FR3025097A1 - GEL / GEL COMPRISING AT LEAST TWO LOOSE EFFECTS - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for makeup and / or care of keratinous substances, in particular skin and / or lips, comprising: at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, said hydrophilic gelling agent being a homopolymer of a monomer containing a sulfonic group; and at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent; said phases forming a macroscopically homogeneous mixture therein; said composition further comprising at least two blooming fillers, said two blooming fillers being a crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silsesquioxane resin and a crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with hydrophilic treated silicone resin. The present invention also relates to a process for preparing a composition according to the invention as well as methods implementing a composition according to the invention.

Description

The present invention aims to provide for the field of care and / or make-up of keratinous substances, in particular of the skin and / or the lips, and in particular of the skin, a new galenic product which is particularly interesting with regard to its technical performance. and sensory sensations that it provides to the user during its application on them and in particular on the skin. By "keratin materials" is meant in particular the skin, the lips and / or the eyelashes, in particular the skin and / or the lips, and preferably the skin. Cosmetic compositions are commonly used to camouflage, and / or unify skin surface imperfections such as pores, wrinkles and / or fine lines and / or scars. In this regard, many formulations, solid or fluid, anhydrous or not, have so far been developed. When these compositions are more specifically intended to reduce the visibility of the relief of the skin, the formulator uses diffusing or blurring charges. However, the corresponding compositions, currently available, are not totally satisfactory especially in terms of blurring performance. In order to obtain a satisfactory degree of blurring, it is often necessary to introduce a large amount of blooming fillers into the composition. However, this level of blooming fillers can lead to a destabilization of said composition and lead to cosmetic properties that are not in accordance with users' expectations, in particular the formation of fluff during the application of the product and / or after drying and / or penetration of the product into the skin. This defect is unacceptable for the user, because the application is not homogeneous nor pleasant given this fluffy effect in the application or in the course of removal of the product. In addition, it gives an impression of "dirty" on the skin. There is therefore still a need for mattifying and / or smoothing compositions making it possible to mask imperfections of the skin, having good cosmetic properties, in particular which are soft, fresh and light on application and which do not lead to the formation of soft toys. It is also desirable that these mattifying cosmetic compositions have good stability over time and do not imply a sensation of discomfort, dryness, or a rough sensation both on application and after application. The present invention aims precisely to meet this need.

Thus, according to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for makeup and / or care of keratinous substances, in particular of the skin and / or the lips, comprising: at least one aqueous phase gelled by at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, said hydrophilic gelling agent being a homopolymer of a monomer containing a sulfonic group, preferably a crosslinked homopolymer of ammonium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulphonate; and at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent; said phases forming a macroscopically homogeneous mixture therein; Said composition further comprising at least two blooming fillers, said two blooming fillers being a crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silsesquioxane resin and a crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with hydrophilic treated silicone resin. In the context of the present invention, the term "blooming effect" designates a fuzzy effect that camouflages the micro-reliefs of the skin. This effect makes it possible in particular to attenuate by optical effect skin defects such as spots, wrinkles or fine lines. These blooming charges may also be called "soft-locus charges" or "blur charges". Unexpectedly, the inventors have found that the formulation of a blooming filler in a gel-gel architecture as defined above makes it possible to improve the performance, to boost this bloating effect. In addition, the feeling of discomfort that can be generated by the presence of this type of load is no longer felt on application. As can be seen from the examples given below, the compositions according to the invention have improved stability, moreover they make it possible to obtain products having a homogeneous application and without the effect of "linting".

3025097 3 Compositions, called gel-gel, are already proposed in the cosmetics field. This type of formulation combines a gelled aqueous phase with a gelled oily phase. Thus, gel / gel formulations are described in Almeida et al., Pharmaceutical Development and Technology, 2008, 13: 487, Tables 1 and 2, page 488; WO 99/65455; PI 0405758-9; WO 99/62497; JP 2005-112834 and WO 2008/081175. However, to the knowledge of the inventors, this type of composition does not currently allow to hide and smooth relief imperfections without altering the other cosmetic performance expected. As stated above, the inventors have found that the choice of a particular hydrophilic gelling agent for texturing the aqueous phase of a gel / gel composition and the use of at least two particular blooming fillers in a composition according to the invention makes it possible to improve the effects of these fillers, as illustrated in the examples, while improving the cosmetic properties (stability, absence of fluffing).

Thus, a composition according to the invention exhibits very good camouflaging properties of the relief imperfections and smoothing of the skin, while providing a feeling of freshness and lightness to the user. Finally, the composition is easy to apply on the surface of the targeted keratin material. The composition of the invention makes it possible to obtain a homogeneous and pleasant application of the product without the appearance of fluff at the different stages of use of the product, whether during application or during drying. According to another of its aspects, the subject of the invention is also a process for the preparation of a cosmetic makeup and / or care composition for keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, comprising at least one mixing step: an aqueous phase gelled with at least one homopolymer of a monomer containing a sulphonic group, in particular at least one crosslinked homopolymer of ammonium acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulphonate; and at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent; under conditions conducive to obtaining a macroscopically homogeneous mixture; Said composition further comprising at least two blooming fillers which are a cross-linked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silsesquioxane resin and a cross-linked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with hydrophilic treated silicone resin.

According to an alternative embodiment, this process may advantageously comprise a step of mixing at least two, preferably at least three gelled phases, or even more. For obvious reasons, the number of gelled aqueous phases and gelled oily phases to be considered for forming a composition according to the invention may vary for each of the two types of phase beyond two. Advantageously, the mixing of the phases can be carried out at ambient temperature. However, the method of the invention may include, if necessary, a step of heating the mixture.

According to a particular embodiment, the gelled phases representative of the same type of architecture are gelled by a different gelling agent. Multiphase formulas can thus be developed. According to one embodiment, a cosmetic composition according to the invention can be prepared without following a particular order of introduction of the various constituents. Thus, according to an alternative embodiment, a composition according to the invention may be prepared by mixing at least one gelled aqueous phase according to the invention and at least the ingredients of the oily phase according to the invention. According to an alternative embodiment, a composition according to the invention may be prepared by mixing at least one gelled oily phase according to the invention and at least the ingredients of the aqueous phase according to the invention. According to another alternative embodiment, a composition according to the invention may be prepared according to a "all-in-one" method, that is to say by mixing all the ingredients of the aqueous and oily phases.

Another subject of the invention, according to another of its aspects, is a process for makeup and / or care, in particular cosmetic care, of keratin materials, in particular skin and / or lips, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin material a composition according to the invention. According to yet another of its aspects, the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for keratinous substances, in particular the skin and / or the lips, comprising at least one step of application on said keratin material a macroscopically homogeneous composition obtained by extemporaneous mixing, before application or at the time of application on said keratin material, of at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one homopolymer of a monomer containing a sulphonic group, preferably with at least one crosslinked homopolymer of ammonium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate, and at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent; and said composition further comprising at least two blooming fillers which are a cross-linked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silsesquioxane resin and a crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with hydrophilic treated silicone resin. COSMETIC COMPOSITION First of all, it is important to note that a composition according to the invention is different from an emulsion.

An emulsion generally consists of an oily liquid phase and an aqueous liquid phase. It is a dispersion of droplets of one of the two liquid phases in the other. The size of the droplets forming the dispersed phase of the emulsion is typically of the order of one micrometer (0.1 to 100 μm). In addition, an emulsion requires the presence of a surfactant or emulsifier to ensure its stability over time. In contrast, a composition according to the invention consists of a macroscopically homogeneous mixture of two immiscible gelled phases. These two phases both have a gel-like texture. This texture is reflected in particular visually by a consistent and / or creamy appearance.

By "macroscopically homogeneous mixture" is meant a mixture in which each of the gelled phases can not be individualized with the naked eye.

More specifically, in a composition according to the invention, the gelled aqueous phase and the gelled oily phase interpenetrate and thus form a stable and consistent product. This consistency is achieved by mixing interpenetrating macro domains. These interpenetrating macro-domains are not measurable objects. Thus, at the microscope, the composition according to the invention is very different from an emulsion. A composition according to the invention can not be characterized as having a "meaning", ie a sense HIE or E / H. Thus, a composition according to the invention has a gel-like consistency. The stability of the composition is durable without surfactant. Therefore, a cosmetic composition according to the invention does not require a surfactant or silicone emulsifier to ensure its stability over time. It is known from the state of the art to observe the intrinsic nature of a mixture of aqueous and oily gels in a gel-type composition, for example by introducing a coloring material either in the aqueous gelled phase or in the lipophilic gelled phase, prior to formation of the gel-like composition. In visual inspection, in a gel-like composition, the coloring matter appears to be uniformly dispersed, even if the dye is present only in the gelled aqueous phase or in the gelled oily phase. Indeed, if two different dyes of different colors are introduced into the oily phase and the aqueous phase, respectively, before the formation of the gel composition, the two colors can be observed as uniformly dispersed throughout the gel type composition. . This is different from an emulsion in which, if a water-soluble or oil-soluble dye is introduced into the aqueous and oily phases, respectively, before forming the emulsion, only the color of the dye will be observed. present in the outer phase (Remington: 25 The Science and Practice of Pharmacy, 19th Edition (1995), Chapter 21, page 282). It is also known to distinguish a gel-type composition from an emulsion by performing a "drop test". This test consists of demonstrating the bicontinuous nature of a gel-type composition. Indeed, as mentioned above, the consistency of a composition is obtained through the interpenetration of the aqueous and oily gelled domains. Therefore, the bi-continuous nature of a gel-like composition can be evidenced by a simple test with hydrophilic and hydrophobic solvents respectively. This test consists of depositing, on the one hand, a drop of a hydrophilic solvent 3025097 7 on a first sample of the tested composition, and on the other hand, a drop of a hydrophobic solvent on a second sample of the same composition tested, and analyze the behavior of the two drops of solvents. In the case of an O / W emulsion, the drop of hydrophilic solvent diffuses into the sample and the drop of hydrophobic solvent remains at the surface of the sample. In the case of an W / O emulsion, the drop of hydrophilic solvent remains on the surface of the sample and the drop of hydrophobic solvent diffuses throughout the sample. Finally, in the case of a gel-type composition (bi-continuous system), the hydrophilic and hydrophobic drops diffuse throughout the sample. In the case of the present invention, the preferred test for distinguishing a gel composition from an emulsion is a dilution test. Indeed, in a gel-like composition, the aqueous and oily gelled domains interpenetrate and form a consistent and stable composition, in which the behavior in water and in oil is different from the behavior of an emulsion. Therefore, the behavior when diluting a gel-like composition (dual-stream system) can be compared to that of an emulsion. More specifically, the dilution test consists in putting 40 g of product and 160 g of dilution solvent (water or oil) in a 500 ml plastic beaker. The dilution is carried out with controlled stirring to avoid any emulsification phenomenon. In particular, this is done using a planetary mixer: Speed Mixer TM DAC400FVZ. The mixer speed is set at 1500 rpm for 4 minutes. Finally, observation of the resulting sample is performed using an optical microscope at a magnification of x100 (x10x10). It can be noted that oils such as Parleam® and Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 5CS® marketed by Dow Corning are suitable as a diluting solvent.

In the case of a gel-like composition (bicontinuous system), when diluted in oil or in water, a heterogeneous appearance is always observed. When a gel-like composition (bicontinuous system) is diluted in water, pieces of oily gel are observed in suspension and when a gel-like composition (bicontinuous system) is diluted in oil, it is observed that pieces of aqueous gel in suspension.

On the contrary, during the dilution, the emulsions exhibit a different behavior. An O / W emulsion, when diluted in an aqueous solvent, gradually reduces without having a heterogeneous and lumpy appearance. This same emulsion 3025097 8 H / E, when diluted with the oil, has a heterogeneous appearance (pieces of O / W emulsion suspended in the oil). W / O emulsion, when diluted with an aqueous solvent, has a heterogeneous appearance (W / O emulsion pieces suspended in water). This same W / O emulsion, when diluted in the oil, is progressively reduced without presenting a heterogeneous and lumpy appearance. According to the present invention, the aqueous gelled phase and the oily gelled phase forming a composition according to the invention are present in an aqueous phase / oily phase weight ratio ranging from 95/5 to 5/95. More preferably, the aqueous phase and the oily phase are present in an aqueous phase / oily phase weight ratio ranging from 30/70 to 80/20. The ratio between the two gelled phases is adjusted according to the desired cosmetic properties. Thus, in the case of a make-up composition, in particular of the face, it may be advantageous to promote an aqueous gelled phase / oily gelled phase weight ratio greater than 1, in particular ranging from 60/40 to 90/10, of preferably ranging from 60/40 to 80/20, preferably from 60/40 to 70/30, and even more preferably to promote an aqueous gelled phase / oil gelled phase weight ratio of 60/40 or 70/30.

These preferred ratios are particularly advantageous for obtaining fresh and light compositions. Advantageously, a composition according to the invention is therefore in the form of a creamy gel having a minimum stress below which it does not flow unless subjected to an external mechanical stress.

As is apparent from the following a composition according to the invention can have a minimum threshold stress of 1.5 Pa and in particular greater than 10 Pa. It can also advantageously have a modulus of rigidity G * of at least 400 Pa. , and preferably greater than 1000 Pa. According to an advantageous variant embodiment, the gelled phases considered for forming a composition according to the invention can respectively have a threshold stress greater than 1.5 Pa, and preferably greater than 10 Pa. .

The characterization of the threshold stresses is performed by oscillation rheology measurements. A methodology is proposed in the exemplification chapter of this text. In general, the corresponding measurements are carried out at 25 ° C. using an imposed stress rheometer, RS600 HAAKE, equipped with a plane-plane measuring body (diameter 60 mm) provided with a anti-evaporation device (bell). For each measurement, the sample is gently placed and the measurements begin 5 minutes after the sample is placed in the gap (2 mm). The tested composition is then subjected to a stress ramp of 10-2 at 102 Pa at a frequency set at 1 Hz.

A composition according to the invention may also have a certain elasticity. This elasticity is characterized by a modulus of rigidity G * which below this minimum stress threshold may be at least equal to 400 Pa, and preferably greater than 1000 Pa. The G * value of a composition can be obtained by subjecting the composition considered at a stress ramp of 10-2 at 102 Pa at a frequency set at 1 Hz.

HYDROPHILIC GELIFIER The term "hydrophilic gelling agent" in the sense of the present invention, a compound capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the compositions according to the invention. The gelling agent is hydrophilic and is therefore present in the aqueous phase of the composition. The composition according to the invention comprises at least one homopolymer of a monomer containing a sulfonic group. The polymers comprising at least one monomer containing a sulfonic group, used in the composition of the invention, are advantageously water-soluble or water-dispersible or swellable in water. The polymers used in accordance with the invention are homopolymers capable of being obtained from at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer containing a sulphonic group, which may be in free form, or partially or totally neutralized. Preferably, the polymers in accordance with the invention may be partially or completely neutralized with a mineral base (sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia) or an organic base such as mono-, di- or tri-ethanolamine, aminomethylpropanediol. , N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds. The term "neutralized" in the present invention means polymers that are totally or substantially completely neutralized, that is to say neutralized to at least 90 ° A. The polymers used in the composition of the invention generally have a number-average molecular weight ranging from 1,000 to 20,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 20,000 to 5,000,000 and even more preferably from 100,000 to 1,500. 000 g / mole.

These polymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked, and are preferably crosslinked. The sulfonic monomer homopolymer may be crosslinked with one or more crosslinking agents. The monomers containing a sulfonic group of the homopolymer used in the composition of the invention are chosen in particular from vinylsulfonic acid, styrene sulphonic acid, (meth) acrylamido (C 1 -C 22) alkylsulphonic acids, N-acids and (C1-C22) alkyl- (meth) acrylamido (C1-C22) alkylsulfonic acid such as undecylacrylamido-methanesulfonic acid, as well as their partially or completely neutralized forms, and mixtures thereof.

According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the monomers containing a sulfonic group are chosen from (meth) acrylamido (C 1 -C 22) alkylsulphonic acids such as, for example, acrylamido-methanesulfonic acid, acrylamido acid and ethanesulfonic acid, acrylamido-propanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butane acid sulphonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamido-dodecylsulphonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid, as well as their partially or completely neutralized forms, and their mixtures. More particularly, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) and its partially or totally neutralized forms are used.

According to one embodiment, a homopolymer of a monomer containing a sulfonic group according to the invention is a homopolymer of acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulphonate of ammonium, crosslinked or uncrosslinked, preferably crosslinked. According to a preferred embodiment, a homopolymer of a sulfonic monomer according to the invention is a crosslinked homopolymer of ammonium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulphonate, preferably of INCI name: Ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide as described in US Pat. EP 0 815 928 B1 and such as the product sold under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS® by the company Clariant. According to one variant, an aqueous phase according to the invention may comprise from 0.1% to 10%, preferably from 0.2% to 8%, more preferably from 0.5% to 6%, and even from 0% to 5% to 5%, by weight of homopolymer solids of a monomer containing sulfonic group relative to its total weight. ADDITIONAL HYDROPHILIC GELIFIER In addition, the present invention may also comprise at least one additional hydrophilic agent other than the homopolymer of a monomer containing a sulfonic group. Of course, said additional hydrophilic agents are used in appropriate levels and conditions so as not to be detrimental to the compositions.

The additional hydrophilic gelling agent may be water-soluble or water-dispersible. The additional hydrophilic gelling agent may be chosen from natural or naturally occurring polymeric gelling agents, synthetic polymeric gelling agents, mixed silicates and pyrogenic silicas, and mixtures thereof.

I. Natural or Naturally Polymeric Gelling Agents Polymeric hydrophilic gelling agents suitable for the invention may be natural or of natural origin. For the purposes of the invention, the expression "of natural origin" means polymeric gelling agents obtained by modifying natural polymeric gelling agents.

These gelling agents may be particulate or non-particulate. For the purposes of the invention, the term "particulate" means that the polymer is in the form of particles, preferably spherical.

More specifically, these gelling agents fall within the category of polysaccharides. In general, the polysaccharides can be distinguished into several categories. Thus the polysaccharides suitable for the invention may be homopolysaccharides such as fructans, glucans, galactans and mannans or heteropolysaccharides such as hemicellulose. Similarly, they may be linear polysaccharides like pullulan or branched in the image of gum arabic and amylopectin, or mixed in the image of starch.

More particularly, the polysaccharides suitable for the invention can be distinguished according to whether they are starchy or non-starchy. As starchy starches, particular mention is made of native starches, modified starches and particulate starches. Examples of non-starch starches are polysaccharides produced by microorganisms such as xanthan, pullulan, dextran and dextran sulphate, succinoglycan, scleroglucan and gellan gum; polysaccharides isolated from algae such as galactans, furcellaran, alginate-based compounds, polysaccharides from higher plants, such as homogeneous polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and its derivatives or fructans, heterogeneous polysaccharides such as gum arabic, galactomannan, guar gum, glucomannan, pectin, and derivatives thereof; and their mixtures. II. Synthetic Polymer Gelling Agents For the purposes of the invention, the term synthetic means that the polymer is neither naturally extant nor derived from a polymer of natural origin. The synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent according to the invention may be particulate or non-particulate. As is apparent from the following, the polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent is advantageously chosen from crosslinked acrylic homopolymers or copolymers; associative polymers, in particular associative polymers of the polyurethane type; polyacrylamides and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, crosslinked and / or neutralized; carboxyvinyl polymers, modified or otherwise, and mixtures thereof, in particular as defined below. II. A. Particulate Synthetic Polymeric Gelling Agents They are preferably selected from cross-linked polymers. It may in particular be crosslinked homopolymers or acrylic copolymers, preferably partially neutralized or neutralized, which are in particulate form.

II. B. Non-particulate synthetic polymeric gelling agents This family of gelling agents can be detailed in the following sub-families: 1. Associative polymers, 2. Polyacrylamides and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, crosslinked and / or neutralized and 3. Modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers. III. Other hydrophilic gelling agents These gelling agents are more particularly chosen from mixed silicates and pyrogenic silicas.

III. A. Mixed Silicate For the purposes of the present invention, mixed silicate is understood to mean all silicates of natural or synthetic origin containing several (two or more) types of cations chosen from alkali metals (for example Na, Li, K) or alkaline earth metals (eg Be, Mg, Ca), transition metals and aluminum. III. B. Hydrophilic Pyrogenic Silica The fumed silicas according to the present invention are hydrophilic. The pyrogenic hydrophilic silicas are obtained by pyrolysis in a continuous flame at 1000 ° C. of silicon tetrachloride (SiC14) in the presence of hydrogen and oxygen.

According to one variant, an aqueous phase according to the invention may comprise from 0.1% to 10%, preferably from 0.2% to 8%, more preferably from 0.5% to 6%, and even from 0% to 10%. , 5% to 5%, by weight of dry matter of additional hydrophilic gelling agent with respect to its total weight.

LIPOPHILIC GELIFIER For the purposes of the present invention, the term "lipophilic gelling agent" is intended to mean a compound capable of gelling the oily phase of the compositions according to the invention. The gelling agent is therefore lipophilic present in the oily phase of the composition. The gelling agent is liposoluble or lipodispersible. As is apparent from the following, the lipophilic gelling agent is advantageously selected from particulate gelling agents, organopolysiloxane elastomers, semi-crystalline polymers, dextrin esters, hydrogen-bonded polymers and mixtures thereof. I. Particulate Gelling Agents The particulate gelling agent used in the composition according to the invention is in the form of particles, preferably spherical.

As representative of the lipophilic particulate gelling agents that are suitable for the invention, polar, polar and apolar waxes, modified clays, silicas such as pyrogenic silicas and hydrophobic silica aerogels may be particularly mentioned. The waxes "Wax" considered in the context of the present invention generally means a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a point of melting greater than or equal to 30 ° C up to 200 ° C and in particular up to 120 ° C. For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the ISO 11357-3 standard; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments. The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20 ° C. to 100 ° C. at a heating rate of 10 ° C./minute. , then cooled from 100 ° C to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / min and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C. ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the wax sample as a function of temperature is measured. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature. The waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes which are solid at room temperature of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof. The waxes, within the meaning of the invention, may be those used generally in the cosmetic or dermatological fields. They may in particular be polar or apolar, silicone and / or fluorinated hydrocarbon compounds, optionally comprising ester or hydroxyl functions. They can also be of natural or synthetic origin. a) Apolar waxes For the purposes of the present invention, the term "apolar wax" is intended to mean a wax whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C as defined below, δa is equal to 0 (J / cm 3) 1 / 4. The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in Hansen's three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C. M. Hansen: "The three dimensional" sohtbility parameters "J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967). According to this Hansen space: 30 - SD characterizes the London dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular shocks; Δp characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles; hh characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.) type; Δa is determined by the equation: δa = ((Sp2 8h2) 1/4 .The parameters δp, δh, 15D and δa are expressed in (J / cm3) 1/4, and apolar waxes are in particular hydrocarbon waxes consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms and free from heteroatoms such as N, O, Si and P.

Apolar waxes are selected from microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, and mixtures thereof. As ozokerite mention may be made of Ozokerite Wax SP 1020 P. As microcrystalline waxes that may be used, mention may be made of Multiwax W 445® marketed by Sonneborn, Microwax HW® and Base Wax 30540® 15 marketed by Paramelt, and Cerewax ® N ° 3 marketed by the company Baerlocher. As microwaxes which can be used in the compositions according to the invention as apolar wax, mention may in particular be made of polyethylene microwires such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 2505® by the company Micro Powders. As polyethylene wax, mention may be made of Performalene 500-L Polyethylene and Performalene 400 Polyethylene marketed by New Phase Technologies, Asensa® SC 211 sold by Honeywell. B) Polar wax For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polar wax" means a wax whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C. δa is other than 0 (J / cm 3) 1/4. In particular, "polar wax" means a wax whose chemical structure is formed essentially or even consisting of carbon atoms and hydrogen, and comprising at least one strongly electronegative heteroatom such as an atom of oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus.

The polar waxes may in particular be hydrocarbon-based, fluorinated or silicone-coated. Preferably, the polar waxes may be hydrocarbon-based. The term "hydrocarbon wax" is intended to mean a wax formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly of oxygen, nitrogen and not containing a silicon atom or of fluorine. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups. By "ester wax" is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one ester function. By "alcohol wax" is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is to say comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group. In particular, it is possible to use as ester wax: ester waxes such as those chosen from: i) waxes of formula RiCOOR 2 in which R 1 and R 2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains whose number of atoms varies from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as O, N or P and whose melting point temperature varies from 25 to 120 ° C. ii) di- (1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene. Iii) diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of the general formula R 3 - (- 000-R 4 -COO-R 5), in which R 3 and R 5 are identical or different, preferably identical and represent a C 4 -C 30 alkyl group ( alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R4 represents a C4-C30 aliphatic group (linear or branched alkyl group comprising 4 to 30 carbon atoms) which may or may not contain one or more unsaturation (s), and linear and unsaturated preference. iv) We may also mention the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched, C 8 -C 32 fatty chains, for example such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, and waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol. (v) beeswax, synthetic beeswax, polyglycerolated beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, lanolin wax, oxypropylene, 3025097 18 rice bran wax, water wax Ouricury, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax, hydrogenated Jojoba wax, sunflower wax, lemon wax, olive wax, berry wax.

In another embodiment, the polar wax may be an alcoholic wax. By "alcohol wax" is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is to say comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group. As alcohol wax, mention may be made, for example, of the wax C30-50 Alcohols Performacol® 550 Alcohol marketed by New Phase Technologie, stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol.

It is also possible to use silicone waxes, which may advantageously be substituted polysiloxanes, preferably at a low melting point. By "silicone wax" is meant an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-O groups. Among the commercial silicone waxes of this type, mention may be made especially of those sold under the names Abilwax 9800, 9801 or 9810 (Goldschmidt), KF910 and KF7002 (Shin Etsu), or 176-1118-3 and 176-11481 (General Electric). The silicone waxes which may be used may also be alkyl or alkoxydimethicones, as well as (C 20 -C 60) alkyl dimethicones, in particular (C 30 -C 45) alkyl dimethicones, such as the silicone wax sold under the name SF-1642 by the company GE-Bayer. Silicones or C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane under the name SW-8005® C30 Resin Wax sold by the company Dow Corning. In the context of the present invention, mention may be made, as particularly advantageous waxes, of polyethylene waxes, jojoba wax, candelilla wax and silicone waxes, in particular candelilla wax. They may be present in the oily phase in a proportion of 0.5% to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the oily phase, for example between 5% and 20% of the oily phase, and more particularly from 2% to 15% by weight. % by weight relative to the weight of the oily phase.

Modified clays The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one lipophilic clay. The clays can be natural or synthetic and are rendered lipophilic by treatment with an alkyl ammonium salt such as a C 10 -C 22 ammonium chloride, for example, di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride. They may be chosen from bentonites, in particular hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites.

Preferably they are selected from hectorites. Preferably, the lipophilic clays used are hectorites modified with a C10 to C22 ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride such as, for example, that sold under the name Bentone 38V® by Elementis or bentone gel in isododecane sold under the name Bentone Gel ISD V® (Isododecane 87% / Disteardimonium Hectorite 10% / Propylene carbonate 3%) by Elementis. Lipophilic clay may in particular be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 10%, more particularly from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight. oily phase.

Silicas The oily phase of a composition according to the invention may also comprise, as gelling agent, fumed silica or silica airgel particles. (a) Pyrogenic silica The hydrophobic silica treated surface-hydrophobic is particularly suitable for the invention. It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a decrease in the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.

The hydrophobic groups may be: trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are referred to as "Silica silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R812® by the company Degussa, CAB-O-SIL TS-530® by Cabot. - Dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R972®, and Aerosil R974® by Degussa, CAB-O-SIL TS-610® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720® by Cabot.

The fumed silicas may be present in a composition according to the present invention at a content of between 0.1% and 40% by weight, more particularly between 1% and 15% by weight and even more particularly between 2% and 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the oily phase. B) Hydrophobic silica aerogels The oily phase of a composition according to the invention may also comprise, as gelling agent, at least silica aerogel particles. Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.

They are generally synthesized by a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then usually dried by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying avoids the contraction of the pores and the material. The sol-gel process and the various dryings are described in detail in Brinker CJ, and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academic Press, 1990.

The hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention have a surface area per unit mass (SM) of from 500 to 1500 m 2 / g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m 2 / g and more preferably from 600 to 1200 m 2 / g. 800 m2 / g, and a size expressed in volume mean diameter (D [0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 μm, better still from 1 to 1000 μm, preferably from 1 to 100 μm, in particular from 1 to 30 μm, more preferably from 5 to 25 μm, more preferably from 5 to 20 μm and even more preferably from 5 to 15 μm. According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention have a size expressed as a volume average diameter (D [0.5]) ranging from 1 to 30 μm, preferably from 5 to 30 μm. 25 iam, better from 5 to 20 μm and even better from 5 to 15 μm. The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method called the BET method (Brunauer-Emmet-Teller) described in "The Journal of the American Chemical Society", vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (Appendix D). The BET surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration. The silica airgel particle sizes can be measured by static light scattering using a MasterSizer 2000 type commercial particle size analyzer from Malvern. The data is processed on the basis of Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" diameter of particles. This theory is particularly described in Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles", Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface per unit mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 / g. The silica airgel particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a packed density p ranging from 0.02 g / cm 3 to 0.10 g / cm 3, preferably from 0.03 g / cm 3 to 0.08 g / cm3, in particular ranging from 0.05 g / cm3 to 0.08 g / cm3. In the context of the present invention, this density can be assessed according to the following protocol, called the packed density: 40 g of powder are poured into a graduated test tube; then the specimen is placed on the STAV 2003 machine from Stampf Volumeter; the test piece is then subjected to a series of 2,500 settlements (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); then the final volume Vf of compacted powder is measured directly on the test piece. The packed density is determined by the ratio m / Vf, in this case 40 / Vf (Vf being expressed in cm3 and m in g). According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per volume unit SV ranging from 5 to 60 m 2 / cm 3, preferably 10 to 50 m 2 / cm 3 and better from 15 to 40 m2 / cm3.

The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the relation: Sv = SM x p; where p is the packed density expressed in g / cm 3 and SM is the specific surface area per unit of mass, expressed in m 2 / g, as defined above. Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles according to the invention have an oil absorption capacity measured at Wet Point ranging from 5 to 18 ml / g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml / g and better still 8 to 12 ml / g. The absorption capacity measured at Wet Point, and denoted by Wp, corresponds to the amount of oil that must be added to 100 g of particles in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.

It is measured according to the so-called Wet Point method or method for determining the setting of powder oil described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the quantity of oil adsorbed on the available surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder by measuring the Wet Point, described below: A quantity m = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate and then the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is added dropwise. After addition of 4 to 5 drops of oil in the powder, mixing is carried out with a spatula and oil is added until the formation of oil and powder conglomerates. From this moment, the oil is added one drop at a time and then triturated with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm and smooth paste is obtained. This paste should be allowed to spread on the glass plate without cracking or lumping. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used is then noted. The oil intake corresponds to the ratio Vs / m. The aerogels used according to the present invention are aerogels of hydrophobic silica, preferably of silylated silica (INCI name: silica silylate).

By "hydrophobic silica" is meant any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example by halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, in order to functionalize the OH groups by Si-Rn silyl groups, for example trimethylsilyl groups.

With respect to the preparation of hydrophobic silica airgel particles surface-modified by silylation, reference can be made to US Pat. No. 7,470,725.

The hydrophobic silica aerogels particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups, preferably INCI Silica silylate, will preferably be used. Examples of hydrophobic silica aerogels that can be used in the invention include, for example, the airgel marketed under the name VM-2260 or VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose the particles have an average size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass of 600 to 800 m 2 / g. There may also be mentioned aerogels marketed by Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201, Aerogel TLD 203, ENOVA Aerogel MT 1100, ENOVA Aerogel MT 1200. The airgel marketed under the trade name VM will preferably be used. 2270 (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per mass unit ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 / g. Preferably, the particles of hydrophobic silica aerogels are present in the composition according to the invention in a dry matter content ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight. weight, preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

II. Organopolysiloxane Elastomer According to one embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises, as lipophilic gelling agent, at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer. The organopolysiloxane elastomer, which can be used as a lipophilic gelling agent, has the advantage of giving the composition according to the invention good application properties. It provides a very soft and matifying after application, especially advantageous for application on the skin. It can also allow an effective filling of the hollows present on the keratin materials. By "organopolysiloxane elastomer" or "silicone elastomer" is meant a flexible, deformable organopolysiloxane having viscoelastic properties and especially the consistency of a sponge or soft sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material resists deformation and has a limited capacity for extension 3025097 24 and contraction. This material is able to recover its original shape after stretching. It is more particularly a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer. Thus, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by addition reaction crosslinking diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen and diorganopolysiloxane having silicon-bonded ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially in the presence of platinum catalyst; or by condensation-crosslinking dehydrogenation reaction between a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen, especially in the presence of an organotin; or by crosslinking condensation reaction of a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a hydrolyzable organopolysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, especially in the presence of organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane by high energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays, electron beam.

Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by addition reaction crosslinking (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B) diorganopolysiloxane having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to a silicon. silicon, especially in the presence (C) of platinum catalyst, as for example described in application EP-A-295886.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane and trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxane in the presence of platinum catalyst.

Compound (A) is the base reagent for the formation of organopolysiloxane elastomer and the crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of catalyst (C). The compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to distinct silicon atoms in each molecule.

Compound (A) may have any molecular structure, including a straight chain or branched chain structure or a ring structure.

The compound (A) can have a viscosity at 25 ° C ranging from 1 to 50,000 centistokes, especially to be well miscible with the compound (B). The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of the compound (A) can be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group. The compound (A) may thus be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxanemethylhydrogensiloxane copolymers and dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane cyclic copolymers. The compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example C2-C4); the lower alkenyl group may be selected from vinyl, allyl, and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located at any position of the organopolysiloxane molecule but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane (B) may have a branched chain, straight chain, cyclic or network structure but the linear chain structure is preferred. The compound (B) may have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to the gum state. Preferably, the compound (B) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25 ° C. In addition to the aforementioned alkenyl groups, the other organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms in the compound (B) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group. The organopolysiloxanes (B) may be chosen from methylvinylpolysiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy dimethylpolysiloxanes, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, methylvinylsiloxane trimethylsiloxy end groups, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxanemethylvinylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) -polysiloxane, and dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) siloxane copolymers; . In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane and trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxane in the presence of platinum catalyst.

Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of the compound (B) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of the compound (A) is at least 5. It is advantageous that the compound (A) is added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of silicon-bonded hydrogen atoms in the compound (A) and the total amount of all ethylenically unsaturated groups in the compound (B) is in the range of 1.5: 1 to 20: 1. Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black, and platinum on support. The catalyst (C) is preferably added from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, more preferably from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of the compounds (A). and B). The elastomer is advantageously a non-emulsifying elastomer.

The term "non-emulsifying" defines organopolysiloxane elastomers which do not contain a hydrophilic chain, and in particular do not contain polyoxyalkylene (especially polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene) units or polyglyceryl units. Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer devoid of polyoxyalkylene units and polyglyceryl units. In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer used in the present invention is selected from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI Name), Dimethicone (and) 3025097 27 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI Name), Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name ), Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3 (INCI name), and in particular Dimethicone Crosspolymer and Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer.

The organopolysiloxane elastomer particles may be transported in the form of a gel consisting of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or a silicone oil. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles are often non-spherical particles. Non-emulsifying elastomers are described in particular in patents EP 242 219, EP 285 886, EP 765 656 and in application JP-A-61-194009. The silicone elastomer is generally in the form of a gel, a paste or a powder, but advantageously in the form of a gel in which the silicone elastomer is dispersed in a linear silicone oil (dimethicone ) or cyclic (eg cyclopentasiloxane), advantageously in a linear silicone oil.

As non-emulsifying elastomers, those sold under the names "KSG-6", "KSG-15", "KSG-16", "KSG-18", "KSG-41", "KSG-42" can more particularly be used. KSG-43, KSG-44, by Shin Etsu, DC9040, DC9041, Dow Corning, SFE 839 by General Electric. According to one particular embodiment, a silicone elastomer gel dispersed in a silicone oil chosen from a non-exhaustive list comprising cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dimethicones, dimethylsiloxanes, methyl trimethicone, phenylmethicone, phenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, and cyclomethicone, is used. preferably a linear silicone oil chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) or dimethicones with a viscosity at 25 ° C. ranging from 1 to 500 cc at 25 ° C., optionally modified with aliphatic groups, optionally fluorinated, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups. Mention may in particular be made of the following INCI name compounds: Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as USG-105 and USG-107A from Shin Etsu; "DC9506" and "DC9701" from Dow Corning, 3025097 28 - Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Dimethicone, such as "KSG-6" and "KSG-16" from Shin Etsu; Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Cyclopentasiloxane, such as "KSG-15"; 5 - Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "DC9040", "DC9045" and "DC5930" from Dow Corning; Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "DC9041" from Dow Corning; Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as Dow Corning EL-9240 Silicone Elastomer Blend from Dow Corning (a mixture of polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked with hexadiene / polydimethyl siloxane (2 cSt)); - C4-24 Alkyl Dimethicone / DivinylDimethicone Crosspolymer, such as NuLastic Silk MA by the company Alzo.

As examples of silicone elastomers dispersed in a linear silicone oil which can advantageously be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of the following references: Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Dimethicone, such as "KSG-6" and " KSG-16 "from Shin Etsu; Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "DC9041" from Dow Corning; and Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as Dow Corning EL-9240 Silicone Elastomer Blend from Dow Corning (Hexadiene / Polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polydimethylsiloxane (2 cSt)).

According to one preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one crosslinked silicone elastomer of INCI name "dimethicone crosspolymer" or "dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer", with a dimethicone having a viscosity ranging from 1 to 100 cst. in particular from 1 to 10 cc at 25 ° C, such as the mixture of hexadiene / polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polydimethylsiloxane (5cst) sold under the name DC 9041 by the company Dow Corning or the mixture of 3025097 29 Polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked with Hexadiene / Polydimethylsiloxane (2cst) sold under the name El-9240® by Dow Corning. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one crosslinked silicone elastomer of the INCI name "dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer", preferably with a dimethicone of viscosity ranging from 1 to 100 cSt, in particular from 1 to 10 cst at 25 ° C, such as the mixture of polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked with hexadiene / polydimethylsiloxane (5cst) sold under the name DC 9041 by Dow Corning. The organopolysiloxane elastomer particles may also be used in the form of a powder, in particular mention may be made of the powders sold under the names "Dow Corning 9505 Powder" and "Dow Corning 9506 Powder" by the company Dow Corning. These powders have the following properties: for INCI name: dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer. The organopolysiloxane powder may also be coated with silsesquioxane resin as described, for example, in US Patent 5,538,793. Said silicone elastomer particles are preferably spherical with an average size ranging from 0.1 to 500 μm, preferably from 3 to 200 μm and better still from 10 to 20 μm. They may have a JIS-A hardness of less than or equal to 80 (in particular ranging from 5 to 80), and preferably less than or equal to 65 (in particular ranging from 5 to 65). The hardness JIS-A is measured according to the method JIS K 6301 (1995) established by the Japanese Industrial Standards Committee. The silicone elastomer powders coated with a silicone resin of the invention are also described in the applications JP-A 61-194009, EP-A 242219, EP-A 295886 and EP-A 765656. elastomers are sold under the names "KSP-100", "KSP-101", "KSP-102", "KSP-103", "KSP-104", "KSP-105" by the company Shin Etsu, and have for INCI name: vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane Crosspolymer.

As examples of organopolysiloxane powders coated with silsesquioxane resin which can advantageously be used according to the invention, there may be mentioned especially the reference "KSP-100" from Shin Etsu.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one crosslinked silicone elastomer, preferably of the INCI name: vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, as oily gelling agent and / or blooming filler, preferably oily gelling agent and a bland load.

As the preferred lipophilic gelling agent of the organopolysiloxane elastomer type, cross-linked organopolysiloxane elastomers selected from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer may be mentioned. (INCI name), Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3 (INCI name), and in particular Dimethicone Crosspolymer and Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, more preferably Dimethicone Crosspolymer. The organopolysiloxane elastomer may be present in a composition of the present invention at a content of between 5% and 60% by weight of active (dry) material, in particular between 10% and 50% by weight, of preferably between 15% and 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase. The organopolysiloxane elastomer may be present in a composition of the present invention at a content of between 0.2% and 25% by weight of active ingredient (dry), in particular between 1% and 10% by weight. , relative to the total weight of the composition. III. Semi-crystalline polymers The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one semicrystalline polymer. Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymer has an organic structure, and a melting temperature greater than or equal to 30 ° C. For the purposes of the invention, the term "semi-crystalline polymer" is intended to mean polymers comprising a crystallizable part and an amorphous part and having a first-order reversible phase change temperature, in particular melting (solid-liquid transition). ). The crystallizable portion is either a side chain (or pendant chain) or a sequence in the backbone.

When the crystallizable portion of the semi-crystalline polymer is a sequence of the polymer backbone, this crystallizable block is of a different chemical nature from that of the amorphous blocks; in this case, the semicrystalline polymer is a block copolymer, for example of the diblock, triblock or multiblock type. When the crystallizable portion 5 is a chain pendant to the backbone, the semi-crystalline polymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer. The melting temperature of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably less than 150 ° C. The melting temperature of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably greater than or equal to 30 ° C and less than 100 ° C. More preferably, the melting temperature of the semi-crystalline polymer is greater than or equal to 30 ° C and less than 70 ° C. The semi-crystalline polymer (s) according to the invention used are solids at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), whose melting temperature is greater than or equal to 30 ° C. The melting point values correspond to the melting point measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the Mettler company, with a temperature increase of 5%. or 10 ° C per minute (The melting point considered is the point corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the thermogram). The semi-crystalline polymer (s) according to the invention preferably have a melting point higher than the temperature of the keratinous support intended to receive said composition, in particular the skin or the lips. According to the invention, the semi-crystalline polymers are advantageously soluble in the fatty phase, especially at least 1% by weight, at a temperature above their melting point. Apart from the crystallizable chains or blocks, the sequences of the polymers are amorphous. By "chain or crystallizable block" is meant, in the sense of the invention, a chain or sequence which, if it were alone, would pass from the amorphous state to the crystalline state, reversibly, depending on whether it is above or below below the melting temperature. A chain within the meaning of the invention is a group of atoms, pendant or lateral with respect to the backbone of the polymer. A sequence is a group of atoms belonging to the backbone, a group constituting one of the repeating units of the polymer.

Preferably, the polymeric backbone of the semi-crystalline polymers is soluble in the fatty phase at a temperature above their melting temperature. Preferably, the crystallizable sequences or chains of the semicrystalline polymers represent at least 30% of the total weight of each polymer and better still at least 40%. Crystallizable side-chain semi-crystalline polymers are homo- or co-polymers. The semicrystalline polymers of the invention with crystallizable sequences are copolymers, sequenced or multiblocked. They can be obtained by reactive (or ethylenic) double bond monomer polymerization or by polycondensation. When the polymers of the invention are crystallizable side chain polymers, the latter are advantageously in random or random form. Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers of the invention are of synthetic origin. According to a preferred embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer is chosen from: homopolymers and copolymers comprising units resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers carrying a hydrophobic side chain (s) cri stalli sand (s), - polymers carrying at least one crystallizable block in the backbone, - polyester, aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic / aromatic polycondensates, - ethylene-propylene copolymers prepared by metallocene catalysis, and acrylate / silicone copolymers.

The semicrystalline polymers which can be used in the invention can be chosen in particular from: - block copolymers of controlled crystallization polyolefins, the monomers of which are described in EP 0 951 897, polycondensates and in particular of the aliphatic polyester type or aromatic or aliphatic / aromatic, copolymers of ethylene and propylene prepared by metallocene catalysis, homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain and homopolymers or copolymers carrying in the skeleton at least one crystallizable block, such as those described in US Pat. No. 5,156,911, such as the (Cio-C30) alkyl polyacrylates corresponding to Intelimer® from Landec, described in the brochure "Intelimere polymers", Landec IP22 (Rev. 4- 97) and for example the product Intelimer® IPA 13-1 from Landec, which is a stearyl polyacrylate with a molecular weight of about 145,000. 0 and whose melting temperature is equal to 49 ° C., homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain, in particular with fluorinated group (s), as described in document WO 01 / 19333, acrylate / silicone copolymers, such as copolymers of acrylic acid and stearyl acrylate with polydimethylsiloxane grafts, copolymers of polydimethylsiloxane grafted stearyl methacrylate, copolymers of acrylic acid and stearyl methacrylate with polydimethylsiloxane grafts, copolymers of methyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, ethyl-2-hexyl acrylate and stearyl methacrylate with polydimethylsiloxane grafts. Mention may in particular be made of the copolymers sold by the company SHIN-ETSU under the names KP-561 (CTFA name: acrylates / dimethicone), KP-541 (CTFA name: acrylates / dimethicone and isopropyl alcohol), KP-545 (name: CTFA: acrylates / dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane), and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the amount of semicrystalline polymer (s), preferably selected from semicrystalline crystallizable side chain polymers, is from 0.1% to 30% by weight of dry matter by weight. total of the oily phase, for example from 0.5% to 25% by weight, better still from 5% to 20%, or from 5% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase. IV. Dextrin Esters The composition according to the invention may comprise, as lipophilic gelling agent, at least one dextrin ester.

In particular, the composition preferably comprises at least one ester of dextrin and fatty acid, preferably C 12 to C 24, in particular C 14 to C 18, or mixtures thereof. Preferably, the dextrin ester is a C12-C18, especially C14-C18, fatty acid dextrin ester. Preferably, the dextrin ester is selected from dextrin myristate and / or dextrin palmitate, and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the dextrin ester is dextrin myristate, such as that sold especially under the name Rheopearl MKL-2 by Chiba Flour Milling. According to a preferred embodiment, the dextrin ester is dextrin palmitate. This may for example be chosen from those sold under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL® or Rheopearl® KL2 by the company Chiba Flour Milling.

In a particularly preferred manner, the oily phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1% to 30% by weight of dextrin ester (s), preferably from 2% to 25% and preferably from 7.5% to 17% by weight, based on the total weight of the oily phase. In a particularly preferred manner, the composition according to the invention may comprise between 0.1% and 10% by weight of dextrin palmitate, preferably between 0.5% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase. . Dextrin palmitate may in particular be that marketed under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL® or Rheopearl® KL2 by the company Chiba Flour Milling.

V. Hydrogen-Bonded Polymers Representative of the hydrogen-bonded polymers suitable for the invention may be very particularly polyamides and in particular hydrocarbon polyamides and silicone polyamides.

Polyamides The oily phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one polyamide chosen from hydrocarbon polyamides, silicone polyamides, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the total content of polyamide (s) is between 0.1% and 30% by weight, expressed as dry matter, preferably between 0.1% and 20% by weight, preferably between 0.5% by weight. and 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the oily phase. For the purposes of the invention, the term "polyamide" means a compound having at least 2 amide repeating units, preferably at least 3 amide repeating units and more preferably 10 amide repeating units. a) Hydrocarbon Polyamide The term "hydrocarbon-based polyamide" is intended to mean a polyamide formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon atom or fluorine atom. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups. For the purposes of the invention, the term "functionalized chain" means an alkyl chain comprising one or more functional groups or reactive groups chosen in particular from hydroxyl, ether, esters, oxyalkylene or polyoxyalkylene groups.

Advantageously, this polyamide of the composition according to the invention has a weight average molecular weight of less than 100,000 g / mol, especially ranging from 1,000 to 100,000 g / mol, in particular less than 50,000 g / mol, especially from From 1,000 to 30,000 g / mol, preferably from 2,000 to 20,000 g / mol, and more preferably from 2,000 to 10,000 g / mol.

This polyamide is insoluble in water, especially at 25 ° C. According to a first embodiment of the invention, the polyamide used is a polyamide of formula (I): ## STR1 ## in which X represents a group -N ( R1) 2 or a group -OR 'in which R1 is a linear or branched Cg to C22 alkyl radical, which may be the same or different from each other, R2 is a diacid dimer residue of C28- C42, R3 is an ethylene diamine radical, n is 2 to 5; and their mixtures.

According to a particular embodiment, the polyamide used is an amide-terminated polyamide of formula (Ia): Cll-la; In which X represents a group -N (R 1) 2 in which R 1 is a linear or branched C 8 to C 22 alkyl radical, which may be identical to or different from each other, R 2 10 is a C 28 -C 42 diacid dimer residue, R 3 is an ethylene diamine radical, n is 2 to 5; and their mixtures. The oily phase of a composition according to the invention may furthermore additionally comprise, in this case, at least one additional polyamide of formula (m): ## STR1 ## in which wherein X represents a group -OR 'in which R1 is a linear or branched Cg to C22, preferably C16 to C22, alkyl radical which may be the same or different from each other, R2 is a dimer residue diacid C28-C42, R3 is an ethylene diamine radical, n is between 2 and 5, such as commercial products sold by Arizona Chemical under the names Uniclear 80 and Uniclear 100 or Uniclear 80 V, Uniclear 100 V and Uniclear 100 VG, whose INCI name is "ethylenediamine / stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer". B) Silicone Polyamide Silicone polyamides are preferably solid at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). The silicone polyamides may preferentially be polymers comprising at least one unit of formula (III) or (IV): ## STR2 ## in which: R4, R5, R6 and R7, which are identical or different, represent a group chosen from: linear or branched or cyclic hydrocarbon groups, in C 1 to C 40, saturated or unsaturated, which may contain in their chain one or more atoms of oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen, and may be substituted in part or totally by fluorine atoms, - C6-C10 aryl groups, optionally substituted with one or more C1-C4 alkyl groups; polyorganosiloxane chains which may or may not contain one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, the Xs, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched C1 to C30 alkylene di-yl group which may contain in its entirety chain one or more oxygen and / or nitrogen atoms, Y is a divalent linear or branched alkylene, arylene, cycloalkylene, alkylarylene or arylalkylene, saturated or unsaturated, C1 to C50 group, which may comprise one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, and or substitute one of the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxy, C3 to C8 cycloalkyl, C1 to C40 alkyl, C5 to C10 aryl, phenyl optionally substituted with 1 to 3 alkyl groups C1 to C3, C1 to C3 hydroxyalkyl and C1 to C6 aminoalkyl, or Y is a group corresponding to the formula: R8 _T // 5 wherein - T represents a linear or branched, trivalent or tetravalent hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated C3-C24 optionally substituted by a polyorganosiloxane chain, and which may contain one or more atoms selected from O, N and S, or T represents a trivalent atom selected from N, P and Al, and 10 -R8 represents an alkyl group in C1 to C50, linear or branched, or a polyorganosiloxane chain, which may comprise one or more ester, amide, urethane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and / or sulphonamide groups which may or may not be bound to another polymer chain, n is an integer ranging from 2 at 500, preferably from 2 to 200 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 1000, preferably from 1 to 700 and more preferably from 6 to 200. According to a particular embodiment, the silicone polyamide comprises at least one unit of formula (III) where m is from 50 to 200, in particular from 75 to 150, and preferably of the order of 100. More preferably, R 4, R 5, R 6 and R 7 independently represent a C 1 to C 6 alkyl group. C40, linear or branched, preferably CH3, C2H5, n-C3H7 or isopropyl in formula (III). As an example of a silicone polymer that can be used, mention may be made of one of the silicone polyamides obtained according to Examples 1 to 3 of US Pat. No. 5,981,680.

The compounds sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 2-8179 (DP 100) and DC 2-8178 (DP 15) whose INCI name is "Nylon611 / dimethicone copolymers", that is to say Nylon-611 / dimethicone copolymers. The silicone polymers and / or copolymers advantageously have a transition temperature of the solid state in the liquid state ranging from 45 ° C. to 190 ° C. Preferably, they have a solid state transition temperature in the liquid state of 70 ° C to 130 ° C and more preferably 80 ° C to 105 ° C. Preferably, the total content of polyamide (s) and / or silicone polyamide (s) is between 0.5% and 25% by weight of dry matter, in particular from 2% to 20% by weight. preferably between 2% and 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the oily phase. Advantageously, the hydrogen-bonded polymer is chosen from ethylene diamine / stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer and nylon-611 / dimethicone copolymers. According to an advantageous variant, a composition according to the invention comprises a lipophilic gelling agent chosen from particulate gelling agents, organopolysiloxane elastomers, semi-crystalline polymers, dextrin esters, hydrogen-bonded polymers and mixtures thereof, and in particular at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer. HYDROPHILIC (S) / GELIFYING (S) LIPOPHILY (S) GELING SYSTEM (FR) As preferred lipophilic gelling agents of the organopolysiloxane elastomer type, mention may be made more particularly of cross-linked organopolysiloxane elastomers chosen from Dimethicone Crosspolymers (French name). INCI), Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3 (INCI name), and in particular Dimethicone Crosspolymer (Nom INCI) and Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name). According to one preferred embodiment, preferred lipophilic gelling agents that may be mentioned more particularly include a silicone elastomer gel dispersed in a silicone oil and / or an organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with silsesquioxane resin.

According to one preferred embodiment, preferred lipophilic gelling agents include, in particular, mixtures of silsesquioxane resin-coated organopolysiloxane elastomer powder 3025097 and organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with hydrophilic silsesquioxane resin. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, as preferred lipophilic gelling agent, at least one crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silsesquioxane resin, in particular INCI name: vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, such that the reference "KSP-100" sold by the company Shin Etsu and possibly a Dimethicone Crosspolymer. By way of non-limiting illustration, hydrophilic gelling / gelling agent (s) systems which are particularly suitable for the invention may in particular be mentioned as the copolymer system of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid. Crosspolymer organopolysiloxane elastomer (s) with optional Dimethicone Crosspolymer. Thus, a composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise as hydrophilic gelling (s) -gelling (s) system (s) a crosslinked homopolymer system of ammonium acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulphonate-powder. crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane coated with silsesquioxane resin, in particular vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane Crosspolymer with optionally Dimethicone Crosspolymer.

FLUENT EFFECT LOADS As stated above, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least two blooming fillers, these two blooming fillers being a crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silsesquioxane resin and a crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder. coated with hydrophilic silicone resin. The crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with hydrophilic silicone resin is generally said to be "hydrophilic treated", that is to say treated to make it hydrophilic. Advantageously, in order to render the cross-linked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder cured with silicone resin hydrophilic, the latter is subjected to a treatment aimed at associating therewith at least one cationic polymer and advantageously at least one nonionic or cationic surfactant. The cationic polymer with optionally the surfactant (s) and the crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder may be combined by chemical bonds or by interactions, in particular by van der Waals bonds. In particular, the crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder 5 coated with hydrophilic treated silicone resin is combined with at least one cationic polymer, preferably a quaternary ammonium polymer, in particular a polymer of INCI name "Polyquaternium" and optionally with at least one C 8 -C 22 fatty acid ester and polyoxyethylenated polyol, preferably 2 to 20 moles of EO such as C 8 -C 18 fatty acid esters and polyoxyethylenated glycerol of 3 to 15 moles of EO, Preferably a polyoxyethylenated C8-C18 glycol ester, more preferably a C8-C18 fatty acid ester and polyoxyethylenated glycerol of 5 to 10 moles of OE. According to one embodiment, the crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with hydrophilic treated silicone resin according to the invention is combined with at least one quaternary ammonium polymer, preferably chosen from polyquaternium-6 and polyquaternium-7. , preferentially polyquaternium-7. Polyquaternium-6 is a poly (diallyldimethylammonium chloride). Polyquaternium 7 is a copolymer of acrylamide and diallyldimethylammonium chloride. Advantageously, the crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder 20 coated with silsesquioxane resin used as a blooming filler in the compositions according to the invention corresponds to the INCI name: vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane Crosspolymer and in particular it is sold under the reference "KSP -100 "by the company Shin Etsu. Advantageously, the crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with hydrophilic treated silicone resin, used as a blooming filler in the compositions according to the invention corresponds to the INCI name Vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer treated with PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate Polyquaternium-7 and methylsilanol tri-PEG-8 glyceryl cocoate and in particular it is sold under the reference "MW-SRP-100" by the company Miyoshi Kasei.

According to an alternative embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.2% to 40% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 37% by weight, in particular from 5% to 15% by weight. of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silicone resin, in particular vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane Crosspolymer relative to the total weight of said composition.

According to an alternative embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.2% to 40% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 37% by weight, preferably from 2% to 35%, and advantageously from 5% to 20% by weight of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with hydrophilic treated silicone resin, in particular vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer treated with PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, Polyquaternium-7 and methylsilanol tri-PEG-8 glyceryl cocoate, relative to the total weight of said composition. According to an alternative embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.2% to 40% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 37% by weight, preferably from 2% to 35%, and advantageously from 10% to 35% by weight. % to 30% by weight of blooming filler (s) relative to the total weight of said composition. In the composition according to the invention, the cross-linked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silsesquioxane resin, in particular the vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, is present in the gelled oily phase and the cross-linked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silsesquioxane resin. Hydrophilic, in particular vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer treated with PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, Polyquaternium-7 and methylsilanol tri-PEG-8 glyceryl cocoate, is present in the gelled aqueous phase. According to one advantageous variant embodiment, the blooming filler: the cross-linked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silsesquioxane resin such as vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane Crosspolymer also plays the role of lipophilic gelling agent. According to this advantageous variant, the cross-linked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silsesquioxane resin, such as vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, is preferably present in a content ranging from 5% to 15% by weight, preferably 7% by weight. at 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

This type of charge is particularly advantageous insofar as it makes it possible to blur the imperfections. As indicated above, the performance of these fillers is advantageously increased thanks to their use in a composition according to the invention.

The blur effect is characterized by Haze and transparency measurements (TH transmission). The "Haze" corresponds to the percentage of scattered light relative to the total transmittance according to ASTM Standard 1003 (Standard Test Method for Haze and Luminous Transmittance of Transparent Plastics). Composition films were applied to 50 μm polyethylene (PE) films. The film is then measured after one hour of drying at room temperature. Finally, the film is placed in the camera and transparency and Haze measurements are made. In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises: at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, said hydrophilic gelling agent being a homopolymer of a monomer containing a sulphonic group, preferably a crosslinked homopolymer of acrylamido-2 ammonium propane ammonium sulfonate; and at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent; Said phases forming a macroscopically homogeneous mixture therein; said composition further comprising at least two blooming fillers, said two blooming fillers being a crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silsesquioxane resin and a crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with hydrophilic silicone resin, and characterized in that the Haze and the TH transmission are respectively greater than or equal to 75 according to ASTM D 1003 (Standard Test Method for Haze and Luminous Transmittance of Transparent Plastics). Of course, as indicated hereinafter, the compositions according to the invention may further contain additional blooming fillers and / or conventional fillers, it being understood that the person skilled in the art will take care not to select 3025097 44 fillers whose nature or quantity in the composition would impact the blooming effect of the bloomer fillers. In addition, the present invention may also comprise at least one additional blooming effect filler other than the cross-linked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silsesquioxane resin and the crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silicone resin. hydrophilic treated.

Of course these additional fillers are used in appropriate levels and conditions so as not to be detrimental to the compositions. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "charges" is understood to mean colorless or white, solid particles of any shape, of a mineral or organic nature, whether natural or synthetic, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. The fuzziness fillers that may be used in the composition according to the invention are in particular characterized by a refractive index of between 1.33 and 2. They will generally comprise or consist of particles having a lower average size. or equal to 25 μm, in particular less than or equal to 20 μm, in particular less than or equal to 15 μm. "Number average size", refers to the dimension given by the statistical particle size distribution at half of the population, referred to as the measured D50. at Malvern-Mastersizer.

These particles can be of any shape and in particular be spherical or nonspherical. The said blooming fillers or fillers are present in whole or in part, and preferably only, in the gelled aqueous phase or are present in whole or in part, and preferably only, in the gelled oily phase.

In particular, the blooming filler is selected from polytetrafluoroethylene powders, polyurethane powders, carnauba microwaxes, synthetic wax microwaxes, silicone resin powders, hollow hemispherical silicone particles 3025097, powders acrylic copolymers, expanded vinylidene / acrylonitrile / methylene methacrylate microspheres, polyethylene powders, in particular comprising at least one ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer, polymethyl methacrylate powders, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders, powders, of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane coated with silicone resin, starch powders, polyamide powders, silica and silica powders, in particular alumina powders, hydrophobic airgel particles, talc of lower average size or equal to 3 microns, the silica / TiO 2 composites, the sulfa particles Barium nitrate, boron nitride particles, surface-treated silica particles with 1 to 2% mineral wax, amorphous silica microspheres, silica micro-beads, talc / TiO2 / alumina composite powders silica, silicone elastomers, spherical cellulose beads, and mixtures thereof. According to one embodiment, the one or more blooming fillers are present in whole or in part, and preferably only, in the gelled aqueous phase.

According to another embodiment, the one or more blooming fillers are present in whole or in part, and preferably only, in the gelled oily phase. According to another embodiment, the composition comprises a blooming filler in the gelled aqueous phase and a second blooming filler in the oily phase, the latter also being able to act as an oily gelling agent.

In particular, when the blooming agent filler also acts as an oily gelling agent, then it is present in a content ranging from 5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 7 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to another embodiment, in a composition according to the invention, the filler (s) with a blooming effect are distinct from the oily gelling agent (s).

A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.2% to 40% by weight, especially from 0.5% to 37% by weight, in particular from 0.75% to 35% by weight and preferably 1%. at 30% by weight of charge (s) with a blooming effect, relative to the total weight of said composition.

Aqueous phase The aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.

By "water-soluble solvent" is meant in the present invention a liquid compound at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure). The water-soluble solvents which can be used in the composition of the invention can moreover be volatile. Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition in accordance with the invention, there may be mentioned lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms. carbon such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, C3 and C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes. The aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible solvent) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 5% to 95%, better still from 30% to 80% by weight, preferably from 40% to 75% by weight. by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

According to another variant embodiment, the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one C2-C32 polyol. By "polyol" is meant for the purposes of the present invention, any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Preferably, a polyol according to the present invention is present in liquid form at room temperature. A polyol that is suitable for the invention may be a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl compound, saturated or unsaturated, bearing at least two -OH functions on the alkyl chain, in particular at least three -OH functions, and more particularly at minus four functions -OH.

The polyols which are particularly suitable for the formulation of a composition according to the present invention are those having in particular from 2 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 16 carbon atoms. Advantageously, the polyol may be, for example, chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3-propane diol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, such as oligomers of glycerol such as diglycerol, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said polyol is chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof. In a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention may comprise at least propylene glycol. According to another particular embodiment, the composition of the invention may comprise at least glycerol. Oily phase For the purposes of the invention, an oily phase comprises at least one oil. The term "oil" means any fatty substance in liquid form at ambient temperature at atmospheric pressure. An oily phase suitable for the preparation of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated or otherwise, or mixtures thereof. The oils may be volatile or non-volatile. They can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. According to one variant embodiment, the oils of plant origin are preferred. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-volatile oil" means an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group. The term "fluorinated oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

The term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms. The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acidic radicals.

By "volatile oil" is meant, within the meaning of the invention, any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at 3025097 ambient temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, especially having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa ( 101 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg); mm Hg). Volatile oils Volatile oils can be hydrocarbon or silicone. Among the volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, mention may be made especially of C 8 -C 16 branched alkanes, for example C 8 -C 16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane and the like. isohexadecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or permetyls, branched C8-C16 esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, in particular from isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and is especially isohexadecane. It is also possible to mention volatile linear alkanes comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms, for example such as n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (Cii) and of n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of the application WO 2008/155059 from Cognis, and mixtures thereof. Silicone volatile oils that may be mentioned include linear silicone volatile oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane. Cyclic silicone volatile oils that may be mentioned include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.

Non-volatile oils Non-volatile oils may, in particular, be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, fluorinated oils and / or non-volatile silicone oils. Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that may especially be mentioned include: - hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, - hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicapryl ether, - synthetic esters, such as the oils of formula R 1 COROR 2, in which R 1 represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular, a branched chain containing from 1 to 40 atoms of carbon provided R1 + R2 is 10. The esters may be, in particular, selected from alcohol and fatty acid esters, such as, for example, cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, such as lactate. isostearyl, the hydroxystearate Examples include octyl alcohol, ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, esters of isononanoic acid, and the like. isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, - polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate, - branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, C12-C22 higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof, non-phenyl silicone oils, for example caprylyl methycone, and phenyl silicone oils, for example phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones or phenyltrimethylamines. siloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyltrimethicone of lower viscosity or 3025097 equal to 100 cSt, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, and mixtures thereof; as well as the mixtures of these different oils. Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises volatile and / or nonvolatile silicone oils.

A composition according to the invention may comprise from 5% to 95% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 7% to 35% by weight of oil (s) relative to the total weight of said composition. As specified above, the gelled oily phase according to the invention may have a threshold stress greater than 1.5 Pa and preferably greater than 10 Pa. This threshold stress value reflects a gel-like texture of this oily phase.

COLORING USES A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one particulate or non-particulate matter, water-soluble or not, and preferably at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. For obvious reasons, this quantity is likely to vary significantly with regard to the intensity of the desired color effect and the color intensity provided by the dyestuffs considered and its adjustment is clearly within the competence of the man of the art.

A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 25% by weight, in particular from 1% to 20% by weight, and preferably from 2.5% by weight. % to 15% by weight of dyestuffs, relative to the total weight of said composition. As stated above, the dyestuffs suitable for the invention may be water-soluble but also fat-soluble. For the purposes of the invention, the term "water-soluble dyestuff" means any generally organic compound, natural or synthetic, soluble in an aqueous phase, or water-miscible and colorable solvents. As water-soluble dyes that are suitable for the invention, synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes, such as, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30 can be mentioned. DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 3025097 51 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beet), carmine , copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianin, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin. Water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice and caramel. For the purposes of the invention, the term "liposoluble coloring matter" means any generally organic compound, natural or synthetic, soluble in an oily phase, or solvents miscible with a fatty substance and capable of coloring. As fat-soluble dyes that are suitable for use in the invention, liposoluble, synthetic or natural dyes, such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow may be mentioned. 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, carotenes (13-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan Brown, yellow quinoline, annatto, curcumin.

The coloring particulate materials may be present in an amount of 0.01% to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition containing them. It may especially be pigments, pearlescent agents and / or particles with metallic reflections.

By "pigments" are meant white or colored, mineral or organic particles, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the composition containing them. A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 25% by weight, in particular from 1% to 25% by weight, and preferably from 2.5% by weight. % to 15% by weight of pigments, relative to the total weight of said composition. Preferably, when the composition according to the invention is a makeup composition, it may comprise at least 2.5%, and preferably at least 10% by weight of pigments, relative to the total weight of said composition.

The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic. As inorganic pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of oxides or dioxides of titanium, zirconium or cerium, as well as oxides of zinc, iron or chromium, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate, and mixtures thereof. It may also be a pigment having a structure which may for example be sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica. Such a pigment is marketed for example under the reference Coverleaf NS or JS by the company Chemicals And Catalysts and has a contrast ratio of about 30. It may also be pigments having a structure that can be, for example, of type microspheres of silica containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is that marketed by Miyoshi under the reference PC Ball PC-LL-100P, this pigment consisting of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide. Advantageously, the pigments according to the invention are iron oxides and / or titanium dioxides.

By "nacres", it is necessary to include colored particles of any shape, iridescent or otherwise, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized, and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference. A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0% to 15% by weight of nacres, relative to the total weight of said composition.

The nacres may be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica. covered with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs. Mention may also be made, by way of example of nacres, of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride. Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of the nacres Timica, 30 Flamenco and Duochrome (based on mica) sold by the company Engelhard, the nacres Timiron marketed by the company Merck, the nacres on the basis of mica 3025097 53 Prestige marketed by the company Eckart and the nacres based on Sunshine synthetic mica sold by the company Sun Chemical. The nacres may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection.

Advantageously, the nacres according to the invention are micas coated with titanium dioxide or iron oxide and bismuth oxychloride. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "particles with a metallic sheen" means any compound whose nature, size, structure and surface state allows it to reflect the incident light, in particular in a non-iridescent manner. The particles with a metallic sheen that can be used in the invention are in particular chosen from: particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative; particles comprising a substrate, organic or inorganic, monomaterial or multimaterial, at least partially covered by at least one metal-reflecting layer comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative; and - mixtures of said particles. Among the metals that may be present in said particles, mention may be made, for example, of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te. Se and their mixtures or alloys. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof (eg, bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals. The term "metal derivatives" denotes compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulphides. By way of illustration of these particles, mention may be made of aluminum particles, such as those sold under the names Starbrite 1200 EAC® by the company Siberline and Metalure® by the company Eckart, and glass particles coated with a metal layer. especially those described in JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.

Hydrophobic treatment of dyestuffs The pulverulent dyestuffs as described above may be surface-treated, totally or partially, with a hydrophobic agent, to make them more compatible with the oily phase of the composition of the invention, especially for they have good wettability with oils. Thus, these treated pigments are well dispersed in the oily phase. Hydrophobic treated pigments are in particular described in document EP-A-1086683. The hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from silicones such as methicones, dimethicones and perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; perfluoroalkyl phosphates; hexafluoropropylene polyoxides; perfluoropolyethers; amino acids; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, isostearyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof. The term alkyl mentioned in the compounds mentioned above denotes in particular an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms. Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to one or more filler (s) with a blooming effect, one or more filler (s) conventionally used in skincare and / or makeup compositions. These ancillary charges are colorless or solid white particles of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. Of mineral or organic nature, natural or synthetic, they make it possible to give the composition containing them softness, dullness and uniformity to make-up. In particular, such additional charges may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content of between 0.5% and 10% by weight, in particular between 0.5% and 7% by weight, in particular between 0% by weight. , 5% and 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment of the invention, a composition may further comprise at least solid particles such as pigments and / or additional charges. Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 25% by weight, especially from 0.1% to 25% by weight, in particular from 1% to 20% by weight and preferably 5% by weight. at 15% by weight of solid particles, relative to the total weight of the composition. DISPERSANT AGENT Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may further comprise a dispersing agent. Such a dispersing agent may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several of them. According to one particular embodiment, a dispersing agent according to the invention is a surfactant. According to a particular variant embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 1% by weight of surfactant relative to the total weight of the composition, even is devoid of surfactant. ACTIVE For a particular care application, a composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one moisturizing agent (also called humectant). Preferably, the moisturizing agent is glycerin. The moisturizing agent (s) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, especially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, or even from 1% to 6% by weight, by relative to the total weight of said composition. Other active agents which may be used in the composition of the invention include, for example, vitamins, sunscreens and mixtures thereof. Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one active ingredient. It falls within the routine operations of those skilled in the art to adjust the nature and the quantity of the additives present in the compositions according to the invention. so that the desired cosmetic properties of these are not affected.

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a skincare composition for the body or face, in particular the face. According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a makeup base composition for makeup. According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a foundation. According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a makeup composition for the skin and in particular the face. It can be an eyeshadow or a blush. According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a lip product, especially a lipstick. According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may be in the form of a product for the eyelashes, in particular a mascara. Such compositions are especially prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art. Throughout the description, including the claims, the phrase "having one" should be understood as being synonymous with "having at least one", unless the contrary is specified. Expressions "between ... and ..." and "from ... to ..." must be understood as inclusive terms unless otherwise specified. The invention is further illustrated by the following examples and figures. Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities indicated are expressed as a percentage by mass.

3025097 57 METHODOLOGY FOR DYNAMIC OSCILLATION RHEOLOGY MEASUREMENTS These are harmonic rheological measurements that measure the elastic modulus.

The measurements are carried out using a Haake RS600 rheometer on a product at rest, at 25 ° C. with a plane plane 60 mm mobile and a gap of 2 mm. The measurements in harmonic regime make it possible to characterize the viscoelastic properties of the products. The technique involves subjecting a material to sinusoidally varying stress over time and measuring the response of the material to this stress. In a domain where the behavior is linear viscoelastic (zone where the deformation is proportional to the stress), the stress (T) and the deformation (y) are two sinusoidal functions of the time which are written in the following way: T (t ) = To sin (wt) y (t) = yo sin (wt + δ) where: To represents the maximum amplitude of the stress (Pa); yo represents the maximum amplitude of the deformation (-); = 2IN represents the pulsation (rad.s-1) with N representing the frequency (Hz); and S represents the phase shift of the stress with respect to the strain (rad). Thus, the two functions have the same angular frequency but they are out of phase by an angle δ. According to the phase shift S between T (t) and y (t), the behavior of the system can be apprehended: If S = 0, the material is purely elastic; - If S = II / 2, the material is purely viscous (Newtonian fluid); and - If 0 <S <II / 2, the material is viscoelastic. In general, the stress and the deformation are written in complex form: T * (t) = e (t t t t t t (t) = yo e (iwt + 8) 3025097 58 A complex modulus of rigidity, representing the overall resistance of the material the deformation whether of elastic or viscous origin, is then defined by: G * = T * / y * = G '+ iG "where: 5 G' is the conservation modulus or elastic modulus which characterizes the stored energy and totally restored during a cycle, G '= (' ro / yo) cos S, and G 'is the loss module or viscous modulus which characterizes the energy dissipated by internal friction during a cycle The parameter retained is the modulus of average rigidity G * measured at the plateau 10 measured at a frequency of 1 Hz. EXAMPLES Examples 1 and 2 The gel-gel compositions of the example 1 (according to the invention) and Example 2 (comparative) were prepared and lint potential measurements were carried out. Gel-gel compositions Gel-gel compositions are prepared as described below. The components of phase A are weighed in a beaker and stirred with stirring at room temperature. After homogenization of the gel, the components of phase B, which have been weighed, are added progressively to room temperature, with vigorous stirring. The gel-gel composition is formed. The mixture is allowed to homogenise with stirring for approximately 25 minutes at room temperature while scraping the walls of the beaker with a marysette. The mixture is left under vigorous stirring for about 5 minutes at room temperature. The formula is prepared from the weight proportions described below. The compositions of Examples 1 and 2 are identical except for the blooming filler of the gelled aqueous phase: Vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer treated with PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, Polyquaternium-7 and methylsilanol 3025097 59 tri-PEG-8 glyceryl cocoate in Example 1 and Dimethicone / Vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) Butylene glycol in Example 2. Phase Compounds Example 1 Comparative Example 2 (% w / w / wt / total weight of the total composition) ( % in the WATER phase Qsp 100 Qsp 100 A PHENOXYETHANOL 0.5 0.5 Vinyl dimethicone / methicone 12 0 silsesquioxane crosspolymer treated with PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, Polyquaternium-7 and methylsilanol tri-PEG-8 glyceryl cocoate marketed by the company Miyoshi Kasei under the name MW-SRP-100 dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone 0 12 crosspolymer (and) butylene glycol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name EP-9801 Hydrocosmetic Powder Ammonium P Oligimethyltauramide O 8 sold under the name Hostacerin AMPS® by the company Clariant Phase DIMETHICONE 13 13 B sold under the name KF-96L-2CS by the company Shin Etsu Dimethicone 4 4 sold under the name Dow Corning Toray SH200C FLUID 5CS by the company company Dow Corning Vinyl dimethicone / methicone 9 9 silsesquioxane Crosspolymer sold under the reference "KSP-100" by the company Shin Etsu Caprylyl 0.2 0.2 glycol marketed under the name MINACARE by the company MINASOLVE 3025097 2) Evaluation of the cosmetic properties The Plush potential of these tests was evaluated in vitro. 0.1g of each formula was deposited on a synthetic substrate mimicking the surface properties of the skin. The amount of product deposited was then finger spread over the entire surface of the substrate and then the film was dried in air for 1 h. After drying the film, back and forth movements were applied with the same intensity to each of the samples in order to cause or not the appearance of fluff. The film formed with the composition of Example 2 broke, leaving fine particles to appear. while the film formed by the composition of Example 1 remains intact.

Examples 3 and 4 The gel-gel compositions of Example 3 (according to the invention) and of Example 4 (comparative) were prepared and the stability of these compositions was studied. 1) Preparation of gel-gel compositions Gel-gel compositions are prepared as described for Examples 1 and 2 above. The formula is prepared from the weight proportions described below. The compositions of Examples 3 and 4 are identical, except for the hydrophilic gelling agent, to those of Examples 1 and 2. Phase Compounds Example 3 Comparative Example 4 (% by weight / weight / total weight of the total composition) composition ) (% in WATER Phase Qs 100 Qsp 100 A PHENOXYETHANOL 0.5 0.5 Supplier Clariant Vinyl dimethicone / methicone 12 12 silsesquioxane crosspolymer treated with PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, Polyquaternium-7 and methylsilanol tri-PEG-8 glyceryl cocoate marketed by the company Miyoshi Kasei under the name MW-SRP-100 3025097 61 Ammonium Polydimethyltauramide marketed under the name Hostacerin AMPS® by the company 8 Clariant 0 Hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer Commerialized under the name SEPINOV 0 0.8 EMT10 By SEPPIC DIMETHICONE Sold under the name 13 13 KF-96L-2CS by the company Shin Etsu Dimethicone Phase marketed under the name Dow 4 4 B Corning Toray SH200C FL UID 5CS by the company Dow Corning vinyl dimethicone / methicone 9 9 silsesquioxane Crosspolymer sold under the reference "KSP-100" by the company Shin Etsu Caprylyl glycol marketed under the name 0.2 0.2 MINACARE by the company MINASOLVE 2) Evaluation of the stability of the compositions The gelled aqueous phase of the composition 3 conforming (containing AMPS hostacerin) is stable in contrast to the comparative composition 4 (containing the sepinov EMT10). Indeed, for the comparative composition 4, there is a salting out of water between the formula and the edge of the formula that is not observed with the composition 3 according to the invention.

Claims (20)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic make-up and / or care composition for keratin materials, in particular skin and / or lips, comprising: at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, said hydrophilic gelling agent being a homopolymer of a monomer with sulfonic group; and at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent; said phases forming a macroscopically homogeneous mixture therein; Said composition further comprising at least two blooming fillers, said two blooming fillers being a crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silsesquioxane resin and a crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with hydrophilic treated silicone resin. 15 2. Composition according to claim 1, in which the homopolymer of a monomer containing a sulphonic group is a crosslinked homopolymer of ammonium acrylarnido-2-methyl propane sulphonate. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with hydrophilic treated silicone resin is combined with at least one cationic polymer, preferably a quaternary ammonium polymer and optionally with at least one ester. polyoxyethylenated Cs-C18 glycol. 4. Composition according to claim 3, wherein the crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with hydrophilic treated silicone resin is combined with at least one quaternary ammonium polymer, preferably at least polyquaternium-7. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 0.2% to 40% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 37% by weight, preferably from 2% to 35% by weight, and advantageously from 10% to 30% by weight of blooming filler (s), based on the total weight of said composition. 3025097 63 A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said lipophilic gelling agent is selected from particulate gelling agents, organopolysiloxane elastomers, semi-crystalline polymers, dextrin esters, hydrogen bonded polymers and mixtures thereof. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising, as lipophilic gelling agent, at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer, preferably chosen from Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer. , Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3, and especially Dimethicone Crosspolymer and Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising, as lipophilic gelling agent, at least one silicone elastomer gel dispersed in a silicone oil and / or a crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silsesquioxane resin. 9. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cross-linked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silsesquioxane resin is present in a content ranging from 5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 7% to 12% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, containing as a hydrophilic gelling-lipophilic gelling system, a crosslinked homopolymer system of ammonium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulphonate - elastomeric cross-linked organopolysiloxane powder coated with resin. silsesquioxane. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, containing the gelled aqueous and oily phases in an aqueous phase / oily phase weight ratio ranging from 95/5 to 5/95, preferably ranging from 30/70 to 80/20. . 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in the form of a skincare composition for the body or face, in particular the face. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least solid particles such as pigments and / or ancillary charges. 3025097 64 14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising volatile and / or nonvolatile silicone oils. 15. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one moisturizing agent, preferably glycerine. 5 16. A process for the preparation of a cosmetic makeup and / or skincare composition for keratinous substances, in particular the skin and / or the lips, comprising at least one step of mixing: an aqueous phase gelled with at least one a homopolymer of a sulfonic monomer, preferably a crosslinked homopolymer of ammonium acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonate; and at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent; under conditions conducive to obtaining a macroscopically homogeneous mixture, said composition further comprising at least two blooming fillers which are a cross-linked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silsesquioxane resin and a cross-linked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with hydrophilic treated silicone resin. 17. The method of claim 16 comprising a step of mixing at least two, preferably at least three, gel phases. 18. A method according to any one of claims 16 or 17, wherein the mixing of the phases is carried out at ambient temperature. 19. A cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin material a composition as defined according to one of the following: any of claims 1 to 15. 20. A cosmetic process for makeup and / or care of a keratin material, in particular the skin and / or the lips, comprising at least one step of applying to said material a macroscopically homogeneous composition obtained by extemporaneous mixing. before application or at the time of application to said keratin material, at least one gelled aqueous phase with at least one homopolymer of a monomer containing a sulfonic group, preferably at least one cross-linked homopolymer of at least one ammonium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulphonate, and at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent; and said composition further comprising at least two blooming fillers which are crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silsesquioxane resin and crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with hydrophilic treated silicone resin.