FR3122826A1 - METHODS AND COMPOSITIONS FOR IMPROVING SKIN - Google Patents

Abstract

METHODS AND COMPOSITIONS FOR SKIN IMPROVEMENT A method of managing skin tone comprising reducing melanin synthesis by applying a skin treatment composition to the skin. The skin treatment composition can include about 0.1 to about 25% by weight acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine; about 0.5 to about 30% by weight of a polyol; about 0.1 to about 30% by weight of a silicone, fatty compound, or mixture thereof, wherein the skin treatment composition is an emulsion, and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the skin treatment composition Figure for the abstract: 1

Description

METHODS AND COMPOSITIONS FOR IMPROVING SKIN

area of disclosure

The present disclosure relates to skin treatment compositions and methods of improving skin tone using these skin treatment compositions.

context of the disclosure

Products intended to manage skin tone, and in some cases reduce skin tone discoloration, have become popular. In particular, consumers desire products to reduce discoloration of the complexion associated with dyschromia, such as freckles, age spots, lentigines, melasma, age spots, lentigo senile and chloasma.

Expressions of dyschromia are generally thought to be the result of, or at least partially induced by, exposure of the skin to sunlight. For example, ultraviolet (UV) rays accelerate the production of melanin, a natural pigment that gives skin its color. While many consumers use products to protect their skin from UV rays produced by the sun, more than 90% of solar energy comes from visible light and infrared (IR) rays. Visible light and IR radiation, especially IRA (770-1400 nm), penetrate deeper into human skin than UV radiation, and can easily reach the dermis. Visible light, especially high-energy visible light, can induce pigmentation in a manner similar to UVA.

Accordingly, there is a continuing need for skin treatment compositions and methods for managing skin tone.

SUMMARY OF DISCLOSURE

The present disclosure relates to skin treatment compositions and methods for managing skin tone using such skin treatment compositions. According to certain aspects of the disclosure, the skin treatment methods and compositions disclosed herein can be used to beneficially improve skin tone consistency and/or reduce skin tone discoloration. Further, the skin treatment compositions can reduce skin inflammation, for example, resulting from eczema, acne and psoriasis, which has traditionally been a relatively difficult effect to achieve. In some instances, skin treatment compositions and methods of use may be useful in reducing dark circles under the eyes, which is an unexpected effect.

A method of managing skin tone according to one aspect of the disclosure typically includes:

(a) reducing melanin synthesis by applying a skin treatment composition to the skin, the treatment of the skin comprising:

(i) about 0.1 to about 25% by weight acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine; and

(ii) optionally, about 0.1 to about 90% by weight of a silicone, a fatty compound or a mixture thereof,

wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the skin treatment composition.

Preferably, the method reduces melanin synthesis by about 5% or more. For example, the process can reduce melanin synthesis by about 15% or more. The method may include applying the skin treatment composition at least twice daily. In some cases, the skin treatment composition is applied at least once a day for about 20 days or more.

The method may further comprise a step of inducing melanin synthesis in the skin before the step of reducing melanin synthesis by applying the skin treatment composition to the skin. For example, a skin procedure can be applied to the skin, which induces melanin synthesis, prior to application of the skin treatment composition. Melanin synthesis can additionally or alternatively be induced by an inflammatory response in the skin. In some instances, the method may induce melanin synthesis and/or skin dyschromia using a procedure selected from a laser procedure, a micro-needle procedure, a cryotherapy procedure, a radiofrequency micro-needle procedure, or a combination of these. In other cases, the method may induce melanin synthesis and/or skin dyschromia using a home procedure selected from a micro-needle procedure, a light therapy procedure (e.g., red light and /or blue), a high frequency procedure, or a combination of these. The method may include reducing melanin synthesis in the skin under the eyes, for example, to reduce the appearance of dark circles under the eyes.

According to another aspect of the disclosure, a method is provided for treating skin exhibiting one or more of eczema, acne and psoriasis, the method comprising:

(a) reducing inflammation of skin exhibiting one or more of eczema, acne and psoriasis by applying an amount of skin treatment composition, the skin treatment composition comprising:

(i) about 0.1 to about 25% by weight acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine; and

(ii) optionally, about 0.1 to about 90% by weight of a silicone, a fatty compound or a mixture thereof,

wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the skin treatment composition.

The method can include applying an effective amount of the skin treatment composition to the skin. In some cases, the amount of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine applied to the skin is from about 0.1 to about 9 g/dm ² . The methods described herein may include applying a skin treatment composition which further comprises about 0.5 to about 30% by weight of a polyol selected from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3 propanediol, glycerine, polyethylene glycols and a mixture thereof.

In yet another aspect, there is provided a skin treatment composition typically including:

1. about 0.1 to about 25% by weight acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine;
2. about 0.1 to about 90% by weight of a silicone, a fatty compound or a mixture thereof,

wherein the skin treatment composition is an emulsion, the skin treatment compositions being formulated to synthesize melanin in the epidermal layer of the skin, and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition of skin treatment.

The skin treatment composition can include: (iii) about 0.5 to about 30% by weight of a polyol selected from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3 propanediol, glycerin, polyethylene glycols, and a mixture thereof.

Additionally or alternatively, the skin treatment composition may contain about 0.1 to about 30% by weight of a fatty compound selected from fatty alcohol, fatty ester, fatty ether, fatty acid, hydrocarbon, derivatives thereof or mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of fatty compounds include fatty alcohols selected from decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol , cis-4-t-butylcyclohexanol, isotridecyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. The fatty compound may be a hydrocarbon oil of plant origin chosen from coconut oil, soybean oil, canola oil, rapeseed oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, olive oil, palm oil, groundnut, safflower oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, linseed oil, palm kernel oil, tung oil, jatropha oil, mustard oil, camelina oil, cress oil, castor oil, seed oil wheat, apricot kernel oil, pistachio oil, poppy seed oil, pine oil, avocado oil, hazelnut oil, grapeseed oil, rapeseed oil, cade oil, peach kernel oil, coffee bean oil, jojoba oil, and mixtures thereof.

The skin treatment composition may contain about 0.1 to about 30% by weight of a silicone selected from lauryl peg-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, dimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, dimethicone, acrylate/dimethicone polymer, and mixtures of these.

In some cases, the skin treatment composition includes about 0.1 to about 15% by weight of a skin active agent. Non-limiting examples of skin active agents include those selected from sodium hyaluronate, capryloyl salicylic acid, coco caprylate/caprate, alpha and/or beta arbutin, ferulic acid, lucinol, kojic acid, resorcinol, tranexamic acid, gentisic, homogentisic acid, methyl gentisate or homogentisate, dioic acid, calcium D panthetein sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, linoleic acid, stilbenoid, coumarin, tannin, curcuminoid, chalcone, phenylpropanoid, anthocyanin, dihydrochalcone, anthocyanidin, tocopherols, sesame lignin, vitamin C, derivatives thereof, salts thereof or mixtures thereof. The skin treatment compositions can be used in methods of treating and/or alleviating skin suffering from one or more of eczema, acne and psoriasis.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF FIGURES

The implementation of this technology will now be described, by way of example only, with reference to the attached figures, in which:

The depicts images of skin cells in vitro illustrating melanin synthesis after applications of various compositions according to aspects of the disclosure;

The is a bar graph showing the amount of melanin in in vitro skin cells of the ;

Figures 3A and 3B are bar graphs showing the amount of COX-2 expression and p38 gene expression, respectively, for cell cultures treated with compositions containing prostaglandin E ₂ , acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine, and combinations thereof according to aspects of the disclosure;

The is a bar graph evaluating change in dyschromia after receiving application of a non-limiting exemplary skin treatment composition or comparative composition according to aspects of the disclosure; and

The is a bar graph illustrating the level of inhibition of melanin synthesis for cell cultures based on treatment of compositions containing lipoic acid or acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine according to aspects of the disclosure.

It should be understood that the various aspects are not limited to the arrangements and instruments shown in the drawings.

detailed description of the disclosure

The present disclosure relates to skin treatment methods and compositions for managing skin tone. Skin treatment methods and compositions can desirably provide improved skin tone consistency and/or reduce skin tone discoloration. For example, methods and compositions for treating the skin can reduce dyschromia, such as freckles, age spots, lentigines, melasma, age spots, lentigo senile and/or chloasma.

The inventors have been surprised to find that the methods and compositions for treating the skin can also reduce inflammation of the skin, resulting for example from eczema, acne and psoriasis, an effect relatively difficult to obtain. traditionally. In some cases, skin treatment compositions and methods of use may reduce dark circles under the eyes, which is an unexpected effect.

A method of managing skin tone according to one aspect of the disclosure typically includes:

(a) reducing melanin synthesis by applying a skin treatment composition to the skin, the treatment of the skin comprising:

(i) about 0.1 to about 25% by weight acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine; and

(ii) optionally, about 0.1 to about 90% by weight of a silicone, a fatty compound or a mixture thereof,

wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the skin treatment composition.

Methods of managing skin tone typically include reducing melanin synthesis in the epidermal layer of the skin. For example, the methods generally include applying a skin treatment composition to the skin to reduce the amount of melanin synthesized by melanocyte cells in the epidermal layer. Surprisingly, in some instances, skin treatment methods and compositions are effective in reducing melanin synthesis which has been induced by an external factor. These external factors that can induce melanin synthesis include, but are not limited to, skin treatment procedures aimed at encouraging or inducing skin cell growth and/or repair, exposure of the skin to sunlight and exposure of melanocyte cells to certain chemicals. In some cases, melanin synthesis can be induced by inflammatory responses in the skin.

For example, skin treatment methods and compositions may be effective in reducing the amount of melanin synthesized in response to induction by skin treatment procedures. Skin treatment procedures can be performed by a professional or can be home skin treatment procedures performed by the user. Examples of professional skin treatment procedures include laser procedures, microneedling procedures, cryotherapy procedures, radio frequency microneedling procedures, or combinations thereof. Examples of home skin treatment procedures include microneedling procedures, light therapy procedures (eg, near infrared red light and/or near ultraviolet blue light), high frequency procedures, or a combination of these.

Additionally, the inventors were surprised to find that certain skin treatment methods and compositions disclosed herein provide significant reduction in skin inflammation. For example, certain skin treatment methods and compositions may be useful for reducing inflammation of skin suffering from one or more of eczema, acne, and psoriasis. Accordingly, according to another aspect of the disclosure, there are methods of treating skin having one or more of eczema, acne and psoriasis, the method comprising:

(a) reducing inflammation of skin exhibiting one or more of eczema, acne and psoriasis by applying an amount of skin treatment composition, the skin treatment composition comprising:

(i) about 0.1 to about 25% by weight acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine; and

(ii) optionally, about 0.1 to about 90% by weight of a silicone, a fatty compound or a mixture thereof,

wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the skin treatment composition.

According to yet another aspect of the disclosure, use of the skin treatment compositions disclosed herein is provided for skin exhibiting one or more of eczema, acne and psoriasis. For example, according to one embodiment, there is provided use of a skin treatment composition for skin exhibiting one or more of eczema, acne, and psoriasis, comprising:

(a) reducing inflammation of skin having one or more of eczema, acne and psoriasis, by applying an amount of skin treatment composition, the skin treatment composition comprising:

(i) about 0.1 to about 25% by weight acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine; and

(ii) optionally, about 0.1 to about 90% by weight of a silicone, a fatty compound or a mixture thereof,

wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the skin treatment composition.

According to another aspect of the disclosure, use is provided of the skin treatment compositions disclosed herein for managing skin tone. In one embodiment, there is provided use of a skin treatment composition for managing skin tone comprising:

(a) reducing melanin synthesis by applying a skin treatment composition to the skin, the treatment of the skin comprising:

(i) about 0.1 to about 25% by weight acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine; and

(ii) optionally, about 0.1 to about 90% by weight of a silicone, a fatty compound or a mixture thereof,

wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the skin treatment composition.

A more detailed description of skin treatment procedures that may be applied to the skin prior to or as part of skin tone management and/or inflammation reduction procedures is provided below.

The skin treatment procedure can be an ablative or non-ablative laser procedure and in some cases can be a fractional or non-fractional laser procedure. For example, the laser procedure may use a fractional laser which is non-ablative. Typically, skin treatment procedures that use a laser are performed by a professional.

A fractional laser affects the surface of the stratum corneum to create, by local photothermia, a plurality of spaced pores (microwells) in the upper layers of the skin. Preferably, to split the impacts of the laser and space them out on the skin, preferably in a regular manner, the laser system can comprise a motorized scanner which comprises one or more rotating mirrors, the speed of rotation of which causes the laser spot to be scanned. Depending on the fractional laser used, scanning can take place in different trajectories: circular, rectangular or square scanning, or random scanning. Fractional laser treatment may include several successive passages of the laser over a given area so as to obtain a better homogeneity of the treatment. With each pass, new impact points are created, spaced from the previous impact points. An example of a non-ablative fractional laser is the machine sold by the company Solta under the brand name Fraxel re:store® Dual (1927 nm). Other examples of fractional lasers are described in US Patent Application No. 2008/0208179.

The fractional laser wavelength can be in the infrared (IR) range. For example, the laser procedure may use a fractional laser having a wavelength of from about 1100 nm to about 2500 nm, preferably from about 1400 to about 200, or preferably from about 1430 to about 1950. The processing depth can be between about 200 µm and about 1.4 mm. In some cases, the processing depth is about 550 µm to about 1.4 mm, about 800 µm to about 1.4 mm, or about 1120 µm to about 1.4 mm.

Greater depth of treatment and larger wells are obtained when the light output is higher. The size of a microwell can range, for example, from about 0.5 μm in diameter to about 500 μm in diameter, or from about 50 μm to about 350 μm. The density of microwells (also called pores) created by the laser procedure can range from about 100 to about 10,000 microwells per square centimeter (cm ² ). In some cases, the microwell density per square centimeter is about 100 to about 9000, about 100 to about 8000, about 100 to about 7000, about 100 to about 6000, about 100 to about 5000, about 100 to about 4000, about 100 to about 3000, about 100 to about 2000, or about 100 to about 1000.

The irradiance, which measures the power density received by the skin to be treated, is preferably between approximately 25 kW/cm ² and approximately 4 MW/cm ² . The fluence of the laser treatment, which measures the density of energy received on the surface of the skin to be treated, is preferably between approximately 4 kJ/cm ² and approximately 160 kJ/cm ² . The energy of a laser pulse to create a microwell can range from about 0.1 mJ to about 50 mJ.

Additional description of laser procedures can be found in U.S. Patent Publication No. 2008/0208179 and PCT Publication No. WO 2008/053198.

The methods may additionally or alternatively utilize a microneedling procedure prior to or as part of the methods described herein. The micro-needles can be solid (for example, hollow or non-hollow needles), with the aim of achieving a micro-puncture, or soluble, allowing the ends to detach after the perforation and the formation of micro-implants with a gradual dissolution in time. The micro-needles can therefore include an orifice for the administration of a skin treatment composition as described here, or be devoid of an orifice. In some cases, microneedles can be used as skin microperforators, facilitating the subsequent application of one or more active agents. Examples of microneedling and microneedling procedures are described in PCT Patent Publication Nos. WO 2007/061964; PCT Patent Publication No. WO 2004/000389; U.S. Patent No. 6,945,952; PCT Patent Publication No. WO 2004/024224; Japanese Patent Publication No. 2005/154321; PCT Patent Publication No. 2007/023167; U.S. Patent Publication No. 2005/065463; PCT Patent Publication No. WO 03/092785; Japanese Patent Publication No. 2005/154321; PCT Patent Publication No. WO 2007/023167; U.S. Patent Publication No. 2005/065463; and PCT Patent Publication No. WO 03/092785.

In some instances, the methods disclosed herein may utilize a radio frequency microneedling procedure prior to or as part of the methods disclosed herein. Radiofrequency microneedling procedures may use one or more electrodes, such as monopolar RF electrodes, which puncture one or more layers of skin tissue. The electrodes are typically arranged in a pattern to imprint a corresponding pattern of perforations in one or more layers of fabric. A more detailed description of radio frequency microneedle devices and their procedures is described in European Patent No. 1742590; U.S. Patent No. 8,317,782; and U.S. Patent No. 6,277,116.

Additionally or alternatively, the methods disclosed herein may utilize a microneedle cryotherapy procedure prior to or as part of the methods disclosed herein. Micro-needle cryotherapy procedures can either cool or heat the skin to damage and reduce skin barrier function. For example, the micro-needle cryotherapy procedure can apply electromagnetic waves in pulsed mode or continuous mode to reduce skin barrier function. Additional description of microneedle cryotherapy procedures and devices can be found in U.S. Patent Nos. 8,548,599 and 7,367,341.

The methods disclosed herein may utilize a light therapy procedure prior to or as part of the methods disclosed herein. The light therapy procedure can be an at-home procedure or a professional procedure. Light therapy procedures typically include photomodulation using narrow-band multichromatic light using low-energy sources, such as light-emitting diode (LED) arrays. As illustrated in U.S. Patent No. 6,663,659, light therapy procedures have been shown to accelerate wound healing, improve many skin-related disorders, and reduce wrinkles, fine lines, and scars. At the cellular level, the use of light at low energy fluences can generate significant biological effects, including cell proliferation, collagen synthesis and the release of growth factors by cells. Light therapy procedures, such as intense pulse light therapy procedures, may be useful in treating moderate to severe melasma and excessive skin pigmentation when combined with skin treatment compositions. A more thorough discussion of light therapy as a means of modulating skin melasma can be found in U.S. Patent Nos. 7,886,748 and 5,290,273. A general discussion of light therapy procedures can be found in U.S. Patent No. 9 192,780.

The skin treatment procedure may be a high frequency procedure which is applied to the skin prior to or as part of the methods disclosed herein. High frequency procedures often use electromagnetic radiation for targeted adipose tissue remodeling, targeted cellulite treatment, body contouring, skin tightening and/or skin rejuvenation. For example, high frequency procedures may use electromagnetic waves to heat the targeted tissue to achieve a desired result. Examples of high frequency procedures can be found in US Patent Nos. 10,124,187 and 10,441,346.

Skin improvement methods typically include applying a skin treatment composition to the skin within 24 hours of the skin treatment procedure. In some cases, it is preferable that the skin treatment composition be applied within about 20 hours, about 16 hours, about 12 hours, about 10 hours, about 8 hours, about 6 hours, about 4 hours, about 2 hours, about 1 hour after applying the skin treatment procedure. Additionally or alternatively, the skin treatment composition can be applied prior to application of the skin treatment procedure to the skin. For example, the skin treatment composition can be applied within 24 hours, within 20 hours, within 16 hours, within 12 hours, within 10 hours, within 8 hours, within 6 hours, within 4 hours, within 2 hours, within an hour before applying the skin treatment procedure.

The methods may preferably include applying the skin treatment composition to the skin more than once before or after applying the skin treatment procedure. In some cases, the skin treatment composition is applied at least twice over a period of one month. In other cases, the skin treatment composition is applied at least three times, at least four times, at least five times, at least six times, at least seven times, at least eight times, at least nine times, or at least ten times over a period of time (eg, one week, two weeks, three weeks, one month, two months, three months, etc.) The method may include applying the treatment to the skin a plurality of times (eg one, two, three, four, five or six times) each day for a period of time (eg one week, two weeks, three weeks, one month, two months, three months, etc.)

Additionally or alternatively, the skin improvement methods may include applying an amount of the skin treatment composition such that about 0.1 gram or more of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine is applied to the skin. For example, the skin treatment composition can be applied such that about 0.1 gram per decimeter (g/dm ² ) or more, about 0.5 g/dm ² or more, about 0.75 g /dm ² or more, about 1 g/dm ² or more, about 1.5 g/dm ² or more, about 2 g/dm ² or more, about 2.5 g/dm ² or more, or about 3 g /dm ² or more of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine is applied to the skin. In some cases, the skin treatment composition is applied such that about 0.1 to about 10 grams per decimeter (g/dm ² ), about 0.1 to about 9 g/dm ² , about 0, 1 to approximately 8 g/dm ² , approximately 0.1 to approximately 7 g/dm ² , approximately 0.1 to approximately 6 g/dm ² , approximately 0.1 to approximately 5 g/dm ² , approximately 0.1 to approximately 4 g/dm ² , approximately 0.1 to approximately 3 g/dm ² , approximately 0.1 to approximately 2 g/dm ² , approximately 0.1 to approximately 1 g/dm ² ; about 0.5 to about 10 grams per decimeter (g/dm ² ), about 0.5 to about 9 g/dm ² , about 0.5 to about 8 g/dm ² , about 0.5 to about 7 g/ dm ² , approximately 0.5 to approximately 6 g/dm ² , approximately 0.5 to approximately 5 g/dm ² , approximately 0.5 to approximately 4 g/dm ² , approximately 0.5 to approximately 3 g/dm ² , approximately 0.5 to approximately 2 g/dm ² , approximately 0.5 to approximately 1 g/dm ² ; or about 1 to about 10 grams per decimeter (g/dm ² ), about 1 to about 9 g/dm ² , about 1 to about 8 g/dm ² , about 1 to about 7 g/dm ² , about 1 to about 6 g/dm ² , about 1 to about 5 g/dm ² , about 1 to about 4 g/dm ² , about 1 to about 3 g/dm ² , or about 1 to about 2 g/dm ² of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine are applied to the skin.

Skin treatment compositions can include various ingredients and/or components, but typically include:

1. about 0.1 to about 25% by weight acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine; and
2. about 0.1 to about 90% by weight of a silicone, a fatty compound or a combination thereof,

wherein the skin treatment composition is an emulsion, the skin treatment compositions being formulated to synthesize melanin in the epidermal layer of the skin, and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition of skin treatment.

The skin treatment compositions are preferably formulated to be a cream, lotion, serum or ampule. For example, the skin treatment compositions can have water-in-oil emulsions, oil-in-water emulsions, silicone-in-water emulsions, water-in-silicone emulsions, or combinations thereof. this. The skin treatment compositions can be used in methods of treating and/or alleviating skin suffering from one or more of eczema, acne and psoriasis.

In some embodiments, it may be desirable that the skin treatment composition not be a gel (eg, comprising or in a layer of gel on a substrate). Thus, in some instances, the total amount of gelling agents/ingredients, such as water-swellable polymers and/or water-insoluble polymers, is less than about 10% by weight, less than about 9 wt%, less than about 8 wt%, less than about 7 wt%, less than about 6 wt%, less than about 5 wt%, less than about 4 wt% , less than about 3 wt%, less than about 2 wt%, less than about 1 wt%, or less than about 0.5 wt%, based on the total weight of the treatment compositions skin.

Additionally or alternatively, the skin treatment compositions can be transparent. The term "transparent" in relation to a transparent composition indicates that the composition has a transmittance of at least 80% at a wavelength of 600 nm, for example measured using a Lambda 40 UV-visible spectrometer The skin treatment compositions can have, for example, a transmittance of at least 80%, at least 90% or at least 95% at a wavelength of 600 nm, measured, for example , using a Lambda 40 UV-visible spectrometer. The term "clear" is interchangeable with the term "transparent" for the purposes of this disclosure.

The skin treatment compositions can be formulated to have a viscosity of from about 1 to about 10,000 cPs at a temperature of 24°C, as measured with the RV-4 disc spindle on a Brookfield DV2T viscometer at a range from 5 to 20 rpm after 90 seconds. For example, the skin treatment composition can have a viscosity of about 1 to about 10,000 cPs, about 1 to about 9,000 cPs, about 1 to about 8,000 cPs, about 1 to about 7,000 cPs, about 1 at about 6000 cPs, about 1 to about 5000 cPs, about 1 to about 4000 cPs, about 1 to about 3000 cPs, about 1 to about 2000 cPs, about 1 to about 1000 cPs, about 1 to about 500 cPs, about 1 to about 250 cPs, about 1 to about 100 cPs; about 100 to about 10,000 cPs, about 100 to about 9,000 cPs, about 100 to about 8,000 cPs, about 100 to about 7,000 cPs, about 100 to about 6,000 cPs, about 100 to about 5,000 cPs, about 100 at about 4000 cPs, about 100 to about 3000 cPs, about 100 to about 2000 cPs, about 100 to about 1000 cPs, about 100 to about 500 cPs, about 100 to about 250 cPs; about 500 to about 10,000 cPs, about 500 to about 9,000 cPs, about 500 to about 8,000 cPs, about 500 to about 7,000 cPs, about 500 to about 6,000 cPs, about 500 to about 5,000 cPs, about 500 at about 4000 cPs, about 500 to about 3000 cPs, about 500 to about 2000 cPs, about 500 to about 1000 cPs; about 1,000 to about 10,000 cPs, about 1,000 to about 9,000 cPs, about 1,000 to about 8,000 cPs, about 1,000 to about 7,000 cPs, about 1,000 to about 6,000 cPs, about 1,000 to about 5000 cPs, about 1000 to about 4000 cPs, about 1000 to about 3000 cPs, about 1000 to about 2000 cPs; about 3,000 to about 10,000 cPs, about 3,000 to about 9,000 cPs, about 3,000 to about 8,000 cPs, about 3,000 to about 7,000 cPs, about 3,000 to about 6,000 cPs, about 3,000 to about 5,000 cps; about 5,000 to about 10,000 cPs, about 5,000 to about 9,000 cPs, about 5,000 to about 8,000 cPs, about 5,000 to about 7,000 cPs; about 7,000 to about 10,000 cPs, about 7,000 to about 9,000 cPs, at a temperature of 24°C as measured with the RV-4 disc spindle on a Brookfield DV2T viscometer at a range of 5 to 20 revs/ minute after 90 seconds.

In some instances, the skin treatment compositions are free or substantially free of hyaluronic acid and/or salts thereof. For example, the skin treatment composition can include less than about 5 wt%, less than about 4 wt%, less than about 3 wt%, less than about 2 wt% or less of about 1% by weight hyaluronic acid and/or salts thereof, based on the total weight of the skin treatment composition. In at least one instance, the skin treatment composition contains about 0 wt% or 0 wt% hyaluronic acid and/or salts thereof, based on the total weight of the skin treatment composition. the skin.

Suitable components, such as those listed below, may be included or excluded from formulations for skin treatment compositions depending on the specific combination of other components, the form of the skin treatment composition ( for example, a cream, lotion, serum or ampule), and/or the use of the skin treatment composition.

Acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine

The skin firming compositions include an amount of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine which can vary, but typically ranges from about 0.1 to about 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the skin treatment composition. For example, the amount of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine present in the skin treatment composition can be from about 0.1 to about 25% by weight, about 0.1 to about 22% by weight, about 0.1 to about 19% by weight, about 0.1 to about 16% by weight, about 0.1 to about 14% by weight, about 0.1 to about 12% by weight, about 0.1 to about 10% by weight , about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, about 0.1 to about 6% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, about 0.1 to about 2% by weight, about 0.1 to about 1% by weight; about 0.25 to about 25% by weight, about 0.25 to about 22% by weight, about 0.25 to about 19% by weight, about 0.25 to about 16% by weight, about 0.25 to about 14% by weight, about 0.25 to about 12% by weight, about 0.25 to about 10% by weight, about 0.25 to about 8% by weight, about 0.25 to about 6% by weight, about 0.25 to about 5 wt%, about 0.25 to about 4 wt%, about 0.25 to about 3 wt%, about 0.25 to about 2 wt%, about 0.25 to about 1 % in weight ; about 0.5 to about 25% by weight, about 0.5 to about 22% by weight, about 0.5 to about 19% by weight, about 0.5 to about 16% by weight, about 0.5 to about 14% by weight, about 0.5 to about 12% by weight, about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, about 0.5 to about 6% by weight, about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, about 0.5 to about 2% by weight, about 0.5 to about 1 % in weight ; about 0.75 to about 25% by weight, about 0.75 to about 22% by weight, about 0.75 to about 19% by weight, about 0.75 to about 16% by weight, about 0.75 to about 14% by weight, about 0.75 to about 12% by weight, about 0.75 to about 10% by weight, about 0.75 to about 8% by weight, about 0.75 to about 6% by weight, about 0.75 to about 5 wt%, about 0.75 to about 4 wt%, about 0.75 to about 3 wt%, about 0.75 to about 2 wt%; about 1 to about 25 wt%, about 1 to about 22 wt%, about 1 to about 19 wt%, about 1 to about 16 wt%, about 1 to about 16 wt%, about 1 to about 14% by weight, about 1 to about 12% by weight, about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight, about 1 to about 6% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, about 1 to about 4 wt%, about 1 to about 3 wt%, about 1 to about 3 wt%, about 1 to about 2 wt%; about 2 to about 25 wt%, about 2 to about 22 wt%, about 2 to about 19 wt%, about 2 to about 16 wt%, about 2 to about 14 wt%, about 2 to about 12 % by weight, about 2 to about 10% by weight, about 2 to about 8% by weight, about 2 to about 6% by weight, about 2 to about 5% by weight, about 2 to about 4% by weight, about 2 to about 3; about 5 to about 25 wt%, about 5 to about 22 wt%, about 5 to about 19 wt%, about 5 to about 16 wt%, about 5 to about 14 wt%, about 5 to about 12 wt%, about 5 to about 10 wt%, about 5 to about 8 wt%; about 7.5 to about 27.5 wt%, about 7.5 to about 22 wt%, about 7.5 to about 19 wt%, about 7.5 to about 16 wt%, about 7.5 about 14% by weight, about 7.5 to about 12% by weight, about 7.5 to about 10% by weight; about 10 to about 27.5% by weight, about 10 to about 22% by weight, about 10 to about 19% by weight, about 10 to about 16% by weight, about 10 to about 14% by weight, about 10 to about 12% by weight; about 15 to about 27.5 wt%, about 15 to about 22 wt%, about 15 to about 19 wt%; about 20 to about 27.5% by weight, about 20 to about 22% by weight, including intermediate ranges and subranges, based on the total weight of the skin treatment composition.

Polyol(s)

The skin treatment composition can preferably include one or more polyols. The total amount of polyols in the skin treatment composition can vary, for example, from about 0.5 to about 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the skin treatment composition. For example, the total amount of polyol can range from about 0.5 to about 30% by weight, about 0.5 to about 25% by weight, about 0.5 to about 20% by weight, about 0.5 to about 18% by weight, about 0.5 to about 16% by weight, about 0.5 to about 14% by weight, about 0.5 to about 12% by weight, about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, about 0.5 to about 7% by weight, about 0.5 to about 6% by weight, about 0.5 to about 5% by weight; about 1 to about 30 wt%, about 1 to about 25 wt%, about 1 to about 20 wt%, about 1 to about 18 wt%, about 1 to about 16 wt%, about 1 to about 14 % by weight, about 1 to about 12% by weight, about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight, about 1 to about 7% by weight, about 1 to about 6% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight; about 2 to about 30% by weight, about 2 to about 25% by weight, about 2 to about 20% by weight, about 2 to about 18% by weight, about 2 to about 16% by weight, about 2 to about 14 % by weight, about 2 to about 12% by weight, about 2 to about 10% by weight, about 2 to about 8% by weight, about 2 to about 7% by weight, about 2 to about 6% by weight, about 2 to about 5% by weight; about 3 to about 30 wt%, about 3 to about 25 wt%, about 3 to about 20 wt%, about 3 to about 18 wt%, about 3 to about 16 wt%, about 3 to about 14 % by weight, about 3 to about 12% by weight, about 3 to about 10% by weight, about 3 to about 8% by weight, about 3 to about 7% by weight, about 3 to about 6% by weight, about 3 to about 5% by weight; about 4 to about 30 wt%, about 4 to about 25 wt%, about 4 to about 20 wt%, about 4 to about 18 wt%, about 4 to about 16 wt%, about 4 to about 14 % by weight, about 4 to about 12% by weight, about 4 to about 10% by weight, about 4 to about 8% by weight, about 4 to about 7% by weight, about 4 to about 6% by weight, about 4 to about 5% by weight; about 5 to about 30 wt%, about 5 to about 25 wt%, about 5 to about 20 wt%, about 5 to about 18 wt%, about 5 to about 16 wt%, about 5 to about 14 wt%, about 5 to about 12 wt%, about 5 to about 10 wt%, about 5 to about 8 wt%, about 5 to about 7 wt%, about 5 to about 6 wt%; about 7 to about 30 wt%, about 7 to about 25 wt%, about 7 to about 20 wt%, about 7 to about 18 wt%, about 7 to about 16 wt%, about 7 to about 14 wt%, about 7 to about 12 wt%, about 7 to about 10 wt%; about 10 to about 30 wt%, about 10 to about 25 wt%, about 10 to about 20 wt%, about 10 to about 18 wt%, about 10 to about 16 wt%, about 10 to about 14 wt%, about 10 to about 12 wt%; about 12.5 to about 30% by weight, about 12.5 to about 25% by weight, about 12.5 to about 20% by weight, about 12.5 to about 18% by weight, about 12.5 to about 16% by weight; about 15 to about 30% by weight, about 15 to about 25% by weight, about 15 to about 20% by weight, about 15 to about 18% by weight, or about 15 to about 16% by weight, including all ranges and intermediate sub-ranges, based on the total weight of the skin treatment composition.

The polyols of the skin treatment composition can comprise or be chosen from polyols having from 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols that can be used in the skin treatment composition include and/or can be selected from alkanediols such as glycerine, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol and 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol; glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ether diethylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, ethylene mono-t-butyl ether glycol, diethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, 1-methyl-1-methoxybutanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, propylene mono-n-propyl ether glycol, propylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, dipropylene glycol monoethyl ether, dipropylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether and dipropylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether; sorbitol; sorbitan; triacetin; and a mixture of these.

The polyol(s) can be glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or ethers thereof such as, for example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, for example, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether. In one instance, the one or more polyols include or are selected from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin and a mixture thereof -this. In another instance, the skin treatment composition includes or is selected from caprylyl glycol, glycerin and a mixture thereof.

Silicone(s), fatty compound(s), or mixtures of these

The skin treatment compositions can include one or more silicones, one or more fatty compounds, or mixtures thereof in varying amounts, but typically from about 0.1 to about 90% by weight, based on the total weight of skin treatment compositions. In some instances, the amount of silicone(s), fatty compound(s), or mixtures thereof present in the skin treatment compositions is from about 0.1 to about 90% by weight, about 0 1 to about 80% by weight, about 0.1 to about 70% by weight, about 0.1 to about 60% by weight, about 0.1 to about 50% by weight, about 0.1 to about 40% by weight, about 0.1 to about 30% by weight, about 0.1 to about 25% by weight, about 0.1 to 20% by weight, about 0.1 to about 18% by weight, about 0.1 to about 16% by weight, about 0.1 to about 14% by weight, about 0.1 to about 12% by weight, about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, about 0.1 to about 8% by weight , about 0.1 to about 7% by weight, about 0.1 to about 6% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight; about 0.5 to about 90% by weight, about 0.5 to about 80% by weight, about 0.5 to about 70% by weight, about 0.5 to about 60% by weight, about 0.5 to about 50% by weight, about 0.5 to about 40% by weight, about 0.5 to about 30% by weight, about 0.5 to about 25% by weight, about 0.5 to 20% by weight, about 0 .5 to about 18% by weight, about 0.5 to about 16% by weight, about 0.5 to about 14% by weight, about 0.5 to about 12% by weight, about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, about 0.5 to about 7% by weight, about 0.5 to about 6% by weight, about 0.5 to about 5% by weight; about 1 to about 90 wt%, about 1 to about 80 wt%, about 1 to about 70 wt%, about 1 to about 60 wt%, about 1 to about 50 wt%, about 1 to about 40 % by weight, about 1 to about 30% by weight, about 1 to about 25% by weight, about 1 to about 20% by weight, about 1 to about 18% by weight, about 1 to about 16% by weight, about 1 to about 14% by weight, about 1 to about 12% by weight, about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight, about 1 to about 7% by weight, about 1 to about 6% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight; about 2 to about 90 wt%, about 2 to about 80 wt%, about 2 to about 70 wt%, about 2 to about 60 wt%, about 2 to about 50 wt%, about 2 to about 40 % by weight, about 2 to about 30% by weight, about 2 to about 25% by weight, about 2 to about 20% by weight, about 2 to about 18% by weight, about 2 to about 16% by weight, about 2 to about 14% by weight, about 2 to about 12% by weight, about 2 to about 10% by weight, about 2 to about 8% by weight, about 2 to about 7% by weight, about 2 to about 6% by weight, about 2 to about 5% by weight; about 3 to about 90% by weight, about 3 to about 80% by weight, about 3 to about 70% by weight, about 3 to about 60% by weight, about 3 to about 50% by weight, about 3 to about 40 % by weight, about 3 to about 30% by weight, about 3 to about 25% by weight, about 3 to about 20% by weight, about 3 to about 18% by weight, about 3 to about 16% by weight, about 3 to about 14% by weight, about 3 to about 12% by weight, about 3 to about 10% by weight, about 3 to about 8% by weight, about 3 to about 7% by weight, about 3 to about 6% by weight, about 3 to about 5% by weight; about 4 to about 90 wt%, about 4 to about 80 wt%, about 4 to about 70 wt%, about 4 to about 60 wt%, about 4 to about 50 wt%, about 4 to about 40 % by weight, about 4 to about 30% by weight, about 4 to about 25% by weight, about 4 to about 20% by weight, about 4 to about 18% by weight, about 4 to about 16% by weight, about 4 to about 14% by weight, about 4 to about 12% by weight, about 4 to about 10% by weight, about 4 to about 8% by weight, about 4 to about 7% by weight, about 4 to about 6% by weight, about 4 to about 5% by weight; about 5 to about 90% by weight, about 5 to about 80% by weight, about 5 to about 70% by weight, about 5 to about 60% by weight, about 5 to about 50% by weight, about 5 to about 40 % by weight, about 5 to about 30% by weight, about 5 to about 25% by weight, about 5 to about 20% by weight, about 5 to about 18% by weight, about 5 to about 16% by weight, about 5 to about 14% by weight, about 5 to about 12% by weight, about 5 to about 10% by weight, about 5 to about 8% by weight, about 5 to about 7% by weight, about 5 to about 6% in weight ; about 7.5 to about 90% by weight, about 7.5 to about 80% by weight, about 7.5 to about 70% by weight, about 7.5 to about 60% by weight, about 7.5 to about 50% by weight, about 7.5 to about 40% by weight, about 7.5 to about 30% by weight, about 7.5 to about 25% by weight, about 7.5 to about 20% by weight, about 7.5 to about 18% by weight, about 7.5 to about 16% by weight, about 7.5 to about 14% by weight, about 7.5 to about 12% by weight, about 7.5 to about 10 % in weight ; about 10 to about 90 wt%, about 10 to about 80 wt%, about 10 to about 70 wt%, about 10 to about 60 wt%, about 10 to about 50 wt%, about 10 to about 40 % by weight, about 10 to about 30 % by weight, about 10 to about 25 % by weight, about 10 to about 20 % by weight, about 10 to about 18 % by weight, about 10 to about 16 % by weight, about 10 to about 14% by weight, about 10 to about 12% by weight; about 12.5 to about 90% by weight, about 12.5 to about 80% by weight, about 12.5 to about 70% by weight, about 12.5 to about 60% by weight, about 12.5 to about 50% by weight, about 12.5 to about 40% by weight, about 12.5 to about 30% by weight, about 12.5 to about 25% by weight, about 12.5 to about 20% by weight, about 12.5 to about 18% by weight, about 12.5 to about 16% by weight; about 15 to about 90 wt%, about 15 to about 80 wt%, about 15 to about 70 wt%, about 15 to about 60 wt%, about 15 to about 50 wt%, about 15 to about 40 % by weight, about 15 to about 30% by weight, about 15 to about 25% by weight, about 15 to about 20% by weight, about 15 to about 18% by weight, or about 15 to about 16% by weight, including all ranges and subranges in between, based on the total weight of the skin treatment composition.

Silicon(s)

Skin treatment compositions can include one or more silicones. The silicones can optionally be functionalized with an amino group or functionalized with a methacrylic group. The term “amino functional silicone” or “amino silicones” refers to a silicone containing at least one primary amino, secondary amino, tertiary amino and/or quaternary ammonium group. The structure of an amino-functional silicone can be linear or branched, cyclic or non-cyclic. The amino functional group can be found at any position in the silicone molecule, preferably at the end of the backbone (e.g. in the case of amodimethicones) and/or in the side chain.

Non-limiting examples of silicones include amine functional silicones (eg, amodimethicone), dimethicone, bis-aminopropyl-dimethicone, trimethyl-silylamodimethicone, dimethicone copolyols, and the like. The skin treatment composition may include, in certain cases, one or more silicones chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes (dimethicones), polydiethylsiloxanes, polydimethylsiloxanes having terminal hydroxyl groups (dimethiconols), polymethylphenylsiloxanes, phenylmethylsiloxanes, polydimethylsiloxane with an amino function (amodimethicone), bis-aminopropyl dimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone, dimethicone copolyols, dimethicone copolyol esters, dimethicone copolyol quaternary nitrogen compounds, dimethicone copolyol phosphate esters, and mixtures thereof. For example, the one or more silicones can be or include one or more dimethicone copolyols. The copolyols can be selected from PEG-8 dimethicone adipate, PEG-8 dimethicone benzoate, PEG-7 dimethicone phosphate, PEG-10 dimethicone phosphate, PEG/PPG-20/23 dimethicone benzoate, PEG/ PPG-7/4, Dimethicone Phosphate PEG/PPG-12/4, PEG-3 Dimethicone, PEG-7 Dimethicone, PEG-8 Dimethicone, PEG-9 Dimethicone, PEG-10 Dimethicone, PEG-12 Dimethicone, PEG-14 dimethicone, PEG-17 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-3/10 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-4/12 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-6/11 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-8/14 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-14/4 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-15/15 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-16/2 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-17/18 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-19/19 dimethicone, PEG/PPG -20/6 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/15 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/20 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/23 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/29 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-22/23 dimethicone , PEG/PPG-22/24 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-23/6 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-25/25 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-27/27 dimethicone, and a mixture thereof.

The silicone(s) may optionally include or be selected from a siloxane with a methacrylic group on one of its molecular ends, a polydimethylsiloxane containing a styryl group on one of its molecular ends, or a similar silicone compound containing unsaturated groups; butadiene; vinyl chloride; vinylidene chloride; methacrylonitrile; dibutyl fumarate; anhydrous maleic acid; anhydrous succinic acid; glycidyl methacrylic ether; organic salt of an amine, an ammonium salt and an alkali metal salt of methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid or fumaric acid; a radically polymerizable unsaturated monomer containing a sulfonic acid group such as a styrenesulfonic acid group; a quaternary ammonium salt derived from methacrylic acid, such as 2-hydroxy-3-methacryloxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride; and a methacrylic acid ester of an alcohol containing a tertiary amine group, such as a methacrylic acid ester of diethylamine.

One or more of the silicones which may be included in the skin treatment composition is an emulsifier. For example, the silicone can be an organosiloxane emulsifier, an oxyalkylenated organosiloxane emulsifier, a PEGylated organic siloxane emulsifier, or a cross-linked organosiloxane emulsifier. Although not specifically identified, some of the silicones listed below can be used as emulsifiers.

In some cases, the silicones include or are optionally selected from siloxanes having an organic functional group, such as polyalkylsiloxanes, where at least one alkyl radical is different from methyl, for example organopolysiloxanes having the INCI name Stearyl Dimethicone, Cetyl Dimethicone or C26-28 Alkyl Dimethicone, or, for example, polyarylsiloxanes and polyarylalkylsiloxanes, for example organopolysiloxanes having the INCI name of Phenyl Trimethicone, Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone or Dimethylphenyl Dimethicone, or, for example, organopolysiloxanes having an organofunctional radical such as an aminopropyl, aminopropyl-aminoethyl, aminopropyl-aminoisobutyl radical, for example organopolysiloxanes having the INCI name Amodimethicone, or, for example, organopolysiloxanes having a polyethylene glycol or polyalkylene glycol radical, for example organopolysiloxanes having the INCI name PEG-12 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-25,25-Dimethicone or Cetyl PEG/PPG-15/15 Butyl Ether Dimethicone.

In certain cases, an amino-functionalized silicone is chosen from the compounds having the following formula:

wherein each R ¹ is independently selected from C _1-30 alkyl, C _1-30 alkoxy, C _5-30 aryl, C _6-30 aralkyl, C aralkyloxy _6-30 , a C _1-30 alkaryl group, a C _1-30 alkoxyaryl group and a hydroxy group (preferably, each R ¹ is independently selected from a C _1-30 alkyl group, a C 1-30 alkoxy group _1-30 and a hydroxy group);

each R ² is independently a divalent alkylene radical having one to ten carbon atoms (preferably, R ² is a divalent alkylene radical having three to six carbon atoms);

each R ³ is independently selected from a C _1-30 alkyl group, a C _5-30 aryl group, a C _6-30 aralkyl group and a C _1-30 alkaryl group (preferably each R ³ is independently selected from a C _1-30 alkyl group);

Q is a monovalent radical chosen from NR ⁴ ₂ and NR ⁴ (CH ₂ ) _× NR ⁴ ₂ ;

each R ⁴ is independently selected from hydrogen and C _1-4 alkyl;

x is from 2 to 6;

z is 0 or 1;

n is 25 to 3000 (preferably 25 to 2000; more preferably 25 to 1000; most preferably 25 to 500); and

m is 0 to 3000 (preferably 0 to 2000, more preferably 0 to 1000, most preferably 0 to 100);

provided that at least 50 mole % of the total number of R ¹ and R ³ groups are methyl groups and provided that when m is 0, z is 1.

Preferred R ¹ groups include methyl, methoxy, ethyl, ethoxy, propyl, propoxy, isopropyl, isopropoxy, butyl, butoxy, isobutyl, isobutoxy, phenyl, xenyl, benzyl, phenylethyl, tolyl and hydroxy groups. Preferred R ² divalent alkylene radicals include trimethylene, tetramethylene, pentamethylene, CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )CH ₂ and CH ₂ CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )CH ₂ . Preferred R ³ groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, phenyl, xenyl, benzyl, phenylethyl and tolyl groups. Preferred R ⁴ groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl and isobutyl groups. When z is 0, the amino-functional silicone has only pendant amine-functional substituents in the polymer chain. When z is 1, the amino-functional silicone can have only terminal amine-functional substituents (eg, m = 0) or can have both terminal and pendent amine-functional substituents in the polymer chain (eg, m >0). Preferably, n + m is 50 to 1000. More preferably, n + m is 50 to 750. Even more preferably, n + m is 50 to 500. Most preferably, n + m is 50 to 250.

In some cases, the amino functional silicones are alkoxylated and/or hydroxylated amino silicones. The suitable alkoxylated and/or hydroxylated amino silicones can be chosen from the compounds of the following formula:

in which R ₃ is a hydroxyl group or OR ₅ , R ₅ is a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl group, R ₄ is a group whose structure conforms to the following formula:

,

R ₆ is C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl, n is 1 to 4, x is the same as "n" described above, and y is the same as "m" described above.

The silicone may be a polysiloxane corresponding to the following formula:

wherein x' and y' are integers such that the weight average molecular weight (Mw) is between about 5,000 and 500,000;

b) amino silicones corresponding to the following formula:

R' _a G _3-a -Si(OSiG ₂ ) _n -(OSiG _b R' _2-b ) _m -O-SiG _3-a -R' _a

in which :

G, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl, OH or C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl group, for example methyl, or C ₁ -C ₈ alkoxy, for example methoxy,

a, which are identical or different, denote the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0;

b represents the number 0 or 1, and in particular 1;

m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly representing a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m a number of 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;

R', identical or different, denote a monovalent radical of formula -C _q H _2q L in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups:

-NR"-QN(R") ₂

-N(R") ₂

-N+(R") ₃ A-

-N+H(R") ₂ A-

-N+H ₂ (R") A-

-N(R")-Q-N+R"H ₂ A-

-NR"-Q-N+ (R") ₂ H A-

-NR"-Q-N+ (R") ₃ A-,

in which R", which are identical or different, represent hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon radical, for example a C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl radical; Q represents a linear or branched C _r H _2r group, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4, and A- represents a cosmetically acceptable ion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

Another group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition is represented by the silicones having the following formula:

in which

m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can range from 1 and 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249, and more particularly from 125 to 175, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 1000 and in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5;

R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ , identical or different, represent a hydroxy or C ₁ -C ₄ alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals R ¹ to R ³ designating an alkoxy radical.

The alkoxy radical is preferably a methoxy radical. The hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1. The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2,000 to 1,000,000, more particularly from 3,500 to 200,000.

Another group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition is represented by the following formula:

in which

p and q are numbers such that the sum (p+q) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p possibly denoting a number from 0 to 999, in particular from 49 to 349, and more particularly from 159 to 239 and q a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5;

R ₁ , R ₂ , which are identical or different, represent a hydroxy or C ₁ -C ₄ alkoxy radical, where at least one of the R ¹ or R ² radicals denotes an alkoxy radical.

The alkoxy radical is preferably a methoxy radical. The hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.

Another group of amino silicones is represented by the following formula:

in which

m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;

A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear. The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2,000 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly from 3,500 to 200,000.

Another group of amino silicones is represented by the following formula:

in which

m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;

A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched. The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly from 1,000 to 200,000.

Another group of amino silicones is represented by the following formula:

in which

R ₅ represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl or C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl radical, for example methyl;

R ₆ represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical or a divalent C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyleneoxy radical, for example C ₁ -C ₈ , bonded to Si by an SiC bond;

Q ^- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt (eg acetate);

r represents an average statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8;

s represents an average statistical value of 20 to 200 and in particular of 20 to 50. Such amine silicones are described more particularly in American patent No. 4,185,087.

A group of quaternary ammonium silicones is represented by the following formula:

in which :

R ⁷ , which are identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl radical or a cycle containing 5 or 6 atoms carbon, for example methyl;

R ₆ represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical or a divalent C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyleneoxy radical, for example C ₁ -C ₈ , bonded to Si by an SiC bond;

R ₈ , which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl radical or a -R ₆ -NHCOR ₇ radical;

X ⁻ is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt (for example acetate);

r represents an average statistical value of 2 to 200 and in particular of 5 to 100. These silicones are described, for example, in European patent application No. 0530974.

A group of quaternary ammonium silicones is represented by the following formula:

in which :

R₁, R₂, R₃ and R₄, identical or different, denote a C alkyl radical₁-VS₄or a phenyl group;

R ₅ denotes a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group;

n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5;

m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5;

and in which x is chosen such that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq/g;

polyoxyalkylenated multiblock amino silicones, of (AB)n type, A being a polysiloxane block and B a polyoxyalkylenated block comprising at least one amine group.

Said silicones preferably consist of repeating units having the following general formulas:

[-(SiMe ₂ O)xSiMe ₂ - R -N(R")- R'-O(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O) _b -R'-N(H)-R-]

or alternatively

[-(SiMe ₂ O)xSiMe ₂ - R -N(R")- R' - O(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O) _b -].

in which :

a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200, more particularly ranging from 10 to 100;

b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably between 4 and 100, more particularly between 5 and 30;

x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,000, more particularly from 10 to 5,000;

R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;

R, which are identical or different, represent a divalent, linear or branched, C ₂ -C ₁₂ hydrocarbon radical, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, a -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH(OH)CH ₂ - radical; preferably, R denotes a --CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH(OH)CH ₂ -- radical;

R′, which are identical or different, represent a divalent, linear or branched, C ₂ -C ₁₂ hydrocarbon radical, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R′ denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, a —CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH(OH)CH ₂ — radical; preferably R' denotes -CH(CH ₃ )-CH ₂ -. The siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 and 95% by mole of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 to 85% by mole.

The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq/g of copolymer in 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2. The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone oil is preferably between 5,000 and 1,000,000, more particularly between 10,000 and 200,000.

The silicone can be chosen from those having at least one quaternary ammonium group. Suitable non-limiting examples are quaternium 80, quaternium-1 silicone, quaternium-2 silicone, quaternium-2 silicone panthenol succinate, quaternium-3 silicone, quaternium-4 silicone, quaternium-5 silicone, quaternium-6 silicone, quaternium silicone -7, quaternium-8 silicone, quaternium-9 silicone, quaternium-10 silicone, quaternium-11 silicone, quaternium-12 silicone, quaternium-15 silicone, quaternium-16 silicone, quaternium-16 silicone/glycidoxy dimethicone cross-linked polymer, silicone quaternium-17, quaternium-18 silicone, quaternium-20 silicone and quaternium-21 silicone. We prefer quaternium 80, quaternium-16 silicone, quaternium-18 silicone, quaternium-1 silicone, quaternium-2 silicone, quaternium-3 silicone, quaternium-4 silicone, quaternium-5 silicone, quaternium-6 silicone, quaternium-7 silicone , quaternium-8 silicone, quaternium-9 silicone, quaternium-10 silicone, quaternium-11 silicone, quaternium-12 silicone, quaternium-15 silicone, quaternium-17 silicone, quaternium-20 silicone and quaternium-21 silicone. More preferred are quaternium 80, quaternium-16 silicone, quaternium-18 silicone, quaternium-3 silicone, quaternium-4 silicone, quaternium-5 silicone, quaternium-6 silicone, quaternium-7 silicone, quaternium-8 silicone, quaternium-silicone. 9, quaternium-10 silicone, quaternium-11 silicone, quaternium-12 silicone, quaternium-15 silicone and quaternium-17 silicone. Preferred are quaternium 80, quaternium-16 silicone, quaternium-18 silicone, quaternium-15 silicone and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the one or more of the silicone oils of the present disclosure is a non-amino silicone oil such as a dimethicone.

Non-limiting examples of amino-functional silicones include bis-hydroxy/methoxy amodimethicones, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, amodimethicone, bis(C _13-15 alkoxy)PG amodimethicones, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicones, aminopropyl dimethicones, bis-amino PEG/PPG- 41/3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicones, caprylyl methicones, and a mixture thereof. In some cases, a particularly useful amino-functionalized silicone is bis-hydroxy/methoxy amodimethicone, where X is isobutyl and one of the Rs is OH and the other is OCH ₃ in the structure above, also known as the name "bis-hydroxy/methoxy amodimethicone" and "3-[(2-aminoethyl)amino]-2-methylpropyl Me, di-Me, [(hydroxydimethylsilyl)oxy]- and [(methoxydimethylsilyl)oxy]-terminated. “Bis-hydroxy/methoxy amodimethicone is commercially available under the trademark DOWSIL AP-8087 FLUID from The Dow Chemical Company. A non-limiting example of amodimethicone products containing amino silicones having the structure (D) is sold by Wacker as BELSIL ADM 652, BELSIL ADM 4000 E, or BELSIL ADM LOG 1. A product containing amino silicones having the structure ( E) is sold by Wacker under the name FLUID WR 1300. Additionally or alternatively, the weight average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2,000 to 200,000, even more particularly between 5,000 and 100,000 and more particularly between 10,000 and 50,000.

The silicone(s) in the skin treatment compositions of the present disclosure is (are) included in the form of a silicone emulsion comprising at least one silicone and at least one surfactant, for example, surfactants nonionic, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, anionic surfactants. Silicone emulsions can be nanoemulsions, microemulsions or macroemulsions. Suitable examples of nonionic surfactants are alkoxylated fatty alcohols or polyethylene glycol ethers of mixtures of C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols with an average number of moles of ethylene oxide, such as pareth-7 in C _11-15 , laureth-9, laureth-12, deceth-7, deceth-10, trideceth-6, trideceth-10, trideceth-12, or a mixture thereof. Suitable examples of amphoteric surfactants are cocamidopropyl betaine, coco betaine or a mixture thereof. Suitable examples of cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds such as behentrimonium chloride, cetrimoinium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate or a mixture thereof. Suitable examples of anionic surfactants are sulphate compounds which additionally comprise up to 5% by weight of a surfactant, for example, sodium (or ammonium) lauryl sulphate, sodium laureth sulphate (or ammonium), or mixtures thereof.

Fatty compound(s)

Examples of fatty compound(s) which may be incorporated into the skin treatment composition include fatty alcohol, fatty ester, fatty ether, fatty acid, wax, oil, derivative thereof, and a mixture thereof. Other examples of fatty compounds worth mentioning include oils, mineral oils, alkanes (paraffins), fatty alcohol derivatives, fatty acid derivatives, fatty alcohol esters, hydroxy-substituted fatty acids, waxes , compounds of triglycerides, lanolin and a mixture thereof. One or more fatty compounds which may be included in the skin treatment composition is an emulsifier. For example, the fatty compound can be a fatty alcohol which is able to emulsify another ingredient or is used for this. Although not specifically identified, some of the fatty compounds listed below can be used as emulsifiers. Other examples of fatty compounds are shown below.

1. Fatty ester(s)

Skin treatment compositions can include one or more fatty compounds that are fatty esters. For example, the fatty compound(s) can be chosen from dialkyl carbonates of formula: R ₁ O(C=O)R ₂ , in which R ₁ and R ₂ are independently linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chains, having 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or having 2 to 28 carbon atoms, or having 4 to 25 carbon atoms, or having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably one or more fatty carbonates chosen from C _14-15 dialkyl carbonates, dicaprylyl carbonate, diethyl carbonate, dihexyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dimethoxyphenyl and phenyloxoethyl ethyl carbonate, dimethyl carbonate, dipropyl carbonate, dipropylheptyl carbonate, dioctyl, and a mixture thereof.

In addition or alternatively, the fatty ester chosen from cetyl ester, purcellin oil (cetearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols , hydroxy esters, dicaprylyl carbonate, pentaerythritol esters, and a mixture thereof. Other fatty esters worth mentioning include polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 dioleate, polyglyceryl-6 stearate, polyglyceryl-6 distearate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 distearate, polyglyceryl-8 dipalmitate, polyglyceryl-10 dipalmitate, polyglyceryl-10 behenate and polyglyceryl-12 trilaurate.

1. Fatty alcohol(s)

Suitable fatty alcohols, if present, include those having a fatty group with a carbon chain of more than 8 carbon atoms, 8 to 50 carbon atoms, 8 to 40 carbon atoms, 8 to 30 carbon atoms, 8 to 22 carbon atoms, 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or 12 to 18 carbon atoms, including all ranges and subranges in between. In some cases, the fatty group of fatty alcohols has a carbon chain of 10 to 20 carbon atoms or 10 to 18 carbon atoms. The fatty alcohols can be selected from polyethylene glycol ethers, such as those having a fatty alcohol group with a carbon chain of 12 to 16 or 12 to 14 carbon atoms.

The fatty alcohol portion is preferably hydrogenated (eg, stearyl, lauryl, cetyl, cetearyl); however, the fatty alcohol may contain one or more double bonds (eg, oleyl). Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols include decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol (cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool , oleyl alcohol, cis-4-t-butylcyclohexanol, isotridecyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and a mixture thereof. In some instances, the fatty alcohols include at least one or may be selected from myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof.

Fatty alcohol can be saturated or unsaturated. Examples of saturated liquid fatty alcohols may be branched and optionally contain in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. In some cases, however, fatty alcohols are acyclic. Non-limiting examples of saturated liquid fatty alcohols include octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and 2-hexyldecanol.

Examples of unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols may include in their structure at least one double or triple bond. For example, fatty alcohols can include multiple double bonds (such as 2 or 3 double bonds), which can be conjugated or unconjugated. Unsaturated fatty alcohols can be linear or branched and can be acyclic or include in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. The liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols can include or be selected from oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenic alcohol and undecylenic alcohol.

The fatty alcohols can be fatty alcohol alkoxylates, for example, having about 1 to about 100 moles of an alkylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol alkoxylate. For example, alkoxylated fatty alcohols can be alkoxylated with about 1 to about 80 moles, about 2 to about 50, about 5 to about 45 moles, about 10 to about 40 moles, or 15 to about 35 moles, including all ranges and intermediate subranges, of one alkylene oxide per mole of alkoxylated fatty alcohol.

Examples of alkoxylated fatty alcohols include steareth (eg, steareth-2, steareth-20 and steareth-21), laureth (eg, laureth-4 and laureth-12), ceteth (eg, ceteth-10 and ceteth-20) and ceteareth (for example, ceteareth-2, ceteareth-10 and ceteareth-20). In at least one instance, the one or more alkoxylated fatty alcohols include steareth-20. In some cases, the one or more alkoxylated fatty alcohols may be exclusively steareth-20.

Additional fatty alcohol derivatives which may optionally be suitable include methyl stearyl ether; 2-ethylhexyl dodecyl ether; stearyl acetate; cetyl propionate; the series of ceteth compounds, such as ceteth-1 to ceteth-45, which are ethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, in which the numerical designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; the series of steareth compounds such as steareth-1 through 10, which are ethylene glycol ethers of steareth alcohol, in which the numerical designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; ceteareth-1 to ceteareth-10, which are the ethylene glycol ethers of ceteareth alcohol, i.e. a mixture of fatty alcohols containing mainly cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, in which the numerical designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl ethers of the ceteth, steareth and ceteareth compounds described above; polyoxyethylene ethers of branched alcohols such as octyldodecyl alcohol, dodecyl pentadecyl alcohol, hexyldecyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol; polyoxyethylene ethers of behenyl alcohol; PPG ethers such as PPG-9 stearyl ether, PPG-11 stearyl ether, PPG-8-ceteth and PPG-10 cetyl ether; and a mixture of these.

1. Fatty ether(s)

The fatty compounds can be chosen from fatty ethers. For example, the skin treatment composition may include olyoxyethylene cetyl/stearyl ether, polyoxyethylene cholesteric ether, polyoxyethylene laurate or dilaurate, polyoxyethylene stearate or distearate, polyoxyethylene lauryl or stearyl ether, dicaprylyl ether, diketyl ether, distearyl ether, or a mixture thereof. Non-limiting examples of suitable polyoxyethylene fatty ethers include, but are not limited to, polyoxyethylene cetyl/stearyl ether, polyoxyethylene cholesterol ether, polyoxyethylene laurate or dilaurate, polyoxyethylene stearate or distearate, polyoxyethylene lauryl or stearyl ether. , and mixtures thereof, wherein the polyoxyethylene head group ranges from about 2 to about 100 groups. In some embodiments, polyoxyethylene fatty ethers include polyoxyethylene stearyl ether, polyoxyethylene myristyl ether, polyoxyethylene lauryl ether having from about 3 to about 10 oxyethylene units, and mixtures thereof.

1. Fatty acids

In some cases, the fatty compounds can be selected from fatty acids, fatty acid derivatives, fatty acid esters, hydroxyl-substituted fatty acids and alkoxylated fatty acids. The fatty acids can be straight or branched chain acids and/or can be saturated or unsaturated. Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include diacids, triacids and other multiple acids as well as the salts of these fatty acids. For example, the fatty acid may optionally include or be selected from lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arichidonic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic acid, and a mixture thereof. In some cases, the fatty acids are selected from the group consisting of palmitic acid, stearic acid and a mixture thereof.

Non-limiting examples of polyglycerol esters of fatty acids include those of the following formula:

wherein the average value of n is about 3 and R ¹ , R ² and R ³ may each independently be a fatty acid moiety or a hydrogen atom, provided that at least one of R ¹ , R ² and R ³ is a fatty acid moiety. For example, R ¹ , R ² and R ³ can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and have a length of C ₁ -C ₄₀ , C ₁ -C ₃₀ , C ₁ -C ₂₅ , or C ₁ -C ₂₀ , C ₁ -C ₁₆ , or C ₁ -C ₁₀ .

Fatty acid derivatives are defined here to include fatty acid esters of fatty alcohols as defined above, fatty acid esters of fatty alcohol derivatives as defined above when these alcohol derivatives fatty acids have an esterifiable hydroxyl group, fatty acid esters of alcohols other than the fatty alcohols and fatty alcohol derivatives described above, hydroxy-substituted fatty acids, and a mixture thereof. Non-limiting examples of fatty acid derivatives include ricinoleic acid, glycerol monostearate, 12-hydroxystearic acid, ethyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl palmitate, polyoxyethylene cetyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene ether stearate, polyoxyethylene stearyl, polyoxyethylene lauryl ether stearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, polyoxyethylene monostearate, polyoxyethylene distearate, propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol distearate, trimethylolpropane distearate, sorbitan stearate, polyglyceryl stearate, sebacate dimethyl, PEG-15 cocoate, PPG-15 stearate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl tristearate, PEG-8 laurate, PPG-2 isostearate, PPG-9 laurate, and a mixture of those -this. Preferred products are glycerol monostearate, 12-hydroxystearic acid and a mixture thereof.

1. Raincoats)

The fatty compounds may, in certain cases, include or be chosen from one or more waxes. Non-limiting examples of waxes in this category include, for example, synthetic wax, ceresin, paraffin, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, illipe butter, beeswax, carnauba wax, microcrystalline wax, lanolin, lanolin derivatives, wax candelilla wax, cocoa butter, shellac wax, spermaceti, bran wax, kapok wax, sugar cane wax, lignite wax, whale wax, berry wax, acacia flower wax, vegetable waxes (such as sunflower (Helianthus annuus), carnauba, candelilla, ouricury or japan seed waxes or cork fiber or sugar cane waxes), or a mixture thereof.

1. Oils)

The skin treatment compositions include one or more oils. The oil component of NLCs typically has a melting temperature below 45°C, a molecular weight of at least 190, and a water solubility no greater than 1 part in 99 parts water.

Non-limiting examples include, but are not limited to, natural oils, such as coconut oil; hydrocarbons, such as mineral oil and hydrogenated polyisobutene; esters, such as C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate; diesters, such as propylene dipelarganate; and triesters, such as glyceryl trioctanoate. Other examples of oils that may optionally be included in skin treatment compositions include isotridecyl isononanoate, PEG-4 diheptanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, tridecyl neopentanoate, cetyl octanoate, cetyl palmitate , cetyl ricinoleate, cetyl stearate, cetyl myristate, coco dicaprylate/caprate, decyl isostearate, isodecyl oleate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isohexyl neopentanoate, octyl palmitate, dioctyl malate, tridecyl octanoate , myristyl myristate, octododecanol, or combinations of octyldodecanol, acetylated lanolin alcohol, cetyl acetate, isododecanol, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, castor oil, lanolin and lanolin derivatives, triisocetyl citrate, sorbitan sesquioleate, triglycerides in C ₁₀ -C ₁₈ , caprylic/capric triglycerides, coconut oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, glyceryl triacetyl hydroxystearate, glyceryl triacetyl ricinoleate, trioctanoate glyceryl, hydrogenated castor oil, linseed oil, mink oil, olive oil, palm oil, illipe butter, rapeseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, tallow, tricaprin, trihydrostearin, triisostearin, trilaurine, trilinolein, trimyristin, triolein, tripalmitin, tristearin, walnut oil, wheat germ oil, cholesterol, or combinations thereof.

Additionally or alternatively, the oil can be selected from vegetable and/or herbal oils. Non-limiting examples of vegetable or herbal oils include acai oil, almond oil, aloe vera oil, andiroba oil, annatto oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, borage oil, brazil nut oil, buriti oil, camelina oil, coffee oil, copaiba oil, emu oil, passion fruit oil, almond oil, castor seed oil, Coconut, Grapeseed Oil, Jojoba Oil, Macadamia Oil, Rosehip Oil, Ajowan Oil, Angelica Root Oil, Anise Oil, Argan Oil, Asafetida Oil, Oil balsam oil, basil oil, laurel oil, bergamot oil, black pepper essential oil, buchu oil, birch oil, camphor oil, cannabis oil, caraway oil, cardamom seed oil, seed oil carrot oil, chamomile oil, calamus root oil, cinnamon oil, lemongrass oil, clary sage oil, clove leaf oil, ca fe, coriander oil, balsamic tansy oil, cranberry seed oil, cubeb oil, cumin oil, cypress oil, cypriol, curry leaf oil, davana oil, dill oil, elecampane oil , eucalyptus oil, fennel seed oil, fenugreek oil, fir oil, frankincense oil, galangal oil, geranium oil, ginger oil, goldenrod oil, grapefruit oil, grapeseed oil, henna oil, helichrysum oil, horseradish oil, hyssop oil, idaho tansy oil, jasmine oil, juniper berry oil, lavender oil, lemon oil, lemongrass, marjoram oil, melaleuca oil, lemon balm oil, winter savory oil, mugwort oil, mustard oil, myrrh oil, myrtle oil, neem oil, neroli oil, nutmeg oil , orange oil, oregano oil, iris oil, palo santo oil, parsley oil, patchouli oil, perilla oil, hui pennyroyal, peppermint oil, petitgrain oil, pine oil, plum oil, ravensara oil, red cedar oil, roman chamomile oil, rose oil, rosehip oil, rosemary oil, wood oil rose oil, sandalwood oil, sassafras oil, savory oil, schisandra oil, nard oil, spruce oil, star anise oil, tangerine oil, tarragon oil, tea tree oil, thyme oil, tsuga oil, turmeric oil, valerian oil, vetiver oil, western red cedar oil, wintergreen oil, yarrow oil, ylang-ylang oil and zedoary oil.

Non-limiting examples of liquid triglycerides and oils of plant origin include Alexandria laurel oil, avocado oil, apricot kernel oil, barley oil, borage seed oil, calendula oil, cinnamon nut oil, canola oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride castor oil, coconut oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, cottonseed oil, evening primrose oil, flaxseed oil, peanut oil, hazelnut oil, glyceryl triacetate, glycerol triheptanoate, glyceryl trioctanoate, glyceryl triundecanoate, hemp oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, corn germ oil, pumpkin oil, millet oil, dicaprylate/dicaprate neopentyl glycol, olive oil, palm oil, passion flower oil, pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, poppy seed oil, propylene glycol ricinoleate, rapeseed oil, rye oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soya, soya bean oil, aman oil sweet, sunflower oil, sysymbre oil, clove oil (syzigium aromaticum), tea tree oil, walnut oil, wheat germ glycerides and wheat germ oil.

Active agent(s) for the skin

The skin firming compositions may optionally include one or more skin-active agents, such as anti-aging agents, anti-wrinkle actives, antioxidants, humectants, moisturizing ingredients, depigmenting agents, and/or agents for the treatment of oily skin, etc. The skin active agents can be included in the skin firming composition in a range from greater than zero to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of skin active agents can be greater than zero to about 9% by weight, greater than zero to about 8% by weight, greater than zero to about 7% by weight, more zero to about 6% by weight, greater than zero to about 5% by weight, greater than zero to about 4% by weight, greater than zero to about 3% by weight, greater than zero to about 2% in weight ; from about 10 ppm to about 10 wt% (100,000 ppm), about 10 ppm to about 5 wt% (50,000 ppm), about 10 ppm to about 2.5 wt% (25,000 ppm), about 10 ppm to about 1 wt% (10,000 ppm), about 10 ppm to about 0.5 wt% (5,000 ppm), about 10 ppm to about 0.3 wt% (3,000 ppm), about 10 ppm to about 0.2 wt% (2000 ppm), about 10 ppm to about 0.1 wt% (1000 ppm), about 10 ppm to 500 ppm; about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 2.5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 1% by weight, about 0.1 about 0.5% by weight; about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight, about 1 to about 6% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, about 1 to about 4% by weight, about 1 to about 3 % in weight ; about 2 to about 10 wt%, about 2 to about 8 wt%, about 2 to about 6 wt%, about 2 to about 5 wt%, about 2 to about 4 wt%; about 3 to about 10 wt%, about 3 to about 8 wt%, about 3 to about 6 wt%, about 3 to about 5 wt%; about 4 to about 10% by weight, about 4 to about 8% by weight, or about 4 to about 6% by weight, including ranges and subranges in between, based on the total weight of the firming composition the skin.

A non-limiting discussion of skin active agents which may, in some cases, be included in the skin firming composition is provided below:

Humectants and/or moisturizing ingredients

Examples of humectants and/or moisturizing ingredients include glycerol and its derivatives, urea and its derivatives, including Hydrovance marketed by National Starch, lactic acid, hyaluronic acid, AHA, BHA, sodium pidolate, xylitol, serine , sodium lactate, ectoin and its derivatives, chitosan and its derivatives, collagen, plankton, an extract of Imperata cylindra sold under the name Moist 24 by Sederma, acrylic acid homopolymers such as Lipidure-HM from NOF Corporation, beta-glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry, a mixture of passionflower, apricot, corn and rice bran oils sold by Nestlé under the name NutraLipids, a derivative of C -glycoside, in particular C-13-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in the form of a 30% solution by weight of active ingredient in a water/propylene glycol mixture (60/40% by weight) such as the product manufactured by the company Chimex under the trade name "Mexoryl SBB", an oil of rosehip marketed by Nestlé, an extract of micro-algae Prophyridium cruentum enriched in zinc, marketed under the name of Vincience Algualane Zinc spheres of collagen and chondroitin sulphate of marine origin (Atelocollagen) sold by the company Engelhard Lyon under the name of Marine Filling Spheres, spheres of hyaluronic acid such as those marketed by Engelhard Lyon, and arginine.

Depigmenting agents other than ' acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine.

The depigmenting agents which may be incorporated into the skin firming composition include those chosen from alpha and beta arbutin, ferulic acid, lucinol and its derivatives, kojic acid, resorcinol and derivatives thereof, tranexamic acid and derivatives thereof, gentisic acid, homogentisic, gentisate or methyl homogentisate, dioic acid, calcium sulfonate of D panthetin, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, linoleic acid and its derivatives, certain compounds derived from plants such as chamomile, bearberry, the aloe family (vera, ferox, bardensis), mulberry, skullcap, a water kiwi (Actinidia chinensis) marketed by Gattefosse, a root extract of Paeonia suffruticosa, such as that marketed by Ichimaru Pharcos under the name of Liquid Botanpi Be, an extract of brown sugar (Saccharum officinarum) such as the molasses extract marketed by Taiyo Kagaku under the name of Liquid Molasses, without this li ste is exhaustive. Among the particular depigmenting agents, mention may be made of alpha and beta arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, calcium sulfonate of D panthetein, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, kiwi water (Actinidia chinensis) marketed by Gattefosse, a root extract of Paeonia suffruticosa, such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name of Botanpi Liquid B.

Anti-wrinkle active

The skin firming composition can include one or more anti-wrinkle active agents. The term “anti-wrinkle active” designates a natural or synthetic compound producing a biological effect, such as increasing the synthesis and/or the activity of certain enzymes, when it is brought into contact with an area of wrinkled skin, which has the effect of reducing the appearance of wrinkles and/or fine lines. Exemplary anti-wrinkle active agents can be chosen from: desquamating agents, anti-glycation agents, NO-synthase inhibitors, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and/or preventing their degradation, agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts and/or or keratinocytes, or stimulating agents reducing keratinocyte differentiation; muscle relaxant and/or dermo-decontracting agents, anti-free radical agents, and mixtures thereof. Examples of such compounds are: adenosine and its derivatives and retinoids other than retinol (as discussed above, such as retinol palmitate), ascorbic acid and its derivatives such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and glucoside ascorbyl; nicotinic acid and precursors thereof such as nicotinamide; ubiquinone; glutathione and its precursors such as L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid, C-glycoside compounds and their derivatives as described in particular in document EP-1345919, in particular C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2- hydroxy-propane as described in particular in document EP-1345919, plant extracts including sea fennel and olive leaf extracts, as well as plants and hydrolysates thereof such as rice protein hydrolysates or soy protein; extracts of algae and in particular of laminaria, extracts of bacteria, sapogenins such as diosgenin and extracts of Dioscorea plants, in particular of wild yam, comprising: a-hydroxy acids, β-hydroxy acids, such as salicylic acid and n-octanoyl-5-salicylic oligopeptides and pseudodipeptides and acylated derivatives thereof, including {2-[acetyl-(3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl)-amino]-3-methyl-} acid acetic acid and the lipopeptides marketed by the company under the trade names SEDERMA Matrixyl 500 and Matrixyl 3000; lycopene, manganese salts and magnesium salts, especially gluconates, and mixtures thereof. In at least one case, the skin-firming composition includes derivatives of adenosine, such as non-phosphate derivatives of adenosine, such as in particular 2′-deoxyadenosine, 2′,3′-adenosine isopropoylidene; toyocamycin, 1-methyladenosine, N-6-methyladenosine; N-oxide adenosine, 6-methylmercaptopurine riboside, and 6-chloropurine riboside. Other derivatives include adenosine receptor agonists such as phenylisopropyl adenosine ("PIA"), 1-methylisoguanosine, N6-cyclohexyladenosine (CHA), N6-cyclopentyladenosine (CPA), 2-chloro-N6-cyclopentyladenosine , 2-chloroadenosine, N6-phenyladenosine, 2-phenylaminoadenosine, MECA, N 6-phenethyladenosine, 2-p-(2-carboxy-ethyl) phenethyl-amino-5'-N-ethylcarboxamido adenosine (CGS-21680), N- ethylcarboxamido-adenosine (NECA), 5'(N-cyclopropyl)-carboxamidoadenosine, DPMA (PD 129, 944) and metrifudil.

Antioxidants

Vitamin C and its derivatives may be used, including ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbate, and the fat-soluble esters tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl-glucoside, glucosamine ascorbate, ascorbyl acetate , etc. In addition, plant extracts containing a high amount of vitamin C, such as camu berry (Myrciaria dubia), acerola, emblica officinalis, and bioflavonoids from rose hips and citrus fruits can be used, including water-soluble bioflavonoids. water like hesperidin methyl chalcone.

Sesame (Sesamum indicum) or sesame lignan can also be added. Sesame and its lignans (fibrous compounds associated with sesame) act as antioxidants. Sesame seed lignans greatly enhance the activity of vitamin E.

Other antioxidants include tocopherols (eg, d-α-tocopherol, d-β-tocopherol, d-γ-tocopherol, d-delta-tocopherol), tocotrienols (eg, d-α-tocotrienol, d-β -tocotrienol, d-γ.-tocotrienol, d-delta-tocotrienol,) and vitamin E (α-tocopherol acetate). These compounds can be isolated from natural sources, prepared by synthetic means, or mixtures thereof. Tocotrienol-enriched vitamin E preparations can be made by fractionating vitamin E preparations to remove a portion of the tocopherols and recover a more highly concentrated tocotrienol preparation. Useful tocotrienols are natural products isolated, for example, from wheat germ oil, grain oil or palm oil using high performance liquid chromatography, or isolated by alcohol extraction and/or molecular distillation at from barley, malting grain or oats. As used herein, the term "tocotrienols" includes the tocotrienol-rich fractions obtained from these natural products as well as the pure compounds. The increased activity of glutathione peroxidase protects the skin from oxidative damage.

Additionally, carotenoids, especially the xanthophyll type, are also useful antioxidants that can be utilized. Xanthophyll-like carotenoids include molecules such as lutein, canthaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, zeaxanthin, and astaxanthin. Xanthophylls protect compounds, such as vitamin A, vitamin E and other carotenoids.

Flavonoids

The active agent can be an antioxidant chosen from the group of flavonoids. In some cases, the flavonoid is a flavanone (derived from 2,3-dihydro-2-phenylchromen-4-one). Flavones include: butin, eriodictyol, hesperetin, hesperidin, homoeriodictyol, isosakuranetin, naringenin, naringin, pinocembrin, poncirin, sakuranetin, sakuranine, and sterubin. The flavonoid may be a flavanonol (derived from 3-hydroxy-2,3-dihydro-2-phenylchromen-4-one). Flavanols include: taxifolin, aromadrin, chrysandroside A, chrysandroside B, xeractinol, astilbine, and fustin. The flavonoid may be a flavone (derived from 2-phenylchromen-4-one). Flavones include: apigenin, luteolin, tangeritin, chrysin, baicalein, scutellarein, wogonin, synthetic flavones: diosmin, and flavoxate. The flavonoid may be a flavonol (derived from 3-hydroxy-2-phenylchromen-4-one). Flavonols include: 3-hydroxyflavone, azaleatin, fisetin, galangin, gossypetin, kaempferide, kaempferol, isorhamnetin, morin, myricetin, natsudaidaine, pachypodol, quercetin, rhamnazine, rhamnetin, azalein, hyperoside, isoquercitin, kaempferitrin, myricitrin, quercitrin, robinin, rutin, spiraeoside, xanthorhamnine, amurensin, icariin, and troxerutin. The flavonoid may be a flavan-3-ol (derivatives of 2-phenyl-3,4-dihydro-2H-chromen-3-ol). Flavan-3-ols include: catechin, epicatechin, epigallocatechin, epicatechin gallate, epigallocatechin gallate, epiafzelechin, fisetinidol, guibourtinidol, mesquitol, and robinetinidol. The flavonoid may be a flavan-4-ol (derived from 2-phenylchroman-4-ol). Flavan-4-ols include: apiforol and luteoforol. The flavonoid may be an isoflavone (derived from 3-phenylchromen-4-one). Isoflavones include: genistein, daidzein, biochanin A, formononetin, and the equol metabolite of daidzein.

The antioxidant can be an anthocyanidin (derived from the 2-phenylchromenylium cation). Anthocyanidins include: aurantinidin, cyanidin, delphinidin, europinidin, luteolinidin, pelargonidin, malvidin, peonidin, petunidin, rosinidin, and xanthone.

The antioxidant can be a dihydrochalcone (derived from 1,3-diphenyl-1-propanone). Dihydrochalcones include: phloretin, dihydrochalcone phloretin phlorizin, aspalathin, naringin dihydrochalcone, neohesperidin dihydrochalcone, and nothofagin. Without limiting the mode of action of the invention, dihydrochalcones can exert an antioxidant effect by reducing reactive free radicals, such as reactive oxygen and reactive nitrogen species.

The antioxidant may be an anthocyanin. Anthocyanins and their derivatives are antioxidants. Anthocyanins encompass a class of flavonoid compounds that are naturally occurring water-soluble compounds responsible for the red, purple, and blue colors of many fruits, vegetables, grains, and flowers. Also, anthocyanins are collagenase inhibitors. Inhibition of collagenase helps in preventing and reducing wrinkles, increasing skin elasticity, etc. which are caused by a reduction in collagen in the skin. Anthocyanins can be obtained from any part of various plant sources, such as fruit, flower, stem, leaves, root, bark or seeds. One skilled in the art will appreciate that certain parts of the plant may contain naturally higher levels of anthocyanins and therefore these parts are used to obtain the desired anthocyanins. In some cases, the antioxidants may include one or more betacyanins. Betacyanins, like anthocyanins, can be obtained from natural sources and are antioxidants.

The antioxidant can be a phenylpropanoid (derivatives of cinnamic acid). Phenylpropanoids include: cinnamic acid, caffeic acid, ferulic acid, trans-ferulic acid (including its antioxidant pharmacore, 2,6-dihydroxyacetophenome), 5-hydroxyferulic acid, sinapic acid, coumaryl alcohol, coniferyl alcohol, sinapyl alcohol, eugenol, chavicol, safrole, P-coumaric acid and sinapinic acid. Without limiting the mode of action of the invention, phenylpropanoids can neutralize free radicals.

The antioxidant can be a chalcone (derived from 1,3-diphenyl-2-propen-1-one). Chalcones include: butein, okanine, carthamine, marein, sophoradine, xanthohumol, flavokavin A, flavokavin B, flavokavin C, and synthetic safalcone.

The antioxidant may be a curcuminoid. Curcuminoids include: curcumin, desmethoxycurcumin, bis-desmethoxycurcumin, tetrahydrocurcumin and tetrahydrocurcuminoids. Curcumin and tetrahydrocurcuminoids can be derived from Curcuma longa rhizomes. Tetrahydrocurcumin, a metabolite of curcumin, has been shown to be a stronger and more stable antioxidant than curcumin.

The antioxidant may be a tannin. Tannins include: tannin, terflavin B, glucogallin, D-gallic acid and quercitannic acid.

The antioxidant may be a stilbenoid. Stilbenoids include: resveratrol, pterostilbene and piceatannol. Resveratrol may include, but is not limited to, 3,5,4'-trihydroxystilbene, 3,4,3',5'-tetrahydroxystilbene (piceatannol), 2,3',4,5'-tetrahydroxystilbene (oxyresveratrol), 4,4'-dihydroxystilbene and alpha and beta glucoside, galactoside and mannoside and derivatives thereof.

The antioxidant can be a coumarin (derivatives of 2H-chromene-2-one). Coumarins include: 4-hydroxycoumarin, umbelliferone, aesculetin, herniarin, aurapten, and dicoumarol.

The antioxidant may be a carotenoid. Carotenoids include: beta-carotene, alpha-carotene, gamma-carotene, beta-cryptoxanthin, lycopene, lutein and idebenone. Sesame (Sesamum indicum) or sesame lignans can also be added. Sesame and its lignans (fibrous compounds associated with sesame) act as antioxidants. Sesame seed lignans greatly enhance the activity of vitamin E.

The antioxidant can be: xanthone, butylated hydroxytoluene, 2,6-di-tert-butylphenol, 2,4-dimethyl-6-tert-butylphenol, gallic acid, eugenol, uric acid, alpha lipoic acid, ellagic acid, chicoric acid , chlorogenic acid, rosmarinic acid, salicylic acid, acetylcysteine, S-allyl cysteine, barbigerone, chebulagic acid, edaravone, ethoxyquin, glutathione, hydroxytyrosol, idebenone, melatonin, N-acetylserotonin, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, oleocanthal, oleuropein, paradol, probucolatannol , propyl gallate, protocatechuic acid, pyritinol, rutin, secoisolariciresinol diglucoside, sesamin, sesamol, silibinin, silymarin, theaflavin, theaflavin digallate, thymoquinone, trolox, tyrosol, polyunsaturated fatty acids, and sulfur-based antioxidants such as methionine or lipoic acid.

Thickening agent(s )

The skin treatment compositions described herein can optionally include a thickening agent. The amount of thickening agents can vary but is typically between about 0.01 and about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the skin treatment composition. In some cases, the amount of fatty compounds present in the skin treatment compositions is about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, about 0.1 to about 18% by weight, about 0.1 to about 16% by weight, about 0.1 to about 14% by weight, about 0.1 to about 12% by weight, about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, about 0, 1 to about 7% by weight, about 0.1 to about 6% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight; about 0.5 to about 20% by weight, about 0.5 to about 18% by weight, about 0.5 to about 16% by weight, about 0.5 to about 14% by weight, about 0.5 to about 12% by weight, about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, about 0.5 to about 7% by weight, about 0.5 to about 6% by weight, about 0.5 to about 5% by weight; about 1 to about 20% by weight, about 1 to about 18% by weight, about 1 to about 16% by weight, about 1 to about 14% by weight, about 1 to about 12% by weight, about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight, about 1 to about 7% by weight, about 1 to about 6% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight; about 2 to about 20 wt%, about 2 to about 18 wt%, about 2 to about 16 wt%, about 2 to about 14 wt%, about 2 to about 12 wt%, about 2 to about 10 wt%, about 2 to about 8 wt%, about 2 to about 7 wt%, about 2 to about 6 wt%, about 2 to about 5 wt%; about 3 to about 20 wt%, about 3 to about 18 wt%, about 3 to about 16 wt%, about 3 to about 14 wt%, about 3 to about 12 wt%, about 3 to about 10 wt%, about 3 to about 8 wt%, about 3 to about 7 wt%, about 3 to about 6 wt%, about 3 to about 5 wt%; about 4 to about 20 wt%, about 4 to about 18 wt%, about 4 to about 16 wt%, about 4 to about 14 wt%, about 4 to about 12 wt%, about 4 to about 10 wt%, about 4 to about 8 wt%, about 4 to about 7 wt%, about 4 to about 6 wt%, about 4 to about 5 wt%; about 5 to about 20 wt%, about 5 to about 18 wt%, about 5 to about 16 wt%, about 5 to about 14 wt%, about 5 to about 12 wt%, about 5 to about 10 wt%, or about 5 to about 8 wt%, about 5 to about 7 wt%, or about 5 to about 6 wt%, including all intermediate ranges and subranges, based on the total weight of the skin treatment composition.

The thickening agent(s) may be chosen from xanthan gum, guar gum, biosaccharide gum, cellulose, acacia seneca gum, sclerotium gum, agarose, pectin, gellan gum, hyaluronic acid. Additionally, the one or more thickening agents may include polymeric thickening agents selected from the group consisting of ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer, sodium polyacrylate, acrylate copolymers, polyacrylamide, carbomer and cross-linked polymer of acrylates/C _10-30 alkyl acrylate. In some cases, the composition includes ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate and/or sodium polyacrylate. Suitable thickening agents can be found in U.S. Patent Application No. 16/731,654.

Many thickening agents are water soluble, and increase the viscosity of water or form an aqueous gel when the skin treatment composition of the invention is dispersed/dissolved in water. The aqueous solution can be heated and cooled, or neutralized, to form the gel, if necessary. The thickening agent can be dispersed/dissolved in an aqueous solvent which is soluble in water, for example ethyl alcohol when dispersed/dissolved in water.

Specific types of thickening agents that may be mentioned include the following:

One or more thickening agents may optionally be included in the skin treatment compositions of this disclosure. Thickening agents may be referred to as "thickeners" or "viscosity modifiers". Thickening agents are typically included to increase the viscosity of skin treatment compositions. Nevertheless, in some cases, certain thickening agents provide additional and surprising benefits to skin treatment compositions. Non-limiting examples of thickening agents include polyacrylate crosslinked polymers or polyacrylate crosslinked polymers, cationic acrylate copolymers, anionic polymers of acrylic or carboxylic acid, polyacrylamide polymers, polysaccharides such as cellulose derivatives, gums, polyquaterniums, homopolymers/copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, C _8-24 hydroxyl-substituted aliphatic acids, C _8-24 conjugated aliphatic acids, sugar fatty esters, polyglyceryl esters and a mixture thereof. Particular types of thickening agents which may be mentioned include the following:

Homopolymer or copolymer based on ' carboxylic acid or carboxylate, which can be linear or cross-linked :

These polymers contain one or more monomers derived from acrylic acid, substituted acrylic acids, and salts and esters of these acrylic acids (acrylates) and substituted acrylic acids. Commercially available polymers include those sold under the trade names CARBOPOL, ACRYSOL, POLYGEL, SOKALAN, CARBOPOL ULTREZ and POLYGEL. Examples of commercially available carboxylic acid polymers include carbomers, which are homopolymers of acrylic acid cross-linked with allyl ethers of sucrose or pentaerythritol. Carbomers are available in the CARBOPOL 900 series from BF Goodrich (eg, CARBOPOL 954). In addition, other suitable polymeric carboxylic acid agents include ULTREZ 10 (BF Goodrich) and copolymers of C _10-30 alkyl acrylates with one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or one of their short chain esters (i.e. a C _1-4 alcohol), in which the cross-linking agent is an allyl ether of sucrose or pentaerythritol. These copolymers are known as cross-linked acrylates/C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl acrylate polymers and are commercially available under the names CARBOPOL 1342, CARBOPOL 1382, PEMULEN TR-1 and PEMULEN TR-2, by BF Goodrich.

Other suitable polymeric carboxylic acid or carboxylate agents include copolymers of acrylic acid and C ₅ -C ₁₀ alkyl acrylate, copolymers of acrylic acid and maleic anhydride, and the cross-linked polymer of polyacrylate -6. Polyacrylate-6 cross-linked polymer is available in the raw material known as SEPIMAX ZEN from Seppic.

Another suitable polymeric carboxylic acid or carboxylate agent includes acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylates copolymer, a cationic copolymer of acrylates (or a quaternary ammonium compound), available as a raw material known as SIMULQUAT HC 305 by Seppic.

In certain embodiments, the carboxylic acid or carboxylate polymer thickening agents useful herein are those selected from carbomers, crosslinked polymers of acrylates/C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl acrylate, crosslinked polymer of polyacrylate- 6, acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylates copolymer, and mixtures thereof.

Cellulose :

Non-limiting examples of celluloses include cellulose, carboxymethylhydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose acetate propionate carboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethylethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate and mixtures thereof. In some cases, the cellulose is selected from water-soluble cellulose derivatives (eg, carboxymethylcellulose, methylcellulose, methylhydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, sodium salt of cellulose sulfate). Also, in some cases, the cellulose is preferably hydroxypropyl cellulose (HPC).

Polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) and copolymers :

Non-limiting examples include polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)/vinyl acetate copolymer (PVP/VA copolymer), polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)/eicosene copolymer, PVP/hexadecene copolymer, and the like. Commercially available polyvinylpyrrolidones include LUVISKOL K30, K85, K90 available from BASF. Commercially available copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate include LUVISKOL VA37, VA64 available from BASF; Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, methacrylamide and vinylimidazole (INCI: VP/Methacrylamide/Vinyl Imidazole Copolymer) are commercially available under the name LUVISET from BASF. In some cases, PVP and the PVP/VA copolymer are preferred.

Sucrose esters :

Non-limiting examples include sucrose palmitate, sucrose cocoate, sucrose monooctanoate, sucrose monodecanoate, sucrose mono- or dilaurate, sucrose monomyristate, sucrose mono- or dipalmitate, sucrose mono- and distearate, mono-, di - or sucrose trioleate, sucrose mono- or dilinoleate, sucrose pentaoleate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose heptaoleate or sucrose octooleate, and mixed esters, such as sucrose palmitate/stearate, and mixtures thereof .

Polyglyceryl esters :

Non-limiting fatty acid polyglycerol esters (polyglyceryl esters) include those of the following formula:

wherein n is 2 to 20 or 2 to 10 or 2 to 5, or is 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10, and R ¹ , R ² and R ³ can each independently be a fatty acid moiety or hydrogen, provided that at least one of R ¹ , R ² and R ³ is a fatty acid moiety. For example, R ¹ , R ² and R ³ can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and have a length of C ₁ -C ₄₀ , C ₁ -C ₃₀ , C ₁ -C ₂₅ , or C ₁ -C ₂₀ , C ₁ -C ₁₆ , or C ₁ -C ₁₀ . Additionally, non-limiting examples of nonionic polyglycerol esters of fatty acids include polyglyceryl-4 caprylate/caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprylate/caprate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprate, polyglyceryl laurate -4, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 cocoate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, and mixtures thereof -this.

Erasers :

Non-limiting examples of gums include gum arabic, gum tragacanth, gum karaya, guar gum, gellan gum, tara gum, locust bean gum, tamarind gum, xanthan gum, locust bean gum, Seneca gum, sclerotium gum, gellan gum , etc.

pH adjuster(s)

The skin treatment composition can include one or more pH adjusters to increase or decrease the overall pH of the skin treatment composition. For example, one or more acids can be included to lower the pH of the skin treatment composition. Examples of acids suitable for lowering the pH of the skin treatment composition include, but are not limited to, citric acid, acetic acid and the like. The skin treatment composition can include one or more bases, such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and the like, to increase the pH of the skin treatment composition. Additional or alternative acids and bases which are suitable for adjusting the pH of the skin treatment composition are readily known to one of ordinary skill in the art.

The amount of pH adjuster in the skin treatment composition can be based on the desired pH of the composition and/or the final skin treatment product. For example, the skin treatment composition can have an amount of pH adjusters such that the pH of the composition is from about 3 to about 7, preferably from about 3.5 to about 6.5, from preferably about 3.5 to about 6, or preferably about 3.5 to about 5.5.

The amount of the pH adjuster in the skin treatment composition can be based on the desired pH of the composition and/or the final skin treatment product. For example, the total amount of pH adjuster can range from about 0.05 to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the skin treatment composition. In some cases, the total amount of pH adjuster is about 0.05 to about 15% by weight, about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, or about 0.12 to about 5% by weight, including intermediate ranges and subranges, based on the total weight of the skin treatment composition.

Chelating agent(s)

The skin treatment composition can optionally include chelating agents. The amount of chelating agent present in the skin treatment composition can be, for example, about 0.01 to about 20% by weight, about 0.01 to about 15% by weight, about 0.01 to about 10 % by weight, about 0.01 to about 8% by weight, about 0.01 to about 6% by weight, about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, about 0.01 to about 4% by weight, about 0 .01 to about 3% by weight, about 0.01 to about 2% by weight, about 0.01 to about 1% by weight; about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, about 0.1 to about 6% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, about 0.1 to about 2% by weight, about 0.1 to about 1% by weight; about 0.25 to about 20% by weight, about 0.25 to about 15% by weight, about 0.25 to about 10% by weight, about 0.25 to about 8% by weight, about 0.25 to about 6% by weight, about 0.25 to about 5% by weight, about 0.25 to about 4% by weight, about 0.25 to about 3% by weight, about 0.25 to about 2% by weight, about 0.25 to about 1% by weight; about 0.5 to about 20% by weight, about 0.5 to about 15% by weight, about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, about 0.5 to about 6% by weight, about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, about 0.5 to about 2% by weight, about 0.5 to about 1% by weight; about 0.75 to about 20% by weight, about 0.75 to about 15% by weight, about 0.75 to about 10% by weight, about 0.75 to about 8% by weight, about 0.75 to about 6% by weight, about 0.75 to about 5% by weight, about 0.75 to about 4% by weight, about 0.75 to about 3% by weight, about 0.75 to about 2% by weight, about 0.75 to about 1% by weight; about 1 to about 20 wt%, about 1 to about 15 wt%, about 1 to about 10 wt%, about 1 to about 8 wt%, about 1 to about 6 wt%, about 1 to about 5 wt%, about 1 to about 4 wt%, about 1 to about 3 wt%, or about 1 to about 2 wt%, inclusive of intermediate ranges and subranges, based on the total weight of the skin treatment composition.

Non-limiting examples of chemical chelating agents include aminotrimethyl phosphonic acid, β-alanine diacetic acid, cyclodextrin, cyclohexanediamine tetraacetic acid, diethylenetriamine pentamethylene phosphonic acid, diethanolamine N-acetic acid, ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA or YH ₄ ) and its salts sodium (YH ₃ Na, Y ₂ H ₂ Na ₂ , YHNa ₃ and Yna ₄ ), potassium (YH ₃ K, Y ₂ H ₃ K ₃ and YK ₄ ), disodium calcium and diammonium and its salts with triethanolamine (TEA-EDTA), etidronic acid, galactanic acid, hydroxyethylethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (HEDTA) and its trisodium salt, gluconic acid, glucuronic acid, nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) and its trisodium salt, pentetic acid, phytic acid, ribonic acid, citrate diammonium, disodium azacycloheptane diphosphonate, disodium pyrophosphate, hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin, methyl cyclodextrin, pentapotassium triphosphate, pentasodium aminotrimethylene phosphonate, ethyl pentasodium tetramethylene phosphonate enediamine, pentasodium pentetate, pentasodium triphosphate, potassium citrate, potassium EDTMP, sodium EDTMP, sodium chitosan methylene phosphonate, sodium hexametaphosphate, sodium metaphosphate, potassium polyphosphate, sodium polyphosphate, sodium trimetaphosphate, sodium dihydroxyethylglycinate, potassium gluconate, sodium gluconate, sodium glucopeptate, sodium glycereth-1 polyphosphate, tetrapotassium pyrophosphate, triethanolamine polyphosphate (TEA), tetrasodium pyrophosphate, trisodium phosphate, potassium triphosphonomethylamine oxide, sodium metasilicate, phytate sodium polydimethylglycinophenolsulfonate, tetrahydroxyethyl ethylenediamine, tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine, tetrapotassium etidronate, tetrasodium etidronate, tetrasodium iminodisuccinate, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, ethanolamine N,N-diacetic acid, disodium acetate, dimerca prol, deferoxamine, Zylox, and/or the iron chelating agent disclosed and claimed in International Patent Application WO 94/61338. Examples of biological chelating agents include metallothionein, transferrin, calmodulin and sodium chitosan methylene phosphonate. In at least one case, the chelating agent is trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate.

Curator(s)

Preservatives may be included in the skin treatment composition in an amount typically ranging from about 0.01 to about 20% by weight, about 0.01 to about 18% by weight, about 0.01 to about 16% by weight, about 0.01 to about 14% by weight, about 0.01 to about 12% by weight, about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, about 0.01 to about 8% by weight, about 0, 01 to about 7 wt%, about 0.01 to about 6 wt%, about 0.01 to about 5 wt%; about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, about 0.1 to about 18% by weight, about 0.1 to about 16% by weight, about 0.1 to about 14% by weight, about 0.1 to about 12% by weight, about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, about 0.1 to about 7% by weight, about 0.1 to about 6% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight; about 1 to about 20 wt%, about 1 to about 18 wt%, about 1 to about 16 wt%, about 1 to about 14 wt%, about 1 to about 12 wt%, about 1 to about 10 wt%, about 1 to about 8 wt%, about 1 to about 7 wt%, about 1 to about 6 wt%, about 1 to about 5 wt%; about 4 to about 20 wt%, about 4 to about 18 wt%, about 4 to about 16 wt%, about 4 to about 14 wt%, about 4 to about 12 wt%, about 4 to about 10 wt%, about 4 to about 8 wt%, or about 4 to about 7 wt%, including all ranges and subranges in between, based on the total weight of the skin treatment composition. Non-limiting examples of preservatives include sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, phenoxyethanol, salicylic acid, tocopherol, chlorphenesin, BHT, disodium EDTA, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, and mixtures thereof.

Water

The skin treatment composition may include 10% by weight or more of water. For example, the amount of water present in the skin treatment composition can be about 10% by weight or more, about 15% by weight or more, about 20% by weight or more, about 25% by weight or more, about 30% by weight or more, about 35% by weight or more, about 40% by weight or more, 45% by weight or more, about 50% by weight or more, about 55% by weight or more, about 60 wt% or more, about 65 wt% or more, about 70 wt% or more, about 75 wt% or more, about 80 wt% or more, about 85 wt% or more, or about 90% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the skin treatment composition. Additionally or alternatively, the skin treatment compositions may contain about 95% by weight or less, about 90% by weight or less, about 85% by weight or less, about 80% by weight or less, about 75% by weight or less, about 70% by weight or less, about 65% by weight or less, about 60% by weight or less, about 55% by weight or less, about 50% by weight or less, about 45% by weight or less, about 40% by weight or less, about 40% by weight or less, about 35% by weight or less, about 30% by weight or less, about 25% by weight or less, about 20% by weight or less, about 15% by weight or less, about 10% by weight or less, about 5% by weight or less, about 3% by weight or less, about 2% by weight or less, or about 1% by weight or less, on the basis of the total weight of the skin treatment composition. In some embodiments, the skin treatment compositions have an amount of water based on the above lower and upper limits, such as, for example, about 40 to about 90% by weight, about 45 to about 80% by weight, about 48 to about 75% by weight, including intermediate ranges and subranges, based on the total weight of the skin treatment composition. Although the skin treatment compositions can be aqueous, in some embodiments the skin treatment compositions are water-free (anhydrous) or substantially water-free (substantially anhydrous).

In some embodiments, the skin firming composition may be mono-alcohol free. Those skilled in the art will understand that the monoalcohol can be present in a composition via its presence in one or more of the ingredients; thus, in some embodiments, the skin treatment composition may be substantially alcohol-free. For example, the alcohol may be present in the skin treatment composition at a concentration which does not exceed 5% by weight, and in some cases does not exceed 3% by weight, and in some cases does not exceed 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the skin treatment composition.

The skin treatment composition may optionally include about 10% by weight or less of miscellaneous ingredients, based on the total weight of the skin treatment composition. Non-limiting examples of miscellaneous ingredients include active ingredients, pH adjusters, preservatives, salts, chelating agents, colorants, salts, antimicrobial agents, fragrances, vitamins, pearlescent agents, absorbers fragrances, coloring matter, essential oils, fruit extracts and combinations thereof. One or more of the aforementioned miscellaneous ingredients may be excluded from embodiments of the disclosure. The amount of miscellaneous ingredients may be about 10% by weight or less, about 9% by weight or less, about 8% by weight or less, about 7% by weight or less, about 6% by weight or less, about 5 wt% or less, about 4 wt% or less, about 3 wt% or less, about 2 wt% or less, or about 1 wt% or less, based on the total weight of the composition skin treatment.

METHODS OF ACHIEVING DISCLOSURE

According to one embodiment of the disclosure, there is provided a method of improving skin comprising:

- reducing melanin synthesis by applying a skin treatment composition to the skin, the skin treatment comprising:

(i) about 0.1 to about 25% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 16% by weight, more preferably about 0.1 to about 10% by weight acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine;

(ii) optionally, from about 0.1 to about 90% by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 25% by weight, more preferably from about 15 to about 25% by weight, of a silicone, a fatty compound or a mixture thereof, in which the silicone, the fatty compound or a mixture thereof comprises a silicone chosen from lauryl peg-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, dimethylsiloxane, poly dimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, dimethicone, acrylate/dimethicone polymer and mixtures thereof and/or a fatty compound selected from fatty alcohol, fatty ester, fatty ether, fatty acid, hydrocarbon oil, derivatives thereof these and mixtures thereof; and

1. optionally, from about 0.5 to about 30% by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 25% by weight, more preferably from about 5 to about 20% by weight, of a polyol, wherein the polyol is selected from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3 propanediol, glycerine, polyethylene glycols and mixtures thereof;

wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the skin treatment composition.

According to a further embodiment of the disclosure, there is provided a skin improvement method comprising:

- reducing melanin synthesis by applying a skin treatment composition to the skin, the skin treatment comprising:

(i) about 0.1 to about 25% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 16% by weight, more preferably about 0.1 to about 10% by weight acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine; wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the skin treatment composition.

According to another embodiment, there is a method for treating skin having one or more of eczema, acne and psoriasis, the method comprising the following steps

- reduce inflammation of skin exhibiting one or more of eczema, acne and psoriasis, by applying an amount of skin treatment composition, the skin treatment composition comprising:

(i) about 0.1 to about 25% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 16% by weight, more preferably about 0.1 to about 10% by weight acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine;

(ii) optionally, from about 0.1 to about 90% by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 25% by weight, more preferably from about 15 to about 25% by weight, d a silicone, a fatty compound or a mixture thereof, in which the silicone, the fatty compound or a mixture thereof comprises a silicone chosen from lauryl peg-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, dimethylsiloxane, poly dimethylsiloxane , polydimethylsiloxane, dimethicone, acrylate/dimethicone polymer and mixtures thereof and/or a fatty compound selected from a fatty alcohol, a fatty ester, a fatty ether, a fatty acid, a hydrocarbon oil, derivatives of those these and mixtures thereof; and

1. optionally, from about 0.5 to about 30% by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 25% by weight, more preferably from about 5 to about 20% by weight, of a polyol, in which the polyol is chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3 propanediol, glycerin, polyethylene glycols, mixtures thereof,

wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the skin treatment composition.

According to another embodiment, there is a method of treating skin suffering from one or more of eczema, acne and psoriasis, the method comprising:

- reduce inflammation of skin exhibiting one or more of eczema, acne and psoriasis, by applying an amount of skin treatment composition, the skin treatment composition comprising:

(i) about 0.1 to about 25% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 16% by weight, more preferably about 0.1 to about 10% by weight acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine, wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the skin treatment composition.

According to yet another embodiment, there is provided a skin treatment composition which typically includes:

- about 0.1 to about 25% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 16% by weight, more preferably about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine;

- from about 0.1 to about 30% by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 25% by weight, more preferably from about 15 to about 25% by weight, of a silicone, d a fatty compound or a mixture thereof, in which the silicone, the fatty compound or a mixture thereof comprises a silicone chosen from lauryl peg-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, dimethylsiloxane, poly dimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, dimethicone, acrylate/dimethicone polymer and mixtures thereof and/or a fatty compound selected from fatty alcohol, fatty ester, fatty ether, fatty acid, hydrocarbon oil, derivatives thereof and mixtures of these ;

- optionally, from about 0.5 to about 30% by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 25% by weight, more preferably from about 5 to about 20% by weight, of a polyol , wherein the polyol is selected from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3 propanediol, glycerine, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof, wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the skin treatment composition; and

- optionally, more than zero to about 10% by weight, preferably about 10 ppm to about 10% by weight, more preferably about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, of a skin active agent selected from sodium hyaluronate, capryloyl salicylic acid, coco caprate/caprylate, alpha and/or beta arbutin, ferulic acid, lucinol, kojic acid, resorcinol, tranexamic acid, gentisic acid, homogentisic acid, methyl gentisate or homogentisate, dioic acid, D calcium panthetein sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, linoleic acid, stilbenoid, coumarin, tannin, curcuminoid, chalcone, phenylpropanoid, anthocyanin, dihydrochalcone, anthocyanidin, tocopherols, sesame lignin, vitamin C, derivatives thereof , salts thereof and mixtures thereof.

The terms "comprising", "having" and "including" are used in their open and non-limiting sense. The compositions and methods of this disclosure may include, consist, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the disclosure described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein or otherwise useful.

All percentages, parts and ratios given herein are based on the total weight of the compositions of this disclosure, unless otherwise indicated. All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. The expression “inclusive” for a range of concentrations means that the limits of the range are included in the defined interval. For example, any value or point described here that falls within a range described here can be used as a minimum or maximum value to derive a subrange, etc. Also, all ranges provided are meant to include each specific range included, as well as any combination of subranges between the given ranges. Thus, a range of 1 to 5 specifically includes 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, as well as subranges such as 2 to 5, 3 to 5, 2 to 3, 2 to 4, 1 to 4, etc.

As used herein, the term "at least one" is interchangeable with the term "one or more" and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

The term "substantially free" or "substantially free" as used herein means that there is less than about 5% by weight of a specific material added to a composition, based on the total weight of the compositions . However, the compositions may include less than about 2 wt%, less than about 1 wt%, less than about 0.5 wt%, less than about 0.1 wt%, less than 0, 01% by weight, or none of the specified material.

The term "active ingredient", as used herein in relation to the percentage amount of an ingredient or raw material, refers to an activity of 100% of the ingredient or raw material. .

Throughout the disclosure, the phrase "a mixture thereof" may be used following a list of items, as shown in the following example where the letters A through F represent the items: "one or several elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture thereof”. The phrase "a mixture thereof" does not require that the mixture include all of A, B, C, D, E, and F (although all of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included). Rather, it indicates that a mixture of two or more of the elements A, B, C, D, E and F may be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the phrase "one or more items selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture of two or more of A, B, C, D , E and F”.

Likewise, the term "a salt thereof" also refers to "salts thereof". Thus, when the disclosure refers to "an element selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof", it is indicating that a or more of A, B, C, D, and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included, or a mixture of any two of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F can be included. Salts mentioned throughout the disclosure can include salts having a counterion such as an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal or an ammonium counterion. However, this list of counterions is not exhaustive.

"Volatile" as used herein means having a flash point below about 100°C. "Non-volatile", as used herein, means having a flash point above about 100°C.

The term "polymers", as defined herein, includes homopolymers and copolymers formed from two or more different types of monomers.

The term "INCI" is an abbreviation of International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, which is a naming system provided by the International Nomenclature Committee of the Personal Care Products Council to describe personal care ingredients.

All components and elements positively presented in this disclosure can be negatively excluded from the claims. In other words, the compositions (nanoemulsions) of the present disclosure can be free or essentially free of all the components and elements mentioned positively in the present disclosure.

Some of the various component categories identified may overlap. In such cases where an overlap may exist and the composition includes both components (or the composition includes more than two overlapping components), an overlapping compound does not represent more than one component. For example, a fatty acid can be characterized as both a nonionic surfactant and a fatty compound. If a particular composition includes both a nonionic surfactant and a fatty compound, a single fatty acid will serve only as the nonionic surfactant or only as the fatty compound (the single fatty acid does not serve as both the nonionic surfactant and the fatty compound). fatty compound).

EXAMPLES

Implementation of this disclosure is provided by means of the following examples. The examples serve to illustrate the technology without being limiting in nature.

Example 1

(Examples of compositions)

Composition example 1 (Ex. 1) US INCI Ingredient Names % in weight Acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine ACETYL TRIFLUOROMETHYLPHENYL VALYLGLYCIN 10 Silicone CETYL PEG/PPG-10/1 DIMETHICONE, PEG/PPG-18/18 DIMETHICONE, DIMETHICONE, C30-45 ALKYL DIMETHICONE, and DIMETHICONOL 15 Emollient PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAETHYLHEXANOATE 2 fatty compound ETHYLHEXYL PALMITATE and ISOHEXADECANE 5 Polyol GLYCERIN, CAPRYLYL GLYCOL, and BUTYLENE GLYCOL 8 Active agents for the skin CENTELLA ASIATICA EXTRACT, SODIUM PALMITOYL PROLINE, NYMPHAEA ALBA FLOWER EXTRACT, and SODIUM CARBOXYMETHYL BETA-GLUCAN 1 Miscellaneous (preservatives, bulking agents, pH adjusters and/or the like) PHENOXYETHANOL, SODIUM BENZOATE, MAGNESIUM SULFATE, and CITRIC ACID 1 Water DEIONIZED WATER SQ at 100

Example 2

( E evaluation of prostaglandin E ₂ and from the ' acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine)

Six cultures of human primary melanocytes were cultured for four days. Then, the cultures were treated with 10 μL of one of the compositions A to E each day for ten days. Composition A contained 0.005% by weight of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine, 2% by weight of ethanol, the balance being water. Composition B contained 0.05% by weight of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine, 2% by weight of ethanol, the balance being water. Composition C contained 30 nM of prostaglandin E ₂ , 2% by weight of ethanol, the remainder being water. Composition D contains 0.005% by weight of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine, 30 nM of prostaglandin E ₂ , 2% by weight of ethanol, the remainder being water. Composition E contained 0.05% by weight of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine, 30 nM of prostaglandin E ₂ , 2% by weight of ethanol, the remainder being water. All weight percentages for compositions A through E are based on the total weight of the respective composition. The culture medium was changed daily for the ten day period.

After the 10 days, the cells in the culture were lysed and the melanin content was measured. Specifically, cells were stained with Fontana Masion stain and measured with a plate reader. A BCA test was performed to quantify protein concentration. Cells were also imaged using a fluorescent microscope at 10x magnification (Leica DMI8, Leica). To eliminate the melanin content caused by the increase in the number of NHEM cells in the system, the final melanin level was calculated by dividing the protein content in each culture. The is an image of the cells after lysis and melanin staining. The is a bar graph showing the amount of melanin in the six cell groups after the ten days of treatment.

As can be seen in FIGS. 1 and 2, prostaglandin E ₂ stimulates melanin production, and acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine reduces melanin synthesis after induction by prostaglandin E ₂ . In particular, the cells which received composition E—0.05% by weight of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine and 30 nM of prostaglandin E ₂ —showed a melanin synthesis similar to that of the control. Without being limited to any specific theory, compositions according to aspects of the disclosure are believed to provide improvement in skin tone, such as reduction of discoloration, by reducing melanin synthesis.

Example 3

(Assessment of ' acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine on l ' post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation)

The efficacy of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine in modulating key genetic markers of the inflammatory pathway in relation to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation conditions was assessed. Specifically, four-well plates were seeded with a single cell culture of normal human epidermal melanocytes (NHEM), and cultured in culture medium (namely, culture medium # M254500, obtained from ThermoFisher ^TM ) and supplemented with Gibco™ Human Melanocyte Growth Supplement (ie, Human Melanocyte Growth Supplement #S0165, obtained from ThermoFisher ^™ ) at a density of 10,000 cells/cm ² for 3-4 days.

The culture medium was then replaced with culture media containing different treatments. Specifically, the cell cultures were treated with 10 μL of one of compositions C to E once a day for ten days (except weekends). After 10 days, cells were trypsinized and centrifuged at 180x gravity for 7 minutes, then RNA was isolated using QIAshredder Cell Lysate Homogenizer No. 79654, which was available from Qiagen ^TM . RNA was isolated according to the manufacturer's instructions. RNA was then quantified using the NanoDrop spectrophotometer.

After RNA isolation was complete, 1 µg RNA samples from each cell culture were used for cDNA reactions for reverse transcription. The reverse transcription parameters were as follows: a temperature of 25°C for 10 minutes, a temperature of 37°C for 2 hours, then a temperature of 85°C for 5 minutes. For qRT-PCR reverse transcription, a 10 ng cDNA sample was used per reaction. Expression of COX-2 and p38 genes were normalized to TATA binding protein (TBP, reference gene). ΔCt values were generated for the target genes using the maintenance Ct value for each respective biological replicate. ΔCt values were averaged and used to calculate ΔΔCt values. ΔΔCt values were then determined for each biological replicate by normalizing them to the mean ΔCt value of the appropriate untreated control. ΔΔCt values were then used to calculate relative quantification (RQ) values.

As seen in Figures 3A and 3B, prostaglandin E2 triggered the cyclooxygenase- ₂ (COX-2) cascade and the p38 mitogen-activated protein kinase (p38 MAPK) pathway in NHEM, while acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine significantly attenuated the level of COX-2 and P38 MAPK induced by prostaglandin E ₂ . Prostaglandin _E2 is an endogenous lipid mediator of inflammation, which is typically up-regulated in skin disorders related to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). Without being limited to a specific theory, the two main processes that lead to IPH are thought to be overproduction of melanin and uneven dispersion of the pigment after skin inflammation. The determination that acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine modulates COX-2 and P38 MAPK (two of the key signaling genes in the inflammatory pathway) suggests that the skin treatment compositions disclosed herein would be effective in modulating inflammation and pigmentation such as they are driven by the conditions of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH).

Example 4

(Assessment of ' effect of the composition example 1 on dyschromia)

The benefits of applying Composition Example 1 after a procedure that reduces the barrier function of the skin was evaluated. More specifically, thirty-three female volunteers whose skin showed mild to severe crow's feet wrinkles (2 to 5.6/0 to 6 on the Atlas scale), mild to severe dyschromia (3.5 to 8/0 to 9 on the Griffith scale) and mild to severe roughness (3.5 to 8/0 to 9 on the Griffith scale) contributed to this assessment.

After the volunteers underwent a non-ablative fractional laser resurfacing procedure, each volunteer received 5 mg of Composition Example 1 on a first half of their face and received 5 mg of Comparative Composition F on the second half of his face. Application of Composition Example 1 and Comparative Composition F occurred once in the morning and once in the afternoon or evening for 28 days. The list of ingredients for Comparative Composition F is provided below.

Petrolatum, mineral oil, ceresin, lanolin alcohol, panthenol, glycerin and bisabolol.

The volunteers were then assessed to assess dyschromia. The results of the dyschromia change are presented as a bar graph in the . Composition Example 1 provided significantly better reduction in skin discoloration at Day 7, Day 14, and Day 28. Specifically, Composition Example 1 provided significant reduction in skin discoloration at Day 14 and Day 28. 28 with clinical significance, and significantly exceeded the clinical benchmark of Comparative Composition F. In addition, Composition Example 1 prevented the increase in inflammation caused by the day-to-day non-ablative fractional laser resurfacing procedure. 7. Notably, Comparative Composition F did not prevent inflammation at day 7, which was caused by the non-ablative fractional laser resurfacing procedure.

Example 5

(Evaluation of the skin layer of the ' acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine)

Tri-culture models, co-culture models and single cell culture models were treated with a composition containing acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine to assess the effects on different skin cells. Specifically, the three cultures of each of the tri-culture models (normal human epidermal melanocytes, normal human epidermal keratinocytes and normal human dermal fibroblasts), co-culture models (normal human epidermal melanocytes and normal human epidermal keratinocytes) and Single-cell culture models (normal human epidermal melanocytes) were cultured for four days. The cultures were then treated once a day for 10 days with a composition containing 10% DMSO, water and lipoic acid (composition G) in sufficient quantity to deposit 25 μm on the cell culture models, a composition containing 10% DMSO, water and acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine (composition H) in sufficient quantity to deposit 100 µm on the cell culture models, or a composition containing 10% DMSO, water and acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine (composition I) in sufficient quantity to deposit 300 μm on the cell culture models. The culture medium was changed daily for the ten day period.

After the 10 days, the cells in the culture were lysed and the melanin content was measured using a procedure and equipment similar to those described in Example 2. is a graph illustrating the level of inhibition of melanin synthesis for cell cultures as a function of treatment of compositions containing lipoic acid or acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine.

As can be seen on the , 100 µM acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine inhibited L-Tyrosine-induced melanin synthesis in the three-culture (K/M/F) model. Interestingly, while the amount of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine did not seem to inhibit melanin synthesis in the co-culture on melanocytes and keratinocytes, an inhibitory effect was observed for the melanocyte cultures. The inhibitory effect for the melanocyte cultures was less than that observed in the tri-culture. Without being limited to any particular theory, it is believed that the inhibition of melanin synthesis in a tri-culture model (K/M/F) by acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine is at least partially due to the presence of fibroblasts

Claims (4)

Skin treatment composition comprising:

1. about 0.1 to about 25% by weight acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine; and
2. about 0.1 to about 90% by weight of a silicone, a fatty compound or a mixture thereof,

wherein the skin treatment composition is an emulsion, and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the skin treatment composition. Composition according to claim 1, further comprising:

1. approximately 0.5 to approximately 30% by weight of a polyol chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3 propanediol, glycerin, polyethylene glycols and a mixture of these.

A composition according to claim 1 or 2, containing about 0.1 to about 30% by weight of a silicone selected from lauryl peg-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, dimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, dimethicone, acrylate/dimethicone polymer, and mixtures of these. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, containing about 0.1 to about 15% by weight of a skin active agent selected from sodium hyaluronate, capryloyl salicylic acid, caprate/caprylate coco, alpha and/or or beta arbutin, ferulic acid, lucinol, kojic acid, resorcinol, tranexamic acid, gentisic acid, homogentisic acid, methyl gentisate or homogentisate, dioic acid, calcium D panthetein sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, linoleic acid, stilbenoid, coumarin, tannin, curcuminoid, chalcone, phenylpropanoid, anthocyanin, dihydrochalcone, anthocyanidin, tocopherols, sesame lignin, vitamin C, derivatives thereof, salts thereof and a mixture thereof.