US3152620A - Woven narrow web with ornamental selvage - Google Patents

Woven narrow web with ornamental selvage Download PDF

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US3152620A
US3152620A US226349A US22634962A US3152620A US 3152620 A US3152620 A US 3152620A US 226349 A US226349 A US 226349A US 22634962 A US22634962 A US 22634962A US 3152620 A US3152620 A US 3152620A
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selvage
fabric
shed
finger
loop
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US226349A
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Carl F Libby
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Priority to FR8768A priority patent/FR1369185A/en
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D5/00Selvedges
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D35/00Smallware looms, i.e. looms for weaving ribbons or other narrow fabrics

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  • Weft yarns may be thrust through the shed from one or both sides according as one or two weft-laying fingers are employed.
  • a loom having but one weft-laying finger is hereinafter described.
  • the picks are successive loops of weft yarn which are thrust through the shed and the end end of each loop is caught and retained at the other edge of the fabric while the finger is retracted and the shed changes.
  • a knitting needle is usually employed to catch the end of each loop from the weft-laying finger and to knit it through the end of the previous loop then on the shank of the needle.
  • Each loop of weft yarn (pick) which is thrust through the shed consists of an inward leg and an outward leg.
  • a pin is located at the near end of the fell of the web in such a way that when the finger is retracted from the shed, the weft yarn is carried about the pin as the finger enters the shed again after the change of shed.
  • FIGURE 1 is a plan view of a sample strip of narrow webbing having an ornamental selvage embodying the invention
  • FIGURE 2 is a fragmentary diagrammatic view of the arrangement of warp and weft yarns in the sample shown in FIGURE 1;
  • FIGURE 3 is a partial plan view of a narrow web loom indicating how an ornamental selvage is formed in the weaving operation.
  • FIGURE 1 shows an undulating or scalloped contour with recurring creasts 20 and 22. As hereinafter described, the weaving is done in such a way that one or more edge warp yarns 24 follow the contour of the selvage, the undulations having lesser amplitudes.
  • FIG- URE 2 Three such warp yarns are illustrated in FIG- URE 2 but the number thereof may be one or more as desired.
  • These contoured warp yarns 24 stiffen the projecting loops of weft yarn and support the scallops against deformation during laundering. Without such support, projecting loops tend to tangle during laundering and to lose the original distinctive contour of the selvage.
  • Patent No. 2,180,831 illustrates a narrow web of this type woven by projecting loops through the shed from both sides thereof in alternation.
  • the loom illustrated herein is designed to thrust successive loops through the warp shed from one side only thereof, the shed being changed after each operation of the weft-laying finger 30.
  • the weft yarn or filling F comes from a suitable source through a guide 32 to a hole 34 in the free end of the finger 30 and thence to the fell of the fabric which is being woven.
  • a sweeping movement into and out of the shed is given to the end of the finger 30 by a crank arm 36 to which the finger is pivotally attached at 38 near its other end.
  • the crank arm 36 swings around an axis 40, the finger slides back and forth through a guide member 42 which turns about a vertical axis.
  • an eccentric 44 turning about the axis 40 reciprocates the arm 46 having a pin 48 riding in a slot 50 in a lever 52.
  • the lever rocks about a pivot 54 at one end, the other end being connected to a knitting needle 60 which is located in position to catch the end of the loop of weft yarn F from the end of the finger 30 when the loop is projected through the shed.
  • the loop is retained in the shed and the extremity thereof is knitted through the extremity of the previous loop of weft then on the shank of the needle 60.
  • the shed changes to bind the loop of weft yarn which has just been laid, and the finger starts to project the next loop through the shed. Since the projection of a loop of yarn through the shed requires that the yarn slide quickly through the hole 34, the frictional drag of the yarn pulls on the portion leading to the hole from the selvage on the near side of the fabric, that is, the side from which the finger is projected through the shed. This pull tends to draw the selvage inward.
  • the yarn at the fell of the fabric is made to pass around a vertical pin 62, thus forming a reverse loop 16 (FIGURE 2) when the finger 30 moves into the warp shed.
  • the pin 62 is lifted clear of the reverse loop 16 and is then moved forward and downward to catch the weft yarn for the next reverse loop as the finger leaves the shed and starts to reenter it. If these are the only movements of the pin 62, the selvage on the near side is straight, but by moving the pin 62 horizontally, the lengths of the reverse loops of weft yarn can be varied.
  • the forward and rearward and up and down movements of the pin 62 are caused by an eccentric on a shaft 64 revolving in an eccentric strap 66 to which is attached the arm 68 carrying the pin 62.
  • the shaft 64 revolves in timed relation with the other moving parts of the loom.
  • Sidewise horizontal movements of the pin 62 are caused by a cam 70 on a wheel 72 rotated by a shaft 74.
  • a cam follower 76 is held against the cam by a spring 73 attached to an arm 80 which carries the cam follower.
  • a rod 82 connects the arm 80 and the arm 68. In the mechanism shown on the drawing the wheel 72 turns slowly so that the pin 62 is shifted by small increments with each pick of the loom.
  • edge warp yarns 24 come from the harness (not shown) at an angle to the other warp yarns so that when the reverse loops 16 are lengthened by outward movement of the pin 62, the edge warps 24 follow the outward movement to a lesser extent and are locked in place by changes of the shed. This results in reinforcement of the extended reverse loops 16 by the edge warps 24 as illustrated in FIGURE 2.
  • the heddles can be operated to raise and lower the edge warp yarns 24 less frequently than the warp yarns in the body of the fabric when the fabric is being woven at the troughs 22 so that the under-and-over frequency of the edge warp yarns with respect to the weft yarns is less at the troughs 22 than at the crests 20.
  • An example of this is indicated in FIGURE 2.
  • edge warp yarns 24 in the extended reverse loops 16 reinforce these loops and help to maintain the contour of the selvage when the fabric is laundered. Without such reinforcement and support, the longer reverse loops are easily crushed and tangled in the laundering process so that the ornamental contour of the selvage is difiicult to restore.
  • a selvaged fabric having a warp some of the yarns of which are edge warps, said fabric having a weft in which each pick consists of a single continuous thread doubled to form a loop which extends across the fabric and ends at one of the selvages of the fabric, the other selvage being composed of reverse loops of the same single thread extending different distances from the median of the fabric, the legs of each said reverse loop being in different picks.
  • a selvaged woven fabric consisting of warp yarns some of which are edge warps and weft yarns, the warp yarns extending under and over even numbers of weft yarns, said weft yarns forming loops at one of the selvages extending different distances from the median of the fabric to give said selvage a scalloped contour with alternate crests and troughs, at least one of the edge warps following the contour of said selvage the under and over frequency of said edge warps at the troughs being less than at the crests.

Description

Oct. 13, 1964 c. F LIBBY 3,152,620
WOVEN NARROW was WITH ORNAMENTAL. SELVAGE Filed Sept. 26, 1962 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 FIG. I
FIG. 2
INVENTOR. CARL F. LIBBY ATTORNEYS Oct. 13, 1964 c. F. LlBBY WOVEN NARROW WEB WITH ORNAMENTAL SELVAGE Filed Sept. 26, 1962 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 FIG.3
INVENTOR. CARL F. LIBBY ATTORNEYS United States Patent 3,152,620 WOVEN NARROW WEB WITH ORNAMENTAL SELVAGE Carl F. Libby, Stoughton, Mass, assignor to John D.
Riordan, Hopkinton, and Gertrude C. Libby, Stoughton, Mass, trustees of the Libby family trusts Filed Sept. 26, 1962, Ser. No. 226,349 7 Claims. (Cl. 139384) This invention is a continuation-in-part of my copending application Serial No. 205,298, filed June 26, 1962, now U. S. Patent No. 3,126,920, issued March 31, 1964, for Mechanism for Making a Fancy Selvage on Narrow Webbing. The invention relates to narrow webs such as are woven by thrusting successive loops of weft yarn through the warp shed after each change of the shed as shown, for example, in US. Patent No. 2,180,831, granted November 21, 1939. Weft yarns may be thrust through the shed from one or both sides according as one or two weft-laying fingers are employed. By way of example, a loom having but one weft-laying finger is hereinafter described. In weaving this type of web with one weft-laying finger, the picks are successive loops of weft yarn which are thrust through the shed and the end end of each loop is caught and retained at the other edge of the fabric while the finger is retracted and the shed changes. A knitting needle is usually employed to catch the end of each loop from the weft-laying finger and to knit it through the end of the previous loop then on the shank of the needle. Each loop of weft yarn (pick) which is thrust through the shed consists of an inward leg and an outward leg. These legs lie side by side at the fell of the fabric when the loop is beaten up by the reeds and they are locked there by the change of shed. The next loop of weft yarn is then projected through the shed by the finger, the yarn from the outward leg of the previous loop turning sharply backward to enter the shed as the inward leg of the new loop. These reverse bends of the weft yarn are loops the legs of each of which are the outward leg of one pick and the inward leg of the next pick. These reverse bends or loops form the selvage on the side of the web adjacent to the fingeroperating mechanism. To prevent the movements of the finger into the shed from pulling the reverse bends in toward the center of the web, which would be apt to cause the margin of the web to wrinkle or pucker, a pin is located at the near end of the fell of the web in such a way that when the finger is retracted from the shed, the weft yarn is carried about the pin as the finger enters the shed again after the change of shed. By shifting the pin successively toward or from the web, the location of successive reverse bends of the weft yarn can be varied so that the resulting shape of the selvage can be varied with the formation of an ornamental design such, for example, as a scalloped edge. By the use of such apparatus for forming an ornamental selvage, some of the warp threads adjacent to the selvage follow to some extent the outward displacement of the reverse bends and thus support the loops formed by the reverse bends.
For a more complete understanding of the invention, reference may be had to the following description thereof, and to the drawings, of which FIGURE 1 is a plan view of a sample strip of narrow webbing having an ornamental selvage embodying the invention;
FIGURE 2 is a fragmentary diagrammatic view of the arrangement of warp and weft yarns in the sample shown in FIGURE 1; and
FIGURE 3 is a partial plan view of a narrow web loom indicating how an ornamental selvage is formed in the weaving operation.
"'ice A piece 10 of woven fabric embodying the invention is shown in FIGURE 1. This fabric is composed of warp yarns 12 and weft yarns 14 as indicated in FIGURE 2. The fabric is selvaged, one of the selvages being formed by loops 16 of filling or weft yarn which extend different distances from the longitudinal median of the fabric with the result that the selvage is contoured. In machine production the pattern of the contour will ordinarily be repetitive. FIGURE 1 shows an undulating or scalloped contour with recurring creasts 20 and 22. As hereinafter described, the weaving is done in such a way that one or more edge warp yarns 24 follow the contour of the selvage, the undulations having lesser amplitudes. Three such warp yarns are illustrated in FIG- URE 2 but the number thereof may be one or more as desired. These contoured warp yarns 24 stiffen the projecting loops of weft yarn and support the scallops against deformation during laundering. Without such support, projecting loops tend to tangle during laundering and to lose the original distinctive contour of the selvage.
The present invention is hereinafter described in terms of narrow fabrics which can be made by projecting successive doubled loops of weft yarn through the warp shed from one or both sides of the shed so that the Warp yarns extend under and over even numbers of weft yarns. Patent No. 2,180,831 illustrates a narrow web of this type woven by projecting loops through the shed from both sides thereof in alternation. The loom illustrated herein is designed to thrust successive loops through the warp shed from one side only thereof, the shed being changed after each operation of the weft-laying finger 30. The weft yarn or filling F comes from a suitable source through a guide 32 to a hole 34 in the free end of the finger 30 and thence to the fell of the fabric which is being woven. A sweeping movement into and out of the shed is given to the end of the finger 30 by a crank arm 36 to which the finger is pivotally attached at 38 near its other end. As the crank arm 36 swings around an axis 40, the finger slides back and forth through a guide member 42 which turns about a vertical axis. In timed relation with the movements of the finger 30, an eccentric 44 turning about the axis 40 reciprocates the arm 46 having a pin 48 riding in a slot 50 in a lever 52. The lever rocks about a pivot 54 at one end, the other end being connected to a knitting needle 60 which is located in position to catch the end of the loop of weft yarn F from the end of the finger 30 when the loop is projected through the shed. As the finger 30 is being thereafter retracted, the loop is retained in the shed and the extremity thereof is knitted through the extremity of the previous loop of weft then on the shank of the needle 60. When the finger 30 has been withdrawn from the shed the shed changes to bind the loop of weft yarn which has just been laid, and the finger starts to project the next loop through the shed. Since the projection of a loop of yarn through the shed requires that the yarn slide quickly through the hole 34, the frictional drag of the yarn pulls on the portion leading to the hole from the selvage on the near side of the fabric, that is, the side from which the finger is projected through the shed. This pull tends to draw the selvage inward. To prevent this, the yarn at the fell of the fabric is made to pass around a vertical pin 62, thus forming a reverse loop 16 (FIGURE 2) when the finger 30 moves into the warp shed. When the finger is being retracted, the pin 62 is lifted clear of the reverse loop 16 and is then moved forward and downward to catch the weft yarn for the next reverse loop as the finger leaves the shed and starts to reenter it. If these are the only movements of the pin 62, the selvage on the near side is straight, but by moving the pin 62 horizontally, the lengths of the reverse loops of weft yarn can be varied. The forward and rearward and up and down movements of the pin 62 are caused by an eccentric on a shaft 64 revolving in an eccentric strap 66 to which is attached the arm 68 carrying the pin 62. The shaft 64 revolves in timed relation with the other moving parts of the loom. Sidewise horizontal movements of the pin 62 are caused by a cam 70 on a wheel 72 rotated by a shaft 74. A cam follower 76 is held against the cam by a spring 73 attached to an arm 80 which carries the cam follower. A rod 82 connects the arm 80 and the arm 68. In the mechanism shown on the drawing the wheel 72 turns slowly so that the pin 62 is shifted by small increments with each pick of the loom. This results in a wavy or scalloped selvage on the near side of the fabric. The edge warp yarns 24 come from the harness (not shown) at an angle to the other warp yarns so that when the reverse loops 16 are lengthened by outward movement of the pin 62, the edge warps 24 follow the outward movement to a lesser extent and are locked in place by changes of the shed. This results in reinforcement of the extended reverse loops 16 by the edge warps 24 as illustrated in FIGURE 2. In some cases, in order to avoid bunching at the troughs 22 of a scalloped selvage, the heddles (not shown) can be operated to raise and lower the edge warp yarns 24 less frequently than the warp yarns in the body of the fabric when the fabric is being woven at the troughs 22 so that the under-and-over frequency of the edge warp yarns with respect to the weft yarns is less at the troughs 22 than at the crests 20. An example of this is indicated in FIGURE 2.
The edge warp yarns 24 in the extended reverse loops 16 reinforce these loops and help to maintain the contour of the selvage when the fabric is laundered. Without such reinforcement and support, the longer reverse loops are easily crushed and tangled in the laundering process so that the ornamental contour of the selvage is difiicult to restore.
I claim:
1. A selvaged fabric having a warp some of the yarns of which are edge warps, said fabric having a weft in which each pick consists of a single continuous thread doubled to form a loop which extends across the fabric and ends at one of the selvages of the fabric, the other selvage being composed of reverse loops of the same single thread extending different distances from the median of the fabric, the legs of each said reverse loop being in different picks.
2. A fabric as described in claim 1, in which said other selvage is smoothly contoured.
3. A fabric as described in claim 1, in which said other selvage is smoothly contoured with a repetitive pattern.
4. A fabric as described in claim 1, in which at least one of the edge warps follows the contour of said other selvage.
5. A fabric as described in claim 1, in which the reverse loops define a scalloped contour.
6. A fabric as described in claim 5, in which some of the edge warps define similar scalloped contours of lesser amplitude.
7. A selvaged woven fabric consisting of warp yarns some of which are edge warps and weft yarns, the warp yarns extending under and over even numbers of weft yarns, said weft yarns forming loops at one of the selvages extending different distances from the median of the fabric to give said selvage a scalloped contour with alternate crests and troughs, at least one of the edge warps following the contour of said selvage the under and over frequency of said edge warps at the troughs being less than at the crests.
References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 764,208 Ronsdorf July 5, 1904 1,777,093 Klahre Sept. 30, 1930 FOREIGN PATENTS 363,268 France July 25, 1906 10,623 Great Britain of 1896

Claims (1)

1. A SELVAGED FABRIC HAVING A WARP SOME OF THE YARNS OF WHICH ARE EDGE WARPS, SAID FABRIC HAVING A WEFT IN WHICH EACH PICK CONSISTS OF A SINGLE CONTINUOUS THREAD DOUBLED TO FORM A LOOP WHICH EXTENDS ACROSS THE FABRIC AND ENDS AT ONE OF TH SELVAGES OF THE FABRIC, THE OTHER SELVAGE BEING COMPOSED OF REVERSE LOOPS OF THE SAME
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US226349A US3152620A (en) 1962-09-26 1962-09-26 Woven narrow web with ornamental selvage
ES0285134A ES285134A3 (en) 1962-09-26 1963-02-14 Woven narrow web with ornamental selvage
FR8768A FR1369185A (en) 1962-09-26 1963-09-10 small width woven fabric with ornamental selvedge

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Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4549665A (en) * 1982-09-03 1985-10-29 Republic Steel Corporation Shelf assembly
US4562868A (en) * 1979-02-28 1986-01-07 Michel Jammes Method for making a woven band
EP0810311A1 (en) * 1996-05-31 1997-12-03 Sahuc, Michel Loom for the realisation of ornamental fringes
EP2832906A1 (en) * 2013-08-02 2015-02-04 Technische Universität Dresden Fabric, method and device for its manufacture

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB189610623A (en) * 1896-05-16 1896-11-28 Heinrich Spiegler Improvements in the Manufacture of Woven Fabrics, and in Machinery or Apparatus therefor.
US764208A (en) * 1902-06-16 1904-07-05 Jan Herman Van Eeghen Woven lace fabric.
FR363268A (en) * 1906-02-14 1906-07-25 Joseph Degoulange High speed loom
US1777093A (en) * 1929-11-08 1930-09-30 Cons Trimming Corp Weft-disengaging device for bullion-fringe loom apparatus

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB189610623A (en) * 1896-05-16 1896-11-28 Heinrich Spiegler Improvements in the Manufacture of Woven Fabrics, and in Machinery or Apparatus therefor.
US764208A (en) * 1902-06-16 1904-07-05 Jan Herman Van Eeghen Woven lace fabric.
FR363268A (en) * 1906-02-14 1906-07-25 Joseph Degoulange High speed loom
US1777093A (en) * 1929-11-08 1930-09-30 Cons Trimming Corp Weft-disengaging device for bullion-fringe loom apparatus

Cited By (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4562868A (en) * 1979-02-28 1986-01-07 Michel Jammes Method for making a woven band
US4549665A (en) * 1982-09-03 1985-10-29 Republic Steel Corporation Shelf assembly
EP0810311A1 (en) * 1996-05-31 1997-12-03 Sahuc, Michel Loom for the realisation of ornamental fringes
FR2749326A1 (en) * 1996-05-31 1997-12-05 Michel Sahuc TRADE FOR THE PRODUCTION OF GANSEE HEADED FRINGES
US5829486A (en) * 1996-05-31 1998-11-03 Michel Sahuc Frame and method for producing fringes with braided heads
EP2832906A1 (en) * 2013-08-02 2015-02-04 Technische Universität Dresden Fabric, method and device for its manufacture

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ES285134A3 (en) 1963-04-16
FR1369185A (en) 1964-08-07

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