FR2952534A1 - Anhydrous composition, useful e.g. for perfuming keratin material/garments, comprises perfuming substance, volatile alcohol, volatile silicone oil and/or volatile hydrocarbon oil, and cationic vinylpyrrolidone polymer - Google Patents

Abstract

Anhydrous perfume composition comprises: in a medium, (a) at least 1 wt.% of at least one perfuming substance, (b) at least 40 wt.% of volatile alcohol, volatile silicone oil, and/or volatile hydrocarbon oil; (c) at least one cationic vinylpyrrolidone polymer; and optionally water.

Description

Perfuming composition comprising at least one cationic vinylpyrrolidone polymer

The invention relates to a perfuming composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium: a) at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one perfume substance; b) at least 40% by weight of a volatile alcohol and / or a volatile silicone oil and / or a volatile hydrocarbon oil, c) at least one cationic vinylpyrrolidone polymer; d) and possibly water.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the perfuming of human keratin materials or a garment, comprising the application to said keratin materials or said garment of the composition as defined above.

We know that a perfume is the combination of different odorous substances that evaporate at different times. Each perfume has what is known as a "top note" which is the scent diffusing first when applying the perfume or when opening the container containing it, a "heart or body note" which corresponds to the complete perfume (emission for a few hours after the "top note") and a "bottom note" which is the most persistent odor (emission for several hours after the "heart note"). The persistence of the heart note and the base note corresponds to the persistence of the perfume.

The human being has always sought to perfume and perfume the objects that surround him or the places in which he is, and this, both to mask strong odors and / or unpleasant than to give good odour.

Among the important criteria of quality that one seeks in the perfuming products, on the one hand represent the persistence of the perfume namely the persistence of the note of heart and the base note of the perfume on the skin and on the other hand the transparency of the formulation as well as its fluidity for aesthetic reasons and comfort of application.

The improvement of the persistence of perfumes has been the subject of numerous studies. It has been proposed in various patents and patent applications of the prior art 40 to use different types of polymers generally in perfume hydroalcoholic solutions to improve perfume resistance.

In the application WO2004 / 098556, it has been proposed to use in a hydroalcoholic support, acrylic homo or copolymers such as Carbomer, 45 Pemulen or polyacryloyldimethyltaurate homopolymers or copolymers (AMPS) such as HOSTACERIN AMP or polymers of ethylene oxide to concentrate the perfume molecules on a smaller surface and to expand the diffusion of said perfume.

In FR2747306, it has been proposed to use a nonionic and non-cyclic hydrocarbon polymer comprising anhydroglucose and / or ethylene units in a perfume-containing composition for fixing and / or prolonged release of this perfume.

In the patent EP804924, it has been proposed to use an alkyl ether polysaccharide comprising at least two different units and at least one hydroxyl group substituted by a saturated C 1 -C 24 alkyl chain, in particular the ethylguar of degree of substitution in ethyl of at least 2 as commercial products AQUALON AQ-D3360-L and AQ-3360-H to increase the hold of a perfume.

In US Pat. No. 6,172,037 it has been proposed to increase the persistence of a perfume in an aqueous-alcoholic solution with a combination of a polyvinylpyrrolidone and a hydroxypropylcellulose.

In application WO2005 / 070371, it has also been proposed to use the combination of a carboxylated acrylate / octacrylamide copolymer and a hydrolysed jojoba ester in an alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic composition in order to reduce the concentration of perfume, d to improve its resistance to the skin and its persistence in water or sweat.

Although these polymers as stated previously in the documents of the prior art make it possible to increase the persistence of the perfume, they generally have the disadvantage of substantially increasing the viscosity of the alcoholic lotions and / or rendering them cloudy, opalescent and / or to form precipitates in the solutions rendering them unsightly and unfit for consumption.

In US Pat. No. 6,670,3011, a controlled release system of perfume is proposed by means of a film formed from a permeable, continuous, non-porous, monophasic and emulsifier-free polymer of a solvent such as water, water and water. ethanol or a water / ethanol mixture and preferably in the presence of a gelling agent and polypropylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol having a number of propylene oxide units ranging from 2 to 30. The polymer film acts as a barrier for the perfume which diffuses more slowly towards the surrounding external environment Among the polymers used are mentioned polymers of the type LUVISKOL VA 55E, ULTRAHOLD 8, LUVIQUAT FC or HM, ADVANTAGE PLUS, GAFQUAT 734N or 755N, DIAFORMERS, GAFQUAT HS-100 , OMNIREZ 2000. This technology has the disadvantage of depositing on the skin a film weighing the texture of the composition on the skin, uncomfortable for the consumer during the day.

There remains the need to find new types of polymers to effectively increase the persistence of the perfume in a wide range of clear and fluid perfuming products such as eau de toilette, eau de parfum without the drawbacks mentioned above, namely without affecting the transparency, the stability, the viscosity of the perfuming composition and without harming the consumer's comfort such as smell or touch.

The Applicant has surprisingly discovered that this objective could be achieved by using a cationic vinylpyrrolidone polymer in a perfuming composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium: a) at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of less a perfume substance; b) at least 40% by weight of a volatile alcohol and / or volatile hydrocarbon oil and / or a volatile silicone oil,

This discovery is the basis of the invention.

The invention relates to a perfuming composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium: a) at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one perfume substance; b) at least 40% by weight of a volatile alcohol and / or a volatile silicone oil b) at least 40% by weight of a volatile alcohol and / or a volatile silicone oil and / or a volatile hydrocarbon oil; c) at least one cationic vinylpyrrolidone polymer d) and optionally water.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the perfuming of human keratin materials or a garment, comprising the application to said keratin materials or said garment of the composition as defined above. "Perfuming substance" means any fragrance or aroma likely to give off a pleasant odor.

By "human keratin materials" is meant the skin (face, body, lips, inner eyelids), scalp, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails, mucous membranes.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cationic polymer" denotes any polymer containing cationic groups and / or ionizable groups in cationic groups.

For the purpose of the present invention, the term "vinylpyrrolidone polymer" denotes any polymer containing vinylpyrrolidone groups of structure:

CH 2 H 2 "" 40 "Cosmetically acceptable medium" in the composition of the invention means a non-toxic medium that can be applied to the skin, the lips, the nails or the hair, the eyelashes and the eyebrows. of human beings.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile substance" means any substance capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the keratin fiber in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. Said substance is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular at a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, especially having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mmHg) , in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

PERFUMING SUBSTANCES

Fragrances are compositions containing in particular the raw materials described in S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Chemicals (Montclair, NJ, 1969), in S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin (Elizabeth, NJ, 1960) and in " Flavor and Fragrance Materials - 1991 ", Allured Publishing Co. Wheaton, III.

It can be natural products (essential oils, absolutes, resinoids, resins, concretes) and / or synthetic (terpene or sesquiterpenic hydrocarbons, alcohols, phenols, aldehydes, ketones, ethers, acids, esters, nitriles, peroxides, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or cyclic).

According to the definition given in International Standard ISO 9235 and adopted by the European Pharmacopoeia Commission, an essential oil is a fragrant product generally of complex composition, obtained from a botanically defined plant raw material, either by steam distillation of water, either by dry distillation or by a suitable mechanical process without heating (cold expression). The essential oil is most often separated from the aqueous phase by a physical process that does not entail a significant change in the composition.

Modes of obtaining essential oils The choice of the technique depends mainly on the raw material: its original state and its characteristics, its nature proper. The yield "essential oil / vegetable raw material" can be extremely variable according to the plants: 15 ppm to more than 20%. This choice conditions the characteristics of the essential oil, in particular viscosity, color, solubility, volatility, enrichment or depletion in certain constituents.

Training with water vapor

Steam training corresponds to the vaporization in the presence of water vapor of a substance that is not very miscible with water. The raw material is brought into the presence of boiling water or water vapor in a still. The water vapor causes the essential oil vapor which is condensed in the refrigerant to be recovered in liquid phase in a florentine (or essencier) vase where the essential oil is separated from the water by decantation. The aqueous distillate which remains in steam distillation after the separation of the essential oil is called "aromatic water or" hydrosol "or" floral distilled water ".

Dry distillation

The essential oil is obtained by distillation of wood, bark or roots, without the addition of water or water vapor in a closed chamber designed for the liquid to be recovered in its lower part. Cade oil is the best-known example of this method of production. Cold expression

This method of production only applies to citrus fruits (Citrus spp.) By mechanical processes at ambient temperature. The principle of the method is the following: the zests are dilacerated and the contents of the secretory sacs that have been ruptured are recovered by a physical process. The conventional method consists in exerting under a stream of water an abrasive action on the entire surface of the fruit. After removal of solid waste, the essential oil is separated from the aqueous phase by centrifugation. Most industrial facilities allow the simultaneous or sequential recovery of fruit juice and essential oil.

Physico-chemical characters.

Essential oils are generally volatile and liquid at room temperature, which differentiates them from so-called fixed oils. They are more or less colored and their density is generally lower than that of water. They have a high refractive index and most deflect polarized light. They are liposoluble and soluble in the usual organic solvents, entrainable with water vapor, very little soluble in water.

Among the essential oils that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of those obtained from the plants belonging to the following botanical families:

35 Abietaceous or Pinaceae: conifers Amaryllidaceae Anacardiaceae Anonaceae: ylang ylang Apiaceae (for example umbelliferae): dill, angelica, coriander, crista 40 marine, carrot, parsley Araceae Aristolochiaceae Asteraceae: achilea, mugwort, chamomile, helichryse Betulaceae 45 Brassicaceae Burseraceae: incense Caryophyllaceae Canellaceae Césalpiniaceae: Copaïfera (copahu) 50 Chenopodaceae 10 Cistaceae: rockrose Cyperaceae Dipérocarpacées Ericaceae: wintergreen Euphorbiaceae Fabaceae Geraniaceae: geranium Guttifères Hamamelidaceae Hernandiaceae Hypericaceae: St. John's wort Iridaceae Juglandaceae Lamiaceae: thyme, oregano, shrimps, savory, basil, marjoram, mint , patchouli, lavender, sage, catnip, rosemary, hyssop, lemon balm, rosemary Lauraceae: ravensara, laurel, rosewood, cinnamon, bedsea Liliaceae: garlic Magnoliaceae: magnolia Malvaceae 20 Meliaceae Moniiacea Moraceae: hemp, hops M yricacées Mysristicaceae: nutmeg 25 Myrtaceae: eucalyptus, tea tree, niaouli, cajeput, backousia, clove, myrtle Oléacées Piperaceae: pepper Pittosporaceae Poaceae: lemongrass, lemongrass, vetiver 30 Polygonaceae Renonculaceae Rosaceae: roses Rubiaceae Rutaceae: all citrus 35 Salicaceae Santalaceae: sandalwood Saxifragaceae Schisandraceae Styracaceae: benzoin 40 Thymelaceae: agarwood Valiaceraceae: Valerian, nicotine Verbenaceae: lantana, verbena Violaceae 45 Zingiberaceae: galanga, turmeric, cardamom, ginger Zygophyllaceae

We can also mention the essential oils extracted from flowers (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, yilang-ylang, neroli), stems and leaves (patchouli, geranium, 50 petit-grain), fruits (coriander, anise, caraway , juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, orange), roots (angelica, celery, cardamom, iris, acore, ginger), wood (pine wood, sandalwood, guaiac, rose cedar, camphor), herbs and grasses (tarragon, rosemary, basil, lemon grass, sage, thyme), needles and branches (spruce, fir, pine, dwarf pine), resins and balms (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, oliban, opopanax).

Examples of perfuming substances are in particular: geraniol, geranyl acetate, farnesol, borneol, bornyl acetate, linalool, linalyl acetate, linalyl propionate, linalyl butyrate, tetrahydrolinalol citronellol, citronellyl acetate, citronellyl formate, citronellyl propionate, dihydromyrcenol, dihydromyrcenyl acetate, tetrahydromyrcenol, terpineol, terpinyl acetate, nopol, nopyl acetate, glycerol, benzyl alcohol, benzyl acetate, benzyl salicylate, amyl salicylate, dimethylbenzyl carbinol, trichloromethylphenylcarbinyl acetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, isononyl acetate, vettiveryl acetate, vetoterol, alpha-hexylcinnamaldehyde, 2 methyl-3- (p-tert-butylphenyl) propanal, l 2-methyl-3- (p-isopropylphenyl) propanal, 3- (p-tert-butylphenyl) propanal, 2,4-dimethylcyclohex-3-enylcarboxaldehyde, tricyclodecenyl acetate, tricyclodecenyl propionate 4- (4-hydroxy-4-methylpentyl) -3-cyclohexenecarboxaldehyde, 4- (4-methyl-3-pentenyl) -3-cyclohexenecarboxaldehyde, 4-acetoxy-3-pentyl-tetrahydropyran, 3-carboxymethyl 2-pentylcyclopentane, 2-n-4-heptylcyclopentanone, 3-methyl-2-pentyl-2-cyclopentenone, menthone, carvone, tagetone, geranyl acetone, n-decanal, n-dodecanal, 9-decenol-1, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, phenylacetaldehyde dimethylacetal, phenylacetaldehyde diethylacetal, geranonitrile, citronellonitrile, cyroyl acetate, 3-isocamphylcyclohexanol, cedaryl methyl ether, isolongifolanone , aubepinonitrile, hawthorn, heliotropine, coumarin, eugenol, vanillin, diphenyl oxide, citral, citronellal, h hydroxycitronellal, damascone, ionones, methylionones, isomethylionones, solanone, irones, cis-3-hexenol and its esters, musk-indanes, musk-tetralines, muscsisochromanes, macrocyclic ketones, musks- macrolactones, ethylene brassylate and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, a mixture of different perfuming substances is used which generate in common a pleasant note for the user.

The fragrant substances should preferably be chosen so that they produce notes (head, heart and base) in the following families: hesperides, aromatics, floral notes spicy, woody greedy chypre, ferns leather . musks

The perfuming compositions of the invention preferably contain from 1% to 40% by weight of perfuming substance, better still from 2% to 30% by weight, in particular from 2% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight. of the composition.

CATIONIC VINYLPYRROLIDONE POLYMERS

The cationic vinylpyrrolidone polymers according to the invention may be chosen in particular from the following families of polymers

(1) vinylpyrrolidone / quaternized or non-quaternized dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers having the INCI name: POLYQUATERNIUM-11, such as the products sold under the trade name "GAFQUAT" by ISP, for example "GAFQUAT 440" "GAFQUAT 734 "Or" GAFQUAT 755 "by ISP; the product sold under the trade name "LUVIQUAT PQ 11 PN" by BASF; the product sold under the trade name "ORISTAR PQ 11" 20 by the company Orient Stars; the product sold under the trade name POLYQUAT 11 SL by the company SINON LION; the product sold under the trade name TRIQUAT 11 N-CC by the company Kemira Specialties; the products sold under the trade names "COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 937" by the company ISP. These polymers are described in detail in French Patents 2,077,143 and 2,393,573.

(2) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone acrylate or dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate with optionally vinylcaprolactam and optionally crosslinked, especially dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers having the INCI name: Vinyl CaprolactamNP / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, such as the product sold under the US Pat. denomination "GAFFIX VC 713" by the company ISP.

(3) vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyl dimethylamine copolymers having the INCI name: VP / DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer and sold in particular under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP.

(4) terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, dialkyl (C1-C4) aminoalkyl (C1-C4) methacrylamide and (C1-C30) alkyl (C1-C4) alkylammonium (C1-C4) alkyl methacrylamido salt, such that the "STYLEZE W10" or "STYLEZE W20" (INCI name: POLYQUATERNIUM 55).

(5) quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers having the INCI name: POLYQUATERNIUM-28 such as the product 45 sold under the name "GAFQUAT HS 100" by ISP,

(6) quaternary vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole polymers having the INCI name: POLYQUATERNIUM-16, such as, for example, the products sold under the names "LUVIQUAT EXCELLENCE", 50 "LUVIQUAT STYLE", "LUVIQUAT FC 550" and "LUVIQUAT FC 370"; By the company BASF;

(7) terpolymers of vinylimidazolium methosulphate, vinylpyrrolmidone and vinylcaprolactam having the INCI name: POLYQUATERNIUM-46 such as for example the product sold under the name "LUVIQUAT HOLD".

More particularly, the quaternary vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole polymers having the INCI name: POLYQUATERNIUM-16 and the terpolymers of vinylimidazolium methosulfate, vinylpyrrolmidone and vinylcaprolactam having the INCI name: POLYQUATERNIUM-46.

The cationic vinylpyrrolidone polymers of the invention are generally present in amounts of active material ranging from 0.01 to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight. 3% by weight and more particularly still from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetically acceptable medium according to the present invention preferably contains at least one volatile alcohol and / or a volatile silicone oil and / or a volatile hydrocarbon oil and optionally water. Preferably, the medium of the composition contains water in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 50% and more preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

25 VOLATILE ALCOHOLS

By "volatile alcohol" is meant any compound having at least one hydroxyl group and where more than 95% by weight of the compound is capable of being evaporated in less than one hour at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure. (760 mmHg) in contact with a keratinic material such as skin or hair.

The volatile alcohols according to the present invention are preferably chosen from lower C 1 -C 5 monoalcohols may be chosen from methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, n-butanol, isobutanol, t-butanol and more particularly ethanol. Their viscosity at 20 ° C., measured with a HAAKE Rheostress 600 apparatus with a 60 mm diameter rotor, an angle of 2 ° at a shear rate of 200 sec -1 is preferably 0.3 to 3 mPa.s. .

The volatile alcohol (s) are preferably present in amounts ranging from 40 to 80% and more preferably in amounts ranging from 55 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 9 VOLATILE SILICONE OILS

As volatile silicone oils, mention may be made, for example, of volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of 6 centistokes (6.10-6 m 2 / s), and having in particular 2 to 10 silicon atoms, these silicones possibly comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 22 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned in particular octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethylisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

The volatile silicone oil or oils are present preferably from 10 to 80% relative to the total weight of the composition.

VOLATILE HYDROCARBON OILS

The volatile hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially C8-C16 branched alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane ( also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, the oils sold under the trade names Isopars or permetyls, the branched C8-C16 esters the isoparate neopentanoate. hexyl, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell or by Shell, can also be used. According to one embodiment, the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, a volatile linear alkane will be used as hydrocarbon oil.

VOLATILE LINEAR ALKANES The composition according to the invention contains one or more volatile linear alkane (s). By "one or more volatile linear alkane (s)" is meant indifferently "one or more volatile linear alkane (s) oil (s)".

A volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention is liquid at room temperature (about 25 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

By "volatile linear alkane" suitable for the invention is meant a linear cosmetic alkane, capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm). Hg, ie 101,325 Pa), liquid at room temperature, having in particular an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 15 mg / cm 2 / min, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and pressure. atmospheric (760 mmHg).

Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 3.5 mg / cm 2 / min, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760.degree. mm Hg).

Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 1.5 mg / cm 2 / min, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760.degree. mm Hg).

More preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 0.8 mg / cm 2 / min, at room temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure ( 760 mmHg).

Still more preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 0.3 mg / cm 2 / min, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760.degree. mm Hg). More preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 0.12 mg / cm 2 / min, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760.degree. mm Hg).

The rate of evaporation of a volatile alkane according to the invention (and more generally of a volatile solvent) can be evaluated in particular by means of the protocol described in WO 06/013413, and more particularly by means of the protocol described herein. -after.

A crystallizer (diameter: 7 cm) placed on a balance in a chamber of about 0.3 m 3 controlled by temperature (25 ° C.) and hygrometry (relative humidity 50%) is introduced into a crystallizer (15 g) of hydrocarbon solvent. volatile.

The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely without stirring, providing ventilation by a fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 rpm) disposed in a vertical position above the crystallizer containing the solvent. volatile hydrocarbon, the blades being directed to the crystallizer, at a distance of 20 cm from the bottom of the crystallizer.

The mass of volatile hydrocarbon solvent remaining in the crystallizer is measured at regular time intervals.

The evaporation profile of the solvent is then obtained by plotting the curve of the amount of product evaporated (in mg / cm 2) as a function of time (in min). Then the evaporation rate is calculated which corresponds to the tangent at the origin of the curve obtained. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of volatile solvent evaporated per unit area (cm 2) and per unit of time (minute).

According to a preferred embodiment, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have a non-zero vapor pressure (also called saturated vapor pressure) at room temperature, in particular a vapor pressure of 0.3 Pa at 6000 Pa.

In a preferred manner, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have a vapor pressure ranging from 0.3 to 2000 Pa at room temperature (25 ° C.). Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have a vapor pressure ranging from 0.3 to 1000 Pa, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.). More preferably, "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable according to the invention have a vapor pressure ranging from 0.4 to 600 Pa, at room temperature (25 ° C).

In a preferred manner, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have a vapor pressure ranging from 1 to 200 Pa at room temperature (25 ° C.).

More preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention have a vapor pressure ranging from 3 to 60 Pa, at room temperature (25 ° C).

According to one embodiment, a volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention may have a flash point in the range of from 30 to 120 ° C, and more particularly from 40 to 100 ° C. In particular, the flash point is measured according to ISO 3679.

According to one embodiment, an alkane that is suitable for the invention may be a volatile linear alkane comprising from 7 to 14 carbon atoms.

In a preferred manner, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention comprise from 8 to 14 carbon atoms. In a preferred manner, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention comprise from 9 to 14 carbon atoms.

In a preferred manner, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention comprise from 10 to 14 carbon atoms.

In a preferred manner, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention comprise from 11 to 14 carbon atoms.

According to an advantageous embodiment, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate, as defined above, ranging from 0.01 to 3.5 mg / cm 2 / min, at room temperature. (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), and comprise from 8 to 14 carbon atoms. A volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention may advantageously be of plant origin.

Preferably, the volatile linear alkane or the mixture of volatile linear alkanes present in the composition according to the invention comprises at least one carbon isotope 14C (carbon 14), in particular the isotope 14C may be present in a ratio 14C / 12C greater than or equal to 1.10-16, preferably greater than or equal to 1.10-15, more preferably greater than or equal to 7.5.10-14, and better still greater than or equal to 1.5.10-13. Preferably, the ratio 14C / 12C is from 6.10-13 to 1.2.10-12. The amount of 14 C isotopes in the volatile linear alkane or the mixture of volatile linear alkanes can be determined by methods known to those skilled in the art such as the Libby counting method, liquid scintillation spectrometry or still Accelerator Mass Spectrometry.

Such an alkane can be obtained, directly or in several stages, from a vegetable raw material such as an oil, a butter, a wax, etc.

By way of example of alkanes which are suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in the patent applications of Cognis WO 2007/068371, or WO2008 / 155059 (distinct alkane mixtures and differing from at least a carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut oil or palm oil.

By way of example of linear alkanes which are suitable for the invention, mention may be made of n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9) and n-decane (C1o), nundecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the volatile linear alkane is selected from n-nonane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, ntetradecane, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, mention may be made of the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of Application WO2008 / 155059 from Cognis.

Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures. The volatile linear alkane alone can be used.

Alternatively, or alternatively, use may be made of a mixture of at least two distinct volatile linear alkanes, differing from each other by a number of carbon atoms of at least 1, in particular differing from each other by a carbon number of 1 or 2.

According to a first embodiment, a mixture of at least two different volatile linear alkanes having from 10 to 14 carbon atoms and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 1 is used. mention may in particular be made of mixtures of linear volatile alkanes C10 / C11, C11 / C12 or C12 / C13.

According to another embodiment, a mixture of at least two distinct volatile linear alkanes having from 10 to 14 carbon atoms and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 2 is used. mention may in particular be made of mixtures of linear volatile alkanes C10 / C12 or C12 / C14 for an even number of carbon and the C11 / C13 mixture for an odd number of carbon n. According to a preferred embodiment, a mixture of at least two volatile linear alkanes having from 10 to 14 distinct carbon atoms and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 2, and in particular a mixture of carbon atoms, is used. Vol. C18 / C13 volatile linear alkanes or a mixture of C12 / C14 volatile linear alkanes.

Other mixtures comprising more than 2 volatile linear alkanes according to the invention, such as, for example, a mixture of at least 3 volatile linear alkanes having 7 to 14 distinct carbon atoms and differing from each other in a number of carbon atoms. at least 1, are also part of the invention, but the mixtures of 2 linear volatile alkanes according to the invention are preferred (binary mixtures), said 2 volatile linear alkanes preferably representing more than 95% and better still more than 99% by weight of the total content of volatile linear alkanes in the mixture. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, in a mixture of volatile linear alkanes, the volatile linear alkane having the smallest carbon number is predominant in the mixture.

According to another embodiment of the invention, a volatile linear alkane mixture is used in which the volatile linear alkane having the largest carbon number is predominant in the mixture.

By way of examples of mixtures which are suitable for the invention, mention may be made in particular of the following mixtures: from 50 to 90% by weight, preferably from 55 to 80% by weight, and still more preferably from 60 to 75% by weight, C n volatile linear alkane with n ranging from 7 to 14 - from 10 to 50% by weight, preferably from 20 to 45% by weight, preferably from 24 to 40% by weight, of C n volatile linear alkane + X with x greater than or equal to 1, preferably x = 1 or x = 2, with n + x between 10 and 14, relative to the total weight of the alkanes in said mixture. In particular, said mixture of alkanes according to the invention contains: less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight of branched hydrocarbons, and / or less than 2% by weight, preferably less 1% by weight of aromatic hydrocarbons, and / or less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and preferably less than 0.1% by weight of unsaturated hydrocarbons in the mixture.

More particularly, a volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention may be used in the form of a n-undecane / n-tridecane mixture.

In particular, a mixture of volatile linear alkanes comprising: from 55 to 80% by weight, preferably from 60 to 75% by weight of volatile linear alkane, C 1 (n-undecane), from 20 to 45, % by weight, preferably 24 to 40% by weight of volatile linear C13 alkane (n-tridecane) relative to the total weight of the alkanes in said mixture.

According to one particular embodiment, the alkane mixture is a n-undecane / n-tridecane mixture. In particular such a mixture can be obtained according to Example 1 or Example 2 of WO 2008/155059.

According to another particular embodiment, the n-dodecane sold under the reference PARAFOL 12-97 is used by SASOL.

According to another particular embodiment, n-tetradecane sold under the reference PARAFOL 14-97 is used by SASOL.

According to yet another embodiment, a mixture of n-dodecane and n-tetradecane is used.

Additives

The composition of the invention may furthermore comprise any additive usually used in the field of perfumes chosen in particular from antioxidants, fatty substances such as oils (vegetable, mineral or synthetic oils such as esters, perfluoroethers), cosmetic or dermatological active agents such as emollients or softeners such as sweet almond oil, apricot kernel oils, moisturizing agents such as glycerine, soothing agents such as a-bisabolol, allantoin, aloes vera; vitamins and their derivatives, essential fatty acids, insect repellents, propellants, peptizers, fillers, co-solvents, UV filters, stabilizers or preservatives, dyes, pearlescent agents, glitter and their mixtures. When they are present in the composition of the invention, these additives may be present in an amount ranging from 0.001 to 10% and better still from 0.01 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Among the cosolvents that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of octyldodecanol, tri-ethylcitrate, dicaprylylcarbonate, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate and palmitate and 2-ethylhexyl palmitate.

Among the UV filters, mention may be made of organic screening filters for UVA and / or UVB radiation, for example dibenzoylmethane derivatives, such as Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL 1789 by DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS, derivatives of benzophenone such as Benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name "UVINUL D50" by BASF, Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone 40 sold under the trade name "UVINUL M40" by BASF or Benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name "UVINUL MS40" by BASF, - aminobenzophenone derivatives such as n-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate sold under the trade name "UVINUL A +" by BASF, 45 - salicylic acid derivatives such as Homosalate sold under the name "Eusolex HMS" by Rona / EM Industries and Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold under the name "NEO HELIOPAN OS" by SYMRISE. cinnamic acid derivatives, such as Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL MCX by DSM NUTRITIONAL 50 PRODUCTS, derivatives of (3, 3'-diphenylacrylate, such as Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name UVINUL N539 by BASF, benzylidene camphor derivatives such as Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name MEXORYL SX by CHIMEX, benzotriazole silicones such as Drometrizole Trisiloxane manufactured under the name MEXORYL XL by CHIMEX.

The composition of the invention may further comprise soluble dyes in the support of said composition

As soluble dyes according to the invention, mention may be made of water-soluble or hydrophilic dyes such as: caramel, Yellow 5, Acid Blue 9 / Blue 1, Green 5, Green 3 / Fast Green FCF 3, Orange 4, Red 4 / Food Red 1, Yellow 6, Acid Red 33 / Food Red 12, Red 40, Cochineal Carmine (CI 15850, Cl 75470), Ext. Purple 2, Red 6-7, Ferric Ferrocyanide, Ultramarines, Yellow 3 / Yellow Acid 10, Acid Blue 3, Yellow 10.

The soluble dye (s) according to the invention are preferably present in amounts ranging from 10-5 to 1% of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 10-4 to 0.1% of the total weight of the composition. total weight of the composition. Perfume color stabilizers include Tris (tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate, such as the product sold under the name "TINOGUARD Q" by CIBA-GEIGY, Sodium Benzotriazolyl Butylphenol Sulfonate, as the product sold under the name "TINOGUARD HS". 25 by CIBA-GEIGY; Benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-Cresol as the product sold under the name "TINOGUARD TL" by the company CIBA-GEIGY. as the product sold under the trade name "CIBAFAST H LIQUID" by the company CIBA-GEIGY. Bumetrizole as the product sold under the name "TINOGUARD AS" by the company CIBA-GEIGY. According to one particular form of the invention, at least one additional antioxidant and / or at least one peptizing agent will be used in order to improve the clarity of the composition and / or to reduce or even eliminate the phenomena of cold precipitation which may be caused by by certain perfumes and / or to improve the stability of the composition on storage.

Among the antioxidants, mention may be made, for example, of BHA (tert-butyl-4-hydroxyanisole), BHT (2,6-di-tert-butyl-p-cresol), tocopherols such as vitamin E and its derivatives such as tocopheryl acetate. They are used at concentrations ranging from 0.01% to 1% relative to the total weight of the composition.

Among the peptizers which can be used according to the invention, use will more particularly be made of hydrogenated castor oil which is oxyethylenated with 60 moles of ethylene oxide: INCI name: PEG-60 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL as the products sold under the trade names CREMOPHOR RH60 or CREMOPHOR C040. by BASF. They are used at concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2 times the concentration of perfume concentrate relative to the total weight of the composition

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives 50 and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or not substantially impaired by the addition envisaged.

GALENIC FORMS

The invention applies not only to perfuming products but also to care products, skin treatment, including scalp, and lips, containing an odoriferous substance. The composition according to the invention may thus constitute a composition for perfuming, caring for and treating keratin materials, and in particular be in the form of fresh water, eau de toilette, eau de parfum, lotion afterwards. shaving, care water, silicone or hydrosilicone care oil. It can also be in the form of a scented bi-phasic lotion (eau de toilette phase / hydrocarbon oil phase and / or silicone oil).

The composition according to the invention can be manufactured by known methods, generally used in the field of perfume formulations.

The compositions according to the invention may be packaged in the form of flasks.

The perfuming composition of the invention can be diffused according to different systems such as sprays, aerosols, piezoelectric devices. They can also be applied as fine particles by means of mechanical or propellant pressurizing devices. The devices according to the invention are well known to those skilled in the art and include pump-bottles or "sprays", aerosol containers comprising a propellant 30 as well as aerosol pumps using compressed air as a propellant. These are described in US Pat. Nos. 4,077,441 and 4,850,517.

The aerosol-conditioned compositions according to the invention generally contain conventional propellants such as, for example, dimethyl ether, isobutane, n-butane and propane.

The perfume compositions are preferably transparent. Their transparency is measured by a turbidity ranging from 1 to 200 NTU and preferably from 10 to 90 NTU turbidity measured at 24 hours to the portable turbidimeter HACH - 40 Model 2100 P.

The compositions according to the invention are, according to a particular form of the invention, lotions and preferably have a viscosity ranging from 10 to 120 UD and more preferably from 30 to 120 UD, still more preferably from 40 to 80 45 UD; the viscosity being measured at Rheomat TVe-05, at 25 ° C, rotational speed 200 rpm, mobile 1, 10 min. These low viscosities make it possible to condition the compositions of the invention by means of mechanical or propellant pressurizing devices so as to be applied in the form of fine particles (vaporization). According to one particular form of the invention, the compositions will not contain a gelling agent, polypropylene glycol or polypropylene glycol having a number of propylene oxide units ranging from 2 to 30. This is to prevent the formation of a polymeric film on the skin.

"Not containing a gelling agent, propylene glycol or polypropylene glycol having a propylene oxide number of from 2 to 30" per container containing less than 1% by weight (based on the total weight of the composition), preferably less than 0.5% by weight and more particularly free of gelling agent or propylene glycol or polypropylene glycol having a number of propylene oxide units ranging from 2 to 30.

The term "gelling agent" is understood to mean any organic or mineral substance capable of modifying the rheology, the texture of the composition by forming a gel.

The invention will now be described with reference to the following examples given for illustrative and non-limiting. In these examples, unless otherwise indicated, the amounts are expressed as percentages by weight. The following perfume formulations were made; the quantities are indicated in percentages by weight:

Examples Ingredients Example Example 2 Example 3 1 (outside (invention) (invention) invention) Fragrance of the eau de toilette 12.00% 12.00% 6.00% Magnifique Lancôme BHT 0.05% 0.05% 0 Mixture 70% by weight 0.60% 0.60% 0.60% Ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate 15% by weight Ethylhexylsalylate and 15% by weight Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane (COVABSORB LCW Sensient Cosmetic Technologies) Blend 65 % by weight 0.04% 0.04% 0.04% Ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate and 35% by weight Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (UVINUL A + B-BASF) Ethanol 76.82% 76.82% 76.82 0 / 0 Polyquaternium-16 (LUVIQUAT - 0.2% in 0.1% in STYLE) active ingredient active ingredient Water qsp qsp qsp25 The perfume remanence for each of the formulas 1, 2 and 3 is measured by a panel of olfactory experts. protocol was as follows: 1) Increase of the persistence of a formula by the addition of cationic vinylpyrrolidone polymer

Panel of olfactory experts: number between 6 and 10 people for each trial evaluating the same number of people. Controls applied two drops of Formula 1 and Formula 2 on both forearms. The judges then had to determine after 3:00 and 6:00 if they found the two arms of the same witnesses or if one of the two arms seemed to diffuse more perfume. To the question: "on the witness here present, is there one of the two arms on which the perfume seems to you more present? ", The experts said: Criterion Formula 1 Formula 2 No evaluation (off (invention) preference between invention) Arms more powerful arm to 0 times 7 times 3 times 3h Arm more powerful at 1 time 8 times 1 time 6h The polyquaternium 16 significantly increases skin resistance.

2) Decrease of the perfume concentration for an identical olfactory effect 20 Panel of olfactory experts: number between 6 and 10 people for each trial evaluating the same number of people.

Controls applied two drops of Formula 1 and Formula 2 on both forearms.

The judges then had to determine after 3:00 and 6:00 if they found the two arms of the same witnesses or if one of the two arms seemed to diffuse more perfume. To the question: "on the witness here present, is there one of the two arms on which the perfume seems to you more present? ", The experts said: Evaluation Criterion Formula 1 Formula 3 None (off (invention) preference between invention) Arms more powerful arm to 4 times 4 times 10 times 3h Arm more powerful 5 times 3 times 10 times 6h These results shows that by adding the cationic vinylpyrrolidone polymer at only 0.5%, it is possible to reduce the concentration of 50% perfume without the difference being detected at 0.5% only

Claims (7)

REVENDICATIONS1. Perfuming composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium: a) at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one perfume substance; b) at least 40% by weight of a volatile alcohol and / or a volatile silicone oil and / or a volatile hydrocarbon oil, c) at least one cationic vinylpyrrolidone polymer; d) and possibly water. 2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of perfuming substance varies from 1 to 30% by weight, better still from 2 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 3. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the cationic vinylpyrrolidone polymer is selected from: (1) quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers; (2) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylamino alkyl acrylate or methacrylate with optionally vinylcaprolactam and optionally crosslinked; (3) vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyl dimethylamine copolymers having the INCI name: VP / DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer. (4) Terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, dialkyl (C1-C4) aminoalkyl (C1-C4) methacrylamide and (C1-C30) alkyl (C1-C4) alkylammonium (C1-C4) alkyl methacrylamido salt. (5) quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers; (6) quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole. (7) terpolymers of vinylimidazolium methosulphate, vinylpyrrolmidone and vinylcaprolactam. 35 4. Composition according to claim 3, wherein the cationic vinylpyrrolidone polymer is chosen from quaternary vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole polymers and terpolymers of vinylimidazolium methosulphate, vinylpyrrolmidone and vinylcaprolactam. 40 5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the cationic vinylpyrrolidone polymer or polymers of the invention are present in amounts of active material ranging from 0.01 to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0, 1 to 30% by weight, still more preferably 0.1 to 3% by weight and even more preferably 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the volatile alcohol is selected from C1-05 monoalcohols. 50 The composition of claim 6, wherein the volatile alcohol is ethanol. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the volatile alcohol or volatile alcohols are present in amounts ranging from 40 to 80. % and preferably in concentrations ranging from 55 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 9. according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the volatile silicone oils are chosen from octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane and mixtures thereof. 10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the volatile silicone oils are present in amounts ranging from 10% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the hydrocarbon oils are chosen from volatile linear alkanes. 12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, further comprising at least one additive chosen from antioxidants, fatty substances such as oils (vegetable, mineral or synthetic oils such as esters, perfluoroethers), active ingredients. cosmetic or dermatological, for example emollients or softeners such as sweet almond oil, apricot kernel oils, moisturizing agents such as glycerine, soothing agents such as a-bisabolol, allantoin, aloes vera; vitamins and their derivatives, essential fatty acids, insect repellents, propellants, peptizers, fillers, co-solvents, UV filters, stabilizers or preservatives, dyes, pearlescent agents, glitter and their mixtures. 13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, in the form of fresh water, eau de toilette, eau de parfum, aftershave, care water, oil silicone or hydrosilicone skincare; scented bi-phasic lotion. 14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, packaged in the form of a bottle; packaged in a pressurized form in a spray, an aerosol, a piezoelectric device. 15. A cosmetic process for the perfuming of human keratin materials or a garment, comprising the application on said keratin materials or said garment of the composition as defined in claims 1 to 14.40.