FR3046067A1 - EMULSION COMPRISING A SPICULISPORIC ACID MOSOSEL AND AT LEAST ONE ODORANT VOLATILE MATERIAL - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an oily phase, an aqueous phase, said composition comprising: from 0.1 to 15% by weight of spiculisporic acid relative to the total weight of the composition; at least one base selected from amino acids and alkanolamines in an amount capable of forming the monosel of spiculisporic acid; from 0.0001% to 30% of at least one volatile fragrance material chosen from essential oils and substances Fragrant.

Description

The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic compositions comprising fragrant volatile materials, in particular fragrances and essential oils.

The cosmetic compositions often comprise volatile components such as volatile solvents in the aqueous phase of care or make-up compositions, volatile oils in make-up compositions or even for certain applications of essential oils.

However, their volatility can pose a number of problems.

Indeed, when the desired effect is not related to the volatility of the compound, it is often desired to reduce this volatility in order to overcome the need to introduce too much volatile matter in the products comprising them, and in particular in cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions.

Thus, in this context, it would be desirable to reduce the volatility of volatile volatile materials. This would advantageously, on the one hand, to retain a greater amount of said volatile material at its application site and thus increase its efficiency, and on the other hand to reduce the cost of compositions containing them .

The technical problem at the origin of the present invention is to reduce the volatility of volatile volatile substances while maintaining or even improving the cosmetic qualities of the compositions in which they are used.

Concerning more particularly the essential oils, they are generally fragrant but not always perfumes: indeed they do not always generate a pleasant odor for the entourage. They are used in a wide variety of food products, deodorants and cosmetics. Their complex composition gives them specific biological properties depending on the origin of the plant such as anti-aging, anti-bacterial, deodorant ...

However, the constituents of these plant active ingredients are essentially hydrophobic and have more or less high volatilities which generally make their formulation difficult.

In the specific case where a formulation in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion is targeted, the evaporation of a significant proportion of the essential oil is often observed both during the application of the composition to the keratin materials, such as the skin or the hair, and after the formation of a deposit or a film on said keratin materials. However, the quality of this deposit / film is related to the intrinsic properties of the components of said composition and particularly surfactants. The evaporation of volatile volatile matter and more particularly of essential oils in formulation is a major technical problem to solve in order to control their diffusion / release in order to ensure their activity / effectiveness.

Surprisingly, the inventors have demonstrated that the use of a particular surfactant, in this case a salt of spiculisporic acid, makes it possible to solve this problem. Spiculisporic acid is an emulsifying biosurfactant derived from microorganisms that is non-toxic to the environment. Therefore this biotensioactif appears as an interesting alternative to synthetic surfactant molecules with film-forming properties derived from petroleum to the extent that these are generally deleterious to the environment.

Moreover synthetic surfactants are certainly good emulsifiers but lead for the most part to the formation of moisture-sensitive and weakly cohesive films.

Thus, the present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion comprising an oily phase, an aqueous phase, said composition comprising: from 0.1 to 15%, preferably from 0.5 to 10% and even more preferably from 1 to 8% by weight of spiculisporic acid relative to the total weight of the composition, at least one base chosen from amino acids and alkanolamines in one amount capable of forming the monosel of spiculisporic acid, from 0.0001% to 30% of at least one volatile fragrant material chosen from essential oils and perfuming substances.

The composition according to the invention advantageously makes it possible to reduce the volatility of a volatile fragrant material, in particular of an essential oil, while reducing its alteration.

The composition according to the invention is capable of forming a stable, homogeneous and resistant film which premet to limit or avoid the evaporation of said volatile fragrant material. The use of spiculisporic acid in the context of the invention also makes it possible to dispense with the addition of additional film-forming polymers. Indeed, it is always advantageous to be able to formulate compositions comprising a limited number of ingredients.

In addition, the emulsifying properties of this biosurfactant are at least of the order of those of the synthetic surfactants, the O / W emulsions according to the invention are therefore particularly stable and homogeneous, as shown in the examples below.

The composition according to the invention constitutes an interesting alternative to the compositions of the prior art comprising synthetic surfactants by virtue of its emulsifying power, and by the stability, the remanence and the moisture resistance of the films obtained after drying of said composition. .

The composition according to the invention is also particularly respectful of the environment.

The composition according to the invention also has the advantage of being formulated by integrating the appropriate ingredients for a variety of cosmetic applications such as deodorants, skincare and / or makeup products such as creams, hair care products. and in particular the products containing odorous volatile substances such as perfumes or advantageously essential oils.

The compositions obtained, in particular the skincare and / or make-up products, also lead to generally thin films having advantages in terms of sensory properties, especially a pleasant feel.

According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to the use of the composition according to the invention as a product for makeup, care, hygiene and / or cleaning of keratinous substances such as skin or hair.

According to a third aspect, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process, makeup, care, hygiene and / or cleaning comprising a step of applying the composition according to the invention said keratin materials.

According to a fourth aspect, the present invention relates to the use of spiculisporic acid in the form of a mono-salt of a base chosen from amino acids and alkanolamines to prevent and / or limit and / or avoid evaporation. a volatile fragrant material contained in a cosmetic composition. Other variants, advantages and properties of the invention will be highlighted in the description and the examples which follow.

Spiculisporic acid

The emulsion composition according to the invention comprises spiculisporic acid, also known as 4,5-dicarboxy-4-pentadecanolide, of formula:

It is known that spiculisporic acid, also called "Sp acid" in the rest of the text, is insoluble, at room temperature, in water and fatty substances but is soluble in ethanol.

In addition, it is known that spiculisporic acid can be solubilized at room temperature by salification.

More exactly, the acid Sp can form a mono-salt, a di-salt or a tri-salt.

The mono-salt corresponds to the product of neutralization of the carboxylic group bonded to the carbon atom in the C4 position of the acid Sp; the di-salt corresponds to the product of neutralization of the carboxylic groups bonded to the carbon atoms in the C4 and C5 positions of the Sp acid; tri-salt corresponds to the product of neutralization of the carboxylic groups bonded to the carbon atoms in the C4 and C5 positions of the Sp acid and to the salification of the lactone function.

In the emulsions according to the invention, the spiculisporic acid is in the form of a mono-salt, a di-salt, a tri-salt or a mixture of several salts of different degrees of salification. In a preferred embodiment, the spiculisporic acid is in the form of a mono-salt.

The amount of spiculisporic acid ranges from 0.1 to 15%, preferably from 0.5 to 10% and even more preferably from 1 to 8% by weight of spiculisporic acid relative to the total weight of the composition.

In particular, the amount of spiculisporic acid is 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5. , 2, 3, 4; 5; 6; 7; 8; 9; 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Base The emulsion according to the present invention comprises at least one base selected from amino acids and alkanolamines, said base being present in an amount capable of forming at least the monosel of spiculisporic acid.

The base used is a neutralizing base, that is to say it allows to neutralize the spiculisporic acid to form a salt of said acid.

The base (s) is / are thus used (s) in an amount capable of forming the mono-salt, the di-salt, the tri-salt or a mixture of several salts of spiculisporic acid with different degrees of salification .

In a preferred embodiment, the amount of base is selected to form the monosel of spiculisporic acid.

In the context of the invention, the base is chosen from amino acids and alkanolamines.

More particularly, the base may be chosen from the basic amino acids arginine, lysine, ornithine, citruline and histidine. Preferably, the amino acid is arginine.

The base may also be chosen from the following alkanolamines: mono-, di- and triethanolamines, isopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, and mixtures thereof. In a preferred manner, the alkanolamine is triethanolamine.

Advantageously, the amount of base is from 0.1 to 20%, preferably from 0.5 to 15 and even more preferably from 0.6 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Odorous volatile substances

The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises at least one volatile fragrant material.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile material" is intended to mean any compound capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile material is a volatile cosmetic compound which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10'3). at 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm). of Hg).

Advantageously, said volatile material is lipophilic, it is therefore present in the fatty phase of the emulsion. Among the fragrant volatile materials are essentially essential oils and perfumes. That is to say the different fragrance substances essential oils.

Essential oils

Essential oils are distinguished from vegetable oils by the fact that they can not be broken down by saponification into glycerol and fatty acid soap. Moreover, they are volatile.

According to the definition given in International Standard ISO 9235 and adopted by the European Pharmacopoeia Commission, an essential oil is a product generally of complex composition, obtained from a botanically defined plant raw material, either by steam distillation. water, either by dry distillation, or by extraction with liquid or gaseous solvents, or by a suitable mechanical process without heating (cold expression). The essential oil is most often separated from the aqueous phase by a physical process that does not entail a significant change in the composition. These essential oils can also be prepared by synthesis. The essential oil used according to the invention can be obtained from any plant material derived from the whole plant or from any part of said plant, such as, for example, leaves, stems, flowers, petals, seeds, fruits. , buds, roots, twigs of plants and / or whole plants. The essential oil used according to the invention may be prepared according to the techniques mentioned above and will preferably be obtained according to the conventional technique of steam distillation.

Among the essential oils that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of those obtained from the plants belonging to the following botanical families:

Abietaceous or coniferous Pinaceae; Amaryllidaceae; Anacardiaceae; Anonaceae: ylang; Apiaceae (eg umbelliferae): dill, angelica, coriander, sea fennel, carrot, parsley; Aracées; Aristolochiaceae; Asteraceae: achiliate, mugwort, chamomile, helichrysum; Betulaceae; Brassicaceae; Burseraceae incense;

Caryophyllaceae; Canellaceae; Césalpiniaceae: copaïfera (copahu); Chenopodaceae; Cistaceae: rockrose; Cyperaceae; Dipterocarpaceae; Ericaceae: wintergreen; Euphorbiaceae; Fabaceae; Geraniaceae: geranium; Guttifers; Hamamelidaceae; Hernandiaceae; Hypericaceae: St. John's wort; Iridaceae; Juglandaceae; Lamiaceae: thyme, oregano, shrimps, savory, basil, marjoram, mint, patchouli, lavender, sage, catnip, rosemary, hyssop, lemon balm, rosemary; Lauraceae: ravensara, laurel, rosewood, cinnamon, litsea; Liliaceae: garlic; Magnoliaceae: magnolia; Malvaceae; Meliaceae; Monimiaceae; Moraceae: hemp, hops; Myricaceae; Mysristicaceae: nutmeg; Myrtaceae: eucalyptus, tea tree, niaouli, cajeput, backousia, clove, myrtle; Oleaceae; Piperaceae: pepper; Pitosporaceae; Poaceae: lemongrass, lemongrass, vetiver; Polygonaceae; Renonculaceae; Rosaceae: roses; Rubiaceae; Rutaceae: all citrus; Salicaceae; Santalaceae: sandalwood; Saxifragaceae; Schisandracées; Styracaceae: benzoin; Thymelaceae: agarwood; Tilliaceae; Valerianaceae: valerian, nard; Verbenaceae: lantana, verbena; Violaceae; Zingiberaceae: galangal, turmeric, cardamom, ginger; Zygophyllaceae.

We can also mention the essential oils extracted from flowers (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, neroli), stems and leaves (patchouli, geranium, petit-grain), fruits (coriander, anise, cumin, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, orange), roots (angelica, celery, cardamom, iris, acore, ginger), wood (pine wood, sandalwood, guaiac, rose cedar, camphor), d herbs and grasses (tarragon, rosemary, basil, lemon grass, sage, thyme), needles and branches (spruce, fir, pine, dwarf pine), resins and balms (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh , oliban, opopanax). The essential oil preferentially used in the compositions of the invention is chosen from geranium essential oil, lemongrass essential oil, cedar essential oil, sweet orange essential oil, green oregano essential oil, lemongrass essential oil, lemon catnip essential oil, rosemary essential oil, mountain savory essential oil, laser siler essential oil (apiacee seeds or leaf ), marjoram essential oil, buplevre essential oil (asteraceae), deodorant yarrow essential oil, thyme essential oil, lemon balm essential oil, lemon essential oil, lemon essential oil eucalyptus essential oil, especially radiata or globulus, green or red tangerine essential oil, clove essential oil, cinnamon essential oil, or mixtures thereof. Preferably, it is selected from geranium essential oil, sweet orange essential oil and green oregano essential oil.

The amount of essential oil ranges from 0.0001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 10%, advantageously from 0.01% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Geranium essential oil

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises geranium essential oil.

Geranium is a herbaceous plant belonging to the family Geraniaceae. Geranium essential oil is mainly available under 2 varieties, namely Pelargonium roseum asperum CV Bourbon and Pelargonium roseum asperum CV North Africa (Egypt).

Their INCI name is identical, namely Pelargonium graveolens. Thus, we also speak of pelargonium essential oil. In this text, the terms "geranium essential oil" and "pelargonium essential oil" are used without distinction of meaning. Geranium essential oil consists essentially of the combination of 3 monoterpenols, namely citronellol (18 to 32%), geraniol (8 to 20%) and linalool (1.8 to 11%), as well as corresponding terpene esters. Geranium essential oil is prepared by conventional distillation by steam distillation from geranium leaves and stems. Steam training corresponds to the vaporization, in the presence of water vapor, of a substance that is not very miscible with water. The raw material is brought into the presence of boiling water or water vapor in a still. The water vapor causes the essential oil vapor which is condensed in the refrigerant to be recovered in liquid phase in a florentine (or essencier) vase where the essential oil is separated from the water by decantation. The aqueous distillate which persists in steam distillation after the separation of the essential oil is called "aromatic water" or "hydrosol" or "floral distilled water". As an example of geranium essential oil according to the present invention, mention may be made of that marketed by Elixens under the name PELARGONIUM GRAVEOLENS FLOWER OIL®.

Lemongrass essential oil

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises lemongrass essential oil.

Lemongrass is a large grass, native to India and Southeast Asia that can grow to 1.50 meters tall. It is composed of narrow, lanceolate leaves whose peduncles look like branches. Its scent, recalling the smell of lemon, is at the origin of the name of the plant. This tropical plant, native to India and Sri Lanka, also grows in Africa, South America, Central America and Madagascar. Its essential oil is obtained by distillation of chopped leaves that are harvested several times a year.

This distillation is carried out without the addition of water or water vapor in a closed chamber designed for the liquid to be recovered in its lower part. As an example of lemongrass essential oil according to the present invention, mention may be made of that marketed by Elixens under the name CYMBOPOGON FLEXUOSUS OIL®.

Sweet orange essential oil

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises sweet orange essential oil. Orange is the fruit of the orange tree (Citrus sinensis), which belongs to the family Rutaceae. The essential oil of sweet orange is preferably obtained by expression (pressing and scraping) orange zest. The sweet orange essential oil has the INCI name: CITRUS AURANTIUM DULCIS PEEL OIL.

As essential oil of sweet orange, mention may be made of the product CITRUS AURANTIUM DULCIS PEEL OIL marketed by the company ELIXENS.

This method of obtaining generally only applies to citrus fruits (Citrus spp.) By mechanical processes at ambient temperature. The principle of the method is as follows: the zests are dilacerated and the contents of the secretory sacs that have been ruptured are recovered by a physical process. The conventional method consists in exerting under a stream of water an abrasive action on the entire surface of the fruit. After removal of solid waste, the essential oil is separated from the aqueous phase by centrifugation. Most industrial plants actually allow the simultaneous or sequential recovery of fruit juice and essential oil.

Green oregano essential oil

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises essential oil of green oregano. The green oregano essential oil, Origanum heracleoticum L., is extracted from flowering aerial parts and consists mainly of Phenols: carvacrol, thymol and Monoterpenes: para-cymene and gamma-terpinene.

This essential oil is recommended for the treatment of dandruff conditions. It is anti-infectious with a broad spectrum of action: antibacterial, antiviral, antifungal and very powerful antiparasitic. It provides a general tonic effect and also has immunostimulant properties, but also appetizers and digestive. As an example of essential oil of green oregano according to the present invention, mention may be made of that marketed by Elixens under the name ORIGANUM HERACLEOTICUM FLOWER OIL®.

Cedar essential oil

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises cedar essential oil.

Cedar is a conifer (Cedrus) of the Pinaceae family. The essential oil of cedar is preferably obtained by training with water vapor, method explained previously. The essential oil of cedar is INCI: CEDRUS ATLANTICA WOOD OIL. As an example of cedar essential oil according to the present invention, mention may be made of that marketed by Elixens under the name CEDRUS ATLANTICA WOOD OIL®.

Lemon catnip essential oil

According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises lemon catnip essential oil (Nepeta cataria L. citriodora BECK). Such an essential oil suitable for the invention can be obtained by extraction by steam distillation from the flowering tops. In particular, a lemon catnip essential oil comprises, principally, a mixture of monoterpenols, monoterpenals and terpenes.

Rosemary essential oil

According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises rosemary essential oil.

An essential oil of rosemary (Rosmarinum Offlcinalis Chemotype Cineole or Rosmarinum Officinalis 'pyramidalis') suitable for the invention can be obtained by extraction by steam distillation from the leaves.

An essential oil of North African-type rosemary mainly comprises a mixture of terpene oxides, monoterpenones, monoterpenes, monoterpenols, sesquiterpenes, terpene esters, as well as traces of verbenone, terpinolene, γ-terpinene , linalool, and para-cymene.

Mountain savory essential oil

According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises mountain savory essential oil.

An essential oil of mountain savory (Satureja montana L., Satureja montana L. ssp montana) suitable for the invention can be obtained by extraction of the plant and flowers by steam distillation. A mountain savory essential oil comprises, principally, a mixture of phenols, monoterpenes, sesquiterpenes, terpene oxides, monoterpenols.

Essential oil of thyme

According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises essential oil of thyme.

An essential thyme oil (Thymus vulgaris CT thymol) suitable for the invention can be obtained by steam distillation of the flower heads of the plant. In particular, an essential thyme thymol oil mainly comprises phenols (thymol and carvacrol) and alcohols (terpinene and borneol)

Melissa essential oil

According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises melissa essential oil.

An essential oil of Melissa (Melissa officinalis L.) suitable for the invention can be obtained by extraction of the aerial parts by steam distillation. The aerial parts are preferentially harvested from June to September. In particular, a Melissa essential oil comprises, principally, a mixture of aldehydes, sesquiterpenes, monoterpenes, terpene esters, alcohols, and non-volatile compounds.

Clove essential oil

According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises clove essential oil.

An essential oil of clove (Eugenia caryophyllus or E. aromatica Syzygium aromaticum) suitable for the invention may be obtained by extraction by steam distillation from the nail (flower bud). In particular, an essential oil of clove mainly comprises a mixture of phenol, sesquiterpenes and esters.

Cinnamon essential oil

According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises cinnamon essential oil.

An essential oil of cinnamon (Cinnamomum cassia) suitable for the invention can be obtained by steam distillation of the bark of the tree. In particular, an essential oil of cinnamon comprises, mainly an aromatic aldehyde, cinnamaldehyde as well as phenols such as chavicol and isoeugenol.

Lemon essential oil

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises lemon essential oil.

An essential oil of lemon (Citrus limonum L.) is preferably obtained by expression (pressing and scraping) lemon zest.

Eucalyptus essential oil

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises eucalyptus essential oil, preferably radiata or globulus.

A eucalyptus essential oil (Eucalyptus radiata LABILL) suitable for the invention can be obtained by steam distillation of the leaves of the tree.

Green or red tangerine essential oil

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises green or red mandarin essential oil.

An essential oil of green mandarin (Citrus reticulata blanco) is preferably obtained by expression (pressing and scraping) mandarin zest

Perfumes

The volatile fragrant material may also be chosen from perfuming substances, or perfumes, different from essential oils.

Fragrances are compositions containing in particular the raw materials described in S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Chemicals (Montclair, NJ, 1969), in S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin (Elizabeth, NJ, 1960) and in "Flavor and Fragrance Materials - 1991 ", Allured Publishing Co. Wheaton, 111.

It can also be natural products, absolutes, resinoids, resins, concretes, and / or synthetic products (terpene or sesquiterpenic hydrocarbons, alcohols, phenols, aldehydes, ketones, ethers, acids, esters, nitriles, peroxides, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or cyclic).

Examples of perfuming substances are in particular: geraniol, geranyl acetate, farnesol, bomeol, bomyl acetate, linalool, linalyl acetate, linalyl propionate, linalyl butyrate, tetrahydrolinalol citronellol, citronellyl acetate, citronellyl formate, citronellyl propionate, dihydromyrcenol, dihydromyrcenyl acetate, tetrahydromyrcenol, terpineol, terpinyl acetate, nopol, nopyl acetate, glycerol, benzyl alcohol, benzyl acetate, benzyl salicylate, amyl salicylate, dimethylbenzyl-carbinol, trichloromethylphenylcarbinyl acetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, isononyl acetate, vettiveryl acetate, vetiferol, alpha-hexylcinnamaldehyde, 2 methyl-3- (p-tert-butylphenyl) propanal, the 2-methyl-3- (p-isopropylphenyl) propanal, 3- (p-tert-butylphenyl) propanal, 2,4-dimethylcyclohex-3-enylcarboxaldehyde, tricyclodecenyl acetate, tricyclodecenyl propionate, 4- (4-hydroxy-4-methylpentyl) -3-cyclohexenecarboxaldehyde, 4- (4-methyl-3-pentenyl) -3-cyclohexenecarboxaldehyde, 4-acetoxy-3-pentyl-tetrahydropyran, 3-carboxymethyl- 2-pentylcyclopentane, 2-n-4-heptylcyclopentanone, 3-methyl-2-pentyl-2-cyclopentenone, menthone, carvone, tagetone, geranyl acetone, n-decanal, n-dodecanal, 9-decenol-1, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, phenylacetaldehyde dimethylacetal, phenylacetaldehyde diethylacetal, geranonitrile, citronellonitrile, cyroyl acetate, 3-isocamphylcyclohexanol, cedaryl methyl ether, isolongifolanone, hatepinonitrile, hawthorn, heliotropine, coumarin, eugenol, vanillin, diphenyl ether, citral, citronellal, hydroxyl ycitronellal, damascone, ionones, methylionones, isomethylionones, solanone, irones, cis-3-hexenol and its esters, musks-indanes, musks-tetralines, musks-isochromanes, macrocyclic ketones, musks-macrolactones, aliphatic musks, ethylene brassylate, rose essence and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, a mixture of different perfuming substances is used which generate in common a pleasant note for the user.

Perfume substances should preferably be chosen so that they produce notes (head, heart and base) in the following families: citrus fruits, aromatics, floral notes, spices, woody plants, gourmands, chyprés, ferns, leather and musks.

The perfuming substance (s) is / are generally present in a content of at least 0.01% by weight, preferably at most 30% by weight, in particular from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 10%, and particularly from 0.1% to 5% and especially from 0.3% to 5% relative to the total weight of the composition.

Physiologically acceptable medium

In addition to the compounds indicated above, a composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium.

By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium which is particularly suitable for the application of a composition of the invention to the skin and / or the lips, such as water, oils or organic solvents commonly used in the cosmetic compositions.

The physiologically acceptable medium (tolerability, toxicology and acceptable touch) is generally adapted to the nature of the medium to which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance under which the composition is to be packaged.

Fatty phase

The composition according to the invention may comprise a fatty phase.

The composition may contain up to 60% by weight of fatty phase relative to the total weight of the composition. The compositions, even including a high fat phase level can lead to stable, homogeneous and resistant films.

The fatty phase of the composition according to the invention comprises all liposoluble or lipodispersible compounds present in the composition, and in particular liquid fatty substances at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure or oils (which form the oily phase). ).

The oils present in the composition according to the invention may be silicone or hydrocarbon-based.

By silicone oil (or silicone oil) is meant an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular containing Si-O groups.

As silicone oils, mention may be made, for example, of volatile silicone oils such as cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name: cyclomethicone), such as cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodeca-methylcyclohexasiloxane; linear silicones such as heptamethylhexyl-trisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl-disiloxane, octamethyl-trisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane; non-volatile silicone oils such as polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and phenylated polymethylsiloxanes such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, and mixtures thereof.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile" is intended to mean a compound capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 '). 3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg); mm Hg).

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen, nitrogen, and not containing a silicon or fluorine atom; it may contain ester, ether, amine or amide groups.

As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as squalane, liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, jojoba, babassu, sunflower, olive, coconut, brazil nut, marula, maize, soya, squash, Grapes, flax, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, coriander, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those marketed by Stearineries Dubois or those marketed under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, shea butter oil; esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R1COOR2 and R10R2 in which R1 represents the residue of a fatty acid or of a fatty alcohol containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as, for example, purcellin oil, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythritol tetraisostearate; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, volatile or non-volatile, and their derivatives, such as branched alkanes containing from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, for example the isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins) in C8- C18 such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, such as the isoparaffins sold under the trade names Isopar by Exxon Chemical or the oils sold under the trade names Permethyl by the company Presperse, isohexadecane and isododecane marketed by the company INEOS; as well as petroleum jelly and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam® oil; volatile linear alkanes comprising 7 to 17 carbon atoms such as undecane, tridecane; fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature and have 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol or oleic alcohol; and - their mixtures.

Mention may in particular be made of the following oils: esters derived from the reaction of at least one fatty acid comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 26 carbon atoms and better still from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably from 6 to 16 carbon atoms and from at least one alcohol comprising from 1 to 17 carbon atoms and more preferably from 3 to 15 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl 2-hexyl caprate / caprylate (or octyl caprate / caprylate), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl neopentanoate isononyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, esters of lactic acid and of fatty alcohols comprising 12 or 13 carbon atoms, dicaprylyl carbonate, such as that marketed under the name CETIOL CC by COGNIS company, - fatty acid ethers comprising from 6 to 20 carbon atoms such as dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE de Cognis), - glycerol ethers comprising from 6 to 12 carbon atoms such as 2-ethyl hexyl ether glycerol (INCI name: ethylhexylglycerin) such as Sensiva SC 50 from Schulke & Mayr GmbH; octydodecanol; alkanes, such as those described in the patent applications of Cognis WO 2007/068371, or WO2008 / 155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes and differing from at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut oil or palm oil. By way of example of linear alkanes which are suitable for the invention, mention may be made of n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (Cil), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the volatile linear alkane is selected from n-nonane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred mode, mention may be made of the mixtures of n-undecane (Cil) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of Application WO2008 / 155059 from Cognis; the polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and of diol, for instance the polyesters of dilinoleic acid and of diol marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast and in particular the polymer bearing the name INCI dilinoleic acid / propanediol copolymer; and - their mixtures.

The amount of fatty phase in the composition of the invention may range from 0.1% to 70% by weight, preferably from 5% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Aqueous phase Water may be present in a total content ranging from 30 to 90%, preferably 40 to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 30%, preferably at least 40% by weight of water, preferably at least 50% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to water, at least one water-soluble solvent. The water used in the composition of the invention may be demineralized pure water but also mineral water and / or thermal water and / or seawater, that is to say say that the water of the composition may be partly or wholly constituted by a water chosen from mineral waters, thermal waters, sea water and their mixtures. In general, a mineral water is suitable for consumption, which is not always the case of a thermal water. Each of these waters contains, inter alia, solubilized minerals and / or trace elements. These waters are known to be used for purposes of specific treatment according to the particular trace elements and minerals they contain, such as hydration and desensitization of the skin or the treatment of certain dermatoses. By mineral or thermal waters, not only natural mineral or thermal waters will be designated, but also natural mineral or thermal waters enriched with mineral constituents and / or additional trace elements, as well as mineral and / or oligo-containing aqueous solutions. -Elements prepared from purified water (demineralized or distilled). A natural thermal or mineral water used according to the invention may, for example, be selected from Vittel water, the waters of the Vichy basin, Uriage water, Roche Posay water, water of the Bourboule, the water of Enghien-les-Bains, the water of Saint Gervais-les-Bains, the water of Néris-les-Bains, the water of Allevar-les-Bains, the water of Digne, the water of Maizières, the water of Neyrac-les-Bains, the water of Lons-le-Saunier, the Good Waters, the water of Rochefort, the water of Saint Christau, the water of Fumes and water from Tercis-les-Bains, Avene water.

The aqueous phase constitutes the continuous phase of the composition.

By aqueous continuous phase composition is meant that the composition has a conductivity, measured at 25 ° C., greater than or equal to 23 μS / cm (microSiemens / cm), the conductivity being measured, for example using a conductivity meter. MPC227 from Mettler Toledo and an Inlab730 conductivity cell. The measuring cell is immersed in the composition, so as to eliminate air bubbles that may form between the 2 electrodes of the cell. The reading of the conductivity is made as soon as the value of the conductivity meter is stabilized. An average is performed on at least 3 successive measurements.

By "water-soluble solvent" is meant in the present invention a liquid compound at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure).

The water-soluble solvents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention can moreover be volatile.

Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition in accordance with the invention, mention may be made in particular of lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms. carbon such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, C3 and C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes, or polyols such as for example glycerin.

In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 5%, preferably less than 4%, preferably less than 3%, preferably less than 1% by weight of glycol (s) and / or polyol (s) relative to the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is advantageously devoid of glycols and / or polyol (s).

The aqueous phase (water and optionally the solvent miscible with water) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 99.9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from from 60% to 90% by weight.

Thickening agent

A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one hydrophilic gelling agent as a thickener.

Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agents are polymeric and advantageously they are natural or of natural origin.

For the purposes of the invention, the expression "of natural origin" means polymeric gelling agents obtained by modifying natural polymeric gelling agents.

These gelling agents may be particulate or non-particulate.

More specifically, these gelling agents fall within the category of polysaccharides.

Advantageously, the polysaccharides may be chosen from carrageenans, in particular kappa-carrageenan, gellan gum, agar-agar, xanthan gum, and alginate-based compounds, in particular alginate. sodium, saroglucan gum, guar gum, inulin, pullulan, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is xanthan gum.

Depending on the intended application, a composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more filler (s) conventionally used in the care and / or make-up compositions, dyestuffs, in particular pigments, nacres, particles with a metallic sheen.

Of course those skilled in the art will choose these additives so that they are compatible with the other components of the composition.

Charge

A composition according to the invention may furthermore comprise one or more filler (s) conventionally used in the care and / or make-up compositions, and various of the pigments, nacres and particles with a metallic sheen.

These fillers are colorless or solid white particles of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition.

Of mineral or organic nature, natural or synthetic, they allow to confer the composition containing softness, dullness and runiformity makeup. In addition, these fillers advantageously make it possible to fight against various aggressions such as sebum or sweat. As an illustration of these fillers, mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, ροΐγ-β-alanine and polyethylene powders, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon®), lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industry), acrylic acid copolymers, silicone resin microbeads (Toshiba Tospearls®) for example), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocyanate, hydroxyapatite, polyurethane powders, composite fillers, hollow silica microspheres, and glass or plastic microcapsules. ceramic. It is also possible to use particles, which are in the form of portions of hollow spheres, as described in patent applications JP-2003 128 788 and JP-2000 191 789.

In particular, such fillers may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content of between 0.01% and 25% by weight, in particular between 0.1% and 20% by weight, in particular between 1% and 10%, weight, relative to the total weight of the composition

nacres

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one mother-of-pearl.

By "nacres", it is necessary to include colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized, and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.

A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0% to 15% by weight of nacres, relative to the total weight of said composition.

The nacres can be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs.

Mention may also be made, by way of example of nacres, of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.

Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of the nacres Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome (based on mica) marketed by ENGELHARD, the nacres Timiron marketed by Merck, nacres based on mica Prestige marketed by the company Eckart and nacres based on Sunshine synthetic mica sold by the company Sun Chemical.

The nacres may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection.

Advantageously, the nacres according to the invention are micas coated with titanium dioxide or iron oxide and bismuth oxychloride.

pigments

As stated above, a composition may further contain pigments.

These pigments may be inorganic pigments in particular as defined above. These pigments can also be organic pigments.

By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the organic pigment chapter. The organic pigment may especially be chosen from nitroso compounds, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

The organic pigment (s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanine, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, and blue pigments codified in the formula. Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole derivatives, phenolic as they are t described in patent FR 2 679 771.

These pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core at least partially covered with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixation of organic pigments on the core.

The pigment can also be a lacquer. By lacquer is meant insolubilized dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium borosilicate.

Among the organic dyes, mention may be made of cochineal carmine. Mention may also be made of the products known under the following names: D & C Red 21 (CI 45,380), D & C Orange 5 (CI 45,370), D & C Red 27 (CI 45,410), D & C Orange 10 (CI 45,425), D & C Red 3 (CI 45,430), D & C Red 4 (CI 15,510), D & C Red 33 (CI 17,200), D & C Yellow 5 (CI 19,140), D & C Yellow 6 (CI 15,985), D & C Green (CI 61,570), D & C Yellow 10 (CI 77,002), D & C Green 3 (CI 42,053), D & C Blue 1 ( CI 42,090). As examples of lacquers, mention may be made of the product known under the name D & C Red 7 (CI 15 850: 1).

Additional dispersing agent

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may further comprise an additional dispersing agent.

Such a dispersing agent may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several of them.

According to a particular embodiment, a dispersing agent according to the invention is an additional surfactant.

Active

For a particular care application, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one active ingredient.

Other active agents that can be used in the composition of the invention include, for example, vitamins, UV filters, moisturizing agents and mixtures thereof.

The active agent (s) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, especially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, or even from 1% to 8% by weight, relative to total weight of said composition.

It is routine for those skilled in the art to adjust the nature and quantity of the additives present in the compositions according to the invention, so that the desired cosmetic properties thereof are not not affected.

According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a makeup base composition for makeup.

According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a foundation.

Such compositions are especially prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

Throughout the description, including the claims, the phrase "having one" should be understood as being synonymous with "having at least one", unless the opposite is specified.

Expressions "between ... and ..." and "from ... to ..." must be understood as inclusive terms unless otherwise specified. The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples presented hereinafter. Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities indicated are expressed as a percentage by mass.

EXAMPLES

In the following tables, the amount of each compound is given as a percentage by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preparation of compositions

The compositions are prepared with Rayneri according to the following protocol: the water is weighed in the preparation beaker, the polymer or surfactant is introduced with mechanical stirring, if necessary the base, in particular arginine is added with mechanical stirring , the powders dissolve as the solution becomes totally translucent after stirring for 5 minutes, the oil (s) are introduced (s), still with stirring and stirring is maintained for 10 minutes at 700.degree. 1000 RPM depending on the viscosity of the medium.

Board

Film preparation and experimental evaluation method

The experimental method of evaluation is a thin film evaporation test

The protocol is as follows: The emulsion is applied to a hydrophobic filter using a film puller which is in the form of a mechanical arm which sweeps a flat surface at a controlled rate to form a film. controlled thickness of 50 microns. The film is then allowed to evaporate under controlled airflow (Sorbonne). Samples at different times were taken to determine the amount of essential oil remaining on the film by a solvent extraction process and detection by UV Vis spectroscopy. Due to the complexity of the composition of the essential oil of green oregano, only the major component carvarcol (approximately 50%) was dosed.

After drying for 3 hours, the remaining amount of green oregano essential oil is 2 times greater when the formed film has been prepared from spiculisporic acid.

The results showed that spiculisporic acid increases by a factor of 2 the remaining amount of Oregano essential oil after a drying time of 3 hours compared to coco-glucoside (nonionic surfactant) or crosslinked polymer Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylates "Pemulen TRI".

Claims (15)

1. Particularly cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an oily phase, an aqueous phase characterized in that the said composition comprises: from 0.1 to 15%, preferably from 0.5 at 10% and even more preferably from 1 to 8% by weight of spiculisporic acid relative to the total weight of the composition, - at least one base selected from amino acids and alkanolamines in an amount capable of forming at least the monosel of spiculisporic acid, from 0.0001% to 30% of at least one volatile volatile matter chosen from essential oils and perfuming substances. 2. Composition according to the preceding claim wherein the base is an amino acid selected from arginine, lysine, ornithine, citruline and histidine, preferably arginine. 3. Composition according to the preceding claim wherein the base is an alkanolamine selected from mono-, di-, triethanolamines, isopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propoanol, preferably triethanolamine. 4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims wherein the amount of base varies from 0.1 to 20%, preferably from 0.5 to 15 and even more preferably from 0.6 to 10% by weight relative to to the total weight of the composition. 5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims wherein the amount of base is selected to form the monosel of spiculisporic acid. 6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims wherein the volatile fragrant material is an essential oil. 7. Composition according to the preceding claim characterized in that the essential oil is selected from geranium essential oil, lemongrass essential oil, cedar essential oil, sweet orange essential oil, green oregano essential oil, lemongrass essential oil, lemon catnip essential oil, rosemary essential oil, mountain savory essential oil, laser siler essential oil, essential oil marjoram, buplevre essential oil, deodorant yarrow essential oil, thyme essential oil, lemon balm essential oil, lemon essential oil, eucalyptus essential oil, especially radiata or globulus, green or red tangerine essential oil, clove essential oil, cinnamon essential oil, or mixtures thereof, preferably geranium essential oil, hui the essential of sweet orange and the essential oil of green oregano. 8. Composition according to the preceding claim wherein the amount of essential oil varies from 0.0001% to 20%, preferably from 0.001% to 10%, preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the product. composition. 9. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 5 characterized in that the volatile material is a perfume different from an essential oil. 10. Composition according to the preceding claim wherein the perfuming substance (s) is / are present in a content of at least 0.01% by weight, preferably at most 30% by weight, in particular from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 10% by weight, particularly from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and in particular from 0.3% to 5% by weight, to the total weight of the composition. 11. Composition according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that it comprises at least one hydrophilic gelling agent as a thickener. 12. Composition according to the preceding claim wherein the hydrophilic gelling agent is xanthan gum. 13. Use of the composition according to one of the preceding claims as a product for makeup, care, hygiene and / or cleaning of keratin materials, in particular skin or hair. 14. Non-therapeutic cosmetic, makeup, care, hygiene and / or cleaning process comprising a step of applying the composition according to one of claims 1 to 12 on said keratin materials. 15. Use of spiculisporic acid in form partially or completely neutralized with a base selected from amino acids and alkanolamines to prevent and / or limit and / or avoid the evaporation of volatile fragrance material contained in a cosmetic composition.