CA1049280A - Intricately weaved plushlike material used to stiffen and reinforce clothing and manufacturing method therefor - Google Patents

Abstract

Fabric in particular intended for the manufacture of reinforcing bibs for clothes, constituted on the one hand by relatively fine and / or flexible warp threads and, on the other hand, by reinforcing threads, arranged in weft, here called "threads" of long weft ", such as yarns having a high nervousness due to the relative importance of their section and / or to the nature of their constituent material, in which the ply of warp threads is in the form of a knitted ply , or basic knitting of the type comprising, as in "warp knitting", connecting threads connecting together the columns of stitches and / or the successive stitches of the same column, while each long weft thread is, by a known arrangement of the knitting loom, inserted in the basic knitting between the ply of the mesh loops and the connecting threads, at the time of the formation of successive rows of stitches thereof. The fabric is characterized in that it further comprises a plurality of so-called "short weft" threads, of relatively large section, suitable for being subjected to a scraping operation or the like in order to give the fabric a fluffy character, inserted in basic knitting during the manufacture of the fabric, by a known arrangement of the knitting loom, along a route having deep undulations, and in such a way that each of the threads passes, for a knitting face considered, both above mesh loops only above the long weft threads. And, a method of manufacturing such a fabric.

Description

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The present invention relates to a particular fabric used in the manufacture of reinforcing breastplates for clothing, and a method of manufacturing such a fabric.
A large number of garments include, at the-breast calf, a commonly designated brace plate under the simple term "plastron", intended to allow the realization tion of a correct breast curve.
In order to achieve this result, the tissues `intended for the manufacture of plastrons, generally designated under the name of "horsehair fabric", are in principle made up from yarns, with great nervousness, spun, by example, in whole or in part with animal hair such as goat hair or horsehair; the pile threads can be arranged either in warp or weft, or in chalne and weft, depending on the result you want to get.
However, the general orientation of current fashion tends towards a general reduction in clothing, in particular clothing tements of summer, and towards a greater flexibility of these, in to make them more comfortable to wear.
This trend leads to the search for solutions for building reinforcing fabrics, such as those setting the interlining and chest protector, which achieve this lightening and flexibility, while retaining the qualities of nervousness required in the direction of the cloth or they are necessary in order to give the front of the jacket a gaIbe and a suf- outfit; ~
fisante. ``
However, this target can only be achieved -very imperfectly with regard to fabrics for interlining and bibs made using the traditional weaving method of fabrics or the like on a loom.
Indeed, in such fabrics, in order to achieve this all ~ gement and this greater flexibility, in one direction fabric, we use as thin as possible warp pile, '' f -~ 049Z80 .for example in yarn or synthetic monofilament, but the servitudes of operation of the looms do not allow not to descend below a certain minimum diameter beyond which, in addition to the not insignificant risk of breakage of the thread, the fabric:
su becomes too loose and no longer has any "hold" due to the too fine the ply of said warp threads and their correlative flexibility which does not allow establishing a connection.
sufficiently narrow between them and the reinforcement wires a ~ rande:
nervousness and relatively large section, which are available .-weft and consist, for example, either of hair or animal hair spun either by mono- or multifilament synthesized continuous ticks.
We are therefore constrained, when we want to manufacture a reinforcing fabric which is light and flexible in the direction of the chain, to decrease not only the weight, that is to say, in fact,.
the section of the chain wires, but also to carry out a Similar decrease in the weft threads which leads to a decrease the nervousness of the latter. Now it is obviously.
desirable that the reinforcement fabric is not lightened;
not at the cost of a decrease in his nervousness qualities which help ensure and maintain the shape of the garment. .:.
In order to favor the attachment of a reinforcement fabric strong with the actual fabric of the garment or with its lining, "
and give an effect of light "volume" to the front of the garment, ~:
scraping of the mesh fabric has been carried out.
view of avoiding the addition of the felt layer usually sewn for this purpose on the plastron. However, it was found. .
because the results weren't satisfactory, in particular ment, of what, the frame constituted by son of nature to confer ~:
a certain nervousness in the tissue, lost part of this nervousness:

Vosité following the scraping operation.

. The reinforcement fabric described below remedies these. ~ i.
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disadvantages.
According to the present invention, a fabric is provided.
su especially intended for the manufacture of reinforcing faceplates for clothing, consists on the one hand by threads of laterally thin and / or flexible, on the other hand, by reinforcement wires strong, arranged in weft, here called "long weft threads", such that yarns showing great nervousness due to the importance relative to their cross-section and / or to the nature of their material stitutive, in which the web of warp threads occurs in the form of a knitted tablecloth, or basic knitting of the type comprising, as in "warp knitting", connecting threads connecting the columns of meshes and / or the meshes successive of the same column, while each weft thread long is, by a known arrangement of the knitting loom, inserted in the basic tricok between the web of the mesh loops and :::
said connecting wires, at the time of the formation of the rows:
successive stitches thereof, characterized in that it comprises further carries a plurality of so-called "short weft" wires, of ~:
relatively large section, suitable for operation scraping or the like in order to confer on said tissue a charac ~.
tere fluffy, inserted in the basic knitting during the ~;
fabric manufacture, by a known arrangement of the three-way loom ter, along a course with deep undulations, and in such a way that each of said wires passes, for a face of: ~
knitting considered, both above the mallel loops and above long weft threads.
According to the present invention it is also provided a method of making a scraped mesh fabric, the fabric comprising basic knitting yarns, short weft yarns ~:
corrugated and long weft yarns, the short weft yarn being suitable for being subjected to a scraping operation, characteristic the following operations are carried out: setting the pro-"

lO ~ 9Zi30 attack founder of a scraping device in such a way.
that scraping mainly concerns short weft threads and spares the basic knitting yarns and the weft yarns long, arrangement of said scraping device so that that it operates in a direction substantially perpendicular to the general direction of the short weft undulations, and grat-'' tage with said scraping device each side carrying short weft yarn.
Manufacturing is carried out on a three-way loom ter of the type known as "warp loom", with weft insertion, and it can, without inconvenience, be carried out with threads of very great finesse which constitute the knitted base and whose use could not be considered on a loom, while that a large section can, for the same weight of fabric, be made.
served to the weft threads which thus keep all their nervousness.
By the way..s, due to the fact that the children can be chosen with great finesse, the fabric su acquires greater flexibility in the "chain direction" for which this quality is sought after.
On the other hand, it should be noted that the warp yarns constituting the basic knitting each produce,.:
after each row of mesh has been formed, a real knot relatively rigid weft yarns of large cross-section.
This configuration notably includes two important results and unexpected. In fact: ~:
- on the one hand, these nodes constitute around the weft thread which they enclose and with which they cooperate, a.
real determining articulation, with respect to the two wires of adjacent weft, and even equal wire sections, a bond 30. much more flexible than canvas, woven on classic loom, this is probably from fact that in the latter, the chain wire undergoes only one undulation ~ 4 ~

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lation deviating little from the straight line and not giving it therefore no softening preload, while the connection of two rows of meshes between them is a real articu-lation formed between son having, moreover, undergone con-significant fold marks.
- on the other hand, the same nodes, by the action clamping they operate on the weft threads, establish, between these and the basic knitting, a very effective bond prohibiting any relative sliding and thus conferring, which -whatever the fineness of the yarns in the knitted base, excellent held in the fabric of which all the elements are, subject to e ~ -articulation fet mentioned above, firmly held in their relative position in relation to each other, the cohe-zion of the mesh fabric being further increased by the existence of Ei.ls of connection connecting between them the columns of meshes ad-underlying. On the contrary, and as explained above, the u use of very fine warp threads on a knitted loom tit, at least when the weft is relatively rigid and nervous se and of strong section, to the constitution of tissues the more cohesion and the necessary dress.
Finally, it should also be noted that these advantages add on the one hand that of a manufacturing carried out at speed much larger than on the looms and, eventually-In addition, in the very large widths allowed, without complications.
additional measures, by knitting fabrics, and, on the other part, still in relation to fabrications on the loom, that of a significant decrease in the number of incidents of brication.
According to a preferred embodiment, the wires of long weft extend between the web of the mesh loops and the tablecloth constituted by the short and transverse weft threads dirty to senC ~ fabric manufacturing, said weft son .,.

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short extending in the general direction of fabric manufacture, while their undulations extend transversely to this sense and above a plurality of mesh columns.
The invention will be clearly understood on reading the description which will follow made with reference to the attached drawing in which:
the single figure ~ represents fac, we sc ~ ematique a portion of the fabric according to the invention. -;
In the figure, 11 and 12 denote the wires of mesh texture, it being observed that, in the example, the basic fabric is a knitting of the type known as "warp knitting". The wires 11 and 12 are in principle relatively thin, even very purposes compared to the other threads which will be discussed below.
Were you given the knit weave shown here?
must be understood that there are as many children 11, and as many children 12, that of mesh columns; these columns have been referenced from 15 to 18.
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In each column of details, the details of each ran ~ ées svccessi ~ Your are connected ~ together, on the one hand, by the parts of the.season 11a of the wire 11 which connect deu ~ meshes consecutive ~ e ~ and, on the other hand, by the connecting parts 12a (or "thrown") of the wire 12 which run in ~ ig-zag between two colon-nes of adjacent meshes. ~ e-knitting which has just been described is performed on a loom of known type called "trarneur loom" ~:
that allows the insertion, between the threads of the knitting itself, of one or more ~ ieurs non knitted son to p.roprement speak.
According to the invention, it is thus inserted into the fabric on the one hand, so-called "long txame" threads, with a large nervousness and made, for example] .e, based on animal hair, synthetic or artificial di ~ fiber, or by a mono or multi ~ ilarnent con-tinu, or other ~ .ilé similar their con ~ er ~ nt some nerrosity, and, on the other hand, so-called weft threads short pxopres to be included in scraping or emery and thus confer on the fabric, in the example sux the kind of its lace, a slightly felted surface favoring the hanging on a adjacent fabric layer while giving the whole effect of slight volume, that is to say "u ~ e fuller hand", ~ the part of ~ being considered, which is, in pxincipe, the front of the garment-is lying.
It should be noted that, given the functions which are respectively allocated to them, the short tramline threads, and, in principle also, the fi] .s of very long, are son of strong ~ section, this characteristic being intended to allow, for the latter, obtaining the required nervousness, and for the first aptitude ~ u ~ r ~ ttage that one seeks to obtain.
~ es weft yarn l ~ ngue are available ~ és transversely ~ u direction of fabric ~ tion of knitting, that is to say transversely to the columns of ~ wings. all these long weft threads extend9 in the example shown, from the same side of knitting, that is to say: re .:,::;, ~ ' ~ 49Zl30 that, to observe it ~ 7aceur of the appended figure ~ they go to ~ des-above each of the 1lb, 12b mesh loops of the same row mesh; we will also notice that in the exe ~ ple there are a f: it of long weft by l ~ légé of meshes ~ es son 14 of long weft pass under the parts 11a of knitted yarn linking together the successive meshes of the same column of meshes and 12a relic ~ nt between them two columns of meshes adja- -centes, this provision realizing their maintenance in place of their integration into the knitted fabric thus formed.
~ es ~ they cut 13 weft are actually unwound in the perpendicular direction ~ that of the long weft threads, that is to tenth in reality in the sense of ~ n chain. This deYidage takes place, in the example considered, below a column of out of two stitches, but there could be one over each column of mallles or more.
~ e loom trade is set so that each short weft thread such as 13 ~ follows a deep path wavy in a direction substantially trans ~ ersale to that of columns of mesh and causing it to pass over a plura-ity of ~ wings in each row. ~ e tramming profession is equal-ment adjusted in a way such that each short weft thread passes, in the course ~ of this course ~ wavy, and as for the son of long weft, between the web of the mesh loops and the parts mesh wires such as 11a and 12a connecting together pectively the consecutive meshes of a same column or two ¢ adjacent mesh columns.
On the other hand, the profession is also regulated so that the ripples such as 13a, 13b of ~ it 13 pass over the long weft yarns 14, that is to say the web of said yarns of long weft is located between the ply of the loop ~ of stitches knitting and the tablecloth formed by the corrugations ~ 3a, 13b of ~
short weft yarn 13.

.: ..:. ~,. . :. ... . . ,. ~. "., 1 ~ 49280 He must be reminded that, as has been indicated in the nomenclatu-re of the Ligurians, the des.sin ~ attached to a character schematic pelmettant ~ e best representation ~ lta-tion of the principle However, it should be noted here that the ~ they of weft 14 actually have a sec ~ i.on as they are respecti..ve-joined together on the finished fabric, which means, on the one hand, that the mailie loops 11b, 12b have, after knitting tension, a length approximately equal to half the circumference -of said weft threads which they enclose in cooperation with the connecting parts 11a, 12a of the wires 11, 12, and of being share that the ~ they scratchable 13 retained by the same parts of link 11a, 12a, are constrained, due to their delection general transverse to the direction of the long weft yarns 1 ~, ~ stay above the tablecloth of contiguous wires constit.ée by the latter on which they are supported. It follows that leux scraping p ~ ut atre carried out without being affected to said long weft threads thus located at an inner level that of scrapable wires.
It should be noted at this stage of the description that the yarns 11, 12, of the basic knitting are rela-tivemen-t very ~ ins and flexible with respect to the short weft threads 13 and that we choose them sit so that they are; relatively smooth9 while ~ they are short weft so i i present a plu9 OR less woolly appearance suitable for promoting their scratching ; ulterior. As a result, parts such as 11a, 12a, knitting yarns tend to get bumped somewhat below of ni ~ upper water of the web of ~ weft co ~ lrte 13, this that protects them, at least ~ açon su ~ fisan-te, during the ope-subsequent ration of gratta ~ e or dlémérisage You must also specify ~ ul during this operation scraping tools ~ gra-ttage son-t disposed ~ so as to operate in a direction substantially perpendicular to the di-~ ~ 4 ~ Z ~ ~ -general rection of the undulations of the ~ il9 very short, it is ~
that is to say that this action takes place longitudinally or very little transversely to management. parts of rnaille's son such as 11ag 1 ~ a thus subtracting, to a large extent, these parts of wire to the action of scraping and to the decrease of resistance ~ ui could resu.lter.
It should also be clarified on this subject ~ that ~ according to the manufacturing process ~ of the scraped mesh fabric according to the -vention, the attacking pro ~ corruter of the scraping device health on the face carrying the tablecloth constituted by the scraped threads weft wounds ~ ourte eæt adjusted in such a way as scraping mainly interests short weft yarns and spares them yarns belonging to the basic knitting and, a fortiori, the yarns of ; txame longrue whose sheet is sQus- ~ acente to the previous one. ~ a tablecloth ~ connectable short weft son 13 protects a: Lnsi ~ ~ u during the scraping operation, both the long txame threads 1 ~ that the layer of coils of mesh son co ~ constituting the underlying part of the knitting.
The invention thus makes it possible to produce a fabric which allows:
so many consti-kill reinforcing breastplates for vêtement9 gén.é ~:
ralemenb consisting of a mesh fabric, comprising, on the one hand, a sheet of ~ they reinforce paxallel together.
and giving the fabric the necessary nervousness and, on the other hand, a 'tablecloth ~ they gra-ttés con ~ erating the face of ti.ssu co ~ stunned, the ~ ois de ~ qualities of attachment relative to the fabric of the clothing-ment or its lining and u ~ e ~ fet of slight volume allowing to get a fuller hand from the front of the garment and replace so adding a layer of felt.
I, e fabric thus formed retains the qualities of flexibility in the chain and cohesive sense of the woven fabric basic because the ~ it scratchable is, by nature, very little nervous and, moreover, appears according to a very inc parcoux: Linear compared _ g _. :

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to the direction ~ es ~ they long frame, so that the folding the fabric dar. the warp direction determines essentially.
a twist of said fi: L grat-table which9 da ~ s practice, does not give birth has no detectable elastic reaction.
~ use of tissue. mail.les made up ~ from a fi.l fin, to link together the two layers, respectively of tra ~ e long conferring nervosi ~ é and short weft conferring-t the volume and the quality of attachment ~ also has the advantage to allow the manufacture of a fabric thinner than the fabrics known tailors associated with u ~ e ~ eutrine, and returning to a pxix lower in terms of labor than time machines and]. its constituent products for a fabric of characteris-si.milaire ticks associated with a ~ eutrin.
It should also be underlined ~ eu, given a share the linear speed of fabric production of trades meur ~ which is much higher than those of conventional looms-siques for fabric ~ knitted, on the other hand, the absence of supplement ~
co co ~ plexity te ¢ ~ ique vis ~ vis a manufacturing in very large lar ~ eur, and in ~ in the gain made on the occupa-tion of workshop floors, which is roughly a third of the looms ~
be conventional, the part of the cost price constituted by the investment is significantly less in the case of a manufacturing according to the invention. . :
It should be emphasized that, depending on the armor chosen for basic knitting, it would also be possible to constitute such a fabric also having, on the other side, a sheet of scrapable wires inserted, then scraped, as just said above. ~ ssus.
~ e reinforcement fabric of which o ~ has just described a mode of realization per.met la`confection of faceplates which do not require ~
do not try to be sewn on a felt to achieve both the effect hanging on. the fabric ~ ue the slight flight ~ e which is considered - ~

~ 10 -,, 1 ~ L9280 co ~ me wisharJle for the front of the garment. He must be 9 in further ~ note that the set of ~ e classic tailor fabric associated with the felt is necessarily thicker than a plas-tron made from a -fabric according to the invltion and is pr ~ te as a result less bi ~ n ~ ~ in particular, to the fabrjcation of clothing ~
ment ~ summer and also clothing for da ~ es in which we are looking for greater flexibility ~ e new ren fabric ~ ort according to i ~ lvention perme ~
also to constitute pre ~ covered linings comprising ~ O in particular a reinforcement plastron -that defined above.
~ ien heard9 the embodiments which come to be described cannot be considered as limiting the scope of the invention, and many variants can be made without departing from the framework thereof ~ this.
This is, for example, that the wire des ~ tirlé ~ ~ tre subject to scraping after ~ fabrica-tion of the fabric, could be replaced by a present y-t, manufacturing, texture similar to that conferred on said audit after the operation scratching, the latter then becoming useless.
~ e new reinforcement fabric thus formed can be use in all cases where rerlfort fabrics are used classics known as "tailor cloth". ~ however, it must be considered dre, that. because of its qualities of nervosi-te9 ~ equal weight by compared to classic ren ~ ort fabrics, its use is t duly indicated in the case or after receiving on one at less of its faces, a coating of suitable adhesi ~ product, generally applied by points or lines, it is used as thermo-adhesive interlining.

Claims (5)

The realizations of the invention, about which a right exclusive ownership or lien is claimed, either finished as follows: 1. Fabric especially intended for the manufacture of reinforcing breastplates for clothing, consisting on the one hand by relatively fine and / or flexible warp threads and, on the other part, by reinforcing threads, arranged in a weft, here called "threads long weft ", such as threads with large nervo-sity due to the relative importance of their section and / or the na-of their constituent material, in which the web of threads chain is in the form of a knitted tablecloth, or tri-basic cost of the type comprising, such as in "warp knitting", connecting wires connecting the columns of mesh together and / or the successive meshes of the same column, while each that long weft yarn is, by an arrangement known in the art to knit, inserted in the basic knit between the tablecloths mesh keys and said connecting wires, at the time of mation of successive rows of stitches, characteristic se in that it further comprises a plurality of so-called "son short weft ", of relatively large section, suitable for subject to a scraping operation or the like with a view to confe rer said fabric a fluffy character, inserted in the knit base during the manufacture of the fabric, by a known arrangement of the knitting loom, along a course with undulations deep, and in such a way that each of said wires passes, for a knitting face considered, both above the loops of mesh than above the long weft threads. 2. mesh fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that the short weft threads pass under the connecting wires connecting the columns of meshes and / or meshes successive of the same column. 3. mesh fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that the short weft threads extend in the general direction of knitting, their undulations extending transversely to this direction and above a plura-bed of mesh columns while long weft yarns extend transversely to the knitting direction. 4. Mesh according to claim 1,2 or 3 characterized in that the long weft threads extend between the ply of the mesh loops and the ply formed by the short weft yarn. 5. Method of manufacturing a mesh fabric scraped, the fabric comprising threads of a basic knit, wavy short weft threads and long weft threads, wire of short weft being suitable for being subjected to an operation of scraping, characterized in that the following operations are carried out:
- adjustment of the attack depth of a device tif of scraping in such a way that scraping is of primary interest cipally the short weft yarns and spares the yarns of the basic knitting and long weft threads, - arrangement of said scraping device so that it operates in a substantially perceptible direction pendulum to the general direction of the ripples of the frame short, and - scraping with said scraping device each side carrying short weft threads.