FR3090325A1 - GEL / GEL TYPE COMPOSITION COMPRISING BORON NITRIDE PARTICLES AND AT LEAST ONE ENCAPSULATED PIGMENT - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, in particular comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular for coating keratin materials, more particularly make-up and / or care products. keratin materials, cosmetic for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, comprising: a) at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; andb) at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent; said phases forming therein a macroscopically homogeneous mixture; said composition further comprising: c) boron nitride particles, d) at least one encapsulated pigment, and e) at least one non-starchy polysaccharide. The invention also relates to a process for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, characterized in that it comprises the application to keratin materials of a composition such as defined above.]

Description

Title of the invention: GEL / GEL COMPOSITION COMPRISING PARTICLES OF BORON NITRIDE AND

AT LEAST ONE ENCAPSULATED PIGMENT

The present invention relates to a composition, in particular comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, cosmetic for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, in particular of the skin and / or the lips, comprising:

a) at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; and b) at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent; said phases forming therein a macroscopically homogeneous mixture; said composition further comprising:

c) particles of boron nitride,

d) at least one encapsulated pigment, and

e) at least one non-starchy polysaccharide.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, characterized in that it comprises application to keratin materials d 'a composition as defined above.

Technical area

The skin is not a smooth, solid-colored surface, and has reliefs and microreliefs such as pores, fine lines, wrinkles, pimples, scars, dry areas, which form a somewhat bumpy surface. Quite often, this surface, with its irregularities, forms a whole pleasant to look at, but the irregularities are such that sometimes the surface is considered unsightly.

[0004] Cosmetic makeup and / or care compositions are commonly used to camouflage and / or unify imperfections in the relief of the skin such as pores, wrinkles and / or fine lines and / or scars. In this regard, numerous formulations, solid or fluid, anhydrous or not, have to date been developed.

The application of a makeup composition such as a foundation is the most effective approach to beautify irregular skin by making it possible to hide spots and discolourations (such as diffuse redness or around the eyes) , reduce the visibility of relief imperfections such as pores and wrinkles, and hide pimples and traces of acne, in this regard coverage is one of the main properties sought. Pigments, in particular encapsulated pigments, are generally used in these compositions. However, these are opaque, tend to accumulate in reliefs such as pores and wrinkles, create a contrast of opacity and color and mark these relief imperfections.

In addition to the marking problem, makeup compositions using high levels of encapsulated pigments tend to produce a feeling of thickness, of unnatural mask on keratin materials such as the skin. Make-up compositions such as foundations containing a lower level of encapsulated pigments provide less opacity and “mask” effect and give the skin a more natural effect. However, they do not allow very good homogenization of the complexion due to their lower opacity.

[0007] On the other hand, it is also important that the makeup and / or care compositions for keratin materials such as the skin provide cosmetic and in particular sensory properties that are satisfactory for the comfort of the consumer, in particular that they are soft, fresh and light on application.

There therefore remains a need to find new cosmetic compositions comprising encapsulated pigments making it possible to effectively mask the imperfections of keratin materials, to substantially reduce or even eliminate the effects of marking of the reliefs and of mask effect on keratin materials such that the skin, and / or to obtain a good homogenization of the complexion while keeping a natural appearance, in particular a natural color of the skin without tarnishing, and / or without "plaster" or mask effect (in particular for example to correct the redness of the skin such as those around the eye), as well as cosmetic properties satisfactory for the comfort of the consumer, in particular good fluidity, slippery, and / or non-sticky properties, and in particular allowing good play-time, a spreading during the application easy and pleasant, and leave a soft finish on the skin.

During her research, the applicant surprisingly discovered that this objective could be achieved with a composition comprising:

a) at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; and b) at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent; said phases forming therein a macroscopically homogeneous mixture; said composition further comprising:

c) particles of boron nitride, d) at least one encapsulated pigment, and e) at least one non-starchy polysaccharide.

This discovery is the basis of the invention.

The present invention relates to a composition, in particular comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, cosmetic for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, in particular of the skin and / or the lips, comprising:

a) at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; and b) at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent; said phases forming therein a macroscopically homogeneous mixture; said composition further comprising:

c) particles of boron nitride,

d) at least one encapsulated pigment, and

e) at least one non-starchy polysaccharide.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, characterized in that it comprises application to keratin materials d 'a composition as defined above.

detailed description

In the context of the present invention, the term "keratin materials" means the skin and more particularly the areas such as the face, cheeks, hands, body, legs and thighs, the contour of the eyes, eyelids.

By physiologically acceptable is meant compatible with the skin and / or its integuments, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort.

By "filler" is meant the colorless or white particles, solid of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition.

In the context of the present invention, the expression “blurring effect” designates a blurring effect which camouflages the micro-reliefs of the skin. This effect makes it possible in particular to reduce, by optical effect, skin defects such as spots, wrinkles, fine lines and the visibility of pores.

These blurring charges can also be called "soft focus effect charges" or even "blurring effect charges".

The term "pigments" means white or colored, mineral or organic particles, insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting film. These pigments can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic.

The term "encapsulated dye" means a dye which is contained in microcapsules. In particular, the dye is a pigment, in particular chosen from organic and inorganic pigments, preferably inorganic pigments.

Compositions, called gel-gel, have already been proposed in the cosmetic field.

This type of formulation combines a gelled aqueous phase with a gelled oily phase. Thus, gel / gel formulations are described in Almeida et al., Pharmaceutical Development and Technology, 2008, 13: 487, Tables 1 and 2, page 488; WO 99/65455; PI 0405758-9; WO 99/62497; JP 2005-112834 and WO 2008/081175. However, to the knowledge of the inventors, this type of composition does not at present make it possible to conceal and smooth imperfections in relief without altering the other expected cosmetic performances.

A composition according to the invention comprises particles of boron nitride in particular in an amount ranging from 0.2 to 15% by weight, in particular from 1 to 10% by weight, more particularly from 3 to 7% by weight , and preferably from 4 to 6% by weight of particles of boron nitride, relative to the total weight of said composition.

According to an alternative embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.2 to 40% by weight, in particular from 1 to 30% by weight, in particular from 5 to 25% by weight, and preferably from 10 to 25% by weight of total blurring effect fillers (boron nitride particles and additional blurring effect fillers), relative to the total weight of said composition.

According to an advantageous alternative embodiment, said one or said blurring charges are present in whole or in part, and preferably only, in the gelled aqueous phase or are present in whole or in part, and preferably only, in the phase oily gelled.

As stated above, the inventors have found that the choice of a particular hydrophilic gelling agent for texturing the aqueous phase of a gel / gel type composition and the use of blurring charges in a composition according to the invention makes it possible to duplicate the effects of these charges, as illustrated in the examples.

Thus, a composition according to the invention exhibits very good properties for camouflaging relief imperfections and smoothing the skin, while providing the user with a feeling of freshness and lightness. Finally, the composition turns out to be easy to apply to the surface of the targeted keratin material.

Another subject of the invention is, according to another of its aspects, a process for the preparation of a cosmetic composition for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, especially the skin around the eyes, and / or lips, comprising at least one mixing step:

. an aqueous phase gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; and. at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent; under conditions conducive to obtaining a macroscopically homogeneous mixture; said composition further comprising at least one filler with a blurring effect chosen from boron nitride particles, at least one encapsulated pigment, and at least one non-starchy polysaccharide.

According to an alternative embodiment, this method can advantageously comprise a step of mixing at least three gelled phases or even more.

For obvious reasons, the number of gelled aqueous phases and gelled oily phases to be considered in order to form a composition according to the invention may vary for each of the two types of phase beyond two.

Advantageously, the mixing of the phases can be carried out at room temperature.

However, the method of the invention may include, if necessary, a step of heating the mixture.

According to a particular embodiment, the gelled phases representative of the same type of architecture are gelled by a different gelling agent.

Multiphase formulas can thus be developed.

Another subject of the invention, according to another of its aspects, is a process for making up and / or caring, in particular cosmetic, for a keratin material, in particular for, comprising at least one step consisting in applying on said keratin material a composition in accordance with the invention.

According to yet another of its aspects, the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for a keratinous material, in particular the skin, comprising at least the application to said material of a composition macroscopically homogeneous obtained by extemporaneous mixing, before application or at the time of application to said keratin material, of at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent, and at least one oily phase gelled with at least one agent lipophilic gelling agent; and said composition further comprising at least particles of boron nitride, at least one encapsulated pigment, and at least one non-starchy polysaccharide.

Cosmetic composition

First, it is important to note that a composition according to the invention is different from an emulsion.

An emulsion generally consists of an oily liquid phase and an aqueous liquid phase. It is a dispersion of droplets from one of the two liquid phases in the other. The size of the droplets forming the dispersed phase of the emulsion is typically of the order of a micrometer (0.1 to 100 μm). In addition, an emulsion requires the presence of a surfactant or an emulsifier to ensure its stability over time.

Conversely, a composition according to the invention consists of a macroscopically homogeneous mixture of two immiscible gelled phases. These two phases both have a gel-like texture. This texture is reflected in particular visually by a consistent and / or creamy appearance.

By "macroscopically homogeneous mixture" is meant a mixture in which each of the gelled phases cannot be individualized with the naked eye.

More specifically, in a composition according to the invention, the gelled aqueous phase and the gelled oily phase interpenetrate and thus form a stable and consistent product. This consistency is achieved by mixing the interpenetrating macro-domains. These interpenetrating macro-domains are not measurable objects. Thus, under the microscope, the composition according to the invention is very different from an emulsion. A composition according to the invention can also not be characterized as having a "sense", ie an O / W or W / O sense.

Thus, a composition according to the invention has a gel-like consistency. The stability of the composition is durable without surfactant. Consequently, a cosmetic composition according to the invention does not require a surfactant or a silicone emulsifier to ensure its stability over time.

It is known from the state of the art to observe the intrinsic nature of a mixture of aqueous and oily gels in a composition of gel / gel type, for example, by introducing a coloring matter either in the phase aqueous gel is either in the lipophilic gelled phase, before the formation of the gel-type composition. During visual inspection, in a gel / gel type composition, the coloring matter appears to be uniformly dispersed, even if the coloring is present only in the gelled aqueous phase or in the gelled oily phase. Indeed, if two different dyes of different colors are introduced respectively in the oily phase and in the aqueous phase, before the formation of the gel / gel type composition, the two colors can be observed as uniformly dispersed throughout the type composition gel / gel. This is different from an emulsion in which, if a dye, soluble in water or soluble in oil, is introduced respectively in the aqueous and oily phases, before forming the emulsion, only the color of the dye will be observed. present in the external phase (Remington: The Science and Practice of Pharmacy, 19th Edition (1995), Chapter 21, page 282).

It is also known to distinguish a gel / gel type composition from an emulsion by performing a "drop test". This test consists in demonstrating the bi-continuous nature of a gel / gel type composition. Indeed, as mentioned previously, the consistency of a composition is obtained by the interpenetration of the aqueous and oily gelled domains. Consequently, the bi-continuous nature of a gel / gel type composition can be demonstrated by a simple test with hydrophilic and hydrophobic solvents respectively. This test consists in depositing, on the one hand, a drop of a hydrophilic solvent on a first sample of the composition tested, and on the other hand, a drop of a hydrophobic solvent on a second sample of the same composition tested, and analyze the behavior of the two drops of solvents. In the case of an O / W emulsion, the drop of hydrophilic solvent diffuses into the sample and the drop of hydrophobic solvent remains on the surface of the sample. In the case of a W / O emulsion, the drop of hydrophilic solvent remains on the surface of the sample and the drop of hydrophobic solvent diffuses throughout the sample. Finally, in the case of a gel / gel type composition (bi-continuous system), the hydrophilic and hydrophobic drops diffuse throughout the sample.

In the case of the present invention, the test which will be favored for distinguishing a gel / gel type composition from an emulsion is a dilution test. In fact, in a gel / gel type composition, the aqueous and oily gelled domains interpenetrate and form a consistent and stable composition, in which the behavior in water and in oil is different from the behavior of an emulsion. Therefore, the behavior when diluting a gel / gel composition (bicontinuous system) can be compared to that of an emulsion.

More specifically, the dilution test consists of putting 40 g of product and 160 g of dilution solvent (water or oil) in a suitable plastic beaker. The dilution is carried out with controlled stirring to avoid any emulsification phenomenon. In particular, this is done using a planetary motion mixer: Speed Mixer TM DAC400FVZ®. The speed of the mixer is set at 1500 rpm for 4 minutes. Finally, the observation of the resulting sample is carried out using an optical microscope at a magnification of x 100 (xlOxlO). It can be noted that the oils such as Parleam® and Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 5CS® sold by Dow Corning are suitable as dilution solvents.

In the case of a gel / gel type composition (bi-continuous system), when it is diluted in oil or in water, a heterogeneous appearance is always observed. When a composition of gel / gel type (bi-continuous system) is diluted in water, pieces of oily gel in suspension are observed and when a composition of gel type (bi-continuous system) is diluted in water. oil, pieces of aqueous gel in suspension are observed.

On the contrary, during dilution, the emulsions exhibit different behavior. An O / W emulsion, when diluted in an aqueous solvent, gradually reduces without presenting a heterogeneous and lumpy appearance. This same O / W emulsion, when diluted with the oil, has a heterogeneous appearance (pieces of O / W emulsion suspended in the oil). A W / O emulsion, when diluted with an aqueous solvent, has a heterogeneous appearance (pieces of W / O emulsion suspended in water). This same W / O emulsion, when diluted in oil, gradually reduces without presenting a heterogeneous and lumpy appearance.

According to the present invention, the aqueous gelled phase and the oily gelled phase forming a composition according to the invention are present there in a weight ratio varying from 95/5 to 5/95. More preferably, the aqueous phase and the oily phase are present in a weight ratio varying from 30/70 to 80/20. The ratio between the two gelled phases is adjusted according to the desired cosmetic properties.

Thus, in the case of a makeup composition, in particular of the face, it may be advantageous to favor a weight ratio of aqueous gelled phase / oily gelled phase greater than 1, in particular varying from 60/40 to 90/10 , preferably varying from 60/40 to 80/20, preferably from 60/40 to 70/30, and even more preferentially to favor a weight ratio aqueous gelled phase / oily gelled phase of 60/40 or 70/30.

These preferred ratios are particularly advantageous for obtaining fresh and light compositions.

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention is therefore in the form of a creamy gel having a minimum stress below which it does not flow unless it has been subjected to an external mechanical stress.

As follows from what follows, a composition according to the invention may have a minimum threshold stress of 1.5 Pa and in particular greater than 10 Pa.

It can also advantageously have a rigidity module G * at least equal to 400 Pa, and preferably greater than 1000 Pa.

According to an advantageous alternative embodiment, the gelled phases considered to form a composition according to the invention may respectively have a threshold stress greater than 1.5 Pa, and preferably greater than 10 Pa.

The characterization of the threshold stresses is carried out by rheology measurements in oscillation.

In general, the corresponding measurements are made at 25 ° C using an imposed constraint rheometer, RS600 HAAKE, equipped with a plane-plane measuring body (diameter 60 mm) provided with '' an anti-evaporation device (bell). For each measurement, the sample is gently placed and the measurements begin 5 minutes after the sample is placed in the air gap (2 mm). The composition tested is then subjected to a stress ramp of 10-2 to 103 Pa at a frequency fixed at 1 Hz.

A composition according to the invention can also have a certain elasticity. This elasticity can be characterized by a modulus of rigidity G * which under this threshold of minimum stress can be at least equal to 400 Pa, and preferably greater than 1000 Pa. The G * value of a composition can be obtained by subjecting the composition considered at a stress ramp from 10-2 to 103 Pa at a frequency fixed at 1 Hz.

In a preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention have good fluidity and sliding properties, in particular during the application of the latter on keratin materials such as the skin.

In a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention which has good sliding properties has a viscosity in the pot or the container which contains it (ls-1) of less than 1000 Pa.s, a viscosity on setting (10s-l) less than 100 Pa.s, a viscosity on application (1000s-l) less than 0.1 Pa.s.

In a particular embodiment of the invention, the compositions exhibit shear-thinning behavior which also makes it possible to have good playtime properties.

In a particular embodiment the composition according to the invention which has a good play-time has a viscosity during application (1000s-l) remains less than 0.25 Pa.s for at least 20 seconds. The viscosity measurements as a function of the evolution of the stress can be carried out according to the protocol defined in the example part below.

By shear thinning behavior is meant, within the meaning of the invention, a composition which leads to a deposit which fluidizes during its application, but remains fluid and does not recover all or part of its initial viscosity or only after a time at least 20 seconds. During application to the keratinous material, in particular the skin, under the pressure exerted by the applicator according to the invention, the composition becomes fluidized under the effect of shearing due to the displacement of the application member on the skin . The viscosity of the composition according to the invention having a shear thinning character or behavior can be lowered, in a reversible manner, when increasing shears are applied to the composition. Such a composition has different viscosity levels at low (101 s-1) and high shear (103 s-1).

Hydrophilic gelling agent

The term “hydrophilic gelling agent” within the meaning of the present invention means a compound capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the compositions according to the invention.

The gelling agent is hydrophilic and is therefore present in the aqueous phase of the composition.

The gelling agent can be water-soluble or water-dispersible.

As specified above, the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention is gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent.

The hydrophilic gelling agent can be chosen from synthetic polymeric gelling agents, natural or naturally occurring polymeric gelling agents, mixed silicates and fumed silicas, and mixtures thereof.

These hydrophilic gelling agents can be cationic, anionic, amphoteric or nonionic.

Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent can be chosen from synthetic polymeric gelling agents.

The synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent considered according to the invention may or may not be particulate.

Within the meaning of the invention, the term particulate means that the polymer is in the form of particles, preferably spherical.

I. Natural or natural polymeric gelling agents

The hydrophilic polymeric gelling agents which are suitable for the invention may be natural or of natural origin.

Within the meaning of the invention, the expression “of natural origin” is intended to denote the polymeric gelling agents obtained by modification of the natural polymeric gelling agents.

These gelling agents can be particulate or non-particulate.

More specifically, these gelling agents come under the category of polysaccharides, such as starch polysaccharides.

I. A. Starchy polysaccharides

As a representative of this category can be mentioned very particularly, native starches, modified starches and particulate starches.

Native starches

The starches which can be used in the present invention are more particularly macromolecules in the form of polymers consisting of elementary units which are anhydroglucose (dextrose) units, linked by bonds a (1,4), of chemical formula (C6H10O5) n. The number of these units and their assembly make it possible to distinguish amylose, a molecule formed from approximately 600 to 1000 molecules of glucose chained linearly, and amylopectin, a branched polymer all about 25 glucose residues (binding a (1.6 The total chain can make between 10,000 and 100,000 glucose residues.

Starch is described in particular in "KIRK-OTHMER ENCYCLOPEDIA OE CHEMICAL TECHNOLOGY, 3rd edition, volume 21, pages 492-507, Wiley Interscience, 1983".

The relative proportions of amylose and amylopectin, as well as their degree of polymerization, vary depending on the botanical origin of the starches. On average, a native starch sample consists of approximately 25% amylose and 75% amylopectin.

Sometimes, there is the presence of phytoglycogen (between 0% and 20% of starch), an analog of amylopectin but branched every 10 to 15 glucose residues.

The starch can be in the form of semi-crystalline granules: the amylopectin is organized in sheets, T amylose forms an amorphous area which is less well organized between the different sheets.

The amylose is organized in a straight helix with six glucoses per revolution. It dissociates into assimilable glucose under the action of enzymes, amylases, all the more easily if it is in the form of amylopectin. Indeed, the helical formation does not favor the accessibility of starch to enzymes.

The starches are generally in the form of a white powder insoluble in cold water, the size of the elementary particles of which ranges from 3 to 100 microns.

By treating it with hot water, we get the poison. It is used in the industry for its thickening and gelling properties.

The starch molecules used in the present invention can have cereals or tubers as botanical origin. Thus, the starches are for example chosen from starches of corn, rice, cassava, tapioca, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, peas.

Native starches are represented, for example, by the products sold under the names C * AmilogelTM, Cargill GelTM, C * GelTM, Cargill GumTM, DryGelTM, C * Pharm GelTM by the company Cargill, under the name Starch of maize Roquette company, and under the name Tapioca Pure by the company National Starch.

Modified starches

The modified starches used in the composition of the invention can be modified by one or more of the following reactions: pre-gelatinization, degradation (acid hydrolysis, oxidation, dextrinization), substitution (esterification, etherification), crosslinking (esterification) , bleaching.

More particularly, these reactions can be carried out in the following manner. Pre-gelatinization by bursting the starch granules (for example drying and cooking in a drying drum);

.acid hydrolysis resulting in very rapid retrogradation on cooling;

. dextrinization in an acid medium at high temperature (hydrolysis then repolymerization). crosslinking by functional agents capable of reacting with the hydroxyl groups of the starch molecules which will thus be linked together (for example with glyceryl and / or phosphate groups);

. esterification in an alkaline medium for the grafting of functional groups, in particular C1-C6 acyl (acetyl), C1-C6 hydroxyalkyls (hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl), carboxymethyl, octenylsuccinic.

One can in particular obtain by crosslinking with phosphorus compounds, mono-starch phosphates (of the Am-0-P0- (0X) 2 type), diamidon phosphates (of the Am-O-PO- (OX) type - O-Am) or even triamidon (of the Am-0-P0 (0-Am) 2 type) or mixtures thereof.

X denotes in particular the alkali metals (for example sodium or potassium), the alkaline earth metals (for example calcium, magnesium), the ammonia salts, the salts of amines such as those of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine , 3-amino-propanediol-1,2, ammonium salts derived from basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine, citrulline.

The phosphorus compounds can be, for example, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium orthophosphate, phosphorus oxychloride or sodium trimetaphosphate.

The starch molecules can come from all vegetable sources of starch such as, in particular, corn, potato, oats, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. It is also possible to use the hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above.

The modified starches are represented, for example, by the products sold under the names C * Tex-Instant (pre-gelatinized adipate), C * StabiTex-Instant (pre-gelatinized phosphate), C * PolarTex-Instant (pre-hydroxypropylated gelatinized), C * Set (acid hydrolysis, oxidation), C * size (oxidation), C * BatterCrisp (oxidation), C * DrySet (dextrinization), C * TexTM (acetylated diamidon adipate), C * PolarTexTM (phosphate of hydroxypropylated diamidon), C * StabiTexTM (diamidon phosphate, acetylated diamidon phosphate) by the company Cargill, by diamidon phosphates or compounds rich in diamidon phosphate such as the product offered under the references PREJEL VA-70-T AGGL ( hydroxypropylated cassava diamidon phosphate gelatinized) or PREJEL TK1 (gelatinized cassava diamidon phosphate) or PREJEL 200 (acetylated cassava diamide phosphate gelatinized) by the company AVEBE or STRUCTURE ZEA of NATIONAL STARCH (gelatinized corn starch phosphate).

Preferably, gelatinized maize diamidon phosphate is used, in particular from STRUCTURE ZEA from NATIONAL STARCH.

Such a gelling agent can be used at a rate of 0.1% to 8% by weight in dry matter relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, in particular from 0.1% to 6% by weight.

Other Polysaccharides.

Among the other polysaccharides which can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of chitin (Poly N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, β (1.4) -2-acetamido-2-deoxy-D-glucose), chitosan and derivatives (chitosan-beta-glycerophosphate, carboxymethylchitine, etc.) such as those sold by the company Lrance-Chitine.

Synthetic polymeric gelling agents

Within the meaning of the invention, the synthetic term means that the polymer is neither naturally existing nor derived from a polymer of natural origin.

As is apparent from what follows, the synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent is advantageously chosen from crosslinked acrylic homopolymers or co-polymers; associative polymers, in particular associative polymers of polyurethane type; polyacrylamides and polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, crosslinked and / or neutralized; carboxyvinyl polymers, modified or not, and mixtures thereof, in particular as defined below.

Particulate synthetic polymeric gelling agents

They are preferably chosen from crosslinked polymers.

It may especially be cross-linked acrylic homo- or co-polymers, preferably partially neutralized or neutralized, which are in particulate form.

According to one embodiment, the particulate gelling agent according to the present invention is chosen from crosslinked sodium polyacrylates. Preferably, it has, in the dry or non-hydrated state, an average size less than or equal to 100 μm, preferably less than or equal to 50 μm. The average particle size corresponds to the mass average diameter (D50) measured by laser granulometry or other equivalent method known to those skilled in the art.

Thus, preferably, the particulate gelling agent according to the present invention is chosen from crosslinked sodium polyacrylates, preferably in the form of particles having an average size (or average diameter) less than or equal to 100 microns, more preferably under form of spherical particles.

By way of example of crosslinked sodium polyacrylates, mention may be made of those sold under the names Octacare X100®, XI10® and RM100® by the company Avecia, those marketed under the names Flocare GB300® and Flosorb 500® by SNF, those marketed under the names Luquasorb 1003®, Luquasorb 1010®, Luquasorb 1280® and Luquasorb 1110 by BASF, those marketed under the names Water Lock G400® and G430® (INCI name: Acrylamide / Sodium acrylate copolymer) by Grain Processing.

Mention may also be made of crosslinked polyacrylate microspheres such as, for example, those marketed under the name AQUAKEEP® 10 SH NF offered by the company Sumitomo Seika.

Such gelling agents can be used in an amount of 0.1% to 5% by weight in dry matter relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, in particular from 0.3% to 2% by weight, and in particularly at a rate of approximately 0.5% to 1.7% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

B. Synthetic non-particulate polymeric gelling agents

This family of gelling agents can be detailed in the following sub-families: 1. Associative polymers,

2. Polyacrylamides and polymers and copolymers of 2- acrylamido 2 methylpropane sulfonic acid, crosslinked and / or neutralized, and

3. Carboxyvinyl polymers, modified or not.

[0113] B.l Associative polymers

By "associative polymer" within the meaning of the present invention means any amphiphilic polymer comprising in its structure at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic portion. The associative polymers in accordance with the present invention can be anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric.

Associative anionic polymers

Among the associative anionic polymers, mention may be made of those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit, and at least one allyl ether unit with a fatty chain, more particularly from those whose hydrophilic unit consists of an anionic ethylenically unsaturated monomer, more particularly with a vinyl carboxylic acid and very particularly with an acrylic acid, a methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof, and the fatty chain allyl ether unit of which corresponds to the monomer of formula (I) below:

CH2 = C (R ') CH2OBnR (I) in which R' denotes H or CH3, B denotes the ethyleneoxy radical, n is zero or denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100, R denotes a hydrocarbon radical chosen from alkyl radicals, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, cycloalkyl, comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24, and more particularly still from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

Anionic amphiphilic polymers of this type are described and prepared, according to an emulsion polymerization process, in patent EP 0 216 479.

Among the associative anionic polymers, mention may also be made of terpolymers of maleic anhydride / a C ₃ oC ₃₈ / alkyl maleate such as the maleic anhydride / a-olefin C ₃₀ -C ₃₈ / maleate copolymer product. isopropyl sold under the name Performa V 1608® by the company Newphase Technologies.

Among the associative anionic polymers, mention may be made, according to a preferred embodiment, of the copolymers comprising, among their monomers, an α, β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an α, β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid ester and oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol.

Preferably, these compounds also comprise as monomer an ester of α, β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of Ci-C ₄ alcohol.

As an example of this type of compound, mention may be made of Aculyn 22 ^ sold by the company Rohm and Haas, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer (comprising 20 EO units) or Aculyn 28 ^ (methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / behenyl oxyethylene methacrylate (25OE) terpolymer.

As associative anionic polymers, mention may also be made of anionic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic unit exclusively of unsaturated carboxylic acid (C ₁ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl ester type. . By way of example, mention may be made of the anionic polymers described and prepared according to US Patents 3,915,921 and US 4,509,949.

As anionic associative polymers, mention may also be made of anionic terpolymers.

The anionic terpolymer used according to the invention is a linear or branched and / or crosslinked terpolymer of at least one monomer (1) carrying an acid function in free form, partially or completely salified with a nonionic monomer (2) chosen among NN, dimethylacrylamide and 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate and at least one monomer (3) alkyl acrylate the polyoxyethylenated of formula (I) below: [Chem. 2]

R1

(D in which Ri represents a hydrogen atom, R represents a linear or branched C ₂ -C ₈ alkyl radical and n represents a number ranging from 1 to 10.

By “branched polymer”, is meant a non-linear polymer which has pendant chains so as to obtain, when this polymer is dissolved in water, a strong state of entanglement leading to viscosities, at low very large speed gradient.

By “crosslinked polymer”, is meant a non-linear polymer in the state of a three-dimensional network insoluble in water but swellable in water and leading to the production of a chemical gel.

The acid function of the monomer (1) is in particular the sulfonic acid, phosphonic acid function, said functions being in free form, partially or totally salified.

The monomer (1) can be chosen from styrenesulfonic acid, ethylsulfonic acid or 2-methyl-2 - [(l-oxo-2-propenyl] amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid (also called Acryloyldimethyltaurate) free, partially or completely salified It is present in the anionic terpolymer preferably in molar proportions of between 5% and 95 mol% and more particularly between 10% and 90 mol% The monomer (1) will be more particularly the acid 2-methyl-2 - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl] amino] 1-propanesulfonic in free form, partially or totally salified.

The acid function in partially or fully salified form will preferably be an alkali metal salt such as a sodium or potassium salt, an ammonium salt, an amino alcohol salt such as a monoethanolamine salt or else a salt of amino acid such as a lysine salt.

The monomer (2) is preferably present in the anionic terpolymer in molar proportions of between 4.9% and 90 mol% and more particularly between 9.5% and 85% molar and even more particularly between 19.5% and 75 % molar. In formula (I) as an example of linear alkyl C ₈ -C1 ₆ include octyl, decyl, undecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl.

In formula (I), as an example of a C ₈ -C ₆ branched alkyl radical, mention may be made of 2-ethylhexyl, 2-propylheptyl, 2-butyloctyl, 2-pentylnonyl, 2-hexyldecyl, 4-methylpentyl, 5- methylhexyl, 6-methyllieptyl, 15-methylpentadecyl, 16-methylheptadecyl, 2-hexyloctyl.

According to a particular form of the invention, in formula (I), R denotes an alkyl radical in Ci ₂ -Ci ₆ .

According to a particular form of the invention, in formula (I), n varies from 3 to 5.

Use will be made more particularly, as monomer of formula (I), of tetraethoxylated lauryl acrylate.

The monomer (3) of formula (I) is preferably present in the anionic terpolymer in molar proportions of between 0.1% and 10 mol% and more particularly between 0.5% and 5 mol%.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the anionic terpolymer is crosslinked and / or branched with a diethylene or polyethylene compound in the proportion expressed relative to the total amount of monomers used, from 0.005% to 1 mol% and preferably from 0.01% to 0.5 mol% and more particularly from 0.01% to 0.25% molar.

The crosslinking agent and / or the branching agent is preferably chosen from ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, diallyloxoacetic acid or one of its salts, such as sodium diallyloxyacetate, tetraallyloxyethane, ethylene glycol diacrylate, diallyl urea, triallyl amine, trimethylol propanetriacrylate, methylenebis (acrylamide) or their mixtures.

The anionic terpolymer can contain additives such as complexing agents, transfer agents, chain-limiting agents.

Use will be made more particularly of an anionic terpolymer of 2-methyl-2 - [(l-oxo-2-propenyl] amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid partially or totally salified in the form of ammonium salt, Ν, Ν-dimethylacrylamide and tetraethoxylated lauryl acrylate and crosslinked with trimethylol propanetriacrylate, name

INCI Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 such as the product sold under the trade name Sepimax Zen® by the company Seppic.

Cationic associative polymers

As cationic associative polymers, mention may be made of polyacrylates containing amino side groups.

Polyacrylates with amino side groups, quaternized or not, for example have hydrophobic groups of the steareth 20 type (polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol (20)).

As examples of polyacrylates containing amino side chains, mention may be made of polymers 8781-121B or 9492-103 from the company National Starch.

Nonionic associative polymers

The nonionic associative polymers can be chosen from:

- copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and hydrophobic fatty chain monomers;

- copolymers of methacrylates or alkyl acrylates, Ci-C ₆ and of amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain;

- copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, such as for example the polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer;

- associative polyurethanes.

Associative polyurethanes are nonionic block copolymers comprising in the chain, both hydrophilic blocks of a nature most often polyoxyethylenated (the polyurethanes can then be called polyether polyurethanes) and hydrophobic sequences which can be aliphatic sequences. alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic sequences.

In particular, these polymers comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon chains, having from C ₆ to C ₃₀ carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon chains can be pendant chains or chains at the end of hydrophilic block. In particular, it is possible that one or more pendant chains are provided. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.

The associative polyurethanes can be sequenced in the form of a triblock or multiblock. The hydrophobic blocks can therefore be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer with hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (multiblock copolymer for example). These polymers can also be in grafts or in a star. Preferably, the associative polyurethanes are triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic block is a polyoxyethylenated chain comprising from 50 to 1000 oxyethylenated groups. In general, associative polyurethanes have a urethane bond between hydrophilic sequences, hence the origin of the name.

According to a preferred embodiment, a non-ionic polyurethane type associative polymer is used as the gelling agent.

As examples of non-ionic polyether polyurethanes with a fatty chain which can be used in the invention, it is also possible to use Rheolate ^ FX 1100 (Steareth-100 / PEG 136 / HDI (hexamethyl diisocyanate) copolymer), Rheolate ^ 205 with urea function sold by the company Elementis or the Rheolates ^ 208, 204 or 212, as well as Acrysol ^ RM 184® or Acrysol ^ RM 2020.

Mention may also be made of the product Elfacos ^ T210 with a Ci ₂ -Ci ₄ alkyl chain and the product Elfacos ^ T212 with a Ci ₆ -Ci ₈ alkyl chain (PPG-14 Palmeth-60 Hexyl Dicarbamate) from Akzo.

The product DW 1206B ^ from Rohm & Haas with a C ₂₀ alkyl chain and a urethane bond, available at 20% dry matter in water, can also be used.

One can also use solutions or dispersions of these polymers in particular in water or in an alcoholic medium. By way of example of such polymers, mention may be made of Rheolate ^ 255, Rheolate ❖ 278 and Rheolate ❖ 244 sold by the company Elementis. One can also use the product DW 1206F® and the DW 1206J® offered by the company Rohm & Haas.

The associative polyurethanes which can be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen, Colloid Polym. Sci, 271, 380-389 (1993).

More particularly still, according to the invention, one can also use an associative polyurethane capable of being obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 moles of oxide d ethylene, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

Such polyether polyurethanes are sold in particular by the company Rohm & Haas under the names Aculyn ^ 46 and 1 Aculyn ^ 44. Aculyn 46 ^ is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol with 150 or 180 moles of oxide d ethylene, stearyl alcohol and methylene bis (4-cyclohexyl-isocyanate) (SMDI), 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%), and 1 Aculyn ^ 44 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylene bis (4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and of water (26%).

It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, in particular in water or in an alcoholic medium. By way of example of such polymers, mention may be made of SER AD FX1010®, SER AD FX1035® and SER AD 1070® of the company Elementis, Rheolate ^ 255, Rheolate ^ 278 and Rheolate ^ 244 sold by Elementis. We can also use the products Aculyn ^ 44, Aculyn ^ 46, DW 1206F® and DW 1206J®, as well as Acrysol ^ RM 184 from Rohm & Haas, or even Borchi Gel LW 44® from company Borchers, and their mixtures.

[0141] Amphoteric associative polymers

Among the associative amphoteric polymers of the invention, mention may be made of amphoteric polymers, crosslinked or noncrosslinked, branched or not branched, capable of being obtained by copolymerization:

1) at least one monomer of formula (IVa) or (IVb): [Chem. 3]

R. ^A '

R ₄ -c =] - c Ζ ~ (θΛ.) - N ⁺ R, (IVa) ^R _s ° «.

[Chem. 4]

[Chem. 4]

Z Re ^R ₄ - g = T 9 ^Z - W-- ^N (IVb)

R ₅ O r ₇ in which R ₄ and R ₅ , which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical,

R ₆ , R ₇ and R ₈ , identical or different, represents a linear or branched alkyl radical having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms;

Z represents an NH group or an oxygen atom;

n is an integer from 2 to 5;

A- is an anion derived from an organic or mineral acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide;

2) at least one monomer of formula (V):

[Chem. 5] ^R -g = ^CRl ^ ° - ^Z i ^(V)

In which R ₉ and R _w , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;

Zi represents an OH group or an NHC (CH ₃ ) ₂ CH ₂ SO ₃ H group;

3) at least one monomer of formula (VI):

[Chem. 6]

RC = CR _in COXR „(VI) gi | lu II v J in which R ₉ and Ri ₀ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical, X denotes an oxygen or nitrogen atom and Rn denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical having 1 to 30 carbon atoms;

4) optionally at least one crosslinking or branching agent; at least one of the monomers of formula (IVa), (IVb) or (VI) comprising at least one fatty chain having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and said compounds of the monomers of formula (IVa), (IVb), ( V) and (VI) can be quaternized for example by an alkyl halide in Ci-C ₄ or a dialkyl sulfate C _r C _4.

The monomers of formula (IVa) and (IVb) of the present invention are preferably chosen from the group consisting of:

- dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, dimethylaminoethylacrylate,

- diethylaminoethyl methacrylate, diethylaminoethylacrylate,

- dimethylaminopropylmethacrylate, dimethylaminopropylacrylate,

- dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide, dimethylaminopropylacrylamide, optionally quaternized, for example with an alkyl halide or C _r C ₄ dialkyl sulfate in Ci-C _4.

More particularly, the monomer of formula (IVa) is chosen from acrylamide-propyl trimethyl ammonium chloride and methacrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride.

The compounds of formula (V) of the present invention are preferably chosen from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, 2-methyl crotonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid and 2-methacrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid. More particularly, the monomer of formula (V) is acrylic acid.

The monomers of formula (VI) of the present invention are preferably chosen from the group consisting of acrylates or methacrylate of Ci ₂ -C ₂ 2 alkyl and more particularly of C16-C18.

The crosslinking or branching agent is preferably chosen from

N, N'-methylene bis-acrylamide, triallyl methyl ammonium chloride, allyl methacrylate, n-methylolacrylamide, polyethylene glycol dimethacrylate, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, diethylene glycol dimethacrylate, dimethacrylate 1,6-hexanediol and allyl sucrose.

[0149] The polymers according to the invention may also contain other monomers such as nonionic monomers and in particular such as alkyl acrylates or methacrylates Ci-C _4.

The ratio of the number of cationic charges / anionic charges in these amphoteric polymers is preferably equal to approximately 1.

The weight average molecular weights of the associative amphoteric polymers have a weight average molecular weight greater than 500, preferably between 10,000 and 10,000,000, and even more preferably between 100,000 and 8,000,000.

Preferably, the associative amphoteric polymers of the invention contain from 1 to 99% of moles, more preferably from 20 to 95% of moles and even more preferably from 25 to 75% of moles of compound (s) of formula (IVa) or (IVb). They also preferably contain from 1 to 80% of moles, more preferably from 5 to 80% of moles and even more preferably from 25 to 75% of moles of compound (s) of formula (V). The content of compound (s) of formula (VI) is preferably between 0.1 and 70% of moles, more preferably between 1% to 50% of moles and even more preferably between 1% and 10% of moles. The crosslinking or branching agent when it is present is preferably between 0.0001 and 1% by mole and more preferably still between 0.0001 and 0.1% by mole.

Preferably, the molar ratio between the compound (s) of formulas (IVa) or (IVb) and the compound (s) of formula (V) varies from 20:80 to 95: 5, and more preferably from 25:75 to 75: 25.

The associative amphoteric polymers according to the invention are for example described in patent application WO 98/44012.

The amphoteric polymers which are particularly preferred according to the invention are chosen from acrylic acid / acrylamide propyl trimethyl ammonium chloride / stearyl methacrylate copolymers.

According to a preferred embodiment, the associative polymer is chosen from nonionic associative polymers and more particularly from associative polyurethanes, such as Steareth-100 / PEG-136 / HDI Copolymer sold under the name Rheolate LX 1100® by Elementis.

Such an associative polymer is advantageously used at a rate of 0.1% to 8% by weight in dry matter and preferably between 0.5% and 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

B.2 Polyacrylamides and polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, crosslinked and / or neutralized

The polymers used which are suitable as an aqueous gelling agent for the invention may be homopolymers or copolymers, crosslinked or non-crosslinked comprising at least the monomer acrylamido 2-methyl propane sulfonic acid (AMPS ^), in partially or totally form neutralized by a mineral base other than ammonia such as soda or potash.

They are preferably completely or almost completely neutralized, i.e. at least 90% neutralized.

These AMPS polymers according to the invention can be crosslinked or non-crosslinked. When the polymers are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents can be chosen from olefinically polyunsaturated compounds commonly used for the crosslinking of the polymers obtained by radical polymerization.

Mention may be made, for example, as crosslinking agents, of divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol-diallylether, polyglycol-diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol-divinyl ether, hydroquinone-diallyl ether, di (meth) acrylate. ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol, trimethylol propane triacrylate, methylene-bis-acrylamide, methylene-bis-methacrylamide, triallylamine, triallylcyanurate, diallylmaleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetra-allylethyl-ethanolpropylene trimethyl meth) ally le acrylate, allyl ethers of alcohols from the sugar series, or other allyl- or vinyl ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, as well as allyl esters of derivatives of phosphoric acid and / or vinylphosphonic, or mixtures of these compounds.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the crosslinking agent is chosen from methylene-bis-acrylamide, allyl methacrylate or trimethylol propane triacrylate (TMPTA). The crosslinking rate generally ranges from 0.01 to 10% by mole and more particularly from 0.2 to 2% by mole relative to the polymer.

The AMPS polymers suitable for the invention are water-soluble or water-dispersible. They are in this case:

- or "homopolymers" comprising only AMPS® monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above;

- Either copolymers obtained from AMPS ^ and one or more hydrophilic or hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above.

When said copolymers contain hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers, the latter do not contain a fatty chain and are preferably present in small amounts.

“Fat chain” is understood to mean, within the meaning of the present invention, any hydrocarbon chain containing at least 7 carbon atoms.

By “water-soluble or water-dispersible” is meant polymers which, introduced into an aqueous phase at 25 ° C., at a mass concentration equal to 1%, allow a macroscopically homogeneous and transparent solution to be obtained, that is to say having a maximum light transmittance value, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a sample 1 cm thick, of at least 60%, preferably at least 70%.

The “homopolymers” according to the invention are preferably crosslinked and neutralized, and they can be obtained according to the preparation process comprising the following steps:

- (a) dispersing or dissolving the monomer such as AMPS® in free form in a solution of tert-butanol or of water and of tert-butanol;

- (b) the solution or dispersion of monomer obtained in (a) is neutralized with one or more mineral or organic bases, preferably ammonia NH ₃ , in an amount making it possible to obtain a rate of neutralization of the sulfonic acid functions polymer ranging from 90 to 100%;

- (c) adding to the solution or dispersion obtained in (b), the crosslinking monomer (s);

- (d) a conventional radical polymerization is carried out in the presence of free radical initiators at a temperature ranging from 10 to 150 ° C; the polymer precipitating in the solution or dispersion based on tert-butanol.

The water-soluble or water-dispersible copolymers of AMPS ^ according to the invention contain water-soluble ethylenically unsaturated monomers, hydrophobic monomers or their mixtures.

The water-soluble co-monomers can be ionic or non-ionic.

Among the ionic water-soluble co-monomers, mention may be made, for example, of the following compounds and their salts:

- (meth) acrylic acid,

- styrene sulfonic acid,

- vinylsulfonic acid and (meth) allylsulfonic acid,

- vinyl phophonic acid,

- maleic acid,

- itaconic acid,

- crotonic acid,

- the water-soluble vinyl monomers of formula (A) below:

[Chem. 7]

O = CR, ‘Â '(A)

CO i

X, in which:

- Ri is chosen from H, -CH ₃ , -C ₂ H ₅ or -C ₃ H ₇ ;

- Xi is chosen from:

- alkyl oxides of type -OR ₂ where R ₂ is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, substituted by at least one

Sulfonic group (-SO ₃ -) and / or sulfate (-SO ₄ -) and / or phosphate (-PO ₄ H ₂ -).

Among the nonionic water-soluble co-monomers, there may be mentioned, for example:

- (meth) acrylamide,

- N-vinylacetamide and N-methyl N-vinylacetamide,

- N-vinylformamide and N-methyl N-vinylformamide,

- maleic anhydride,

- vinylamine,

- N-vinyllactams comprising a cyclic alkyl group having from 4 to 9 carbon atoms, such as N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-butyrolactam and N-vinylcaprolactam,

- vinyl alcohol of formula CH ₂ = CHOH,

- the water-soluble vinyl monomers of formula (B) below:

[Chem. 8]

[0168]

[0169]

In which:

- R ₃ is chosen from H, -CH ₃ , -C ₂ H ₅ or -C ₃ H ₇ ;

- X ₂ is chosen from alkyl oxides of the -OR ^ type where R ₄ is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbons, optionally substituted by a halogen atom (iodine, bromine, chlorine, fluorine); a hydroxy group (-OH); ether.

Examples include glycidyl (meth) acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, and (meth) acrylates of ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol or polyalkylene glycol.

Among the hydrophobic comonomers without a fatty chain, there may be mentioned for example:

- styrene and its derivatives such as 4-butylstyrene, alpha methylstyrene and vinyltoluene;

- vinyl acetate of formula CH ₂ = CH-OCOCH ₃ ;

- vinyl ethers of formula CH ₂ = CHOR in which R is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbons;

- 1 acrylonitrile;

- caprolactone;

- vinyl chloride and vinylidene chloride;

- silicone derivatives, leading after polymerization to silicone polymers such as methacryloxypropyltris (trimethylsiloxy) silane and silicone methacrylamides;

- the hydrophobic vinyl monomers of formula (C) below:

[Chem.9]

H., C = CR z I 4 CO I ^X 3

In which:

- R4 is chosen from H, -CH ₃ , -C ₂ H ₅ or -C ₃ H ₇

- X ₃ is chosen from:

- alkyl oxides of type -OR ₅ where R ₅ is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

Let us quote for example, methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl (meth) acrylate, tert-butyl (meth) acrylate, cyclohexyl acrylate and isobomyl acrylate and 2-hexyl ethyl acrylate.

The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS ^ polymers of the invention preferably have a molar mass ranging from 50,000 g / mole to 10,000,000 g / mole, preferably from 80,000 g / mole to 8,000,000 g / mole, and even more preferably from 100,000 g / mole to 7,000,000 g / mole.

As water-soluble or water-dispersible homopolymers of AMPS® suitable for the invention, there may be mentioned, for example, crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymers of sodium acrylamide-2-methyl propane sulfonate such as that used in the commercial product Simulgel 800® (CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate), crosslinked polymers of acrylamide-2-methyl propane ammonium sulfonate (INCI name: Ammonium Polydimethyltauramide) than those described in patent EP 0 815 928 B1 and as the product sold under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS ^ by the company Clariant.

As water-soluble or water-dispersible copolymers of AMPS® in accordance with the invention, there may be mentioned, for example:

- crosslinked acrylamide / acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate copolymers of sodium such as that used in the commercial product SEPIGEL 305® (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / Ci ₃ -Ci4 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) or that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel 600® (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate-80) by the company Seppic;

- the copolymers of AMPS ^ and of vinylpyrrolidone or of vinylformamide such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Aristoflex AVC ^ by the company Clariant (name CTFA: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer) but neutralized by soda or potash ;

- the copolymers of AMPS ^ and sodium acrylate, such as for example the copolymer AMPS / sodium acrylate such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel EG ^ by the company Seppic or under the trade name Sepinov EM (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer);

- the copolymers of AMPS ^ and of hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as for example the copolymer AMPS ^ / hydroxyethyl acrylate such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel NS ^ by the company Seppic (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (And) Squalane (And) Polysorbate 60) or as the product marketed under the name Acrylamido-2-Methylpropane Sulfonate / Hydroxyethylacrylate copolymer as the commercial product Sepinov EMT 10® (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer).

As water-soluble or water-dispersible copolymers of preferred AMPS in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of copolymers of AMPS ^ and of hydroxyethyl acrylate.

In general, an aqueous phase according to the invention can comprise from 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 0.2 to 8%, more preferably from 0.5 to 6%, and even from 0 , 5 to 5%, by weight in dry matter of polyacrylamide (s) and / or polymer (s) and copolymer (s) of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, crosslinked (s) and / or neutralized (s) ) in relation to its total weight.

B.3 Carboxyvinyl polymers, modified or not

The modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers can be copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer (a) chosen from a, b-ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids or their esters, with at least one monomer (b) with ethylenic unsaturation comprising a hydrophobic group.

By "copolymers" is meant both the copolymers obtained from two kinds of monomers as those obtained from more than two kinds of monomers such as the terpolymers obtained from three kinds of monomers.

Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit. The term “hydrophobic group or unit” means a radical with a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

Preferably, these copolymers are chosen from the copolymers resulting from the polymerization:

[0183] - at least one monomer of the following formula (1):

[Chem. 10]

CH, “G— G— OH ² ih Ri O (D

In which, Ri denotes H or CH ₃ or C ₂ H ₅ , that is to say monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid, and

- at least one monomer of the alkyl ester (Ci ₀ -C ₃₀ ) type of unsaturated carboxylic acid corresponding to the monomer of formula (2) below: [Chem. 11]

CH, = C — G— I II Rz ° (2)

In which, R ₂ denotes H or CH ₃ or C ₂ H ₅ (that is to say acrylate, methacrylate or ethacrylate units) and preferably H (acrylate units) or CH ₃ (methacrylate units), R ₃ denoting a C ₁ -C ₃₀ , and preferably C ₂ -C _22, alkyl radical.

The alkyl esters (C10-C30) of unsaturated carboxylic acids are preferably chosen from lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, 1 ' dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, such as lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate, and dodecyl methacrylate and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, these polymers are crosslinked.

Among this type of copolymers, use will be made more particularly of polymers resulting from the polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising:

- mainly acrylic acid,

an ester of formula (2) described above and in which R2 denotes H or CH3, R3 denotes an alkyl radical having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and

- a crosslinking agent, which is a well known copolymerizable polyethylene unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth) acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly) ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and methylene-bis-acrylamide.

Among this type of copolymers, use will be made more particularly of those consisting of 95% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4% to 40% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate ( hydrophobic unit), and 0% to 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or else those consisting of 98% to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1% to 4% by weight of acrylate C10-C30 alkyls (hydrophobic unit), and 0.1% to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer such as those described above.

Among said polymers above, very particularly preferred according to the present invention, the acrylate / C10-C30-alkylacrylate copolymers (INCI name: Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl acrylate Crosspolymer) such as the products sold by the company Lubrizol under the trade names Pemulen® TR-1, Pemulen® TR-2, Carbopol® 1382, Carbopol® EDT 2020, Carbopol Ultrez 20 Polymer® and even more preferably Pemulen® TR-2.

Among the carboxyvinyl polymers modified or not, mention may also be made of sodium polyacrylates such as those sold under the name Cosmedia SP® containing 90% dry matter and 10% water, or Cosmedia SPL® in reverse emulsion containing approximately 60% dry matter, an oil (hydrogenated polydecene) and a surfactant (PPG-5 Laureth-5), both sold by the company Cognis.

Mention may also be made of partially neutralized sodium polyacrylates being in the form of a reverse emulsion comprising at least one polar oil, for example that sold under the name Luvigel® EM by the company BASF.

The modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers can also be chosen from homopolymers of cross-linked (meth) acrylic acid.

By “(meth) acrylic” within the meaning of the present application, one understands “acrylic or methacrylic”.

By way of example, mention may be made of those sold by Lubrizol under the names Carbopol® 910, 934, 940, 941, 934 P, 980, 981, 2984, 5984, Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer®, or by 3V- Sigma under the name Synthalen® K, Synthalen® L, or Synthalen® M.

Among the carboxyvinyl polymers modified or not, mention may in particular be made of Carbopol (CTFA name: Carbomer) and Pemulen® (INCI name: Acrylates / C10-C30Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) sold by the company Lubrizol.

The carboxyvinyl polymers, modified or not, may be present in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight in dry matter relative to the weight of the aqueous phase, in particular from 0.3 to 8% by weight, preferably between 0.4 and 6% relative to the weight of the aqueous phase.

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises a hydrophilic polymeric gelling agent chosen from copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, crosslinked and / or neutralized.

According to another preferred variant, the synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent is a copolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid and of hydroxyethyl acrylate.

[0200] III. Other hydrophilic gelling agents

These gelling agents are more particularly chosen from mixed silicates and fumed silicas.

[0202] ΠΙ.A. Mixed silicate

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “mixed silicate” means all the silicates of natural or synthetic origin containing several (two or more) types of cations chosen from alkali metals (for example Na, Li, K) or alkaline - earthy (eg Be, Mg, Ca), transition metals and aluminum.

According to a particular embodiment, the mixed silicate or silicates are in the form of solid particles containing at least 10% by weight of at least one silicate relative to the total weight of the particles. In the remainder of this description, these particles are designated by “silicate particles”.

[0205] Preferably, the silicate particles contain less than 1% by weight of aluminum relative to the total weight of the particles. Even more preferably, they contain from 0 to 1% by weight of aluminum relative to the total weight of the particles.

Preferably, the silicate particles contain at least 50% by weight of silicate, better still at least 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the particles. Particles containing at least 90% by weight of silicates, relative to the total weight of the particles, are particularly preferred.

[0207] In particular, it is a silicate or a mixture of silicates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, of aluminum or of iron.

Preferably, it is sodium silicate, magnesium and / or lithium.

To guarantee good cosmetic properties, these silicates are generally in a finely divided form, and in particular in the form of particles having an average size ranging from 2 nm to 1 μm (from 2 nm to 1000 nm), and of preferably from 5 nm to 600 nm, and even more preferably from 20 to 250 nm.

The silicate particles can have any shape, for example the shape of spheres, flakes, needles, plates, discs, sheets, or completely random shapes. Preferably, the silicate particles are in the form of discs or sheets.

Also by "average size" of particles is meant the number average size of the largest dimension (length) that it is possible to measure between two diametrically opposite points of an individual particle. The size can be determined for example by transmission electron microscopy, or from the measurement of the specific surface by the BET method, or even by means of a laser granulometer.

When the particles in the form of discs or sheets, they generally have a thickness ranging from approximately 0.5 to 5 nm.

The silicate particles can consist of an alloy with metal or metalloid oxides, obtained for example by thermal fusion of its various constituents. When the particles further comprise such a metal or metalloid oxide, the latter is preferably chosen from silicon, boron or aluminum oxide.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the silicates are phyllosilicates, namely silicates having a structure in which the SiO4 tetrahedra are organized in sheets between which the metal cations are found.

The mixed silicates suitable for the invention can be chosen for example from montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellite, saponites. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the mixed silicates used are more particularly chosen from hectorites and bentonites, and even better from laponites.

A family of silicates which is particularly preferred in the compositions of the present invention is therefore that of the laponites. Laponites are magnesium, sodium and possibly lithium silicates, having a layered structure similar to that of montmorillonites. Laponite is the synthetic form of the natural mineral called "hectorite". The synthetic origin of this family of silicates has a considerable advantage over the natural form because it allows good control of the composition of the product. In addition, laponites have the advantage of having a much smaller particle size than natural hectorite and bentonite.

As laponites, there may be mentioned in particular the products sold under the following names: Laponite® XLS, Laponite® XLG, Laponite® RD, Laponite® RDS, LAPONITE® XL21 (these products are sodium and magnesium silicates and sodium, lithium and magnesium silicates) by Rockwood Additives Limited.

Such gelling agents can be used in an amount of 0.1% to 8% by weight in dry matter relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, in particular from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and in particular from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

[0219] III.B. Hydrophilic fumed silica

[0220] The fumed silicas according to the present invention are hydrophilic.

The hydrophilic fumed silicas are obtained by continuous flame pyrolysis at 1000 ° C of silicon tetrachloride (SiC14) in the presence of hydrogen and oxygen. Among the hydrophilic fumed silicas which can be used according to the present invention, there may be mentioned in particular those sold by the company DEGUSSA or EVONIK DEGUSSA under the trade names AEROSIL® 90, 130, 150, 200, 300 and 380, or also by the company CABOT under the name Carbosil H5®.

According to a preferred embodiment, a homopolymer of a monomer with a sulfonic group according to the invention is a crosslinked homopolymer of acrylamide-2-methyl propane ammonium sulfonate, preferably of INCI name: Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide such as described in the patent

EP0815928B1 and such as the product sold under the trade name Hostacerin

AMPS® by the company Clariant.

Such gelling agents can be used at a rate of 0.1% to 10% by weight in dry matter relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, in particular from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and in particular from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

[0225] Lipophilic gelling agent

By "lipophilic gelling agent" for the purposes of the present invention, a compound capable of gelling the oily phase of the compositions according to the invention.

The gelling agent is lipophilic therefore present in the oily phase of the composition.

The gelling agent is liposoluble or lipodispersible.

As is apparent from the following, the lipophilic gelling agent is advantageously chosen from particulate gelling agents, organopolysiloxane elastomers, semi-crystalline polymers, dextrin esters, hydrogen-bonded polymers, also hydrocarbon block copolymers called block copolymers and their blends.

[0230] I. Particulate gelling agents

The particulate gelling agent used in the composition according to the invention is in the form of particles, preferably spherical.

By way of illustration of the lipophilic particulate gelling agents which are suitable for the invention, mention may be made in particular of waxes, polar and apolar, modified clays, silicas such as fumed silicas and hydrophobic silica aerogels.

According to a particular mode of the invention, the particulate gelling agent used in the composition according to the invention can also be a filler with a blurring effect within the meaning of the invention.

The waxes

By "wax" considered in the context of the present invention generally means a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C), change of solid / liquid state reversible, having a point of melting greater than or equal to 30 ° C up to 200 ° C and in particular up to 120 ° C.

Within the meaning of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments.

The measurement protocol is as follows:

A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20 ° C to 100 ° C, at the heating rate of 10 ° C / minute, then is cooled by 100 ° C to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the wax sample is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.

The waxes capable of being used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes, solid, at room temperature of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin and their mixtures.

Waxes, within the meaning of the invention, can be those generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological fields. They can in particular be polar or apolar, silicone and / or fluorinated hydrocarbons, optionally comprising ester or hydroxyl functions. They can also be of natural or synthetic origin.

A) Apolar waxes

By “apolar wax”, within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a wax whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C as defined below, ôa is equal to 0 (J / c 1113) ½.

The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C. M. Hansen: "The three dimensionnai solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).

According to this Hansen space:

- ôD characterizes the London dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular shocks;

- caractér characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;

- oh characterizes the specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonds, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.);

- ôa is determined by the equation: ôa = (öp ² + 611 ² ) ½.

The parameters öp, ôh, ôD and ôa are expressed in (.1 / 01113) ½.

Apolar waxes are in particular hydrocarbon waxes consisting only of carbon and hydrogen atoms and free of hetero atoms such as N, O, Si and P.

Apolar waxes are chosen from microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, and their mixtures.

[0247]

As ozokerite there may be mentioned Ozokerite Wax SP 1020 P®.

[0249]

As microcrystalline waxes which can be used, mention may be made of Multiwax W 445® sold by the company Sonneborn, Microwax HW® and Base Wax 30540® sold by the company Paramelt, and Cerewax® N ° 3 sold by the company Baerlocher.

[0251]

As micro-waxes which can be used in the compositions according to the invention as apolar wax, mention may be made in particular of polyethylene micro-waxes such as those sold under the names of Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by Micro Powders.

As polyethylene wax, mention may be made of Performalene 500-L® Polyethylene and Performalene 400® Polyethylene marketed by New Phase Technologies, Asensa® SC 211 marketed by the company Honeywell.

B) Polar wax

By “polar wax”, within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a wax whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C ôa is different from 0 (.1 / 01113) ½.

In particular, by "polar wax" means a wax whose chemical structure is formed essentially, even constituted, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one strongly electronegative heteroatom such as an atom oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus.

The polar waxes can in particular be hydrocarbon-based, fluorinated or silicone-based.

Preferably, the polar waxes can be hydrocarbon-based.

By “hydrocarbon wax” is meant a wax formed essentially, or even made up, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen, nitrogen atoms, and not containing any atom. silicon or fluorine. It can contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

By "ester wax" is understood according to the invention a wax comprising at least one ester function. By "alcohol wax" is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is to say comprising at least one free hydroxyl group (OH).

It is possible in particular to use as ester wax:

- ester waxes such as those chosen from:

i) the waxes of formula R1COOR2 in which RI and R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains whose number of atoms varies from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as O, N or P and whose point temperature of melting varies from 25 to 120 ° C.

ii) di- (trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) tetrastearate, sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene.

iii) diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R3 - (- OCO-R4-COO-R5), in which R3 and R5 are identical or different, preferably identical and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group (group alkyl comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R4 represents a C4-C30 aliphatic group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) branched linear may or may not contain one or more unsaturation (s), and preferably linear and unsaturated.

iv) Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having fatty chains, linear or branched, of C8-C32, for example such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, as well as the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol.

v) beeswax, synthetic beeswax, polyglycerolated beeswax, carnauba wax, candellila wax, oxypropylenated lanolin wax, rice bran wax, Ouricury wax , Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, Orange wax, Bay laurel wax, Hydrogenated jojoba, sunflower wax, lemon wax, olive wax, berry wax.

According to another embodiment, the polar wax can be an alcohol wax. By "alcohol wax" is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is to say comprising at least one free hydroxyl group (OH).

As alcohol wax, there may be mentioned for example the wax C30-C50 Alcohols Performacol® 550 Alcohol sold by the company New Phase Technologie, stearic alcohol, cetyl alcohol.

It is also possible to use silicone waxes which can advantageously be substituted polysiloxanes, preferably at low melting point.

By "silicone wax" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-O groups.

Among the commercial silicone waxes of this type, there may be mentioned in particular those sold under the names Abilwax 9800, 9801 or 9810 (Goldschmidt), KF910® and KF7002® (Shin Etsu), or 176-1118-3® and 176-11481® (General Electric).

The silicone waxes which can be used can also be alkyl or alkoxydimethicones, as well as the (C20-C60) alkyldimethicones, in particular the (C30-C45) alkyldimethicones such as the silicone wax sold under the name SF

1642® by the company GE-Bayer Silicones® or the C30-C45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane under the name SW-8005® C30 Resin Wax marketed by the company Dow Corning.

In the context of the present invention, mention may be made, as particularly advantageous waxes, of polyethylene waxes, jojoba wax, candelilla wax and silicone waxes, in particular candelilla wax.

They can be present in the oily phase at a rate of 0.5% to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the oily phase, for example between 5% and 20% of the oily phase, and more particularly of 2 % to 15% by weight relative to the weight of the oily phase.

The modified clays

The composition according to the invention can comprise at least one lipophilic clay.

The clays can be natural or synthetic and they are made lipophilic by treatment with an alkyl ammonium salt such as a C 10 -C 22 ammonium chloride, for example di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride.

They can be chosen from bentonites, in particular hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolite, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites.

Preferably, they are chosen from hectorites.

Preferably, as lipophilic clays, the hectorites modified with an ammonium chloride in CIO to C22, such as hectorite modified with di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride such as, for example, are used that marketed under the name Bentone 38V® by the company Elementis or the bentone gel in isododecane sold under the name Bentone Gel ISD V® (Isododecane 87% / Disteardimonium Hectorite 10% / Propylene carbonate 3%) by the company Elementis.

Lipophilic clay can in particular be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 10%, more particularly from 1% to 10% by weight relative to to the total weight of the oily phase.

[0277] The silicas

The oily phase of a composition according to the invention can also comprise, as a gelling agent, a fumed silica or silica airgel particles.

A) Pyrogenic silica

Particularly suitable for the invention, pyrogenic silica treated hydrophobically at the surface. It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a reduction in the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.

The hydrophobic groups can be:

- Trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica silylate" according to the CTLA (8th edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the Aerosil R812® references by the company Degussa, CAB-O-SIL TS-530® by the company Cabot.

- dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are in particular obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R972®, and Aerosil R974® by the company Degussa, CABO-SIL TS-610® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720® by the company Cabot.

The fumed silicas can be present in a composition according to the present invention in a proportion of between 0.1% and 40% by weight, more particularly between 1% and 15% by weight and even more particularly between 2 % and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

B) Hydrophobic silica aerogels

The oily phase of a composition according to the invention can also comprise, as gelling agent, at least particles of silica aerogels.

[0284] Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.

They are generally synthesized by the sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then usually dried by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying prevents contraction of the pores and the material. The sol-gel process and the different dryings are described in detail in Brinker CL, and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academie Press, 1990.

The hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m2 / g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m2 / g and better still from 600 to 800 m2 / g, and a size expressed in volume average diameter (D [0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 pm, better from 1 to 1000 pm, preferably from 1 to 100 pm, in particular from 1 to 30 pm, more preferably from 5 to 25 pm, better from 5 to 20 pm and even better still from 5 to 15 pm.

According to one embodiment, the particles of hydrophobic silica aerogels used in the present invention have a size expressed in mean diameter by volume (D [0.5]) ranging from 1 to 30 μm, preferably from 5 at 25 pm, better from 5 to 20 pm and even better still from 5 to 15 pm.

The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method called the BET method (Brunauer - Emmet - Teller) described in "The journal of the American Chemical Society", vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix D). The BET specific surface corresponds to the total specific surface of the particles considered.

The sizes of the silica airgel particles can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer of the MasterSizer 2000 type from Malvern. The data is processed on the basis of Mie diffusion theory. This theory, exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" diameter of particles. This theory is described in particular in Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles", Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

According to an advantageous embodiment, the particles of hydrophobic silica aerogels used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (MS) ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.

The silica airgel particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a packed density p ranging from 0.02 to 0.10 g / cm3, preferably from 0.03 to 0.08 g / cm3, in particular ranging from 0.05 to 0.08 g / cm3.

In the context of the present invention, this density can be assessed according to the following protocol, known as the packed density:

40 g of powder are poured into a graduated cylinder; then place the test tube on the STAV 2003 device from Stampf Volumeter; the test piece is then subjected to a series of 2,500 settlements (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between 2 consecutive tests is less than 2%); then the final volume Vf of packed powder is measured directly on the test-tube. The packed density is determined by the ratio m / Vf, in this case 40 / Vf (Vf being expressed in cm3 and m in g).

According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit volume SV ranging from 5 to 60 m2 / cm3, preferably from 10 to 50 m2 / cm3 and better from 15 to 40 m2 / cm3.

The specific surface area per unit of volume is given by the relation:

SV = SM x p ^ where p is the packed density expressed in g / cm3 is the packed density expressed in g / cm3 and SM is the specific surface per unit of mass expressed in m2 / g, as defined above.

Preferably, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles according to the invention have an oil absorption capacity measured at the Wet Point ranging from 5 to 18 ml / g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml / g and better from 8 to 12 ml / g.

The absorption capacity measured at the Wet Point, and denoted Wp, corresponds to the amount of oil which must be added to 100 g of particles to obtain a homogeneous paste.

It is measured according to the so-called Wet Point method or method for determining the intake of powder oil described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the quantity of oil adsorbed on the available surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder by measuring the Wet Point, described below:

[0299] An amount m = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate and then the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is added dropwise. After adding 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, mix with a spatula and continue to add oil until conglomerates of oil and powder form. From this point, add the oil one drop at a time and then triturate the mixture with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm and smooth paste is obtained. This paste should be allowed to spread on the glass plate without cracks or lump formation. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used is then noted.

[0300] The oil intake corresponds to the Vs / m ratio.

The aerogels used according to the present invention are hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably silylated silica (INCI name: silica silylate).

“Hydrophobic silica” means any silica the surface of which is treated with silylating agents, for example with halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl Si-Rn groups, for example trimethylsilyl groups.

Regarding the preparation of hydrophobic silica airgel particles modified on the surface by silylation, reference may be made to document US 7,470,725.

Use will preferably be made of hydrophobic silica airgel particles surface-modified by trimethylsilyl groups, preferably of the name INCI Silica silylate.

As hydrophobic silica aerogels which can be used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of the airgel marketed under the name VM-2260® or VM-2270® (INCI name: Silica Silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size of around 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.

Mention may also be made of the aerogels sold by the company Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201®, Aerogel OGD 201®, Aerogel TLD 203®, ENOVA® Aerogel MT 1100®, ENOVA Aerogel MT 1200®.

We will preferably use T airgel marketed under the name VM-2270 (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.

Preferably, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles are present in the composition according to the invention in a dry matter content ranging from 0.1 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

[0309] II. Organopolysiloxane elastomer

The organopolysiloxane elastomer, which can be used as a lipophilic gelling agent, has the advantage of giving the composition according to the invention good application properties. It provides a very soft and mattifying feel after application, particularly advantageous for application to the skin. It can also allow effective filling of the hollows present on keratin materials.

By "organopolysiloxane elastomer" or "silicone elastomer" is meant a flexible, deformable organopolysiloxane having viscoelastic properties and in particular the consistency of a sponge or a flexible sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material resists deformation and has a limited capacity for extension and contraction. This material is able to return to its original shape after stretching.

[0312] It is more particularly a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer.

Thus, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of diorganopolysiloxane having ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, in particular in the presence of platinum catalyst; or by dehydrogenation crosslinking condensation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane with hydroxyl endings and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon, in particular in the presence of an organotin; or by crosslinking condensation reaction of a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and of a hydrolyzable organopolysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, in particular in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane by high energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays, electron beam.

Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each linked to a silicon, and (B) of diorganopolysiloxane having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups linked to silicon, in particular in the presence (C) of a platinum catalyst, as for example described in application EP-A-295886.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy endings and methylhydrogenopolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy endings, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

The compound (A) is the basic reagent for the formation of elastomeric organopolysiloxane and the crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of the compound (A) with the compound (B) in the presence of the catalyst (C).

The compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least two hydrogen atoms linked to distinct silicon atoms in each molecule.

The compound (A) can have any molecular structure, in particular a linear chain or branched chain structure or a cyclic structure.

The compound (A) can have a viscosity at 25 ° C ranging from 1 to 50,000 centistokes, in particular to be well miscible with the compound (B).

The organic groups linked to the silicon atoms of compound (A) can be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.

The compound (A) can thus be chosen from methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes with trimethylsiloxy endings, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy endings, cyclic dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers.

Compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example C2-C4); the lower alkenyl group can be chosen from vinyl, allyl, and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups can be located in any position of the organopolysiloxane molecule but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule. Organopolysiloxane (B) can have a branched chain, straight chain, cyclic or network structure but the straight chain structure is preferred. Compound (B) can have a viscosity ranging from a liquid state to a gum state. Preferably, the compound (B) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25 ° C.

In addition to the abovementioned alkenyl groups, the other organic groups linked to the silicon atoms in the compound (B) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.

[0324] The organopolysiloxane (B) can be chosen from methylvinylpolysiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane, the diméthylsiloxaneméthylphénylsiloxane copolymers terminally dimethylvinylsiloxy groups, dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers terminated dimethylpolysiloxanes, copolymers of dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane with trimethylsiloxy endings, the dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy endings, the methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) - polysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy endings, and the dimethylsiloxanemethyl (3,3,3-trifluoroxyloxyl) ethylene copolymers.

In particular, the elastomeric organopolysiloxane can be obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy endings and methylhydrogenpolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy endings, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of the compound (B) and the number of hydrogen atoms linked to silicon atoms per molecule of the compound (A) is at least 5.

It is advantageous for the compound (A) to be added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms linked to silicon atoms in the compound (A) and the total amount of all the ethylenically unsaturated groups in the compound (B) is in the range from 1.5 / 1 to 20/1.

Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is in particular chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, black platinum, and platinum on support.

The catalyst (C) is preferably added from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of the compounds (A ) and B).

The elastomer is advantageously a non-emulsifying elastomer.

The term "non-emulsifying" defines organopolysiloxane elastomers not containing a hydrophilic chain, and in particular not containing polyoxyalkylene units (especially polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene), or of polyglyceryl unit. Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer devoid of polyoxyalkylene units and of polyglyceryl unit.

In particular, the silicone elastomer used in the present invention is chosen from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3 ( INCI name).

The particles of organopolysiloxane elastomers can be conveyed in the form of a gel consisting of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and / or a silicone oil. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles are often non-spherical particles.

Non-emulsifying elastomers are described in particular in EP patents 242

219, EP 285 886, EP 765 656 and in application JP-A-61-194009.

The silicone elastomer is generally in the form of a gel, a paste or a powder but advantageously in the form of a gel in which the silicone elastomer is dispersed in a silicone oil linear (dimethicone) or cyclic (ex: cyclopentasiloxane), advantageously in a linear silicone oil.

As non-emulsifying elastomers, one can more particularly use those sold under the names “KSG-6®”, “KSG-15®”, “KSG-16®”, “KSG18®”, “KSG-41®” , "KSG-42®", "KSG-43®", "KSG-44®", by the company Shin Etsu, "DC9040®", "DC9041®", by the company Dow Corning, "SFE 839®" by General Electric.

According to a particular embodiment, a silicone elastomer gel dispersed in a silicone oil chosen from a non-exhaustive list comprising cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dimethicones, dimethylsiloxanes, methyl trimethicone, phenylmethicone, phenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, and the cyclomethicone, preferably a linear silicone oil chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) or dimethicones with a viscosity at 25 ° C ranging from 1 to 500 and at 25 ° C, optionally modified by aliphatic groups, optionally fluorinated, or by functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups.

Mention may in particular be made of the following compounds with the name INCI:

[0339] Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as “USG-105®” and “USG107A®” from the company Shin Etsu; "DC9506®" and "DC9701®" from the company Dow Corning, Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Dimethicone, such as "KSG-6®" and "KSG-16®" from the company Shin Etsu;

Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Cyclopentasiloxane, such as "KSG-15®";

Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "DC9040®", "DC9045®" and "DC5930®" from Dow Corning;

Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "DC9041®" from the company Dow Corning;

Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "Dow Corning EL-9240® silicone elastomer blend" from the company Dow Corning (mixture of polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked with hexadiene / polydimethysiloxane (2 cSt));

C4-C24 Alkyl Dimethicone / DivinylDimethicone Crosspolymer, such as NuLastic Silk MA® by the company Alzo.

As examples of silicone elastomers dispersed in a linear silicone oil which can advantageously be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of the following references:

- Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Dimethicone, such as "KSG6®" and "KSG-16®" from the company Shin Etsu;

- Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "DC9041" from the company Dow Corning; and

Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "Dow Corning EL-9240® silicone elastomer blend" from the company Dow Corning (mixture of polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked by Hexadiene / Polydimethysiloxane (2 cSt)).

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one crosslinked silicone elastomer of INCI name "dimethicone crosspolymer" or "dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer", preferably with a dimethicone of viscosity ranging from 1 to 100 is, in particular from 1 to 10 is at 25 ° C., such as the mixture of Polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked with Hexadiene / Polydimethylsiloxane (5cst) marketed under the name DC 9041 by the company Dow Corning or the mixture of Polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked with Hexadiene / Polydimethylsiloxane (2c st) marketed under the name EL-9240® by the company Dow Corning.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one crosslinked silicone elastomer of INCI name "dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer", preferably with a dimethicone having a viscosity ranging from 1 to 100 is, in particular from 1 to 10 is at 25 ° C., such as the mixture of Hexadiene cross-linked Polydimethylsiloxane / Polydimethylsiloxane (5 cst) sold under the name DC 9041® by the company Dow Corning.

The particles of organopolysiloxane elastomers can also be used in the form of powder, mention may in particular be made of the powders sold under the names "Dow Corning 9505 Powder®", "Dow Corning 9506® Powder" by the company Dow Corning , these powders are called INCI: Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone crosspolymer.

The organopolysiloxane powder can also be coated with silsesquioxane resin, as described for example in US patent 5,538,793. Such elastomer powders are sold under the names "KSP-100®", "KSP-101®", "KSP-102®", "KSP-103®", "KSP-104®", "KSP-105 ® ”by the company Shin Etsu, and have the name INCI: Vinyl Dimethicone / Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer.

As examples of organopolysiloxane powders coated with silsesquioxane resin which can advantageously be used according to the invention, there may be mentioned in particular the reference "KSP-100®" from the company Shin Etsu.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one crosslinked silicone elastomer of INCI name: Vinyl Dimethicone / Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, as an oily gelling agent and / or a fuzzy filler.

As preferred lipophilic gelling agent of the organopolysiloxane elastomer type, mention may be made in particular of the crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomers chosen from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone Crosspolymer3 (INCI name), and in particular Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name).

The organopolysiloxane elastomer may be present in a composition of the present invention at a content of between 0.2% and 15% by weight of active (dry) material, in particular between 0.2% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

The organopolysiloxane elastomer may be present in a composition of the present invention at a content of between 0.2% and 25% by weight of active material (dry), in particular between 1% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0350] III. Semi-crystalline polymers

The composition according to the invention can comprise at least one semi-crystalline polymer. Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymer has an organic structure, and a melting temperature greater than or equal to 30 ° C.

By “semi-crystalline polymer” is understood within the meaning of the invention, polymers comprising a crystallizable part and an amorphous part and having a reversible phase change temperature of the first order, in particular of fusion (solid transition -liquid). The crystallizable part is either a side chain (or pendant chain) or a sequence in the skeleton.

When the crystallizable part of the semi-crystalline polymer is a block of the polymer backbone, this crystallizable block is of a chemical nature different from that of the amorphous blocks; the semi-crystalline polymer is in this case a block copolymer, for example of the diblock, triblock or multiblock type. When the crystallizable part is a chain hanging from the skeleton, the semi-crystalline polymer can be a homopolymer or a copolymer.

The melting temperature of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably less than 150 ° C.

The melting temperature of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably greater than or equal to 30 ° C and less than 100 ° C. More preferably, the melting point of the semi-crystalline polymer is greater than or equal to 30 ° C and less than 70 ° C.

The semi-crystalline polymer or polymers according to the invention used are solids at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), the melting temperature of which is greater than or equal to 30 ° C. The melting point values correspond to the melting point measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company Mettler, with a rise in temperature of 5 or 10 ° C per minute (The melting point considered is the point corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak in the thermogram).

The semi-crystalline polymer (s) according to the invention preferably have a melting temperature higher than the temperature of the keratinous support intended to receive said composition, in particular the skin.

According to the invention, the semi-crystalline polymers are advantageously soluble in the fatty phase, in particular at least 1% by weight, at a temperature above their melting temperature. Apart from the crystallizable chains or sequences, the sequences of the polymers are amorphous.

By "crystallizable chain or sequence" is meant within the meaning of the invention a chain or sequence which if it were alone would pass from the amorphous state to the crystalline state, reversibly, depending on whether one is at above or below the melting temperature. A chain within the meaning of the invention is a group of atoms, pendant or lateral with respect to the polymer backbone. A sequence is a group of atoms belonging to the skeleton, a group constituting one of the repeating units of the polymer.

Preferably, the polymer backbone of semi-crystalline polymers is soluble in the fatty phase at a temperature above their melting temperature.

Preferably, the crystallizable blocks or chains of the semi-crystalline polymers represent at least 30% of the total weight of each polymer and better still at least 40%. The semi-crystalline polymers with crystallizable side chains are homo- or co-polymers. The semi-crystalline polymers of the invention with crystallizable blocks are copolymers, block or multi-block. They can be obtained by polymerization of monomer with reactive double bonds (or ethylenic) or by polycondensation. When the polymers of the invention are polymers with crystallizable side chains, the latter are advantageously in random or statistical form.

Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers of the invention are of synthetic origin.

According to a preferred embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer is chosen from:

- homopolymers and copolymers comprising units resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers carrying hydrophobic side chain (s) which can be crystallized,

- polymers carrying at least one crystallizable block in the backbone,

- polycondensates of polyester, aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic / aromatic type,

- copolymers of ethylene and propylene prepared by metallocene catalysis, and

- acrylate / silicone copolymers.

The semi-crystalline polymers which can be used in the invention can be chosen in particular from:

- block copolymers of polyolefins with controlled crystallization, the monomers of which are described in EP 0 951 897,

polycondensates and in particular of polyester, aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic / aromatic type,

- copolymers of ethylene and propylene prepared by metallocene catalysis,

- homo- or co-polymers carrying at least one crystallizable side chain and homo- or co-polymers carrying in the backbone at least one crystallizable sequence, such as those described in document US Pat. No. 5,156,911, such as (C10-C30) alkyl polyacrylates corresponding to the Intelimer ^ from Landec described in the brochure "Intelimer ^ polymers", Landec IP22® (Rev. 4-97®) and for example the product Intelimer ^ IPA 13-1 from the company Landec, which is a stearyl polyacrylate with a molecular weight of around 145,000 and a melting point of 49 ° C,

- homo- or co-polymers carrying at least one crystallizable side chain, in particular with fluorinated group (s), as described in document WO 01/19333, - acrylate / silicone copolymers, such as copolymers of acrylic acid and stearyl acrylate with polydimethylsiloxane grafts, copolymers of stearyl methacrylate with polydimethylsiloxane grafts, copolymers of acrylic acid and stearyl methacrylate with polydimethylsiloxane grafts, copolymers of methyl methacrylate, methacrylate ethyl-2-hexyl acrylate and stearyl methacrylate with polydimethylsiloxane grafts. Mention may in particular be made of the copolymers marketed by the company SHIN-ETSU under the names KP-561® (CTFA name: Acrylates / Dimethicone), KP-541® (CTFA name: Acrylates / Dimethicone and Isopropyl alcohol), KP-545® (CTFA name: Acrylates / Dimethicone and Cyclopentasiloxane),

- and their mixtures.

Preferably, the amount of semi-crystalline polymer (s), preferably chosen from semi-crystalline polymers with crystallizable side chains represents from 0.1% to 30% by weight in dry matter relative to the weight total of the oily phase, for example from 0.5% to 25% by weight, better still from 5% to 20%, or even from 5% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

[0366] IV. Dextrin esters

The composition according to the invention may comprise, as lipophilic gelling agent, at least one dextrin ester.

In particular, the composition preferably comprises at least one ester of dextrin and of fatty acid, preferably of C12 to C24, in particular of C14 to C18, or their mixtures.

Preferably, the dextrin ester is an ester of dextrin and of fatty acid C12-C18, in particular C14-C18.

[0370] Preferably, the dextrin ester is chosen from dextrin myristate and / or dextrin palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment, the dextrin ester is dextrin myristate, such as that especially sold under the name of Rheopearl MKL-2® by the company Chiba Flour Milling.

[0372] According to a preferred embodiment, the dextrin ester is dextrin palmitate. This can for example be chosen from those sold under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL® or Rheopearl® KL2 by the company Chiba Flour Milling.

In a particularly preferred manner, the oily phase of a composition according to the invention can comprise from 0.1% to 30% by weight of dextrin ester (s), preferably from 2% to 25% and preferably from 7.5% to 17% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

In a particularly preferred manner, the composition according to the invention can comprise between 0.1% and 10% by weight of dextrin palmitate, preferably between 0.5% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase. The dextrin palmitate can in particular be that marketed under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL® or Rheopearl® KL2 by the company Chiba Flour Milling.

[0375] V. Hydrogen-bonded polymers

Mention may be made, for example, of the hydrogen-bonded polymers suitable for the invention, polyamides and in particular hydrocarbon polyamides and silicone polyamides.

The polyamides

The oily phase of a composition according to the invention can comprise at least one polyamide chosen from hydrocarbon polyamides, silicone polyamides, and their mixtures.

Preferably, the total content of polyamide (s) is between 0.1% and 30% by weight expressed as dry matter, preferably between 0.1% and 20% by weight, preferably between 0, 5% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “polyamide” means a compound having at least 2 amide repeat units, preferably at least 3 amide repeat units and better still 10 amide repeat units.

A) Hydrocarbon polyamide

By “hydrocarbon polyamide” is meant a polyamide formed essentially, or even made up, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen, nitrogen atoms, and containing no atom of silicon or fluorine. It can contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

By “functionalized chain” within the meaning of the invention is meant an alkyl chain comprising one or more functional or reactive groups chosen in particular from hydroxyl, ether, esters, oxyalkylene or polyoxyalkylene groups.

Advantageously, this polyamide of the composition according to the invention has a weight-average molecular mass of less than 100,000 g / mol, in particular ranging from 1,000 to 100,000 g / mol, in particular less than 50,000 g / mol, in particular ranging from 1000 to 50,000 g / mol, and more particularly ranging from 1000 to 30,000 g / mol, preferably from 2000 to 20,000 g / mol, and better still from 2000 to 10,000 g / mol.

This polyamide is not soluble in water, in particular at 25 ° C.

According to a first embodiment of the invention, the polyamide used is a polyamide of formula (I): [Chem. 12]

X —C — R j- C — N H - R — NH -k C — C ~ X

L H Z H 3]:> H. · | I ο ο g c »

In which X represents a group -N (R1) 2 or a group -OR1 in which RI is a linear or branched C8 to C22 alkyl radical, which may be identical or different from each other, R2 is a C28-C42 diacid dimer residue, R3 is an ethylene diamine radical, n is between 2 and 5;

and their mixtures.

According to a particular embodiment, the polyamide used is an amide-terminated polyamide of formula (la): [Chem. 13]

X -kC — R - C — NH - R — NH -L · C — R ₅ —C -X

L H - H - In H 2 n

O O O O

In which X represents a group -N (R1) 2 in which RI is a linear or branched C8 to C22 alkyl radical, which may be identical or different from each other, R2 is a residue of diacid dimer in C28-C42, R3 is an ethylene diamine radical, n is between 2 and 5;

and their mixtures.

[0390] The oily phase of a composition according to the invention may also comprise, additionally in this case, at least one additional polyamide of formula (Ib):

[Chem. 14]

X -4 — C - R- c — NH -Rr- c— ’R, ~ - c-x

L μ * n - In μ: 2 n

Q 0 0 0

In which X represents a group -OR1 in which RI is a linear or branched C8 to C22, preferably C16 to C22 alkyl radical, which may be identical or different from each other, R2 is a residue of C28-C42 diacid dimer, R3 is an ethylene diamine radical, n is between 2 and 5, such as the commercial products sold by the company Arizona Chemical under the names Uniclear 80® and Uniclear 100® or even Uniclear 80 V® , Uniclear 100 V® and Uniclear 100 VG®, whose INCI name is “Ethylenediamine / Stearyl Dilinoleate Dimer Copolymer”.

B) Silicone polyamide

The silicone polyamides are preferably solid at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

The silicone polyamides can preferably be polymers comprising at least one unit of formula (III) or (IV):

[Chem. 15]

or

[Chem. 16]

in which :

R4, R5, R6 and R7, identical or different, represent a group chosen from:

saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic, C1 to C40 hydrocarbon groups, which may contain in their chain one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, and which may be partially or totally substituted by fluorine atoms, C6 to C10 aryl groups, optionally substituted by one or more C1 to C4 alkyl groups, polyorganosiloxane chains containing or not containing one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, X, identical or different, represent a linear or branched C1-C30 alkylene di-yl group, which may contain in its chain one or more oxygen and / or nitrogen atoms,

Y is a divalent linear or branched alkylene, arylene, cycloalkylene, alkylarylene or arylalkylene, saturated or unsaturated, C1 to C50 group, which may contain one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, and / or carry as a substitute for one of the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxy, C3 to C8 cycloalky, C1 to C40 alkyl, C5 to C10 aryl, phenyl optionally substituted with 1 to 3 C1 to C3 alkyl groups , C1 to C3 hydroxyalkyl and amino C1 to C6 alkyl, or Y represents a group corresponding to the formula: [Chem. 17] in which

T represents a trivalent or tetravalent hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C 3 to C 24 optionally substituted by a polyorganosiloxane chain, and which can contain one or more atoms chosen from O, N and S, or T represents a trivalent atom chosen from N, P and Al, and

R8 represents a linear or branched C1 to C50 alkyl group, or a polyorganosiloxane chain, which may contain one or more ester, amide, urethane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and / or sulfonamide groups which may or may not be linked to another chain of the polymer, n is an integer ranging from 2 to 500, preferably from 2 to 200 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 1000, preferably from 1 to 700 and better still from 6 to 200.

According to a particular embodiment, the silicone polyamide comprises at least one unit of formula (III) where m ranges from 50 to 200, in particular from 75 to 150, and preferably of the order of 100.

[0398] More preferably, R4, R5, R6 and R7 independently represent a linear or branched C1 to C40 alkyl group, preferably a CH3, C2H5, n C3H7 or isopropyl group in formula (III).

As an example of a silicone polymer which can be used, mention may be made of one of the silicone polyamides obtained in accordance with Examples 1 to 3 of document US Pat. No. 5,981,680.

Mention may be made of the compounds sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 2-8179® (DP 100®) and DC 2-8178® (DP 15®) whose INCI name is “Nylon611 / Dimethicone Copolymer” c ie Nylon-611 / Dimethicone copolymers. The silicone polymers and / or copolymers advantageously have a transition temperature from the solid state to the liquid state ranging from 45 ° C. to 190 ° C. Preferably, they have a transition temperature from the solid state to the liquid state ranging from 70 to 130 ° C and better still from 80 ° C to 105 ° C.

[0401] Preferably, the total content of polyamide (s) and / or silicone polyamide (s) is between 0.5% and 25% by weight of dry matter, in particular from 2% to 20% by weight, preferably between 2% and 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

Advantageously, the hydrogen-bonded polymer is chosen from the ethylenediamine / stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer and the nylon 611 / dimethicone copolymers.

VI. Hydrocarbon block copolymer

[0404] Mention may also be made, as representative of lipophilic gelling agents, of other polymeric gelling agents that are hydrocarbon block copolymers also called block copolymers.

[0405] The polymeric gelling agent is capable of thickening or gelling the hydrocarbon phase of the composition.

By “amorphous polymer” is meant a polymer which has no crystalline form.

The polymeric gelling agent is preferably also film-forming, that is to say that it is capable of forming a film when it is applied to the skin and / or the lips.

The hydrocarbon block copolymer may in particular be a diblock, triblock, multiblock, radial, star copolymer, or their mixtures.

[0409]

[0410] Such hydrocarbon block copolymers are described in application US-A-2002/005562 and in patent US-A-5,221,534.

The copolymer can have at least one block, the glass transition temperature of which is preferably less than 20 ° C., preferably less than or equal to 0 ° C., preferably less than or equal to -20 ° C., preferably still less than or equal to 40 ° C. The glass transition temperature of said block can be between 150 ° C and 20 ° C, in particular between -100 ° C and 0 C.

The hydrocarbon block copolymer present in the composition according to the invention is an amorphous copolymer formed by polymerization of an olefin. The olefin may in particular be an elastomeric ethylenically unsaturated monomer.

As an example of an olefin, mention may be made of ethylenic carbide monomers, having in particular one or two ethylenic unsaturations, having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethylene, propylene, butadiene, isoprene, or pentadiene.

[0414] Preferably, the hydrocarbon block copolymer is an amorphous block copolymer of styrene and olefin.

Preference is especially given to block copolymers comprising at least one styrene block and at least one block comprising units chosen from butadiene, ethylene, propylene, butylene, isoprene or one of their mixtures.

[0416] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrocarbon block copolymer is hydrogenated to reduce the residual ethylenic unsaturations after the polymerization of the monomers.

In particular, the hydrocarbon block copolymer is a copolymer, optionally hydrogenated, with styrene blocks and with ethylene / C ₃ -C ₄ alkylene blocks.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one diblock copolymer, preferably hydrogenated, preferably chosen from styrene-ethylene / propylene copolymers, styreneethylene / butadiene copolymers, copolymers of styrene-ethylene / butylene. Diblock polymers are sold in particular under the name Kraton ^ G1701E by the company Kraton Polymers.

Advantageously, a diblock copolymer such as those described above is used as the polymeric gelling agent, in particular a styreneethylene / propylene diblock copolymer, or a mixture of diblocks, as described above.

[0420] Thus, according to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises as lipophilic gelling agent at least one hydrocarbon block copolymer, preferably a copolymer, optionally hydrogenated, with styrene blocks and with ethylene / C alkylene blocks ₃ -C ₄ , even more preferably chosen from a diblock copolymer, preferably hydrogenated, such as a styrene-ethylene / propylene copolymer, a styrene-ethylene / butadiene copolymer.

The hydrocarbon block copolymer (or the mixture of hydrocarbon block copolymers) may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, better ranging from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0422] According to an advantageous variant, a composition according to the invention comprises a lipophilic gelling agent chosen from particulate gelling agents, organopolysiloxane elastomers, semi-crystalline polymers, dextrin esters, hydrogen-bonded polymers and their mixtures, and in particular at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer.

[0423] Hydrophilic gelling system (s) / lipophilic gelling system (s)

As preferred synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may more particularly be made of homopolymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2 methylpropane sulfonic acid and in particular the copolymers of AMPS® and of hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as for example the copolymer AMPS® / hydroxyethyl acrylate such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel NS® by the company Seppic (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyl Dimethyltaurate Copolymer (And) Squalane (And) Polysorbate-60 or as the marketed product under the name Acrylamido-2-Methyl Propane Sulfonate / Hydroxyethylacrylate Copolymer as the commercial product Sepinov EMT 10® (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer), crosslinked polymers of acrylamide-2-methyl propane sulfonate ammonium (INCI name: Ammonium Polydimethyltauramide) than those described in patent EP 0 815 928 B1 and such as the product sold under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS ^ by the company Clariant.

As preferred lipophilic gelling agents of the organopolysiloxane elastomer type, there may be mentioned more particularly the crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomers chosen from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3 (INCI name), and in particular Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name) and Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name).

According to a preferred embodiment, as preferred lipophilic gelling agents, mention may more particularly be made of silicone elastomer gels dispersed in a silicone oil and / or organopolysiloxane elastomer powders coated with silsesquioxane resin.

[0427] Thus, according to a particular embodiment, a silicone elastomer gel dispersed in a silicone oil chosen from a non-exhaustive list comprising cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dimethicones, dimethylsiloxanes, methyl trimethicone, phenylmethicone, phenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, is used. and cyclomethicone, preferably a linear silicone oil chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) or dimethicones with a viscosity at 25 ° C ranging from 1 to 500 is at 25 ° C, in particular the following references:

Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Dimethicone, such as "KSG-6" and "KSG-16" from Shin Etsu;

Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "DC9041" from the company Dow Corning; and Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "Dow Corning EL-9240® silicone elastomer blend" from the company Dow Corning.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one crosslinked silicone elastomer of INCI name "Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer", with preferably a dimethicone of viscosity ranging from to 100 is, in particular from 1 to 10 is at 25 ° C., such as the mixture of Polydimethylsiloxane by Hexadiene / Polydimethyl Siloxane (5 cst) marketed under the name DC 9041 Dow Corning and the mixture of Polydimethylsiloxane by Hexadiene / Polydimethyl Siloxane (2 cst) marketed under the name " Dow Corning EL-9240® Silicone Elastomer Blend ”from Dow Corning.

According to another particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with silsesquioxane resin, of INCI name: Vinyl Dimethicone / Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, such as the reference "KSP- 100® ”sold by Shin Etsu.

By way of illustration and without implied limitation of the hydrophilic gelling (s) / lipophilic gelling (g) (s) systems which are very particularly suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of the homopolymer (s) or copolymer of acid system. 2- acrylamido 2 sulfonic methylpropane / organopolysiloxane elastomer (s).

Thus, a composition according to the invention can advantageously comprise, as hydrophilic gelling (s) / gelling (s) lipophilic (s) systems, a homopolymer system of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid / elastomer (s). ) of organopolysiloxane.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention can comprise, as hydrophilic gelling system (s) / lipophilic gelling system (s), a copolymer system (s) of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid and of hydroxyethyl acrylate / organopolysiloxane elastomer powder.

[0433] LOADS WITH FLOAT EFFECT

As stated previously, the compositions according to the invention the composition according to the invention comprises at least boron nitride as filler with a blurring effect.

In a particular embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least two blurring charges different from each other, that is to say particles of boron nitride and at least one filler with additional blurring effect.

This type of fillers is particularly advantageous insofar as they allow blurring of imperfections. As indicated previously, the performance of these fillers is advantageously increased thanks to their use in a composition according to the invention.

[0437] Surprisingly, the compositions according to the invention make it possible to blur the relief imperfections (such as wrinkles, fine lines or visibility of the pores) and / or improve the smoothing of keratin materials, and / or improve the imperfections color of keratinous materials, in particular to homogenize the complexion of the skin and in particular to correct the redness of the eye area.

[0438] Boron nitride

[0439] The composition according to the invention comprises at least particles of boron nitride as filler with a blurring effect.

There are several polymorphic forms of boron nitride: boron nitrides of hexagonal form (denoted h-BN), boron nitrides of rhombohedral form (denoted rBN), boron nitrides of amorphous form (denoted a- BN), turbostratic boron nitrides (denoted t-BN), cubic boron nitrides (denoted c-BN) and hexagonal boron nitrides wurtzite type (denoted w-BN).

[0441]

Preferably, the boron nitride particles in accordance with the invention are chosen from particles of turbostratic boron nitride, that is to say those of which the crystallization planes may be slightly offset from the position of theoretical crystallization. Turbostratic boron nitride is a precursor to hexagonal boron nitride (h-BN). It has the same type of characteristics and physical properties as the exfoliated hexagonal boron nitride.

Preferably, the boron nitride particles have an oxygen content ranging from 0.05 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the particle .

Preferably, the boron nitride particles have an average particle size ranging from 0.1 to 25 μm and preferably from 0.3 to 15 μm.

The particle size is measured according to a method of distribution by laser diffraction with a device of the MICROTRAC type from Nikkiso or MASTERSIZER from Malvern, in particular by measuring the values D [10], D [50] and D [90] .

D [10] represents the maximum size of 10% by volume of the particles. D [50] represents the maximum size of 50% by volume of the particles. D [90] represents the maximum size of 90% by volume of the particles.

The particles of boron nitride can be modified by a surface treatment agent allowing them to impart amphiphilic properties and favor their dispersibility in the compositions comprising an oily phase and / or an aqueous phase.

Among the treatment agents, may be chosen from dimethylpolysiloxanes (Dilmethicone), linear siloxane polymers blocked at the end by Trimethoxysiloxy groups, polymethylhydrogenosiloxanes which are linear polysiloxanes called methicones, polyalkylethersiloxanes polyoxyalkylenes 8 as the polymer METHYL ETHER DIMETHICONE.

[0448] The boron nitride particles in accordance with the invention will be chosen more particularly from the following commercial products:

UHP-1010® by CARBORUNDUM

PUHP 1030L® by SAINT GOBAIN CERAMICS, BORON NITRIDE POWDER TRES BN PUHP 3002® by SAINT company

GOBAIN CERAMICS,

TRES BN PUHP 30005® by the company SAINT GOBAIN CERAMICS, LEAU3002® (name I NCI: BORON NITRIDE (and) PEG-8 METHYL ETHER DIMETHICONE by the company SAINT GOBAIN, RONAELAIR BORONEIGE SE-3 117774® by the company MERCK, RONAELAIR BORONEIGE SQ-6® from MERCK, SOETOUCH BORON NITRIDE CC6059® by the company MOMENTIVE, SOETOUCH BORON NITRIDE CC6097® by the company MOMENTIVE, SOETOUCH CCS102J® by the company MOMENTIVE.

The boron nitride particles in accordance with the invention will be chosen even more particularly from the following commercial product:

BORON NITRIDE POWDER TRES BN PUHP 3002® by SAINT GOBAIN CERAMICS.

A composition according to the invention comprises d from 0.2 to 15% by weight, in particular from 1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 3 to 7% by weight, and more particularly from 4 to 6% by weight. weight of boron nitride particles relative to the total weight of said composition.

In an advantageous embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 3% by weight, preferably at least 4% by weight, preferably at least 5.00% by weight of boron nitride particles relative to the total weight of the composition.

The contents of blurring charges, in particular the boron nitride particles used, will vary according to the nature of the cosmetic application for which the composition according to the invention is intended, for care or make-up.

The blurring effect is characterized by Haze and transparency measurements (TH transmission). The “Haze” corresponds to the percentage of light scattered relative to the total transmittance according to ASTM D 1003 (Standard Test Method for Haze and Luminous Transmittance of Transparent Plastics).

Films of 25 μm in composition are applied to polyethylene (PE) films of 50 μm. The film is then measured after one hour of drying at room temperature. Finally, the film is placed in the device and transparency and Haze measurements are taken.

The boron nitride particles are dispersed in water (5g of charge for 7.6g of water) then this mixture (5g of charge + 7.6g of water) is introduced at 12.6% in a white base described below. below:

[0456]

[Tables 1]

Phase INCI Name Formula on 100g A2 WATER 16.82 ADENOSINE 0.11 GLYCERIN 22.89 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.57 TETRACETIC DIAMINE ETHYLENE ACID, DISODIUM SALT, 2 H2O 0.23 AMMONIUM POLYDIMETHYLTAURAMIDE marketed under the name HOSTACERIN AMPS® by the company Clariant 0.69 BIOSACCHARIDE GUM-1 marketed under the name of Fucogel 1.5P® by the company Solabia 0.23 HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRY- LOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER 0.40

B Dimethicone (and) dimethiconol (sold under the name XIAMETER PMX-1503 FLUID by Dow Corning) 0.95 WHITE LIMNANTHE OIL (FANCOR MEADOWFOAM SEED OIL® by ELEMENTIS 2.48 N-LAUROYL ISOPROPYL SARCOSINATE (ELDEW SL-205® from Ajinomoto) 9.60 DIMETHICONE (KF-96L-2CS® by the company SHIN ETSU) 9.67 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.46 DIMETHICONE sold under the name Dow Corning Toray SH200C FLUID 5CS® by the company Dow Corning) 9.60 N-OCTANOYL-5 SALICYLIC ACID 0.34 MIXTURE OF POLY DIMETHYLSILOXANE CROSSLINKED BY HEXADIENE AND POLYDIMETHYLSILOXANE 2CST (L5) (DOW CORNING EL9240 SILICONE ELASTOMER BLEND® from Dow Corning) 3.43 VINYL DIMETHICONE / METHICONE SILSESQUIOXANE CROSSPOLYMER sold under the reference "KSP-100®" by the company Shin Etsu 20.60 VS MICROENCAPSULATED YELLOW IRON OXIDE (YELLOWCAP 1® from TAGRA BIOTECHNOLOGIES) 0.42 MICROENCAPSULATED RED IRON OXIDE (REDCAP1® from TAGRA BIOTECHNOLOGIES) 0.15 MICROENCAPSULATED BLACK IRON OXIDE (BLACKCAP 1® from TAGRA BIOTECHNOLOGIES) 0.02 FRAGRANCE 0.34

In particular, the blurring charge such as the boron nitride particles introduced at 5% into the white base is characterized in that the Haze is greater than

80% and the TH transmission is greater than 60%, and more preferably, the Haze is greater than 85% and the TH transmission is greater than 60% and according to ASTM D 1003 (Standard Test Method for Haze and Luminous Transmittance of Transparent Plastics).

Of course, as indicated below, the compositions according to the invention may in parallel also contain conventional additional fillers, it being understood that those skilled in the art will take care not to choose fillers whose nature or quantity in the composition would impact the blurring effect provided by blurring charges.

By “fillers”, within the meaning of the present invention, it is necessary to understand the colorless or white particles, solid of all forms, of mineral or organic nature, natural or synthetic, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the middle of the composition.

[0460] The blurring charges which can be used in the composition according to the invention are in particular characterized by a refractive index of between 1.33 and 2.

They will generally comprise or be made up of particles having an average size characterized by a D [50] less than or equal to 25 pm, in particular less than or equal to 20 pm, in particular less than or equal to 15 pm.

The average particle size and the size distributions are measured at 25 ° C. by static light scattering using a particle size analyzer like Mastersizer 2000 from Malvern. The light intensity scattered by the particles as a function of the angle at which they are lit is converted into a size distribution according to Mie theory. This theory, which is exact for isotropic particles, also makes it possible to determine for non-spherical particles an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is particularly described in the publication De Van de Hulst, HC, Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957. The [D50] corresponds to the average size that presents 50% in volume of the particle population.

These particles can be of any shape and in particular be spherical or non-spherical.

For example, the additional blurring charge is chosen from polytetrafluoroethylene powders, polyurethane powders, Carnauba microcires, synthetic wax microcires; powders of silicone resin; hemispherical hollow silicone particles, powders of acrylic polymers such as powders based on polymethylmethacrylate crosslinked polymer, vinylidene / acrylonitrile / methylene methacrylate microspheres; polyethylene powders; crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders;

crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin; starch powders; polyamide powders; silicates, in particular of alumina such as talc of medium size in number less than or equal to 3 microns; silica powders, in particular hydrophobic airgel particles, silica particles surface-treated with a mineral wax, amorphous silica microspheres, silica micro-beads; Silica / TiO2 composites,; barium sulfate particles;, Talc / TiO2 / Alumme / Silica composite powders; spherical cellulose beads, and mixtures thereof.

As additional blurring effect fillers which can be used according to the invention, there may be mentioned in particular:

- talc / TiO2 / alumina / silica composite powders, for example those sold under the name Coverleaf AR-80® by the company Catalyst & Chemicals

- Silica / TiO2 composites, such as those sold by the company Sunjin Chemical under the name Sunsil Tin 50®;

- acrylic polymer powders, in particular hollow spheres, solid or in core-shell structure based on cross-linked poly (methyl meth) acrylate (PMMA) polymer, such as PMMA JURIMER MBI® particles Nihon Junyoki with an average size of 8 μm, those sold under the name COVABEAD LH 85® by the company Sensient Cosmetic Technologies; PMMA hollow spheres such as those sold under the name GANZPEARL GMP0820® by the company Ganz Chemical; hollow spheres based on poly (meth) acrylate and mineral oil (INCI name: Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer and Mineral oil) such as those sold under the name SEPIMAT H10® by the company SEPPIC or those sold under the name MICROSPHERE M-310® from Matsumito Yuchi-Seiyaku; spherical particles in core shell structure of crosslinked poly (methyl) acrylate polymer coated on the surface with a Polymethylsilsesquioxane resin sold under the name SILCRUSTA MK03® by the company KOBO; expanded vinylidene / acrylonitrile / methylene methacrylate microspheres sold under the name Expancel®; crosslinked copolymers of at least one monomer chosen from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or one of their esters (INCI name: Acrylates / Ethylhexyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) especially in the form of hollow spheres, such as those marketed by Daito Kasei Kogyo under the name MAKIBEADS SP10® or those marketed by the company Serisui Plastics under the name TECHPOLYMER ACP-8C®;

- hydrophobic silica airgel particles (INCI name: Silica Silylate), such as those sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Dow

Coming VM-2270® Airgel Fine Particles;

- crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders, such as Dow Coming 9701 Cosmetic Powder® from the company Dow Corning (INCI name Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone crosspolymer ’); or those sold by the company Dow Corning under the name EP-9801® Hydrocosmetic Powder (INCI name "Dimethicone / Vinyl dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Butylene glycol";

- the crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane resin, as described for example in US Pat. No. 5,538,793. Such elastomer powders are sold under the names KSP-100®, KSP-101 ®, KSP-102®, KSP-103®, KSP-104® and KSP-105® by the company Shin Etsu and have the name INCI: "Vinyl Dimethicone / Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer or as name INCI name" VINYL DIMETHICONE / METHICONE SILSESQUIOXANE CROSSPOLYMER (and) PEG-7 GLYCERYL COCOATE (and) METHYLSILANOL TRI-PEG-8 GLYCERYL COCOATE (and) POLYQUATERNIUM-7 ”sold under the name MW-SRP-100® by Miyoshi Kasei or under the name TOSPEARL AQ MICROSP by the company MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MARTERIALS;

- starch powders, in particular aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, such as that sold by the company Akzo Nobel under the name Dry Flo Plus; - polyamide powders, such as Nylon® 12 powder, in particular that sold under the name Orgasol 2002 Extra D Nat Cos® by the company Atochem;

- spherical cellulose beads, such as those sold by the company Daito Kasei under the name Cellulobeads USF®;

- and their mixtures.

According to another preferred embodiment, the additional blurring charges used according to the invention are chosen from acrylic polymer powders, in particular hollow spheres, solid or in core-shell structure based crosslinked polymer of poly (meth) acrylate (PMMA), such as for example PMMA JURIMER MBI® particles from Nihon Junyoki with an average size of 8 pm, those sold under the name COVABEAD LH 85® by the company Sensient Cosmetic Technologies; PMMA hollow spheres such as those sold under the name GANZPEARL GMP0820® by the company Ganz Chemical; hollow spheres based on poly (meth) acrylate and mineral oil (INCI name: Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer and Paraffinum Liquid) such as those sold under the name SEPIMAT H10® by the company SEPPIC or those sold under the name MICROSPHERE M-310® from Matsumito Yuchi-Seiyaku; spherical particles in core shell structure of crosslinked poly (meth) acrylate polymer covered on the surface with a Polymethylsilsesquioxane resin sold under the name SILCRUSTA

MK03® by the company KOBO; expanded vinylidene / acrylonitrile / methylene methacrylate microspheres sold under the name Expancel®; crosslinked copolymers of at least one monomer chosen from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or one of their esters (INCI name: Acrylates / Ethylhexyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) especially in the form of hollow spheres, such as those sold by the Daito Kasei Kogyo under the name MAKIBEADS SP-10® or those marketed by the company Serisui Plastics under the name TECHPOLYMER ACP-8C®.

According to another particular embodiment, the blurring charges used according to the invention are chosen from

- hollow spheres, solid or with core-shell structure based on cross-linked polymer of methyl poly (meth) acrylate,

- crosslinked copolymers of at least one monomer chosen from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or one of their esters, and

- their mixtures.

According to another particular embodiment, the blurring charges used according to the invention are boron nitride particles and at least one additional blurring charge chosen from the crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with resin of resin. silicone, in particular of silsesquioxane resin, such as those sold under the names KSP-100®, KSP-101®, KSP-102®, KSP103®, KSP-104® and KSP-105® by the company Shin Etsu and have the name INCI: “Vinyl Dimethicone / Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer or as INCI name“ VINYL DIMETHICONE / METHICONE SILSESQUIOXANE CROSSPOLYMER (and) PEG-7 GLYCERYL COCOATE (and) METHYLSILANOL TRI-PEG-8 GLYCERYL COCOATE AND) MW-SRP-100® by the company Miyoshi Kasei or under the name TOSPEARL AQ MICROSPHERES® by the company MOMENTIVE PEREORMANCE MARTERIALS; and their mixtures.

[0469] A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.2 to 40% by weight, in particular from 1 to 30% by weight, in particular from 5 to 25% by weight, and preferably from 10 to 25% by weight. of total charges with a blurring effect, ie the boron nitride particles and the additional charge (s) with a blurring effect, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0470] ENCAPSULATED PIGMENTS

As stated previously, the compositions of the invention contain at least one encapsulated pigment.

[0472] The term "encapsulated dye" means a dye which is contained in microcapsules. In particular, the dye is a pigment, in particular chosen from organic and inorganic pigments, preferably inorganic pigments.

The microcapsules can consist of one or more concentric layers around a core. The dye (s) may be present in the core and / or the layers around the core. The microcapsules can contain, for example, a single kind of dye corresponding to a single color, or several kinds of dye.

[0474] An encapsulated dye has the advantage of being not very visible in the composition thanks to its encapsulation, while being released easily out of the microcapsule during application.

[0475] An encapsulated pigment is different from a coated pigment commonly used in makeup products. Indeed, while the coated pigments comprise a chemical coating aiming to improve the dispersion in the composition, the encapsulated pigments comprise one or more physical layer (s) forming a shell, the layers being relatively homogeneous and sealingly insulating the encapsulated pigment, so that each encapsulated pigment is well individualized in the composition, which is not the case with the coated pigments.

[0476] The dyes which are encapsulated according to the invention can be chosen from pigments, lacquers, and their mixtures.

[0477] In a preferred mode, it will be pigments.

The pigments can be chosen from mineral pigments and organic pigments, surface treated or untreated, and mixtures thereof.

The pigments can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic.

Among the inorganic pigments, titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet , ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, metallic powders such as aluminum powder, copper powder.

Among the organic pigments which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of carbon black, pigments of the D & C type, lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum or else diketo pyrrolopyrrole (DPP) described in documents EP-A-542,669, EP-A-787,730, EP-A-787,731 and WO-A96 / 08537.

[0482] Thus, the composition of the invention comprises at least encapsulated pigments chosen from organic pigments, inorganic pigments and their mixtures, preferably chosen from inorganic pigments. In particular, the inorganic pigment is chosen from metal oxides, such as an oxide of titanium, zirconium, cerium, zinc, iron, ferric blue, chromium and aluminum, in particular chosen from oxides of titanium, iron oxides, and mixtures thereof.

[0483] The pigments are preferably encapsulated in microcapsules which are both resistant to the other raw materials present in the composition and flexible enough to be able to break under shear during application so as to deliver the expected color.

[0484] Thus, the encapsulated pigments are "activated" during the application of the composition. In other words, after activation, the pigments give the composition applied to the keratinous material a coloration, distinct from that of the composition under packaging.

Before application, the composition may in particular present, in its packaging, any shade, for example white, gray, associated with the other ingredients of the composition, while once the pigments are activated on application, it advantageously reveals a coloration sought by the user.

The revelation of the color by the pigments can also be partly the result of variations in pH or temperature between the cosmetic composition in its packaging and once it is applied to the keratinous material. The contacting of the encapsulated pigments, during the application of the composition to the skin, with water or other fluids present on the surface of the skin can also promote the development of coloring.

The mixture obtained on application can constitute a colored make-up and / or care composition, for example a fluid foundation, a concealer or eye contour product, a lipstick, a liquid gloss, a blush, an eyeliner, a mascara, an eye shadow, a body or hair makeup product, or a skin coloring product.

[0488] In particular, it may be a composition for making up the skin, and in particular a foundation.

[0489] The shells of the microcapsules can comprise one or more layers, in particular concentric around the central core, and can be made from materials chosen, for example, from the following materials:

- hot-melt compounds whose melting temperature is between 30 and 70 ° C, preferably between 37 and 45 ° C, for example such as those described in application US 2006/0292193 A1; one can also cite by way of example, the microcapsules consisting of Jojoba esters, sold under the reference Elorasome by the company Eloratech, and described in US Pat. No. 6,432,428 and WO2006081351;

- polymers or copolymers such as polyacrylates, or methacrylates, and vinyl polymers. By way of example, mention may be made of the microcapsules based on an acrylate / ammonium methacrylate copolymer sold by the company Tagra Biotechnologies Ltd and described in publication WO 01/35933;

- Polysaccharides such as cellulose derivatives, such as for example hydroxy methylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose and carboxylmethylcellulose; starch; chitosan; algines; alginates; agars; agaroses; pectins; polypectates or carrageenans;

- polyamides;

- styrene / acrylate-based copolymers, such microcapsules being sold under the name Coloursphere by the company Créations Couleurs;

- and their mixtures

[0490] Thus, the composition of the invention comprises pigments encapsulated in microcapsules chosen from:

- microcapsules made up of Jojoba esters;

- microcapsules of polymers or copolymers such as polyacrylates or methacrylates, or vinyl polymers;

- microcapsules of polysaccharides such as cellulose derivatives, such as for example hydroxy methylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose and carboxylmethylcellulose; starch; chitosan; algines; alginates; agars; agaroses; pectins; polypectates or carrageenans;

- polyamide microcapsules;

- microcapsules of styrene / acrylate-based copolymers;

- and their mixtures.

According to a preferred embodiment, the micro-encapsulated pigment may in particular be contained in microcapsules based on acrylic polymers, polysaccharides, in particular cellulose derivatives, or mixtures thereof.

The size of the microcapsules, that is to say their number-average diameter, can range, for example, from 5 to 3000 μm, preferably from 10 to 1500 μm, more preferably from 20 to 700 μm.

The percentage of pigment relative to the total weight of the encapsulated pigment (weight of the encapsulated pigment = weight of the capsule + weight of the pigment) can vary to a large extent. The amount of pigment can range, for example, from 1 to 95% by weight, preferably from 10 to 90% and even more preferably from 15 to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the encapsulated pigment.

The composition according to the invention may contain a total amount of encapsulated pigment (s) (weight of the capsule + weight of the pigment (s)) ranging for example from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 2% by weight and even more preferably from 0.1 to 1%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

One can also use in the same composition several kinds of capsules containing encapsulated pigments and made of different encapsulation materials.

The capsules can, in addition to the pigments, contain additives such as for example plasticizing agents and / or opacifying agents so that the color of the encapsulated pigments is for example attenuated.

As pigments encapsulated by microcapsules of polymers or copolymers of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, mention may, for example, be made of microcapsules based on an ammonium salt copolymer of ethyl acrylate / methacrylic acid, sold by the company Tagra and described in document WOA-01/35933. In particular, mention may be made of the encapsulated pigments sold by TAGRA BIOTECHNOLOGIES under the name BLACKCAP1 ©, YELLOWCAP1 ©, REDCAP1 ©, with the name INCI: iron oxide (and) titanium dioxide (and) boron nitride (and) acrylates / ammonium methacrylate copolymer (and ) Triethyl citrate; we can also cite the encapsulated pigments marketed by TAGRA BIOTECHNOLOGIES under the name BLACKCAP3 ©, YELLOWCAP3 ©, REDCAP3 © with INCI name composed of several ingredients: titanium dioxide (and) iron oxide (and) isopropyl myristate (and) acrylates / ammonium methacrylate copolymer (and) Triethyl citrate.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least pigments encapsulated from microcapsules based on acrylate / ammonium methacrylate copolymer, and is more particularly chosen from titanium dioxide, yellow iron oxides , red iron oxides, black iron oxides, encapsulated in microcapsules based on acrylate / ammonium methacrylate copolymer, in particular those marketed by TAGRA Biotechnologies

According to a particularly preferred form, the composition according to the invention comprises

- at least particles of boron nitride; and

- at least one encapsulated pigment, preferably three encapsulated pigments different from each other, of microcapsule (s) based on acrylate / ammonium methacrylate copolymer, and is more particularly chosen (s) from titanium dioxide, iron oxides yellow, red iron oxides, black iron oxides, encapsulated in microcapsules based on acrylate / ammonium methacrylate copolymer, in particular those sold by the company TAGRA Biotechnologies.

[0500] DISPERSING AGENT

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention further comprises a dispersing agent, in particular capable of dispersing the solid particles in the composition.

Such a dispersing agent according to the invention is chosen from non-starch polysaccharides.

According to a particular variant embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01% to 0.5% by weight of dispersing agent, in particular a non-starchy polysaccharide (s), preferably from 0.01% to 0.1 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0504] I. B. Non-starchy polysaccharides

In general, the non-starch polysaccharides can be chosen from the polysaccharides produced by microorganisms; polysaccharides isolated from algae, polysaccharides from higher plants, such as homogeneous polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and its derivatives, heterogeneous polysaccharides such as gum arabic, galactomannans, glucomannans, and their derivatives; and their mixtures.

In particular, the polysaccharides can be chosen from glucans, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, celluloses and their derivatives, in particular methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and mannan, xylan, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans ,, chitin, chitosans, glucoronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans,, arabinogalactans,, glycosaminoglucans, gums arabic, gums Tragacanthe, Ghatti gums, Karaya gums, locust bean gums, galactomannans such as guar gums and their nonionic derivatives, in particular hydroxypropyl guar, and ionic gums, biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin, in particular gums of scleroglucan or of, the mucopolysaccharides, and in particular the chondroitins sulfate and their mixtures.

These polysaccharides can be chemically modified, in particular by urea or urethane groups, or by hydrolysis, oxidation, esterification, etherification, sulfation, phosphatation, amination or amidation groups. , of alkylation, or by several of these modifications.

Such a gelling agent can be used at a rate of 0.1% to 8% by weight in dry matter relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, in particular from 0.1% to 6% by weight.

More specifically, these polysaccharides suitable for the invention can be distinguished according to whether they come from microorganisms, algae or higher plants, and are detailed below.

[0510] Polysaccharides produced by microorganisms

[0511] Succinoglycan

[0512] Succinoglycan is an extracellular polymer produced by bacterial fermentation, of high molecular weight and consisting of repeated units of octasaccharides (repetition of 8 sugars). The succinoglycans are for example sold under the name Rheozan, by the company Rhodia.

[0513] Scleroglucan

Scleroglucan is a branched non-ionic homopolysaccharide, consisting of β-D glucan units. The molecules are made up of a main linear chain formed by D-glucose units linked by β (1,3) bonds and one in three of which is linked to a lateral Dglucose unit by a β (1,6) link.

[0515] A more complete description of scleroglucans and their preparation can be found in document US 3,301,848.

Scleroglucan is for example sold under the name AMIGUM by the company ALBAN MULLER, or under the name ACTIGUM ™ CS by the company Cargill.

[0517] Polysaccharides isolated from algae

[0518] Galactannes

The polysaccharide according to the invention can be a galactan in particular chosen from agar.

Galactans of the Agar type are galactose polysaccharides contained in the cell wall of some of these red algae species (rhodophyceae). They are formed from a group of polymers, the basic backbone of which is a β (1,3) Dgalactopyranose chain and a (l, 4) L 3-6 anhydrogalactose. The differences within the agar family are due to the presence or absence of methylated or carboxyethylated solvated groups. These hybrid structures are generally present in variable percentage, according to the algae species and the harvest season.

[0521] Agar-agar is a mixture of polysaccharides (agarose and agaropectin) of high molecular weight, between 40,000 and 300,000 g.mol-1. It is obtained by manufacturing seaweed extraction juices, usually by autoclaving, and by processing these juices which contain about 2% agar-agar, in order to extract the latter.

The agar is for example produced by the B&V Agar Producers group, under the name Gold Agar, Agarite and Grand Agar by the company Hispanagar, and under the names Agar-Agar, QSA (Quick Soluble Agar), and Puragar by the Setexam company.

[0523] Furcellarane

Furcellaran is obtained commercially from red algae Furcellaria fasztigiata. Furcellarane is for example produced by the company Est-Agar.

[0525] Polysaccharides of higher plants

This category of polysaccharides can be divided into homogeneous polysaccharides (a single species of ose) and heterogeneous compounds of several types of ose.

[0527] a) Homogeneous polysaccharides and their derivatives

The polysaccharide according to the invention can be chosen from celluloses and derivatives or fructosans.

[0529] Cellulose and derivatives

The polysaccharide according to the invention can also be a cellulose or one of its derivatives, in particular cellulose ethers or esters (ex: methylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxymethylpropylcellulose, cellulose acetate, cellulose nitrate, nitrocellulose).

Hydroxyethylcellulose suitable for the invention is for example sold under the name CELLOSIZE ™ QP 4400 H by the company AMERCHOL (DOW CHEMICAL).

The invention may also contain an associative cellulosic polymer. The term “cellulose compound” is understood to mean, according to the invention, any polysaccharide compound having in its structure linear sequences of anhydroglucopyranose residues (AGU) united by β (1,4) glycosidic bonds. The repeating motif is the cellobiose dimer. AGUs are in chair conformation and have 3 hydroxyl functions: 2 secondary alcohols (in position 2 and 3) and a primary alcohol (in position 6). The polymers thus formed associate with each other by intermolecular bonds of the hydrogen bond type, thus conferring a fibrillar structure on the cellulose (approximately 1,500 molecules per fiber).

The degree of polymerization differs enormously depending on the origin of the cellulose; its value can vary from a few hundred to a few tens of thousands.

The cellulose has the following chemical structure:

[Chem. 18]

The hydroxyl groups of the cellulose can partially or totally react with different chemical reagents to give cellulose derivatives having their own properties. The cellulose derivatives can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic. Among these derivatives, there are the cellulose ethers, the cellulose esters and the cellulose ether esters.

Among the nonionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of alkylcelluloses, such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses; hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses; hydroxyalkyl-alkylcellulose mixed celluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses and hydroxybutyl-methylcelluloses.

ΊΟ

Among the anionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of carboxyalkylcelluloses and their salts. By way of example, mention may be made of carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and their sodium salts.

Among the cationic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of cross-linked or non-crosslinked quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses.

The quaternizing agent can in particular be glycidyltrimethylammonium chloride or a fatty amine, such as laurylamine or stearylamine. As another cationic cellulose ether, mention may be made of hydroxyethylcellulosehydroxypropyltrimethylammonium.

The quaternized cellulose derivatives are, in particular:

- quaternized celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups containing at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof;

- quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups containing at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof.

The alkyl radicals carried by the above quaternized celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses preferably contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

The aryl radicals preferably denote the phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.

As examples of quaternized fatty chain C8-C30 alkyl hydroxyethylcelluloses, the products QUATRISOFT LM 200, QUATRISOFT LMX 529-18-A, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18B (C12 alkyl) and QUATRISOFT LM- X 529-8 (C1-C8 alkyl) sold by the company AMERCHOL and the products CRODACEL QM, CRODACEL QL (C1-C4 alkyl) and CRODACEL QS (C1-C alkyl) sold by the company CRODA.

Among the cellulose derivatives, there may also be mentioned:

- celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as, for example, hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as alkyl groups, in particular C8-C22, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups, such as NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS (C1 alkyls) sold by the company AQUALON, and

- celluloses modified with polyalkylene glycol alkyl phenol ether groups, such as the product AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) nonyl phenol ether) sold by the company AMERCHOL.

Among the cellulose esters, there are inorganic cellulose esters (nitrates, sulfates, or cellulose phosphates, etc.), organic cellulose esters (monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates or acetatetrimellitates of cellulose. ..) and mixed organic / inorganic esters of cellulose such as acetate butyratesulfates and cellulose acetate propionatesulfates. Among the cellulose ether esters, mention may be made of hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.

The cellulosic compounds of the invention can be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses and substituted celluloses.

Celluloses and derivatives are represented for example by the products sold under the names Avicel® (microcrystalline cellulose, MCC) by the company LMC Biopolymers, under the name Cekol (carboxymethylcellulose) by the company Noviant (CP-Kelco), under the name Akucell AP (sodium carboxymethylcellulose) by the company Akzo Nobel, under the name MethocelTM (cellulose ethers) and EthocelTM (ethylcellulose) by the company DOW, under the names Aqualon® (carboxymethylcellulose and sodium carboxymethylcellulose), Benecel® (methylcellulose) , BlanoseTM (carboxymethylcellulose), Culminai® (Methylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose), Klucel® (hydroxypropylcellulose), Polysurf® (cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose) and Natrosol® CS (hydroxyethylcellulose) by the company Hercules Aqualon.

B) Heterogeneous polysaccharides and their derivatives

The polysaccharides which can be used according to the invention can be gums such as, for example, cassia, karaya, konjac, tragacanth, tara, acacia or arabic gum.

[0550] Gum arabic

[0551] The arabic gums or acacia gums are exudates of sap from trees of the accacias family, in particular of the Accacia Senegal L. Willdenow or of other close species such as the Leguminosae family.

These so-called gums are in particular of natural origin.

Gum arabic is a strongly branched acidic polysaccharide which is in the form of mixtures of potassium, magnesium and calcium salts. The monomeric elements of the free acid (arabic acid) are D-galactose, Larabinose, L-rhamnose and D-glucuronic acid.

A gum arabic or acacia suitable for the invention is for example sold under the name SPRAYGUM SC10 by the company NEXIRA.

[0555] Galactomannans (guar, carob, fenugreek, tara gum) and derivatives (phosphate guar, hydroxypropyl guar ...)

Galactomannans are nonionic polysaccharides extracted from the albumen of legume seeds of which they constitute the reserve carbohydrate.

Galactomannans are macromolecules consisting of a main chain of D-mannopyranose units linked in β (1,4), carrying lateral branches consisting of a single D-galactopyranose unit linked in a (l, 6) to the main channel. The different galactomannans are distinguished on the one hand by the proportion of αD-galactopyranose units present in the polymer, and on the other hand by significant differences in terms of distribution of galactose units along the mannose chain. The mannose / galactose ratio (M / G) is around 2 for guar gum, 3 for tara gum and 4 for locust bean gum.

The galactomannans have the following chemical structure:

[Chem. 19]

j »» 3; Loews! beam "? I: Otssr ps "* 2: Tatârgw

[0560] Guar

Guar gum is characterized by a mannose: galactose ratio of the order of 2: 1. The galactose group is regularly distributed along the mannose chain.

The guar gums which can be used according to the invention can be nonionic, cationic or anionic. According to the invention, chemically modified or unmodified nonionic guar gums can be used.

The unmodified nonionic guar gums are, for example, the products sold under the name Vidogum GH®, Vidogum G® and Vidocrem® by the company Unipektin and under the name Jaguar by the company Rhodia, under the name Meypro® Guar by the company Danisco, under the name VISCOGUMTM by the company Cargill, and under the name Supercol® guar gum by the company Aqualon.

The hydrolyzed nonionic guar gums which can be used according to the invention are for example represented by the products sold under the name Meyprodor® by the company Danisco.

The modified non-ionic guar gums which can be used according to the invention are preferably modified by hydroxy-C1-C6 groups, among which, by way of example, hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups may be mentioned .

Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names Jaguar HP 60®, Jaguar HP 105® and Jaguar HP 120® (hydroxypropyl guar), by the company Rhodia, or under the name N-Hance® HP (hydroxypropyl guar) by the company AQUALON.

The cationic galactomannan gums preferably have a cationic charge density less than or equal to 1.5 meq / g and more particularly between 0.1 and 1 meq / g. The charge density can be determined according to the Kjeldahl method. It generally corresponds to a pH of the order of 3 to 9.

In general, within the meaning of the present invention, the term “cationic galactomannan gum” means any galactomannan gum containing cationic groups and / or groups which can be ionized into cationic groups.

The preferred cationic groups are chosen from those comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups.

The cationic galactomannan gums used generally have a weight-average molecular mass of between 500 and 5 × 10 6 approximately, and preferably between 103 and 3 × 10 6 approximately.

The cationic galactomannan gums which can be used according to the present invention are, for example, gums comprising cationic trialkyl (C1-C4) ammonium groups. Preferably, 2 to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of these gums carries trialkylammonium cationic groups.

Among these trialkylammonium groups, mention may very particularly be made of trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups.

Even more preferably, these groups represent from 5 to 20% by weight of the total weight of the modified galactomannan gum.

According to the invention, the cationic galactomannan gum is preferably a guar gum comprising hydroxypropyl trimethylammonium groups, that is to say a guar gum modified for example by 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride.

These galactomannan gums, in particular guar gums modified by cationic groups, are products already known in themselves and are for example described in US patents 3,589,578 and US 4,031,307. Such products are also sold in particular under the trade names of Jaguar EXCEL®, Jaguar C13 S®, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17® and Jaguar C162® (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Rhodia, under the name Amilan® Guar (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the Degussa, and under the name N-Hance® 3000 (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Aqualon.

The anionic guar gums which can be used according to the invention are polymers comprising groups derived from carboxylic, sulfonic, sulfenic, phosphoric, phosphonic or pyruvic acid. Preferably, the anionic group is a carboxylic acid group. The anionic group can also be in the form of an acid salt, in particular a sodium, calcium, lithium or potassium salt.

The anionic guar gums which can be used according to the invention are preferably derivatives of carboxymethylated guar (carboxymethyl guar or carboxymethyl hydroxypropyl guar).

Carob

Carob gum is extracted from carob seeds (Ceratonia siliqua).

The unmodified locust bean gum usable in this invention is sold for example under the name Viscogum ™ by the company Cargill, under the name Vidogum L by the company Unipektin, under the name Grinsted® LBG by the company Danisco.

The chemically modified locust bean gums which can be used in this invention can be represented for example by cationic locust beans sold under the name Catinal CLB® (Carob Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Toho.

[0582] TARA gum

The Tara gum which can be used in the context of this invention is sold for example under the name Vidogum SP® by the company Unipektin.

[0584] Glucomannans (konjac gum)

[0585] Glucomannan is a high molecular weight polysaccharide

[0586] (500,000 <Mglucomannan <2,000,000), composed of units of D-mannose and Dglucose with a branching every 50 or 60 units approximately. It is found in wood but it is also the main constituent of Konjac gum. Konjac (Amorphophallus konjac) is a plant in the Araceae family.

The products which can be used according to the invention are for example sold under the names Propol® and Rheolex® by the company Shimizu.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-starchy polysaccharide chosen from is chosen from celluloses and their derivatives, fructosans and their derivatives, gums such as arabic gums, cassia, karaya , konjac, tragacanth; tara.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-starchy polysaccharide chosen from hydroxyethylcellulose and gum arabic or acacia.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises hydroxyethylcellulose.

In an advantageous embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises particles of boron nitride and at least one dispersing agent, such as a non-starchy polysaccharide, in a weight ratio [dispersing agent preferably the polysaccharide (s) ( s) non-starchy] / [boron nitride particles] ranging from 0.001 to 0.5, preferably ranging from 0.005 to 0.2.

When the dispersing agent of the composition according to the invention is hydroxyethylcellulose the weight ratio [hydroxyethylcellulose] / [particles of boron nitride] is from 0.01 to 0.025, preferably is 0.014.

When the dispersing agent of the composition according to the invention is gum arabic the weight ratio [gum arabic] / [particles of boron nitride] / is from 0.05 to 0.15, preferably is 0.09.

[0594] PROPERTIES OF COVERAGE / OPACITY

The compositions of the invention have in particular a coverage characterized by a Contrast Ratio (CR) which can range from 16 to 80%, and preferably ranging from 45 to 79%.

Coverage is measured according to the protocol as described in the example section below.

[0597] AQUEOUS PHASE

The aqueous phase comprises at least water and can also comprise organic solvents miscible with water (at ambient temperature: ie 25 ° C.) such as, for example, monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol; polyols having in particular from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol , hexylene glycol, caprylylglycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (having in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as alkyl (Cl-C4) mono, di- or tripropylene glycol ether, alkyl (Cl-C4) ethers of mono, di- or triethylene glycol , and mixtures thereof.

A water suitable for the invention can be a floral water such as blueberry water and / or a mineral water such as VITTEL® water, LUCAS® water or LA ROCHE water POSAY® and / or thermal water.

The overall aqueous phase, including all the hydrophilic substances of the composition capable of being dissolved in this same phase, is preferably present in the composition in a content, preferably ranging from 5 to 98% by weight, more preferably, from 5 to 95% by weight, better from 25 to 75% by weight, and more particularly from 25 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0601] OILY PHASE

The composition of the invention comprises a liquid fatty phase. Said phase is liquid (in the absence of structuring agent) at room temperature (20-25 ° C). Preferably, the water-immiscible organic liquid phase according to the invention generally comprises at least one volatile oil and / or a non-volatile oil.

By “oil” is meant a fatty substance which is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760mm of Hg, ie 105 Pa). The oil can be volatile or non-volatile.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “volatile oil” means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the keratin fiber in less than an hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg) ).

[0605] The term “non-volatile oil” means an oil which remains on the skin or the keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 10-3 mm Hg (0, 13 Pa).

The oil can be chosen from all oils, preferably physiologically acceptable, in particular mineral, animal, vegetable, synthetic oils; in particular volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon and / or silicone and / or fluorinated oils and their mixtures.

More specifically, the term “hydrocarbon-based oil” means an oil comprising mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more functions chosen from the hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions. Generally, the oil has a viscosity of 0.5 to 100,000 mPa.s, preferably from 50 to 50,000 mPa.s and more preferably from 100 to 300,000 mPa.s.

As an example of a volatile oil which can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned:

- volatile hydrocarbon oils chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4 , 6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or Permyls, branched esters of C8-C16, iso-hexyl neopentanoate, and their mixtures . Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Either by the company SHELL, can also be used; volatile linear alkanes such as those described in the patent application of the company Cognis DE10 2008 012 457.

- volatile silicones, such as for example volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity £ 8 centistokes (8 10-6 m2 / s), and having in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, mention may especially be made of caprylyl methicone, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disox trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane - and mixtures thereof.

As an example of a non-volatile oil which can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned:

- hydrocarbon oils of animal origin such as perhydrosqualene;

- hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids with 4 to 24 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel;

- linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as paraffin oils and their derivatives, petrolatum, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, squalane;

- synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms such as dicapylyl ether

- synthetic esters, in particular of fatty acids, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, alcohol from C 12 to C 15 benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, octyl 2-dodecyl stearate, octyl 2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate;

- fatty alcohols liquid at room temperature with branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl decanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, oleic alcohol;

- higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid;

- carbonates such as dicapryl carbonate;

- acetates;

- citrates;

- fluorinated oils optionally partially hydrocarbon-based and / or silicone-based, such as fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers, fluorinated silicones as described in document EP-A-847 752;

- non-volatile silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); phenylated silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenyl ethyl trimethyl-siloxysilicates, and - mixtures thereof.

[0610] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition also comprises at least one silicone gum chosen from polyorganosiloxanes with a molecular weight greater than or equal to 400,000 g / mol.

The molecular weights by weight are measured conventionally in the field, for example using gel permeation chromatography coupled with the diffusion of static light (GPC-MALLS).

[0612] Preferably, the viscosity of the silicone gum is greater than 800,000 cSt, more particularly less than or equal to 10,000,000 cSt (at 25 ° C, measured by standard ASTM D-445). More particularly between 1,000,000 and 5,000,000 cSt (at 25 ° C, measured by standard ASTM D-445).

By silicone gum is meant more particularly polyorganosiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes, non-crosslinked linear, optionally hydroxylated, phenylated, or vinyl, or combinations thereof. Note that the silicone gums used according to the invention are not silicone elastomers.

[0614] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the silicone gum corresponds to the following formula:

[Chem. 20]

In which:

R7, R8, RI 1 and R12 are identical or different, and each is chosen from alkyl radicals comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

R9 and RIO are the same or different, and each is chosen from an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, an aryl radical, a hydroxyl radical, a vinyl radical, preferably an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms carbon, to a hydroxyl radical;

X is chosen from an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical, a vinyl radical, preferably to an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical;

n and p are chosen so as to give the silicone gum a molecular mass greater than or equal to 400,000 g / mol.

In general, n and p can each take values ranging from 0 to 5000, more particularly from 0 to 3000, knowing that n and p are not harmed simultaneously.

[0617] According to a particular embodiment, the silicone gum is a polydimethylsiloxane gum optionally comprising at least one aryl radical, a dimethiconol gum, or their mixtures, and preferably a dimethiconol gum.

The silicone gum (s) can be used alone or as a mixture, in particular with a solvent chosen from volatile silicones, polydhnethylsiloxane oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane oils, isoparaffins, in particular C8-C16, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane, tetradecane or their mixtures.

If the silicone gums are sold in pre-solubilized form, the proportion of gum usually represents from 5 to 20% by weight, and preferably from 10 to 15% by weight, in a low weight linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxane. molecular, volatile or non-volatile.

Among the silicone gums which can be used, mention may be made of those for which:

R7 to R12 represent a methyl group, the substituent X represents a hydroxyl group, the coefficients n and p being such that the molecular mass is greater than or equal to 400,000 g / mol:

[0622] product sold or manufactured under the name XIAMETER® PMX-1401 FLUID by the company Dow Corning, in the form of a 13% solution in cyclopentasiloxane,

[0623] product sold or manufactured under the name XIAMETER PMX-1503 FLUID by the company Dow Corning, in the form of a 12% solution in polydimethylsiloxane,

[0624] product sold or manufactured under the name XIAMETER® PMX-1403 FLUID by the company Dow Corning, in the form of a 13% solution in polydimethylsiloxane,

[0625] R7, R8, RI 1, R12 and X represent a methyl group and the substituents R9 and

RIO represent an aryl group, the coefficients n and p being such that the molecular mass is greater than or equal to 400,000 g / mol:

[0626] product sold or manufactured under the name Mirasil® C-DPDM by the company Bluestar.

[0627] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the silicone gum is a polydimethylsiloxane gum optionally comprising at least one aryl radical, a dimethiconol gum, or their mixtures, and preferably a dime80 thiconol gum.

In the compositions according to the invention, the silicone gum can be present in an active material content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 8% by weight, in particular from 0 , 3 to 6% by weight, and more, relative to the total weight of the composition

[0629] According to a particular form of the invention, the overall oily phase, including all the lipophilic substances of the composition capable of being dissolved in this same phase, represents from 5 to 95% by weight, and preferably from 10 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0630] ADDITIVES

The compositions according to the invention may also contain additional cosmetic ingredients conventionally used for the formulation of particular galenics generally adjusted with regard to the keratin material targeted. This or these additional cosmetic ingredients may in particular be chosen from waxes, pasty fatty substances, film-forming polymers, nonionic, anionic or cationic surfactants, hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, dispersing agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preservatives. , antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, fillers other than the blurry fillers defined above, sunscreens, bactericides, odor absorbers, additional coloring matters other than the encapsulated pigments defined above (eg pigments , nacres, water-soluble or liposoluble dyes), salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0632] Thus, a cosmetic composition of the invention can also comprise at least one additional cosmetic ingredient chosen from waxes, pasty fatty substances, film-forming polymers, nonionic, anionic or cationic surfactants, hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, dispersing agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, fillers other than boron nitride particles or the additional fillers with blurring effect defined above, sun filters, bactericides, odor absorbers, additional coloring matters other than the encapsulated pigments defined above (eg pigments, nacres, water-soluble or liposoluble dyes), salts, and their mixtures.

The amounts of the additional cosmetic ingredients are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.01 to 10% of the total weight of the composition.

Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional ingredients and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or not substantially altered by the addition envisaged.

[0635] Active

[0636] For a particular care application, a composition according to the invention can comprise at least one moisturizing agent (also called humectant).

[0637] Preferably, the hydrating agent is glycerin.

The hydrating agent (s) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 10% by weight, or even from 1 to 6% by weight, relative the total weight of said composition.

As other active agents which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may, for example, be made of vitamins, sunscreens, depigmenting agents, and their mixtures.

[0640] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one active ingredient.

It falls within the routine operations of a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and the quantity of additives present in the compositions in accordance with the invention, so that the desired cosmetic properties of these n are not affected.

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention can advantageously be in the form of a composition for caring for keratin materials such as the skin of the body or of the face, in particular of the face and / or around the eyes, to homogenize the relief and / or color imperfections with a natural result, in particular to camouflage and / or smooth the relief imperfections of the skin, such as pores, wrinkles and / or fine lines, and / or homogenize the complexion of the skin of the face and / or the neck, in particular correct the spots or diffuse rednesses of the skin and / or correct the rednesses around the eye, or dark circles.

According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention can advantageously be in the form of a base makeup composition.

[0644] According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention can advantageously be in the form of a foundation.

According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention can advantageously be in the form of a make-up and / or nail care product to camouflage and / or smooth out the imperfections in relief and in color.

[0646] According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention can advantageously be in the form of a makeup and / or care product for the eye area, dark circles, eyelids such as eyeshadow, a concealer.

[0647] According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a makeup and / or lip care composition to camouflage and / or smooth out the imperfections in relief and in color.

[0648] Such compositions are in particular prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

The expressions "understood" ranging from ... to ... "must be understood including limits, unless specified to the contrary.

[0650] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples and figures presented below. Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities indicated are expressed in percentage by mass.

Examples

[0651] Rheological measurements

The viscosity as well as the behavior of a composition according to the invention was studied using a rheometer. MARS III at 25 ° C (March; Modular Advanced Rheometer System).

Flow measurement protocol: measurement of the viscosity as a function of the evolution of the stress.

[0654] In flow, the measurements are carried out under stress imposed on the equilibrium. The product is subjected to increasing stresses and the variation of the corresponding speed gradient is measured. We deduce the flow curve, which represents the change in viscosity as a function of the shear gradient. The measurements carried out make it possible to access very low shears and to estimate the flow threshold, that is to say the constraint to be applied so that the product begins to flow.

[0655] The sample is brought to temperature at 25 ° C for 120s by Peltier effect. A stress flow is carried out in steps of 0.1 up to a maximum of 1000 Pa, and there are about twenty measurement points distributed logarithmically. These measurements are therefore carried out over a wide range of deformation and describe the behavior and the texture of the polymers at rest (low shear rate) and during setting and spreading (high shear rates around 500 to 1000 s- 1).

[0656] Flow curve (mobile CP35 / 2) of Composition 2 according to the invention: [0657] [Tables2]

g point [1 / s] viscosity [Pa.s] 1 641.5 10 80.89 1000 0.05902

The results of the flow curve show that a decrease in viscosity, there is a drastic increase in the viscosity of the composition between ls-1 and 10 s-1, and a very strong decrease between 10 s-1 and 1000s-1.

Composition 2 according to the invention has a very low viscosity at 1000 s-1, and is therefore not very viscous during application.

The compositions according to the invention having shear-thinning properties exhibit good play-time during application and good slip.

Example 1: compositions in the form of gel-gel

[0662] Preparatory mode

The ingredients of the aqueous phase A were weighed and then said phase was stirred with rayneri until homogenization. The oily phase B elements were weighed and stirred with rayneri. The two phases were then mixed with rayneri stirring. The ingredients of phase C were weighed and added to the mixture with rayneri stirring. In a separate beaker, the ingredients of phase D were mixed until a good dispersion was obtained. This dispersion was then added to the main beaker and stirred with rayneri until a homogeneous formula was obtained. For more details concerning the interconnection assembly 100 itself, reference may be made to the aforementioned documents.

[0664]

[Tables3]

INGREDIENTS Phas e Composit ion 3 out of the invention compositi on 1 in accordance with the invention Compositi on 2 in accordance with the invention TETRACETIC DIAMINE ETHYLENE ACID, DISODIUM SALT, 2 H2O AT 0.2 0.2 0.2 N-OCTANOYL-5 SALICYLIC ACID B 0.3 0.3 0.3 ADENOSINE AT 0.1 0.1 0.1 BORON NITRIDE marketed under the name BORON NITRIDE POWDER TRES BN PU HP 3002® by SAINT GOB AIN CERAMICS D 5 5 5 MICROENCAPSULATED YELLOW IRON OXIDE (YELLOWCAP 1® from TAGRA BIOTECHNOLOGIES) VS 0.364 0.364 0.364 MICROENCAPSULATED RED IRON OXIDE (REDCAP 1® from TAGRA BIOTECHNOLOGIES) VS 0.127 0.127 0.127 MICROENCAPSULATED BLACK IRON OXIDE (BLACKCAP1® from TAGRA BIOTECHNOLOGIES) VS 0.018 0.018 0.018 PHENOXYETHANOL AT 0.5 0.5 0.5 WHITE LIMNANTHE OIL (FANCOR MEADOWFOAM SEED OIL® by ELEMENTIS B 2.17 2.17 2.17 N-LAUROYL SARCOSINATE B 8.39 8.39 8.39

ISOPROPYLE (ELDEW SL-205® from Ajinomoto) FRAGRANCE VS 0.3 0.3 0.3 WATER D 7.611 7.161 7.536 Hydroxy ethylcellulose sold under the name CELLOSIZE® QP 4400 H by the company AMERCHOL (DOW CHEMICAL) D 0.075 ACACIA SENEGAL GUM marketed under the name SPRAYGUM SCIO by the company NEXIRA D 0.45 AMMONIUM POLYDIMETHYLTAURAMIDE marketed under the name HOSTACERIN AMPS® by the company Clariant AT 0.6 0.6 0.6 Hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer commersialized under the name SEPINOV EMT10® by the company SEPPIC AT 0.35 0.35 0.35 BIOSACCHARIDE GUM-1 marketed under the name of Fucogel 1.5P® by the company Solabia AT 0.2 0.2 0.2 DIMETHICONE sold under the name Dow Corning Toray SH200C FLUID 5CS® by the company Dow Corning) B 8.39 8.39 8.39 Dimethicone (and) dimethiconol (sold under the name XIAMETER PMX-1503 FLUID by Dow Corning) B 0.83 0.83 0.83 VINYL DIMETHICONE / METHICONE SILSESQUIOXANE CROSSPOLYMER sold under the reference "KSP-100®" by the company Shin Etsu B 18 18 18 DIMETHICONE (KF-96L-2CS® by the company SHIN ETSU) B 8.45 8.45 8.45

MIXTURE OF POLY DIMETHYLSILOXANE CROSSLINKED BY HEXADIENE AND POLYDIMETHYLSILOXANE 2CST (L5) (DOW CORNING EL-9240 SILICONE ELASTOMER BLEND® from Dow Corning) B 3 3 3 WATER AT 14.70 14.70 14.70 GLYCERIN AT 20 20 20 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL (HYDROLITE CGL® from SYMRISE) B 0.4 0.4 0.4

The cosmetic properties of compositions 1 and 2 according to the invention and composition 3 outside the invention were evaluated.

[0666] Example 2: Soft-focus measurement: Haze principle

The determination of the soft-focus is made by measuring the Haze and the transparency, that is to say the perception of light at wide angles.

[0668] Haze is an in vitro measure used to simulate the blurring effect of a formula after application. The Hazegard quantifies the visual perception of a cosmetic film after drying by objective measurements. It measures the intensity of the light passing through a sample. It separately measures direct transmittance (ie in the same direction as the incident ray) or hemispherical transmittance (in all directions in space, which is equivalent to total transmittance): Transmittance (T in%): Transparency by transmission, ie the amount of light that passes through the sample. If T = 100%, the sample is as transparent as air; if T = 0% the sample is completely opaque;

Haze (H or SE in%): H = (T diffused / Ttotal) x 100, corresponding to the measurement of the blurring of a sample. If H = 100% all the light beams are deflected while if H = 0% no transmitted light beam is deflected.

The measurements are carried out using a Hazegard (Hazegard plus C ©, BYK Gardner) on a 25 μm thick film, deposited on a PET film (PA-2871 ©, BYK10 Gardner). Three measurements are made at different locations on the film after 1 hour of drying at room temperature. The values are then averaged.

[0669] The results of soft focus are presented in the table below: [0670]

[Tables4]

Composition tested HAZE% TRANSPARENCY% Average Standard deviation Average Standard deviation Composition 3 outside the invention 98.6 0.2 78.1 0.3 Composition 1 according to the invention 99.3 0.4 69.6 2.9 Composition 2 according to the invention 101 0 62.1 2.4

[0671] Surprisingly, the compositions 1 and 2 according to the invention, comprising comprising hydroxyethylcellulose or gum arabic, have better blurring performance (soft-focus) than compositions 3 and 4 outside the invention comprising another dispersing agent or without.

In addition, the compositions 1 and 2 in accordance with the invention exhibit very good performance in masking imperfections in keratin materials, in particular in the skin, as well as good performance in terms of slipperiness and tights. They are easy to apply, are not very sticky and slippery. They have good playtime and leave a soft finish on the skin.

Example 3: Evaluation of the coverage / opacity properties

The coverage is measured according to the following protocol:

[0675] Coverage measurement

[0676] The application can be carried out with an automatic spreader.

The coverage (Contrast Ratio) of the first and second compositions is evaluated by preparing a 25 μm film on a contrast card (type BYK Chart PA-2814) having a white part and a black part using an automatic spreader.

Leave to dry for 1 hour at room temperature: (20-25 ° C)

Color measurements were made using a spectrocolorimeter, a Minolta CM600d. The colorimeter provides the digital data representing the absolute value and the color difference between a reference sample and a sample to be checked. In our study, we use the absolute values of each film sample on the white background for the color, including the black background for the calculation of the coverage.

The operating conditions are as follows:

CIE 1964 standard observer 10 °

Illuminant CIE type D65

Measurement geometry: Diffuse / 8 ° measurement geometry and observation D65 / 10 ⁰ , specular component mode included (SCI), average aperture (10mm) on black and white backgrounds.

The device is equipped with an optical device producing a diffuse light, placed in a spherical cavity coated with a white layer which induces a multiple reflection of the light. An anti-gloss trap can eliminate the effects of gloss from the surface of the sample.

[0679] The spectra are expressed in colorimetric coordinates in the CIELab76 space within the meaning of the International Commission on Lighting according to recommendation 15: 2004.

The contrast ratio is calculated by taking the mathematical average of the values of Y on a black background, divided by the average Y on a white background, multiplied by 100.

[0681] [Math.l] <- Average {Ynoir)

Contrast Ratio - Average (Yblanc) ¹⁰⁰

The coverage results are presented in the table below:

[0683] [Tables5]

Composition tested Avg CR% AND CR% Composition 3 outside the invention 43.5 0.6 Composition 1 according to the invention 49.6 3.6 Composition 2 according to the invention 61.9 1.7

[0684] Surprisingly, the compositions 1 and 2 in accordance with the invention, comprising hydroxyethylcellulose or gum arabic, exhibit good coverage and in particular better coverage performance than the composition 3 outside the invention containing no agent dispersant.

Example 4: Evaluation of the Effect on the Color of the Skin

[0686] Protocol

Using a KONICA MINOLTA CR-400 chromameter (CIE 1964 10 ° standard observer, Illuminant CIE type D65), a colorimetric measurement is carried out on a color map representative of bare skin, by measuring the Red, Yellow and luminance indices, respectively a *, b *, L *.

The formula is then spread in a layer 50 μm thick on a PET film (PA-2871 ©, BYK10 Gardner). Leave to dry for 1 hour at room temperature. We place the film with the formula on top of the color card representing bare skin. Using a KONICA MINOLTA CR-400 chromameter (CIE 1964 10 ° standard observer, CIE Illuminant type D65), a colorimetric measurement is made, by measuring the Red, Yellow and luminance indices, respectively a *, b *, L *.

[0689] [Tables6]

Bare skin card Composition 3 outside the invention Composition 1 according to the invention Composition 2 according to the invention Average at 10.66 3.05 2.39 2.10 Standard deviation 0.15 0.27 0.19 0.22

[0690] Surprisingly, the compositions 1 and 2 in accordance with the invention allow a good reduction in the parameter a, greater than that obtained with the composition 3 outside the invention not comprising a dispersing agent

Compositions 1 and 2 surprisingly exhibit good performance in correcting color imperfections on the skin (brown spots, redness, etc.), in particular on the skin of the face and in particular for reducing redness of the skin. .

Claims (1)

Claims [Claim 1] Composition, in particular comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, comprising: a) at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; and b) at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent; said phases forming therein a macroscopically homogeneous mixture; said composition further comprising: c) particles of boron nitride, d) at least one encapsulated pigment, and e) at least one non-starchy polysaccharide. [Claim 2] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises from 0.2 to 15% by weight, in particular from 1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 3 to 7% by weight, and more particularly from 4 to 6% by weight of particles of boron nitride relative to the total weight of said composition. [Claim 3] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising an additional blurring effect, characterized in that the Haze and the TH transmission are respectively greater than or equal to 80 and 60, and / or in that the refractive index between 1.33 and 2. [Claim 4] Composition according to Claim 3, in which the additional filler with a blurring effect is chosen from polytetrafluoroethylene powders, polyurethane powders, Carnauba microcires, synthetic wax microcires; powders of silicone resin; hemispherical hollow silicone particles, powders of acrylic polymers such as powders based on polymethylmethacrylate crosslinked polymer, vinylidene / acrylonitrile / methylene methacrylate microspheres; polyethylene powders, in particular comprising at least one ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer; crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders; crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin; starch powders; polyamide powders; silicates, in particular of alumina such as talc of medium size in number less than or equal to 3 microns; silica powders, especially hydrophobic airgel particles, treated silica particles surface by mineral wax, amorphous silica microspheres, silica micro-beads; Silica / TiO ₂ composites,; barium sulfate particles, composite powders of Talc / TiO ₂ / Alumina / Silica; spherical cellulose beads, and mixtures thereof. [Claim 5] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-starchy polysaccharide is chosen from celluloses and their derivatives, fructans and their derivatives, gums such as arabic gums, cassia, karaya, konjac, tragacanth; tara, preferably is chosen from hydroxyethylcellulose or arabic gum. [Claim 6] Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the encapsulated pigment is chosen from organic pigments, inorganic pigments and their mixtures, preferably chosen from inorganic pigments. [Claim 7] Composition according to Claim 6, in which the inorganic pigment is chosen from metal oxides, such as a titanium, zirconium, cerium, zinc, iron, ferric blue, chromium and aluminum oxide, in particular particular chosen from titanium oxides, iron oxides, and mixtures thereof. [Claim 8] . Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the encapsulated pigment is in microcapsules chosen from: . microcapsules made of Jojoba esters; . microcapsules of polymers or copolymers such as polyacrylates or methacrylates, or vinyl polymers; . microcapsules of polysaccharides such as cellulose derivatives, such as, for example, hydroxy methylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose and carboxylmethylcellulose; starch; chitosan; algines; alginates; agars; agaroses; pectins; polypectates or carrageenans; . polyamide microcapsules; . microcapsules of styrene / acrylate copolymers; . and their mixtures [Claim 9] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which at least one encapsulated pigment, preferably three encapsulated pigments, is characterized in that the pigment is chosen from titanium dioxide, yellow iron oxides, red iron oxides , black iron oxides, encapsulated in microcapsules based on acrylate / ammonium methacrylate copolymer. [Claim 10] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the encapsulated pigment (s) is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 2% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.1 to 1%, relative to the total weight of the composition. [Claim 11] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the non-starchy polysaccharide (s) is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 0.5% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. [Claim 12] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the particles of boron nitride and the non-starchy polysaccharide (s) are present in a weight ratio [the non-starchy polysaccharide (s) ( s)] / [boron nitride particles] from 0.001 to 0.5, preferably from 0.005 to 0.2. [Claim 13] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a cosmetic composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin. [Claim 14] Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from synthetic polymeric gelling agents, natural or naturally occurring polymeric gelling agents, mixed silicates and fumed silicas, and their mixtures. [Claim 15] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising as synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent at least one gelling agent chosen from homopolymers or copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, crosslinked and / or neutralized, in particular chosen from a homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid or a copolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate. [Claim 16] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from particulate gelling agents, organopolysiloxane elastomers, semi-crystalline polymers, dextrin esters, hydrogen-bonded polymers, hydrocarbon block copolymers also known as copolymers blocks and their mixtures, in particular an organopolysiloxane elastomer, preferably chosen from Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3, and in particular Di- methicone Crosspolymer and Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer. [Claim 17] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises at least one silicone gum chosen from polyorganosiloxanes with a molecular weight of at least 400,000 g / mol. [Claim 18] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, containing the aqueous and oily phases in an aqueous phase / oily phase weight ratio 95/5 to 5/95, preferably from 30/70 to 80/20. [Claim 19] Process for the preparation of a cosmetic composition for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, comprising at least one mixing step: . an aqueous phase gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent as defined in the preceding claims; and . at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent as defined in the preceding claims; under conditions conducive to obtaining a macroscopically homogeneous mixture; said composition further comprising at least particles of boron nitride, at least one encapsulated pigment, and at least one non-starchy polysaccharide as defined in the preceding claims. [Claim 20] Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, characterized in that it comprises the application to keratin materials of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 18. FRENCH REPUBLIC