FR2859225A1 - Cut pile fabric manufacturing procedure has at least one cutting line offset to give pile tufts of different lengths - Google Patents

Abstract

The procedure, in which pile loops (102) lying in parallel columns (30) on a layer of fabric are cut along lines (60) to create pairs of pile tufts, differs in that at least one of the cutting lines is offset relative to the centre of the column so that one of the two resulting pile tufts is shorter than the other. The lines of the cuts can be straight or non-straight, and positioned to give tufts of different lengths from one column to another. In variants the cutting lines can be repeated from one piece of fabric to another, and the loop columns can have the same or different widths.

Description

PROCESS FOR PRODUCING A VELVET, EQUIPMENT IMPLEMENTING THIS

PROCESS AND VELVET OBTAINED

  The present invention relates to a method of manufacturing a pile from a piece of fabric having on at least one of its faces wire loops arranged in parallel columns, in which at least a portion of the loops of wire are cut according to predetermined cutting lines to form, with each loop of cut wire, two strands of velvet. The invention also relates to equipment implementing this method, this equipment comprising at least one cutting machine provided with at least one cutting tool for cutting the wire loops of at least a portion of the columns of the piece of fabric. according to predetermined cutting lines. The invention finally relates to the velvet formed from a piece of fabric having on at least one of its faces wire loops arranged in parallel columns and cut to form ribs of pile strands, this velvet being obtained according to this method manufacturing and / or with this equipment.

  Velvet fabrics are widely used in the field of clothing and furniture. Depending on the desired effect, they may have more or less wide ribs. One of the manufacturing methods consists in weaving loops of yarns of the same width over the entire width of the fabric to form identical parallel columns and then cutting the loops of threads along cutting lines passing through the median axis of each column. The columns having the same width, all the velvet strands of the piece of cloth have the same length.

  Another manufacturing method consists in weaving son loops by alternating a loop of large wire, a loop of fine wire, to thereby form parallel columns, alternately alternating wide and thin. The loops of threads are then cut along cutting lines passing through the median axis of each column to create an alternation of ribs each of which comprises short velvet strands and long velvet strands.

  The visual effects of the velvets currently known are therefore limited to fine ribs, more or less wide ribs and ribs having regularly and repetitively short velvet strands and long alternating strands of velvet. To this day, there are no irregular and / or random ribbon velvets to create new visual effects that can generate new fashion trends.

  The object of the present invention is to provide a manufacturing method for creating velvets producing new visual effects in a simple manner at competitive costs and without heavy investment.

  This object is achieved by a manufacturing method as defined in the preamble, characterized in that at least one of the cutting lines is positioned offset with respect to the median axis of the corresponding column to obtain two strands of velvet at least one of which has a length less than half the length L of the thread loop before cutting.

  A predetermined number of cutting lines are preferably positioned so that the lengths of the pile strands are respectively different from one column to another.

  Straight or non-rectilinear cutting lines may be used.

  Advantageously, the cutting lines are positioned in a predefined pattern which is repeated on the width of the piece of fabric at a predetermined frequency.

  Columns with identical widths or widths can be used.

  Preferably, at least one column of wire loops is cut along two distinct predetermined cutting lines to form, with each loop of cut wire, three strands including two pile strands and a drop.

  This object is also achieved by velvet manufacturing equipment as defined in the preamble, characterized in that at least one of the cutting tools is arranged to create a cutting line disposed offset from the median axis of the corresponding column to obtain two strands of velvet at least one of which is less than half the length L of the wire loop before cutting.

  This equipment advantageously comprises a set of cutting tools and a set of cutting guides, each cutting guide being associated with a column of the piece of fabric to guide the corresponding cutting tool according to the predetermined cutting line, at least one of the cutting guides being arranged to create this cutting line offset from the median axis of the corresponding column.

  Preferably, this equipment comprises a predetermined number of cutting guides arranged to create cutting lines, positioned differently in the width of one column to another column and obtain, for each of the columns, strands of velvet having lengths respectively different.

  Each cutting guide preferably comprises a front part forming a tapered nose intended to be inserted into the column to follow it, a rear part forming a bead intended to be mounted on the cutting machine and a middle portion provided with a slot intended to receiving the cutting tool and arranged to define the cutting line, the cutting line of at least one cutting guide being arranged offset from its median axis.

  The cutting guides may have a color code to identify the identical cutting guides.

  The cutting guides may have different lengths and the slots may be rectilinear or not.

  The cutting tools advantageously consist of knobs mounted on a rotor with sufficient axial clearance to follow the cutting guides regardless of the positions of the cutting lines.

  This object is finally achieved by a velvet according to the preamble, characterized in that it comprises, for the same side, strands of velvet of different lengths, these lengths being obtained according to the previous manufacturing process and / or with the equipment previous.

  This velvet comprises, for at least a portion of the ribs, lengths of irregular velvet strands along these ribs.

  The lengths of pile strands may form, on the width of the piece of fabric, an irregular pattern or pattern that repeats at a predetermined frequency.

  The present invention and its advantages will appear better in the following description of embodiments, given by way of non-limiting example, with reference to the appended drawings, in which: FIGS. 1C and 2A-C show schematically and respectively two methods. of the prior art, the velvets obtained by these methods and a top view of the sets of cutting guides used for the implementation of these two processes, FIGS. 3A-C show schematically and respectively a manufacturing method. according to the invention, the velvet obtained and a top view of a set of cutting guides, - Figures 4A-C are views similar to those of Figures 3A-C according to a first embodiment of the invention, FIGS. 5A-C are views similar to those of FIGS. 3A-C according to a second variant embodiment of the invention; FIG. 6 is a top view of a guide assembly; 5 is a sectional side view of a section guide of FIGS. 1 to 6.

  FIGS. 1A and 2A-C and 7 illustrate schematically and in an enlarged manner two embodiments of the velvet manufacturing method of the prior art making it possible to produce velvets 2a, b with regular ribs, the columns 3a, b having widths L identical (see Fig. 1AD) or widths e thin and L broad alternately regular (see Fig. 2A-C). According to another method not shown in the prior art, the columns have multiple widths, for example wide, medium and fine distributed in a regular or random manner.

  The pile 2a-b are obtained by a piece of fabric 100 formed of a base, woven in the conventional manner by warp threads 101 and weft threads (not shown so as not to overload the drawings), called weft, and surmounted by wire loops 102 arranged in parallel columns 3a-b. The thread loops 102 are made by weft threads, called weft of pile and are woven float on the base. Between two floats, the weft of hair passes between several son of chain 101, neighbors of the base, to create zones of binding of the strands. This piece of fabric 100 is generally called ecru since it is made with undyed son. To obtain a velvet, the ecru is passed through a cutting machine in which the thread loops 102 are cut along cutting lines 6 provided in the median axis of the columns 3a, b, to form, for each column 3a, b, two strands of velvet 4a, 4b of the same length. The piece of fabric 100 is then passed through a brushing machine which raises the strands of velvet 4a-b to create the ribs formed of velvet pile.

  In FIGS. 1A-C, the son loops 102 are of the same width L over the entire width of the piece of fabric 100 and form parallel and identical columns 3a. The woven base is represented only by its warp threads 101 so as not to overload the drawings. The cutting machine is shown schematically by the axis A of its cutting rotor and its cutting tools consisting in this case of rollers 5, positioned substantially in the median axis of each son loop 102 to create, for each column 3a, two strands of velvet 4a. The width of the columns 3a being identical, the lengths L / 2 of the velvet strands 4a are identical over the entire width of the piece of fabric 100. Similarly, the cutting lines 6 being separated by a regular interval I, the ribs 7 obtained after brushing are identical, they have the same width and velvet strands of the same length L / 2.

  In Figs. 2A-C, the wire loops 102 have wide thin and wide widths L, alternating evenly over the entire width of the fabric piece 100. The wire loops 102 thus form fine parallel columns 3a, b. and alternating broad. The cutting machine is shown schematically by the axis A of its cutting rotor and its cutting tools consist in this case of wheels 5 positioned substantially in the central axis of each son loop 102 to create, for each column 3a, b two strands of velvet 4a or 4b. The widths L and e of the columns 3a and 3b being different, the lengths L / 2 and 1/2 of the pile strands 4a and 4b are alternately long and short, the lengths L / 2 and e / 2 being respectively identical to each other. . The cutting lines 6 being separated by regular intervals I and the widths L and e of the columns 3a and 3b being different, the ribs 7a, b obtained after brushing are of the same width but separated by successively narrow and wide intervals repeating on the width of the piece of fabric 100.

  The various embodiments of the manufacturing method according to the invention and the corresponding equipment are illustrated schematically with reference to FIGS. 3A-C, 4A-C, 5A-C and 7. Note that the cutting lines 60 are no longer positioned. necessarily in the median axis of each son loop 102 but, for some columns 30, asymmetrically with respect to the median axis to create, for these columns 30, two strands of velvet 40a, b of lengths 11 and 12 different at least one of which is less than L / 2, half the length L of the wire loop 102 before cutting.

  According to a first embodiment not shown, the columns have identical widths throughout the width of the piece of fabric, the cutting lines are offset with respect to the median axis of the corresponding column, the offsets being identical to one another. column to another. N columns are thus obtained whose pile strands have identical lengths and identical lengths, the lengths 11 and 12 being different. The widths of the columns being identical, the interval between the ribs is identical throughout the width of the piece of fabric. Thus, after brushing ribs having regularly and repetitively short strands of velvet and long pile of velvet alternating, these ribs being arranged at regular intervals.

  According to a second embodiment not shown substantially similar to the previous one, the cutting lines offset with respect to the median axis of the corresponding columns are combined with cutting lines positioned in the median axis of the columns. Columns are thus created in which the L / 2 length of the two pile strands is equal to half the length of the starting wire loop and other so-called offset columns of strand lengths 11 and 12, of which at least one is less than half the length of the lead loop. Since the offsets are identical for all the offset cutting lines and the column widths being identical, the lengths 11 and 12 are respectively identical from one column to another, the interval between the ribs is identical over the entire width of the column. piece of cloth.

  After brushing, ribs are obtained with short and / or medium and / or long velvet strands arranged at regular intervals. According to the arrangement chosen for the cutting lines, this arrangement can be random on the width of the piece of fabric or in a predefined pattern, this drawing being repetitive at a predetermined frequency.

  FIGS. 3A-C show a third embodiment substantially similar to the previous embodiment in which the cutting lines 60 are offset with respect to the median axis of the columns by irregular intervals so that the lengths Ili and 12i of the pile strands 40a , 40ib of a column i are different from the lengths 11 n and 12n respectively of the pile strands 40na, 40nb of a column n, the lengths of the pile strands 40a, 40b of the other columns being equal to L / 2. The columns 30 being evenly spaced, after brushing, ribs 70 distributed at regular intervals and having velvet strands of multiple lengths are obtained. The arrangement chosen for the cutting lines 60 may be random on the width of the piece of fabric 100 as shown in FIG. 3B or in a predefined pattern, this pattern being repetitive at a predetermined frequency.

  According to Figs. 4A-C, the wire loops 102 are of different widths throughout the width of the fabric piece 100 and form parallel columns 30 of different widths L. At least a portion of the knurls 50 are positioned so that the cutting lines 60 are offset from the center axes of the corresponding columns 30 and the offsets between the columns 30 are different from each other. Thus, at least a portion of the columns have different widths and lengths 11, 12 of different pile strands 40a, 40b. Other ribs 70 have lengths L / 2 of pile strands 40a, 40b equal to half the length L of the corresponding column 30. Columns having different widths and velvet strands of the same length or columns with identical widths and velvet strands of different lengths can also be obtained. In the example shown, after brushing, ribs 70 having velvet strands 40a, b of any length, spaced at irregular intervals, the variations of length and of interval being randomly selected or according to a predefined pattern which may be repetitive according to a predetermined frequency.

  According to another embodiment not shown, the son loops are of different widths throughout the width of the piece of fabric and form parallel columns of different widths. At least a portion of the columns are each associated with two wheels defining two cutting lines forming, for each loop of son, three strands including two strands of velvet and a fall. The two cut lines of each column may be asymmetrical with respect to each other and with respect to the median axis of the column. Thus, after brushing, ribs having velvet strands of all lengths spaced at variable intervals are obtained, these length and interval variations being chosen randomly or in a predefined pattern, this pattern being repetitive at a predetermined frequency.

  FIGS. 5A-C show another embodiment substantially similar to the previous one in which, the two cutting lines 60, 61 of the columns 30 concerned are arranged symmetrically with respect to each other and with respect to the median axis of each column 30. When cutting, the loops are cut into three strands, a fall and two strands of velvet 40a, 40b. Thus, after brushing for each rib 70 lengths 11, 12 of strands 40a, 40b are identical to each other. The ribs 70 are spaced at variable intervals, these intervals being chosen randomly or according to a predefined drawing, this drawing being able to be repetitive at a predetermined frequency. In this example, the cutting lines 60, 61 are arranged so that the lengths of the strands 11, 12 are identical to half the width e of the columns 30 whose cutting line 60 is in the median axis of the columns 30. The ribs 70 are thus arranged at irregular intervals while having lengths of pile strands 40a, 40b identical throughout the width of the piece of fabric 100, as shown in Figure 5B.

  These different embodiments allow to create a range of velvet with original and varied visuals.

  It is also possible to use non-rectilinear cutting lines, for example sinusoidal lines or having any other profile adapted to obtain different effects on the length and the width of the piece of fabric. It is thus possible, for each column, to vary, along its length, the length of the pile of velvet and to obtain other visual effects.

  According to the prior art, the equipment la, b manufacturing to obtain these velvet comprises, in known manner, a cutting machine provided with a cutting table on which the piece of fabric 100 and tools of cut 8 to cut all or part of the thread loops 102 of the columns 3a, b of the piece of fabric 100 according to predetermined cutting lines 6.

  With reference to FIGS. 1A, C, 2A, C and 7, this equipment 1a, b comprises, for example, a cutting rotor, of axis A, disposed above the piece of fabric 100 in movement. This cutting rotor, of which only the axis A is shown, carries wheels 5 separated from each other by an interval I corresponding to that of the cutting lines 6, a support (not shown) carrying parallel cutting guides 8, this support being able to be fixed or mobile, each cutting guide 8 being introduced and guided in a column 3a, b of the piece of fabric 100.

  The cutting guides 8 are formed of an elongate and narrow metal piece, whose total width is adapted to that of the columns 3a, b of the wire loops 102. Each cutting guide 8 comprises a front part forming a tapered nose 84 intended to to be threaded in a column 3a, b to follow, a rear portion forming a heel 81 to be mounted on the cutting machine and a middle portion 82 provided with a slot 83 for receiving the wheel or wheels 5. De in addition, the cutting guides 8 have a width adapted to the width of the columns 3a, b of the piece of fabric 100. They must follow the inside of this column 3a, b without deviating to ensure a more or less precise position of the cutting line 6 along the entire length of the piece of fabric 100. In the case of narrow columns 3a, b, cutting guides 8 of different lengths are used to avoid blockages that could occur if they all advanced on the same line. Thus, the cutting guides 8 short, medium and long are alternated to allow the advancement of the piece of fabric 100 without blocking or stuffing.

  The knurls 5 are mounted on the rotor axis A with a certain axial clearance allowing them to follow the cutting guides 8. Struts not shown maintain the knobs 5 at a distance from each other. These spacers may be rigid or elastically deformable or comprise spring members.

  According to the invention, the equipment 10 is substantially similar to the equipment of the prior art. At least a portion of its cutting guides 80 are arranged to create cutting lines 60 arranged offset from the median axis of the corresponding columns 30 to obtain, for each of these columns 30, two strands of velvet 40a, 40b of lengths 11 and 12, at least one of which is less than L / 2, half the length L of the wire loop 102 before cutting.

  With reference to FIGS. 3C-5C, the slot or slits 83 are positioned along a cutting line 60 parallel to the median axis of the cutting guide 80, at least one of the cutting guides 80 having a cutting line 60 offset from each other. at its median axis.

  When the slot 83 is merged with the median axis of the cutting guide 80 (see Figure 1A, 1C, 2A, 2C), the loop of wire 102 is cut in the middle. The pile strands 40a, b of each column 30 have the same length.

  When the slot 83 is more or less offset to the right or left relative to the median axis of the cutting guide 80 (see some cutting guides of FIGS. 3A, 3C, 4A, 4C), the wire loop 102 is cut in an area distinct from its middle, more or less close to its binding zone. The pile strands 40a, 40b of each column 30 have different lengths 11, 12.

  When the cutting guide 80 comprises two slots 83, such as some cutting guides of FIGS. 5A, 5C, the cutting lines 60 may be provided symmetrically or otherwise with respect to the median axis of the cutting guide 80. wire 102 is then cut into three strands, a fall and two strands of velvet 40a, b. In one case, the two pile strands 40a, b are of the same lengths as illustrated (see Fig. 5), in another case, the two pile strands 40a, b have different lengths 11, 12.

  Referring to Figure 6, some cutting guides 80 are provided with a single slot 83 in a sinusoidal profile different from a cutting guide 80 to the other. The sinusoidal profiles may be identical or not between all or part of the cutting guides 80. In this embodiment, the axial play of the wheel 50 allows it to follow the sinusoidal profile. One can also provide a wheel 50 having a sinusoidal profile complementary to that of the slot 83. The cutting guides 80 having sinusoidal slots 83 and rectilinear can be combined.

  The cutting guides 80 may comprise a color code, for example provided on their heel 81, identifying the identical cutting guides 80. This color code can also identify the cutting guides 80 only according to their width, only according to the offset of their slot 83, .... This registration is useful in the creation of a new velvet pattern to form reproducible or non-reproducible designs. . In a conventional manner, the cutting guides 80 are manually introduced into each column 30 of the piece of fabric 100 and their heel 81 is pressed on the piano of the cutting machine. The color code facilitates this operation.

  According to an alternative embodiment not shown, the equipment may comprise a laser cutting tool or using any other suitable technique, the cutting lines may be rectilinear or not and possibly combined.

  The description makes it clear that the invention meets the stated goals and makes it possible in particular to obtain velvets having uneven ribs having different widths and lengths 11, 12 of varying velvet strands 40a, b producing new visual effects. in a simple way, at competitive costs and without heavy investment.

  The present invention is not limited to the embodiments described but extends to any modification and variation obvious to a person skilled in the art while remaining within the scope of protection defined in the appended claims.

Claims (21)

claims   A method of manufacturing a velvet from a piece of fabric (100) having on at least one of its faces thread loops (102) arranged in parallel columns (30), in which at least one part of said wire loops (102) along predetermined cutting lines (60) to form, with each cut wire loop (102), two pile strands (40a, b), characterized in that at least one one of said cutting lines (60, 61) offset from the median axis of the corresponding column (30) to obtain two pile strands (40a, b), at least one of which lengths (11, 12 ) is less than half the length (L) of the wire loop (102) before cutting.   2. Manufacturing process according to claim 1, characterized in that a predetermined number of cutting lines (60, 61) are positioned so that the lengths (11 i, n 12i, n) of the pile strands (4Oia, ib, 40na, nb) are respectively different from one column (i) to another column (n).   3. Manufacturing process according to claim 1, characterized in that straight cutting lines (60, 61) are used.   4. Manufacturing process according to claim 1, characterized in that non-rectilinear cutting lines are used.   5. The manufacturing method according to claim 1, characterized in that said cutting lines (60, 61) are positioned in a predefined pattern which is repeated on the width of the piece of fabric (100) in accordance with a predetermined frequency.   6. Manufacturing process according to claim 1, characterized in that columns (30) having identical widths are used.   7. Manufacturing process according to claim 1, characterized in that columns (30) having different widths are used.   A manufacturing method according to claim 1, characterized in that at least one of said wire loops (102) is cut along two distinct predetermined cutting lines (60, 61) to form with each loop of wire ( 102) cut, three strands including two strands of velvet (40a, b) and a fall.   Velvet making equipment (10) comprising a cutting machine provided with at least one cutting tool (50) for cutting at least a portion of the thread loops (102) of the fabric piece columns (30) (100) according to predetermined cutting lines (60, 61), characterized in that at least one of said cutting tools (50) is arranged to create a cutting line (60, 61) arranged offset from said the median axis of the corresponding column (30) to obtain two strands of velvet (40a, b), at least one of which has a length (11 and 12) less than half the length (L) of the loop. son (102) before cutting.   10. Equipment (10) according to claim 9, characterized in that it comprises a set of cutting tools (50) and a set of cutting guides (80), each cutting guide (80) being associated with a column (30) of the fabric piece (100) for guiding the corresponding cutting tool (50) along said predetermined cutting line (60, 61) and arranged to create this cutting line (60, 61) in a staggered manner relative to the median axis of the corresponding column (30).   Equipment (10) according to claim 10, characterized in that it comprises a predetermined number of cutting guides (80) arranged to create cutting lines (60, 61) positioned differently in the width of a column ( i) to another column (n) and obtain for each of said columns (i, n) lengths (11i, 12i, 11n, 12n) velvet strands (40a, b, 40na, b) respectively different.   12. Equipment (10) according to claim 10, characterized in that each cutting guide (80) comprises a front portion forming a tapered nose (84) to be threaded into said column (30) to follow, a rear portion forming a heel (81) to be mounted on said cutting machine and a medial portion (82) provided with a slot (83) for receiving said cutting tool (50) and arranged to define said cutting line (60 , 61), at least one cutting guide (80) having a cutting line (60, 61) arranged offset from its median axis.   Equipment (10) according to claim 10, characterized in that said cutting guides (80) comprise a color code for identifying said identical cutting guides (80).   14. Equipment (10) according to claim 12, characterized in that said slots (83) are straight.   15. Equipment (10) according to claim 12, characterized in that at least a portion of said slots (83) are non-rectilinear.   16. Equipment (10) according to claim 10, characterized in that at least a portion of said cutting guides (80) have different lengths.   17. Equipment (10) according to claim 10, characterized in that said cutting tools (50) consist of rollers mounted on a rotor with an axial clearance sufficient to follow said cutting guides (80) regardless of the positions of said cutting lines (60).   18. Velvet formed from a piece of fabric (100) having on at least one of its faces loops of thread (102) arranged in columns (30) parallel and cut to form ribs (70) of velvet strands (40a, b), characterized in that at least a portion of said ribs (70) have pile strands (40a, b) of different lengths (11, 12), these lengths (11, 12) being obtained according to the manufacturing method defined with reference to claims 1 to 7 and / or equipment (10) defined by reference claims 8 to 17.   19. Velvet according to claim 18, characterized in that at least part of the ribs (70) comprise lengths of velvet strands (40a, b) variable along said ribs (70).   A pile as claimed in claim 18, characterized in that said lengths of pile strands (40a, b) form an irregular pattern throughout the width of said piece of fabric (100).   Velvet according to claim 18, characterized in that said lengths of pile strands (40a, b) form a pattern which is repeated on the width of said piece of fabric (100) at a predetermined frequency.