EP0387117A1 - Heat-fusible textile for stiffening and method for its manufacture - Google Patents

Heat-fusible textile for stiffening and method for its manufacture Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0387117A1
EP0387117A1 EP90400484A EP90400484A EP0387117A1 EP 0387117 A1 EP0387117 A1 EP 0387117A1 EP 90400484 A EP90400484 A EP 90400484A EP 90400484 A EP90400484 A EP 90400484A EP 0387117 A1 EP0387117 A1 EP 0387117A1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
textile
layer
interlining
weft
fibers
Prior art date
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Granted
Application number
EP90400484A
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German (de)
French (fr)
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EP0387117B1 (en
Inventor
Pierre Groshens
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CHARGETEX 16
Lainiere de Picardie BC SAS
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Lainiere de Picardie SA
Lainiere de Picardie BC SAS
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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04H—MAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
    • D04H13/00—Other non-woven fabrics
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/02—Linings
    • A41D27/06—Stiffening-pieces
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • D04B21/16—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating synthetic threads
    • D04B21/165—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating synthetic threads with yarns stitched through one or more layers or tows, e.g. stitch-bonded fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04H—MAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
    • D04H1/00—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres
    • D04H1/40—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties
    • D04H1/44—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties the fleeces or layers being consolidated by mechanical means, e.g. by rolling
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04H—MAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
    • D04H1/00—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres
    • D04H1/40—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties
    • D04H1/44—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties the fleeces or layers being consolidated by mechanical means, e.g. by rolling
    • D04H1/46—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties the fleeces or layers being consolidated by mechanical means, e.g. by rolling by needling or like operations to cause entanglement of fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04H—MAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
    • D04H1/00—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres
    • D04H1/40—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties
    • D04H1/54—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties by welding together the fibres, e.g. by partially melting or dissolving
    • D04H1/541—Composite fibres, e.g. sheath-core, sea-island or side-by-side; Mixed fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04H—MAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
    • D04H1/00—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres
    • D04H1/40—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties
    • D04H1/54—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties by welding together the fibres, e.g. by partially melting or dissolving
    • D04H1/542—Adhesive fibres
    • D04H1/549—Polyamides
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04H—MAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
    • D04H1/00—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres
    • D04H1/40—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties
    • D04H1/54—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties by welding together the fibres, e.g. by partially melting or dissolving
    • D04H1/542—Adhesive fibres
    • D04H1/55—Polyesters
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/01—Surface features
    • D10B2403/011—Dissimilar front and back faces
    • D10B2403/0112—One smooth surface, e.g. laminated or coated
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/02—Cross-sectional features
    • D10B2403/024—Fabric incorporating additional compounds
    • D10B2403/0241—Fabric incorporating additional compounds enhancing mechanical properties
    • D10B2403/02411—Fabric incorporating additional compounds enhancing mechanical properties with a single array of unbent yarn, e.g. unidirectional reinforcement fabrics
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T428/00—Stock material or miscellaneous articles
    • Y10T428/24—Structurally defined web or sheet [e.g., overall dimension, etc.]
    • Y10T428/24033—Structurally defined web or sheet [e.g., overall dimension, etc.] including stitching and discrete fastener[s], coating or bond
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T442/00—Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
    • Y10T442/40—Knit fabric [i.e., knit strand or strip material]
    • Y10T442/494—Including a nonwoven fabric layer other than paper
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T442/00—Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
    • Y10T442/60—Nonwoven fabric [i.e., nonwoven strand or fiber material]
    • Y10T442/637—Including strand or fiber material which is a monofilament composed of two or more polymeric materials in physically distinct relationship [e.g., sheath-core, side-by-side, islands-in-sea, fibrils-in-matrix, etc.] or composed of physical blend of chemically different polymeric materials or a physical blend of a polymeric material and a filler material
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T442/00—Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
    • Y10T442/60—Nonwoven fabric [i.e., nonwoven strand or fiber material]
    • Y10T442/682—Needled nonwoven fabric
    • Y10T442/684—Containing at least two chemically different strand or fiber materials
    • Y10T442/688—Containing polymeric strand or fiber material

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a fusible textile intended for interlining and its manufacturing process.
  • It relates more particularly to fusible textiles intended for the interlining of breastplates, co-breastplates, breastplate reinforcements or breastplates.
  • Iron-on textiles incorporating a layer of nonwoven have great flexibility but do not offer sufficient nervousness.
  • the object of the present invention is therefore a fusible textile intended for the interlining which, while remaining light, has a large volume and at the same time a good nervousness.
  • a fusible textile intended for interlining of the type comprising a nonwoven textile layer, a weft, a knitted yarn ensuring the connection between the weft and the nonwoven textile layer, and a layer of adhesive. fusible.
  • the weft is composed of threads having undergone a strong retraction after their association with the non-woven textile layer.
  • the invention also relates to a process for manufacturing a fusible textile intended for interlining of the type in which a nonwoven textile web is formed, a "RACHEL" loom is made to bond this web with a weft by a sewing thread, the textile thus obtained is finished, a thermoadhesive coating layer is deposited. According to the invention, during finishing, the frame undergoes a strong shrinkage.
  • the fusible textile 1 intended for the interlining comprises a nonwoven textile layer 2.
  • this layer 2 The main role of this layer 2 is to give the fusible textile a large volume relative to its weight. It is produced from a sheet of fibers which is not very compacted, and possibly undergoes a minimum bonding to give just sufficient cohesion to the fibers in order to avoid the attachment of the surface fibers to the knitting members before its association with the weft 3 .
  • the weakly bound and therefore not very resistant fiber sheet will be transported without tension to the knitting front.
  • this bonding can be carried out by hot calendering.
  • the fibers of this layer 2 of nonwoven fabric are preferably made of two-component polyamide, one of them being capable of being melted and of ensuring binding by calendering.
  • This layer 2 of nonwoven fabric can also be produced with synthetic fibers, for example polyester or polyamide, or even with natural and artificial fibers (example Viscose). A weak bonding of this nonwoven layer can be achieved by needling.
  • the fusible textile intended for the interlining comprises a weft 3 made up of threads 6.
  • This weft 3 is preferably a straight weft.
  • a knitted yarn 4 provides the connection between the weft 3 and the non-woven textile layer 2. It can be multifilament.
  • the non-woven textile layer 2 constitutes a bottom which is pierced by the needles during knitting.
  • the knitting is preferably a knitted fabric and the weft 3 is preferably inserted during knitting.
  • the wefts 6 of weft 3 are capable of strong shrinkage during finishing.
  • This retraction decreasing the width of the nonwoven textile web gives it a volume greater than that which it had initially and therefore better relief.
  • This mode of association of a nonwoven web 2 and a retractable weft 3 makes it possible to obtain a fusible textile intended for the interlining having a controlled elasticity in the direction perpendicular to the weft 3 while it has good nervousness in the direction of the weft 3, while retaining an extensibility determined by the conditions of the shrinkage treatment.
  • Different yarns are known to have a high shrinkage capacity on finishing (high bulk).
  • These threads can be textured polyester or polyamide threads comprising continuous filaments to which it was given during their manufacture, according to a known technique, a crimp memory.
  • wires are momentarily fixed to their maximum length and when they are subjected to the finishing treatment, by the effect of temperature or of an adequate aqueous treatment, they take a new configuration giving the wires which incorporate them a dimension less than their initial dimension.
  • the rate of the weft retraction is at least 15%. It can reach 40%.
  • Yarns of retractable fibers for example High Bulk Acrylic
  • the presence of the weft 3 on one of the faces of the layer of nonwoven fabric provides the heat-bonding fabric of the invention with asymmetrical properties. Surprisingly, it has been found preferable, when using the fusible textile, to locate the weft 3 in contact with the drapery. The nervousness thus obtained is thus greater. For this reason, the weft 3 and the adhesive layer 5 are preferably on the same side of the nonwoven layer 2.
  • the retraction of the weft 3 decreasing the width of the nonwoven layer 2 therefore increases its average thickness which has been compressed during knitting and thereby its volume by forcing the fibers to a crimping effect under the action of the retraction.
  • the retraction of the frame 3 will be produced during the finishing.
  • other means can be envisaged to produce this retraction.
  • a fusible textile intended for interlining may have a density of 70 to 100 g per m2 for the production of co-plastrons or plastron reinforcements.
  • the layer of iron-on adhesive is produced by a point coating of 2 to 17 mesh for example [number of points of iron-on material in a square whose diagonal measures 2.4 cm (1 inch)].
  • the fusible material constituting the adhesive layer is any one of those commonly used to laminate the reinforcing fabrics on the textiles to receive them. It can be based on vinyl polymers, polyolefins, polyamides, etc.
  • These substances can be in the form of powder or paste.
  • the usual coating methods can be used.
  • the preferred method is that of coating by screen printing type printing.
  • a layer 2 of nonwoven fabric is formed.
  • the nonwoven layer 2 used is not very compacted and has a light binding.
  • This bonding can be carried out by hot calendering or else this non-woven textile layer can be weakly needled or pre-needled, for example with a density of penetration needles of 20 to cm 2.
  • the nonwoven layer consists of polyamide, polyester or even natural or artificial fibers.
  • a non-woven textile layer 2 is fed with a "RACHEL” loom also called “weft loom” with weft insertion.
  • a "RACHEL” loom is schematically represented in FIG. 3.
  • the weft 3 is deposited on the nonwoven layer 2.
  • the assembly is slightly compressed between the front 11 and the felling plate 12.
  • the compound needle 13 cooperates with known manner with the pass bars 14 for making the knitting.
  • the layer 2 of non-woven fabric is pierced by the needles 11 of the loom and is therefore inserted into the knitted fabric and held by it.
  • the loom inserts a weft 3 in the knitted fabric and therefore on the surface of the layer 2 of nonwoven fabric.
  • weft threads 6 undergo a shrinkage which decreasing their size leads to a decrease in the width of the textile produced therefore of the nonwoven layer 2 and increases its volume.
  • the textile is then subjected to conventional finishing operations, shrinkage can occur during these operations.
  • thermoadhesive coating layer is deposited on the textile.
  • This coating is preferably a coating by points and is carried out for example by an engraving cylinder of the screen printing type.
  • the invention allows the production of a fusible textile intended for the interlining whose volume is greater than that which would be naturally imparted by the layer of nonwoven fabric, the nervousness of which is largely determined by the properties of the weft threads.

Abstract

The invention concerns a heat-fusible textile (1) for stiffening and its method of manufacture. It comprises: - a layer of non-woven textile (2), - a weft (3) - a knitted thread (4) providing the connection between the weft (3) and the layer of non-woven textile (2) - a heat-fusible adhesive layer (5). According to the invention, the weft (3) is formed of threads (6) having undergone a high degree of shrinkage after its association with the textile layer. <IMAGE>

Description

L'invention concerne un textile thermocollant destiné à l'entoilage et son procédé de fabrication.The invention relates to a fusible textile intended for interlining and its manufacturing process.

Elle concerne plus particulièrement des textiles thermocollants destinés à l'entoilage des plastrons, co-plastrons, renforts de plastrons ou couvre-plastrons.It relates more particularly to fusible textiles intended for the interlining of breastplates, co-breastplates, breastplate reinforcements or breastplates.

Ces produits sont destinés à donner aux textiles ou draperies sur lesquels ils sont fixé et aux vêtements, le toucher, la souplesse, et la nervosité recherchés.These products are intended to give the textiles or draperies on which they are attached and to clothing, the feel, flexibility and nervousness sought.

Différentes propositions ont déjà été faites pour réaliser des textiles thermocollants destinés à l'entoilage incorporant une couche de textile non tissée.Various proposals have already been made for making fusible textiles intended for interlining incorporating a layer of nonwoven fabric.

Par exemple, selon le brevet FR-A-2 223 496, il est proposé de réaliser un voile comportant au coins une couche de fibres non tissées et non orientées et au moins une couche de fibres additionnelles présentant un haut degré d'orientation. Ces couches sont cousues ensemble par des fils synthétiques et leur enduction pour la réalisation d'un produit thermocollant est envisagé.For example, according to patent FR-A-2 223 496, it is proposed to produce a veil comprising at the corners a layer of non-woven and non-oriented fibers and at least one layer of additional fibers having a high degree of orientation. These layers are sewn together by synthetic threads and their coating for the production of a fusible product is envisaged.

Selon le document US-A-3 600 259, il est également proposé la réalisation d'un textile thermocollant constitué d'une couche de textile non tissée stabilisée par un tricot dont les points la traversent. Ce textile est ensuite revêtu d'une couche thermoadhésive. Les documents US-A-4 737 396 et US-A-4 450 196 décrivent également des produits de structure analogue.According to document US-A-3,600,259, it is also proposed to produce a fusible textile consisting of a layer of nonwoven textile stabilized by a knitted fabric, the points of which pass through it. This textile is then coated with a thermoadhesive layer. Documents US-A-4,737,396 and US-A-4,450,196 also describe products of similar structure.

Par ailleurs, on connaît également, selon par exemple le document FR-A-2 283 972, des tissus à mailles tramées enduits destinés à la réalisation de tissus de renfort, par exemple de plastrons.Furthermore, there is also known, according to for example document FR-A-2 283 972, coated woven mesh fabrics intended for the production of reinforcement fabrics, for example breastplates.

Les divers produits résultant des techniques "MALI" c'est-a-dire comportant un tricotage de fils de trame en nappe croisée, un tricotage de voile de fibres avec des fils (technique "MALIWATT") ou l'association de ces deux procédés ont été employés depuis de nombreuses années dans l'entoilage.The various products resulting from "MALI" techniques, that is to say comprising a knitting of weft threads in a cross-web, knitting of a veil of fibers with threads ("MALIWATT" technique) or the combination of these two methods have been used for many years in the interlining.

Les textiles thermocollants incorporant une couche de non tissé présentent une grande souplesse mais n'offrent pas une nervosité suffisante.Iron-on textiles incorporating a layer of nonwoven have great flexibility but do not offer sufficient nervousness.

Les tissus de renfort à mailles tramées sont les plus couramment utilisés. Ils procurent des résultats satisfaisants mais il est utile pour certaines applications d'augmenter leur volume et de diminuer leur poids.The most commonly used woven mesh reinforcement fabrics. They provide satisfactory results but it is useful for certain applications to increase their volume and reduce their weight.

L'objet de la présente invention est donc un textile thermocollant destiné à l'entoilage qui tout en restant léger présente un volume important et en même temps une bonne nervosité.The object of the present invention is therefore a fusible textile intended for the interlining which, while remaining light, has a large volume and at the same time a good nervousness.

A cet effet, il est proposé un textile thermocollant destiné à l'entoilage du type comportant une couche textile non tissée, une trame, un fil tricoté assurant la liaison entre la trame et la couche de textile non tissé, et une couche d'adhésif thermocollant. Selon l'invention, la trame est composée de fils ayant subis une forte rétraction postérieurement à leur association la couche textile non tissée.To this end, a fusible textile intended for interlining of the type is proposed comprising a nonwoven textile layer, a weft, a knitted yarn ensuring the connection between the weft and the nonwoven textile layer, and a layer of adhesive. fusible. According to the invention, the weft is composed of threads having undergone a strong retraction after their association with the non-woven textile layer.

L'invention concerne encore un procédé de fabrication d'un textile thermocollant destiné à l'entoilage du type dans lequel on constitue une nappe de textile non tissée, on réalise sur un métier "RACHEL" la liaison de cette nappe avec une trame par un fil de couture, on procède au finissage du textile ainsi obtenu, on réalise le dépôt d'une couche d'enduction thermoadhésive. Selon l'invention, lors du finissage, la trame subit une forte rétraction.The invention also relates to a process for manufacturing a fusible textile intended for interlining of the type in which a nonwoven textile web is formed, a "RACHEL" loom is made to bond this web with a weft by a sewing thread, the textile thus obtained is finished, a thermoadhesive coating layer is deposited. According to the invention, during finishing, the frame undergoes a strong shrinkage.

L'invention sera décrite plus en détail en référence aux figures, dans lesquelles :

  • - La figure 1 représente une vue schématique du textile thermocollant de l'invention vu de dessus.
  • - La figure 2 représente une vue schématique du textile thermocollant de l'invention vu en coupe.
  • - La figure 3 représente une vue schématique de la réalisation du textile de base sur un métier "RACHEL".
The invention will be described in more detail with reference to the figures, in which:
  • - Figure 1 shows a schematic view of the fusible textile of the invention seen from above.
  • - Figure 2 shows a schematic view of the fusible textile of the invention seen in section.
  • - Figure 3 shows a schematic view of the production of the basic textile on a loom "RACHEL".

Le textile thermocollant 1 destiné à l'entoilage comporte une couche textile 2 non tissée.The fusible textile 1 intended for the interlining comprises a nonwoven textile layer 2.

Cette couche 2 a principalement pour rôle de donner au textile thermocollant un volume important par rapport à son poids. Elle est réalisée à partir d'une nappe de fibres peu compactée, et subit éventuellement un liage minimum pour donner une cohésion aux fibres juste suffisante afin d'éviter l'accrochage des fibres de surface aux organes de tricotage avant son association à la trame 3.The main role of this layer 2 is to give the fusible textile a large volume relative to its weight. It is produced from a sheet of fibers which is not very compacted, and possibly undergoes a minimum bonding to give just sufficient cohesion to the fibers in order to avoid the attachment of the surface fibers to the knitting members before its association with the weft 3 .

La nappe de fibres faiblement liée et donc peu résistante, sera transportée sans tension jusqu'à la fronture de tricotage.The weakly bound and therefore not very resistant fiber sheet will be transported without tension to the knitting front.

Ce liage peut être réalisé par calandrage à chaud. Dans ce cas, les fibres de cette couche 2 de textile non tissée sont de préférence constituées de polyamide bicomposant, l'une d'entre elles étant susceptible d'être mise en fusion et d'assurer le liage par calandrage.This bonding can be carried out by hot calendering. In this case, the fibers of this layer 2 of nonwoven fabric are preferably made of two-component polyamide, one of them being capable of being melted and of ensuring binding by calendering.

Cette couche 2 de textile non tissée peut être également réalisée avec des fibres synthétiques, par exemple en polyester ou en polyamide, ou même avec des fibres naturelles et artificielles (exemple Viscose). Un faible liage de cette couche non tisséée peut être réalisé par un aiguilletage.This layer 2 of nonwoven fabric can also be produced with synthetic fibers, for example polyester or polyamide, or even with natural and artificial fibers (example Viscose). A weak bonding of this nonwoven layer can be achieved by needling.

Le textile thermocollant destiné à l'entoilage comporte une trame 3 constituée de fils 6. Cette trame 3 est de préférence une trame droite.The fusible textile intended for the interlining comprises a weft 3 made up of threads 6. This weft 3 is preferably a straight weft.

Un fil tricoté 4 assure la liaison entre la trame 3 et la couche textile non tissée 2. Il peut être multifilament.A knitted yarn 4 provides the connection between the weft 3 and the non-woven textile layer 2. It can be multifilament.

A cet effet, la couche de textile non tissée 2 constitue un fond qui est transpercé par les aiguilles lors du tricotage. Le tricot est de préférence un tricot à mailles jetées et la trame 3 est de préférence insérée lors du tricotage.For this purpose, the non-woven textile layer 2 constitutes a bottom which is pierced by the needles during knitting. The knitting is preferably a knitted fabric and the weft 3 is preferably inserted during knitting.

Selon une caractéristique importante de l'invention, les fils 6 de trame 3 sont capables d'une forte rétraction lors du finissage.According to an important characteristic of the invention, the wefts 6 of weft 3 are capable of strong shrinkage during finishing.

Cette rétraction diminuant la largeur de la nappe textile non tissée lui donne un volume supérieur à celui qu'elle avait initialement et donc un meilleur relief. Ce mode d'association d'une nappe 2 non tissée et d'une trame 3 rétractable permet d'obtenir un textile thermocollant destiné à l'entoilage ayant une élasticité contrôlée dans le sens perpendiculaire à la trame 3 alors qu'il présente une bonne nervosité dans le sens de la trame 3, tout en conservant une extensibilité déterminée par les conditions du traitement de rétraction.This retraction decreasing the width of the nonwoven textile web gives it a volume greater than that which it had initially and therefore better relief. This mode of association of a nonwoven web 2 and a retractable weft 3 makes it possible to obtain a fusible textile intended for the interlining having a controlled elasticity in the direction perpendicular to the weft 3 while it has good nervousness in the direction of the weft 3, while retaining an extensibility determined by the conditions of the shrinkage treatment.

Différents fils sont connus comme ayant une forte capacité de rétraction au finissage (high bulk). Ces fils peuvent être des fils texturés de polyester ou de polyamide comprenant des filaments continus auxquels il a été donné lors de leur fabrication, selon une technique connue, une mémoire de frisure.Different yarns are known to have a high shrinkage capacity on finishing (high bulk). These threads can be textured polyester or polyamide threads comprising continuous filaments to which it was given during their manufacture, according to a known technique, a crimp memory.

Ces fils sont momentanément fixés à leur longueur maximum et lorsqu'ils sont soumis au traitement de finissage, par l'effet de la température ou d'un traitement aqueux adéquat, ils prennent une nouvelle configuration donnant aux fils qui les incorporent une dimension inférieure à leur dimension initiale. De préférence, le taux de la rétraction de la trame est au moins de 15%. Il peut atteindre 40%.These wires are momentarily fixed to their maximum length and when they are subjected to the finishing treatment, by the effect of temperature or of an adequate aqueous treatment, they take a new configuration giving the wires which incorporate them a dimension less than their initial dimension. Preferably, the rate of the weft retraction is at least 15%. It can reach 40%.

Des fils de fibres rétractables (par exemple Acrylique High Bulk) peuvent être aussi utilisés.Yarns of retractable fibers (for example High Bulk Acrylic) can also be used.

La présence de la trame 3 sur l'une des faces de la couche de textile non tissée procure au textile thermocollant de l'invention des propriétés disymétriques. De manière surprenante, il a été constaté préférable, lors de l'utilisation du textile thermocollant, de situer la trame 3 au contact de la draperie. La nervosité ainsi obtenue est ainsi supérieure. Pour cette raison, la trame 3 et la couche d'adhésif 5 sont de préférence du même côté de la couche 2 non tissée.The presence of the weft 3 on one of the faces of the layer of nonwoven fabric provides the heat-bonding fabric of the invention with asymmetrical properties. Surprisingly, it has been found preferable, when using the fusible textile, to locate the weft 3 in contact with the drapery. The nervousness thus obtained is thus greater. For this reason, the weft 3 and the adhesive layer 5 are preferably on the same side of the nonwoven layer 2.

La rétraction de la trame 3 diminuant la largeur de la couche 2 non tissée augmente donc son épaisseur moyenne qui a été comprimée lors du tricotage et par là son volume en obligeant les fibres à un effet de frisure sous l'action de la rétraction. De manière préférée, la rétraction de la trame 3 sera produite lors du finissage. Toutefois, d'autres moyens peuvent être envisagés pour produire cette rétraction.The retraction of the weft 3 decreasing the width of the nonwoven layer 2 therefore increases its average thickness which has been compressed during knitting and thereby its volume by forcing the fibers to a crimping effect under the action of the retraction. Preferably, the retraction of the frame 3 will be produced during the finishing. However, other means can be envisaged to produce this retraction.

A titre d'exemple, un textile thermocollant destiné à l'entoilage, selon l'invention peut avoir une densité de 70 à 100g par m² pour la réalisation de co-plastrons ou de renforts de plastron. La couche d'adhésif thermocollant est réalisée par une enduction par points de 2 à 17 mesh par exemple [nombre de points de matière thermocollante dans un carré dont la diagonale mesure 2,4cm (1 inch)]. La matière thermocollante constituant la couche d'adhésif est l'une quelconque de celles couramment utilisées pour assurer le contrecollage des tissus de renfort sur les textiles devant les recevoir. Elle peut être à base de polymers vinyliques, de polyoléfines, de polyamides,...By way of example, a fusible textile intended for interlining, according to the invention may have a density of 70 to 100 g per m² for the production of co-plastrons or plastron reinforcements. The layer of iron-on adhesive is produced by a point coating of 2 to 17 mesh for example [number of points of iron-on material in a square whose diagonal measures 2.4 cm (1 inch)]. The fusible material constituting the adhesive layer is any one of those commonly used to laminate the reinforcing fabrics on the textiles to receive them. It can be based on vinyl polymers, polyolefins, polyamides, etc.

Ces substances peuvent être sous forme de poudre ou de pâte. Les méthodes habituelles d'enduction sont utilisables. La méthode préférée est celle de l'enduction par impression de type sérigraphie.These substances can be in the form of powder or paste. The usual coating methods can be used. The preferred method is that of coating by screen printing type printing.

Selon le procédé de l'invention, on constitue tout d'abord une couche 2 de textile non tissée.According to the method of the invention, firstly a layer 2 of nonwoven fabric is formed.

De nombreuses méthodes de fabrication de nappes textiles non tissées sont en elles-mêmes connues ; l'une quelconque d'entre elles peut être utilisée pour réaliser la couche de textile non tissée du textile thermocollant de l'invention.Many methods for manufacturing nonwoven textile tablecloths are known per se; any one of them can be used to make the nonwoven fabric layer of the fusible fabric of the invention.

La couche 2 non tissée utilisée est peu compactée et elle présente un léger liage.The nonwoven layer 2 used is not very compacted and has a light binding.

Ce liage peut être réalisé par calandrage à chaud ou encore cette couche textile non tissée peut être faiblement aiguilletée ou préaiguilletée, par exemple avec une densité d'aiguilles de pénétration de 20 au cm².This bonding can be carried out by hot calendering or else this non-woven textile layer can be weakly needled or pre-needled, for example with a density of penetration needles of 20 to cm 2.

La couche non tissée est constituée de fibres de polyamide, de polyester ou encore de fibres naturelles ou artificielles.The nonwoven layer consists of polyamide, polyester or even natural or artificial fibers.

On alimente avec cette couche 2 textile non tissée un métier "RACHEL" encore appelé "métier chaîne" à insertion de trame.A non-woven textile layer 2 is fed with a "RACHEL" loom also called "weft loom" with weft insertion.

Un métier "RACHEL" est schématiquement représenté sur la figure 3. La trame 3 est déposée sur la couche non tissée 2. L'ensemble est légèrement comprimé entre la fronture 11 et la plaque d'abattage 12. L'aiguille compound 13 coopère de manière connue avec les barres à passettes 14 pour réaliser le tricot.A "RACHEL" loom is schematically represented in FIG. 3. The weft 3 is deposited on the nonwoven layer 2. The assembly is slightly compressed between the front 11 and the felling plate 12. The compound needle 13 cooperates with known manner with the pass bars 14 for making the knitting.

Ainsi, la couche 2 de textile non tissée est transpercée par les aiguilles 11 du métier et se trouve donc insérée dans le tricot et maintenue par celui-ci. De plus, le métier insère une trame 3 dans le tricot et donc à la surface de la couche 2 de textile non tissée.Thus, the layer 2 of non-woven fabric is pierced by the needles 11 of the loom and is therefore inserted into the knitted fabric and held by it. In addition, the loom inserts a weft 3 in the knitted fabric and therefore on the surface of the layer 2 of nonwoven fabric.

Postérieurement à cette association, les fils de trame 6 subissent une rétraction qui diminuant leur dimension entraîne une diminution de la largeur du textile réalisé donc de la couche 2 non tissée et augmente son volume.After this association, the weft threads 6 undergo a shrinkage which decreasing their size leads to a decrease in the width of the textile produced therefore of the nonwoven layer 2 and increases its volume.

Le textile est alors soumis aux opérations classiques de finissage, la rétraction peut se produire au cours de ces opérations.The textile is then subjected to conventional finishing operations, shrinkage can occur during these operations.

On réalise ensuite sur le textile le dépôt d'une couche d'enduction thermoadhésive. Cette enduction est de préférence une enduction par points et est réalisée par exmple par un cylindre de gravure du type sérigraphie.Next, a thermoadhesive coating layer is deposited on the textile. This coating is preferably a coating by points and is carried out for example by an engraving cylinder of the screen printing type.

L'invention permet la réalisation d'un textile thermocollant destiné à l'entoilage dont le volume est supérieur à celui qui lui serait naturellement conféré par la couche de textile non tissée, dont la nervosité est en grande partie déterminée par les propriétés des fils de trame.The invention allows the production of a fusible textile intended for the interlining whose volume is greater than that which would be naturally imparted by the layer of nonwoven fabric, the nervousness of which is largely determined by the properties of the weft threads.

Claims (16)

1. Textile d'entoilage thermocollant (1) destiné à l'entoilage du type comportant :
. une couche de textile non tissée (2),
. une trame (3),
. un fil tricoté (4) assurant la liaison entre la trame (3) et la couche de textile non tissé (2),
. une couche d'adhésif (5) thermocollant,
caractérisé en ce que la trame (3) est composée de fils (6) ayant subit une forte rétraction postérieurement à son association à la couche textile.1. Fusible interlining textile (1) intended for interlining of the type comprising:
. a layer of non-woven fabric (2),
. a frame (3),
. a knitted yarn (4) ensuring the connection between the weft (3) and the layer of nonwoven fabric (2),
. a layer of heat-adhesive adhesive (5),
characterized in that the weft (3) is composed of son (6) having undergone a strong retraction after its association with the textile layer. 2. Textile d'entoilage selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que la trame (3) et la couche d'adhésif (5) sont du même côté de la couche non tissée (2).2. interlining textile according to claim 1, characterized in that the weft (3) and the adhesive layer (5) are on the same side of the nonwoven layer (2). 3. Textile d'entoilage selon l'une quelconques des revendications 1 ou 2, caractérisé en ce que le taux de rétraction de la trame (3) est compris entre 15% et 40%.3. interlining textile according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the rate of retraction of the weft (3) is between 15% and 40%. 4. Textile d'entoilage selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 et 3, caractérisé en ce que les fils (6) de trame (3) sont capables d'une forte rétraction sous l'effet de la chaleur.4. interlining textile according to any one of claims 1 and 3, characterized in that the son (6) weft (3) are capable of a strong shrinkage under the effect of heat. 5. Textile d'entoilage selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 4, caractérisé en ce que les fils (6) de trame (3) sont en polyester.5. interlining textile according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the son (6) weft (3) are polyester. 6. Textile d'entoilage selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 4, caractérisé en ce que les fils (6) de trame (3) sont en polyamide.6. interlining textile according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the son (6) weft (3) are made of polyamide. 7. Textile d'entoilage selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 6, caractérisé en ce que les fils (6) de trame (3) sont de fils à mémoire de frisure.7. interlining textile according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the son (6) weft (3) are crimped memory son. 8. Textile d'entoilage selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 7, caractérisé en ce que la couche de textile non tissée (2) est peu compacte et est partiellement liée par calandrage à chaud avant la fabrication du textile thermocollant (1).8. interlining textile according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the non-woven textile layer (2) is not very compact and is partially bonded by hot calendering before the manufacture of the fusible textile (1) . 9. Textile d'entoilage selon la revendication 8, caractérisé en ce que les fibres de la couche textile non tissée (2) sont constituées de polyamide bicomposant.9. interlining textile according to claim 8, characterized in that the fibers of the non-woven textile layer (2) consist of two-component polyamide. 10. Textile d'entoilage selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 7, caractérisé en ce que la couche textile non tissée (2) est faiblement aiguilletée.10. Interlining textile according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the non-woven textile layer (2) is weakly needled. 11. Textile d'entoilage selon la revendication 11, caractérisé en ce que les fibres de la couche textile non tissée (2) sont en polyamide.11. interlining textile according to claim 11, characterized in that the fibers of the non-woven textile layer (2) are made of polyamide. 12. Textile d'entoilage selon la revendication 10, caractérisé en ce que les fibres de la couche textile non tissée (2) sont en polyester.12. Interlining textile according to claim 10, characterized in that the fibers of the non-woven textile layer (2) are made of polyester. 13. Textile d'entoilage selon la revendication 10, caractérisé en ce que les fibres de la couche textile non tissée (2) sont des fibres naturelles.13. interlining textile according to claim 10, characterized in that the fibers of the non-woven textile layer (2) are natural fibers. 14. Textile d'entoilage selon la revendication 10, caractérisé en ce que les fibres de la couche textile non tissée (2) sont des fibres artificielles (par exemple de viscose).14. interlining textile according to claim 10, characterized in that the fibers of the non-woven textile layer (2) are artificial fibers (for example viscose). 15. Textile d'entoilage selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 14, caractérisé en ce que le fil (4) tricoté est un fil synthétique multifilaments.15. interlining textile according to any one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that the knitted yarn (4) is a multifilament synthetic yarn. 16. Procédé de fabrication d'un textile thermollant (1) destiné à l'entoilage du type dans lequel :
. on constitue un nappe de textile non tissée,
. on réalise sur un métier "RACHEL" la liaison de cette nappe avec une trame par un fil de tricot couture,
. on procède au finissage du textile ainsi obtenu,
. on réalise le dépôt d'une couche d'enduction thermoadhésive,
caractérisé en ce que lors du finissage, la trame subit une forte rétraction.16. Method for manufacturing a thermo-adhesive textile (1) intended for stabilizer of the type in which:
. a nonwoven textile web is formed,
. we realize on a "RACHEL" loom the connection of this tablecloth with a weft by a stitching knitting yarn,
. the textile thus obtained is finished,
. a thermoadhesive coating layer is deposited,
characterized in that during finishing, the frame undergoes a strong shrinkage.
EP90400484A 1989-03-08 1990-02-21 Heat-fusible textile for stiffening and method for its manufacture Expired - Lifetime EP0387117B1 (en)

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FR8903045 1989-03-08
FR8903045A FR2644043B1 (en) 1989-03-08 1989-03-08 THERMAL-ADHESIVE TEXTILE FOR INTERLAYING AND ITS MANUFACTURING METHOD

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EP0933032A1 (en) * 1998-01-28 1999-08-04 Lainiere De Picardie Shirt collar reinforcing textile interlining or similar piece

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Publication number Publication date
FR2644043B1 (en) 1992-03-20
DE69000144D1 (en) 1992-07-23
GR3005308T3 (en) 1993-05-24
JPH0788615B2 (en) 1995-09-27
EP0387117B1 (en) 1992-06-17
DE69000144T2 (en) 1992-12-24
US5194320A (en) 1993-03-16
CA2011687A1 (en) 1990-09-08
FR2644043A1 (en) 1990-09-14
DK0387117T3 (en) 1992-10-05
JPH02277865A (en) 1990-11-14
ES2033161T3 (en) 1993-03-01
CA2011687C (en) 1994-09-06
ATE77213T1 (en) 1992-07-15

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