FR2831439A1 - Cosmetic composition used for coloring or repigmenting skin or hair contains self tanning agent and melanogenesis activator - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic composition comprises at least one self tanning agent (I) and at least one melanogenesis activator (II) in a medium.

Description

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The present invention relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition intended for artificial coloring of the skin, characterized in that it comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one self-tanning agent and at least one activator of melanogenesis.

The invention also relates to the uses of this composition for coloring the skin and / or hair and / or hair.

Nowadays, it is important to look good and tanned skin is always a sign of good health. However, natural tanning is not always desirable as it requires prolonged exposure to UV radiation. They cause browning of the skin but in return are likely to induce an alteration thereof, especially in the case of sensitive skin or a continuous exposure to solar radiation. The skin ages prematurely, becomes dry and is characterized by deep wrinkles and senescence spots. It is therefore desirable to find an alternative to natural tanning that is compatible with the requirements of such skins.

 There are also diseases of pigmentation such as vitiligo which is an autoimmune disease characterized by the appearance on the skin of white patches related to a defect of pigmentation.

 It is also known that in most populations, maintaining a constant color of the hair is an important aspiration.

 There is therefore a real need for a product facilitating and / or improving the pigmentation of the skin and / or hair and / or hair.

 Many solutions have been proposed in the field of artificial coloring.

 In the field of exogenous dyes, dihydroxyacetone, or DHA, is a particularly interesting product which is commonly used in cosmetics as an artificial tanning agent for the skin; applied on the latter, especially on the face, he

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 provides a tanning or bronzing effect that looks similar to that which can result from prolonged exposure to the sun (natural tanning) or under a UV lamp.

Erythrulose is also a substance used for the same purpose. It works by binding to the amino acids, peptides and proteins of the stratum comeum, according to the Maillard reaction (non-enzymatic reaction between a sugar and an amine).

The Applicant has also described in Application FR-0012894, a composition capable of coloring the skin and containing a dye precursor consisting of an aromatic compound comprising two adjacent hydroxyl groups, for example of the polyphenol type, and a chemical catalytic system capable of mimicking the activity of polyphenoloxidase. This system consists of salts and oxides of manganese and / or zinc, and alkali and / or alkaline earth hydrogenocarbonates. The aromatic compound, by oxidation, gives the skin and / or hair a brown color.

 These colorations obtained with self-tanning type compounds as defined above appear after a few hours, but disappear rather quickly, and are not always homogeneously distributed on the skin.

 The Applicant has now discovered that the combination of these dyes with a compound activating melanogenesis to promote the pigmentation of the skin and / or hair and / or hair allowed to potentiate the coloring effect, to obtain this effect in a very fast way and to ensure a color retention in the much longer time, and a much higher homogeneity of the coloring.

1 acceptable, au moins un autobronzant et au moins un composé activateur de la mélanogénèse. The subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, characterized in that it comprises, in a physiological medium,

1 acceptable, at least one self-tanner and at least one compound activating melanogenesis.

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The subject of the present invention is also the cosmetic use of this composition as a preparation intended for coloring the skin and / or the hairs and / or the hair.

The invention further relates to the use of this composition for the manufacture of a dermatological preparation for repigmenting the skin and / or the hair and / or hair.

By "physiologically acceptable medium" means a medium that is suitable for topical application to the skin or its integuments, that is to say, compatible with the skin, the mucous membranes, the hair and the nails.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process comprising the application to the skin and / or the hairs and / or the hair of a composition according to the invention.

The biosynthesis of melanin, or melanogenesis, is a particularly complex process that schematically involves the following main steps: Tyrosine->Dopa->Dopaquinone->Dopachrome-> Melanin
Tyrosinase is one of the essential enzymes involved in this reaction sequence.

 In particular, it catalyzes the transformation of tyrosine into DOPA and the transformation reaction of DOPA into Dopaquinone.

 In the epidermis, the melanocyte is involved in the epidermal melanic unit which comprises a melanocyte surrounded by about 36 neighboring keratinocytes.

 All individuals, regardless of phototype, have approximately the same number of melanocytes for a given skin area. The ethnic differences, in terms of pigmentation, are not due to the number of melanocytes, but to the properties of their melanosomes. Melanosomes are aggregated into complexes and are small in size. These are highly specialized organelles whose sole function is the production of melanin. They are born from the endoplasmic reticulum in the form of

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 spherical vacuoles called premelanosomes. Premelanosomes contain an amorphous protein substrate, but no melanogenic enzymes. During the maturation of the premelanosome, the amorphous substrate is organized into a fibrillar structure oriented in the longitudinal axis of the melanosome. There are four stages of development of melanosome corresponding to the intensity of melanization. Melanin is uniformly deposited on the inner fibrillar network of the melanosome and the opacity of the organelle increases to saturation. As melanin is synthesized in the melanosomes, they move from the perinuclear region to the end of the melanocyte dendrites. By phagocytosis, the end of the dendrites is captured by keratinocytes, degraded membranes and redistributed melanosomes in keratinocytes.

 Although the level of melanin varies from one population to another, the amount of tyrosinase does not vary significantly and the messenger RNA level of tyrosinase is identical in white or black skin. The variations in melanogenesis are therefore due to variations in either the activity of tyrosinase or the ability of keratinocytes to phagocytose melanosomes.

In the context of the present invention, by activator of melanogenesis is meant a compound chosen from the substrates of melanin biosynthesis, and the biological activators of melanogenesis capable of acting: by stimulating the synthesis of melanin, and or - by stimulating the activity or the expression of tyrosinase, possibly by increasing the level of intracellular cAMP or by activation of the protein kinase
C, and / or - by stimulating the transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes, for example by stimulating PAR-2 receptors.

As substrates for the biosynthesis of melanin according to the invention, mention may be made of
L-tyrosine, L-dihydrophenylalanine or L-DOPA (J. Invest Dermatol., 1997, 109,
796.

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 As compounds stimulating the synthesis of melanin according to the invention, mention may be made more particularly of the alpha or cyclic diols as described in J. Invest.

Dermatol., 1998, 110, 4,428 (for example, 5-norbornen-2,2-dimethanol or 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol); isoelectric point peptides of between 6 and 11 as described in WO9937279 (for example, Asp-Gln-Pro-Leu-Leu-Thr-P peptide in which P is a hydrophobic amino acid such as Tryptophan Trp); the nucleopeptide complexes as described in WO9812212 (for example the complex formed by: puric acid-alanine-histidine-dibromophenylalanine-NH2); adenosine-1 receptor antagonists (e.g., 1,3-dimethyl-8-cyclopentylxanthine or 1,3-diisopropyl-8-cyclopentylxanthine), or adenosine-2 receptor agonists (e.g., 2- [(cyclohexylethyl) amino) adenosine) as described in WO9815276; complexes of metal ions such as copper and peptones such as a protein hydrolyzate from soybean, collagen or casein, as described in US Pat. No. 5,698,184; the compounds as described in the patent application WO9951198 and chosen from alpha-hydroxy acids (in particular glycolic, lactic or citric acid) and their derivatives; beta-hydroxy acids and their derivatives; alpha-ketoacids and their derivatives; retinoids and their derivatives (especially vitamin A); catechins and esters of gallic acids of catechins or a green tea extract as described in WO9966897; or else the plant extracts described by the Applicant in the patent applications
WO9913856 and EP0993826. These documents are all incorporated herein by reference.

Among the compounds stimulating the activity or expression of the tyrosinase according to the invention, mention may be made of the prostaglandins as described in the patent application WO9800100; activators of NO / cGMP / protein kinase C for example isosorbidedinitrate / cGMP / protein kinase C (WO9811882); or else the extracts of plants chosen from Caesapinia sappan (EP820761), Parameria laevigata,
Piper cubeba, Sonchus arvensis, Pluchea indica L., Massoia aromatica, Alstonia scholaris, Alycia reindwartii BL, Cinnamomum sintoc, Arctostaphylos, Chenopodium,
Poterium, Gautheria (EP914816). These documents are all incorporated herein by reference.

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 According to the invention, the compounds stimulating the expression of tyrosinase by increasing the level of intracellular cAMP, are advantageously chosen from pro-opiomelanocortic peptides; alpha-MSH or alpha-MSH analogs (e.g., Ac- [D] Phe-a-MSH1-13-NH2); or MC1R receptor agonists (US5,683, 981, WO9825584), cAMP analogs as described in Biochem.

Biophys. Res. Comm., 1987, 145, 719, Forskolin (J. Int Med res., 1990, 18, 8C-17C, and xanthine bases (e.g., caffeine or theophylline) These are all incorporated herein by reference. .

As compounds stimulating the expression of tyrosinase by activation of protein kinase C, mention may be made of diacylglycerols as described in J. Invest. Dermatol., 1995, 105, 5,687, or psoralens such as those described in Photodermatol. Photoimmunol. Photomed., 1997, 13, 9. These documents are all incorporated herein by reference.

Finally, compounds stimulating the transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes by stimulation of PAR-2 receptors or of PAR-2 agonists (for example the peptide of composition Ser-Leu-Ile-Gly-Arg-Leu) have been described in patent application WO9904752 which is incorporated herein by reference.

An advantageous aspect of the invention relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, characterized in that it comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one self-tanning agent and at least one plant extract which activates melanogenesis, preferably chosen from among the species Sanguisorba officinalis and Chrysanthemum morifolium.

Sanguisorba officinalis is a herbaceous plant of temperate regions, still called
Great Pimprenelle, which belongs to the Rosaceae family. The root of Sanguisorba officinalis consists essentially of phenolic compounds and triterpene glycosides. Phenolic compounds include caffeic acid and chlorogenic acid, single coumarins and furocoumarins, but especially tannins and in particular ellagitannins, as well as catechols and gallocatechols.

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Sanguisorba officinalis also contains organic acids (quinic and tiglic acids) and an essential oil containing terpenoids.

The use of extracts of Sanguisorba officinalis as stimulator of melanogenesis has been described by the Applicant in the patent application EP0993826.

According to the present invention it will be preferred to use an extract of Sanguisorba officinalis prepared from roots and / or rhizomes of this species.

Preferably, according to the invention, use is made of a dry root and rhizome extract of Sanguisorba officinalis, which may especially be obtained in the form of a powder from MARUZEN PHARMACEUTICALS CO., LTD (Bumet Extract Powder).

The genus Chrysanthemum belongs to the family Compositae, which belongs to the order Asteracae (or Astralaceae). The genus Chrysanthemum comprises around 200 species from Europe and Asia, including Chrysanthemum hortorum, Chrysanthemum morifolium, Chrysanthemum coronarium, Chrysanthemum myconis, Chrysanthemum sagitum, Chrysanthemum indicum, and Chrysanthemum segetum. Chrysanthemum can be any extract prepared from any plant material derived from a plant of the genus Chrysanthemum grown in vivo or derived from in vitro culture.

By in vivo culture is meant any culture of conventional type, ie in soil in the open air or in the greenhouse, or above ground.

By in vitro culture is meant all the techniques known to those skilled in the art which artificially allows the production of a plant or part of a plant.

The use of extracts of Chrysanthemum as a stimulator of melanogenesis has been described by the Applicant in the patent application WO9913856.

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For example, it is possible to use, for example, according to the present invention, an extract of various parts of the plant: leaves, flowers, stems, roots, undifferentiated cells, alone or as a mixture, whether the plant is cultured in vivo or in vitro.

The selection pressure imposed by the physicochemical conditions during the growth of the plant cells in vitro makes it possible to obtain standardized plant material that is available throughout the year, unlike plants grown in vivo.

By plant extract of the genus Chrysanthemum is meant both a crude mixture of parts of the plant roughly reduced in pieces and the extraction solvent as prepared preparations solubilized active ingredients during extraction. A particularly usable extract according to the invention is achieved by fine grinding of parts of the plant followed by maceration in the extraction solvent and finally filtration.

Of course, the extract according to the invention may be each of the extracts thus obtained used alone or as a mixture with one or more of the other extracts.

Preferably, an extract obtained from plant material cultivated in vivo and even more particularly an extract obtained from plant leaves of the genus is used.
Chrysanthemum grown in vivo.

 A plant originating from Chrysanthemum morifolium is preferably used.

 This species has many varieties among which we can mention the variety sinensis, which is particularly suitable for an implementation of the present invention.

 According to the present invention, self-tanning means both exogenous dyes and dye precursors as described above. In particular, mention may be made of: - dihydoxyacetone, - erythrulose, and - the combination of a catalytic system formed of:

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 - salts and oxides of manganese and / or zinc, and - alkali and / or alkaline earth hydrogenocarbonates.

The amounts of self-tanning and melanogenesis activator compound contained in the composition according to the invention are chosen so as to obtain a fast and durable coloration over time, and are likely to vary according to the desired effect.

In general, the self-tanning agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, and preferably in an amount of between 0.1 and 10% of the total weight of the composition.

For its part, the compound activating melanogenesis is present in the composition in an amount of between 0.1 to 15% by weight, and preferably in an amount of between 0.5 and 5% of the total weight of the composition.

Of course, if the activator of melanogenesis is present in the form of a solution containing a plant extract, the person skilled in the art will be able to adjust the amount of this solution in the composition according to the invention so as to obtain the concentration ranges below. above.

The composition of the invention may be in any of the galenical forms conventionally used for topical application and especially in the form of aqueous, hydroalcoholic or oily solutions, oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-water emulsions. oil (W / O) or multiple (triple: W / O / W or O / W / W), aqueous or oily gels, liquid, pasty or solid anhydrous products, or dispersions of a fatty phase in one phase water using spherules, these spherules may be polymeric nanoparticles such as nanospheres and nanocapsules, or lipid vesicles of ionic and / or nonionic type. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

 This composition may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a mousse . It can optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. She

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peut également se présenter sous forme solide, et par exemple sous forme de stick. Elle peut en variante se présenter sous forme de shampoing ou d'après shampoing.

can also be in solid form, and for example in the form of a stick. It may alternatively be in the form of shampoo or conditioner.

When the composition used according to the invention comprises an oily phase, it preferably contains at least one oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.

As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for example triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or else, for example, sunflower, corn or soybean oils, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil; esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas RCOOR and R / OR in which RI represents the residue of a fatty acid containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a chain hydrocarbonaceous, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for example purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl stearate -2-dodecyl, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam oil;

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 fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol; partially fluorinated hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912; silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; - their mixtures.

 By hydrocarbon oil is meant in the list of oils mentioned above, any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.

 The other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, waxes Fischer-Tropsch; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-C 1-4 alkyl dimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; and silicone elastomers such as the products sold under the names KSG by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names Trefil, BY29 or EPSX by Dow Coming or under the names Gransil by the company Grant Industries.

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These fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or texture.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion. The proportion of the oily phase of the emulsion can range from 5 to 90% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture and optionally a coemulsifier. The emulsifiers are suitably selected according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W).

The emulsifier and the co-emulsifier are generally present in the composition, in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The emulsion may further contain lipid vesicles.

For the W / O emulsions, examples of emulsifiers that may be mentioned include dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name DC 5225 C by Dow Coming, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Coming 5200 Formulation Aid" by the company Dow Coming and the
Cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 90R by the company
Goldschmidt. It is also possible to use, as surfactant of W / O emulsions, a crosslinked elastomeric solid organopolysiloxane comprising at least one oxyalkylenated group, such as those obtained according to the procedure of Examples 3,4 and 8 of US-A-5,412,004 and examples of US-A-5,811,487, especially the product of Example 3 (synthetic example) of US-A-5,412,004 and such as that marketed under the reference KSG 21 by the company Shin Etsu . Finally can also

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 use as emulsifier of succinically terminated polyolefins such as ester-terminated polyisobutenes and their salts, especially the diethanolamine salts such as the products sold by LUBRIZOL under the names Lubrizol 2724, Lubrizol 2722 and Lubrizol 5603.

oxypropylénés) ; les esters de sucres comme le stéarate de méthyl glucose commercialisé par Amerchol sous la dénomination deglutamate 88E 20, le stéarate de sucrose ; et leurs mélanges tels que le mélange de stéarate de glycéryle et de stéarate de PEG-40 ;. For O / W emulsions, mention may be made, for example, as emulsifiers, of nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid and sorbitan esters; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylenated and / or

oxypropylenes); sugar esters such as methyl glucose stearate marketed by Amerchol under the name of glutamate 88E 20, sucrose stearate; and mixtures thereof such as the mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-40 stearate;

In known manner, the cosmetic or dermatological composition of the invention may also contain adjuvants usual in the cosmetic or dermatological field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, fragrances, fillers, UV filters, bactericides, odor absorbers, dyestuffs, salts. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase and / or into the lipid spherules.

As fillers which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, besides the pigments, the silica powder; talcum; polyamide particles and in particular those sold under the name ORGASOL by the company Atochem; polyethylene powders; micro-spheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by Dow Corning under the name Polytrap; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and in particular,

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 the microspheres marketed under the name EXPANCEL by the company Kemanord Plast or under the name MICROPEARL F 80 ED by the company Matsumoto; silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the name Tospearl by the company Toshiba Silicone; and their mixtures. These fillers may be present in amounts ranging from 0 to 20% by weight and preferably from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition used according to the invention contains at least one UV filter (or sunscreen) which may be a chemical filter or a physical filter or a mixture of such filters.

By way of illustration and in a nonlimiting manner, mention may be made of the following families (the names correspond to the CTFA nomenclature of the filters): anthranilates, in particular menthyl anthranilate; benzophenones, in particular benzophenone-1, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-5, benzophenone-6, benzophenone-8, benzophenone-9, benzophenone-12, and preferentially benzophenone-2 (oxybenzone), or Benzophenone-4 (Uvinul MS40 available from BASF); benzylidenes-camphors, in particular
3-benzylidenecamphor, benzylidenecamphosulfonic acid, camphor benzalkonium methosulphate, polyacrylamidomethylbenzylidene camphor, terephthalylidene di-camphorsulfonic acid, and preferentially 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (Eusolex 6300 available from Merck); benzimidazoles, in particular benzimidazilate (Neo Heliopan AP available from
Haannann and Reimer), or phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (Eusolex 232 available from Merck); benzotriazoles, in particular trisiloxane drometzol, or methylene bis-benzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol (Tinosorb M available from
Ciba); cinnamates, in particular cinoxate, DEA methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methylcinnamate, dimethoxycinnamate glyceryl ethylhexanoate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl cinnamate, and preferably ethocrylene (Uvinul N35 available from BASF), octyl methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX available from Hoffmann La Roche), or octocrylene (Uvinul 539 available from BASF); dibenzoylmethanes, in particular butyl

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 methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789); imidazolines, in particular ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline; PABAs, in particular ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, ethylhexyldimethyl PABA, glyceryl PABA, PABA, PEG-25 PABA, and preferentially diethylhexylbutamido-triazone (Uvasorb HEB available from 3V Sigma), ethylhexyltriazone (Uvinul T150 available from BASF), or ethyl PABA (benzocaine); salicylates, especially dipropylene glycol salicylate, ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate, or TEA salicylate; triazines, in particular anisotriazine (Tinosorb S available from Ciba); drometrizole trisiloxane, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.

The amount of filters depends on the desired end use. It may range, for example, from 1 to 20% by weight and better still from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The examples which follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. The names are, as the case may be, in chemical names or International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (CTFA) names, and the percentages by weight unless otherwise indicated.

Example 1: Self-tanning emulsion
A emulsion having the following composition is prepared in a conventional manner for a person skilled in the art:

<Tb>
<tb> Apricot oil <SEP><SEP> 6 <SEP>%
<tb> Cyclohexasiloxane <SEP> 10 <SEP>%
<tb> Stearyl <SEP> alcohol <SEP> (and) <SEP> ceteareth <SEP> 20 <SEP> 2 <SEP>%
<tb> Methylglucose <SEP> sesquistearate <SEP> 2 <SEP>%
<tb> Xanthan <SEP> gum <SEP> 0.25 <SEP>%
<tb> Aluminum <SEP> starch <SEP> octenylsuccinate <SEP> 3 <SEP>%
<tb> Glycerine <SEP> 5 <SEP>%
<tb> Preservatives <SEP> 0.6 <SEP>%
<tb> Dihydroxyacetone <SEP> 5 <SEP>%
<Tb>

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<Tb>
<tb> Sanguisorba <SEP> officinalis * <SEP> 1 <SEP>%
<tb> Water <SEP> qsp <SEP> 100 <SEP>%
<Tb>
(*: Bumet Extract Powder marketed by Maruzen Pharmaceutical) This composition can be used in single-or two-day application to obtain a natural and durable natural color of the skin.

Example 2: oleosome type cream A emulsion having the following composition is prepared in a conventional manner for a person skilled in the art:

<Tb>
<tb> Apricot oil <SEP><SEP> 7 <SEP>%
<tb> Cyclohexasiloxane <SEP> 6 <SEP>%
<tb> Caprylic / Capric <SEP> Triglyceride <SEP> 7 <SEP>%
<tb> Stearic <SEP> acid <SEP> 1 <SEP>%
<tb> Polysorbate <SEP> 61 <SEP> 1.35 <SEP>%
<tb> Sucrose <SEP> tristearate <SEP> 2 <SEP>%
<tb> Xanthan <SEP> gum <SEP> 0.25 <SEP>%
<tb> Aluminum <SEP> starch <SEP> octenylsuccinate <SEP> 3 <SEP>%
<tb> Carbomer <SEP> 0.3 <SEP>%
<tb> Glycerine <SEP> 5 <SEP>%
<tb> Propylene <SEP> Glycol <SEP> 1 <SEP>%
<tb> Preservatives <SEP> 1, <SEP> 1 <SEP>%
<tb> Erythrulose <SEP> 5 <SEP>%
<tb> Extract <SEP> of <SEP> chrysanthemum * <SEP> 5 <SEP>%
<tb> Water <SEP> qsp <SEP> 100 <SEP>%
<Tb>
(*: lyophilisate of aqueous extract of leaves of Chrysantemum sinensis)

Claims (21)

1. Cosmetic composition characterized in that it comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one self-tanning agent and at least one activating compound of melanogenesis. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the self-tanning agent is chosen from - dihydroxyacetone, - erythrulose, and - the combination of polyphenols and a catalytic system formed of: - salts and oxides of manganese and / or zinc and - alkali and / or alkaline earth hydrogenocarbonates. 3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the activator of melanogenesis is selected from the substrates of the biosynthesis of melanin, and the biological activators of melanogenesis capable of acting by stimulating the melanin synthesis, and / or by stimulating the activity or expression of tyrosinase, and / or by stimulating the transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes. 4. Composition according to claim 3, characterized in that the activator of melanogenesis is chosen from L-tyrosine, L-dihydrophenylalanine, L- DOPA, aliphatic diols, cyclic diols, isoelectric point peptides between 6 and 11, adenosine-1 receptor antagonists, adenosine-2 receptor agonists, alpha-hydroxy acids and their derivatives, beta-hydroxy acids and their derivatives, alpha-ketoacids and their derivatives, retinoids and their derivatives, catechins, gallic acid esters of catechins, green tea extracts, plant extracts, prostaglandins, activators of NO / cGMP / protein kinase C, pro-opiomelanocortic peptides, alpha-MSH, alpha-MSH analogs, MC1R receptor agonists, <Desc / Clms Page number 18>  cAMP, Forskolin, xanthine bases diacylglycerols, psoralens and PAR-2 receptor agonists. 5. Composition according to claim 4, characterized in that the activator of melanogenesis is an extract of plants selected from Caesapinia sappan, Primameria

 laevigata, Piper cubeba, Sonchus arvensis, Pluchea indica L., Massoia aromatica, Alstonia scholars, Alycia reindwartii Bl., Cinnamomum sintoc, Arctostaphylos, Chenopodium, Poterium, Gautheria, Sanguisorba officinalis and Chrysanthemum. 6. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the activator of melanogenesis is a plant extract of the species Sanguisorba officinalis. 7. Composition according to claim 6, characterized in that the extract of Sanguisorba officinalis is prepared from roots and / or rhizomes of this species. 8. Composition according to Claim 6, characterized in that the extract of Sanguisorba officinalis is a dry extract of roots and rhizomes. 9. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the activator of melanogenesis is an extract of plants of the genus Chrysanthemum. 10. Composition according to claim 9, characterized in that the plant extract is from the species Chrysanthemum morifolium.  11. Composition according to claim 9, characterized in that the plant extract comes from the variety Chrysanthemum morifolium sinensis.  12. Composition according to any one of claims 9 to 11 characterized in that the Chrysanthemum extract is prepared from plant leaves grown in vivo. <Desc / Clms Page number 19>  13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the self-tanning agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 14. Composition according to Claim 13, characterized in that the self-tanning agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 15. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that the melanogenesis activator is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 16. Composition according to claim 15, characterized in that the melanogenesis activator is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 17. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, characterized in that it further contains at least one UV filter selected from chemical or physical filters. 18. Composition according to claim 17, characterized in that the UV filter is present in an amount ranging from 1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.  19. Cosmetic use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 18 for coloring the skin and / or the hair and / or the hair.  20. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 18 for the manufacture of a dermatological preparation for repigmenting the skin and / or the hair and / or hair. <Desc / Clms Page number 20> 21. Cosmetic treatment process comprising applying to the skin and / or the hairs and / or the hair a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one self-tanning agent and at least one compound that activates melanogenesis.