EP0015853B1 - Process for producing a narrow woven fabric having unexpected thread effects by transversal displacement and fixation of the warp threads on or in the knitted selvedge of an elastic or non-elastic narrow woven fabric and the apparatus for realising the process - Google Patents

Abstract

A method for manufacturing a woven band having novel yarn patterns by crosswise motion and hooking of warp threads on or within the stitch selvedge of an elastic rigid woven band. A thrower 3 includes a means for hooking and transversely shifting one or more warp threads and/or one or more intermediate yarns in the direction of the warp threads to the body of the article being made. The shifting of one of these yarns is effected in accordance with a pre-determined cycle. The yarns are thereafter either meshed or inserted within the mesh to obtain embroidery effects or runproof products.

Description

The invention relates to the technical sector of weaving.

The aim sought after according to the invention is to obtain new yarn effects on elastic or rigid woven bands, by means of a simple device mounted on the loom. For example, from this inventive concept, depending on an application, it is possible to obtain festoons or rounded overhanging heads, on one or both edges of an elastic band woven on a sickle loom. There is shown in Figure 1 of the drawings, a known elastic band 1 with a mesh edge 1 ¹ and a festoon 1 ² formed on the edge opposite to the mesh edge. This festoon includes a brass wire according to known techniques. It is currently not possible to obtain effects on the selvedge side, except picot by simple loop of weft obtained with a special mechanism in addition to the filler wire system, mounted on the loom. The problem to be solved was therefore to introduce inside the mesh selvedge, a means allowing the formation of said selvedge.

Document CH-A-425.670 discloses a method of manufacturing a woven strip by insertion between two plies of warp threads (1) using weft loops (2) using a thrower (4) the weft threads being retained on the side of the strip opposite the thrower by the formation of stitches directly or by the addition of a filler thread.

The process of the Application differs from the prior art in that, in order to obtain non-slip products or yarn effects at least on the edge of the strip located on the side where the meshes are made, it is moved transversely, to inside the crowd to the mesh formation system, one or more threads arranged in the direction of the warp threads (8) and passing through the comb, the displacement of said threads being carried out according to a determined cycle, and in that the wire (s) thus displaced are either directly meshed, or inserted into the selvedge edge formed using the filler wire (s).

The means of implementing the method for deflecting the threads to be moved towards the interior of the crowd consists of a thrower or weft forming a single means for simultaneously or independently moving the thread (s) arranged in the direction of the warp threads.

The thrower has, near its end, in known manner, an opening or eyelet through which the weft thread is guided, and according to an essential characteristic of the invention, this end forms a notch with a horizontal axis, allowing engagement and guiding of warp thread (s) and / or intermediate threads.

According to a first application of the invention, the formation of a scallop on an elastic band woven on the mesh edge side is obtained by the insertion of at least two elastic threads of different tension, inside the mesh column, which is formed by the known system of the filler wire; the throwing mechanism authorizing, according to a determined cycle, the insertion simultaneously or successively, of the two elastic threads between the loops and legs of stitches of the chain, and in combination with the passage of the weft thread.

According to another application of the invention, several elastic threads or not of the chain son ply, are moved transversely from their normal working position, by the thrower, and are either meshed or inserted in the mesh to obtain effects of embroideries or items that cannot be broken.

• La figure 1 est une vue illustrant une bande élastique tissée présentant de manière connue, une lisière maille, et sur le côté opposé, un feston;
• La figure 2 est une vue illustrant le produit obtenu selon l'invention, d'une bande élastique tissée avec formation d'un feston sur le côté lisière maille;
• La figure 3 est une vue en perspective du jeteur;
• La figure 4 est une vue purement schématique d'un maillage classique;
• La figure 5 est une vue purement schématique illustrant un maillage selon l'invention;
• La figure 6 est une vue purement schématique illustrant une variante de réalisation de la figure 5;
• Les figures 7, 8, 9, 10 et 11, illustrent les différentes phases du procédé de fabrication selon une application de l'invention, de bandes élastiques tissées sur métier, avec une lisière maille présentant des festons, telles que définies schématiquement par la figure 5;
• Les figures 12 et 13 illustrent en variante de réalisations des figures 10 et 11, les phases du procédé de fabrication de bandes élastiques tissées sur métier, avec une lisière à mailles présentant des festons, telles que définies schématiquement figure 6;
• La figure 14 illustre une autre application de l'invention dans la formation d'un produit indémaillable comprenant deux ou plusieurs fils d'apport rigides ou élastiques, en les faisant travailler alternativement;
• La figure 15 illustre une variante d'un produit indémaillable comprenant deux ou plusieurs fils de liaison jouant alternativement le rôle de fil de trame;
• La figure 16 est une vue partielle en perspective, illustrant le jeteur selon une variante de réalisation, ledit jeteur étant muni d'un galet fou évitant les surtensions;
• La figure 17 est une vue partielle en perspective illustrant une autre variante de réalisation du jeteur.

To clearly define the object of the invention, without however limiting it, to the figures of the appended drawings:

• Figure 1 is a view illustrating a woven elastic band having in known manner, a mesh edge, and on the opposite side, a festoon;
• Figure 2 is a view illustrating the product obtained according to the invention, a woven elastic band with the formation of a festoon on the selvedge side mesh;
• Figure 3 is a perspective view of the thrower;
• Figure 4 is a purely schematic view of a conventional mesh;
• Figure 5 is a purely schematic view illustrating a mesh according to the invention;
• Figure 6 is a purely schematic view illustrating an alternative embodiment of Figure 5;
• Figures 7, 8, 9, 10 and 11 illustrate the different phases of the manufacturing process according to an application of the invention, of elastic bands woven on the loom, with a mesh edge having scallops, as defined schematically by the figure 5;
• Figures 12 and 13 illustrate as an alternative embodiment of Figures 10 and 11, the phases of the process for manufacturing elastic bands woven on the loom, with a mesh edge having scallops, as defined schematically in Figure 6;
• FIG. 14 illustrates another application of the invention in the formation of a run-resistant product comprising two or more rigid or elastic filler wires, by making them work alternately;
• FIG. 15 illustrates a variant of a tamper-proof product comprising two or more connecting wires alternately playing the role of weft wire;
• Figure 16 is a partial perspective view, illustrating the thrower according to an alternative embodiment, said thrower being provided with a idler roller avoiding overvoltages;
• Figure 17 is a partial view in perspective illustrating another alternative embodiment of the thrower.

There is shown in Figures 1 and 2 comparatively, an elastic band provided with scallops, woven on weaving loom and produced respectively one according to the conventional manner, and the other according to an application of the invention. The elastic band according to Figure 2 is characterized by the formation of scallops 2 on the side of its selvedge mesh 2 ¹ , while the other opposite edge may or may not have scallops made in conventional manner, that is to say without selvedge. The elastic band illustrated in FIG. 2 is not limitative of an application of the invention. Indeed and on the contrary, it can have two selvedge edges with decorative festoons executed according to the invention. In this case, it suffices to provide a second device similar to that described below, and arranged symmetrically with respect to the first, the manufacturing process being the same. However, for reasons of clarity in the description of the invention, and also in the figures of the drawings, the formation of scallops will be presented on the existing mesh edge, on a single edge of the elastic band.

Illustrated in Figure 3, the means which allows the implementation of the manufacturing process. The thrower or tram 3 known per se, is remarkable in that it has at its free end 3 ¹ a notch with a horizontal axis 3 ² , allowing the engagement and the guiding simultaneously, of one or more elastic or non-elastic threads which will be defined later. In known manner, the thrower 3 has, near the notch 3 ² , an eyelet 3 ³ authorizing the passage and guiding of the weft thread, during the manufacture of the fabric strip.

FIG. 4 is a schematic view of a conventional mesh of a strip with warp threads 4, weft threads 5, and a filler thread 6.

Figures 5 and 6 illustrate the product obtained according to an application of the invention in the formation of scallops on the selvedge side of the mesh. This product comprises a filler wire 7 forming the column of the chain, warp threads 8, weft threads 9, a first elastic thread 10, and a second elastic thread 11. The first elastic thread 10 called " gum-head ", is inserted in the chain formed by the filler wire 7, between the loops 7 ¹ and the mesh legs 7 ^2. The gum-head wire forms the external part of the festoon, and is characterized by. low voltage.

According to an important characteristic of the invention, the rounded shape of the festoon is obtained by the addition of a second elastic thread 11 called "gum-bonding thread", coming from the body of the article, as it is clearly seen in the figures 5 and 6. The bonding rubber thread is inserted according to a determined cycle, in the same passage as that of the gum head thread 10, that is to say between the same loops A1 and mesh legs A2 of the chain. The bonding rubber wire is of high tension, ie greater than that of the head rubber. It is understood, due to this characteristic of elasticity, that the bonding rubber thread tends to fold towards the body of the article and in its plane, the assembly of the chain and the rubber band head, at the places corresponding to the determined cycle, thus forming a more or less long festoon as defined by the product illustrated in FIG. 2.

An advantage of the invention lies in the fact that one can work the article with very fine threads, which was not possible before, the threads having no holding.

Another advantage of the invention lies in the fact that it is possible to obtain woven articles with original effects, the filler wire being able to be or not colored as well as the gum-head yarn; the latter being colored by covering.

Another advantage of the invention lies in the fact that the rigid or elastic articles woven according to this process, with straight edges or with scallops, cannot be broken down.

It is therefore necessary to explain the operation of the mechanism and the manufacturing process, as illustrated in FIGS. 7 to 13 of the drawings, in the case of the application to the formation of scallops on the mesh edge of an elastic band. .

Figure 7 corresponds to the starting position. All the wires are in the middle of the crowd, the thrower 3 is removed, the lever 12 of the filler wire 7 is lowered; the needle 13 is in the felling position, while the comb 14 is in the front neutral position. The weft thread 9 is normally guided by the thrower 3. The warp threads 8 are normally arranged longitudinally. The gum-head thread 10 is, in a known manner, inserted into the chain formed by the filler thread 7.

According to Figure 8, the warp threads 8 of the article body, are in the open crowd position, directed downwards (ends 8 ¹ ); the rubber bonding wire 11 is in a high shed (ends 11 ¹ ); the gum-head thread 10 remained in the half shed position corresponding to the position in FIG. 7, is picked and then guided by the indented part 3 ² of the thrower 3, during the first pass. As a result of the displacement of the thrower, transversely relative to the elastic band, the gum-head thread 10 is brought to the level of the needle 13 in the same limit position as the weft thread 9.

The needle 13 which has moved forward, its valve 13 ¹ then being open, as well as the lever 12 of filler wire 7, are in the picking position of the filler wire for the formation of conventional stitches ; the comb 14 being in the rear position. It is observed that a loop formed from the filler wire, is taken autor from the body of the needle.

According to FIG. 9, mechanisms return to their initial position illustrated in FIG. 7. Due to the return of the needle to its initial position, the loop 15 acts and closes the valve of the needle, then escapes, and due to the felling of the mesh which has just been picked in the position illustrated Figure 7, the weft thread 9 and the gum-head thread 10 are inserted together in the mesh.

According to FIG. 10, the mechanisms return to the position corresponding to FIG. 8, that is to say that the thrower 3 performs another pass, the needle 13 has moved forward, while its valve 13 ¹ is open. The gum-head thread 10 is in the low crowd position, therefore in its normal warp position. The rubber bonding wire 11 was brought into the half shed position, then was picked up by the notch 3 ² of the thrower 3. The rubber bonding wire was therefore brought to the needle 13, in the same position as the weft thread. According to this position, a loop 16 has been formed and surrounds the body of the needle.

According to FIG. 11, the mechanisms have returned to the initial position illustrated in FIG. 7, the weft thread and the bonding rubber thread are inserted into the mesh. The attachment of the scallop to the body of the article, therefore takes place during the phases illustrated in Figures 10 and 11. It requires at least one hooking to form a scallop. According to the manufacturing method described, it is noted that the head gum wire is in the opposite position to the bonding gum wire, relative to the loop formed by the weft wire.

As a variant, as illustrated in FIGS. 12 and 13, the insertion of the bonding rubber wire 11 is carried out simultaneously with the head rubber wire 10. In this case, the two wires are in the half shed position, and during the past of the thrower, this one by its notched part, plucks the two threads and brings them to the level of the needle 13, at the same level as the weft thread. When the mechanisms return, the weft thread, the head gum thread and the bonding gum thread are inserted into the mesh.

The mechanism of the invention is well understood, as a result of the particular displacements of each type of wire, the gum-head wire describing a half crowd, either high-middle or low-middle, while the wires of the body of the article describe a normal high-low crowd. The gum-head thread works, for example, according to the conventional method in plain weave, half the time. It is therefore, according to the determined cycle, in the middle of the crowd, on the trajectory of the thrower, and is therefore brought at the same time as the weft, on the side of the needle, relative to the body of the article. The gum-head wire is therefore inserted in the same passage as the weft, in the mesh formed by the filler wire. During the next loom blow, the gum-head thread returns to its initial position, that is to say shuffle up and down, and because of this return, is taken by the next stitch.

The rubber-bonding wire is brought into the half shed position (Figures 12-13), at the same time as the rubber-head wire. It is therefore inserted in the same passage as the weft and the gum-head wire. The next loom move, it returns to the initial position, and because of this return, is taken by the next stitch.

It appears that the difference in tension between the two elastic threads brings the connection point formed in the stitches of the filler wire, by the head gum wire, the weft yarn and the gum-binding wire, to the body of the article. The pitch of insertion of the rubber bonding wire can vary, in order to obtain various effects.

The interest of the invention appears clearly as well as its many and various applications. We cite in particular the possibility, on a double-throw opposite loom, of making suspenders with symmetrical festoons. There is then a supply of filler wire on the two edges.

In the case of the manufacture of a scallop according to the method, practiced on a double throw or double weft weaving loom with filler wire or without filler wire, by direct mesh of the two wefts, the two wefts are of different width . One normally weaves the body of the article, while the other, shorter, corresponds approximately to the width of the mesh selvedge. The gum-head thread is pressed against the mesh selvedge by the secondary thrower in the shortest weft, while the main thrower ensures the displacement of the main weft for normal weaving of the body of the article. The rubber bonding thread is picked up by the secondary thrower, and is brought into the shortest weft at the same time as the gumming head thread, in order to obtain the same hookings as previously defined.

Another advantage of the invention lies in the fact that the product obtained cannot be broken down. A major drawback of articles with a crochet edge is that they can be removed. The mechanism for implementing the method according to the invention overcomes this drawback.

In the embodiment illustrated in FIG. 14, it has not been shown, to make the drawing clearer, the positioning of the head gum wire and the bonding gum wire. Two or more rigid or elastic filler wires 22-23 are used, cooperating at each stroke with a weft thread 25, making them work alternately according to a predetermined pitch. If one of the stitches is cut, there is no scrolling possible.

A variant of the system is illustrated in FIG. 15. In this case, the weft thread and the filler thread are no longer used and two or more connecting threads 26-27 alternately play the role of weft thread, these two son being picked and then moved transversely by the thrower.

According to another variant, several elastic threads or not of the warp thread ply, are moved from their normal working position by the thrower, and are either meshed or inserted into the mesh to obtain embroidery effects or non-rammable articles .

An advantageous application of the invention can be made in the manufacture of Scottish fabrics. The use of the device described above makes it possible to transform a conventional loom into a simple framing machine, and consequently its derivatives, in a real trade known under the name "pick and pick". We then have in the warp thread position, on the edge opposite the mesh, a series of colored threads, on different blades of the comb. At each loom stroke, with or without a weft in the grommer's eyelet, a different colored thread is selected which is picked and then moved transversely, by the thrower, to be either meshed or inserted into the mesh, thus obtaining a fabric Scottish, or any other desired motif.

There are illustrated in Figures 16 and 17, two alternative embodiments of the thrower. According to Figure 16, it is equipped with a roller 17 mounted on an axis 18 located in the body of the thrower and behind the eyelet 3 ³ , allowing the passage of the frame, this to avoid overvoltages and breaks that may occur on the wires.

According to FIG. 17, the thrower 19 comprises at its free end, a wide notch 19 ¹ with a horizontal axis, so that the thrower forms a yoke 19 ² at its end, to allow the positioning of an axis 20 supporting a coil 21 curved, freely turning autor of its axis. By means of this coil, the thrower picks up the appropriate thread while avoiding overvoltages thereof.

The invention has many advantages and in particular the simplicity of the mechanism allowing the implementation of the manufacturing process, and the many varied applications that it offers, are emphasized.

Claims (14)

1. Method of manufacturing a woven bandage by inserting weft loops (9) between two sheets of warp yarns (8) with the aid of a thrower (3), the weft yarns (9) being retained on the side of the bandage opposite the thrower (3) by the formation of stitches directly or by adding a filler yarn (7), characterized in that for obtaining ladderproof products or yarn effects at least on the edge of the bandage located on the side where the stitches are made, one or more yarns (10, 11) disposed in the direction of the warp yarns (8) and crossing the reed are shifted transversely within the shed towards the stitch forming system, the shifting of said yarns (10, 11) being effected in accordance with a predetermined sequence, and the method being also characterized in that the yarn or the yarns thus shifted are either stitched directly or inserted within the stitch selvedge formed with the aid the filler yarn or yarns (7).

2. Method of manufacturing in the application thereof for the formation of scallops (2) on the stitch selvedge or selvedges (2¹) of an elastic band in accordance with claim 1, characterized in that two yarns ar least, disposed in the direction of the warp yarns (8), are shifted in the interior of the stitch column formed by the filler yarn system (7), said yarns (10, 11) being elastic yarns with different strechings, the hooking and the transverse shifting of said elastic yarns (10-11) permitting them to be inserted according to a predetermined sequence, simultaneously or in succession, between the loops (A¹) and the legs of stitches (A²) of the chain, and in combination with the passage of the weft yarn (9).

3. Method as claimed in Claim 2, characterized in that during the weaving and in the same passage elastic yarns (10-11) of different stretching, disposed in the direction of the warp yarns, are incorporated in the chain which constitutes the stitch column of each selvedge, one of the elastic yarns of low stretching, which is so-called »head-rubber yarn« (10) forming the external portion of the scallop, while the other elastic yarn, which is so-called »connecting rubber yarn« (11) and maintained under high stretching, defines the rounded shape of the scallop and the shaping thereof by means of a return effect towards the body of the item.

4. Method as claimed in any one of Claim 2 and 3, characterized in that the head-rubber yarn (10) and then the connecting rubber yarn (11) are gathered independently, the two yarns situated in the same stitch being in opposed position relative to the loop formed by the weft yarn (9) which has been brought at the same time.

5. Method as claimed in any one of Claims 2 and 3, characterized in that the head-rubber yarn (10) and the connecting rubber yarn (11) are gathered simultaneously the two yarns situated in the same stitch being on the same side relative to the loop formed by the weft yarn which has been brought at the same time.

6. Method as claimed in any one of Claims 1 and 2, characterized in that the filler yarn system includes at least two filler yarns (22-23) of varying colour or not, gathered alternately in accordance with a predetermined sequence, for obtaining a ladderproof product.

7. Method of manufacturing in the application thereof for the formation of woven bandages, as claimed in Claim 1, characterized in that two or more yarns (26-27) disposed in the direction of the warp yarns are gathered and play alternately the part of a weft yarn, the weft yarn and the filler yarn being omitted, the two yarns being gathered and shifted transversely.

8. Method of manufacturing in the application thereof for the formation of so-called Scotch material, as claimed in Claim 1, characterized in that an array of colour yarns, in the direction of the warp yarns, on the selvedge opposite the stitch, is disposed on different reed blades, a yarn of a different colour, at every strole of the loom, being selected to be either stitched or inserted within the stitch, with the obtention thereby of a Scotch woven material or any other desired pattern.

9. Means for implementing the method in accordance with any one of Claims 1 or 2 to 8, for deflecting towards the interior of the shed the yarns to be shifted, characterized in that the hooking and the shifting of one or more yarns disposed in the direction of the warp yarns (10-11) (26-27) for the formation of particular effects in the body of the item are provided by means of a thrower or wefter constituting the sole means for shifting simulateneously or independently the yarn or the yarns (8-10-11-26-27) mentioned before, and allowing the weft to be introduced.

10. Means as claimed in Claim 9, characterized in that the thrower is provided adjacent to the free end (3¹) thereof with an opening or eyelet (3³) through which the weft yarn (9) is guided, a means formed directly or or mounted on the body of the thrower permitting the engagement and the guiding of one or more yarns disposed in the direction of the warp yarns (8-10-11-26-27).

11. Means as claimed in any one of Claims 9 and 10, characterized in that the thrower is provided adjacent to the free end (3¹) thereof with an opening or eyelet (3³) through which the weft yarn (9) is guided, and is provided at the free end and on the external side thereof with a cut-out with horizontal axis (3²) for the engagement and the guiding of one or more yarns disposed in the direction of the warp yarns.

12. Means as claimed in any one of Claims 10 and 11, characterized in that the thrower is provided adjacent to the free end (3¹) thereof with an opening or eyelet (3³) through which the weft yarn (9) is guided, and is provided rearwardly of the eyelet (3³) with a loose roller (17) mounted on a shaft (18) located within the body of the thrower, the engagement and the guiding of one or more yarns disposed in the direction of the warp yarns being effected by said roller (17).

13. Means as claimed in any one of Claims 10 and 11, characterized in that the thrower is provided adjacent to the free end (3¹) thereof with an opening or eyelet (3³) through which the weft yarn (9) is guided, and is provided at the free end thereof with a large cut-out (19¹) with horizontal axis, so that the thrower will form a yoke (19²) at the end thereof for positioning a shaft (20) supporting a curved bobbin (21) rotating freely and for guiding one or more yarns disposed in the direction of the warp yarns during the transverse shifting of the wefter (3).

14. Method as claimed in Claim 2 for making a bandage with scallops on the stitch selvedge or selvedges, characterized in that a second thrower is used with or without filler yarn, the two wefts being provided in different widths, the wider weft weaving the body of the item, the shorter one corresponding substantially to the width of the stitch selvedge and the head-rubber yarn being applied against the stitch selvedge by the secondary thrower, within the shorter weft, while the main thrower provides the shifting of thew main weft for weaving the body of the item, the connecting rubber yarn being gathered by the secondary thrower and brought within the shorter weft at the same time as the head-rubber yarn for obtaining embroidery effects.

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