FR3086538A1 - USE OF SPICULISPORIC ACID AND AN ORGANIC BASE FOR HAIR STRENGTHENING, METHOD AND DEVICE - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to the use of a cosmetic composition comprising spiculisporic acid and an organic base, preferably chosen from basic amino acids, for strengthening keratin fibers, in particular hair. The invention also relates to a method of cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, in particular of the hair, comprising the application of said composition, as well as a device with several compartments comprising in a first compartment spiculisporic acid, and in a second compartment at least one organic base, preferably chosen from basic amino acids, in particular arginine.

Description

Use of spiculisporic acid and an organic base for hair strengthening, method and device

The present invention relates to the use of spiculisporic acid in combination with a natural base, in a composition intended for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, to strengthen and / or repair said fibers. The invention also relates to a method of cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers using said composition.

The hair can be damaged and weakened by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, as well as by mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, perms and / or straighteners. These treatments can lead in the long term to a weakening of the keratin fiber both in the cuticle and in the cortex. The hair is thus damaged by these various factors and can in the long term become dry, rough, brittle and / or dull, especially in fragile places, and more particularly at the ends, which will lead to the appearance of forks.

To remedy these drawbacks, it is customary to use hair care which uses compositions intended to condition the hair in a suitable manner by providing them with satisfactory cosmetic properties, in particular straightening, shine and softness. , flexibility, lightness, natural feel and good disentangling properties. The purpose of these compositions is therefore to protect, repair and cosmetically transform the hair in a sustainable manner. These hair care compositions, intended to be applied regularly to the hair, can be, for example conditioning shampoos, conditioners, masks or serums, and can be in the form of gels, hair lotions and more or less thick skincare creams. They generally contain conditioning agents such as silicones, cationic polymers and / or cationic surfactants in more or less quantity.

However, such compositions are not entirely satisfactory in terms of impact on the environment.

However, the search for solutions to formulate cosmetics that are respectful of the environment but just as effective has become an important issue to meet consumer demand.

There is therefore a real need for compositions which do not have the drawbacks mentioned above, that is to say which are capable of reinforcing / repairing keratin fibers while having a less unfavorable impact on the environment, in particular meeting satisfactory naturalness and / or biodegradability criteria.

This object is achieved by the present invention which proposes to use spiculisporic acid, which is a natural and eco-friendly bio-surfactant (surfactant), from renewable source and easily biodegradable. Said acid is used in combination with a natural organic base, especially of the amino acid type, such as arginine.

The present invention therefore relates to the use of a cosmetic composition comprising spiculisporic acid and an organic base, preferably chosen from basic amino acids, for strengthening keratin fibers, in particular the hair.

The subject of the invention is also a method of cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, in particular of the hair, in which a cosmetic composition comprising spiculisporic acid and an organic base, preferably chosen from basic amino acids, is applied to said fibers. , said method being more particularly intended for strengthening keratin fibers, in particular hair.

It has been found that with the invention, it was possible to strengthen the keratin fibers; by this is meant that it is possible to fortify, regenerate, restructure their integrity, ensure their solidity, and even repair them. Thus, keratin fibers can be protected, reinforced, or even repaired.

The invention is particularly intended for keratin fibers, in particular for hair, damaged, brittle and / or split ends, as well as fine or refined hair.

Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and the examples which follow.

In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the bounds of a domain of values are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “included between” and “ranging from ... to ...”, these expressions being of equivalent meaning and therefore interchangeable.

As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises spiculisporic acid.

Spiculisporic acid, also known as 4,5-dicarboxy-4pentadecanolide, has the following formula:

OH .Ο

The spiculisporic acid is used in the context of the invention preferably in salified form, preferably in the form of an organic salt.

The composition according to the invention therefore also comprises an organic base preferably chosen from basic amino acids.

The basic amino acid (s) are for example chosen from those corresponding to the following formula (I):

NH ₂

R — CH ₂ —CH _x co ₂ h in which R denotes a group chosen from - (ChhhNhh; - (CH2) 2NH2; (CH ₂ ) ₂ NHCONH2;

NH

The compounds corresponding to formula (I) are histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline.

Preferably, the basic amino acid (s) used in the context of the invention are chosen from histidine, arginine and lysine, and their mixtures, preferably arginine, alone or as a mixture with one or more other acids amines, in particular of formula (I).

The base or bases used are so-called neutralizing bases, that is to say that they can make it possible to neutralize, partially or completely, spiculisporic acid to form a salt of said acid. It is possible to form the mono-salt, the di-salt or the tri-salt of spiculisporic acid, depending on the amount of base added. Advantageously, the mono-salt will be formed.

Preferably, the organic base / spiculisporic acid molar ratio is less than or equal to 2.5, preferably less than or equal to 2.2, and better still less than or equal to 2.0, or even less than or equal to 1.8, again better less than or equal to 1.6, or even

1.5. In particular, it can be between 0.5 and 2.5, in particular between 0.6 and 2.2, better between 0.7 and 2.0, even between 0.8 and 1.8 and preferably between 0, 9 and

1.5.

Preferably, the basic amino acid (s) / spiculisporic acid molar ratio is less than or equal to 2.5, preferably less than or equal to 2.2, and better still less than or equal to 2.0, or even less than or equal to 1.8, even better less than or equal to 1.6, or even 1.5. In particular, it can be between 0.5 and 2.5, in particular between 0.6 and 2.2, better between 0.7 and 2.0, even between 0.8 and 1.8 and preferably between 0, 9 and 1.5.

Preferably, the arginine / spiculisporic acid molar ratio is less than or equal to 2.5, preferably less than or equal to 2.2, and better still less than or equal to 2.0, or even less than or equal to 1.8, even better less than or equal to 1.6, or even 1.5. In particular, it can be between 0.5 and 2.5, in particular between 0.6 and 2.2, better between 0.7 and 2.0, even between 0.8 and 1.8 and preferably between 0, 9 and 1.5.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises spiculisporic acid at a content of between 0.1 and 15% by weight, in particular between 0.5 and 10% by weight, more particularly between 1 and 8% by weight, or even between 1.5 and 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the organic base (s) at a content of between 0.01 and 15% by weight, in particular between 0.05 and 15% by weight, more particularly between 0.1 and 10% by weight, or even between 0.5 and 8% by weight, even better between 1 and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the basic amino acid (s) in a content of between 0.01 and 15% by weight, in particular between 0.05 and 15% by weight , more particularly between 0.1 and 10% by weight, or even between 0.5 and 8% by weight, even better between 1 and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises arginine at a content of between 0.01 and 15% by weight, in particular between 0.05 and 15% by weight, more particularly between 0.1 and 10% by weight , or even between 0.5 and 8% by weight, even better between 1 and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the pH of said cosmetic composition is between 4.0 and

6.5, especially between 4.1 and 6.0, better between 4.2 and 5.7, even better between 4.3 and 5.4.

The cosmetic composition may comprise a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium compatible with topical application to keratin fibers, in particular the hair.

Preferably, said cosmetic composition is a hair composition, which can be a rinsed or leave-in composition.

It is preferably in the form of a shampoo, a cream, a foam (aerosol or not), a paste, a gel, an emulsion, a lotion, or even a stick. Preferably, the hair composition is a shampoo, a gel, a cream or a lotion, for example a hair care product (i.e. a conditioner).

The cosmetic composition preferably comprises water and / or one or more organic solvents which can be chosen from monoalcohols, linear or branched, in C1-C6 such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or nbutanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol (or 2methyl-2,4-pentanediol), and polyethylene glycols; polyol ethers such as dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether; and their mixtures.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises water at a content ranging from 30 to 98% by weight, in particular from 40 to 95% by weight, better still from 50 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises the organic solvent (s), when they are present, at a content ranging from 0.05% to 60%, preferably from 0.5 to 50%, and better still from 1 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Said cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one usual cosmetic ingredient, in particular chosen from vegetable, mineral, animal or synthetic oils; liquid fatty alcohols; liquid fatty esters; solid fatty substances and in particular waxes, solid fatty esters, solid alcohols; anionic, cationic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants; anionic, nonionic, amphoteric and cationic polymers; sun filters; moisturizers; anti-dandruff agents, antioxidant agents; fall arrest agents; pearlescent and opacifying agents; plasticizers or coalescing agents; hydroxy acids; the charges; silicones and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); the perfumes; thickeners, polymeric or not, and in particular associative polymers; conservatives; sequestrants (EDTA and its salts); coloring matters. The composition can obviously comprise several cosmetic ingredients appearing in the list above. A person skilled in the art will take care to choose the ingredients entering into the composition, as well as their quantities, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition.

As indicated above, the invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, in particular of the hair, in which a cosmetic composition comprising spiculisporic acid and an organic base is preferably applied to said fibers. chosen from basic amino acids, said process being more particularly intended for strengthening keratin fibers, in particular hair.

The step of applying the composition can optionally be followed by a step of laying the composition on the fibers, and / or a step of rinsing the fibers, for example with water; and / or a fiber drying step.

In a particular embodiment of the invention, the spiculisporic acid and the organic base can be packaged separately (for example in the form of a kit).

A subject of the invention is therefore also a method of cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, in particular of the hair, in which one or more compositions comprising, taken together or separately in the said composition (s), spiculisporic acid are applied to said fibers and an organic base, preferably chosen from basic amino acids, in particular arginine, said method being more particularly intended for strengthening keratin fibers, in particular hair.

Another object of the present invention is a device with several compartments (also called kit) comprising a first compartment containing a composition comprising spiculisporic acid, and at least one second compartment containing an organic base, preferably chosen from basic amino acids , including arginine.

The following examples are given by way of illustration of the present invention.

Example 1

One of the parameters describing the integrity of the fiber is the denaturation temperature of Keratin Associated Proteins (KAPs) (or denaturation temperature of the fiber) measured by calorimetric analysis (DSC).

Strands of highly sensitized hair (SA50), weighing 2.7 g, previously washed with a DOP shampoo and rinsed, are soaked for 30 minutes at room temperature (25 ° C) in 30 g of composition to be tested, then are rinsed.

The rinsing of the wick is carried out according to the following protocol: 15 passages between the fingers under a water flow rate of 2 liters / min with water at a temperature of approximately 37 ° C. followed by drying in a helmet for 15 minutes at 60 ° C.

The aqueous compositions comprising the ingredients indicated in the table below (qs 100% water) are tested:

Composition Ingredients CO Water - pH 7.62 (spontaneous pH) C1 Citric acid (0.03% in water) - pH 4.8 C2 Arginine (0.02% in water) - pH 9.08 Example 1 5% spiculisporic acid + 2.9% arginine (arginine / AS molar ratio = 1.1) - pH 4.75 Example 2 5% spiculisporic acid + 5.3% arginine (arginine / AS molar ratio = 2.0) - pH 6.84 Example 3 5% spiculisporic acid + 8% arginine (arginine / AS molar ratio = 3.0) - pH 9.14

Denaturation temperature measurement:

The protocol consists in immersing 10 mg of hair in 50 μl of water inside a crucible hermetically sealed with the aid of a seal (medium pressure stainless steel crucible). The imposed thermal program is heating from 25 ° C to 200 ° C at a scanning speed of 10 ° C / min. The thermogram has an endothermic peak between 130 and 160 ° C corresponding to the denaturation temperature of the fiber. The lower this value, the more the fiber is degraded.

The denaturing temperature values for the fiber are given in the table below. Each value corresponds to an average of 4 tests (2 tests per wick, 2 wicks performed).

Wicks Denaturation temperature (° C) CO 146.69 ± 0.54 C1 148.13 ± 0.93 C2 146.41 ± 0.27 Example 1 154.47 ± 0.59 Example 2 146.24 ± 0.28 Example 3 138.69 ± 0.42

It is noted that the use of spiculisporic acid and arginine, in a ratio of 1.1 makes it possible to very significantly increase the denaturation temperature of the fiber, thus translating a significant improvement in the integrity of the fiber. .

Example 2

A shampoo is prepared comprising the following ingredients (% by weight):

Ingredients % (by weight of active ingredient) Spiculisporic acid 5% Arginine 2.9% Decyl-glucoside 6% Coco-glucoside 4% Xanthan gum 0.7% Conservative qs PH agent Qs pH = 4.8 Water Qsp 100%

Claims (14)

1. Use of a cosmetic composition comprising spiculisporic acid and an organic base, preferably chosen from basic amino acids, for strengthening keratin fibers, in particular hair. 2. Use according to claim 1, in which the composition comprises at least one organic base chosen from basic amino acids of formula (I) below: NH ₂ R — ch ₂ —ch _x G) CO ₂ H in which R denotes a group chosen from - (ChhhNhfc; - (CH2) 2NH2; (CH ₂ ) ₂ NHCONH2; - (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH - C — NH NH

3. Use according to one of the preceding claims, in which the composition comprises at least one organic base chosen from histidine, arginine and lysine, and their mixtures, preferably arginine, alone or in mixture with one or several other amino acids, in particular of formula (I). 4. Use according to one of the preceding claims, in which the molar ratio of organic base / spiculisporic acid, in particular the molar ratio of basic amino acid (s) / spiculisporic acid, and very particularly the molar ratio of arginine / spiculisporic acid, is less than or equal to 2.5, preferably less than or equal to 2.2, and better still less than or equal to 2.0, or even less than or equal to 1.8, even better still less than or equal to 1, 6, or even 1.5; in particular, is between 0.5 and 2.5, in particular between 0.6 and 2.2, better between 0.7 and 2.0, even between 0.8 and 1.8 and preferably between 0.9 and 1.5. 5. Use according to one of the preceding claims, in which the composition comprises spiculisporic acid in a content of between 0.1 and 15% by weight, in particular between 0.5 and 10% by weight, more particularly between 1 and 8% by weight, or even between 1.5 and 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 6. Use according to one of the preceding claims, in which the composition comprises the organic base or bases, in particular the basic amino acid (s), and very particularly the arginine, at a content of between 0.01 and 15%. weight, in particular between 0.05 and 15% by weight, more particularly between 0.1 and 10% by weight, or even between 0.5 and 8% by weight, even better between 1 and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 7. Use according to one of the preceding claims, in which the cosmetic composition comprises water, preferably at a content ranging from 30 to 98% by weight, in particular from 40 to 95% by weight, better still from 50 to 90 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 8. Use according to one of the preceding claims, in which the cosmetic composition comprises at least one cosmetic ingredient chosen from vegetable, mineral, animal or synthetic oils; liquid fatty alcohols; liquid fatty esters; solid fatty substances and in particular waxes, solid fatty esters, solid alcohols; anionic, cationic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants; anionic, nonionic, amphoteric and cationic polymers; sun filters; moisturizers; anti-dandruff agents, antioxidant agents; fall arrest agents; pearlescent and opacifying agents; plasticizers or coalescing agents; hydroxy acids; the charges; silicones and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes; the perfumes; thickeners, polymeric or not, and in particular associative polymers; conservatives; sequestrants (EDTA and its salts); coloring matters. 9. A method of cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, in particular of the hair, in which a cosmetic composition comprising spiculisporic acid and an organic base is preferably applied to said fibers, preferably chosen from basic amino acids, said method being intended for strengthening of keratin fibers, in particular of the hair; the step of applying the composition possibly being followed by a step of laying the composition on the fibers, and / or a step of rinsing the fibers, for example with water; and / or a fiber drying step. 10. The method of claim 9, wherein the organic base / spiculisporic acid molar ratio, in particular the basic amino acid (s) / spiculisporic molar ratio, and very particularly the arginine / spiculisporic molar ratio , is less than or equal to 2.5, preferably less than or equal to 2.2, and better still less than or equal to 2.0, or even less than or equal to 1.8, even better still less than or equal to 1.6, even at 1.5; in particular, is between 0.5 and 2.5, in particular between 0.6 and 2.2, better between 0.7 and 2.0, even between 0.8 and 1.8 and preferably between 0.9 and 1.5. 11. Method according to one of claims 9 to 10, wherein the composition comprises spiculisporic acid in a content of between 0.1 and 15% by weight, in particular between 0.5 and 10% by weight, more particularly between 1 and 8% by weight, or even between 1.5 and 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 12. Method according to one of claims 9 to 11, in which the composition comprises the organic base (s), in particular the basic amino acid (s), and very particularly arginine, at a content of between 0.01 and 15% by weight, in particular between 0.05 and 15% by weight, more particularly between 0.1 and 10% by weight, or even between 0.5 and 8% by weight, even better between 1 and 5% by weight, relative the total weight of the composition. 13. Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, in particular hair, in which one or more compositions are applied to said fibers comprising, taken together or separately in the said composition (s), spiculisporic acid and an organic base, preferably chosen from basic amino acids, in particular arginine, said process being intended for strengthening keratin fibers, in particular hair. 14. Multi-compartment device (or kit) comprising a first compartment containing a composition comprising spiculisporic acid, and at least one second compartment containing an organic base, preferably chosen from basic amino acids, in particular arginine.