% by weight of one or more fatty alcohols having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, for example, one or more fatty alcohols chosen from decyl alcohol, undecyl, dodecyl, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, myric alcohol and a mixture thereof, preferably comprising behenyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol;

(e) about 5 to about 25% by weight, preferably about 5 to about 20% by weight, more preferably about 5 to about 15% by weight of one or more fatty compounds, e.g., one or more compounds fats chosen from fatty esters (such as isononyl isononanoate), polyolefins (such as petrolatum), waxes, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene, mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, a plant and/or vegetable oil, hydrocarbon-based oils (such as isohexadecane), and a mixture thereof, more preferably chosen from isohexadecane, isononyl isononanoate , squalene, soybean oil, and a mixture thereof;

(f) from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 5, more preferably from about 0.1 to about 3% by weight of one or more nonionic emulsifiers, for example, chosen from sorbitan fatty esters (for example, sorbitan isostearate and sorbitan oleate), ethoxylated sorbitan fatty esters (for example, polysorbate-80), esters of polyol, glyceryl esters, polyglucosides (for example, cetearyl glucoside), preferably chosen from polysorbate 80, cetearyl glucoside, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan oleate and mixtures thereof;

(g) about 40 to about 80% by weight, preferably about 40 to about 70% by weight, more preferably about 45 to about 65% by weight water;

(h) from about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 15% by weight of one or more water-soluble solvents, for example, one or more water-soluble solvents chosen from glycerin, alcohols (for example, C _1-30 , C _1-15 , C _1-10 or in C _1-4 ), organic solvents, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols (e.g., propylene glycol, butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, etc.), and a mixture thereof, preferably one or more glycols, preferably propylene glycol;

(i) optionally, one or more thickening polymers which are different from the taurate copolymer(s) of (c), for example, selected from polyacrylate, polymethacrylate, polyethylacrylate, polyacrylamide, poly(C-alkyl acrylate _10-30 ), and mixtures thereof, preferably poly(C _10-30 alkyl acrylate), where, if present, the thickening polymer(s) comprise about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.05 to about 4% by weight, more preferably about 0.1 to about 3% by weight of the cosmetic composition;

(j) from about 0.01 to about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 8% by weight of the cosmetic composition of one or more various ingredients, for example, one or more various ingredients chosen from various emulsifiers/surfactants other than the nonionic emulsifiers of (f), preservatives, perfumes, pH correctors, salts, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts, UV filtration agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and/or isolates, hydrotropes, pearling agents, fillers, colorants, mattifying agents, other active agents for the skin, depigmenting agents, anti-wrinkle agents, preferably where at least one of the one or more various ingredients is another active agent for the skin, which is preferably madecassoside;

wherein the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion, preferably a gel emulsion and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

As noted above, in some cases three or more taurate copolymers may be included in the cosmetic composition. The three or more taurate copolymers may be an ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, an acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, a hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, preferably in the following amounts, relative to to the total weight of the cosmetic compositions:

- 0.1 to 4% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.6 to 2% by weight of acryloyldimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer,

- 0.7 to 4% by weight, preferably 0.7 to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.8 to 2% by weight of sodium acrylamide/acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, and

- 0.1 to approximately 4% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.6 to 2% by weight of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer.

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises:

- 0.6 to 2% by weight of acryloyldimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer,

- 0.8 to 2% by weight of sodium acrylamide/acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, and

- 0.6 to 2% by weight of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer.

The composition preferably has a pH of about 5.5 to about 8, preferably about 5.5 to about 7.5, more preferably about 5.5 to about 7.

The cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure are stable. For example, the cosmetic compositions do not visually phase shift or form visibly observable particles for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks when stored at 4°C, 25°C, 37°C and /or 45°C.

In various embodiments, the cosmetic compositions do not visually phase shift or form visibly observable particles during at least 10 freeze-thaw test cycles, the freeze-thaw test comprising placing the cosmetic composition in a stability chamber and subjecting it to a temperature fluctuation at 12 hour intervals, for a first interval of 12 hours at -20°C followed by a second interval of 12 hours at 25°C.

In various embodiments, the viscosity of the cosmetic compositions does not change by more than 20%, 15%, 10% or 5%, during at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks of storage at 4°C. °C, 37°C and/or 45°C.

The cosmetic compositions preferably have a viscosity of about 5000 to about 200,000 Pa.s at 25°C, and a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 at 25°C. However, the cosmetic compositions may have a viscosity of about 10,000 to about 200,000 Pa.s, about 10,000 to about 180,000 Pa.s, about 10,000 to about 150,000 Pa.s, approximately 10,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, from approximately 10,000 to approximately 100,000 Pa.s, from approximately 10,000 to approximately 80,000 Pa.s, from approximately 15,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, from approximately 15,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, approximately 15,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, approximately 15,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, approximately 15,000 to approximately 100,000 Pa.s, approximately 15,000 to approximately 80,000 Pa.s, approximately 20,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, approximately 20,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, approximately 20,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, approximately 20,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s , approximately 20,000 to approximately 100,000 Pa.s, approximately 20,000 to approximately 80,000 Pa.s, approximately 30,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, approximately 30,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, approximately 30,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, approximately 30,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, approximately 30,000 to approximately 100,000 Pa.s, approximately 30,000 to approximately 80,000 Pa.s, approximately 35,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, approximately 35,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, approximately 35,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, approximately 35,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, approximately 35,000 to approximately 100,000 Pa.s, approximately 35,000 to approximately 80 000 Pa.s, approximately 40,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, approximately 40,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, approximately 40,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, approximately 40,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, approximately 40,000 to approximately 100,000 Pa.s, approximately 40,000 to approximately 80,000 Pa.s at 25°C, and a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 at 25°C.

Example 6

(Oil-in-water emulsions ’ water with ’ acetyl Trifluoromethylphenyl Valylglycine)

Inventive Comparative HAS B VS D E F C-1 C-2 C-3 (has) Active ACETYL TRIFLUOROMETHYL-PHENYLVALYLGLYCINE 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 (b) Active HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDRO-PYRANTRIOL 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 (j) Active (miscellaneous) MADECASSOSIDE 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 (vs) Taurate copolymer ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL-AMMONIUM TAURATE/ VP COPOLYMER 1.2 0.7 0.7 1.0 1.2 0.7 1.2 0.7 0.7 SODIUM ACRYLAMIDE/ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER 1.0 1.0 0.8 1.0 1.0 1.0 0.5 1.0 0.6 HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 - 0.7 (d) Fatty alcohol BEHENYL ALCOHOL and CETEARYL ALCOHOL 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 (i) Thickening polymer C _10-30 ALKYL POLYACRYLATE 0.5 0.5 - 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 - (e) Fatty compound ISOHEXADECAN, ISONONYL’ ISONONANOATE, SQUALANE, AND/OR GLYCINE SOYBEAN OIL (SOYBEAN) 9.5 9.5 9.5 9.5 9.5 9.5 9.5 9.5 9.5 (f) Non-ionic emulsifier
POLYSORBATE 80, CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE,
SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE, AND/OR SORBITAN OLEATE 0.5 0.5 0.4 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.4 0.5 0.4 (h) Solvent PROPYLENE GLYCOL 11 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.7 11 1.7 1.7 (j) Various emulsifiers/surfactants, salts, preservatives, pH correctors, perfumes, colorants, chelators and/or extracts, etc. ≤ 4 ≤ 4 ≤ 4 ≤ 4 ≤ 4 ≤ 4 ≤ 4 ≤ 4 ≤ 4 (g) WATER 54 64 64 63 63 63 55 64 64 Stable O O O O O O NOT NOT NOT

Example 7 (Comparative compositions)

C-4 C-5 C-6 (has) Active ACETYL TRIFLUOROMETHYLPHENYL VALYLGLYCINE 3.0 3.0 3.0 (b) Active HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL 15.0 15.0 (vs) Taurate copolymer ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL AMMONIUM TAURATE/ VP COPOLYMER 1.5 (d) Fatty alcohol BEHENYL ALCOHOL and CETEARYL ALCOHOL 0.8 Thickening agent SODIUM POLYACRYLATE 1.3 0.4 0.4 (e) Fatty compound ISONONYL ISONONANOATE,
CETEARYL ETHYLHEXANOATE, AND/OR CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 3 2.7 2.7
2.7 Silicone DIMETHICONE 0.5 0.5 (f) Non-ionic emulsifier
CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE 0.2 (h) WS Solvent PROPYLENE GLYCOL AND/OR
GLYCERIN 8 10.7 10.7 (j) Various emulsifiers/surfactants, emollients, salts, preservatives, pH correctors, perfumes, dyes, chelators and/or extracts, etc. ≤ 4 ≤ 4 ≤ 4 (g) Water 77 57 58 Stable NOT NOT NOT

Example 8 (Stability test)

The compositions of Example 1 and Example 2 were subjected to stability studies and evaluated visually for phase shift and evaluated microscopically for particle formation. The compositions were estimated during the initial manufacture of the composition (T0). The compositions were evaluated again after 10 days of freezing-thawing tests. The compositions were placed in a stability chamber and subjected to temperature fluctuations at 12 hour intervals. For 12 hours, the compositions were maintained at -20°C. For the next 12 hours, the compositions were maintained at 25°C. The cycle was repeated 10 times (for 10 days). Separately, the compositions of Example 1 and Example 2 were evaluated after 2 weeks of storage at 4°C, 25°C, 37°C, and 45°C, 4 weeks (1 month) of storage at 4°C, 25°C, 37°C, and 45°C, and again after 8 weeks (2 months) of storage at 4°C, 25°C, 37°C, and 45°C and assessed visually for phase shift and evaluated under a microscope for particle formation.

The inventive compositions were judged to be stable (“O”) (yes) because they did not visually shift out of phase and did not form particles. The Comparative Compositions (C-1 to C-6), however, were out of phase and forming particles. Therefore, the Comparative Compositions were judged to be non-stable (“N”) (no).

[0156] The data show, among other things, the importance of including at least two taurate copolymers in an amount of at least 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Oil-in-water emulsions with Ceramide-NP

Ceramide NP refers to “(9Z)-N-[(2S,3S,4R)-1,3,4-trihydroxyoctadecan-2-yl]octadec-9-enamide”. Ceramide NP consists of an N-acylated phytosphingosine backbone with a saturated fatty acid (stearic acid). Ceramide NP provides many benefits to the skin such as rehydration of dry skin, reduction of itching, chronic dryness, relief of itching, reduction of peeling and flaking.

In general, the amount of ceramide NP in cosmetic compositions is between about 0.1% by weight and about 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the amounts of ceramide NP range from about 0.1 wt% to about 4.0 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, to about 0.2% by weight to about 5% by weight, from about 0.2 to about 4%, from about 0.2 to about 2%, from about 0.2 to about 3%, from about 0.3 to about 5%, from about 0.3 to about 4%, from about 0.3 to about 3%. about 0.3 to about 3% by weight, about 0.3 to about 2% by weight, about 0.4 to about 5% by weight, about 0.4 to about 4% by weight, about 0.4 to about 3% by weight, about 0.4 to about 2% by weight, about 0.5% by weight to about 5% by weight, about 0.5% by weight to about 4% by weight, about 0.5% by weight weight to about 4% by weight, about 0.5% by weight to about 5% by weight, about 0.5% by weight to about 5% by weight, about 0.5% by weight to about 5% by weight, about 4% by weight, about 0.5% by weight to about 3% by weight, about 0.5 to about 2% by weight, or 0.5 to about 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition . In still other embodiments, the amount of ceramide NP is at least 0.1% by weight, at least 0.2% by weight, at least 0.3% by weight, at least 0.4% by weight, at least 0.5% by weight or at least 0.6% by weight and may have a maximum of approximately 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5% by weight , relative to the total weight of the composition.

In one aspect, the present disclosure relates, among other things, to a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition includes:

(a) ceramide NP;

(b) water;

(c) one or more first emulsifiers chosen from polyglycerol-based emulsifiers;

(d) one or more second emulsifiers chosen from glyceryl esters having an HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) of about 3 to about 6;

(e) one or more third emulsifiers chosen from ethoxylated fatty acids;

(f) one or more fatty alcohols; And

(g) one or more non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty compounds;

wherein the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition.

In some embodiments, the cosmetic compositions include one or more of the following weight ratios for (a) and (c)-(g):

a weight ratio of first emulsifier(s) chosen from emulsifiers based on polyglycerol to ceramide NP of approximately 1.5:1 to approximately 8:1 ((c):(a)); and or

a second emulsifier(s) weight ratio selected from glyceryl esters having an HLB of about 3 to about 6 to ceramide NP of about 0.8:1 to about 4:1 ((d) :(has)) ; and or

a weight ratio of third emulsifier(s) chosen from ethoxylated fatty acids to ceramide NP of approximately 0.7:1 to approximately 4:1 ((e):(a)); and or

a fatty alcohol(s) to ceramide NP weight ratio of approximately 0.7:1 to approximately 4:1 ((f):(a)); and or

a weight ratio of non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty compound(s) to ceramide NP of approximately 4:1 to approximately 20:1 ((g):(a)).

The amount of water in the composition of the present disclosure can and will vary depending on the amount of the other components of the cosmetic composition. However, in some embodiments, the amount of water in the composition is about 50 to about 90% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the amount of water in the cosmetic compositions is about 55 to about 90 weight percent, about 60 to about 90 weight percent, about 65 to about 90 weight percent, d 'about 70 to about 90% by weight, about 60 to about 85% by weight, about 65 to about 85% by weight, about 70 to about 85% by weight, about 60 to about 80 % by weight, from about 65 to about 80% by weight, or from about 70 to about 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Non-limiting examples of polyglycerol-based emulsifiers include polyglyceryl 10-stearate, polyglyceryl-3 caprate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate, or a mixture thereof. A more exhaustive but non-limiting list of polyglycerol-based emulsifiers is included under the heading “Polyglycerol-based emulsifiers.” »

The quantity of the first emulsifier(s) chosen from polyglycerol-based emulsifiers varies but, in certain embodiments, it is between approximately 0.5% by weight and approximately 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In other embodiments, the quantity of the first emulsifier(s) chosen from polyglycerol-based emulsifiers is between approximately 0.5% by weight and approximately 4% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 3% by weight. , about 0.5 to about 2% by weight, about 0.6 to about 5% by weight, about 0.6 to about 4% by weight, about 0.6 to about 3% by weight, about 0.6 to about about 2% by weight, about 0.8 to about 4% by weight, about 0.8% by weight, about 3% by weight, or about 0.8 to about 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Non-limiting examples of glyceryl esters having an HLB of about 3 to about 8 include glyceryl behenate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl lanolate, laurate glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl palmitate lactate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl laurate, or a mixture thereof. In at least one case, the glyceryl ester includes glyceryl stearate, glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof. A more exhaustive but non-limiting list of glyceryl esters is provided under the title “Glyceryl fatty esters”.

In general, the amount of one or more of a second emulsifier selected from glyceryl esters having an HLB of about 3 to about 6 may range from about 0.5% by weight to about 5% by weight, relative to to the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the amount of one or more of a second emulsifier selected from glyceryl esters having a hydrophilic balance (HLB) value of about 3 to about 6 may range from about 0.2 to about 5 % by weight, from about 0.2 to about 4% by weight, from about 0.2 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, about 0.5 to about 2% by weight, about 0.6 to about 2% by weight, about 0.8 to about 4% by weight, about 0, 8% by weight of about 3% by weight, or about 0.8 to about 2% by weight, of about 1.0 to about 4% by weight, of about 1.0% by weight of about 3% by weight, or from about 1.0 to about 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Non-limiting examples of ethoxylated fatty acids having 40 to 100 propylene oxide groups and the fatty acid chain ranging from 12 to 24 carbons include lauric acid, tridecylic acid, myristic acid, pentadecylic acid, palmitic acid, margaric acid, stearic acid, nonadecylic acid, arachidic acid, henicosylic acid, behenic acid, tricosylic acid and lignoceric acid, containing in particular 40 with 100 propylene oxide groups. A more exhaustive but non-limiting list of ethoxylated fatty acids is provided under the title “Ethoxylated fatty acids”.

The quantity of one or more third emulsifiers chosen from ethoxylated fatty acids varies. However, in various embodiments, it is between about 0.5% by weight and about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the total amount of one or more third emulsifiers selected from ethoxylated fatty acids is about 0.2 to about 5% by weight, about 0.2 to about 4% by weight, about 0.2 to about 3% by weight, about 0 .5% by weight to about 4% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 2% by weight, from about 0.6 to about 5% by weight , from about 0.6 to about 4% by weight, from about 0.6 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.6 to about 2% by weight, from about 0.8 to about 4% by weight, about 0.8% by weight, about 3% by weight, or about 0.8 to about 2% by weight, about 1.0 to about 4% by weight, about 1.0% by weight, about 3% by weight, or about 1.0 to about 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols include those having 12 to 24 carbon atoms. For example, fatty alcohols chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristic or myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, and their mixtures. A more exhaustive but non-exhaustive list of fatty alcohols is provided under the heading “Fatty alcohols”.

The amount of the one or more fatty alcohols in the cosmetic compositions may vary but, in various embodiments, is between about 0.2% by weight and about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the amount of the one or more fatty alcohols in the composition is between about 0.2 and about 5% by weight, about 0.2 and about 4% by weight, about 0.2 and about 3%. by weight, about 0.2 and about 2% by weight, about 0.3 and about 5% by weight, about 0.3 and about 4% by weight, about 0.3 to about 3% by weight, about 0, 3 to about 2% by weight, about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, about 0.5 to about 2% by weight, about 0.7 to about 4% by weight weight, about 0.7 to about 3% by weight, about 0.7 to about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Non-limiting examples of non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty compounds include fatty esters (isopropyl myristate, sorbitan isostearate), sarcosinates, for example acyl sarcosinate, plant oils and/or vegetable oils, and their mixtures. Non-limiting examples of sarcosinates may be chosen from the group consisting of sodium lauroyl-sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl-sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl-sarcosinate, sodium caproyl-sarcosinate, TEA cocoyl sarcosinate, ammonium cocoyl sarcosinate , ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate, dilinoleyl bis-lauroylglutamate/lauroyls sarcosinate, disodium lauroamphodiacate sarcosinate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, cocoyl potassium sarcosinate, lauroyl potassium sarcosinate, cocoyl sodium sarcosinate, lauroyl sarcosinate sodium, lauroyl potassium sarcosinate myristoyl sodium, oleoyl sarcosinate sodium, palmitoyl sarcosinate sodium, cocoyl sarcosinate TEA, lauroyl sarcosinate TEA, oleoyl sarcosinate TEA, palm kernel sarcosinate TEA, and combinations thereof. Other non-limiting examples of non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty compounds are included under the heading “Fatty Compounds”.

The total amount of the one or more non-triglyceride, non-aromatic fatty compounds will vary. However, in some embodiments, the total amount of non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty compounds is from about 4 to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In other embodiments, the total amount of the one or more non-triglyceride, non-aromatic fatty compounds is about 1 to about 20 wt.%, about 1 to about 15 wt.%, about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 2 to about 20% by weight, about 2 to about 15% by weight, about 2 to about 10% by weight, about 2 to about 20% by weight weight, from about 2 to about 15% by weight, from about 2 to about 10% by weight, about 2 to about 15% by weight, about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 3 to about 20% by weight , about 3 to about 15% by weight, about 3 to about 10% by weight, about 4 to about 20% by weight, about 4 to about 15% by weight, or about 4 to about 10% by weight, based on total weight of the composition.

In various embodiments, the cosmetic compositions may optionally include one or more thickening polymers. A list of useful thickening polymers is provided under the heading "Thickening Polymers".

The amount of the one or more thickening polymers, when present, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the total amount of the thickening polymer(s) is between about 0.01 and about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In other embodiments, the total amount of the one or more thickening polymers is about 0.01 to about 4 weight percent, about 0.01 to about 3 weight percent, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, to about 0 .5 to about 4% by weight, or about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, about 1 to about 4% by weight, or about 1 to about 3% by weight, about 1.5 to about 5% by weight, about 1.5 to about 4% by weight, or about 1.5 to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

In various embodiments, the cosmetic compositions may optionally include one or more water-soluble solvents. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include, for example, glycerin, alcohols (e.g., C _1-30 , C _1-15 , C _1-10 or C _1-4 alcohols). ), organic solvents, polyols, glycols and a mixture thereof. A more exhaustive but non-limiting list of water-soluble solvents is included under the heading "Water-Soluble Solvents".

In various embodiments, silicones may optionally be included in the cosmetic compositions, but preferably the compositions are free or substantially free of silicones. Silicones are synthetic polymers made up of repeating units of elemental siloxane, silicon and oxygen, combined with other elements, most often carbon and hydrogen. Thus, silicones are also called polysiloxanes. In some cases, the cosmetic compositions herein may be free or essentially free of dimethicones, amodimethicones, dimethiconols, cyclosiloxanes, siloxanes, etc.

The total amount of the water-soluble solvent(s) can and will vary, but is typically from about 1 to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In some cases, the total amount of one or more water-soluble solvents may be about 1 to about 15 weight percent, about 1 to about 10 weight percent, about 1 to about 5 % by weight, from about 2 to about 20% by weight, from about 2 to about 15% by weight, about 2 to about 10% by weight, about 2 to about 5% by weight, about 5 to about 20% by weight, about 5 to about 15% by weight, or about 5 to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions include one or more various ingredients. Non-limiting examples of miscellaneous ingredients include various emulsifiers/surfactants other than (d) dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers, preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts, UV filter agents, proteins, hydrolysates and/or protein isolates, hydrotropes, pearling agents, fillers, dyes, mattifying agents, other active agents for skin, depigmenting agents, anti-wrinkle agents, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition includes at least one other active agent for the skin, for example, madecassoside. A more exhaustive but non-exhaustive list of various ingredients is provided under the heading “Miscellaneous Ingredients”.

The various ingredients, when present, may be present in an amount between approximately 0.01 and approximately 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The total amount of the one or more miscellaneous ingredients may be from about 0.01 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.01 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight. about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight , approximately 1 to approximately 5% by weight, or approximately 1 to approximately 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In certain embodiments, cosmetic compositions in the form of oil-in-water emulsions include:

(a) about 0.1 to about 5 weight percent ceramide NP;

(b) water;

(c) approximately 0.5 to approximately 5% by weight of one or more first emulsifiers chosen from polyglycerol-based emulsifiers;

(d) about 0.5 to about 5% by weight of one or more second emulsifiers selected from glyceryl esters having an HLB of about 3 to about 6;

(e) about 0.5 to about 5% by weight of one or more third emulsifiers chosen from ethoxylated fatty acids;

(f) about 0.2 to about 5% by weight of one or more fatty alcohols; And

(g) about 4 to about 20% by weight of one or more non-triglyceride, non-aromatic fatty compounds;

wherein the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition, provided that one or more of the following ratios apply:

a weight ratio of first emulsifier(s) chosen from emulsifiers based on polyglycerol to ceramide NP of approximately 1.5:1 to approximately 8:1 ((c):(a)); and or

a second emulsifier(s) weight ratio selected from glyceryl esters having an HLB of about 3 to about 6 to ceramide NP of about 0.8:1 to about 4:1 ((d) :(has)) ; and or

a weight ratio of third emulsifier(s) chosen from ethoxylated fatty acids to ceramide NP of approximately 0.7:1 to approximately 4:1 ((e):(a)); and or

a fatty alcohol(s) to ceramide NP weight ratio of approximately 0.7:1 to approximately 4:1 ((f):(a));

a weight ratio of non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty compound(s) to ceramide NP of approximately 4:1 to approximately 20:1 ((g):(a)).

In various embodiments, it is preferable that the cosmetic compositions include one or more ratios relating to components (a) and (c)-(g).

In one embodiment, the weight ratio of first emulsifier(s) chosen from polyglycerol-based emulsifiers to ceramide NP is approximately 1.5:1 to approximately 8:1 ((c): (a)), preferably from about 1.5:1 to about 5:1, more preferably from about 1.5:1 to about 3:1.

In one embodiment, the weight ratio of second emulsifier(s) chosen from glyceryl esters having an HLB of approximately 3 to approximately 6 to ceramide NP to is approximately 0.8:1 to about 4:1 ((d):(a)), preferably from 1:1 to about 3:1, more preferably from about 1.2:1 to about 2.5:1.

In one embodiment, the weight ratio of third emulsifier(s) chosen from ethoxylated fatty acids to ceramide NP is approximately 0.7:1 to approximately 4:1 ((e):(a )), preferably from about 0.8:1 to about 3:1, more preferably from about 0.8:1 to about 2.5:1.

In one embodiment, the weight ratio of fatty alcohol(s) to ceramide NP is between approximately 0.7:1 and approximately 4:1 ((f):(a)), preferably between approximately 0.8:1 and about 3:1, more preferably between about 0.8:1 and about 2.5:1.

In one embodiment, the weight ratio of non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty compound(s) to ceramide NP is from about 4:1 to about 20:1 ((g):(a)), preferably about 5:1 to 15:1, more preferably about 6:1 to 10:1.

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic compositions include the following ratio relating to components (a) and (c)-(g):

the weight ratio of the first emulsifier(s) chosen from the emulsifiers based on polyglycerol to ceramide NP is from approximately 1.5:1 to approximately 8:1 ((c):(a)), preferably from about 1.5:1 to about 5:1, more preferably from about 1.5:1 to about 3:1;

the weight ratio of second emulsifier(s) selected from glyceryl esters having an HLB of about 3 to about 6 to ceramide NP is about 0.8:1 to about 4:1 ((d ):(a)), preferably from 1:1 to about 3:1, more preferably from about 1.2:1 to about 2.5:1;

the weight ratio of third emulsifier(s) chosen from ethoxylated fatty acids to ceramide NP is approximately 0.7:1 to approximately 4:1 ((e):(a)), preferably d about 0.8:1 to about 3:1, more preferably about 0.8:1 to about 2.5:1;

the weight ratio of fatty alcohol(s) to ceramide NP is from about 0.7:1 to about 4:1 ((f):(a)), preferably from about 0.8:1 to about 3:1 , more preferably from about 0.8:1 to about 2.5:1; And

the weight ratio of non-triglyceride(s) and non-aromatic fatty compound(s) to ceramide NP is from approximately 5:1 to approximately 20:1 ((g):(a)), preferably approximately 5:1 to 15:1, more preferably about 6:1 to 10:1.

In certain embodiments, the cosmetic compositions in the form of oil-in-water emulsions comprise or consist of:

(a) about 0.1 to about 5 weight percent, preferably about 0.1 to about 3 weight percent, more preferably about 0.2 to about 2 weight percent, even more preferably about 0 .3 to about 1.5% by weight of ceramide NP;

(b) about 50 to about 90% by weight, preferably about 55 to about 80% by weight, more preferably about 55 to about 75% by weight of water;

(c) about 0.5 to about 5 weight percent, more preferably about 0.5 to about 4 weight percent, even more preferably about 0.8 to about 3 weight percent of one or more first emulsifiers chosen from polyglycerol-based emulsifiers, preferably:

- one or more polyglyceryl esters of saturated, unsaturated and branched chain C _12-22 fatty acids, such as polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate, polyglyceryl-2 sesquioleate, triglyceryl diisostearate, diglyceryl monooleate, tetraglyceryl monooleate, and mixtures thereof; Or

- one or more polyglycerylmethylglucose surfactants, such as polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, polyglyceryl-6 methylglucose distearate, polyglyceryl-10 methylglucose distearate;

(d) about 0.5 to about 5 weight percent, more preferably about 0.5 to about 4 weight percent, even more preferably about 0.8 to about 3 weight percent. % of one or more second emulsifiers chosen from glyceryl esters having an HLB of about 3 to about 6, preferably chosen from bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, glyceryl behenate, glyceryl caprate, glyceryl cocoate, l glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl lanolate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl palmitate lactate, glyceryl sesquioleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl stearate lactate, glyceryl dioleate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl laurate, and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from glyceryl stearate, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate, or a mixture thereof;

(e) about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 3% by weight of one or more third emulsifiers selected from ethoxylated fatty acids, preferably derived from a fatty acid containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms and comprising from 2 to 200 ethylene oxide molecules, more preferably chosen from polyethoxylated stearic acid esters, for example , PEG-9 stearate, PEG-8 distearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-8 stearate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-30 stearate , PEG-40 stearate, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-150 laurate, and mixtures thereof;

(f) about 0.2 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.3 to about 4% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 3% by weight of one or more fatty alcohols, comprising preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably chosen from decyl alcohol, undecyl, dodecyl, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, myric alcohol and a mixture thereof;

(g) about 4 to about 20% by weight, preferably about 4 to about 15% by weight, more preferably about 5 to about 10% by weight of one or more selected non-triglyceride, non-aromatic fatty compounds preferably from fatty esters (e.g. isopropyl myristate, sorbitan isostearate), acyl sarcosinates, oils, alkanes (paraffins), fatty acids, fatty alcohol derivatives, fatty acid derivatives, waxes, lanolin, and mixtures thereof; preferably chosen from acyl sarcosinates of fatty esters, and mixtures thereof;

(h) optionally, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, where, if present, it is preferably in an amount of about 10 to about 40% by weight, more preferably about 10 to about 20% by weight. weight, and more preferably about 12 to about 18% by weight;

(i) optionally, one or more thickening polymers, which, if present, may be present in an amount of about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, more preferably about 0.1 to about 3 weight percent, for example, polyacrylates (e.g., sodium polyacrylate), hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer ammonium/VP, a sodium acrylamide/acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, a polyacrylate-6 crosslinked polymer, a polyacrylamide, a C _10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer and mixtures thereof;

(j) optionally, one or more water-soluble solvents, where, if present, they may be present in an amount of from about 1 to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 1 to about 15% by weight, more preferably about 5 to about 15% by weight, e.g., glycerin, C ₂ -C ₆ monoalcohols, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, and a mixture thereof ; And

(k) optionally, one or more miscellaneous ingredients, which, if present, may be in an amount of from about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 6% by weight, for example, of various ingredients selected from various emulsifiers/surfactants, preservatives, fragrances, pH correctors, salts, antioxidants, vitamins, botanical extracts, filtration agents UV, proteins, hydrolysates and/or protein isolates, hydrotropes, beading agents, fillers, colorants, mattifying agents, other skin active agents, buffers, and mixtures thereof;

wherein the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition.

In other embodiments, the cosmetic compositions in the form of oil-in-water emulsions comprise or consist of:

(a) about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 3% by weight of ceramide NP;

(b) about 50 to about 80% by weight, preferably about 60 to 80% by weight of water;

(c) approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight, preferably approximately 0.5 to approximately 4% by weight of one or more first emulsifiers chosen from polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-3 caprate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate, and a mixture thereof;

(d) about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 3% by weight of one or more second emulsifiers selected from glyceryl esters having an HLB of about 3 to about 10, for example, chosen from bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, glyceryl behenate, glyceryl caprate, glyceryl cocoate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isostearate glyceryl, glyceryl lanolate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl palmitate lactate, glyceryl sesquioleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl stearate lactate, glyceryl stearate dioleate glyceryl, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl laurate, or a mixture thereof. In at least one case, the glyceryl ester comprises glyceryl stearate, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate, glyceryl ricinoleate, or a mixture thereof;

(e) about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 3% by weight of one or more third emulsifiers selected from ethoxylated fatty acids having propylene oxide groups ranging from 40 to 100 and a fatty chain of 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably polethoxylated stearic acid esters, for example, PEG-9 stearate, PEG-9 distearate PEG-8, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-8 stearate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG stearate -50, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-150 laurate, and mixtures thereof;

(f) about 0.2 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.3 to about 4% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 3% by weight of one or more fatty alcohols comprising 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from decyl alcohol, undecyl, dodecyl, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof;

(g) about 4 to about 20% by weight, preferably about 4 to about 15% by weight, more preferably about 5 to about 10% by weight of one or more non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty compounds selected from fatty esters, acyl sarcosinates, or a mixture thereof;

(h) optionally, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, where, if present, it is preferably in an amount of about 10 to about 40% by weight, more preferably about 10 to about 20% by weight. weight, and more preferably about 12 to about 18% by weight;

(i) optionally, one or more thickening polymers, which, if present, may be present in an amount of about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, more preferably about 0.1 to about 3 weight percent, for example, polyacrylates (e.g., sodium polyacrylate), hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer ammonium/VP, a sodium acrylamide/acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, a polyacrylate-6 crosslinked polymer, a polyacrylamide, a C _10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer and mixtures thereof;

(j) about 1 to about 15% by weight of one or more water-soluble solvents selected from glycerin, C ₂ -C ₆ monoalcohols, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols and a mixture of these ; And

(k) optionally, one or more miscellaneous ingredients, where, if present, they may be in an amount of about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 8%. by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 6% by weight, for example various ingredients chosen from various emulsifiers/surfactants, preservatives, perfumes, pH correctors, salts, antioxidants, vitamins, botanical extracts, UV filter agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and/or isolates, hydrotropes, pearling agents, fillers, colorants, mattifying agents, other skin active agents, buffers, and mixtures thereof;

wherein the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition.

In addition to the various amounts of components (a) and (c)-(g) specified above, in various embodiments, it is preferable that the cosmetic compositions include one or more ratios relating to components (a) and (c )-(g) chosen from:

a weight ratio of first emulsifier(s) chosen from emulsifiers based on polyglycerol to ceramide NP of approximately 1.5:1 to approximately 8:1 ((c):(a)), preferably from about 1.5:1 to about 5:1, more preferably from about 1.5:1 to about 3:1;

a second emulsifier(s) weight ratio selected from glyceryl esters having an HLB of about 3 to about 6 to ceramide NP of about 0.8:1 to about 4:1 ((d) :(a)), preferably from 1:1 to about 3:1, more preferably from about 1.2:1 to about 2.5:1;

a third emulsifier(s) weight ratio(s) chosen from ethoxylated fatty acids on ceramide NP of approximately 0.7:1 to approximately 4:1 ((e):(a)), preferably of about 0.8:1 to about 3:1, more preferably about 0.8:1 to about 2.5:1;

a fatty alcohol(s) to ceramide NP weight ratio of approximately 0.7:1 to approximately 4:1 ((f):(a)), preferably approximately 0.8:1 to approximately 3:1, more preferably from about 0.8:1 to about 2.5:1;

a weight ratio of non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty compound(s) to ceramide NP of about 4:1 to about 20:1 ((g):(a)), preferably about 5:1 to 15:1 , more preferably about 6:1 to 10:1.

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic compositions include the following ratios relating to all components (a) and (c)-(g):

the weight ratio of the first emulsifier(s) chosen from the emulsifiers based on polyglycerol to ceramide NP is from approximately 1.5:1 to approximately 8:1 ((c):(a)), preferably from about 1.5:1 to about 5:1, more preferably from about 1.5:1 to about 3:1;

the weight ratio of second emulsifier(s) chosen from glyceryl esters having an HLB of approximately 3 to approximately 6 to ceramide NP to is approximately 0.8:1 to approximately 4:1 (( d):(a)), preferably from 1:1 to about 3:1, more preferably from about 1.2:1 to about 2.5:1;

the weight ratio of third emulsifier(s) chosen from ethoxylated fatty acids to ceramide NP is approximately 0.7:1 to approximately 4:1 ((e):(a)), preferably d about 0.8:1 to about 3:1, more preferably about 0.8:1 to about 2.5:1;

the weight ratio of fatty alcohol(s) to ceramide NP is from about 0.7:1 to about 4:1 ((f):(a)), preferably from about 0.8:1 to about 3:1 , more preferably from about 0.8:1 to about 2.5:1; And

the weight ratio of non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty compound(s) to ceramide NP is between approximately 1:1 and approximately 20:1 ((g):(a)), preferably between approximately 2:1 and 20:1 , more preferably between about 2:1 and 10:1.

The cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure are preferably stable, and the ceramide NP is preferably solubilized. Regarding stability, in some embodiments, the cosmetic compositions do not visually phase shift or form visibly observable particles for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks of storage at 4°C. °C, 37°C and/or 45°C.

In another embodiment, the cosmetic compositions do not visually phase shift or form visibly observable particles during at least 10 freeze-thaw test cycles, the freeze-thaw test comprising placement of the cosmetic composition in a stability chamber and subjecting it to a temperature fluctuation at 12 hour intervals, for a first interval of 12 hours at -20°C followed by a second interval of 12 hours at 25°C.

In another embodiment, the viscosity of the cosmetic compositions does not change by more than 20%, 15%, 10% or 5%, for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks of storage at 4°C, 25°C, 37°C and/or 45°C.

The cosmetic compositions preferably have a viscosity of about 5000 to about 200,000 Pa.s at 25°C, and a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 at 25°C. However, the cosmetic compositions may have a viscosity of about 10,000 to about 200,000 Pa.s, about 10,000 to about 180,000 Pa.s, about 10,000 to about 150,000 Pa.s, approximately 10,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, approximately 15,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, approximately 15,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, approximately 15,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, approximately 15,000 to approximately 120 000 Pa.s, approximately 20,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, approximately 20,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, approximately 20,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, approximately 20,000 to approximately 120,000, approximately 50,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, approximately 50,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, approximately 50,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, approximately 50,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, approximately 70,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s , approximately 70,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, approximately 70,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, approximately 70,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, or approximately 70,000 to approximately 100,000 Pa.s at 25 °C, and a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 at 25 °C.

Example 9 (Cosmetic compositions)

Inventive Comparative HAS B C-1 C-2 C-3 C-4 (has) Active CERAMIDE NP (Ceramide 3) 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 (b) Water WATER QS QS QS QS QS QS (vs) Polyglyceryl-based emulsifier POLYGLYCERYL-3 METHYLGLUCOSE DISTEARATE 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 (d) Glyceryl ester emulsifier GLYCERYL STEARATE 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 (e) Ethoxylated fatty acid emulsifier
PEG-100 STEARATE 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 (f) Fatty alcohol STEARYL ALCOHOL 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 (g) Fatty compounds ISOPROPYL MYRISTATE,
SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE, AND/OR ISOPROPYL LAUROYL SARCOSINATE 4.3 4.3 4.3 4.3 4.3 4.3 (h) Active HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL 15.0 15.0 15.0 15.0 15.0 15.0 (i) Thickening polymer SODIUM POLYACRYLATE,
AMMONIUM ACRYLOYL-DIMETHYLTAURATE/VP COPOLYMER, AND/OR HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER 1.1 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 (j) Water soluble solvent PROPYLENE GLYCOL, AND/OR
T-BUTYL ALCOHOL 10.7 10.7 10.7 10.7 10.7 10.7 (k) Various emulsifiers/surfactants, salts, preservatives, pH correctors, perfumes, colorants, chelators and/or extracts, etc. ≤ 4 ≤ 4 ≤ 4 ≤ 4 ≤ 4 ≤ 4 Stable O O N / A N / A N / A N / A Soluble (ceramide NP) below 95°C O O NOT NOT NOT NOT

Example 10 (Stability studies)

Studies were carried out to determine the solubility of ceramide NP below 95°C. To determine the solubility of ceramide NP, components (a), (c), (d), (e), (f), and (g) were combined and heated to 95 °C with constant stirring. If the mixture became transparent below 95°C, it was initially solubilized. The mixtures were then added to a hot water phase (85-90 °C) (component (b)), homogenized, stirred and allowed to cool. Solubility was monitored via microscope and macroscopic changes (e.g., granularity). Inventive compositions A and B solubilized ceramide NP and are therefore designated with an “O” (yes) for solubility in the table of Example 1. Comparative compositions C-1 to C-4 did not solubilize ceramide NP and are therefore designated by an “N” (no) for solubility in the table of Example 1. As the comparative compositions C-1 to C-4 did not solubilize ceramide NP, these compositions were not submitted other stability tests.

Inventive compositions A and B of Example 1 were subjected to physical stability studies and evaluated visually for phase shift and evaluated microscopically for particle formation. The compositions were analyzed during the initial manufacture of the composition (T0). The compositions were analyzed again after 10 days of freezing-thawing tests. For the freeze-thaw test, the compositions were placed in a stability chamber and subjected to temperature fluctuations at 12 hour intervals. For 12 hours, the compositions were maintained at -20°C. For the next 12 hours, the compositions were maintained at 25°C. The cycle was repeated 10 times (for 10 days). Separately, the compositions of Example 1 were evaluated after 4 weeks (1 month) of storage at 4°C, 25°C, 37°C, and 45°C and again after 8 weeks (2 months) at 4 °C, 25 °C, 37 °C, and 45 °C and assessed visually for phase shift and assessed microscopically for particle formation.

The inventive compositions were judged to be stable (“O”) (yes) because they did not visually shift out of phase and did not form particles.

Water-in-silicone emulsions

The water-in-silicone emulsions of the present case are characterized in that the emulsions include at least 70% by weight of an aqueous phase (internal phase), relative to the total weight of the silicone emulsion. In addition, water-in-silicone emulsions include one or more active agents, preferably one or more active agents which are stabilized and/or solubilized in the water or silicone phase of the emulsion. In a particularly preferred embodiment, at least one of the one or more active agents is hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol.

E mulsions water in silicone comprising ’ hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol

The amount of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol in cosmetic compositions will vary. However, in one embodiment, the quantity of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol is between approximately 10% by weight and approximately 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In other embodiments, the amount of hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol in the composition is between about 12 and 50 weight percent, about 12 and 45 weight percent, about 12 and 40 weight percent, about 12 and 35 weight percent , about 12 and 30% by weight, about 15 and 50% by weight, about 15 and 45% by weight, about 15 and 40% by weight, about 15 and 35% by weight, about 15 and 30% by weight, about 20 and 50% by weight, about 15 to about 45% by weight, about 15 to about 40% by weight, about 15 to about 35% by weight, about 15 to about 30% by weight, about 20 to about 50% by weight weight, about 20 to about 45% by weight, about 20 to about 40% by weight, about 20 to about 35% by weight, about 20 to about 30% by weight, about 25 to about 50% by weight, about 25 to about about 45% by weight, about 25 to about 40% by weight, about 25 to about 35% by weight, about 30 to about 50% by weight, about 30 to about 45% by weight, about 30 to about 40% by weight weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the present disclosure relates, among others, to water-in-silicone emulsions, in which the silicone emulsion is a cosmetic composition comprising:

(a) hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, preferably in the quantities specified above;

(b) one or more silicone oils;

(c) one or more non-emulsifying silicone elastomers;

(d) one or more dimethicone copolyol type emulsifiers comprising at least one oxyethylene group and at least one oxypropylene group;

(e) water; And

(f) one or more water-soluble solvents.

Non-limiting examples of silicone oils include dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclomethicone, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, cycloheptasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclotrisiloxane, capryldimethicone, caprylyl trimethicone, caprylyl methicone, cetearylmethicone, hexadecylmethic one, hexylmethicone, laurylmethicone, myristylmethicone, phenylmethicone, stearylmethicone, stearyl dimethicone, behenyl dimethicone, trifluoropropylmethicone, cetyl dimethicone, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, and phenyl trimethicone, and mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, dimethicone is a particularly useful silicone oil. A more exhaustive but not exhaustive list of useful silicone oils is included under the heading “Silicone Oils”.

The total amount of the one or more silicone oils in the cosmetic compositions will vary, but in various embodiments is between about 5 and about 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In other embodiments, the total amount of the one or more silicone oils is about 5 to about 45% by weight, about 5 to about 40% by weight, about 5 to about 35% by weight, weight, from about 10 to about 45% by weight, from about 10 to about 40% by weight, from about 10 to about 35% by weight, from about 15 to about 50% by weight, from about 15 to about 45% by weight, about 15 to about 40% by weight, about 15 to about 35% by weight, about 20 to about 50% by weight, about 20 to about 45% by weight, about 20 to about 40 % by weight, about 20 to about 35% by weight, about 25 to about 50% by weight, about 25 to about 45% by weight, about 25 to about 40% by weight, or about 25 to about 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Non-limiting examples of non-emulsifying silicone elastomers include dimethicone cross-linked polymer, vinyl dimethicone cross-linked polymer, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone cross-linked polymer, dimethicone-3 cross-linked polymer, polysilicone-11 and mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, cross-linked dimethicone polymers are particularly useful silicone elastomers. A more exhaustive but non-limiting list of useful non-emulsifying silicone elastomers is included under the heading "Non-emulsifying Silicone Elastomers".

The total quantity of the non-emulsifying silicone elastomer(s) may be between approximately 0.1 and approximately 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In some embodiments, the total amount of the one or more non-emulsifying silicone elastomers may be in an amount of about 0.1 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%, d 'about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, or about 1 to about 3% by weight, 1.5 to about 10% by weight, about 1.5 to about 8% by weight, about 1, 5 to approximately 5% by weight, or approximately 1.5 to approximately 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Non-limiting examples of dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers comprising at least one oxyethylene group and at least one oxypropylene group include bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 dimethicone, bis-isobutyl PEG/PPG-10/7 dimethicone copolymer, bis -PEG/PPG-18/6 dimethicone; bis-PEG/PPG-20/20 dimethicone, bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 dimethicone, cetyl PEG/PPG-15/16 butyl ether dimethicone, cetyl PEG/PPG-15/15 butyl ether dimethicone, cetyl PEG/PPG -7/3 dimethicone, cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone, dimethicone PEG/PPG-7/4 phosphate, dimethicone PEG/PPG-12/4 phosphate, PEG/PPG-28/21 dimethicone acetate, PEG/PPG -22/22 butyl ether dimethicone, PEG/PPG-23/23 butyl ether dimethicone, PEG/PPG-24/18 butyl ether dimethicone, PEG/PPG-3/10 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-4/12 dimethicone, PEG/ PPG-6/11 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-8/14 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-12/16 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-12/18 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-14/4 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-15/5 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-15/15 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-16/2 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-16/8 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-17/18 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/12 dimethicone, PEG/PPG -19/19 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/6 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/15 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/20 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/29 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-22/23 dimethicone , PEG/PPG-22/24 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-25/25 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-27/27 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-30/10 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-10/3 oleyl ether dimethicone, and mixtures thereof . A more exhaustive but non-limiting list of dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers is provided under the title “Dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers.” »

The total amount of the one or more dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers varies but, in various embodiments, is between about 0.1 and about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In other embodiments, the total amount of the one or more dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers is about 0.1 to about 8 weight percent, about 0.1 to about 5 weight percent, about 0. 5 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 5 wt.%, about 1 to about 10 wt.%, about 1 to about 8 % by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, or about 1 to about 3% by weight, 1.5 to about 10% by weight, about 1.5 to about 8% by weight, about 1.5 to about 5% by weight, or about 1.5 to about 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The weight ratio of non-emulsifying silicone elastomer(s) (c) to dimethicone copolyol emulsifier(s) (d) may vary. In one embodiment, the ratio of non-emulsifying silicone elastomer(s) (c) to dimethicone copolyol emulsifier(s) (d) is from about 1:10 to about 10:1, from about 1: 8 to 8:1, approximately 1:6 to approximately 6:1, approximately 1:5 to approximately 5:1, approximately 1:4 to 4:1, approximately 1:3 to approximately 3 :1. In other embodiments, the ratio of non-emulsifying silicone elastomer(s) (c) to dimethicone copolyol emulsifier(s) (d) is from about 1:5 to about 5:1, approximately 1:4 to approximately 4:1, approximately 1:3 to approximately 3:1, or approximately 1:2 to approximately 2:1.

The quantity of water in cosmetic compositions can and will vary depending on the quantity of other components in the cosmetic compositions. In one embodiment, the total amount of water in the compositions is between about 0.1 and about 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In another embodiment, the total amount of water is between 0.1 and about 60% by weight, between 0.1 and about 50% by weight, between 0.1 and about 40% by weight, between 0 .1 and approximately 30% by weight, between 0.1 and approximately 20% by weight, between 0.1 and approximately 10% by weight, or between 0.1 and approximately 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In other preferred embodiments, the amount of water in the cosmetic composition is 5 to about 50 weight percent, about 10 to about 45 weight percent, about 10 to about 40 weight percent, about 10 to about 35% by weight, about 15 to about 50% by weight, about 15 to about 45% by weight, about 15 to about 40% by weight, about 15 to about 35% by weight, about 20 to about 50% by weight, about 20 to about 45 wt.%, about 20 to about 40 wt.%, about 20 to about 35 wt.%, about 25 to about 50 wt.%, about 25 to about 45 wt.%, about 25 to about 40 % by weight, or about 25 to about 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include glycerin, mono-alcohols, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols and a mixture thereof. In one embodiment, the water-soluble solvent(s) may be chosen from propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethanol, isopropanol, t-butyl alcohol, and a mixture of these. A more exhaustive but non-limiting list of useful water-soluble solvents is provided under the heading “Water-Soluble Solvents”.

The total amount of the water-soluble solvent(s) will vary, but in some embodiments is between about 0.1 and about 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In other embodiments, the total amount of the water-soluble solvent(s) may be between about 0.1 and about 40 wt.%, about 0.1 and about 30 wt.%, about 0.1 and about 20 wt.%, 0.1 to about 15 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%, about 1 to about 20 wt.%, about 1 at about 15% by weight, about 1 to about 10% by weight, or about 1 to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions may optionally include one or more miscellaneous ingredients. Non-limiting examples of miscellaneous ingredients include various emulsifiers/surfactants other than (d) dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers, preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts, UV filter agents, proteins, hydrolysates and/or protein isolates, hydrotropes, pearling agents, fillers, dyes, mattifying agents, other active agents for skin, depigmenting agents, anti-wrinkle agents, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition includes at least one other active agent for the skin, for example, madecassoside. A more exhaustive but non-exhaustive list of various ingredients is provided under the heading “Miscellaneous Ingredients”.

The miscellaneous ingredients may be included in the cosmetic composition, for example, in an amount of about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The total amount of the one or more miscellaneous ingredients may be from about 0.01 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.01 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, or about 1 to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions in the form of water-in-silicone emulsions include:

(a) about 10 to about 50% by weight of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol;

(b) about 5 to about 50% by weight of one or more silicone oils;

(c) about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of one or more non-emulsifying silicone elastomers;

(d) about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of one or more dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers comprising at least one oxyethylene group and at least one oxypropylene group;

(e) water; And

(f) about 0.1 to about 40% by weight of one or more water-soluble solvents;

wherein the composition is in the form of a water-in-silicone emulsion and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition.

In certain embodiments, the cosmetic compositions in the form of water-in-silicone emulsions comprise or consist of:

(a) about 10 to about 50 weight percent, preferably about 15 to about 40 weight percent, more preferably about 25 to about 40 weight percent of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol;

(b) from about 10 to about 50% by weight, preferably from about 15 to about 40% by weight, more preferably from about 20 to about 30% by weight of one or more silicone oils , more preferably one or more silicone oils chosen from dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclomethicone, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, cycloheptasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclotrisiloxane, capryldimethicone, caprylyl trimethicone, caprylyl methicone, cetearylmethicone, hexadec ylmethicone, hexylmethicone, laurylmethicone, myristylmethicone , phenylmethicone, stearylmethicone, stearyl dimethicone, behenyl dimethicone, trifluoropropylmethicone, cetyl dimethicone, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, and mixtures thereof, more preferably dimethicone;

(c) about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 5% by weight of one or more non-emulsifying silicone elastomers, further selected from cross-linked polymers of dimethicone, cross-linked polymers of (dimethicone/phenyl divinyl methicone), cross-linked polymers of (dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone/methicone), cross-linked polymers of (dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone), and (diphenyl dimethicone/ vinyl diphenyl dimethicone/silsesquioxane), and their mixtures, more preferably chosen from crosslinked polymers of dimethicone, crosslinked polymers of vinyl dimethicone, crosslinked polymers of dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone, crosslinked polymers of dimethicone-3, polysilicone- 11, and their mixtures;

(d) approximately 0.1 to approximately 10% by weight, preferably approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight, of one or more emulsifiers of the copolyol dimethicone type comprising at least one oxyethylene group and at least one oxypropylene group, preferably one or more emulsifiers of the alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) type copolyol dimethicone comprising at least one oxyethylene group and at least one oxypropylene group, for example, bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 dimethicone, bis-copolymer isobutyl PEG/PPG-10/7 dimethicone, bis-PEG/PPG-18/6 dimethicone; bis-PEG/PPG-20/20 dimethicone, bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 dimethicone, cetyl PEG/PPG-15/16 butyl ether dimethicone, cetyl PEG/PPG-15/15 butyl ether dimethicone, cetyl PEG/PPG -7/3 dimethicone, cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone, dimethicone PEG/PPG-7/4 phosphate, dimethicone PEG/PPG-12/4 phosphate, PEG/PPG-28/21 dimethicone acetate, PEG/PPG -22/22 butyl ether dimethicone, PEG/PPG-23/23 butyl ether dimethicone, PEG/PPG-24/18 butyl ether dimethicone, PEG/PPG-3/10 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-4/12 dimethicone, PEG/ PPG-6/11 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-8/14 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-12/16 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-12/18 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-14/4 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-15/5 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-15/15 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-16/2 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-16/8 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-17/18 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/12 dimethicone, PEG/PPG -19/19 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/6 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/15 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/20 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/29 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-22/23 dimethicone , PEG/PPG-22/24 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-25/25 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-27/27 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-30/10 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-10/3 oleyl ether dimethicone, and mixtures thereof , preferably one of the one or more dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers is a dimethicone/PEG-10/15 crosslinked polymer;

wherein the weight ratio (c) to (d) is from about 5:1 to about 1:5, preferably from about 4:1 to about 1:4, more preferably from about 3:1 to about 1:3, and even more preferably from about 2:1 to about 1:2;

(e) from about 10 to about 50% by weight, preferably from about 15 to about 45% by weight of one or more preferably from about 25 to about 40% by weight of water; And

(f) from about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 10% by weight of one or more several water-soluble solvents, preferably one or more water-soluble solvents chosen from glycerin, C ₁ -C ₅ monoalcohols, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, and a mixture of these more preferably chosen from propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof;

(g) optionally, one or more miscellaneous ingredients, for example, miscellaneous ingredients selected from various emulsifiers/surfactants other than (d) dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers, preservatives, fragrances, pH correctors, salts, antioxidants, vitamins, botanical extracts , UV filtration agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and/or isolates, hydrotropes, beading agents, fillers, colorants, matting agents, other skin active agents, buffers, and mixtures thereof, preferably the miscellaneous ingredient(s) comprise a or more other skin active agents, where if present, the miscellaneous ingredient(s) may be in an amount of from about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 8 % by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 6% by weight;

wherein the composition is in the form of a water-in-silicone emulsion and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition.

In other embodiments, the cosmetic compositions in the form of water-in-silicone emulsions comprise or consist of:

(a) about 10 to about 50 weight percent, preferably about 15 to about 40 weight percent, more preferably about 25 to about 40 weight percent of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol;

(b) from about 10 to about 50% by weight, preferably from about 15 to about 40% by weight, more preferably from about 20 to about 30% by weight of one or more silicone oils, preferably one or more silicone oils chosen from dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclomethicone, phenyltrimethicone, and mixtures thereof, more preferably dimethicone;

(c) about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 5% by weight of one or more non-emulsifying silicone elastomers, in which the non-emulsifying silicone elastomer(s) are chosen from a dimethicone crosslinked polymer, a vinyldimethicone crosslinked polymer, a dimethicone/vinyldimethicone crosslinked polymer, a dimethicone-3 crosslinked polymer, a polysilicone-11, and mixtures thereof, preferably a polymer cross-linked dimethicone;

(d) about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, of one or more of one or more dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers comprising at least one oxyethylene group and at least one at least one oxypropylene group, preferably emulsifiers of the (C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) alkyl type dimethicone copolyol comprising at least one oxyethylene group and at least one oxypropylene group, for example, bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 dimethicone, copolymer bis-isobutyl PEG/PPG-10/7 dimethicone, bis-PEG/PPG-18/6 dimethicone; bis-PEG/PPG-20/20 dimethicone, bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 dimethicone, cetyl PEG/PPG-15/16 butyl ether dimethicone, cetyl PEG/PPG-15/15 butyl ether dimethicone, cetyl PEG/PPG -7/3 dimethicone, cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone, dimethicone PEG/PPG-7/4 phosphate, dimethicone PEG/PPG-12/4 phosphate, PEG/PPG-28/21 dimethicone acetate, PEG/PPG -22/22 butyl ether dimethicone, PEG/PPG-23/23 butyl ether dimethicone, PEG/PPG-24/18 butyl ether dimethicone, PEG/PPG-3/10 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-4/12 dimethicone, PEG/ PPG-6/11 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-8/14 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-12/16 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-12/18 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-14/4 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-15/5 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-15/15 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-16/2 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-16/8 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-17/18 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/12 dimethicone, PEG/PPG -19/19 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/6 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/15 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/20 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/29 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-22/23 dimethicone , PEG/PPG-22/24 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-25/25 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-27/27 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-30/10 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-10/3 oleyl ether dimethicone, and mixtures thereof , preferably one of the one or more dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers is a dimethicone/PEG-10/15 crosslinked polymer;

wherein the weight ratio (c) to (d) is from about 5:1 to about 1:5, preferably from about 4:1 to about 1:4, more preferably from about 3:1 to about 1:3, and even more preferably from about 2:1 to about 1:2;

(e) from about 10 to about 50% by weight, preferably from about 15 to about 45% by weight, from one or more preferably from about 25 to about 40% by weight of water; And

(f) from about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 10% by weight of one or more water-soluble solvents, preferably one or more water-soluble solvents chosen from glycerin, C ₁ -C ₅ monoalcohols, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, and a mixture of these more preferably chosen from propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof;

(g) from about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 6% by weight of one or more miscellaneous ingredients, wherein at least one of the one or more miscellaneous ingredients is another active agent for the skin, preferably madecassoside;

wherein the composition is preferably a water-in-silicone emulsion and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic compositions are stable. For example, in one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions do not visually phase shift or form visibly observable particles for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks of storage at 4°C, 25°C, 37 °C and/or 45°C.

In another embodiment, the cosmetic compositions do not visually phase shift or form visibly observable particles during at least 10 freeze-thaw test cycles, the freeze-thaw test comprising placement of the cosmetic composition in a stability chamber and subjecting it to a temperature fluctuation at 12 hour intervals, for a first interval of 12 hours at -20°C followed by a second interval of 12 hours at 25°C.

In one embodiment, the viscosity of the cosmetic compositions does not change by more than 20%, 15%, 10% or 5%, for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks of storage at 4°C. °C, 37°C and/or 45°C.

The cosmetic compositions preferably have a viscosity of about 5000 to about 200,000 Pa.s at 25°C, and a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 at 25°C. However, in other embodiments, the compositions have a viscosity of about 10,000 to about 200,000 Pa.s, about 10,000 to about 180,000 Pa.s, about 10,000 to about 150,000 Pa.s, from approximately 10,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, from approximately 10,000 to approximately 100,000 Pa.s, from approximately 10,000 to approximately 80,000 Pa.s, from approximately 15,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, approximately 15,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, approximately 15,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, approximately 15,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, approximately 15,000 to approximately 100,000 Pa.s, approximately 15,000 to approximately 80,000 Pa.s, approximately 20,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, approximately 20,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, approximately 20,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, approximately 20,000 to approximately 120 000 Pa.s, approximately 20,000 to approximately 100,000 Pa.s, approximately 20,000 to approximately 80,000 Pa.s, approximately 30,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, approximately 30,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, approximately 30,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, approximately 30,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, approximately 30,000 to approximately 100,000 Pa.s, approximately 30,000 to approximately 80,000 Pa.s, approximately 35,000 at approximately 200,000 Pa.s, from approximately 35,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, from approximately 35,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, from approximately 35,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, from approximately 35,000 to approximately 100,000 Pa.s, or from approximately 35,000 to approximately 80,000 Pa.s at 25°C, and a shear rate of 1 s-1 at 25°C.

Example 11

(Emulsion of ’ water in a silicone with l ’ hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol)

Inventive Comparative HAS B VS C-1 C-2 (has) Active HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL 30 30 30 30 30 (b) Silicone oil DIMETHICONE 25.1 25.1 22.5 25.1 25.1 (vs) Non-emulsifying silicone elastomer DIMETHICONE CROSS-LINKED POLYMER 2 2 2 2 (d) Dimethicone Copolyol Emulsifier CETYL PEG/PPG-10/1 DIMETHICONE 1.5 1.9 1.9 1.5 Report ( vs):( d) 1 , 3:1 1 , 1:1 1 , 1:1 N / A N / A (f) Water soluble solvent PROPYLENE GLYCOL 3.4 3.4 3.4 3.4 3.4 (g) MADECASSOSIDE 0.9 LAUROYL LYSINE 1 Various emulsifiers/surfactants, salts, preservatives, pH correctors, perfumes, colorants, antioxidants, chelators, and/or extracts, etc. ≤ 4 ≤ 4 ≤ 4 ≤ 4 ≤ 4 (e) WATER 35.4 35 35 37.3 36.9 Stability O O O NOT* NOT*

* The comparative compositions C-1 and C-2 did not form emulsions.

Example 12 (Stability test)

The compositions of Example 9 were subjected to stability studies and evaluated visually for phase shift and evaluated microscopically for particle formation. The visual color change of the compositions was also evaluated. The compositions were evaluated during initial composition manufacturing (T0). The compositions were estimated again after 10 days of freezing-thawing tests. The compositions were placed in a stability chamber and subjected to temperature variations at 12 hour intervals. For 12 hours, the compositions were maintained at -20°C. For the next 12 hours, the compositions were maintained at 25°C. The cycle was repeated 10 times (for 10 days).

Separately, the compositions of Example 9 were evaluated after 4 weeks (1 month) of storage at 4°C, 25°C, 37°C, and 45°C and again after 8 weeks (2 months) at 4 °C, 25 °C, 37 °C, and 45 °C and assessed visually for phase shift and assessed microscopically for particle formation.

Inventive compositions A and B were judged to be stable (“O”) (yes) because they did not visually phase out of phase, retained their color and did not form particles. The comparative compositions C-1 and C-2 were not subjected to the stability test because they did not form emulsions which could be the subject of other tests.

Water-in-silicone emulsions comprising of ’ hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol

In some embodiments, the cosmetic compositions in the form of a water-in-silicone emulsion include hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol. In one embodiment, the amount of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol in the cosmetic compositions is between approximately 15% by weight and approximately 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the amount of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol in the composition is about 15 to about 55 weight percent, about 15 to about 50 weight percent, about 15 to about 45 weight percent, d 'about 15 to about 40% by weight, about 15 to about 35% by weight, about 15 to about 30% by weight, about 25 to about 50% by weight, about 25 to about 45% by weight, about 25 to about 40% by weight, about 25 to about 35% by weight, about 30 to about 60% by weight, about 30 to about 55% by weight, about 30 to about 50% by weight, about 30 to about 45 % by weight, about 30 to about 40% by weight, about 35 to about 55% by weight, about 35 to about 60% by weight, about 35 to about 60% by weight, about 35 to about 60% by weight, about 35 to about 60% by weight. % by weight, about 35 to about 60% by weight, about 35 to about 50% by weight, about 35 to about 45% by weight, about 40 to about 60% by weight, about 40 to about 55% by weight, about 40 to about 50% by weight, about 45 to about 55% by weight, or about 50 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In certain embodiments, cosmetic compositions in the form of water-in-silicone emulsions include:

(a) hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, preferably in the quantities specified above;

(b) water;

(d) one or more silicone oils;

(d) one or more cross-linked emulsifying silicone elastomers; And

(e) one or more co-emulsifying silicones chosen from dimethicone copolyols;

wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of water in cosmetic compositions varies depending on the quantity of other components in the cosmetic compositions. However, in certain embodiments, the quantity of water in the composition can be between approximately 10 and approximately 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In other embodiments, the amount of water in the cosmetic composition is between about 10 and about 55 weight percent, about 10 and about 50 weight percent, about 15 and about 60 weight percent, about 15 and about 55% by weight, about 15 and about 50% by weight, about 15 and about 45% by weight, about 15 and about 40% by weight, about 15 and about 30% by weight, about 15 and about 25% by weight , about 20 and about 60% by weight, about 20 and about 55% by weight, about 20 and about 50% by weight, about 20 and about 45% by weight, about 20 and about 40% by weight, about 30 and about 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Non-limiting examples of silicone oils include dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclomethicone, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, cycloheptasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclotrisiloxane, capryldimethicone, caprylyl trimethicone, caprylyl methicone, cetearylmethicone, hexadecylmethic one, hexylmethicone, laurylmethicone, myristylmethicone, phenylmethicone, stearylmethicone, stearyl dimethicone, behenyl dimethicone, trifluoropropylmethicone, cetyl dimethicone, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, and phenyl trimethicone, and mixtures thereof. A more exhaustive but not exhaustive list of useful silicone oils is included under the heading “Silicone Oils”.

The total amount of silicone oils in cosmetic compositions will vary, but in some embodiments it ranges from about 5 to about 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In other embodiments, the total amount of one or more silicone oils is about 5 to about 20 weight percent, about 5 to about 15 weight percent, about 5 to about 12 weight percent. by weight, from about 6 to about 25% by weight, from about 6 to about 20% by weight, from about 6 to about 15% by weight or from about 6 to about 12% by weight, based on total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Non-limiting examples of cross-linked emulsifying silicone elastomers include polyoxyalkylenated emulsifying silicone elastomers, polyglycerolated emulsifying silicone elastomers and mixtures thereof. Additionally, non-limiting examples of polyoxyalkylenated emulsifying silicone elastomers include dimethicone/PEG-10/15 cross-linked polymer, PEG-15 lauryl dimethicone cross-linked polymer, PEG-15 lauryl dimethicone cross-linked polymer, PEG-15 lauryl dimethicone cross-linked polymer, cross-linked lauryl dimethicone PEG-10, cross-linked lauryl dimethicone polymer PEG-15, cross-linked dimethicone polymers PEG-12, dimethicones PEG-3 to PEG-32 (e.g., dimethicone PEG-10), cross-linked dimethicone/dimethicone PEG polymer /PPG 15, cross-linked polymer dimethicone PEG-10, cross-linked polymer dimethicone PEG-10/15, cross-linked polymer dimethicone PEG-15, cross-linked polymer dimethicone polyglycerin-3, cross-linked polymer dimethicone PPG-20, cross-linked polymer lauryl dimethicone PEG-15, polymer cross-linked lauryl dimethicone-polyglycerin-3, cross-linked polymer PEG-8 dimethicone-polysorbate-20, cross-linked polymer PEG-10 dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone, cross-linked polymer PEG-10 lauryl dimethicone, cross-linked polymer PEG-15/lauryl dimethicone, cross-linked polymer PEG- 15 laurylpolydimethylsiloxyethyl, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions may include two or more polyoxyalkylenated emulsifying silicone elastomers. A more exhaustive but non-limiting list of cross-linked emulsifying silicone elastomers is provided under the title “Cross-linked emulsifying silicone elastomers”.

The total amount of the one or more cross-linked emulsifying silicone elastomers varies, but in some embodiments is from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In other embodiments, the total amount of the cross-linked emulsifying silicone elastomer(s) is between about 0.1 and about 8 wt.%, about 0.1 and about 5 wt.%, about 0.1 and about 4% by weight, about 0.1 and about 3% by weight, about 0.5 and about 10% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, from about 1 to about 10% by weight, from about 1 to about 8% by weight, from about 1 to about 5% by weight, or from approximately 1 to approximately 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Non-limiting examples of selected silicone co-emulsifiers which are dimethicone copolyols include PEG-8 dimethicone benzoate, PEG-7 dimethicone phosphate, PEG-8 dimethicone phosphate, PEG-10 dimethicone phosphate, dimethicone PEG-7, PEG-8 dimethicone, PEG-9 dimethicone, PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone, PEG-14 dimethicone, PEG-17 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-3/10 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-4/ dimethicone 12, dimethicone PEG/PPG-17/18, cetyl dimethicone PEG/PPG-10/1, and mixtures thereof. Dimethicone PEG-10 is particularly preferred. A more exhaustive but non-limiting list of co-emulsifying silicones is provided under the title “Co-emulsifying silicones”.

The total amount of the optional co-emulsifying silicone(s), if present, will vary, but in some embodiments ranges from about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. cosmetic. In other embodiments, the total amount of the one or more co-emulsifying silicones is about 0.01 to about 4 weight percent, about 0.01 to about 3 weight percent, about 0 .01 to about 2 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 4 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 3 wt.%, or d approximately 0.1 to approximately 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions include one or more water-soluble solvents. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include glycerin, mono-alcohols, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols and a mixture thereof. In one embodiment, the water-soluble solvent(s) may be chosen from propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethanol, isopropanol, t-butyl alcohol, and a mixture of these. A more exhaustive but non-limiting list of useful water-soluble solvents is provided under the heading “Water-Soluble Solvents”.

The total amount of the water-soluble solvent(s) can and will vary, but in some embodiments ranges from about 1 to about 45% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In various embodiments, the total amount of the one or more water-soluble solvents is about 1 to about 40 wt.%, about 1 to about 35 wt.%, about 1 to about 30 wt.% by weight, from about 3 to about 45% by weight, from about 3 to about 40% by weight, about 3 to about 35% by weight, about 3 to about 30% by weight, about 3 to about 25% by weight weight, about 5 to about 45% by weight, about 5 to about 40% by weight, about 5 to about 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions include one or more silicone powders. Non-limiting examples include are chosen from crosslinked polymer (dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone), crosslinked polymer (dimethicone/phenyl vinyl dimethicone), crosslinked polymer (vinyl dimethicone/lauryl dimethicone), crosslinked polymer (vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane), (diphenyl dimethicone /vinyl diphenyl dimethicone/silsesquioxane), cross-linked polymer polysilicone-1, polysilicone-22, polyalkylsilsesquioxane (e.g., polymethylsilsesquioxane), polysilicone-11, and polyarylsilsesquioxane, and mixtures thereof.

Silicone powders can be added to cosmetic compositions but typically do not remain in powder form after incorporation into cosmetic compositions. Silicone powders will generally be solubilized after their incorporation into cosmetic compositions. Non-limiting examples of silicone powders include cross-linked polymer (dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone), cross-linked polymer (dimethicone/phenyl vinyl dimethicone), cross-linked polymer (vinyl dimethicone/lauryl dimethicone), cross-linked polymer (vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane), cross-linked polymer (diphenyl dimethicone/vinyl diphenyl dimethicone/silsesquioxane), cross-linked polymer polysilicone-1, polysilicone-22, polyalkylsilsesquioxane (e.g., polymethylsilsesquioxane). Preferred silicone powders include polyalkylsilsesquioxane (e.g., polymethylsilsesquioxane), vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane, polysilicone-11, and mixtures thereof.

The total amount of one or more silicone powders in the cosmetic compositions varies but, in some embodiments, is between about 0.1 and about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In other embodiments, the total amount of the one or more silicone powders is about 0.1 to about 4 weight percent, about 0.1 to about 3 weight percent, about 0. 1 to about 2% by weight, about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, about 0.5 to about 2 % by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, about 1 to about 4% by weight, about 1 to about 3% by weight, or about 1 to about 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition .

In one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions may optionally include one or more miscellaneous ingredients. Non-limiting examples of miscellaneous ingredients include various emulsifiers/surfactants other than (d) dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers, preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts, UV filter agents, proteins, hydrolysates and/or protein isolates, hydrotropes, pearling agents, fillers, dyes, mattifying agents, other active agents for skin, depigmenting agents, anti-wrinkle agents, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition includes at least one other active agent for the skin, for example, madecassoside. A more exhaustive but non-exhaustive list of various ingredients is provided under the heading “Miscellaneous Ingredients”.

The miscellaneous ingredients may be included in the cosmetic composition, for example, in an amount of about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The total amount of the one or more miscellaneous ingredients may be from about 0.01 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.01 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 3% by weight weight, from about 1 to about 10% by weight, from about 1 to about 8% by weight, from about 1 to about 5% by weight, or from about 1 to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions in the form of water-in-silicone emulsions comprise or consist of:

(a) about 10 to about 55 weight percent, preferably about 20 to about 55 weight percent, more preferably about 30 to about 50 weight percent of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol;

(b) about 15 to about 50% by weight, preferably about 20 to about 50% by weight, more preferably about 25 to about 50% by weight of water;

(c) about 5 to about 25% by weight of one or more silicone oils, preferably one or more non-volatile silicone oils, more preferably one or more silicone oils selected from dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone, amodimethicone, and mixtures thereof, preferably one or more of the silicone oils is dimethicone;

(d) about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 4% by weight of one or more crosslinked emulsifying silicone elastomers, preferably one or more polyoxyalkylenated emulsifying silicone elastomers, more preferably chosen from dimethicone/PEG-10/15 crosslinked polymer, PEG-15 lauryl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-15 lauryl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-15 lauryl dimethicone crosslinked polymer , cross-linked polymer lauryl dimethicone PEG-10, cross-linked polymer lauryl dimethicone PEG-15, cross-linked polymers of dimethicone PEG-12, cross-linked polymer dimethicone/dimethicone PEG/PPG 15, cross-linked polymer dimethicone PEG-10, cross-linked polymer dimethicone PEG-10/15 , cross-linked polymer dimethicone PEG-15, cross-linked polymer dimethicone polyglycerin-3, cross-linked polymer dimethicone PPG-20, cross-linked polymer lauryl dimethicone PEG-15, cross-linked polymer lauryl dimethicone polyglycerin-3, cross-linked polymer PEG-8 dimethicone polysorbate-20, cross-linked polymer PEG-10 dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone, PEG-10 lauryl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-15/lauryl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-15 laurylpolydimethylsiloxy ethyl crosslinked polymer, and mixtures thereof, more preferably dimethicone/PEG-10/crosslinked polymer 15;

(e) about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.01 to about 3% by weight, more preferably about 0.1 to about 2% by weight of the one or more co-emulsifying silicones selected among dimethicone copolyols, for example, dimethicone copolyols chosen from dimethicone PEG-8 benzoate, dimethicone PEG-7 phosphate, dimethicone PEG-8 phosphate, dimethicone PEG-10 phosphate, dimethicone PEG-7, dimethicone PEG-8 , dimethicone PEG-9, dimethicone PEG-10, dimethicone PEG-12, dimethicone PEG-14, dimethicone PEG-17, dimethicone PEG/PPG-3/10, dimethicone PEG/PPG-4/12, dimethicone PEG/PPG-17 /18, cetyl dimethicone PEG/PPG-10/1, and mixtures thereof, in particular dimethicone PEG-10;

(f) optionally, one or more water-soluble solvents, for example, glycerin, C ₂ -C ₆ monoalcohols, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, and a mixture thereof, wherein, if present, the water-soluble solvent(s) may optionally be present in an amount of about 5 to about 45% by weight, preferably about 10 to about 40% by weight, so more preferred about 15 to about 35 weight percent;

(g) optionally, one or more silicone powders, for example, cross-linked polymer (dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone), cross-linked polymer (dimethicone/phenyl vinyl dimethicone), cross-linked polymer (vinyl dimethicone/lauryl dimethicone), cross-linked polymer (vinyl dimethicone/ methicone silsesquioxane), cross-linked polymer (diphenyl dimethicone/vinyl diphenyl dimethicone/silsesquioxane), cross-linked polymer polysilicone-1, polysilicone-22, polyalkylsilsesquioxane (e.g. polymethylsilsesquioxane). Preferred silicone powders include polyalkylsilsesquioxane (e.g., polymethylsilsesquioxane), vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane, polysilicone-11, and mixtures thereof, where, if present, they may be in an amount of about 0, 1 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 3% by weight;

(h) optionally, one or more miscellaneous ingredients, for example, miscellaneous ingredients selected from various emulsifiers/surfactants different from the cross-linked emulsifier silicone elastomers of (d), preservatives, fragrances, pH correctors, salts, antioxidants, vitamins, extracts botanicals, UV filtration agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and/or isolates, hydrotropes, beading agents, fillers, colorants, matting agents, other skin active agents, buffers, and mixtures thereof, where, if present, they may be in an amount of about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 6% by weight;

wherein the composition is preferably a water-in-silicone emulsion and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions in the form of water-in-silicone emulsions comprise or consist of:

(a) about 10 to about 55 weight percent, preferably about 20 to about 55 weight percent, more preferably about 30 to about 50 weight percent of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol;

(b) about 15 to about 50% by weight, preferably about 20 to about 50% by weight, more preferably about 25 to about 50% by weight of water;

(c) about 5 to about 25% by weight of one or more silicone oils, preferably one or more non-volatile silicone oils, more preferably one or more silicone oils selected from dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone and amodimethicone, in particular dimethicone;

(d) about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 4% by weight of one or more crosslinked emulsifying silicone elastomers, preferably one or more polyoxyalkylenated emulsifying silicone elastomers, more preferably chosen from dimethicone/PEG-10/15 crosslinked polymer, PEG-15 lauryl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, lauryl dimethicone PEG-15 crosslinked polymer, lauryl crosslinked polymer dimethicone PEG-15, lauryl dimethicone crosslinked polymer PEG-10, lauryl dimethicone crosslinked polymer PEG-15, dimethicone crosslinked polymers PEG-12, dimethicone/dimethicone crosslinked polymer PEG/PPG 15, dimethicone dimethicone crosslinked polymer PEG-10 , cross-linked polymer dimethicone PEG-10/15, cross-linked polymer dimethicone PEG-15, cross-linked polymer dimethicone polyglycerin-3, cross-linked polymer dimethicone PPG-20, cross-linked polymer lauryl dimethicone PEG-15, cross-linked polymer lauryl dimethicone polyglycerin-3, cross-linked polymer PEG -8 dimethicone polysorbate-20, PEG-10 dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone cross-linked polymer, PEG-10 lauryl dimethicone cross-linked polymer, PEG-15/lauryl dimethicone cross-linked polymer, PEG-15 laurylpolydimethylsiloxy ethyl cross-linked polymer, and mixtures thereof, and further preferred cross-linked polymer dimethicone/PEG-10/15;

(e) about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.01 to about 3% by weight, more preferably about 0.1 to about 2% by weight of the one or more co-emulsifying silicones selected among dimethicone copolyols, for example, dimethicone copolyols chosen from dimethicone PEG-8 benzoate, dimethicone PEG-7 phosphate, dimethicone PEG-8 phosphate, dimethicone PEG-10 phosphate, dimethicone PEG-7, dimethicone PEG-8 , dimethicone PEG-9, dimethicone PEG-10, dimethicone PEG-12, dimethicone PEG-14, dimethicone PEG-17, dimethicone PEG/PPG-3/10, dimethicone PEG/PPG-4/12, dimethicone PEG/PPG-17 /18, cetyl dimethicone PEG/PPG-10/1, and mixtures thereof, in particular dimethicone PEG-10;

(f) about 5 to about 45% by weight, preferably about 10 to about 40% by weight, more preferably about 15 to about 35% by weight of one or more water-soluble solvents, for example, glycerin, C ₂ -C ₆ monoalcohols, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, and a mixture thereof;

(g) approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight, preferably approximately 0.1 to approximately 4% by weight, more preferably approximately 0.5 to approximately 3% by weight of one or more silicone powders, for example, cross-linked polymer (dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone), cross-linked polymer (dimethicone/phenyl vinyl dimethicone), cross-linked polymer (vinyl dimethicone/lauryl dimethicone), cross-linked polymer (vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane), cross-linked polymer (diphenyl dimethicone/vinyl diphenyl dimethicone/silsesquioxane), cross-linked polymer polysilicone-1, polysilicone-22, polyalkylsilsesquioxane (e.g., polymethylsilsesquioxane), polysilicone-11, and mixtures thereof, preferably polyalkylsilsesquioxane (e.g., polymethylsilsesquioxane), vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane, polysilesquioxane 11, and mixtures thereof, more preferably polymethylsilsesquioxane;

(h) from about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 6% by weight of one or more miscellaneous ingredients, for example, miscellaneous ingredients selected from various emulsifiers/surfactants different from (d) cross-linked emulsifiers silicone elastomers, preservatives, fragrances, pH correctors, salts, antioxidants, vitamins, botanical extracts , UV filtration agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and/or isolates, hydrotropes, beading agents, fillers, colorants, mattifying agents, other skin active agents, buffers, and their mixtures;

wherein the composition is preferably a water-in-silicone emulsion and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic compositions are stable. For example, in one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions do not visually phase shift or form visibly observable particles for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks of storage at 4°C, 25°C, 37 °C and/or 45°C.

In another embodiment, the cosmetic compositions do not visually phase shift or form visibly observable particles during at least 10 freeze-thaw test cycles, the freeze-thaw test comprising placement of the cosmetic composition in a stability chamber and subjecting it to a temperature fluctuation at 12 hour intervals, for a first interval of 12 hours at -20°C followed by a second interval of 12 hours at 25°C.

In one embodiment, the viscosity of the cosmetic compositions does not change by more than 20%, 15%, 10% or 5%, for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks of storage at 4°C. °C, 37°C and/or 45°C.

The cosmetic compositions preferably have a viscosity of about 5000 to about 200,000 Pa.s at 25°C, and a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 at 25°C. However, in other embodiments, the compositions have a viscosity of about 10,000 to about 200,000 Pa.s, about 10,000 to about 180,000 Pa.s, about 10,000 to about 150,000 Pa.s, from approximately 10,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, from approximately 10,000 to approximately 100,000 Pa.s, from approximately 10,000 to approximately 80,000 Pa.s, from approximately 15,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, approximately 15,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, approximately 15,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, approximately 15,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, approximately 15,000 to approximately 100,000 Pa.s, approximately 15,000 to approximately 80,000 Pa.s, approximately 20,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, approximately 20,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, approximately 20,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, approximately 20,000 to approximately 120 000 Pa.s, approximately 20,000 to approximately 100,000 Pa.s, approximately 20,000 to approximately 80,000 Pa.s, approximately 30,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, approximately 30,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, approximately 30,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, approximately 30,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, approximately 30,000 to approximately 100,000 Pa.s, approximately 30,000 to approximately 80,000 Pa.s, approximately 35,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, about 35,000 to about 180,000 Pa.s, about 35,000 to about 150,000 Pa.s, about 35,000 to about 120,000 Pa.s, about 35,000 to about 100,000 Pa.s, or about 35,000 to approximately 80,000 Pa.s at 25°C, and a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 at 25°C.

Example 13

(Water-in-silicone emulsions with ’ Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol)

HAS B VS D E F G C-1 (has) Active HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDRO-PYRANTRIOL 10 20 30.4 47.4 50.1 50.1 50.1 15 (vs) Silicone oil DIMETHICON 10.7 10.7 10.7 10.7 10.9 6.5 8.0 71.8 (d) Cross-linked emulsifying silicone elastomer DIMETHICONE/PEG-10/15 CROSSPOLYMER 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3 2.0 1.3 (e) Co-Emulsifier DIMETHICONE PEG-10 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 (f) Water soluble solvent GLYCERIN, PROPANEDIOL,
PROPYLENE GLYCOL, DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL, AND/OR ETHANOL 27.1 29.3 23.5 20.4 5.7 5.7 10.7 1.7 (g) Silicone powder POLYMETHYL-SILSESQUIOXANE 1 0.5 1 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 (h) Various emulsifiers/surfactants, emollients, salts, preservatives, pH correctors, perfumes, dyes, chelators and/or extracts, etc. ≤ 4 ≤ 4 ≤ 4 ≤ 4 ≤ 4 ≤ 4 ≤ 4 ≤ 4 (b) WATER 48 36 31 18 29 34 27 8 Stable O O O O O O O NOT*

*N - The composition (C-1) shifted out of phase within 2 hours.

Example 14 (Stability test)

The compositions of Example 13 were subjected to stability studies and evaluated visually for phase shift and estimated microscopically for particle formation. The compositions were analyzed during the initial manufacture of the composition (T ₀ ). The compositions were analyzed again after 10 days of freezing-thawing tests. For the freeze-thaw test, the compositions were placed in a stability chamber and subjected to temperature fluctuations at 12 hour intervals. For 12 hours, the compositions were maintained at -20°C. For the next 12 hours, the compositions were maintained at 25°C. The cycle was repeated 10 times (for 10 days). Separately, the compositions of Example 1 were evaluated after 4 weeks (1 month) of storage at 4°C, 25°C, 37°C and 45°C and again after 8 weeks (2 months) at 4°C. C, 25°C, 37°C and 45°C and assessed visually for phase shift and estimated microscopically for particle formation. Viscosity was also evaluated.

The inventive compositions were judged to be stable ("O") (yes) because they did not visually shift out of phase, did not form particles and maintained a viscosity of at least 10% (the change in viscosity was not greater than to ± 10%). The comparative composition C-1 was judged to be non-stable (“N”) (no) because it shifted out of phase within 2 hours of its formation.

Anhydrous compositions

The anhydrous compositions in the present case are substantially free of water, that is to say they contain less than 2% by weight of water. In some cases, however, the anhydrous compositions contain less than 1% by weight of water, less than 0.5% by weight of water, less than 0.1% by weight of water, or less than 0.05 % by weight of water. The anhydrous compositions are further characterized by containing at least 90% by weight of ingredients having a log P value of 2 or less, e.g. 1.5 or less, 1 or less, 0.75 or less , 0.5 or less, 0.25 or 0. The log P value of a compound is the logarithm (base 10) of the partition coefficient (P), which is defined as the ratio of the organic phase (oil) concentrations of the compound on aqueous phase:

Partition coefficient (P) = [organic] / [aqueous], where [ ] is the concentration of the compound in that solvent phase log P = Log 10 (P)

The log P of a compound is constant for a given specific pair of aqueous and organic solvents, and its value can be determined empirically by one of several phase partitioning methods known in the art. However, the log P value calculated for a compound in water relative to a simple organic compound such as octanol or hexane can provide a guideline for predicting its solubility characteristics in other aqueous and organic solvents. . For example, a compound with a measured log P of 1 indicates that its concentration is in a 10:1 ratio between the organic phase and the aqueous phase. This compound is hydrophobic and requires dissolution in an organic solvent. On the other hand, a compound whose measured log P is equal to -1 indicates that its concentration is in a ratio of 1:10 between the organic phase and the aqueous phase. This compound is hydrophilic and can be dissolved directly in an aqueous buffer. Finally, a compound whose log P is equal to 0 is distributed in a ratio of 1:1 between the organic phase and the aqueous phase; therefore, the compound is likely soluble in both organic solvent and aqueous solvent.

The anhydrous compositions include one or more active agents, preferably one or more active agents that are soluble in the anhydrous composition. Non-limiting examples of useful active agents include ascorbic acid, ferulic acid, or a mixture thereof.

In one embodiment, the anhydrous compositions include less than 2% by weight of water, preferably less than 1% by weight of water, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight of water, and :

(a) one or more active agents, preferably one or more active agents which are soluble in the anhydrous compositions;

(b) one or more water-soluble solvents;

(c) one or more thickening polymers; And

(d) optionally, one or more miscellaneous ingredients.

The total amount of the one or more active agents in the anhydrous composition may vary but is typically from about 1 to about 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the anhydrous composition. In various embodiments, the total amount of the one or more active agents in the anhydrous compositions is about 1 to about 20 weight percent, about 1 to about 18 weight percent, about 1 to about 15 weight percent. by weight, from about 2 to about 20% by weight, from about 2 to about 18% by weight, from about 2 to about 15% by weight, from about 5 to about 20% by weight, from about 5 to about 18% by weight, or from about 5 to about 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the anhydrous composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the anhydrous composition includes ascorbic acid. The total amount of ascorbic acid in the anhydrous composition can vary but is typically from about 1 to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the anhydrous composition. In various embodiments, the total amount of ascorbic acid in the anhydrous composition is about 1 to about 18 wt.%, about 1 to about 15 wt.%, about 2 to about 20 wt.% , from about 2 to about 18% by weight, from about 2 to about 15% by weight, from about 5 to about 20% by weight, from about 5 to about 18% by weight or from about 5 to approximately 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the anhydrous composition includes ferulic acid. The total amount of ferulic acid in the anhydrous composition can vary but is typically between about 0.1 and about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the anhydrous composition. In various embodiments, the total amount of ferulic acid is about 0.1 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 10 wt.% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, from about 1 to about 10% by weight, from about 1 to about 8% by weight , or from about 1 to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.

Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include glycerin, mono-alcohols, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols and a mixture thereof. In one embodiment, the water-soluble solvent(s) may be chosen from propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethanol, isopropanol, t-butyl alcohol, and a mixture of these. A more exhaustive but non-limiting list of useful water-soluble solvents is provided under the heading “Water-Soluble Solvents”.

The total amount of the water-soluble solvent(s) varies, but in various embodiments ranges from about 50 to about 95 weight percent, based on the total weight of the anhydrous composition. In other embodiments, the total amount of the one or more water-soluble solvents is about 60 to about 95 weight percent, about 70 to about 95 weight percent, about 75 to about 95% by weight, about 60 to 90% by weight, about 70 to about 90% by weight, about 80 to about 90% by weight.

Useful thickening polymers include, among others, taurate copolymers. Non-limiting examples include acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, and mixtures thereof. A more exhaustive but non-limiting list of useful thickening polymers is included under the heading "Thickening Polymers." »

Generally, the quantity of the one or more thickening polymers will vary depending on the type of thickening polymers used; and depending on the desired viscosity of the cosmetic composition. Therefore, in one embodiment, the total amount of the one or more thickening agents is sufficient to obtain the viscosities specified in the present disclosure. However, in various embodiments, the total amount of the thickening polymer(s) may be between about 0.01 and about 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In various embodiments, the amount of the thickening polymer(s) may range from about 0.01 to about 6 wt.%, from about 0.01 to about 5 wt.%, from about 0.01 to about 3 % by weight, from 0.1 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, or from about 0.1 to about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.

In some embodiments, the anhydrous compositions include one or more miscellaneous ingredients. Non-limiting examples include preservatives, fragrances, pH correctors, salts, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts, UV filtration agents, proteins, hydrolysates and/or protein isolates, hydrotropes, pearling agents, fillers, colorants, mattifying agents, other skin active agents, depigmenting agents, anti-wrinkle agents, etc. A more exhaustive but non-limiting list of various ingredients which may be included in the anhydrous composition is provided under the heading “Miscellaneous Ingredients.” »

The total amount of the one or more miscellaneous ingredients, if present, varies but, in some embodiments, ranges from about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the anhydrous composition. The total amount of the one or more miscellaneous ingredients may be from about 0.01 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.01 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, or about 1 to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the anhydrous composition.

Example 15

(Anhydrous compositions with ’ ascorbic acid and ’ ferulic acid)

HAS B Active ASCORBIC ACID 12 12 Active FERULIC ACID 1.5 3.0 Thickening polymer AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE 0.3 0.2 Water soluble solvent GLYCERIN 23.2 43.2 PROPYLENE GLYCOL 48 14.7 DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL 13.5 24.5 BUTYLENE GLYCOL 2.5 Extract POLYGONUM CUSPIDATUM ROOT EXTRACT 1.5 WATER ≤ 0.01 ≤ 0.01

Water-soluble solvents

The term "water-soluble solvent" is interchangeable with the term "water-miscible solvent" and refers to a compound that is liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and it has a solubility of at least 50% in water under these conditions. In one embodiment, the water-soluble solvents have a solubility of at least 60%, 70%, 80% or 90%. Non-limiting examples of one or more water-soluble solvents are chosen from glycerin, mono-alcohols, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols and a mixture of these.

As non-limiting examples of organic solvents, mention may be made of monoalcohols and polyols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, 4-tert -butylcyclohexanol, and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ether of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or their ethers such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol. Other suitable examples of organic solvents are ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propane diol and glycerin. Organic solvents can be volatile or non-volatile compounds.

Other non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include alkanediols (polyhydric alcohols) such as glycerin, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, (caprylyl glycol), 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2- pentanediol, and 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol and isopropanol; glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ether diethylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, ethylene mono-t-butyl ether glycol, diethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, 1-methyl-1-methoxybutanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, propylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, mono ether -iso-propyl of propylene glycol, monomethyl ether of dipropylene glycol, monoethyl ether of dipropylene glycol, mono-n-propyl ether of dipropylene glycol and mono-iso-propyl ether of dipropylene glycol; 2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, 1,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, dimethyl sulfoxide, sorbit, sorbitan, acetin, diacetin, triacetin, sulfolane, and a mixture thereof.

Polyhydric alcohols are also useful. Examples of polyhydric alcohols include glycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4- butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, and a mixture thereof. Polyol compounds can also be used. Non-limiting examples include aliphatic diols, such as 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3- propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1, 2-diol and 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, and a mixture thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure include one or more glycols and/or one or more alcohols, for example, one or more water-soluble solvents selected from propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

Fatty compounds

The term “fatty compounds” is interchangeable with “fat”. Fatty compounds are known as compounds that are not soluble (or only poorly soluble) in water; they are hydrophilic and are often solubilized in organic solvents. They include materials such as oils, fats, waxes, hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty esters, etc. Silicones are not considered fatty compounds according to this disclosure. Non-limiting examples of useful fatty compounds include oils, waxes, alkanes (paraffins), fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty esters, triglyceride compounds, lanolin, hydrocarbons, their derivatives and mixtures thereof. Fatty compounds are described by the International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists, for example, in Cosmetic Raw Material Analysis and Quality, Volume I: Hydrocarbons, Glycerides, Waxes and Other Esters (Redwood Books, 1994).

Non-limiting examples of fatty compounds include oils, mineral oils, alkanes (paraffins), fatty acids, fatty alcohol derivatives, fatty acid derivatives, fatty alcohol esters, hydroxy fatty acids. -substituted, waxes, triglyceride compounds, lanolin and a mixture thereof.

Derivatives of ’ fatty alcohols

Fatty compounds may include one or more fatty alcohol derivatives, which are different from fatty alcohols (component (d)). Fatty alcohol derivatives include fatty esters derived from one or more fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohol derivatives also include alkoxylated fatty alcohols, for example, having about 1 to about 100 moles of an alkylene oxide per mole of alkoxylated fatty alcohol. For example, alkoxylated fatty alcohols can be alkoxylated with about 1 to about 80 moles, about 2 to about 50, about 5 to about 45 moles, about 10 to about 40 moles, or 15 to about 35 moles, including all ranges. and intermediate subranges, of one alkylene oxide per mole of alkoxylated fatty alcohol.

Examples of alkoxylated fatty alcohols include steareth (for example, 2-steareth, 20-steareth and 21-steareth), laureth (for example, 4-laureth and 12-laureth), ceteareth (for example, ceteareth -10 and ceteareth -20) and ceteareth (for example, ceteareth -2, ceteareth -10 and ceteareth -20). In at least one case, the alkoxylated fatty alcohol(s) includes 20-steareth. In certain cases, the alkoxylated fatty alcohol(s) may be exclusively 20-steareth.

Other fatty alcohol derivatives which may optionally be suitable include methyl stearyl ether; 2-ethylhexyl dodecyl ether; stearyl acetate; cetyl propionate; the series of ceteth compounds, such as ceteth-1 to ceteth-45, which are ethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, where the numerical designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; the series of steareth compounds such as steareth-1 to 10, which are ethylene glycol ethers of the alcohol steareth, where the numerical designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; ceteareth-1 to ceteareth-10, which are the ethylene glycol ethers of ceteareth alcohol, i.e. a mixture of fatty alcohols containing mainly cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, in which the numerical designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; the C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl ethers of the ceteth, steareth and ceteareth compounds described above; polyoxyethylene ethers of branched alcohols such as octyldodecyl alcohol, dodecylpentadecyl alcohol, hexyldecyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol; polyoxyethylene ethers of behenyl alcohol; PPG ethers such as PPG-9 stearic ether, PPG-11 stearyl ether, PPG-8 cetyl ether and PPG-10 cetyl ether; and their mixtures.

Fatty acids

In certain cases, the fatty compounds may be chosen from fatty acids, fatty acid derivatives, fatty acid esters, hydroxyl-substituted fatty acids and alkoxylated fatty acids. The fatty acids may be straight or branched chain acids and/or may be saturated or unsaturated. Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include diacids, triacids and other multiple acids as well as salts of these fatty acids. For example, the fatty acid may optionally include or be chosen from lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arichidonic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic acid, and a mixture thereof. In some cases, the fatty acids are selected from the group consisting of palmitic acid, stearic acid and a mixture thereof.

Non-limiting examples of polyglycerol esters of fatty acids include those of the following formula:

wherein the average value of n is approximately 3 and R ¹ , R ² and R ³ may each independently be a fatty acid moiety or a hydrogen atom, provided that at least one of R ¹ , R ² and R ³ is a fatty acid fraction. For example, R ¹ , R ² and R ³ can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and have a length of C ₁ -C ₄₀ , C ₁ -C ₃₀ , C ₁ -C ₂₅ , or C ₁ -C ₂₀ , C ₁ -C ₁₆ , or C ₁ -C ₁₀ .

Fatty acid derivatives are defined herein to include fatty acid esters of fatty alcohols as defined above, fatty acid esters of fatty alcohol derivatives as defined above when these derivatives of Fatty alcohols have an esterifiable hydroxyl group, fatty acid esters of alcohols other than fatty alcohols and fatty alcohol derivatives described above, hydroxy-substituted fatty acids, and a mixture thereof. Non-limiting examples of fatty acid derivatives include ricinoleic acid, glycerol monostearate, 12-hydroxystearic acid, ethyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl palmitate, polyoxyethylene cetyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene cetyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene stearyl, polyoxyethylene lauryl ether stearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, polyoxyethylene monostearate, polyoxyethylene distearate, propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol distearate, trimethylolpropane distearate, sorbitan stearate, polyglyceryl stearate, dimethyl sebacate , PEG-15 cocoate, PPG-15 stearate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate, glycerylristearate, PEG-8 laurate, PPG-2 isostearate, PPG-9 laurate, and a mixture thereof . Glycerol monostearate, 12-hydroxystearic acid, and a mixture thereof are preferred for use herein.

Fatty alcohols

The term “fatty alcohol” means an alcohol comprising at least one hydroxyl group (OH), and comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, and which is neither oxyalkylenated (in particular neither oxyethylenated nor oxypropylenated) nor glycerol. The fatty alcohols can be represented by: R-OH, where R denotes a saturated (alkyl) or unsaturated (alkenyl), linear or branched group, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

The fatty alcohol(s) may be liquid or solid. In certain cases, it is preferable for the cosmetic compositions to include at least one solid fatty alcohol. Usable solid fatty alcohols include those which are solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure (25°C, 780 mmHg), and which are insoluble in water, i.e. they have solubility in water. water less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, at 25 °C, 1 atm.

Solid fatty alcohols can be represented by: R-OH, where R denotes a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, from more preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, even more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

Non-limiting examples of useful fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol or lauryl alcohol (1-dodecanol); myristic or myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (1-tetracosanol); cerylic alcohol (1-hexacosanol); montanylic alcohol (1-octacosanol); myricylic alcohol (1-triacontanol), and mixtures thereof.

In some embodiments, the fatty alcohol(s) have 12 to 24 carbon atoms. Specific non-limiting examples include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristic or myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, or their mixtures.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition includes one or more solid fatty alcohols, for example chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, preferably cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

Liquid fatty alcohols, in particular those in C ₁₀ -C ₃₄ , preferably have branched carbon chains and/or have one or more double bonds, preferably 1 to 3. They are preferably branched and/or unsaturated (double bond C=C) and contain 12 to 40 carbon atoms.

Liquid fatty alcohols can be represented by: R-OH, where R denotes a branched C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ alkyl group or an alkenyl group (comprising at least one C=C double bond in C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ ), R being optionally substituted with one or more hydroxy groups. Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohol is a branched saturated alcohol. Preferably, R does not contain a hydroxyl group. These alcohols include oleic alcohol, linoleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyl-1-dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl-1-decanol , 2-decyl-1-tetradecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1-cetanol and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohol is 2-octyl-1-dodecanol.

In certain cases, the cosmetic compositions include one or more fatty alcohols chosen from decyl alcohol, undecyl, dodecyl, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and a mixture thereof. In some cases, the cosmetic compositions preferably include cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol.

Raincoats

The fatty compounds may, in certain cases, include or be chosen from one or more waxes. Non-limiting examples of waxes in this category include, for example, synthetic wax, ceresin, paraffin, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, illipé butter, beeswax, carnauba wax, microcrystalline wax, lanolin , derivatives of lanolin, candelilla, cocoa butter, shellac wax, spermaceti, bran wax, kapok wax, sugar cane wax, lignite wax, brown wax whale, berry wax, acacia flower wax, vegetable waxes (such as sunflower seed (helianthus annuus), carnauba, candelilla, ouricury or japan waxes or fiber waxes cork or sugar cane), or a mixture of these.

Oils

In some cases, the fatty compounds may include or be selected from one or more oils. Suitable oils include, but are not limited to, natural oils, such as coconut oil; hydrocarbons, such as mineral oil and hydrogenated polyisobutene; fatty alcohols, such as octyldodecanol; esters, such as a C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate; diesters, such as propylene dipelarganate; and triesters, such as glyceryl trioctanoate. Non-limiting examples of oils that may optionally be included in the cosmetic compositions include isotridecyl isononanoate, PEG-4 diheptanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, tridecyl neopentanoate, cetyl octanoate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl ricinoleate , cetyl stearate, cetyl myristate, coco caprate/dicaprylate, decyl isostearate, isodecyl oleate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isohexyl neopentanoate, octyl palmitate, dioctyl malate, tridecyl octanoate, myristyl myristate , octododecanol, or combinations of octyldodecanol, acetylated lanolin alcohol, cetyl acetate, isododecanol, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, castor oil, lanolin and lanolin derivatives, triisocetyl citrate, sorbitan sesquioleate, C ₁₀ -C triglycerides ₁₈ , caprylic/capric/triglycerides, coconut oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, glyceryl triacetyl hydroxystearate, glyceryl triacetyl ricinoleate, glyceryl trioctanoate, hydrogenated castor oil, flaxseed oil, mink oil, olive, palm oil, olive butter, rapeseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, tallow, tricaprine, trihydrostearin, triisostearin, trilaurine, trilinolein, trimyristin, triolein, tripalmitin, sadearin, walnut oil, germ oil wheat, cholesterol, or combinations thereof.

In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include one or more fatty compounds chosen from fatty esters (such as isononyl isononanoate), polyolefins (such as petrolatum), waxes, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene, mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, plant and/or vegetable oil, hydrocarbon-based oils (such as isohexadecane), or a mixture thereof.

Thickening polymers

Non-limiting examples of various types of thickening polymers include taurate copolymer, polyacrylate, polymethacrylate, polyethylacrylate, polyacrylamide, C _10-30 alkyl polyacrylate, acrylic acid/acrylonitrogen copolymer, acrylates/steareth-20 itaconate copolymer, acrylates/ceteth-20 itaconate, acrylates/aminoacrylates/C _10-30 alkyl itaconate copolymer PEG-20, acrylates/aminoacrylates copolymer, acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, copolymer cross-linked acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate, cross-linked acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate/HEMA copolymer, cross-linked acrylates/vinyl neodecanoate copolymer, cross-linked acrylates/vinyl isodecanoate copolymer, acrylates/palmethyl-25 acrylate copolymer, acrylic acid/copolymer acrylamidomethylpropane sulfonic acid, and crosslinked polymer of acrylates/10-30 alkyl acrylate, carbomers, hydrophobically modified polypolyacrylates; hydrophobically modified acrylic polyacids, hydrophobically modified polyacrylamides; hydrophobically modified polyethers, these materials being able to have a hydrophobic which can be chosen from cetyl, stearyl, oleyl and their combinations, acrylamide/ammonium acrylate copolymer, acrylates copolymer, crosslinked copolymer of acrylates-4, crosslinked copolymer of acrylates- 3, acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, cross-linked acrylates/C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl acrylate copolymer, acrylates/steareth-20 itaconate copolymer, ammonium polyacrylate/isohexadecane/castor oilPEG-40; sodium carbomer, cross-linked polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), polyacrylamide/isoparaffin 13-14/laureth-7, polyacrylate 13/polyisobutene/polysorbate 20, cross-linked polymer polyacrylate-6, polyamide-3, polyquaternium-37, sodium polyacrylate, and a mixture of these.

Examples of nonionic thickening polymers include:

(1) Celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain; examples which may be mentioned include: hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C ₈ -C ₂₂ , for example the product NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS (C ₁₆ alkyls) sold by the company Aqualon, or the product BERMOCOLL EHM 100 sold by the company Berol Nobel; and hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by alkylphenyl polyalkylene glycol ether groups, such as the product AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) nonylphenyl ether) sold by the company Amerchol,

(2) Hydroxypropyl guars modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as the product ESAFLOR HM 22 (C ₂₂ alkyl chain) sold by the company Lamberti, and the RE210-18 products (C ₁₄ alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C ₂₀ alkyl chain) sold by the company Rhône-Poulenc,

(3) Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and hydrophobic fatty chain monomers; as examples, we can include: the products ANTARON V216 or GANEX V216 (vinylpyrrolidone/hexadecene copolymer) marketed by the company I.S.P. the products ANTARON V220 or GANEX V220 (vinylpyrrolidone/eicosene copolymer) marketed by the company I.S.P.,

(4) Copolymers of methacrylates or C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl acrylates and amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, for example the oxyethylenated methyl acrylate/stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by the company Goldschmidt under the name ANTIL 208,

(5) Copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, for example the polyethylene glycol methacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer,

(6) Polyurethane polyethers comprising in their chain both hydrophilic blocks generally of a polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic blocks, which may be aliphatic sequences alone and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic sequences.

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition includes one or more taurate copolymers. These copolymers can act as gelling agents, thickeners, and provide emulsification properties. In particular, the inventors have discovered that taurate copolymers are particularly effective in stabilizing the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure.

Non-limiting examples of taurate copolymers include acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, acryloyl dimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer, sodium acrylate/acryloyl dimethyl copolymer sodium taurate, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, and a mixture thereof.

Taurate copolymers may be hydrophilic and may contain an acrylate component. The at least one taurate copolymer may include, for example, an acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, a hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, and/or a sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer. . In certain cases, at least one taurate copolymer can be obtained from ethylenically unsaturated sulfofunctional monomers and ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers, for example from crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide or methacrylamide and 2-acrylamido acid -2-methyl-propanesulfonic acid.

In certain cases, the taurate copolymer(s) may be chosen from acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, and mixtures thereof. Additionally, in some cases, the cosmetic compositions may include both a hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer and an ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, and optionally include a poly(C-alkyl acrylate ₁₀ - ₃₀ ).

Non-ionic emulsifiers

Non-limiting examples of nonionic emulsifiers include ethoxylated sorbitan fatty esters (such as polysorbate 80), polyol esters, glyceryl esters, alkyl polyglucosides (such as cetaryl glucoside), glycerol ethers, oxyethylenated ethers, oxypropylenated ethers and ethylene glycol polymers. In addition, the nonionic emulsifiers can be chosen from alkyl polyglucosides; alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols and fatty acid esters, ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated (polyglyceryl-2 isostearate); ethoxylated fatty esters; glyceryl esters of fatty acids; fatty alcohol ethoxylates; alkylphenol ethoxylates; fatty acid alkoxylates; and their mixtures.

The nonionic emulsifiers can be chosen from alcohols and alpha-diols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups being able to range from 2 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups can range from 2 to 30; these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 16 to 30 carbon atoms.

Also mentioned are polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides including on average from 1 to 5, and in particular from 1.5 to 4 glycerol groups; polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan preferably having from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, fatty acid esters of sucrose, polyoxyalkylenated and preferably polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters containing from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, such as oxyethylenated vegetable oils.

Useful nonionic surfactants include those of the alkyl(poly)glycoside type, represented in particular by the following general formula: R ₁ O-(R ₂ O) _t -(G) _v in which: R ₁ represents an alkyl or alkenyl substituent, linear or branched, comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl substituent whose alkyl substituent, linear or branched, comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms; R ₂ represents an alkylene substituent having 2 to 4 carbon atoms; G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms; t designates a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably 0 to 4; and v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably 1 to 4. Preferably, the alkyl (poly) glycoside surfactants are compounds of formula described above in which: R ₁ denotes a linear or branched alkyl substituent, saturated or unsaturated, containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms; R ₂ represents an alkylene substituent containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms; t designates a value ranging from 0 to 3 and preferably equal to 0; and G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose; the degree of polymerization, that is to say the value of v, which can range from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2. The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of type 1-6 or 1-4 and preferably of type 1-4. In particular, the alkyl (poly) glycoside surfactant may be a 1,4 alkyl (C ₈ /C ₁₆ ) (poly) glucoside surfactant, and in particular decyl glucosides and caprylyl/capryl glucosides.

The useful nonionic surfactants may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated C ₈ -C ₃₀ (preferably C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ ) fatty acid esters of sorbitan, C ₈ -C ₃₀ (preferably C ₁₂₎ fatty alcohols. - ₁₈ ) polyethoxylated, polyglycerolated C ₈ -C ₃₀ (preferably C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ ) fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylenated compounds preferably having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, polyglycerolated compounds preferably having from 2 to 16 moles of glycerol; and their mixtures.

The polyoxyethylenated C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols can be chosen from C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ fatty alcohols, in particular lauric alcohol, cetyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, such as: polyoxyethylenated cetyl alcohol with 6 EO (Cététh-6) (HLB 11.1) polyoxyethylenated cetyl alcohol with 10 EO (Cététh-10) (HLB 12.9) polyoxyethylenated cetyl alcohol with 20 EO (Cététh-20) (HLB 15.7) polyoxyethylenated cetyl alcohol with 24 EO (Cététh-24) (HLB 16.3) polyoxyethylenated lauric alcohol with 4 EO (Lauréth-4 ) (HLB 9.4) polyoxyethylenated lauric alcohol with 7 EO (Laureth-7) (HLB 12.3) polyoxyethylenated lauric alcohol with 9 EO (Laureth-9) (HLB 13.6) polyoxyethylenated lauric alcohol with 10 EO ( Laureth-10) (HLB 13.9) polyoxyethylenated lauryl alcohol with 12 EO (Laureth-12) (HLB 14.6) polyoxyethylenated lauryl alcohol with 21 EO (Laureth-21) (HLB 15.5) polyoxyethylenated lauryl alcohol with 23 EO (Laureth-23) (HLB 16.3) polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol with 2 EO (Steareth-2) (HLB 4.9) polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol with 10 EO (Steareth-10) (HLB 12.4) l polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol with 20 EO (Steareth-20) (HLB 15.2) polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol with 21 EO (Steareth-21) (HLB 15.5).

The polyoxyethylenated C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acid esters (preferably C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ ) of sorbitan can be chosen from polyoxyethylenated esters of C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetyl or stearic, sorbitan containing in particular from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, such as: polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (4 EO) (Polysorbate-21) (HLB 13.3) polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (20 EO) (Polysorbate-20) (HLB 16.7) polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monopalmitate (20 EO) (Polysorbate-40) (HLB 15.6) polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (20 EO) (Polysorbate-60) (HLB 14, 9) polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (4 EO) (Polysorbate-61) (HLB 9.6) polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (20 EO) (Polysorbate-80) (HLB 15).

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic compositions include one or more nonionic surfactants chosen from C ₈ -C ₃₀ polyoxyethylenated (preferably C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ ) fatty acid esters of sorbitan, preferably polyoxyethylenated esters of C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ fatty acids.

The polyglycerolated C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acid esters, particularly preferred, can be chosen from polyglycerolated esters of C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic or isostearic acids, having from 2 to 16 mol of glycerol, such as: polyglyceryl-2 laurate, polyglyceryl-3 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate; polyglyceryl-2 myristate, polyglyceryl-3 myristate, polyglyceryl-4 myristate, polyglyceryl-5 myristate, polyglyceryl-6 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate; polyglyceryl-2 palmitate, polyglyceryl-3 palmitate, polyglyceryl-6 palmitate, polyglyceryl-10 palmitate; polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 isostearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-5 isostearate, polyglyceryl-6 isostearate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate; polyglyceryl-2 stearate, polyglyceryl-3 stearate, polyglyceryl-4 stearate, polyglyceryl-5 stearate, polyglyceryl-6 stearate, polyglyceryl-8 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, and mixtures thereof.

In certain embodiments, the nonionic surfactant can be chosen from esters of polyols with saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acids containing for example from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably 10 to 100, such as glyceryl esters of one or more C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acids, of preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ , and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably of 10 to 100; polyethylene glycol esters of one or more C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acids, preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ , and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with a number of alkylene oxides from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100; sorbitol esters of one or more C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acids, preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ , and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with a number of alkylene oxides of 10 to 200, and of more preferably from 10 to 100; sugar esters (sucrose, glucose, alkylglycose) of one or more C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acids, preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ , and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with a number of alkylene oxides from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100; fatty alcohol ethers; ethers of sugar and one or more C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty alcohols, preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ ; and their mixtures.

Examples of ethoxylated fatty esters which may be mentioned include adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, especially those containing from 9 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (for CTFA names: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (for CTFA names: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (for CTFA names: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); palmitostearate from PEG-9 to PEG-50; behenate from PEG-9 to PEG-50 (for CTFA names: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate (for CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate); and their mixtures.

As glyceryl esters of fatty acids, mention may be made of glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and/or Trèsstearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate and their mixtures.

As glyceryl esters of C ₈ -C ₂₄ alkoxylated fatty acids, mention may be made, for example, of polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and/or Trèsstearate) such as PEG-20 glyceryl stearate.

It is also possible to use mixtures of these surfactants, such as for example the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, marketed under the name ARLACEL 165 by Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (mono- and distearate glyceryl) and potassium stearate marketed under the name TEG1N by Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE).

Alkyl polyglucosides are a class of useful nonionic surfactants. Non-limiting examples of alkyl polyglucosides include alkyl polyglucosides corresponding to the following formula:

R1-O-(R2O)n-Z(x)

in which R ¹ is an alkyl group having 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

R ² is an ethylene or propylene group;

Z is a saccharide group containing 5 to 6 carbon atoms;

n is an integer from 0 to 10; And

x is an integer from 1 to 5.

Useful alkyl polyglucosides include lauryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, sucrose laurate, caprylyl/capryl glucoside, and sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate, and mixtures thereof. Typically, the at least one alkyl poly glucoside compound is chosen from the group consisting of lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside and coco glucoside, and more typically lauryl glucoside. In certain cases, decyl glucoside is particularly preferred.

Polyglycerol-based emulsifiers

Polyglycerol-based emulsifiers are a useful type of nonionic emulsifiers. Non-limiting examples include polyglyceryl 10-stearate, polyglyceryl-3 caprate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate, or a mixture thereof. More generally, polyglycerol-based emulsifiers can be polyglycerol esters of fatty acids having a structure according to the following formula:

in which n is between 2 and 20 or between 2 and 10 or between 2 and 5, or is equal to 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10, and R ¹ , R ² and R ³ can each independently be a fatty acid moiety or a hydrogen, provided that at least one of R ¹ , R ² and R ³ is a fatty acid moiety. For example, R ¹ , R ² and R ³ can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and have a length of C ₁ -C ₄₀ , C ₁ -C ₃₀ , C ₁ -C ₂₅ , or C ₁ -C ₂₀ , C ₁ -C ₁₆ , or C ₁ -C ₁₀ . Additionally, non-limiting examples of nonionic polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids include polyglyceryl-4 caprylate/caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprylate/caprate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate polyglyceryl-4, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 cocoate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, and mixtures thereof.

In certain embodiments, the polyglycerol-based emulsifier may be chosen from polyglyceryl esters of saturated, unsaturated and branched chain C ₁₂ - ₂₂ fatty acids, such as polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate, polyglyceryl-2 sesquioleate, triglyceryl diisostearate, diglyceryl monooleate, tetraglyceryl monooleate, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of glyceryl esters may include glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl caprate, glyceryl cocoate, glyceryl laurate and combinations thereof.

Non-limiting examples of polyglycero fatty acid esters include polyglyceryl-10 laurate; polyglyceryl-10 myristate; polyglyceryl-2 palmitate, polyglyceryl-3 palmitate, polyglyceryl-6 palmitate, polyglyceryl-10 palmitate, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 isostearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-5 isostearate, polyglyceryl-5 isostearate polyglyceryl-6, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate; polyglyceryl-2 stearate, polyglyceryl-3 stearate, polyglyceryl-4 stearate, polyglyceryl-5 stearate, polyglyceryl-6 stearate, polyglyceryl-8 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, and mixtures thereof. In some cases, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate is particularly useful.

In a preferred embodiment, the nonionic emulsifier(s) are chosen from sorbitan fatty esters (for example, sorbitan isostearate and sorbitan oleate), ethoxylated sorbitan fatty esters (for example, polysorbate -80), polyol esters, glyceryl esters, polyglucosides (e.g. cetearyl glucoside) and mixtures thereof.

Ethoxylated fatty acids

“Ethoxylated fatty acids” are also called “ethoxylated fatty acid esters” and “polyethoxylated fatty acids”. They are formed when a fatty acid is reacted with an alkylene oxide. The resulting product may be a monoester, a diester or a mixture thereof.

Ethoxylated fatty acids can be represented by the formula RC(O)O(CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n -H, in which R represents the aliphatic residue of a fatty acid and n represents the number of oxide molecules ethylene. In another aspect, n is an integer ranging from 2 to 200, 2 to 150, 2 to 100, 2 to 50, 3 to 200, 3 to 150, 3 to 100, 3 to 50, or 3 to 25 in a another aspect, and 3 to 10 in another aspect. In yet another aspect of the invention, R is derived from a fatty acid containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms. Examples of ethoxylated fatty acids include, but are not limited to, capric acid ethoxylate, lauric acid ethoxylate, myristic acid ethoxylate, stearic acid ethoxylate, ethoxylate of oleic acid, coconut fatty acid ethoxylate and propoxylated polyethylene glycol 400 monolaurate, wherein the number of ethylene oxide units in each of the foregoing ethoxylates may be from 2 or more in one aspect , and between 2 and about 200 in another aspect, between 2 to 200, 2 to 150, 2 to 100, 2 to 50, 3 to 200, 3 to 150, 3 to 100, 3 to 50, or 3 to 25. More specific examples of ethoxylated fatty acids are PEG-8 distearate (the 8 meaning the number of repeated ethylene oxide units), PEG-8 behenate, PEG-8 caprate, PEG-8 caprylate 8, PEG-8 caprylate/caprate, PEG cocoates (PEG without numerical designation meaning that the number of ethylene oxide units is between 2 and 50), PEG-15 dicocoat, PEG-2 diisononanoate, PEG-8 diisostearate, PEG dilaurates, PEG dioleates, PEG distearates, PEG ditallates, PEG isostearates, PEG-jojoba acids, PEG laurates, PEG linolenates, PEG myristates, PEG oleates, PEG palmitates PEG, PEG ricinoleates, PEG stearates, PEG tallates and the like.

Examples of ethoxylated fatty acids which may be mentioned include adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, especially those containing from 9 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (for CTFA names: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (for CTFA names: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (for CTFA names: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); palmitostearate from PEG-9 to PEG-50; behenate from PEG-9 to PEG-50 (for CTFA names: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate (for CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate); and their mixtures.

In certain cases, the ethoxylated fatty acid(s) are chosen from polyethoxylated stearic acid esters, for example, PEG-9 stearate, PEG-8 distearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG- 8, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-150 laurate, and their combinations.

Nonionic emulsifiers with an HLB of 9 to 12

Non-limiting examples of nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 9 to about 15 include alkyl polyglucosides (cetearyl glucoside), polyglycerol-based emulsifiers (polygyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate), sorbitan fatty esters (polysorbate 60), sugar esters or ethers, sugar-based esters or ethers, polyol fatty esters or ethers, glyceryl fatty esters or ethers, their ethoxylates, or mixtures thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, one or more of the nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 9 to about 15 are sugar esters or ethers or sugar-based esters and ethers. “Sugar ester” as used herein means “sugar alcohol fatty acid ester” or “sugar acid fatty alcohol ester” and “sugar ether” as used herein means “ether of fatty alcohol of sugar alcohol”. The sugar-based esters and ethers may be esters or ethers of (a) a sugar, a sugar alcohol or a sugar derivative and (b) a fatty acid or a fatty alcohol. In some embodiments, esters may be preferred over ethers, and vice versa. Esters and ethers can be formed by the combination of a sugar, a sugar alcohol or a sugar derivative with a fatty acid, or by the combination of a sugar, a sugar alcohol or of a sugar derivative with a fatty alcohol. For example, a sucrose laurate ester may be formed by the combination of sucrose with lauric acid or a lauryl-saccharic acid ester, and unless otherwise specified herein, it is not necessary for the present embodiments. realization that a particular ester (or ether) is the result of esterification (or etherification) with a fatty acid as opposed to a fatty alcohol, or vice versa.

Preferred sugars of esters and ethers include monosaccharides, disaccharides and oligosaccharides, and in a preferred embodiment the sugar is a mono-, di- or tri-saccharide, or a mixture thereof. Examples of sugars include allose, altrose, arabinose, cellobiose, erythrose, erythrulose, fructose, fucose, galactose, gentiobiose, glucose, gulose, idose, isomaltose, lactose, lactulose, lyxose, maltose, maltotriose, mannobiose, mannose, melezitose, raffinose , rhamnose, ribose, ribulose, sorbose, sucrose, talose, threose, trehalose, xylobiose, xylose and xylulose. In a preferred embodiment, the sugar is glucose or sucrose. Examples of sugar alcohols include allitol, arabitol, ducitol, erythritol, galactitol, glycerol, glycol, iditol, inositol, isomalt, lactitol, mallitol, maltitol, mannitol, sorbitol and xylitol. Exemplary sugar derivatives such as sulfonated sugars and sugar amines may also be used in the present embodiments. These examples are not limiting, and it is to be understood that any saccharide, sugar alcohol or other sugar derivative which will provide a hydrophilic head group to the ester or ether and which is otherwise pharmaceutically acceptable is suitable for use in the present embodiments.

The fatty acids and fatty alcohols used in esters and ethers can be any fatty acid or fatty acid alcohol capable of providing a hydrophobic tail group so that the ester or ether can exert properties surfactants. Fatty acids and fatty alcohols can be short chain (i.e. less than 8 carbon atoms in length), medium chain (i.e. 8 to 8 carbon atoms in length). 14 carbon atoms) or long chain (i.e. longer than 14 carbon atoms). Branched or unbranched fatty acids and fatty alcohols can be used. Non-limiting examples of suitable saturated fatty acids include butyric, caproic, caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, arachidic and behenic acids, and non-limiting examples of suitable unsaturated fatty acids include myristoleic, palmitoleic , oleic, linoleic, linolenic, arachidonic, eicosapentaenoic, erucic and docosahexaenoic. Non-limiting examples of suitable linear fatty alcohols include caproylic (caproic), caprylic, capric, lauric, myristyl, palmitylic (cetyl), palmitoleyl, stearyl, oleyl, linoleyl, linolenylic, arachidyl, behenyl, erucylic and lignoceryl alcohols, and non-limiting examples of suitable branched fatty alcohols include isocetyl, isostearyl and isobehenyl alcohols.

In a preferred embodiment, the fatty component of the sugar-based ester or ether is a C ₁₂ fatty component (e.g., stearic acid, stearyl alcohol, lauric acid, lauryl alcohol, etc.), or a C ₈ to C ₁₈ fatty component. In another embodiment, a mixture of medium and long chain fatty components is preferred, particularly a mixture of saturated and unsaturated C ₈ to C ₁₈ fatty components. In yet another embodiment, a mixture of saturated and unsaturated C ₈ to C ₁₈ fatty acids is preferred. In another embodiment, the sugar-based ester or ether is a di- or tri-ester of a fatty acid or alcohol, or a di- or tri-ether of a fatty alcohol .

Sugar-based esters and ethers may be monoesters or monoethers, or may be di-, tri-, or polyester-esters and ethers, depending on the sugar or sugar alcohol chosen for use. In one embodiment, mono- and di-esters, or mono- and di-ethers are preferred. Esterification and etherification can occur at any free hydroxyl group in the sugar or sugar alcohol.

The use of mixtures of esters or ethers is also considered. Mixtures can be modified in several ways. For example, a particular ester used in a formulation, such as a sugar monostearate, may include a variety of sugar monostearate esters, each esterified to a different hydroxyl group. Or, for example, a sugar stearate may include a variety of esters with different degrees of esterification, for example a monostearate, a distearate, a Tristearate, etc. Or, in yet another example, a sugar monoacid or sugar diacid may include mono- or diesterification with the stearyl alcohol fatty component. In yet another example, a mixture containing a particular ester such as a sugar stearate may contain primarily esters of stearyl acid (or stearyl alcohol), but also esters of other fatty components, such as, for example, example, esters of myristic acid (or myristyl alcohol), etc. In yet another example, an "ester" can already be a mixture of fatty acids to form esters, for example the cocoate "ester" of sucrose is in fact a mixture of esters including lauric, palmitic, myristic esters, stearic and caproic sucrose with smaller amounts of other short and long chain fatty acids as well as mixed di- and tri-esters. These non-limiting examples of mixtures also apply to sugar-based ethers as well as esters.

Sugar-based esters and ethers can be prepared by any suitable means known in the art, for example by incubating an aqueous mixture of a sugar or a sugar-alcohol, a fatty acid and a catalytically active quantity of a lipolytic enzyme, and recovering the ester resulting from the mixture. Other processes include mixing the sugar with a fatty acid chloride at around 80°C, with simple removal of the hydrogen chloride formed and recovery of the fatty acid ester from the sugar. Similarly, a mixture of a fatty acid methyl ester and sugar can be heated to a temperature of approximately 90°C in the presence of a basic catalyst, with distillation of the methanol formed and recovery of the ester. sugar fatty acid. Many suitable esters and ethers are also commercially available.

The fatty acid esters of sugars may be chosen in particular from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters of C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty acids and sucrose, maltose, glucose or fructose, and esters or mixtures of C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ fatty acid esters and methylglucose.

The C ₈ -C ₂₂ or C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ fatty acids forming the fatty unit of the usable esters comprise a linear, saturated or unsaturated alkyl or alkenyl chain, containing respectively from 8 to 22 or from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty unit of the esters can be chosen in particular from stearates, behenates, arachidonates, palmitates, myristates, laurates and caprates, and mixtures thereof. Stearates are preferably used.

As examples of esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acid and sucrose, maltose, glucose or fructose, mention may be made of sucrose monostearate, sucrose distearate and sucrose Trèsstearate and their mixtures; and as examples of esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acid and methylglucose, mention may be made of polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate. We can also mention glucose or maltose monoesters such as methyl O-hexadecanoyl-6-D-glucoside and O-hexadecanoyl-6-D-maltoside.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition preferably includes at least one ester of C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ fatty acids and methylglucose, for example polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate.

The fatty alcohol ethers of sugars which can be used may be solid at a temperature less than or equal to 45°C. and can be chosen in particular from the group comprising ethers or mixtures of ethers of C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol and glucose, maltose, sucrose or fructose, and ethers or mixtures of ethers of a C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol and methylglucose. These are in particular alkyl polyglucosides which, in various embodiments, are preferred. A particularly preferred example is a C _12-20 alkyl glucoside. Therefore, in one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions include at least one alkyl polyglucoside, for example, a C _12-20 alkyl glucoside.

The C ₈ -C ₂₂ or C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols forming the fatty unit of the usable ethers comprise a linear, saturated or unsaturated alkyl or alkenyl chain, containing respectively from 8 to 22 or from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty unit of the ethers can be chosen in particular from decyl, cetyl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl, palmityl, myristyl, lauryl, capryl, hexadecanoyl units and their mixtures, such as cetearyl.

As examples of sugar fatty alcohol ethers, mention may be made of alkyl polyglucosides such as decyl glucoside and lauryl glucoside, cetostearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof. Also mentioned are sucrose monostearate, sucrose distearate or sucrose Trèsstearate and mixtures thereof, polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate and alkyl polyglucosides.

In some embodiments, nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 9 to about 15 may be selected from: fatty acid polyglyceryl esters of at least one fatty acid comprising at least one C ₈ hydrocarbon group - C ₂₂ , saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, such as the C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl or alkenyl group, preferably the C 8 -C 18 alkyl or alkenyl group, and more preferably the C ₈ -C ₁₈ alkyl or alkenyl group. C ₈ -C ₁₂ , and from 2 to 12 glycerols, preferably from 2 to 10 glycerols and more preferably from 2 to 8 glycerols; polyoxyethylenated alkylglycerides such as polyethylene glycolated derivatives of a mixture of mono-, di- and tri-glycerides of caprylic and capric acids (preferably 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, more preferably 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units ethylene, and even more preferably 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units); polyoxyethylenated fatty ethers of at least one, preferably one, fatty alcohol comprising at least one C ₈ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, such as a C ₈ -C alkyl or alkenyl group ₂₂ , preferably a C ₈ -C ₁₈ alkyl or alkenyl group, and more preferably a C ₈ -C ₁₂ alkyl or alkenyl group, and from 2 to 60 ethylene oxides, preferably from 2 to 30 oxides ethylene, and more preferably 2 to 10 ethylene oxides; and their mixtures.

It is preferable that the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester has a polyglycerol moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerols, more preferably 2 to 8 glycerols, and even more preferably 4 to 6 glycerols. The polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid can be chosen from mono, di and triesters of saturated or unsaturated acid, preferably saturated acid, including 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 to 12 carbon atoms, such as caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and myristic acid.

The fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may be selected from the group consisting of PG2 caprate, PG2 dicaprate, PG2 tricaprate, PG2 caprylate, PG2 dicaprylate, PG2 tricaprylate, PG2 laurate, PG2 dilaurate, trilaurate PG2, PG2 myristate, PG2 dimyristate, PG2 trimyristate, PG2 stearate, PG2 distearate, PG2 Trèstearate, PG2 isostearate, PG2 diisostearate, PG2 triisostearate, PG2 oleate, PG2 dioleate, PG2 triolearate , PG3 caprate, PG3 dicaprate, PG3 tricaprate, PG3 caprylate, PG3 dicaprylate, PG3 tricaprylate, PG3 laurate, PG3 dilaurate, PG3 trilaurate, PG3 myristate, PG3 dimyristate, PG3 trimyristate, stearate PG3, PG3 distearate, PG3 Tristearate, PG3 isostearate, PG3 diisostearate, PG3 triisostearate, PG3 oleate, PG3 dioleate, PG3 trioleate, PG4 caprate, PG4 dicaprate, PG4 tricaprate, PG4 caprylate , PG4 dicaprylate, PG4 tricaprylate, PG4 laurate, PG4 dilaurate, PG4 trilaurate, PG4 myristate, PG4 dimyristate, PG4 trimyristate, PG4 stearate, PG4 distearate, PG4 Tristearate, PG4 isostearate, diisostearate PG4, PG4 triisostearate, PG4 oleate, PG4 dioleate, PG4 trioleate, PG5 caprate, PG5 dicaprate, PG5 tricaprate, PG5 caprylate, PG5 dicaprylate, PG5 tricaprylate, PG5 laurate, PG5 dilaurate , PG5 trilaurate, PG5 myristate, PG5 dimyristate, PG5 trimyristate, PG5 stearate, PG5 distearate, PG5 Tristearate, PG5 isostearate, PG5 diisostearate, PG5 triisostearate, PG5 oleate, PG5 dioleate, triolearate PG5, PG6 caprate, PG6 dicaprate, PG6 tricaprate, PG6 caprylate, PG6 dicaprylate, PG6 tricaprylate, PG6 laurate, PG6 dilaurate, PG6 trilaurate, PG6 myristate, PG6 dimyristate, PG6 trimyristate , PG6 stearate, PG6 distearate, PG6 Tristearate, PG6 isostearate, PG6 diisostearate, PG6 triisostearate, PG6 oleate, PG6 dioleate, PG6 triolearate, PG10 caprate, PG10 dicaprate, PG10 tricaprate, caprylate de PG10, pg10 dicaprylate, PG10 tricaprylate, pg10 laurate, pg10 dilaurate, pg10 trilaurate, pg10 myristate, pg10 dimyristate, PG10 trimyristate, pg10 stearate, PG10, PG10, G10 , PG10 diisostearate, PG10 triisostearate, PG10 oleate, PG10 dioleate, PG10 trioleate, and mixtures thereof.

The polyoxyalkylenated fatty ethers, preferably polyoxyethylenated fatty ethers, may comprise from 2 to 60 ethylene oxide units, preferably from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, and more preferably from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units. . The fatty chain of the ethers can be chosen in particular from lauryl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl and cetyl units, and their mixtures, such as cetearyl. As an example of ethoxylated fatty ethers, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol ethers comprising 2, 3, 4 and 5 ethylene oxide units (CTFA names: Laureth-2, Laureth-3, Laureth-4 and Laureth -5).

The mixed esters of fatty acids, or of fatty alcohol, of carboxylic acid and of glycerol, usable as nonionic surfactant above, can be chosen in particular from the group comprising mixed esters of fatty acid or of fatty alcohol with an alkyl or alkenyl chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 to 12 carbon atoms, and alpha-hydroxy acid and/or succinic acid, with glycerol. The alpha-hydroxy acid may be, for example, citric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid or malic acid, and mixtures thereof.

The alkyl chain of the fatty acids or alcohols from which the usable mixed esters are derived can be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. These may include stearate, isostearate, linoleate, oleate, behenate, arachidonate, palmitate, myristate, laurate, caprate, isostearyl, stearyl, linoleyl, oleyl, behenyl, myristyl, lauryl or capryl chains, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of mixed esters include the mixed ester of glycerol and the mixture of citric acid, lactic acid, linoleic acid and oleic acid (CTFA name: Glyceryl citrate/lactate/linoleate/oleate) ; the mixed ester of succinic acid and isostearyl alcohol with glycerol (CTFA name: Isostearyl diglyceryl succinate); the mixed ester of citric acid and stearic acid with glycerol (CTFA name: Glyceryl stearate citrate); the mixed ester of lactic acid and stearic acid with glycerol (CTFA name: Glyceryl stearate lactate), and their mixtures.

The fatty esters of sorbitan and the oxyalkylenated fatty esters of sorbitan can be chosen from the group comprising the C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acid esters of sorbitan and the oxyethylenated C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acid esters of sorbitan. They can be formed from at least one fatty acid comprising at least one saturated linear alkyl chain containing respectively from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and sorbitol or ethoxylated sorbitol. The oxyethylenated esters can generally comprise from 1 to 100 ethylene glycol units and preferably from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide (EO) units. These esters can be chosen in particular from stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates, and mixtures thereof. Stearates and palmitates are preferably used. Non-limiting examples include sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate), sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate), sorbitan Trèsstearate 20 EO (CTFA name: polysorbate 65), and mixtures thereof.

The block copolymers of ethylene oxide (A) and propylene oxide (B) which can be used can be chosen in particular from the block copolymers of formula

HO(C ₂ H ₄ O)x(C ₃ H ₆ O) _y (C ₂ H ₄ O) _Z h

in which x, y and z are integers such that x+z is between 2 and 100 and y is between 14 and 60, and their mixtures.

The polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) alkyl ethers (C ₁₆ -C ₃₀ ), which can be used as the nonionic surfactant above, can be chosen from PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-30 ; Polyoxyethlene (30) Polyoxypropylene (6) Tetradecyl Ether; PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-12; Polyoxyethylene (12) Polyoxypropylene (6) Tetradecyl Ether; PPG-13 Decyltetradeceth-24; Polyoxyethylene (24) Polyoxypropylene (13) Decyltetradecyl Ether, PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-20; Polyoxyethylene (20) Polyoxypropylene (6) Decyltetradecyl Ether, PPG-4 Cététh-1; Polyoxyethylene (1) Polyoxypropylene (4) Cetyl Ether, PPG-8 Cététh-1; Polyoxyethylene (1) Polyoxypropylene (8) Cetyl Ether, PPG-4 Cététh-10; Polyoxyethylene (10) Polyoxypropylene (4) Cetyl Ether, PPG-4 Cététh-20; Polyoxyethylene (20) Polyoxypropylene (4) Cetyl Ether, PPG-5 Cététh-20; Polyoxyethylene (20) Polyoxypropylene (5) Cetyl Ether, PPG-8 Cététh-20; Polyoxyethylene (20) Polyoxypropylene (8) Cetyl Ether, and PPG-23 Steareth-34; Polyoxyethylene Polyoxypropylene Stearyl Ether (34 EO) (23 PO).

In various embodiments, it may be more preferred that the polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) C ₁₆ -C ₃₀ alkyl ethers are C ₁₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl ethers. (15-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (5-30 PO), which could be selected from the group consisting of PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-30, PPG-13 Decyltetradeceth-24, PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-20, PPG-5 Cététh- 20, PPG-8 Steareth-20, and PPG-23 Steareth-34. It may be even more preferred that the polyoxyethylenated ( _1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) alkyl ethers (C 16 -C ₃₀ ) are polyoxypropylenated (C ₁₆ -C ₂₄ ) alkyl ethers (5 -30 PO), which may be selected from the group consisting of PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-30, PPG-13 Decyltetradeceth-24, PPG-5 Cététh-20 and PPG-8 Cététh-20.

In one embodiment, the nonionic emulsifier(s) having an HLB of 9 to 12 may be chosen from alkyl polyglucosides (e.g., C ₁₂ - ₂₀ alkyl glucoside), polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate , polyglyceryl-2 polyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3 caprylate, polyglyceryl-3 laurate, polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate, polyglyceryl-3 palmitate, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate , polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, polyglyceryl-6 oleate, polyglyceryl-6 stearate, and a mixture thereof.

Glyceryl fatty esters

Non-limiting examples of glyceryl fatty esters (or simply glyceryl esters) include glyceryl behenate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl lanolate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl lactate palmitate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl distearate, or a mixture thereof. Preferred glyceryl esters include glyceryl stearate, glyceryl ricinoleate, or a mixture thereof.

In various embodiments, the glyceryl ester(s) are selected from glyceryl esters which are solid at a temperature below 30°C.

Suitable non-limiting examples of glyceryl esters having an HLB of about 3 to about 6 are selected from glyceryl behenate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl lanolate , glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl dioleate, glyceryl distearate, or a mixture thereof. In at least one case, the glyceryl ester includes glyceryl stearate, glyceryl ricinoleate, or a mixture thereof.

In certain cases, the glyceryl esters can be chosen from esters of an oligomeric glycerol, arachidyl propionate, phytosterol esters, triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from poly condensation between a linear or branched C ₄ -C ₅₀ dicarboxylic or polycarboxylic acid and a C ₂ -C ₅₀ diol or polyol, the aliphatic esters of an ester resulting from the esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with an aliphatic carboxylic acid, and one of their mixtures. Non-limiting examples of glyceryl esters include glyceryl behenate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl lanolate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, myristate glyceryl, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl laurate, or a mixture thereof. In at least one case, the glyceryl ester comprises glyceryl stearate, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate, or a mixture thereof. In at least one other case, the glyceryl ester comprises glyceryl stearate.

Nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB d ’ about 16 to about 18

Non-limiting examples of nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 16 to about 18 include ethoxylated emulsifiers, e.g., ethoxylated fatty acids, ethoxylated sorbitan fatty esters, and mixtures thereof. In some cases, it is preferable for nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 16 to about 18 to include one or more ethoxylated fatty acids.

Non-limiting examples of ethoxylated fatty acids include adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, particularly those containing 9 with 100 oxyethylene groups, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (for INCI names: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (for INCI names: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (for INCI names: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); palmitostearate from PEG-9 to PEG-50; behenate from PEG-9 to PEG-50 (for INCI names: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate (for INCI name: PEG-100 stearate); and their mixtures.

Non-limiting examples of ethoxylated sorbitan fatty esters include polysorbate-20 (sorbitan monolaurate POE(20)), polysorbate-21 (sorbitan monolaurate POE(4)), polysorbate-40 (sorbitan monopalmitate POE(20)) , polysorbate-60 (Sorbitan Monostearate POE(20)), Polysorbate-61 (Sorbitan Monostearate POE(4)), Polysorbate-65 (Sorbitan Tristearate POE(20)), Polysorbate-80 (Sorbitan Monooleate POE(20)) sorbitan), polysorbate-81 (POE(4) sorbitan monooleate), polysorbate 85 (POE(20) sorbitan trioleate), sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan monopalmitate, sorbitan monostearate, sorbitan sesquioleate sorbitan, sorbitan trioleate and sorbitan grisearate and a mixture thereof.

Polyglycerol-based emulsifiers

Non-limiting examples include polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-3 caprate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate, or a mixture thereof. In various embodiments, the polyglycerol-based emulsifiers may be polyglycerol esters of fatty acids having a structure in accordance with the following formula:

in which n is from 2 to 20 or from 2 to 10 or from 2 to 5, or is 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10, and R ¹ , R ² and R ³ can each independently be a fatty acid moiety or a hydrogen, provided that at least one of R ¹ , R ² and R ³ is a fatty acid moiety. For example, R ¹ , R ² and R ³ can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and have a length of C ₁ -C ₄₀ , C ₁ -C ₃₀ , C ₁ -C ₂₅ , or C ₁ -C ₂₀ , C ₁ -C ₁₆ , or C ₁ -C ₁₀ . Additionally, non-limiting examples of nonionic polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids include polyglyceryl-4 caprylate/caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprylate/caprate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprate, polyglyceryl laurate -4, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 cocoate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, and mixtures thereof.

In certain embodiments, the polyglycerol-based emulsifier may be chosen from polyglyceryl esters of saturated, unsaturated and branched chain C _12-22 fatty acids, such as polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate, polyglyceryl-2 saquioleate, triglyceryl diisostearate, diglyceryl monooleate, tetraglyceryl monooleate and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of glyceryl esters may include glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl caprate, glyceryl cocoate, glyceryl laurate and combinations thereof.

In some embodiments, particularly useful polyglycerol emulsifiers include polyglyceryl methylglucose surfactants, such as polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, polyglyceryl-6 methylglucose distearate, polyglyceryl-10 methylglucose distearate, and their mixtures.

Cross-linked emulsifying silicone elastomers

Various types of emulsifying cross-linked silicone elastomers are known. They typically contain at least one hydrophilic moiety such as polyoxyalkylenated groups. Typically, these polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers are crosslinked organopolysiloxanes which can be obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane comprising at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and a polyoxyalkylene comprising at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups. In at least one embodiment, the polyoxyalkylenated crosslinked organopolysiloxanes are obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane comprising at least two hydrogens each linked to a silicon, and of a polyoxyalkylene comprising at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups , optionally in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

In various embodiments, useful cross-linked emulsifying silicone elastomers include, among others, polyoxyalkylenated emulsifying silicone elastomers (e.g., dimethicone/PEG-10/15 cross-linked polymer and PEG-10 dimethicone), silicone elastomers polyglycerol emulsifiers, and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of polyglycerol silicone elastomers include Shin-Etsu's KSG line, such as KSG-710 which is a dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 cross-linked polymer dispersed in dimethicone; or the cross-linked lauryl dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 polymer dispersed in a variety of solvents such as isododecane, dimethicone, triethylhexanoin, sold under the trade names KSG-810, KSG-820, KSG-830 or KSG-840 from Shin -Etsu. Also suitable are the silicones sold by Dow Corning under the trade names 9010 and DC9011.

In one embodiment, crosslinked emulsifying silicone elastomers of linear or branched type can be used. Cross-linked emulsifying silicone elastomers, by way of example but not limitation, include those having the following INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) designations: Bis-Butyldimethicone Polyglyceryl-3; Bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 Dimethicone; Bis-butyldimethicone Polyglyceryl-3; Bis-isobutyl PEG/PPG-10/7 Dimethicone copolymer; Bis-PEG/PPG-18/6 Dimethicone; Bis-PEG/PPG-20/20 Dimethicone; Bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG-16/16 Dimethicone; Bis(PPG-7 Undeceneth-21-Dimethicone; Cetyl Dimethicone PEG-7 Acetate; Cetyl PEG-8 Dimethicone; Cetyl PEG/PPG-15/16 Butyl Ether Dimethicone; Cetyl PEG/PPG-15/15 Butyl Ether Dimethicone; Cetyl PEG /PPG-7/3 Dimethicone; Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone; Dimethicone PEG-15 Acetate; Dimethicone PEG-7 Cocoate; Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate; Dimethicone PEG-IO Phosphate; Dimethicone PEG/PPG-7/4 Phosphate; Dimethicone PEG/PPG-12/4 Phosphate; Dimethicone PEG-7 Undecylenate; Lauryl Dimethicone PEG-IO Phosphate; Isopolyglyceryl-3 Dimethicone; Isopolyglyceryl-3 Dimethiconol; Isostearyl Carboxyldecyl PEG-8 Dimethicone; Lauryl Methicone PEG-10 Phosphate; Lauryl PEG-8 Dimethicone; Lauryl PEG-10 Methyl Ether Dimethicone; Lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 Methicone; PEG-6 Methyl Ether Dimethicone; PEG-7 Methyl Ether Dimethicone; PEG-9 Methyl Ether Dimethicone; PEG-10 Methyl Ether Dimethicone ;PEG-11 Methyl Ether Dimethicone;PEG-11 Methyl Ether Dimethicone;PEG-32 Methyl Ether Dimethicone;PEG-PEG/PPG-28/21 Acetate Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-22/22 Butyl Ether Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-23/23 Butyl Ether Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-24/18 Butyl Ether Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-3/10 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-4/12 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-6/11 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-8/14 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-12/16 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-12/18 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-14/4 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-15/5 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-15/15 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-16/2 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-16/8 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-17/18 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-18/12 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-19/19 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-20/6 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-20/15 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-20/20 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-20/29 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-22/23 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-22/24 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-25/25 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-27/27 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-30/10 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-10/3 Oleyl Ether Dimethicone; PEG-8 trisiloxane; Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone; PPG-12 Butyl Ether Dimethicone; Quaternium-17 Silicone; TEA-Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate; and their mixtures.

In one embodiment, non-limiting examples of cross-linked emulsifying silicone elastomers that may be included in cosmetic compositions include the cross-linked polymer dimethicone/dimethicone PEG/PPG 15; the crosslinked polymer dimethicone PEG-10; the crosslinked polymer dimethicone PEG-10/15; the crosslinked polymer dimethicone PEG-15; the crosslinked polymer dimethicone polyglycerin-3; dimethicone cross-linked polymer PPG-20; lauryl dimethicone cross-linked polymer PEG-15; cross-linked polymer lauryl dimethicone polyglycerin-3; cross-linked polymer PEG-8 dimethicone polysorbate-20; PEG-10 dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone cross-linked polymer; PEG-10 lauryl dimethicone; PEG-15/lauryl dimethicone cross-linked polymer; PEG-15 laurylpolydimethylsiloxy ethyl cross-linked polymer; and their mixtures.

In one embodiment, mention may be made of the crosslinked polymer dimethicone, the crosslinked polymer cetearyl dimethicone, crosslinked polymer cetearyldimethicone/vinyldimethicone, crosslinked polymer dimethicone/vinyldimethicone, crosslinked polymer dimethicone/polyethylene glycol (PEG)-10, crosslinked polymer dimethicone/PEG- 15, dimethicone/polyglyceryl-3 cross-linked polymer, dimethicone/silsesquioxane copolymer, dimethicone/phenylvinyl dimethicone cross-linked polymer, vinyl dimethicone/lauryl dimethicone cross-linked polymer, dimethicone/bis-isobutyl polypropylene glycol (PPG)-20 cross-linked polymer, PEG- cross-linked polymer 12 dimethicone/PPG-20, lauryl dimethicone cross-linked polymer PEG-15, lauryl dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 cross-linked polymer, and mixtures thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, the crosslinked emulsifying silicone elastomer(s) are chosen from crosslinked dimethicone/PEG-10/15 polymer, crosslinked lauryl dimethicone PEG-15 polymer, crosslinked lauryl dimethicone PEG-15 polymer, PEG-15 crosslinked lauryl polymer dimethicone, PEG-10 lauryl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-15 lauryl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-12 dimethicone crosslinked polymers, dimethicone/dimethicone PEG/PPG 15 crosslinked polymer, PEG-10 dimethicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-10/15 dimethicone crosslinked polymer , cross-linked polymer dimethicone PEG-15, cross-linked polymer dimethicone polyglycerin-3, cross-linked polymer dimethicone PPG-20, cross-linked polymer lauryl dimethicone PEG-15, cross-linked polymer lauryl dimethicone polyglycerin-3, cross-linked polymer PEG-8 dimethicone polysorbate-20, cross-linked polymer PEG-10 dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone, PEG-10 lauryl dimethicone cross-linked polymer, PEG-15/lauryl dimethicone cross-linked polymer, PEG-15 laurylpolydimethylsiloxy ethyl cross-linked polymer, and mixtures thereof.

Silicone oils

Non-limiting examples of silicones include dimethicone, dimethiconol, dimethiconol, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone and stearoxytrimethylsilane. In a preferred embodiment, the silicone oil(s) are non-volatile silicone oils. Useful silicone oils include polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups which are pendant and/or at the end of the silicone chain, which groups each contain from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenylsilicones, such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes or (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates. Other examples of silicone oils that may be mentioned include volatile linear or cyclic silicones, such as those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8x106 m2/s) and/or containing 2 to 7 silicon atoms. These silicones optionally include alkyl or alkoxy groups containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Non-limiting examples of volatile silicone oils include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, and dodecamethylpentasiloxane , or their mixtures.

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic compositions include one or more silicone oils selected from dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone and amodimethicone; and preferably include dimethicone.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions include one or more amino functionalized silicones. Non-limiting examples include amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy/methoxy amodimethicones, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, amodimethicone, bis(C _13-15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicones, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicones, aminopropyl dimethicones, bis-amino PEG/PPG-41/3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicones, caprylyl methicones, and a mixture thereof. Amodimethicone is a particularly useful amino functionalized silicone.

In a preferred embodiment, the silicone oil(s) are chosen from dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclomethicone, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, cycloheptasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclotrisiloxane, capryldimethicone, caprylyl trimethicone, caprylyl methicone, cetearylmethicone, he xadecylmethicone, hexylmethicone, laurylmethicone, myristylmethicone, phenylmethicone, stearylmethicone, stearyl dimethicone, behenyl dimethicone, trifluoropropylmethicone, cetyl dimethicone, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, and phenyl trimethicone, and their mixtures. Preferably, one of the one or more silicone oils is dimethicone, and the cosmetic compositions optionally include one or more additional silicone oils.

Miscellaneous ingredients

Miscellaneous ingredients are ingredients that are compatible with the cosmetic compositions and do not disrupt or materially affect the fundamental and novel properties of the cosmetic compositions. The various ingredients commonly used in cosmetics are known in the art. Non-limiting examples include various emulsifiers/surfactants different from (d) cross-linked emulsifying silicone elastomers, preservatives, fragrances, pH correctors, salts, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts , UV filtration agents, proteins, hydrolysates and/or protein isolates, hydrotropes, pearling agents, fillers, dyes, mattifying agents, other active agents for the skin, depigmenting agents, anti-wrinkle agents, etc. In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure include one or more active agents for the skin, in particular, madecassoside. Non-limiting examples of various miscellaneous ingredients that may optionally be included (or excluded) from cosmetic compositions are provided below.

Various emulsifiers/surfactants

Various emulsifiers/surfactants may optionally be included in the cosmetic compositions. Miscellaneous emulsifiers/surfactants are those that are different from the emulsifying cross-linked silicone elastomers of (d). The various emulsifiers/surfactants may be nonionic, anionic, cationic and/or amphoteric/zwitterionic.

Antioxidants

Examples of antioxidants include tocopherols (e.g. d-α-tocopherol, d-β-tocopherol, d-γ-tocopherol, d-delta-tocopherol), tocotrienols (e.g. d-α-tocotrienol, d-β -tocotrienol, d-γ.-tocotrienol, d-delta-tocotrienol,) and vitamin E (α-tocopherol acetate). These compounds may be isolated from natural sources, prepared by synthetic means, or mixtures thereof. Vitamin E preparations enriched with tocotrienol can be obtained by fractionating vitamin E preparations to remove a portion of the tocopherols and recover a preparation more highly concentrated in tocotrienol. Useful tocotrienols are natural products isolated, for example, from wheat germ oil, grain oil or palm oil using high performance liquid chromatography, or isolated by alcohol extraction and/or molecular distillation at from barley, spent grain or oats. As used herein, the term “tocotrienols” includes the tocotrienol-rich fractions obtained from these natural products as well as the pure compounds. Increasing glutathione peroxidase activity protects the skin from oxidative damage.

Vitamin C and its derivatives may be used, including ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbate and the fat-soluble esters tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside, vitamin C ascorbate glucosamine, ascorbyl acetate, etc. In addition, plant extracts containing a large amount of vitamin C, such as camu berry (Myrciaria dubia), acerola, emblica officinalis, and bioflavonoids from rosehip and citrus fruits can be used, including bioflavonoids soluble in water such as hesperidin methyl chalcone.

Sesame (Sesamum indicum) or sesame lignan can also be added. Sesame and its lignans (the fibrous compounds associated with sesame) act as antioxidants. Sesame seed lignans significantly enhance the activity of vitamin E.

Additionally, carotenoids, particularly the xanthophyll type, are also useful antioxidants that can be used. Xanthophyll-type carotenoids include molecules such as lutein, canthaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, zeaxanthin, and astaxanthin. Xanthophylls protect compounds, such as vitamin A, vitamin E and other carotenoids.

Flavonoids can also function as antioxidants. In some cases, the flavonoid is a flavanone (derived from 2,3-dihydro-2-phenylchromen-4-one). Flavones include: Butin, Eriodictyol, Hesperetin, Hesperidin, Homoeriodictyol, Isosakuranetin, Naringenin, Naringin, Pinocembrine, Poncirin, Sakuranetin, Sakuranine, and Sterubin. The flavonoid may be a flavanonol (derived from 3-hydroxy-2,3-dihydro-2-phenylchromen-4-one). Flavanols include: Taxifoline, Aromadedrine, Chrysandroside A, Chrysandroside B, Xeractinol, Astilbin, and Fustin. The flavonoid may be a flavone (2-phenylchromene-4-one derivative). Flavones include: Apigenin, Luteolin, Tangeritin, Chrysin, Baicalein, Scutellarein, Wogonin, Synthetic Flavones: Diosmin, and Flavoxate. The flavonoid may be a flavonol (3-hydroxy-2-phenylchromen-4-one derivative). Flavonols include: 3-Hydroxyflavone, Azaleatin, Fisetin, Galangin, Gossypetin, Kaempferide, Kaempferol, Isorhamnetin, Morin, Myricetin, Natsudaidaine, Pachypodol, Quercetin, Rhamnazine, Rhamnetin, Azalein, Hyperoside, Isoquercitin, Kaempferitrin, Myricitrin, Quercitrine, Robinin, Rutin, Spiraeoside, Xanthorhamnin, Amurensin, Icariin, and Troxerutin. The flavonoid may be a flavan-3-ol (2-phenyl-3,4-dihydro-2H-chromen-3-ol derivatives). Flavan-3-ols include: Catechin, Epicatechin, Epigallocatechin, Epicatechin Gallate, Epigallocatechin gallate, Epiafzelechin, Fisetinidol, Guibourtinidol, Mesquitol, and Robinetinidol. The flavonoid may be a flavan-4-ol (derived from 2-phenylchroman-4-ol). Flavan-4-ols include: Apiforol and Luteoforol. The flavonoid may be an isoflavone (3-phenylchromen-4-one derivative). Isoflavones include: Genistein, Daidzein, Biochanin A, Formononetin, and the Daidzein metabolite Equol.

The antioxidant may be an anthocyanidin (derived from the 2-phenylchromenylium cation). Anthocyanidins include: Aurantinidin, Cyanidin, Delphinidin, Europinidin, Luteolinidin, Pelargonidin, Malvidin, Peonidin, Petunidin, Rosinidin, and Xanthone.

The antioxidant may be a dihydrochalcone (derived from 1,3-diphenyl-1-propanone). Dihydrochalcones include: Phloretin, Dihydrochalcone phloretin Phlorizin, Aspalathin, Naringin dihydrochalcone, Neohesperidin dihydrochalcone, and Nothofagin. Without limiting the mode of action of the invention, dihydrochalcones can exert an antioxidant effect by reducing reactive free radicals, such as reactive oxygen and reactive nitrogen species.

The antioxidant may be an anthocyanin. Anthocyanins and their derivatives are antioxidants. Anthocyanins encompass a class of flavonoid compounds that are naturally occurring water-soluble compounds, responsible for the red, purple, and blue colors of many fruits, vegetables, grains, and flowers. Additionally, anthocyanins are collagenase inhibitors. Collagenase inhibition helps prevent and reduce wrinkles, increase skin elasticity, etc. which are caused by a reduction in collagen in the skin. Anthocyanins can be obtained from any portion of various plant sources, such as the fruit, flower, stem, leaves, root, bark or seeds. One skilled in the art will understand that certain portions of the plant may contain higher natural levels of anthocyanins and, therefore, these portions are used to obtain the desired anthocyanins. In some cases, antioxidants may include one or more betacyanins. Betacyanins, like anthocyanins, can be obtained from natural sources and are antioxidants.

The antioxidant may be a phenylpropanoid (cinnamic acid derivatives). Phenylpropanoids include: Cinnamic acid, caffeic acid, ferulic acid, trans-ferulic acid (including its antioxidant pharmacore, 2,6-dihydroxyacetophenome), 5-hydroxyferulic acid, sinapic, coumaryl alcohol, coniferyl alcohol, sinapyl alcohol, eugenol, chavicol, safrole, P-coumaric acid and sinapinic acid. Without limiting the mode of action of the invention, phenylpropanoids can neutralize free radicals.

The antioxidant may be a chalcone (1,3-diphenyl-2-propen-1-one derivative). Chalcones include: Butein, Okanine, Carthamine, Maréin, Sophoradine, Xanthohumol, Flavokvaine A, Flavokavaine B, Flavokavine C, and synthetic Safalcone.

The antioxidant may be a curcuminoid. Curcuminoids include: curcumin, desmethoxycurcumin, bis-desmethoxycurcumin, tetrahydrocurcumin and tetrahydrocurcuminoids. Curcumin and tetrahydrocurcuminoids can be derived from the rhizomes of Curcuma longa. Tetrahydrocurcumin, a metabolite of curcumin, has been shown to be a more powerful and stable antioxidant than curcumin.

The antioxidant may be a tannin. Tannins include: Tannin, terflavin B, glucogallin, D-gallic acid and quercitannic acid.

The antioxidant may be a stilbenoid. Stilbenoids include: Resveratrol, Pterostilbene, and Piceatannol. Resveratrol may include, but is not limited to, 3,5,4'-trihydroxystilbene, 3,4,3',5'-tetrahydroxystilbene (piceatannol), 2,3',4,5'-tetrahydroxystilbene ( oxyresveratrol), 4,4'-dihydroxystilbene and its alpha and beta glucoside, galactoside and mannoside derivatives.

The antioxidant may be a coumarin (derivatives of 2H-chromene-2-one). Coumarins include: 4-Hydroxycoumarin, Umbelliferone, Aesculetin, Herniarin, Auraptene, and Dicoumarol.

The antioxidant may be a carotenoid. Carotenoids include: beta-carotene, alpha-carotene, gamma-carotene, beta-cryptoxanthin, lycopene, lutein and idebenone. Sesame (Sesamum indicum) or sesame lignans can also be added. Sesame and its lignans (the fibrous compounds associated with sesame) act as antioxidants. Sesame seed lignans significantly enhance the activity of vitamin E.

The antioxidant can be: chicoric, Chlorogenic acid, Rosmarinic acid, Salicylic acid, Acetylcysteine, S-Allyl cysteine, Barbigerone, Chebulagic acid, Edaravone, Ethoxyquin, Glutathione, Hydroxytyrosol, Idebenone, Melatonin, N-Acetylserotonin, Nordihydroguaiaretic acid, Oleocanthal, Oleuropein, Paradol, Piceat annol, Probucol, Propyl Gallate, Protocatechuic Acid, Pyritinol, Rutin, Secoisolariciresinol diglucoside, Sesamin, Sesamol, Silibinin, Silymarin, Theaflavin, Theaflavin Digallate, Thmoquinone, Trolox, Tyrosol, Polyunsaturated fatty acids, and sulfur-based antioxidants such as Methionine or Lipoic acid.

Active agents for the skin

Non-limiting examples of active agents for the skin include madecassoside, retinoic acid, benzoyl peroxide, sulfur, vitamin B6 (pyridoxine or) chloride, selenium, samphire -- mixtures of extract of cinnamon, tea and octanoylglycine such as Sepicontrol A5 TEA from Seppic -- the mixture of cinnamon, sarcosine and octanoylglycine marketed in particular by Seppic under the trade name Sepicontrol A5 -- zinc salts such as zinc gluconate, pyrrolidonecarboxylate zinc (or zinc pidolate), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate, zinc cysteate; -- derivatives in particular of copper and copper pidolate in the form of Cuivridone Solabia - plant extracts of Arnica montana, Cinchona succirubra, Eugenia caryophyllata, Humulus lupulus, Hypericum perforatum, Mentha pipenta Rosmarinus officinalis, Salvia officinalis and Thymus vulgaris, all marketed for example by Maruzen - extracts of meadowsweet (Spiraea ulmaria), such as that sold under the name Sebonormine by Silab -- extracts of the algae Laminaria saccharina, such as that sold under the name Phlorogine by Biotechmarine -- root extracts of burnet mixtures (Sanguisorba officinalis/Poterium officinale), ginger rhizomes (Zingiber officinalis) and cinnamon bark (Cinnamomum cassia), such as those sold under the name Sebustop by Solabia -- extracts of flax seeds such as those sold under the name Linumine by Lucas Meyer -- Phellodendron extracts such as those sold under the name Phellodendron extract BG by Maruzen or Oubaku liquid B by Ichimaru Pharcos -- oil blends of argan extract of Serenoa serrulata (dwarf palm) and sesame seeds such as that sold under the name Regu SEB by Pentapharm – mixtures of extracts of willowherb, Terminalia chebula, nasturtium and bioavailable zinc (microalgae ), such as that sold under the name Seborilys Green Tech; -- extracts of Pygeum afrianum such as those sold under the name Pygeum afrianum sterolic lipid extract by Euromed -- extracts of Serenoa serrulata such as those sold under the name Viapure Sabal by Actives International, and those sold by the company Euromed -- plantain, Berberis aquifolium and sodium salicylate mixture extracts such as those sold under the name Seboclear Rahn -- clove extract such as that sold under the name clove extract powder by Maruzen -- argan oil such as that sold under the name Lipofructyl Laboratoires Serobiologique; -- lactic protein filtrates, such as that sold under the name Normaseb by Sederma -- extracts of kelp algae, such as that sold under the name Laminarghane by Biotechmarine -- oligosaccharides from the alga Laminaria digitata, such as those sold under the name Phycosaccharide AC by the company Codif -- sugar cane extracts such as those sold under the name Policosanol by the company Sabinsa, sulfonated shale oil, such as that sold under the name Ichtyol Pale by Ichthyol -- extracts of meadowsweet (Spiraea ulmaria) such as those sold under the name Cytobiol Ulmaire by the company Libiol -- sebacic acid, notably sold in the form of sodium polyacrylate gel under the name Sebosoft de Sederma -- glucomannans extracted from the konjac tuber and modified by alkylsulfonate chains such as that sold under the name Biopol Beta from Arch Chemical -- extracts of Sophora angustifolia, such as those sold under the name Sophora powder or Sophora extract by Bioland -- extracts of cinchona succirubra bark such as those sold under the name Red Bark HS by Alban Muller -- extracts of Quillaja saponaria such as those sold under the name Panama wood HS by Alban Muller -- glycine grafted on an undecylenic chain, such as that sold under the name Lipacide UG OR by SEPPIC -- the mixture of oleanolic acid and nordihydroguaiaretic acid, such as that sold in gel form under the name AC. Net of Sederma; -- sorting (C ₁₂ -C ₁₃ ) phthalimidoperoxyhexanoic acid citrate sold under the name COSMACOL.RTM ECI from Sasol; trialkyl citrate (C ₁₄ -C ₁₅ ) sold under the name COSMACOL.RTM. Sasol ECL; 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, including mixtures of hydroxydecanoic acid, sebacic acid and 1,10-decandiol such as that sold under the name Acnacidol BG by Vincience and their mixtures.

Depigmenting agents

Non-limiting examples of depigmenting agents include alpha and beta arbutin, ferulic acid, lucinol and its derivatives, kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, tranexamic acid and its derivatives, gentisic acid, homogentisic acid, methyl gentisate or homogentisate, dioic acid, D panthetein calcium sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, linoleic acid and its derivatives, certain compounds derived from plants such as chamomile, bearberry, the aloe family (vera, ferox, bardensis), mulberry, skullcap , a water kiwi (Actinidia chinensis) marketed by Gattefosse, an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa root, such as that sold by Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Liquid Botanpi Be an extract of brown sugar (Saccharum officinarum) such as the extract of molasses marketed by Taiyo Kagaku under the name Liquid Molasses, without this list being exhaustive. Among the particular depigmenting agents, we can cite alpha and beta arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, D panthetein calcium sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, a water kiwi (Actinidia chinensis) marketed by Gattefosse, a root extract of Paeonia suffruticosa, such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B.

Anti-wrinkle agent

The term "anti-wrinkle agent" refers to a natural or synthetic compound producing a biological effect, such as increasing the synthesis and/or activity of certain enzymes, when brought into contact with an area of wrinkled skin, which has the effect of reducing the appearance of wrinkles and/or fine lines. Non-limiting examples of anti-wrinkle agents include: desquamating agents, anti-glycation agents, NO-synthase inhibitors, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and/or preventing their degradation, agents for stimulating proliferation. fibroblasts and/or keratinocytes, or to stimulate the differentiation of keratinocytes; muscle relaxants and/or dermo-relaxants, anti-free radical agents, and mixtures thereof. Examples of such compounds are: adenosine and its derivatives and retinoids other than retinol (as discussed above, such as retinol palmitate), ascorbic acid and its derivatives such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; nicotinic acid and its precursors such as nicotinamide; ubiquinone; glutathione and its precursors such as L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid, C-glycoside compounds and their derivatives as described in particular in document EP-1345919, in particular C-beta-D-xylopyranoside- 2-hydroxy-propane as described in particular in document EP-1345919, plant extracts including marine fennel and olive leaf extracts, as well as plants and their hydrolysates such as rice protein hydrolysates or soy protein; extracts of algae and in particular of kelp, bacterial extracts, sapogenins such as diosgenin and extracts of Dioscorea plants, in particular wild yam, comprising: a-hydroxy acids, f3-hydroxy acids, such as salicylic acid and n-octanoyl-5-salicylic oligopeptides and pseudodipeptides and their acylated derivatives, in particular {2-[acetyl-(3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl)-amino]-3-methyl-}acetic acid and lipopeptides marketed by the company under the trade names SEDERMA Matrixyl 500 and Matrixyl 3000; lycopene, manganese salts and magnesium salts, in particular gluconates, and mixtures thereof. In at least one case, the skin firming composition includes adenosine derivatives, such as non-phosphate adenosine derivatives, such as in particular 2'-deoxyadenosine, 2',3'-adenosine isopropoylidene ; toyocamycin, 1-methyladenosine, N-6-methyladenosine; adenosine N-oxide, 6-methylmercaptopurine riboside, and 6-chloropurine riboside. Other derivatives include adenosine receptor agonists such as phenylisopropyl adenosine ("PIA"), 1-methylisoguanosine, N6-cyclohexyladenosine (CHA), N6-cyclopentyladenosine (CPA), 2-chloro-N6-cyclopentyladenosine, 2- chloroadenosine, N6-phenyladenosine, 2-phenylaminoadenosine, MECA, N 6-phenethyladenosine, 2-p-(2-carboxy-ethyl) phenethyl-amino-5'-N-ethylcarboxamido adenosine (CGS-21680), N-ethylcarboxamido-adenosine (NECA), 5'(N-cyclopropyl)-carboxamidoadenosine, DPMA (PD 129.944) and metrifudil.

As already noted, the skin active agents may be included in one or more of the various ingredients. With respect to the total amount of skin active agents in the cosmetic compositions, if present, the total amount of skin active agents may be greater than zero to about 9% by weight, greater than zero to about 8% by weight, greater than zero at about 7% by weight, greater than zero at about 6% by weight, greater than zero at about 5% by weight, greater than zero at about 4% by weight, greater than zero at about 3% by weight, greater than zero to about 2% by weight; about 10 ppm to about 10 wt.% (100,000 ppm), about 10 ppm to about 5 wt.% (50,000 ppm), about 10 ppm to about 2.5 wt.% (25,000 ppm), about 10 ppm at about 1 wt% (10,000 ppm), about 10 ppm at about 0.5 wt% (5,000 ppm), about 10 ppm at about 0.3 wt% (3,000 ppm), about 10 ppm at about 0.2 wt% (2000 ppm), about 10 ppm to about 0.1 wt% (1000 ppm), about 10 ppm to 500 ppm; about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 2.5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 1% by weight, about 0.1 approximately 0.5% by weight; about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight, about 1 to about 6% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, about 1 to about 4% by weight, about 1 to about 3 % in weight % ; about 2 to about 10% by weight, about 2 to about 8% by weight, about 2 to about 6% by weight, about 2 to about 5% by weight, about 2 to about 4% by weight; about 3 to about 10% by weight, about 3 to about 8% by weight, about 3 to about 6% by weight, about 3 to about 5% by weight, about 2 to about 4% by weight; about 3 to about 10% by weight, about 3 to about 8% by weight, about 3 to about 6% by weight, about 3 to about 5% by weight; about 4 to about 10% by weight, about 4 to about 8% by weight, or about 4 to about 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Example 15 (Miscibility data)

Equal parts of various compositions were physically mixed together to determine if they were miscible with each other. The degree of miscibility was estimated on a scale of 1 to 5, where 1 indicates very poor miscibility (i.e. lump formation, sedimentation, coagulation, phase shift, etc.) and 5 indicates excellent miscibility (i.e. no lumps, sedimentation, coagulation, phase shift, etc.) The results are presented in the tables below.

Anhydrous
Example 15A Anhydrous
Example 15B oil in water
Example 1C Anhydrous + Oil in water
Example 15A + Example 1C Water in silicone
Example 6B 5 5 5 5 Oil in water
Example 3B 5 5 5 5 Oil in water
Example 9B 4 4 5 5 Water in silicone Commercial reference 1 1 2 4 Anhydrous
Commercial reference 1 1 1 1

Anhydrous
Example 15A Anhydrous
Example 15B Oil in water Example 1B Anhydrous + Oil in water
Example 15A + Example 1B Water in silicone Example 11C 2 2 2 5

DEFINITIONS

Miscibility, as used herein, relates to the ability of one or more cosmetic compositions to be physically mixed and to form a uniform mixture for immediate application to the skin without visible signs of caking, sedimentation, coagulation and phase shift.

As used herein, an "emulsion gel" is also referred to in the art as an "emulsion gel." A gel emulsion is an oil-in-water emulsion, which is a composite structure of oil droplets in a gel matrix. They can be classified into two categories: gels filled with emulsion and gels with emulsion particles.

As used herein, the terms “comprising”, “having” and “including” (or “include”, “have” and “include”) are used in their broad and non-limiting sense. The term “consisting essentially of” limits the scope of a claim to specified materials or steps and to those which do not materially affect the fundamental and novel features of the claimed invention.

The terms “un”, “une”, “le” and “la” are understood to include the plural and the singular.

Thus, the expression “a mixture of these” also refers to “mixtures of these”. Throughout the disclosure, if the phrase "a mixture thereof" is used, it follows a list of elements as shown in the following example where the letters A-F represent the elements: "one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, or mixtures thereof. The phrase "a mixture thereof" does not require that the mixture include all elements A, B, C, D, E and F (although all elements A, B, C, D, E and F may be included). Rather, it indicates that a mixture of two or more of elements A, B, C, D, E and F can be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the expression "one or more elements chosen from A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture of any two or more elements from A, B, C, D, E and F.”

Likewise, the expression “a salt thereof” also refers to “salts thereof”. Thus, when the disclosure refers to "an element selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt thereof, or mixtures thereof," it indicates that a or more of A, B, C, D, and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included, or a mixture of any two of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included.

The salts referred to throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counterion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium counterion. This list of counterions is, however, not exhaustive. Suitable counterions for the components described herein are known in the art.

The expression “one or more” means “at least one” and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

The term “plurality” means “more than one” or “two or more.”

An “alkyl radical” is a group based on saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbons, in particular in C ₁ -C ₈ , more particularly in C ₁ -C ₆ , more preferably in C ₁ -C ₄ , such as methyl, ethyl, isopropyl and tert-butyl;

An “alkoxy radical” is an alkyl-oxy in which the alkyl is as described above;

An “alkenyl radical” is a group based on unsaturated, linear, or branched hydrocarbons, particularly in C ₂ -C ₈ , more particularly in C ₂ -C ₆ , more preferably in C ₂ -C ₄ , such as ethylenyl, propylenyl;

An “alkylene radical” is saturated divalent, linear or branched, in C ₁ -C ₈ , in particular in C ₁ -C ₆ , preferably in C ₁ -C ₄ such as methylene, ethylene, propylene.

Some of the various categories of components identified for cosmetic compositions may overlap. In those cases where overlap may exist and the composition/product includes two overlapping components (or more than two overlapping components), an overlapping component represents no more than one component. As an example, a fatty acid can be considered both a “non-triglyceride, non-aromatic fatty emollient” and a “surfactant/emulsifier”. If a particular composition/product includes both a non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty emollient component and a surfactant/emulsifier component, a single type of fatty acid may serve solely as the non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty emollient or surfactant component. /emulsifier (a single fatty acid does not serve as both a non-triglyceride and non-aromatic fatty emollient component and a surfactant/emulsifier component).

All percentages, parts and ratios stated herein are based on the total weight of the compositions of the present invention unless otherwise noted.

All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For example, any value or point described here that falls within a range described here can serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a subrange, etc. Additionally, all ranges provided are intended to include each specific range within the given ranges, as well as any combination of subranges in between. So, a range of 1 to 5 specifically includes points 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as subranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, etc. ; and points 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 include ranges and subranges of 1-5, 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, etc.

Elsewhere than in operational examples, or unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions may be modified by the term "approximately", whether or not expressly indicated.

Furthermore, all figures are intended to represent exact values as additional embodiments, whether or not modified by the term "approximately". For example, “an amount of approximately 1%” can be modified to refer to exactly 1%. In another example, "an amount of 1%" can be modified to refer to "approximately 1%." Unless otherwise stated, the term “approximately” is understood to encompass a range of +/- 10% of the number stated. However, in some embodiments, the term may be defined to encompass narrower ranges, for example, +/- 1%, 2%, 3%, 4%, 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%. %, 9% and 10% to the nearest number specified.

The terms “surfactants” and “emulsifiers” include salts of surfactants and emulsifiers, even if they are not explicitly mentioned. In other words, whenever the disclosure refers to a surfactant or emulsifier, it is understood that salts are also included to the extent that such salts exist, even though the disclosure may not specifically refer to a salt (or may not refer to a salt in each case throughout the disclosure), for example, by using a language element such as “a salt thereof” or “salts thereof” . Sodium and potassium are common cations that form salts with surfactants and emulsifiers. However, other cations such as ammonium ions or alkanolammonium ions such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions, can also form surfactant salts.

The term “substantially free” or “substantially free” as used herein means that the specific material may be present in small quantities that do not materially affect the fundamental and novel features of the claimed invention. For example, there may be less than 2% by weight of a specific material added to a composition, based on the total weight of the composition (provided that less than 2% by weight does not materially affect the fundamental and innovative characteristics of the claimed invention). Likewise, a composition "substantially free" or "substantially free" of a listed material may include less than 1.5% by weight, less than 1% by weight, less than 0.5% by weight, less than 0, 1% by weight, less than 0.05% by weight, or less than 0.01% by weight, or none of the material indicated. The term "substantially free" or "substantially free" as used herein may also mean that the specific material is not added to the composition but may still be present in a raw material that is included in the composition.

Furthermore, any components that are positively specified in the present disclosure may be negatively excluded from the claims, i.e., a claimed composition may be "free", "essentially free" (or "free"). substantially free") from one or more components which are positively specified in the present disclosure. For example, silicones may optionally be included in cosmetic compositions but, preferably, the compositions are free or essentially free of silicones. Silicones are synthetic polymers made up of repeating units of elemental siloxane, silicon and oxygen, combined with other elements, most commonly carbon and hydrogen. Thus, silicones are also called polysiloxanes. In some cases, the cosmetic compositions herein may be free or essentially free of dimethicones, amodimethicones, dimethiconols, cyclosiloxanes, siloxanes, etc.

Claims (9)

Kit comprising two or more cosmetic compositions contained separately which are miscible with each other upon mixing, in which each of the two or more compositions comprises:
(a) a viscosity of at least 1,800 cPs or a storage modulus (G') greater than the loss modulus (G'') for a viscosity less than 1,800 cPs; And
(b) a maximum flow stress of 9000 Pa, for example, a maximum flow stress of less than 7500 Pa, less than 5000 Pa, less than 2500 Pa, less than 2000 Pa, less than 1 500 Pa or less than 1250 Pa; And
in which the two or more cosmetic compositions are chosen from:
(i) oil-in-water emulsions comprising at least 40% by weight of water and about 1 to about 20% by weight of an oil phase, based on the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsion;
(ii) water-in-silicone emulsions comprising at least 70% by weight of an aqueous phase (internal phase), relative to the total weight of the silicone emulsion; And
(iii) anhydrous compositions, in which at least 90% by weight of the ingredients forming the anhydrous compositions have a log P value of 2 or less, for example, 1.5 or less, 1 or less, 0.75 or less, 0.5 or less, 0.25 or 0,
wherein the kit is an apparatus for independently dispensing a specified quantity of each of the two or more cosmetic compositions, wherein the apparatus includes a dispensing assembly configured to receive a plurality of cartridges in which the two or more cosmetic compositions are contained separately and a receiving area into which each of the two or more cosmetic compositions is dispensed. A kit according to claim 1, wherein at least one of the two or more compositions is an oil-in-water emulsion. The kit of claim 2, wherein the oil-in-water emulsion comprises retinol, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine, ceramides, or a mixture thereof. A kit according to claim 2 or 3, wherein the oil-in-water emulsion comprises retinol. A kit according to any of claims 2 to 4, wherein the oil-in-water emulsion comprises hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, e.g., about 10 to about 40 weight percent hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, based on total weight oil-in-water emulsion. A kit according to any one of claims 2 to 5, wherein the oil-in-water emulsion further comprises 4-t-butylcyclohexanol. A kit according to any one of claims 2 to 6, wherein the oil-in-water emulsion comprises acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine, for example, about 1 to about 5% by weight of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine. Kit according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein each cartridge of the plurality of cartridges of the device contains a different cosmetic composition. Skin treatment process comprising:
(A) the mixture of two or more cosmetic compositions which are miscible with each other upon mixing, in which each of the two or more compositions comprises:
(a) a viscosity of at least 1,800 cPs or a storage modulus (G’) greater than the loss modulus (G’’) for a viscosity less than 1,800 cPs; And
(b) a maximum flow stress of 9000 Pa, for example, a maximum flow stress of less than 7500 Pa, less than 5000 Pa, less than 2500 Pa, less than 2000 Pa, less than 1 500 Pa or less than 1250 Pa; And
in which the two or more cosmetic compositions are chosen from:

1. oil-in-water emulsions comprising at least 40% by weight of water and about 1 to about 20% by weight of an oil phase, relative to the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsion;

(ii) water-in-silicone emulsions comprising at least 70% by weight of an aqueous phase (internal phase), relative to the total weight of the silicone emulsion; And
(iii) anhydrous compositions, in which at least 90% by weight of the ingredients forming the anhydrous compositions have a log P value of 2 or less, for example 1.5 or less, 1 or less, 0.75 or less, 0 .5 or less, 0.25 or less, or 0; And
(B) applying the mixture to the skin.