FR2921834A1 - ANTI-OXIDANT AGENT OF PLANT EXTRACTS, AND COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING SAID AGENT - Google Patents

Abstract

Antioxidant agent based on plant extracts characterized in that it contains a mixture of at least one oak extract and at least one green anise extract and cosmetic composition comprising said agent.

Description

1 ANTI-OXIDANT AGENT BASED ON PLANT EXTRACTS, AND COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING SAID AGENT

The subject of the invention is an antioxidant agent based on plant extracts. It also relates to cosmetic compositions comprising said agent.

More generally, the agent which is the subject of the invention is intended to fight against the deterioration of the cells, in particular those of the skin, caused by external aggression, and in particular by the UVAs responsible for the formation of radicals. free. Indeed, the free radicals have an oxidizing effect of the cell membrane in particular, resulting in fact, the aging of the cells.

The objective of the invention is therefore to protect the epidermal and dermal cells from these attacks by reducing the harmfulness of the oxidizing species, by protecting and restoring the altered cellular membranes, by protecting the collagen matrix and by preventing the action of the proteases on the essential proteins of the cutaneous tissue.

The Applicant has found that, quite surprisingly, this objective was achieved by associating oak extracts belonging to the family Fagaceae and green anise belonging to the Apiaceae family.

In other words, the invention firstly relates to an antioxidant or antiradical agent based on plant extracts which is characterized in that it contains a mixture of at least one extract of oak and d at least green anise extract.

According to a first characteristic, the oak extracts are at least one, advantageously two, and preferably three, chosen from the group comprising oak (Quercus robur), holm oak (Quercus ilex) and oak. truffle oak (Quercus pubescens).

The Applicant has found that the antioxidant was particularly effective when oak extracts were obtained from the bark. In an advantageous embodiment, the antioxidant agent of the invention thus contains three oak bark extracts, respectively Quercus robur, Quercus ilex, Quercus pubescens and a green anise extract.

In practice, the extracts are obtained separately before being mixed.

The extraction from the oak or anise bark is carried out in three stages, respectively: - maceration or decoction or percolation, - filtration - distillation.

Regarding the first step, decoction, maceration or percolation can be carried out in alcoholic solution, in particular in ethanol, for a period of 3 to 72 hours. Depending on the nature of the process used, the temperature may vary. It is about 40 ° C when it comes to maceration, the decoction and percolation can be carried out at higher temperatures of the order of 75 ° C. In this second hypothesis, the extraction must not last more than 48 hours, because of the risk of oxidizing and destroying all the assets of the plant.

In a second step, the extracts are filtered on a mesh of between 1 and 100 m, so as to separate from the extract itself, the remaining parts of bark.

The distillation step, corresponding to the third step, aims to evaporate the alcohol used in the first step and in this case, ethanol to allow the concentrate to concentrate dry matter. This distillation is advantageously carried out under partial vacuum, at a temperature between 40 and 50 ° C.

At the end of the extraction, the extracts of oak bark and anise obtained contain from 1 to 10% by weight of dry matter, advantageously of the order of 6%.

For the purpose of their association with the other extracts, the concentrated extracts are mixed with oily and / or aqueous vehicles such as, for example, vegetable oil or glycerin in a proportion by weight (extract / vehicle) of between 60/40 and 40/60, advantageously 50/50. In an advantageous embodiment, to further optimize the extraction, the oak bark is collected fresh and dried.

Before the first step of maceration, percolation or decoction, the bark is crushed or reduced in size to give fragments of the order of 1 to 2 cm in length.

Within the antioxidant agent, the extracts mixed with their vehicle may represent variable proportions, typically between 5 and 50%, advantageously of the order of 10 to 30% by weight. Thus, the subject of the invention is also an antioxidant agent comprising: 20 to 40% of a hydroglycerinated extract of Quercus robur, 20 to 40% of a glycerine extract of Quercus pubescens, 5 to 20% of a hydroglycerine extract of Quercus ilex, 15 - 20 to 40% of a hydroglycerinated extract of green anise.

According to another aspect, the subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising the antioxidant agent as described above based on at least one oak extract and a green anise extract. In practice, this antioxidant agent represents between 3 and 20% by weight of the cosmetic composition.

Such a composition of the invention is applied topically, the presence of the anti-oxidizing agent to fight against skin aging. Of course, the composition may be in any of the galenical forms applicable to the skin, such as in particular solution, emulsion, microemulsion, gel, cream, ointment, milk, lotion. It may contain the usual adjuvants for cosmetic and dermatological compositions, such as fats, emulsifiers, co-emulsifiers, gelling agents, preservatives, solvents, perfumes, etc.

The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic treatment method for combating cellular aging of the skin, in particular that caused by external aggressions such as UVA and UVB, consisting in applying to the skin the cosmetic composition as previously described. . The invention and the advantages thereof will be apparent from the following exemplary embodiments.

EXAMPLE 1 PREPARATION AND EFFICIENCY OF THE ANTIOXIDANT AGENT OF THE INVENTION

A / PREPARATION

1. Oak bark extraction Quercus robur, Quercus ilex and Quercus pubescens The following process is applied separately to each extract.

10 g of barks are reduced to fragments of 1 to 2 cm and are placed in a chamber of 100 L. The fragments are then immersed in about 50 L of 50% ethanol. The tank 15 is then evacuated and heated by microwave at a temperature of about 40 ° C for 3 hours. The extract obtained is then separated from the bark fragments by sieving on a mesh of 50 m. The extract is then placed under vacuum at a temperature of 45 ° C., which makes it possible to evaporate the alcoholic phase by distillation until an extract with a 6% solids content is obtained. The extract thus obtained is then diluted in glycerin in a ratio of 1/1 weight.

2. Extraction of anise

The extraction protocol described above is used identically for the extraction of anise.

3. Antioxidant Agent of the Invention (AAO)

The following composition is then prepared by mixing the extracts obtained according to the processes described in the above paragraph in% by weight.

Hydroglycerinated Extract of Quercus robur: Glycerine Extract and Que rcus pubescens: Hydroglycerine Extract and Quercus ilex: Hydroglycerin and Green Anise Extract: B / Antioxidant Activity of the Agent of the Invention

In this example, the antioxidant activity of the composition described in the paragraph above is tested. Anti-radical properties are sought by measuring the relative rate of different free-radical species within each cell. The measurement can be performed on cells at rest (basal radical state) and on cells stressed by UV irradiation.

The aim of the study is to evaluate the effects of the composition on the level of lipid peroxidation (PL) in human cells (Jurkat) exposed or not to irradiation UVA + UVB. The measurement of PL was performed using a specific fluorescent probe, by the flow cytometry method. This method has the advantage of a very high sensitivity by measuring the fluorescence of each cell, and this on a large number of cells (10,000 cells analyzed per sample).

Materials and methods Cells used - Type: Jurkat human lymphoid cells - Culture: 37 ° C, 5% CO2 - Culture medium: RPMI 1640 (Invitrogen 31870-025) 2mM L-glutamine (Invitrogen 25030024) Penicillin 50 UUml-Streptomycin 50 g / m1 (Invitrogen 15070063) 10% fetal calf serum (Invitrogen 10106451). - Test medium: MEM without phenol red and calf serum free (Lab Poly 5503401) 1.87 mg / ml sodium bicarbonate (Invitrogen 2508 0060) 2mM L-glutamine (Invitrogen 25030024) Penicillin 50 UUml-Streptomycin 50g / ml ml (Invitrogen 15070063) 535 Test Product, Reference and Probe: AAO Stock Solution Dilution Final Concentrations Tested Brown Liquid In test medium 0.016%, 0.0032% and opaque stored at 4 ° C 0.00064% Anti-oxidant Solution- stock Dilution Final reference concentrations tested Butylated 50 mM ethanol In test medium 100 M absolute hydroxyanisole (BHA, Sigma B1253) Probe stock solution Dilution Final fluorescent concentrations tested N-dodecanoyl 5 mM ethanol In test medium 1 M Aminofluorescence absolute (probe for measurement of (C11-fluorine, lipid peroxidation) interchim D109) 5 'Makrigiorgos (1997), Free Rad. Biol. Med., 22, 93-100

Treatments and analysis Pre-culture of Jurkat cells in complete RPMI 1640 medium. Cell washing in MEM medium without phenol red SVP, then incubation in the presence of AAO or reference. Addition of the C11-fluor probe to each batch for the PL assay. The C11-fluorine probe, once integrated into the membranes, sees its fluorescence decreased with oxidation. Two batches were prepared, 1 lot being irradiated and 1 lot being UV protected. The tests were performed in triplicate for irradiated cells and in monoplicate for non-irradiated cells.

Incubation 45 minutes at 37 ° C and 5% CO2. For PL assay, the C11-fluorine probe was removed by washing the cells in MEM medium. UVB irradiation at 240 mJ / cm 2 (3.2 J / cm 2 UVA); a control without UV is carried out in parallel.

Incubation 30 minutes at 37 ° C and 5% CO2. Measurement of fluorescence parameters by flow cytometry on 10,000 individual cells per sample using the FACSCArray (Becton-Dickinson) cytometer. 6 Data processing The raw count data has been transferred and processed using the Graph Pad Software (PRISM).

Intergroup comparisons were performed by ANOVA using the Dunnett Multiple Comparison Test. The percentage of protection was calculated according to the formula: (control _uv treated fuv) x 100 P% 100 control_vv û control + Uv Results

Effects on the level of lipid peroxides

In this assay, the determination of the relative amount of lipid peroxides (PL) is based on measuring the fluorescence decrease of the membrane-integrated C11-fluor probe. It is therefore important to note that a decrease in the fluorescence signal of the probe reflects an increase in the rate of membrane lipid peroxides (and vice versa). Under these conditions, and in order to simplify the understanding of the results obtained, the experimental data were expressed by the value 1 / fluorescence intensity and the percentages with respect to the UV + control presented were calculated with these values. The results are shown in the following table: Relative Intracellular Amount of Confrdle • dhR Conc. fluorescence intensity (n = 10,000 cells) 194 77 idic (PL) average ed 60 ye 1 / lnt, f luo p% control + uv% protection 14 0 Control-UV 3313 2047 3897 $ 386 0.00030 P0.01 In these experimental conditions, the basal level of lipid peroxides (PL) was not negligible (control-UV).

The irradiation significantly decreased the fluorescence intensity of the probe, reflecting the presence of radical reactions (peroxidation) at the level of the cell membranes and therefore the increase in the amount of PL (approximately a factor of 2.3 increase) .

The reference antioxidant BHA tested at 100 tM significantly decreased the relative level of lipid peroxides due to UV irradiation (80% protection). This result was expected, so it validates the test. BHA is a synthetic molecule today not used in organic cosmetics.

The composition of the invention tested at 0.016%, 0.0032% and 0.00064% decreased significantly but no dose depending on the amount of lipid peroxides. The antioxidant agent of the invention thus clearly protected the cells from irradiation and at the three concentrations tested (43% to 51% protection).

Conclusion

The composition of the invention has an important anti-radical activity and makes it possible to limit the peroxidation of the lipids following irradiation with UVA + B. Control (+ UV) BHA LTCA0074 O.0D064% 0.0032% 100pM 2088 2485 2738 1993 2129 2878 1383 1489 1478 2898 2807 3478 1438 2994 0.00041 69 Pca05 0.00044 Pe0.05

PeUQ1 o 8025 Example 2:

Serum composition around the eyes

PURIFIED WATER OIL HYDROLATE GLYCERIN EXTRACT OF THE INVENTION DUB ISIS MONTANOV 68 EXTRACT OF OAK BUTTER 1% SHEA BUTTER ARGAN GEOGARD OIL 221 XANTHANE GUM MERITOSE DERMOFELL PP GELCARIN PC911 ARGIRELINE Composition of the foaming solution

PURIFIED WATER BURDEN HYDROLATE HYDROLATE OAK GLYCERIN BASE WASHING EXTRACT OF THE INVENTION BIRD EXTRACT GEOGARD 221 CITRIC ACID JAGUAR C 162 POTASSIUM QSP 100 100% to 20% 10 to 30% 4 to 6% 20 to 30% 0.75 to 3% 0.5 to 2% 0.5% 0.2% 0.1 to 0.5% 0.1% QSP 100 10 to 20% 5 to 10% 5 to 10% 3 to 5% 3 to 5% 1 to 3% 1 to 3% 1 to 2% 0.6 to 0 to 0.45% 0.45 to 0.7% 0.4% 0 to 0.31% 0.001 to 0.1% 35

Claims (5)

1 / Antioxidant agent based on plant extracts characterized in that it contains a mixture of at least one oak extract and at least one green anise extract. 2 / Antioxidant agent according to claim 1, characterized in that the oak extract is selected from the group consisting of Quercus robur, Quercus ilex and Quercus pubescens. 3 / Antioxidant agent according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains an extract of Quercus robur, Quercus ilex and Quercus pubescens. 4 / Antioxidant agent according to claim 1, characterized in that the oak extracts are bark extracts. 5 / Antioxidant agent according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains three extracts of oak bark, respectively Que rcus robur, Que rcus ilex and Quercus pubescens, and an extract of anise green. 6. Antioxidant agent according to claim 1, characterized in that the extracts contain from 1 to 10% by weight of dry matter. 7 / Antioxidant agent according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains: - 20 to 40% of a hydroglycerine extract of Quercus robur, 25 - 20 to 40% of a glycerine extract of Quercus pubescens, - 20% of a hydroglycerinated extract of Quercus ilex, - 20 to 40% of a hydroglycerinated extract of green anise. 8 / Topical cosmetic composition comprising the anti-oxidant agent according to one of Claims 1 to 7. 9 / Cosmetic composition according to Claim 8, characterized in that the antioxidant agent represents between 3 and 20% by weight of the composition.1510 / Cosmetic treatment method for combating cellular aging of the skin, comprising applying to the skin the cosmetic composition that is the subject of one of claims 8 or 9.