FR2779346A1 - Plant extract for preventing and treating effects of solar radiation on skin and hair - Google Patents

Abstract

The extraction of an ingredient with antiradical activity and protecting the skin and hair against solar radiations, especially UVA and UVB comprises: (1) grinding sunflower seeds to obtain a semolina; (2) solubilizing the semolina in water; (3) filtering and clarifying the solution; (4) optionally concentrating and/or dehydrating; and (5) sterilizing on filter membrane. The extraction comprises: (1) grinding sunflower seeds to obtain a semolina; (2) solubilizing the semolina in water and maintaining the pH at 5-7 with a solubilization of more than 50 g/l; (3) filtering and clarifying the solution; (4) optionally concentrating and/or dehydrating the solution; and (5) sterilizing on filter membrane to remove the microorganisms, the total mesophilic flora, yeasts and molds. Independent claims are also claimed for: (1) the composition of the extracted ingredient; and (2) a cosmetic composition comprising at least one part of this ingredient.

Description

PROCESS FOR OBTAINING AN ACTIVE ANTI-RADICAL PRINCIPLE AND

  PHOTOPROTECTIVE, ACTIVE INGREDIENT OBTAINED, COMPOSITION

COSMETIC

  The present invention relates to a method for extracting an anti-radical active principle and the active principle obtained. The invention also covers the cosmetic composition based on this active principle as well as the preventive protection and curative treatment process for the skin and the hair with respect to solar radiation by application of this composition. We know that ultraviolet radiation of medium wavelength, UVA and UVB, is aggressive with respect to the skin and hair. These UV rays cause the formation of oxygenated free radicals which

  are the promoters of morphological and histological alterations.

  1 / It is thus found that UVA induce early aging of the skin and dermal lesions and that UVB, the most deleterious, cause erythemas and immunosuppressive effects. In particular, under UVB aggression, a particularly serious alteration is the formation of "Sunburn Cells", that is to say the formation of keratinocytes in

  apoptosis. These cells die before reaching the stratum corneum.

  This radical aggression causes the release of peroxides but it is noted that not all enzymes make it possible to reduce the formation of Sunburn Cells so effectively so that specific choices must be made depending on the applications. For example, we know that superoxide dismutase limits the number of altered cells while the

catalase turns out to be inactive.

  These free radicals cause the peroxidation of fatty acids in cell membranes and lead to inflammatory reactions to say the least, or even cell death. These very active free radicals can even

  reach DNA and initiate mutagenesis.

  The reactivity of these radicals also causes the polymerization of dermis proteins such as hyaluronic acid, elastin or collagen. The structures after polymerization are complex and very rigid, which makes these structures fragile and brittle. This is one of the causes of

sagging tissue.

  Cells develop two defense mechanisms - an enzymatic mechanism, which uses enzymes such as catalase, peroxidase or even superoxide dismutase, and - a chemical mechanism, which acts by the "quenching" effect, an effect which is described in particular in the publication, photochemistry and photobiology, vol 46, n 2, p213-221, "potential, involvement of free

  radical reactions in ultraviolet light mediated cutaneous damage ".

  2 / With regard to the hair, it is noted that UVA in particular, cause irreversible damage to the cuticle of the hair. After exposure, the free radicals cause the lipid peroxidation of the intercellular cement, which weakens the hair and makes it brittle in addition to its

dull and dry appearance.

  The hair is also different from the skin in that it does not have its own regeneration system. Restructuring involves

  slow synthesis in the hair follicle.

  Also, for the hair, it seems preferable to go through protection rather than repair. It even seems useful to focus on an effect

  barrier to prevent radical damage.

  The natural protective mechanisms, both for the skin and for the hair, often remain insufficient and the solution developed consists in

  strengthen the defenses by using natural photoprotectors.

  Thus, the method according to the invention consists in extracting from the sunflower an active principle composed essentially of photoreceptors and polyphenols, in order to strengthen the protective mechanisms of the skin and the hair by neutralizing the free radicals generated under the effect of

UVA and UVB radiation.

  It should be noted that the active principle according to the invention is specific and essentially aims to limit the propagation of free radicals. To this end, this method of extracting an active principle for the purpose of an anti-radical and photoprotective action of the skin and the hair with respect to solar radiation, in particular UVA and UVB, is characterized in that it comprises the following stages - grinding sunflower meal to obtain semolina, - aqueous solubilization of this sunflower semolina while maintaining the

  pH between 5 and 10 with a solubilization greater than 50 g / I.

  - filtration for the removal of plant particles and to clarify the solution, - possibly concentration and / or dehydration, and

  - sterilizing filtration on a membrane to limit the presence of micro-

  organisms, total mesophilic flora, yeasts, and molds.

  As for the active principle obtained by this process, it is characterized in that it comprises: - dry matter content greater than 10 g / I, in particular between 1 0 and 1 00 g / I, more particularly between 14 and 22 g / I

  - pH between 3.0 and 10.0, more particularly between 5.0 and 6.0.

  - protein level between 1 and 5 g / l, more particularly between 1 and 3 g / l, - total sugar level greater than 2 g / l, in particular between 2 and 1 5 g / l, more particularly between 6 and 11 g / I, and - total polyphenol content greater than 2 g / I, in particular between

  2 and 10 g / I, more particularly between 4 and 8 g / I.

  The invention also covers the cosmetic composition for combating free radicals generated by solar radiation in the skin and hair, a composition which is characterized in that it comprises at least for

  on the one hand, this active principle associated with any suitable dosage form.

  The invention also relates to a method for preventive protection of the skin or of the hair with a view to combating free radicals generated by solar radiation, which is characterized in that it is available preventively on

  the skin a cosmetic composition at a rate of 1 to 3% of active principle.

  The invention also relates to a method of curative treatment of the skin with a view to combating free radicals generated by solar radiation, characterized in that a cosmetic composition is provided on the skin.

  1 to 3% of active ingredient.

  It is also planned to use this active principle for an anti-inflammatory treatment process for the skin following attacks caused by solar radiation, which is characterized by the fact that there is a

  cosmetic composition in an amount of 1 to 3% of active ingredient.

  The invention is now described according to a series of trials and tests showing the results obtained. The various appended figures show: - FIG. 1A, the anti-radical activity curve as a function of the concentration of active principle, faced with the aggressions of UVA radiation, - FIG. 1B, the anti-radical activity curve as a function of the concentration of active principle, in the face of the aggressions of UVB radiation, FIG. 2, a comparative summary of the degree of protection, - FIG. 3, a table of the results of a curative or preventive treatment on the hair, - FIG. 4, a summary table anti-inflammatory activities mainly anti-phospholipase A2, and - Figure 5, a summary table of the inhibitory release activity

interleukin IL1c.

  I / Extraction method The method for extracting the active principle according to the present invention consists of the following stages: grinding sunflower meal to obtain semolina, aqueous solubilization of sunflower semolina while maintaining the pH

  between 5 and 10 with a solubilization greater than 50 g / I.

  - filtration for the removal of plant particles and to clarify the solution, - possibly concentration and / or dehydration, and

  - sterilizing filtration on a membrane to limit the presence of micro-

  organisms, total mesophilic flora, yeasts, and molds.

  II / Characterization of the active principle: The active principle resulting from this process is characterized by the following composition and by the following characteristics 1 / dry matter: - greater than 10 g / I, in particular 10- 100 g / I and more particularly 14 to 22 g / I. This range is determined by passing through the oven at

   C until a constant weight is obtained.

  2 / pH: the pH value is between 3.0 and 10.0, more particularly between 5.0 and 6.0, this range of values being obtained by the method

potentiometric.

  3 / protein content the content is between 1 and 5 g / I more particularly between 1 and

3 g / I.

  Total nitrogen is determined by the KJEDAHL method (officiai method of analysis of the AOC 1975, 12th ed W. Horwitz, NY, p1 5-60) 4 / total sugar content: the method used is the DUBOIS method (DUBOIS , M et ai, (1956)

  Analytical chemistry, 28, N 3 p 350-356).

  In the presence of phenol and concentrated sulfuric acid, the reducing sugars give a yellow-orange colored compound and the reading on the spectrophotometer gives a value which, from the standard curve (comprising 1/3 of mannose, 1/3 of glucose and 1/3 galactose), allows to deduce a value of total sugars greater than 2 g / I and more precisely

  between 2 and 15 g / I, in particular between 6 and 11 g / I.

  / total polyphenols: the rate is greater than 2 g / l, in particular between 2 and 10 g / l, more particularly 4 to 8 g / l, expressed as gallic acid. Indeed, the method used consists in comparing the action of the Folin-Ciocalteu reagent (phosphotungstic acid and phosphomolybdic) which gives a blue coloration to the phenolic nuclei with a standard curve of blue colorations, established with standard polyphenols, in this case of

  Gallic acid or 3,4,5- Trihydroxybenzoic acid.

  III / Effects of the active principle for the fight against the damage of solar radiation on the skin and on the hair: 1 / Anti-radical activity with respect to photo-induced free radicals a / on the skin: An anti-radical action has been noted of the active ingredient extracted from

  sunflower by trials, on keratinocytes and fibroblasts.

  The keratinocytes and fibroblasts are cultured in suitable culture media and subjected to UV radiation with radiation intensities of

  between 0.1 and 0.3 joules / cm2 in UVB and between 20 and 40 joules / cm2 in UVA.

  The protective effects are analyzed by spectrometric measurement (540 nm) of cell viability carried out after coloring with neutral red. The results are expressed as a percentage of activity relative to a control culture. There is a significant anti-radical activity of the active principle according to the invention with respect to photoinduced free radicals, this on keratinocytes

like fibroblasts.

  b / on the hair The tests consist in determining the level of peroxides after UVA aggression. The hair of five volunteers is divided into 4 batches, the first which remains the control batch, the second which is treated with the active principle according to the invention but not irradiated with UVA, the third which is treated preventively with the active principle according to l invention before UVA irradiation and the fourth which is treated with the active ingredient according to the invention, after irradiation

to UVA.

  The 4 batches of locks are rinsed and are then analyzed to determine the level of peroxides. This determination is carried out by measuring the fluorescence emitted by the oxidation of a marker, in this case 2 ′, 7 ′ dichlorofluorescin-diacetate, in the presence of the photo-generated peroxides. The results are grouped in the table in FIG. 3 which expresses the fluorescence units / mg of hair, for treatment with 2% of

active ingredient.

  The treatment at 2% with the active principle according to the invention makes it possible, applied preventively, to reduce the rate of peroxides by 69% and,

  applied curatively, to decrease by 42% the rate of peroxides.

  2 / Photoprotective activity on the skin: This study was carried out on human skin explants cultivated in a suitable medium and in the presence of reference anti-free radical solutions such as a mixture of vitamin E and vitamin C, or in the presence of the active principle

  according to the invention, at a concentration less than or equal to 5%.

  The "sunburn cells" caused by UV radiation are counted in each of the tests. The results are grouped in the diagram of the

figure 2.

  The protective effect of the active principle according to the invention is observed, which can lead to more than 50% reduction in the number of “sunburn cells” type cells. This effect is moreover comparable to that which is induced by the mixture of vitamins E and C. 3 / Anti-inflammatory activity It is known that an inflammation of the skin results in lesions of the epidermis and the appearance of inflammatory syndrome at the junction

dermo-epidermal and dermis.

  Radiation induces a disorder in the keratinocytes with production: - of an enzyme: phospholipase A2, which detaches arachidonic acid

  phospholipid on which it is normally attached.

  Arachidonic acid is then transformed in two ways. The first path, called cydoxygenasic, creates an internal cycle in the structure of the arachidonic acid molecule from which are

made of prostaglandins.

  The second path, called lipoxygenase, leads to the formation of very heterogeneous linear molecules whose products are mainly leukotrienes. Keratinocytes actually release far more leukotrienes than prostaglandins, and these substances are responsible for increased vessel permeability as well as painful effects. Released at the focus of inflammation, along with some products of the prostaglandin pathway, leukotrienes greatly contribute to the amplification of

inflammatory reactions.

  - cytokines, in particular the interleukin IL1o, which will subsequently induce the secretion of other cytokines involved in the reactions

inflammatory.

  It is therefore important that the active principle according to the invention lead to an anti-phospholipase A2 activity and to an activity of inhibition of salting out.

ILloa interleukins.

  a / we note in the table of figure 4 that the active ingredient, extracted

  according to the invention, has anti-phospholipase A2 activity.

  b / it is noted in the table of FIG. 5, that the active principle according to the invention has capacities for inhibiting the release

of interleukins IL1a {.

Claims (6)

  1. Method for extracting an active principle with a view to anti-   radical and photoprotective of the skin and the hair with respect to solar radiation in particular UVA and UVB, characterized in that it comprises the following stages: - grinding of sunflower meal to obtain semolina, - aqueous solubilization of this semolina sunflower maintaining the pH between 5 and 7 with a solubilization greater than 50 g / l, - filtration for the removal of plant particles and to clarify the solution, - possibly concentration and / or dehydration, and   - sterilizing filtration on a membrane to limit the presence of micro-   organisms, total mesophilic flora, yeasts, and molds.   2. Active principle obtained by the process of claim 1, characterized in that it comprises: - dry matter content greater than 10 g / l, in particular between and 100 g / I, more particularly between 14 and 22 g / I - pH between 3.0 and 10.0, more particularly between 5.0 and 6.0, - protein level between 1 and 5 g / l, more particularly between 1 and 3 g / l, - sugar level total greater than 2 g / l, in particular between 2 and g / l, more particularly between 6 and 1 1 g / l, and - total polyphenol content greater than 2 g / l, in particular between   2 and 10 g / I, more particularly between 4 and 8 g / I.   3. Cosmetic composition for combating free radicals generated by solar radiation in the skin and hair, characterized in that it comprises at least in part the active principle according to   claim 2 associated with any suitable dosage form.   4. A method of preventive protection of the skin and hair with a view to combating free radicals generated by solar radiation, characterized in that a cosmetic composition according to claim 3 is provided on the skin or on the hair reason from 1 to 3% of active ingredient.   5. A method of curative treatment of the skin with a view to combating free radicals generated by solar radiation, characterized in that a cosmetic composition is available on the skin or on the hair.   claim 3 in an amount of 1 to 3% of active ingredient.   6. A method of anti-inflammatory treatment of the skin following attacks caused by solar radiation, characterized in that a cosmetic composition according to claim 3 is available on the skin.   1 to 3% of active ingredient.