EP0225239B1 - Process for producing a decorative cloth with a relief pattern, and cloth so obtained - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to a new process for the preparation by weaving, on an armor or jacquard loom, of fabric comprising decorative patterns appearing in relief, on one and / or the other side of the fabric.

The woven (or knitted) fabrics consist of a flexible sheet obtained by the interlacing and the interweaving of threads, either by weaving or by knitting, without however presenting an effect of relief other than by the differential thickness of the threads likely to be implemented.

If there are many classic and traditional methods for obtaining multiple and varied decorative effects by interlacing threads of various colors, the relief effects likely to be produced on fabric were obtained by embroidery, that is to say by adding threads positioned on the base fabric to make relief patterns appearing on the bottom of the fabric.

The present invention aims to allow the realization on a fabric obtained by weaving of decorative patterns in relief distributed at will by consequently increasing the possibilities of obtaining decorative effects in the case of fabric intended for clothing for interior decoration, or furniture.

The invention indeed makes it possible to produce, in the direction of the weft of the fabric during weaving, folds appearing in relief on one face of the fabric according to various lengths and dimensions, the distribution of these folds in relief making it possible to produce the decorative patterns sought.

We already know how to weave transverse folds (in the direction of the weft) on one side of the fabric, especially for the production of fabric for furniture (curtains, decoration, etc.).

In the context of this known method, a certain number of warp threads suitably distributed along the width of the fabric are placed in the inactive position, that is to say in a stationary position outside the virtual volume of the crowd. and weaving operations are continued on the warp threads maintained in the active position so that a transverse strip of fabric can be woven over a desired length, after which the warp threads placed in the inactive position are returned to the active position, while that the beating comb brings the transverse strip of fabric towards the winding beam of the fabric, the beam having been slightly unwound behind the length of the strip which is thus folded.

So that the transverse strip of fabric which has been woven on only part of the warp threads is folded back on itself, the subsequent fabric woven on all the warp threads immediately joining the part preceding said strip; thus on one side the fabric has a continuous surface while on its opposite side and over the entire width of the width, is formed a fold or a sort of cylindrical loop which appears in relief on said face.

It is understood that the possibilities of using this technique, to obtain decorative patterns, are extremely limited since the fold thus formed only appears on one side of fabric on the one hand, and moreover appears in the form of a strip. linear transverse which crosses the entire width of the width. (See for example document CH-A 326 919).

Under these conditions, it is only possible to obtain parallel bands spaced regularly or not, without producing patterns distributed over the entire fabric.

The present invention makes it possible to produce folds, that is to say areas appearing in relief on a fabric face, but on limited and determined parts, so as to produce regular decorative patterns or not.

The invention thus makes it possible to considerably renew the possibilities of obtaining decorative fabrics as well for furnishing, interior decoration or confection.

And the invention very simply uses the weaving looms, either on existing weave or jacquard and without modifying the material or the manufacturing structures.

To this end, the invention relates to a method for manufacturing a fabric obtained on a loom of the type in which a relief fold is formed by placing part of the warp threads in the inactive position, suitably distributed over the width of the width, while weaving continues on the other part of the warp threads, and after weaving a transverse strip over a determined length, said strip is folded back on itself being brought back to the fabric previously woven, by the action of a beating comb, and the method is characterized in that warp threads are put in the inactive position being deported and kept immobile during the inactivation period outside the virtual volume of the crowd, in a limited area of the width of the width, the formation of a subsequent strip of fabric, woven from warp threads kept in the active position being limited to said area or areas, and the fold in re lief formed by said strips being brought against the previously woven fabric by the action of the beating comb, the fold thus formed being located and limited to said areas.

Preferably and according to a more particular embodiment of the invention, a part, regularly distributed over the width of the width, of all the warp threads, is placed in the inactive position during the formation of a strip of fabric. subsequent, woven with the warp threads kept in the active position, and the inactivated warp threads are offset and kept in the stationary position during their inactivation period outside the virtual volume of the crowd and these inactivated warp threads are distributed by zones successive across the width of the width, the inactivated threads of the same zone being parallel and defining a ply, and the successive zones or plies, along the width of the width being located alternately above and below with respect to to the volume of the crowd.

According to this feature, it is understood that the subsequent strip of fabric which will be woven over a certain length by the warp threads maintained in the active position, is located along the median plane of the crowd corresponding to the plane of formation of the fabric, plane in which s '' substantially inscribes par during the shuttle unwinding the weft yarn, and this subsequent strip of fabric is inserted between zones of plies of inactivated warp threads situated above this strip and other zones or plies of inactivated warp threads situated in below this strip.

When the inactivated threads are brought back into the median plane of formation of the tissue and the comb flaps the transverse strip thus formed towards the winding beam of the tissue, in certain zones this strip is folded back on itself below the plane fabric formation, while in other areas this same band is folded over the fabric formation plane, the previously inactivated son constituting a guide automatically controlling the fold position of the band for the area considered.

And under these conditions, it is possible to determine the width of the zones so that the fold is made for a determined length on the desired face of the fabric.

And from this principle it is therefore possible to control at will the formation of folds, lengths, widths, thicknesses etc. desired on the desired face of the fabric.

And the invention therefore makes it possible to produce at will folds or beads in relief on one face of the fabric, located at will the positioning of all of the folds or reliefs making it possible to obtain the desired decorative effects.

To this end, and preferably, the warp threads intended to be temporarily brought into the inactive position and belonging to the same zone, defining the width of a ply to be obtained on one face of the fabric, are mounted on a set of integral heddles of a common frame capable of being moved in a high or low position, out of the virtual volume of the crowd during the period of inactivation and formation of the subsequent transverse strip of fabric intended to be folded up to conform the localized fold.

Preferably, during the phase of formation of the folds by folding back the strips of subsequent fabrics woven on only part of the warp threads kept in the active position, the previously deactivated threads are brought back by the operation of their heddles in the median plane of the crowd, that is to say in the extension of the previously woven fabric, so that for each zone of warp threads previously deactivated, the subsequent strip of fabric is folded back, by the operation of the comb beating against the anterior fabric, the fold in relief being made for each zone on the face of the fabric opposite to the face on which the warp threads previously applied and applied in said median plane are applied.

According to a development of the invention, the operation of the frames guiding the warp threads intended to be temporarily deactivated and belonging to the same zone, is programmed to bring said warp son intermittently into the deactivated position in transverse zones alternately with- above and below the crowd, according to a regular cycle so as to cause on the right side of the fabric folds in relief by zones distributed according to repetitive patterns.

And during the period separating two successive stitches of warp threads in the deactivation position, for the formation of a fold-back strip, all the warp threads are in the active position and weaves a continuous fabric on each face without relief, for a determined length.

According to another characteristic, the set of warp threads capable of deactivation are intermittently brought all together in the deactivation position on the same side of the crowd, the subsequent strip of fabric then being folded back by maneuvering the beating comb against the opposite side of the fabric, thus forming a continuous fold passing longitudinally (in a manner known per se) across the width and fitting longitudinally between discontinuous folds, thereby introducing a new pattern forming a transverse line appearing at regular intervals between patterns formed by folds limited to areas of the width of the fabric.

According to another characteristic of the method of the invention, the setting up and the maneuvering of the frames controlling the crowd movement and of inactive positioning of the warp threads is programmed so that for a determined transverse area, four frames are positioned or more stepped in depth and covering said transverse area, the warp threads belonging to this area being distributed over these four frames, the operation of which is programmed so that, intermittently, all the warp threads are distributed in two alternating layers, beating the crowd for regular weaving of the fabric on all the warp threads, while by intermittent period, a part of the warp threads is put, by the operation of the frames, in the inactive position out of the volume of the crowd, the other part, substantially forming the other half of the warp threads, distributed in two alternating layers and continuing their beating for weaving a subsequent strip of fabric, this strip being able to be folded in relief against the anterior fabric and on one side of the fabric (face opposite to the side in which the inactivated warp threads have been spread) the resumption of weaving is carried out on all the warp threads.

The invention also relates to the fabric obtained by implementing the method according to the invention.

To this end, the invention relates to a fabric obtained on a loom, characterized in that it comprises a plurality of transverse pleats in wefts, appearing in relief on at least one side of the fabric, the opposite side, at said ply, providing a continuous surface, and the folds appearing in relief on one side of the fabric are located at a limited section of the width of the width.

Preferably the fabric comprises a plurality of folds arranged in wefts and extending over the entire width of the width, each fold being divided into a plurality of sections, the successive sections, along the length of the fold, appearing alternately from one side and then the other of the fabric, each section appearing on only one side (the side opposite the corresponding level providing a continuous surface), each side of the fabric thus having sections of collinear or parallel folds separated by intervals of tissue forming a continuous surface.

Preferably, the folds are distributed so as to represent a regular pattern or a figurative representation.

For example, the folds are of various lengths.

According to another possibility, the folds are also of widths, conforming to various thicknesses.

Optionally, the folds are distributed randomly.

According to another embodiment, the arrangement of the pleats is combined with color effects obtained by warping, longitudinal zones of the fabric called to receive pleats on the front of the fabric comprising warp threads (not subjected to activations and consequently conforming the subsequent strip which by folding will come to form the fold) of particular colorings, thus making the fold appear once formed with a specific coloration distinguished from the bottom of the fabric.

Of course, the implementation of the process of the invention can be combined with any weaving process and in particular the production of decorative effects by the set of armor of conventional type.

• La figure 1 représente une vue en perspective schématique d'un métier à tisser conventionnel et dans lequel des fils de chaîne sont mis par zone et temporairement en position inactive pour la conformation de bandes formant repli alternativement sur une face et sur l'autre de tissu.
• La figure 2 représente les phases successives du tissage d'un tissu selon l'invention ,vue en coupe longitudinale.

Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will emerge from the description which follows and which is given in relation to a particular form presented by way of nonlimiting example and with reference to the appended drawings.

• FIG. 1 represents a schematic perspective view of a conventional weaving loom and in which warp threads are placed by zone and temporarily in the inactive position for the shaping of bands forming folds alternately on one side and on the other of fabric .
• FIG. 2 represents the successive phases of the weaving of a fabric according to the invention, seen in longitudinal section.

FIG. 1 schematically shows the fabric 1 during weaving and partially wound on the receiving beam 2.

This fabric shows at regular intervals 3.3 ', 4.4 "folds appearing on the upper face, that is to say on the front of the fabric here visible.

It is understood that in reality the collinear folds 3,5,6 or 4,7,8 actually belong to the same single fold extending transversely over the entire width of the width of the fabric. This single fold is however divided along its length into sections which appear alternately on one side and then on the other of the fabric; so that, on the face opposite to the visible face, the same folds appear in negative, that is to say that in the zone 9 separating the two fractions of folds 3 and 5, a fraction of folds is in relief on the opposite side; we see appearing on the right edge of the fabric width the lower pleats 10 and 11.

The decorative effect is obtained here by positioning the fractions of interrupted folds which are distributed over one side of the fabric.

In the example shown here and which illustrates a particularly simple form of implementation of the invention, the fractions of folds 3,5,6 etc ... are positioned in a regular and staggered fashion.

However, it is easy to program the formation of the fold on one side of the fabric according to a determined length and thickness.

The fold is formed by zones, each zone corresponding to the length of a fraction 3,5,6, by deactivating, in the zone considered, a part of the warp threads which are offset and kept in a stationary position outside the virtual crowd volume.

Thus in the example of Figure 1, the width is divided into six zones referenced A, B, C, D, E, F, In each of these zones, intermittently, warp threads are brought in the inactive position; for example, it can be seen that in zone A the warp threads defining the ply 12 are immobilized in position above the crowd; in zone B which follows, the warp threads defining the ply 13 are immobilized and brought below the crowd; and we see that successively, in zone C and in zone E, the layers 14 and 15 are brought, parallel to the layer 12, above the crowd, while in zones D and F, the layers 16 and 17 were deported and immobilized below the crowd.

A part, substantially half, of the warp threads is however kept in the active position and is distributed in two alternating plies, respectively 18 and 19 which continue to beat, while the zones or plies of warp threads 12 to 17 are kept stationary .

Under these conditions, a transverse strip 20 of fabric is formed from the warp threads belonging to the plies 18 and 19 (which extend over the entire width of the width), the plies being shown only partially in the drawing for the 'intelligence and clarity of the latter.

When the transverse strip 20 has reached the necessary length corresponding to the width of the desired fold, the plies 12 to 17 can be brought into a median plane, the winding beam of the fabric is unwound backwards of a suitable length and the maneuver subsequent of the comb brings back to the previously woven fabric the band 20 which then forms a fold back on itself or a loop, positioned on one side of the fabric, on which it is pushed back and highlighted by the deactivated and belonging warp threads at the layers 12 to 17.

And under these conditions, depending on whether the area of the transverse strip 20 is above or below a previously deactivated ply of threads, said strip will be folded above or below the mean plane of the fabric, this is ie on the upper face or on the lower face of the fabric.

But it is understood that the strip 20 forms a single transverse fold which, however, appears on one side (corresponding to the front of the fabric) only by zones of determined length, thus giving the impression of fractions of independent folds and providing the effect aesthetic sought.

FIG. 2 shows the successive stages of advancement of the fabric and the formation of the folds.

FIG. 2a shows a part of woven fabric with all of the warp threads distributed in two alternating layers 21 and 22 respectively crossed by the weft threads 23,24.

In FIG. 2b, it can be seen that at a given moment a part of the warp threads has been moved away from the crowd and brought into the upper position by defining the ply 21 ′.

FIG. 2b corresponds to a longitudinal section taken at the level of the ply 12 of FIG. 1.

However, the two plies of warp threads remaining in the active position 21 and 22 continue to beat and to conform, as can be seen in FIG. 2c, a strip of fabric 25.

When the fabric strip 25 has the desired width, it will be brought into the folded position as seen in FIG. 2d by the action of the beating comb 26, after backward movement of the winding beam. To this end, the previously deactivated warp threads 21 ′ are preferably brought back into a median plane and under these conditions they force the strip of fabric 25 to come back on itself below this median plane, that is to say - say that the fold is positioned, for the area considered, on the back of the fabric.

But we understand that this same fold, in the neighboring area (for which the deactivated warp threads have been placed in the lower position) will be folded over the front of the fabric, that is to say on the upper side, as we can see it in Figures 2h and 2i which follow.

The fold 29 obtained by folding the strip 25 back on itself is immobilized in this position because immediately then the warp threads previously deactivated and defining the ply 21 are brought back into the crowd and are distributed between the two plies 21 and 22 which continue beating and consequently producing a transverse strip of fabric 27; at a determined and programmed time, depending on the desired decorative effect, a new layer of warp yarns is brought in for a determined zone in the inactive position and in the illustration in FIG. 2g, the considered ply is this time brought in inactive and immobile position under the stride; however, the warp threads held in the active position and defining the alternating plies 21 and 22 continue to work and weave the fabric strip 28 (FIG. 2g).

When this strip 28 has reached the desired width, the fabric winding envelope comes back and the beating comb 26 brings the transverse strip 28 towards the woven anterior fabric while the ply 22 'is brought substantially in a median plane in forcing, for the zone considered, the band 28 to be positioned on the upper face of the fabric and consequently to conform the loop 30.

The operation then resumes, the fabric being continued on all the warp threads, the loop or fold 30 being immobilized on one side while the opposite side offers the appearance of a continuous fabric; the illustration of FIGS. 2f, 2g, 2h and 2i would correspond to a view in longitudinal section taken at the level of the ply 17 of FIG. 1, the ply 22 'corresponding substantially to the positioning of the ply 17.

The invention as previously described is susceptible of numerous developments, variants and embodiments.

The implementation of the patent on a weaving loom has been described above, but it is clear that the implementation of the invention can also be easily carried out on a jacquard loom.

Among the possible developments of the invention, it should be mentioned in particular the possibility of producing a fold present on both sides along the same chain axis.

It is in fact understood that it is easy, by the implementation of the means and of the method described above, to produce a fold over on one side of the fabric; and it is then possible, by placing the warp threads (from the side opposite to the previously deactivated warp threads) to make a marginal strip of fabric which will in turn be folded and brought back to the same starting point but this time on the opposite side of the width, the two folds being carried out successively and in two stages but coming to fold one above, one and the other below, to occupy the same transverse row on the fabric.

Similarly, the coloring effects which have been mentioned above can be obtained by an appropriate choice of colors at the warp threads as at the weft threads; and it is thus possible to obtain coloring effects between the warp and / or weft threads, either coming in coincidence, or on the contrary coming in opposition.

Claims (15)

1. Process for manufacturing a fabric obtained on a weaving loom of the type in which one proceeds with forming a fold (3, 4, 5) in relief by placing in inactive position part of the warp yarns (12, 13, 14), suitably distributed over the width of the machine, the warp yarns placed in inactive position being offset and maintained immobile during the period of inactivation outside the virtual volume of the shed, whilst weaving continues on the other part of the warp yarns (18, 19), and after weaving of a transverse web (20) over a determined length, said band is folded on itself, being returned towards the fabric previously woven, by the action of a swinging reed, characterized in that these inactivated warp yarns are distributed in successive zones (A to F) over the width of the machine, the inactivated yarns of the same zone being parallel and defining a lap, and the successive zones or laps over the width of the machine being located alternately above (12, 14, 15) and below (13, 16, 17) with respect to the volume of the shed; weaving is continued to form a web of fabric 20 woven from the warp yarns maintained in active position; the web of fabric is returned against the fabric previously woven by action of the swinging reed, the transverse fold formed thus being divided into sections (3, 9, 5) located alternately on one face and on the other of the machine, thus showing on the right face of the fabric the transverse folds in relief, of desired length, thickness and positioning, procuring a decorative effect.

2. Process according to Claim 1, characterized in that the warp yarns adapted to be temporarily brought into inactive position and belonging to the same zone (12,13,14,15), defining the width of a fold (3, 4, 5) to be obtained on one face of the fabric, are mounted on a set of heddles (31, 32, 33, 34) fast with a common frame adapted to be displaced in upper or lower position, out of the virtual volume of the shed, during the period of inactivation and of formation of the subsequent transverse web of fabric adapted to be folded to shape the localized fold.

3. Process according to one of Claims 1 or 2, characterized in that, during the phase of formation of the folds (3, 4, 5) by folds of the webs 25 of subsequent fabric woven on one part only of the warp yarns 21, 22 maintained in active position, the previously deactivated yarns 21' are returned by manoeuvring their heddles in the median plane of the shed, i.e. in line with the previously woven fabric, with the result that, for each zone of warp yarns previously deactivated, the subsequent web of fabric 25 is folded, by manoeuvring the swinging reed 26 against the earlier fabric 35, the fold in relief 29 being made for each zone on that face of the fabric opposite the face on which are applied the previously deactivated warp yams 21' and returned in said median plane.

4. Process according to Claim 3, characterized in that the manoeuvre of the heddle frames guiding the warp yarns intended to be temporarily deactivated and belonging to the same zone, is programmed to bring said warp yarns intermittently into deactivated position in transverse zones alternately above and below the shed, in a regular cycle so as to provoke on the face of the fabric folds in relief in zones distributed in repetitive patterns.

5. Process according to one of Claims 1 to 4, characterized in that, during the period separating two successive placings of warp yarns into position of deactivation, for the formation of a web of fold, the assembly of the warp yarns is in active position and weaves a continuous fabric on each face without relief, for a determined length.

6. Process according to one of Claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the assembly of the warp yarns capable of deactivation are intermittently brought all together into position of deactivation on the same side of the shed, the subsequent web of fabric then being folded by manoeuvring the swinging reed against the opposite side of the fabric, thus forming a continuous fold longitudinally traversing (in manner known per se) the width of the machine and inserted in the longitudinal direction between discontinuous folds, thus introducing a new pattern forming a transverse line appearing at regular intervals between patterns formed by the folds limited to zones of the width of the fabric.

7. Process according to one of Claims 3, 4, 5 or 6, characterized in that the positioning and manoeuvring of the heddle frames controlling the movement of shed and placing into inactive position of the warp yams is programmed so that, for a determined transverse zone, at least four heddle frames are positioned, stepped in depth and covering said transverse zone, the warp yarns belonging to this zone being distributed on these four frames whose manoeuvre is programmed so that, by intermittence, the assembly of the warp yarns is distributed in two alternate laps, working on the whole width of the machine to join the fabric on the assembly of the warp yams, whilst, by intermittent period, part of the warp yarns is placed, by manoeuvring the frames, into inactive position outside the volume of the shed, the other part, forming substantially the other half of the warp yarns, being distributed in two alternate laps and continuing their beats for weaving a subsequent web of fabric, this web being adapted to be folded in relief against the earlier fabric and on a face of the fabric (face opposite the side in which the inactivated warp yams have been spaced apart), the resumption of the weaving being effected on all the warp yams.

8. Fabric obtained on a weaving loom and in accordance with the process according to one of Claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it comprises a plurality of transverse folds 3, 4, 5 in wefts, appearing in relief on at least one face of the fabric, the opposite face, at the level of said fold, offering a continuous surface, and the folds appearing in relief on one face of the fabric are localized to a limited section A to F of the width of the machine.

9. Fabric according to Claim 8, characterized in that it comprises a plurality of folds disposed in wefts and extending over the whole width of the machine, each fold being divided into a plurality of sections, the successive sections, along the length of the fold, appearing alternately on one side then on the other of the fabric, each section appearing only on one face (the face opposite the corresponding level offering a continuous surface), each face of the fabric thus presenting sections of colinear or parallel folds separated by intervals of fabric forming a continuous surface.

10. Fabric according to one of Claims 8 or 9, characterized in that the folds are distributed so as to represent a regular pattern or a figurative representation.

11. Fabric according to one of Claims 8, 9 or or 10, characterized in that the folds are of various lengths.

12. Fabric according to one of Claims 8, 9, 10 or 11, characterized in that the folds are of widths, forming thicknesses, which are different from one another.

13. Fabric according to one of Claims 8 or 9, characterized in that the folds are distributed in random manner.

14. Fabric according to one of Claims 8, 9, 10, 11 or 12, characterized in that the arrangement of the folds is combined with colour effects obtained by warping, longitudinal zones of the fabric adapted to receive folds on the right face of the fabric comprising warp yams (not subjected to activations and consequently shaping the subsequent web which, by folding will form the fold) of particular colorations, thus showing the fold once formed with a specific coloration differing from the background of the fabric.

15. Process according to one of Claims 1 to 7, further characterized in that a first fold is effected on one face of the fabric followed by a second fold on the other face, the two folds being in opposition on two opposite faces of the fabric and along the same transverse axis.

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