FR2831438A1 - New cosmetic or dermatological composition useful for activating melanogenesis to color or repigment skin or hair - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising, in a suitable medium, a combination of at least one melanogenesis activator which is a plant extract of the rosaceae family and at least one melanogenesis activator which is a plant extract of the compositae family, is new. An Independent claim is also included for a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprises, in a suitable medium, a combination of at least one melanogenesis activator which is a plant extract of the Sanguisorba genus and at least one melanogenesis activator which is a plant extract of the Chrysanthemum genus.

Description

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The present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition intended for the coloration of the skin, characterized in that it contains, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a combination of at least one activator of melanogenesis extracted from the plant of the family rosaceae and at least one activator of melanogenesis extracted from plant of the family of compounds.

The invention also relates to the uses of this composition for coloring the skin and / or hair and / or hair.

The color of human hair and skin is a function of various factors including seasons of the year, race, sex and age. It is mainly determined by the concentration in keratinocytes of melanin produced by melanocytes. Melanocytes are specialized cells that, via particular organelles, melanosomes, synthesize melanin.

The synthesis of melanin or melanogenesis is particularly complex and involves schematically the following main steps: Tyrosine->Dopa->Dopaquinone-> Dopachrome ---> Melanin Tyrosinase (monophenol dihydroxyl phenylalanine: oxygen oxidoreductase / EC
1.14, 18.1) is the essential enzyme involved in this sequence of reactions. In particular, it catalyzes the conversion reaction of tyrosine to Dopa (dihydroxyphelylalanine) and the conversion reaction of Dopa to Dopaquinone.

 In the epidermis, the melanocyte is involved in the epidermal melanic unit which comprises a melanocyte surrounded by about 36 neighboring keratinocytes. All individuals, regardless of phototype, have approximately the same number of melanocytes for a given skin area. The ethnic differences, in terms of pigmentation, are not due to the number of melanocytes, but to the properties of their melanosomes.

 Melanosomes are aggregated into complexes and are small in size. These are highly specialized organelles whose sole function is the production of melanin.

 They are born from the endoplasmic reticulum in the form of spherical vacuoles called premelanosomes. Premelanosomes contain an amorphous protein substrate, but no melanogenic enzymes. During the maturation of the premelanosome, the amorphous substrate is organized into a fibrillar structure oriented in the longitudinal axis of the melanosome. There are four stages of melanosome development

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 corresponding to the intensity of melanization. Melanin is uniformly deposited on the inner fibrillar network of the melanosome and the opacity of the organelle increases to saturation. As melanin is synthesized in the melanosomes, they move from the perinuclear region to the end of the melanocyte dendrites. By phagocytosis, the end of the dendrites is captured by keratinocytes, degraded membranes and redistributed melanosomes in keratinocytes.

Although the level of melanin varies from one population to another, the amount of tyrosinase does not vary significantly and the messenger RNA level of tyrosinase is identical in white or black skin. The variations in melanogenesis are therefore due to variations in either the activity of tyrosinase or the ability of keratinocytes to phagocytose melanosomes.

 Nowadays, it is important to look good and tanned skin is always a sign of good health. However, natural tanning is not always desirable as it requires prolonged exposure to UV radiation, especially UV-A radiation. They cause browning of the skin but in return are likely to induce an alteration thereof, especially in the case of sensitive skin or a continuous exposure to solar radiation. The skin ages prematurely, becomes dry and is characterized by many wrinkles and age spots. It is therefore desirable to find an alternative to natural tanning that is compatible with the requirements of such skins.

 There are also diseases of pigmentation such as vitiligo which is an autoimmune disease characterized by the appearance on the skin of white patches related to a defect of pigmentation.

 There is therefore a real need for a product facilitating and / or improving the pigmentation of the skin and / or hair and / or hair.

 Many solutions have been proposed in the field of artificial coloring.

 In the field of exogenous dyes, dihydroxyacetone, or DHA, is a particularly interesting product which is commonly used in cosmetics as an artificial tanning agent for the skin; applied on the latter, especially on the face, he

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 provides a tanning or bronzing effect that looks similar to that which can result from prolonged exposure to the sun (natural tanning) or under a UV lamp.

Erythrulose is also a substance used for the same purpose. These compounds act by binding to the amino acids, peptides and proteins of the stratum comeum, according to the Maillard reaction (non-enzymatic reaction between a sugar and an amine).

These colorations obtained with self-tanning type compounds as defined above appear after a few hours, but disappear rather quickly, and are not always homogeneously distributed on the skin.

In order to obtain staining that lasts over time, it has been proposed in the prior art to act directly on the biological process of melanogenesis, so as to stimulate the biosynthesis of melanin. Thus, the preparation and use of activators of melanogenesis have been widely illustrated, these activators being either substrates for the biosynthesis of melanin or stimulators of melanin biosynthesis.

 The Applicant has now discovered that the combination of two activators of melanogenesis capable of acting by stimulating the biosynthesis of melanin and extracting one from the family Rosaceae and the other from the family of compounds, potentiates important way pigmentation of the skin and / or hair and / or hair. The coloration thus obtained is homogeneous, durable and more intense than the coloration obtained with the activators described in the state of the art. In other words, this combination produces a synergistic effect in the coloration of the skin and / or the hair and / or the hair.

 The subject of the present invention is thus a cosmetic or dermatological composition, characterized in that it contains, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a combination of at least one activator of melanogenesis extracted from the plant of the rosaceae family and from less an activator of melanogenesis extracted from plant of the family of compounds.

 The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use of this composition for coloring the skin and / or the hair and / or the hair.

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The invention further relates to the use of this composition for the manufacture of a dermatological preparation for repigmenting the skin and / or the hair and / or hair.

By "physiologically acceptable medium" means a medium that is suitable for topical application to the skin or its integuments, that is to say, compatible with the skin, the mucous membranes, the hair and the nails.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process comprising the application to the skin and / or the hairs and / or the hair of a composition according to the invention.

An advantageous aspect of the invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition, characterized in that it comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one activator plant extract of the melanogenesis of the genus Sanguisorba and at least one plant extract activator of the melanogenesis of the genus
Chrysanthemum.

Chrysantemum morifolium. Sanguisorba officinalis est une plante herbacée des régions tempérées, encore appelée Grande Pimprenelle, qui appartient à la famille des rosacées. La racine de Sanguisorba officinalis est essentiellement constituée de composés phénoliques et de triterpène glycosides. Parmi les composés phénoliques, on peut citer l'acide caféique et l'acide chlorogénique, des coumarines simples et des furocoumarines, mais surtout des tannins et en particulier des ellagitannins, ainsi que des catéchols et des gallo-catéchols. Sanguisorba officinalis contient également des acides organiques (acides quinique et tiglique) et une huile essentielle contenant des terpénoides. Preferably at least one extract of the genus Sanguisorba comes from the species
Sanguisorba officinalis and at least one extract of the genus Chrysantemum comes from the species

Chrysantemum morifolium. Sanguisorba officinalis is a herbaceous plant of temperate regions, still called Grande Pimprenelle, which belongs to the Rosaceae family. The root of Sanguisorba officinalis consists essentially of phenolic compounds and triterpene glycosides. Phenolic compounds include caffeic acid and chlorogenic acid, single coumarins and furocoumarins, but especially tannins and in particular ellagitannins, as well as catechols and gallocatechols. Sanguisorba officinalis also contains organic acids (quinic and tiglic acids) and an essential oil containing terpenoids.

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The use of extracts of Sanguisorba officinalis as stimulator of melanogenesis has been described by the Applicant in the patent application EP0993826.

According to the present invention it will be preferred to use an extract of Sanguisorba officinalis prepared from roots and / or rhizomes of this species.

Preferably, according to the invention, use is made of a dry root and rhizome extract of Sanguisorba officinalis, which may especially be obtained in the form of a powder from MARUZEN PHARMACEUTICALS CO., LTD (Bumet Extract Powder).

The genus Chrysanthemum belongs to the Compositae family, which belongs to the order Asteracae (or Asteraceae). Chrysanthemum comprises around 200 species from Europe and Asia, including Chrysanthemum hortorum, Chrysanthemum morifolium, Chrysanthemum coronarium, Chrysanthemum myconis, Chrysanthemum sagitum, Chrysanthemum indicum, and Chrysanthemum hortorum.
Chrysanthemum segetum
The plant extract of the genus Chrysanthemum may be any extract prepared from any plant material derived from a plant of the genus Chrysanthemum grown in vivo or derived from in vitro culture.

 By in vivo culture is meant any culture of conventional type, ie in soil in the open air or in the greenhouse, or above ground.

 By in vitro culture is meant all the techniques known to those skilled in the art which artificially allows the production of a plant or part of a plant.

 The use of extracts of Chrysanthemum as a stimulator of melanogenesis has been described by the Applicant in the patent application WO9913856.

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For example, it is possible to use, for example, according to the present invention, an extract of various parts of the plant: leaves, flowers, stems, roots, undifferentiated cells, alone or as a mixture, whether the plant is cultured in vivo or in vitro.

The selection pressure imposed by the physicochemical conditions during the growth of the plant cells in vitro makes it possible to obtain standardized plant material that is available throughout the year, unlike plants grown in vivo.

By plant extract of the genus Chrysanthemum is meant both a crude mixture of parts of the plant roughly reduced in pieces and the extraction solvent as prepared preparations solubilized active ingredients during extraction. A particularly usable extract according to the invention is achieved by fine grinding of parts of the plant followed by maceration in the extraction solvent and finally filtration.

 Of course, the extract according to the invention may be each of the extracts thus obtained used alone or as a mixture with one or more of the other extracts.

Preferably, an extract obtained from plant material cultivated in vivo and even more particularly an extract obtained from plant leaves of the genus is used.
Chrysanthemum grown in vivo.

A plant originating from Chrysanthemum morifolium is preferably used.
This species has many varieties among which we can mention the variety sinensis, which is particularly suitable for an implementation of the present invention.

 The amounts of melanogenesis-activating compounds contained in the composition according to the invention are chosen so as to obtain a homogeneous and durable coloration over time, and may vary according to the desired effect.

 Advantageously, the activating compounds for melanogenesis are present in the composition each in an amount of between 0.1 to 15% by weight, and preferably in an amount of between 0.5 and 5% of the total weight of the composition.

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 Of course, if the activators of melanogenesis are present in the form of a solution containing a plant extract, the person skilled in the art will be able to adjust the amount of this solution in the composition according to the invention so as to obtain the concentration ranges above. .

The composition of the invention may be in any of the galenical forms conventionally used for topical application and especially in the form of aqueous, hydroalcoholic or oily solutions, oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-water emulsions. oil (W / O) or multiple (triple: W / O / W or O / W / W), aqueous or oily gels, liquid, pasty or solid anhydrous products, or dispersions of a fatty phase in one phase water using spherules, these spherules may be polymeric nanoparticles such as nanospheres and nanocapsules, or lipid vesicles of ionic and / or nonionic type. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

This composition may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a mousse . It can optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. It can also be in solid form, and for example in the form of a stick. Alternatively it can be in the form of shampoo or conditioner.

 When the composition used according to the invention comprises an oily phase, it preferably contains at least one oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.

 As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn or soybean oils, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot,

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 macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810,812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, oil jojoba, shea butter oil; esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas RCOOR and ROR in which RI represents the residue of a fatty acid comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as, for example, purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl-2 stearate dodecyl, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam oil; fatty alcohols having 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol; partially fluorinated hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912; silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenyl-siloxanes, diphenyl-

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 dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; - their mixtures.

By hydrocarbon oil is meant in the list of oils mentioned above, any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.

The other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, waxes Fischer-Tropsch; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-C 1-4 alkyl dimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; and silicone elastomers such as the products sold under the names KSG by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names Trefil, BY29 or EPSX by Dow Coming or under the names Gransil by the company Grant Industries.

 These fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or texture.

 According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion. The proportion of the oily phase of the emulsion can range from 5 to 90% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

 The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or in combination with emulsifiers.

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 mixture and optionally a co-emulsifier. The emulsifiers are suitably selected according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W).

The emulsifier and the co-emulsifier are generally present in the composition, in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The emulsion may further contain lipid vesicles.

For the W / O emulsions, examples of emulsifiers that may be mentioned include dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name DC 5225 C by Dow Coming, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by the company Dow Coming and the
Cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 90R by the company
Goldschmidt. It is also possible to use, as surfactant of W / O emulsions, a crosslinked elastomeric solid organopolysiloxane comprising at least one oxyalkylenated group, such as those obtained according to the procedure of Examples 3,4 and 8 of US-A-5,412,004 and examples of US-A-5,811,487, especially the product of Example 3 (synthetic example) of US-A-5,412,004 and such as that marketed under the reference KSG 21 by the company Shin Etsu . Finally, succinic-terminated polyolefins such as ester-terminated polyisobutenes and their salts can also be used as emulsifiers, especially diethanolamine salts, such as the products sold by LUBRIZOL under the names Lubrizol 2724, Lubrizol 2722 and Lubrizol 5603.

 For O / W emulsions, mention may be made, for example, as emulsifiers, of nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid and sorbitan esters; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); esters of sugars, such as methyl glucose stearate sold by Amerchol under the name deglutamate SSE 20, stearate of

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sucrose ; et leurs mélanges tels que le mélange de stéarate de glycéryle et de stéarate de PEG-40.

sucrose; and mixtures thereof such as the mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-40 stearate.

In known manner, the cosmetic or dermatological composition of the invention may also contain adjuvants usual in the cosmetic or dermatological field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, fragrances, fillers, UV filters, odor absorbers, dyestuffs, salts. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase and / or into the lipid spherules.

As fillers which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, besides the pigments, the silica powder; talcum; polyamide particles and in particular those sold under the name ORGASOL by the company Atochem; polyethylene powders; micro-spheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those in ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by Dow Coming under the name Polytrap; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and in particular the microspheres sold under the name Expancel by the company Kemanord Plast or under the name Micropearl F 80 ED by the company Matsumoto; silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the name Tospearl by the company Toshiba Silicone; and their mixtures. These fillers may be present in amounts ranging from 0 to 20% by weight and preferably from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition used according to the invention contains at least one UV filter (or sunscreen) which may be a chemical filter or a physical filter or a mixture of such filters.

As an illustration and in a nonlimiting manner, the following families may be mentioned (the names correspond to the CTFA nomenclature of the filters):

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les anthranilates, en particulier l'anthranilate de menthyle ; les benzophénones, en particulier la benzophénone-1, la benzophénone-3, la benzophénone-5, la benzophénone-6, la benzophénone-8, la benzophénone-9, la benzophénone-12, et préférentiellement la Benzophénone-2 (Oxybenzone), ou la Benzophénone-4 (Uvinul MS40 disponible chez B. A. S. F. ) ; les benzylidènes-camphres, en particulier le 3-benzylidène-camphre, l'acide benzylidènecampho-sulfonique, le benzalkoniumméthosulfate de Camphre, le polyacrylamidométhylbenzylidène camphre, l'acide téréphthalylidène di-camphre sulfonique, et préférentiellement le 4méthylbenzylidène camphre (Eusolex 6300 disponible chez Merck) ; les benzimidazoles, en particulier le benzimidazilate (Neo Heliopan AP disponible chez Haarmann et Reimer), ou l'acide phénylbenzimidazole sulfonique (Eusolex 232 disponible chez Merck) ; les benzotriazoles, en particulier le drométrizole trisiloxane, ou le méthylène bis-benzotriazolyltétraméthylbutylphénol (Tinosorb M disponible chez Ciba) ; les cinnamates, en particulier le cinoxate, le DEA méthoxycinnamate, le méthylcinnamate de diisopropyle, le glycéryl éthylhexanoate de diméthoxycinnamate, le méthoxycinnamate d'isopropyle, le cinnamat d'isoamyle, et préférentiellement l'éthocrylène (Uvinul N35 disponible chez B. A. S. F. ), l'octylméthoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX disponible chez Hoffmann La Roche), ou l'octocrylène (Uvinul 539 disponible chez B. A. S. F. ) ; les dibenzoylméthanes, en particulier le butyl méthoxydibenzoylméthane (Parsol 1789) ; les imidazolines, en particulier l'éthylhexyl diméthoxybenzylidène dioxoimidazoline ; les PABA, en particulier l'éthyl
Dihydroxypropyl PABA, l'éthylhexyldiméthyl PABA, le glycéryl PABA, le PABA, le
PEG-25 PABA, et préférentiellement la diéthylhexylbutamido-triazone (Uvasorb HEB disponible chez 3V Sigma), l'éthylhexyltriazone (Uvinul Tl 50 disponible chez B. A. S. F. ), ou l'éthyl PABA (benzocame) ; les salicylates, en particulier le salicyclate de dipropylèneglycol, le salicylate d'éthylhexyle, l'homosalate, ou le TEA salicylate ; les triazines, en particulier l'anisotriazine (Tinosorb S disponible chez Ciba) ; le drometrizole trisiloxane, l'oxyde de zinc et le dioxyde de titane.

anthranilates, in particular menthyl anthranilate; benzophenones, in particular benzophenone-1, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-5, benzophenone-6, benzophenone-8, benzophenone-9, benzophenone-12, and preferentially benzophenone-2 (oxybenzone), or Benzophenone-4 (Uvinul MS40 available from BASF); benzylidenecamphers, in particular 3-benzylidenecamphor, benzylidenecamphosulfonic acid, camphoric benzalkonium methosulphate, polyacrylamidomethylbenzylidene camphor, terephthalylidene di-camphorsulfonic acid, and preferentially 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (Eusolex 6300 available from Merck ); benzimidazoles, in particular benzimidazilate (Neo Heliopan AP available from Haarmann and Reimer), or phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (Eusolex 232 available from Merck); benzotriazoles, in particular trisiloxane drometzol, or methylene bis-benzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol (Tinosorb M available from Ciba); cinnamates, in particular cinoxate, DEA methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methylcinnamate, dimethoxycinnamate glyceryl ethylhexanoate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl cinnamate, and preferably ethocrylene (Uvinul N35 available from BASF), octyl methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX available from Hoffmann La Roche), or octocrylene (Uvinul 539 available from BASF); dibenzoylmethanes, especially butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789); imidazolines, in particular ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline; PABA, especially ethyl
Dihydroxypropyl PABA, ethylhexyldimethyl PABA, glyceryl PABA, PABA,
PEG-25 PABA, and preferentially diethylhexylbutamido-triazone (Uvasorb HEB available from 3V Sigma), ethylhexyltriazone (Uvinul Tl 50 available from BASF), or ethyl PABA (benzocam); salicylates, especially dipropylene glycol salicyclate, ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate, or TEA salicylate; triazines, in particular anisotriazine (Tinosorb S available from Ciba); drometrizole trisiloxane, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.

 The amount of filters depends on the desired end use. It may range, for example, from 1 to 20% by weight and better still from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

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 The examples which follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. The names are, as the case may be, in chemical names or International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (CTFA) names, and the percentages by weight unless otherwise indicated.

Example 1 Demonstration of the Modulating Effect on Melanogenesis

MATERIAL AND METHOD
Samples used: - Aqueous leaf extract of Chrysantemum morifolium sinensis (CS extract) - Rosacea leaf extract of the species Sanguisorba officinalis (SO extract) obtained from MARUZEN PHARMACEUTICAL CO. LTD ..

 The keratinocytes, NHK 97C11 or OOC16 obtained from adult skin and the melanocytes, NHM 98C09 initiated from foreskin skin are cultured. Both cell types are amplified in their respective culture medium and stored frozen.

 Eight days before the tests, each of the cell types is cultured in the medium of Green for keratinocytes and in the medium of Oison for melanocytes. The culture media are changed every two days.

 After eight days of culture, the cells are trypsinized and seeded in 96-well plates at 50000 NHK and 17000 NHM per well and cultured for three days. For the next three days the medium is replaced daily by the test medium containing 3J. lCilml of thiouracil labeled with C14.

- culture témoin : pas d'extrait à tester ; - témoin positif de stimulation de la mélanogénèse : 1 mM tyrosine ; - témoin positif d'inhibition de la mélanogénèse : 500 uM d'acide kojique. The following witnesses are made:

- control culture: no extract to be tested; positive control of stimulation of melanogenesis: 1 mM tyrosine; positive control of inhibition of melanogenesis: 500 μM of kojic acid.

The extracts tested are the following: C.sub.3 extract: 3 wells per concentration at 0.5; and 1% of a solution to
10 mg / ml in water,

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S.O. extract: 3 wells per concentration at 1: 10,000; and 1: 5000 of a 10% solution in DMSO.

 Extract of C. S + S. O. Extract tested in amounts: - 1% C.S.S. extract + S.O. extract at 1: 10,000; and 1: 5000; - 0.5% C.S. extract + S.O. extract at 1: 10,000; and 1: 5000.

The day before taking, 1 μCi / ml of tritiated leucine is added to the test medium. After one night, the cells are rinsed with PBS. The proteins are precipitated with 5% trichloroacetic acid (TCA) and digested overnight at 7 ° C. in Proteinase K at 10 μg / ml in Tris HVI-tritium-EDTA buffer.

An aliquot of 10 μl of total extract is taken and diluted in 250 μl of optiphase scintillating liquid. The total radioactivity incorporated in the proteins is counted. The remainder of the extract, 190 μl, is filtered through a DEAE cellulose filter.

(CP/HP)- (CT/HT) -.--.-.--.----..--- x 100 (CT/HT) dans laquelle : CP est la moyenne des désintégrations par minute (dpm) thiouracile 14C sur 3 puits similaires traités par un produit (P) ; - 3HP est la moyenne des dpm leucine 3H correspondant ; - 14CT est la moyenne des dpm thiouracile 14 C sur 3 puits similaires témoin (T) ; - 3HT est la moyenne des dpm leucine 3H correspondant La concentration AC pour laquelle l'induction de la mélanine est de 50% par rapport au témoin est calculée. The radioactivity is counted using the Wallac meter. The results are expressed as a percentage of the control according to the formula:

(CP / HP) - (CT / HT) -.-.-.-. ---- ..--- x 100 (CT / HT) in which: CP is the average of the decays per minute (dpm 14C thiouracil on 3 similar wells treated with a product (P); - 3HP is the average of the corresponding 3H leucine dpm; - 14CT is the average of 14C thiouracil dpm on 3 wells similar control (T); - 3HT is the average of 3H leucine dpm corresponding The AC concentration for which induction of melanin is 50% relative to the control is calculated.

'Classe 3 : 60 à 100% de modulation de la mélanogénèse, * Classe 4 : 100 à 200% de modulation de la mélanogénèse, The products are classified according to their activity according to the following nomenclature: * Class 1: 1 to 30% modulation of melanogenesis, * Class 2: 30 to 60% modulation of melanogenesis,

Class 3: 60 to 100% modulation of melanogenesis, Class 4: 100 to 200% modulation of melanogenesis,

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w Classe 9 : au delà de 1000% de modulation de la mélanogénèse. Class 5: 200 to 400% modulation of melanogenesis, Class 6: 400 to 600% modulation of melanogenesis, Class 7: 600 to 800% modulation of melanogenesis, Class 8: 800 to 1000% modulation of melanogenesis,

w Class 9: above 1000% modulation of melanogenesis.

RESULTS: C. S extract:

<Tb>
<tb><SEP> concentration of <SEP> product <SEP> 14C <SEP> thiouracil / 3Hleucine <SEP> Class
<tb> Tyrosine <SEP> lmM <SEP> 119
<tb> C. <SEP> S. <SEP> to <SEP> 0, <SEP> 5% <SEP> 160 <SEP> 4
<tb> C. <SEP> S <SEP> to <SEP> 1% <SEP> 917 <SEP> 8
<Tb>
The AC concentration is less than 1%.

SO extract

<Tb>
<tb><SEP> concentration of <SEP> product <SEP> 14C <SEP> thiouracil <SEP> / 3H <SEP> leucine <SEP> Class
<tb> Tyrosine <SEP> 1mM <SEP> 119 <SE> S. <SEP> O. <SEP> to <SEP> 1 <SEP>: <SEP> 10000 <SEP> 185 <SEP> 4
<tb> S. <SEP> O. <SEP> to <SEP> 1 <SEP>: <SEP> 5000 <SEP> 385 <SEP> 5
<Tb>

La concentration AC est inférieure à 1 : 10000. Extrait de C. S. + Extrait deS. O. :

The AC concentration is less than 1: 10,000. Extract from CS + Extract from S. O.:

<Tb>
<tb> Concentration <SEP> of <SEP> Product <SEP> Cthiouracilc / Hicucin <SEP> Class
<tb> Tyrosine <SEP> ImM <SEP> 119
<tb> C. <SEP> S. <SEP> to <SEP> 0, <SEP> 5% <SEP> S. <SEP> O. <SEP> to <SEP> 1 <SEP>: <SEP> 10000 <SEP> 1300 <SEP> 9
<tb> C. <SEP> S. <SEP> to <SEP> 0.5% <SE> S. <SEP> O. <SEP> to <SEP> 1 <SEP>: <SEP> 5000 <SEP> 2000 <SEP> 9
<tb> C. <SEP> S. <SEP> to <SEP> 1% <SEP> S. <SEP> O. <SEP> to <SEP> 1 <SEP>: <SEP> 10000 <SEP> 1800 <SEP> 9
<tb> C. <SEP> S. <SEP> to <SEP> 1% <SEP> S. <SEP> O. <SEP> to <SEP> 1 <SEP>: <SEP> 5000 <SEP> 2000 <SEP> 9
<Tb>

<Desc / Clms Page number 16>

At identical concentration, a synergistic effect is observed when the two extracts are tested in combination.

Example 2 Emulsion A emulsion having the following composition is prepared in a conventional manner for a person skilled in the art:

<Tb>
<tb> Apricot oil <SEP><SEP> 6 <SEP>%
<tb> Cyclohexasiloxane <SEP> 10 <SEP>%
<tb> Stearyl <SEP> Alcohol <SEP> (and) <SEP> ceteareth20 <SEP> 2 <SEP>%
<tb> Methylglucose <SEP> sesquistearate <SEP> 2 <SEP>%
<tb> Xanthan <SEP> gum <SEP> 0.25 <SEP>%
<tb> Aluminum <SEP> starch <SEP> octenylsuccinate <SEP> 3 <SEP>%
<tb> Glycerine <SEP> 5 <SEP>%
<tb> Preservatives <SEP> 0.6 <SEP>%
<tb> Sanguisorba <SEP> officinalis * <SEP> 0.5 <SEP>%
<tb> Extract <SEP> of <SEP> Chrysanthemum <SEP> ** <SEP> 1 <SEP>%
<tb> Water <SEP> qsp <SEP> 100%
<Tb>
(*: Bumet Extract Powder marketed by Maruzen Pharmaceutical) (**: lyophilisate of aqueous extract of leaves of Chrysantemum sinensis) Example 3: cream in the form of oleosomes The emulsion having the following composition:

<Tb>
<tb> Apricot oil <SEP><SEP> 7 <SEP>%
<tb> Cyclohexasiloxane <SEP> 6 <SEP>%
<tb> Caprylic / Capric <SEP> Triglyceride <SEP> 7 <SEP>%
<tb> Stearic <SEP> acid <SEP> 1 <SEP>%
<tb> Polysorbate <SEP> 61 <SEP> 1.35 <SEP>%
<tb> Sucrose <SEP> tristearate <SEP> 2 <SEP>%
<tb> Xanthan <SEP> gum <SEP> 0.25 <SEP>%
<Tb>

<Desc / Clms Page number 17>

<Tb>
<tb> Aluminum <SEP> starch <SEP> octenylsuccinate <SEP> 3 <SEP>%
<tb> Carbomer <SEP> 0.3 <SEP>%
<tb> Glycerine <SEP> 5 <SEP>%
<tb> Propylene <SEP> glycol <SEP> 1 <SEP>%
<tb> Preservatives <SEP> 1.1 <SEP>%
<tb> Agent <SEP> of <SEP> surface <SEP> 5 <SEP>%
<tb> Extract <SEP> of <SEP> Chrysanthemum ** <SEP> 5 <SEP>%
<tb> Sanguisorba <SEP> officinalis * <SEP> 1 <SEP>%
<tb> Water <SEP> qsp <SEP> 100%
<Tb>
(*: Bumet Extract Powder marketed by Maruzen Pharmaceutical) (**: lyophilisate of aqueous extract of Chrysantemum sinensis leaves)

Claims (15)

 1. Cosmetic or dermatological composition, characterized in that it contains, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a combination of at least one activator of melanogenesis extracted from plant of the Rosaceae family and at least one activator of the Melanogenesis plant extract from the compound family 2. Cosmetic or dermatological composition, characterized in that it comprises in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one activator plant extract of the melanogenesis of the genus Sanguisorba and at least one plant extract activator melanogenesis of the genus Chrysanthemum. 3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2 characterized in that the plant extract of the genus Sanguisorba comes from the species Sanguisorba

 officinalis. 4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 characterized in that the plant extract of the genus Chrysantemum comes from the species Chrysantemum morifolium. 5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 characterized in that the plant extract of the genus Chrysantemum comes from the variety Chrysantemum

 morifolium sinensis. 6. Composition according to any one of claims 4 or 5 characterized in that the Chrysanthemum extract is prepared from plant leaves grown in vivo. 7. Composition according to claim 3 characterized in that the extract of Sanguisorba officinalis is prepared from roots and / or rhizomes of this species. <Desc / Clms Page number 19>  8. Composition according to claim 7 characterized in that the extract of Sanguisorba officinalis is a dry extract of roots and rhizomes.

 1 9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that each melanogenesis activator is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 10. Composition according to claim 9, characterized in that each melanogenesis activator is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.  11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it further contains at least one UV filter selected from chemical or physical filters.  12. Composition according to claim 11, characterized in that the UV filter is present in an amount ranging from 1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.  13. Cosmetic use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 for coloring the skin and / or the hair and / or the hair.  14. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 for the manufacture of a dermatological preparation for repigmenting the skin and / or the hair and / or hair.  15. Cosmetic treatment process comprising applying to the skin and / or the bristles and / or the hair of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12.