FR2831445A1 - Cosmetic composition contains skin peeling agent to maximize effects of compounds that induce skin pigmentation by acting on melanin biosynthesis - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition comprises at least one skin peeling (or desquamation) agent (I) and at least one melanogenesis activator (II) in a medium.

Description

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The present invention relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition intended for artificial coloring of the skin, characterized in that it comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one pro-desquamant and at least one activator of melanogenesis.

The invention also relates to the uses of this composition for coloring the skin.

Nowadays, it is important to look good and tanned skin is always a sign of good health. However, natural tanning is not always desirable as it requires prolonged exposure to UV radiation. They cause browning of the skin but in return are likely to induce an alteration thereof, especially in the case of sensitive skin or a continuous exposure to solar radiation. The skin ages prematurely, becomes dry and is characterized by many wrinkles and age spots. It is therefore desirable to find an alternative to natural tanning that is compatible with the requirements of such skins.

 There are also diseases of pigmentation such as vitiligo which is an autoimmune disease characterized by the appearance on the skin of white patches related to a defect of pigmentation.

 There is therefore a real need for products that facilitate and / or improve the pigmentation of the skin.

The biosynthesis of melanin, or melanogenesis, is a particularly complex process that involves schematically the following main steps: Tyrosine-> Dopa --->Dopaquinone->Dopachrome-> Melanin
Tyrosinase is one of the essential enzymes involved in this reaction sequence.
In particular, it catalyzes the transformation of tyrosine into DOPA and the transformation reaction of DOPA into Dopaquinone.

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 In the epidermis, the melanocyte is involved in the epidermal melanic unit which comprises a melanocyte surrounded by about 36 neighboring keratinocytes. All individuals, regardless of phototype, have approximately the same number of melanocytes for a given skin area. The ethnic differences, in terms of pigmentation, are not due to the number of melanocytes, but to the properties of their melanosomes. Melanosomes are aggregated into complexes and are small in size. These are highly specialized organelles whose sole function is the production of melanin. They are born from the endoplasmic reticulum in the form of spherical vacuoles called premelanosomes. Premelanosomes contain an amorphous protein substrate, but no melanogenic enzymes. During the maturation of the premelanosome, the amorphous substrate is organized into a fibrillar structure oriented in the longitudinal axis of the melanosome. There are four stages of development of melanosome corresponding to the intensity of melanization. Melanin is uniformly deposited on the inner fibrillar network of the melanosome and the opacity of the organelle increases to saturation. As melanin is synthesized in the melanosomes, they move from the perinuclear region to the end of the melanocyte dendrites. By phagocytosis, the end of the dendrites is captured by keratinocytes, degraded membranes and redistributed melanosomes in keratinocytes.

Although the level of melanin varies from one population to another, the amount of tyrosinase does not vary significantly and the messenger RNA level of tyrosinase is identical in white or black skin. The variations in melanogenesis are therefore due to variations in either the activity of tyrosinase or the ability of keratinocytes to phagocytose melanosomes.

 One proposed solution is to use compounds capable of activating the biological process of melanin biosynthesis or melanogenesis. In fact, the concentration in the keratinocytes of melanin produced by melanocytes is a determining factor for the color of the skin.

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 However, this solution has the disadvantage of leading to a non-uniform distribution of the pigmentation thus induced on the surface of the skin, resulting in an unpleasant aesthetic appearance.

The Applicant has now discovered that, surprisingly, the combination of pro-desquamants with a melanogenesis activator compound made it possible to potentiate the coloring effect, and to ensure a color retention with a much longer time, as well as a much higher homogeneity of the coloration.

By compounds of the pro-desquamating type, it is necessary to understand a compound capable of promoting desquamation. These derivatives have been described in the literature, most often to combat cutaneous aging, both intrinsically and extrinsically.

Flaking is a natural phenomenon due to the fact that the epidermis, which constitutes the upper layer of the skin, is in constant regeneration.

 The human epidermis consists of several layers of cells in which there are mainly four types of cells: the keratinocytes, very predominant, melanocytes, Langerhans cells and Merkel cells. The distribution of these cells in several superimposed layers explains the stratified nature of the epidermis.

The upper layer of the epidermis called the stratum corneum is composed of end-stage keratinocytes called corneocytes. Comteocytes are mummified, anucleate cells that derive from keratinocytes and are eliminated by desquamation. During the normal desquamation process, the most superficial comteocytes become detached from the surface of the epidermis. This loss of surface is compensated by the migration of cells from the basal layer to the surface of the epidermis. It is the perpetual renewal of the epidermis.
Compounding compounds cause forced removal of the stratum corneum and accelerate this renewal.

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Intercellular structures derived from desmosomes, called coméosomes or coméodesmosomes, have been described in the stratum corneum. Recent studies have shown their major importance in intercomaeocyte cohesion as well as in the desquamation process.

In the stratum corneum there is a close correlation between cell dissociation and proteolysis of certain comaeodosomal components such as desmoglein 1 and comesosmosin. Several trypsin-like or chymotrypsin-like serine proteases appear to be involved in the proteolysis of comteodesmosomes, such as in particular chymotrypsin-like or trypsin-like proteases (Lundström A., Egelrud T., The Journal of Investigative Dermatology; 340-343 and 1990, 84: 216-220). Unlike desquamating compounds, certain cosmetic active agents are capable of stimulating the degradation of comteodesmosome proteins. In particular compounds capable of promoting the degradation of the comedodesmosines promote the activity of the proteases involved in the desquamation process.

By "pro-desquamating compounds" within the meaning of the present invention is therefore meant compounds capable of promoting the degradation of the comeodesmosines.

Compounds of this type have been described in patent application EP-0852949 and have an amino acid structure. Carbohydrates have also been proposed to promote desquamation and thus combat the skin aging process in patent application FR-2 739 556. Finally, the Applicant recently discovered that the degradation of the coméodesmosines could be favored by structures such as aminosulfonic acid and methylglycine diacetic acid and its salts.

 To the knowledge of the Applicant, it has never been described in the prior art, the use of skin desquamation-promoting compounds in order to potentiate the effects of compounds capable of inducing skin pigmentation by acting on the biosynthesis of melanin.

 The subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition characterized in that it comprises, in a physiological medium,

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 acceptable, at least one pro-desquamant and at least one activator compound for melanogenesis.

The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use of this composition as a preparation for coloring the skin.

The invention further relates to the use of this composition for the manufacture of a dermatological preparation for coloring the skin.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process comprising the application on the skin of a composition according to the invention.

 By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium suitable for topical application to the skin or its integuments, that is to say, compatible with the skin, mucous membranes, hair and nails.

 Among the pro-desquamating compounds, ie promoting the degradation of the coméodesmosines, those having an amino acid structure such as described in the application EP-0 852 949 are suitable for the implementation of the present invention. Among these amino acids, alanine, leucine, isoleucine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, lysine, arginine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, histidine, tryptophan will be chosen more particularly. , asparagine, glutamine, or proline.

dans laquelle A représente une chaîne composée de une à vingt unités carbohydrate ou dérivé de carbohydrate, comprenant chacune 3 à 6 atomes de carbone, reliées entre elles, de préférence par des ponts acétals, chacune de ces unités pouvant être Other pro-desquamating compounds that are suitable for carrying out the invention are the carbohydrates described in application FR-2,739,556 and represented by formula (I):

in which A represents a chain composed of one to twenty carbohydrate units or carbohydrate derivative, each comprising 3 to 6 carbon atoms, connected to one another, preferably by acetal bridges, each of these units being

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 optionally substituted, for example by a halogen, by an amine function, an acid function, an ester function, a thiol, an alkoxy functional group, a thioether function, a thioester function, an amide function, a carbamate function, a urea function, R represents an alkyl chain or an alkenyl chain, comprising from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, branched or linear, may be interrupted by ether bridges, optionally carrying a hydroxyl function, a carboxylic acid function, an amine function, a ester function, an acyloxy function, an amide function, an ether function, a carbamate function, a urea function, and X represents a function linking R and A, for example an amine, ether, amide, ester, urea, carbamate function, thioester, thioether, sulfonamide.

Preferably, R represents an alkyl chain or an alkenyl chain comprising from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, branched or linear, optionally bearing a hydroxyl function.

Each of the carbohydrate component A units may be a sugar or a sugar derivative.
For example, each component unit A may be a reduced sugar, an amino sugar or a sugar bearing a carboxylic acid function.

cellobiose, la D-glucosamine, la D-galactosamine, le 2-déoxy-D-glucose, le 6-déoxy-Dgalactose, le 6-déoxy-L-galactose, le galactitol, le mésoérythritol, le D-érythrose, le Dfructose, le D-fucose, le L-fucose, l'acide D-galactarique, le galactitol, le galactomannane, le D-galactono-1, 4-lactone, le L-galactono-l, 4-lactone, la Dgalactosamine, le D-galactose, le L-galactose, l'acide D-galacturonique, le ss- Among the sugars, or sugar derivatives, which may be included in the constitution of A, mention may be made, for example, of the following products, which are commercially available, optionally in salt form: N-acetyl-D-galactosamine, N-acetyl -D-glucosamin, N-acetyl-neuraminic acid, adonitol, ss-D-allose, D-altrose, 6-amino-6-deoxy-D-glucose, 1,6-anhydroglucose, arabinic acid, arabinogalactan, D-arabinose, L-arabinose, D, L-arabinose, D-arabitol, L-arabitol, D-arabinose,

cellobiose, D-glucosamine, D-galactosamine, 2-deoxy-D-glucose, 6-deoxy-Dgalactose, 6-deoxy-L-galactose, galactitol, mesoerythritol, D-erythrose, Dfructose , D-fucose, L-fucose, D-galactaric acid, galactitol, galactomannan, D-galactono-1,4-lactone, L-galactono-1,4-lactone, D-galactosamine, D-galactose, L-galactose, D-galacturonic acid, ss-

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 gentiobiose, glucamine, D-glucaric acid, D-glucaric acid, D-glucono-1, 5-lactone, L-glucono-1,5-lactone, D-glucosamine, D-glucosamine acid , D-glucuronic acid, L-glucose, D-glucose, isomaltitol, isomaltotriose, isomaltose, lactobionic acid, D-lactose, lactulose, D-lyxose, L -lyxose, lyxosamine, maltitol, D-maltose, maltotetraose, maltotriitol, maltotriose, Dmannosamine, D-mannose, L-mannose, D-melezitose, D-melibiose, Draffinose, l-mannose D-raffinose undeca-acetate, L-rhamnose, D-ribose, L-ribose, Dribulose, rutinose, D-sucrose, a-sophorose, sorbitol, D-tagatose, Dtalose, D-threose, turanose, D-xylitol, D-xylose, L-xylose, D, L-xylose.

Preferably A will be selected from the following hydrocarbon chains: D-glucosamine or 2-amino-2-deoxy-D-glucose, D-glucamin or 1-amino-1-deoxy-D-glucitol, N-methyl -glucamine, D-glucose, D-maltose, sorbitol, maltitol.

Preferably, R 4 comprises 4 to 16 carbon atoms, for example the n-butyl, n-octyl, 2-ethylhexyl and n-dodecyl radicals.

 According to the invention, the compounds of formula (1) will advantageously be chosen from N-butanoyl-D-glucosamine, N-octanoyl-D-glucosamine, N-octyloxycarbonyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, N 2-ethylhexyloxycarbonyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, 6-O-octanoyl-D-glucose, 6'-O-octanoyl-D-maltose, and 6'-O-dodecanyl-D-maltose. 6'-O-octanoyl-D-maltose is particularly preferred.

dans laquelle : - R désigne un atome d'hydrogène ou un groupement choisi parmi-OH et-NH2, Other pro-desquamating compounds used in the compositions of the present invention are the aminosulphonic derivatives of formula (II) below:

in which: R denotes a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from -OH and -NH 2,

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- n est égal à 0, 1, 2 ou 3. X is: - an oxygen atom, - a group - a group

n is 0, 1, 2 or 3.

Advantageously, n is 0 or 1.

Among the compounds of formula (II), mention may be made by way of example and in a nonlimiting manner: 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-ethanesulfonic acid (or HEPES) which corresponds to the following formula:

- l'acide 4- (2-hydroxyéthyl) pipérazine-l- (2-hydroxypropanesulfonique) qui répond à la formule suivante :

- l'acide 4-(2-hydroxyéthyl)pipérazine-1-propanesulfonique qui répond à la formule suivante :

4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1- (2-hydroxypropanesulfonic acid) which corresponds to the following formula:

4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-propanesulfonic acid, which corresponds to the following formula:

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- l'acide 2-morpholinoéthanesulfonique qui répond à la formule suivante :

- l'acide pipérazine-I, 4-bis- (2-éthanesulfonique) qui répond à la formule suivante :

- l'acide pipérazine-l, 4-bis (2-hydroxypropane sulfonique) qui répond à la formule suivante :

Dans le cadre de la présente invention, par activateur de la mélanogénèse on entend un composé choisi parmi les substrats de la biosynthèse de la mélanine, et les activateurs biologiques de la mélanogénèse capables d'agir : - en stimulant la synthèse de mélanine, et/ou 3-morpholinopropanesulfonic acid, which corresponds to the following formula:

2-morpholinoethanesulphonic acid, which corresponds to the following formula:

piperazine-1,4-bis- (2-ethanesulphonic acid) which corresponds to the following formula:

piperazine-1,4-bis (2-hydroxypropanesulphonic acid) which corresponds to the following formula:

In the context of the present invention, by activator of melanogenesis is meant a compound chosen from the substrates of melanin biosynthesis, and the biological activators of melanogenesis capable of acting: by stimulating the synthesis of melanin, and or

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 by stimulating the activity orexpression of tyrosinase, possibly by increasing the level of intracellular cAMP or by activation of protein kinase C, and / or by stimulating the transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes, for example by stimulating PAR-2 receptors.

As substrates for the biosynthesis of melanin according to the invention, mention may be made of L-tyrosine, L-dihydrophenylalanine or L-DOPA (J. Invest Dermatol., 1997, 109, 796.

antagonistes des récepteurs adénosine-1 (par exemple la 1, 3-diméthyl-8cyclopentylxanthine ou la 1, 3-diisopropyl-8-cyclopentylxanthine), ou les agonistes de récepteurs adénosine-2 (par exemple la 2- [ (cyclohexyléthyl) amino] adénosine) tels que décrits dans W09815276 ; les complexes d'ions métalliques tels que le cuivre et de peptones tels qu'un hydrolysat protéique provenant du soja, du collagène ou de caséine, comme décrits dans le brevet US5,698, 184 ; les composés tels que décrits dans la demande de brevet W09951198 et choisis parmi les alpha-hydroxyacides (en particulier l'acide glycolique, lactique ou citrique) et leurs dérivés ; les béta-hydroxyacides et leurs dérivés ; les alpha-cétoacides et leurs dérivés ; les rétinoïdes et leurs dérivés (notamment la vitamine A) ; les catéchines et esters d'acides galliques de catéchines ou un extrait de thé vert tels que décrits dans le document W09966897 ; ou bien encore les extraits de plantes décrits par la Demanderesse dans les demandes de brevet W09913856 et EP0993826. Ces documents sont tous incorporés ici par référence. As compounds stimulating the synthesis of melanin according to the invention, mention may be made more particularly of the alpha or cyclic diols as described in J. Invest. Dermatol., 1998, 110, 4,428 (for example, 5-norbornen-2,2-dimethanol or 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol); isoelectric point peptides of between 6 and 11 as described in WO9937279 (for example, Asp-Gln-Pro-Leu-Leu-Thr-P peptide in which P is a hydrophobic amino acid such as Tryptophan Trp); the nucleopeptide complexes as described in WO9812212 (for example the complex formed by: puric acid-alanine-histidine-dibromophenylalanine-NH2); the

adenosine-1 receptor antagonists (e.g., 1,3-dimethyl-8-cyclopentylxanthine or 1,3-diisopropyl-8-cyclopentylxanthine), or adenosine-2 receptor agonists (e.g., 2- [(cyclohexylethyl) amino] adenosine) as described in WO9815276; complexes of metal ions such as copper and peptones such as a protein hydrolyzate from soybean, collagen or casein, as described in US Pat. No. 5,698,184; the compounds as described in the patent application WO9951198 and chosen from alpha-hydroxy acids (in particular glycolic, lactic or citric acid) and their derivatives; beta-hydroxy acids and their derivatives; alpha-ketoacids and their derivatives; retinoids and their derivatives (especially vitamin A); catechins and esters of gallic acids of catechins or a green tea extract as described in WO9966897; or else the plant extracts described by the Applicant in patent applications WO9913856 and EP0993826. These documents are all incorporated herein by reference.

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Parmi les composés stimulant l'activité ou l'expression de la tyrosinase selon l'invention, on peut citer les prostaglandines telles que décrites dans la demande de brevet W09800100 ; les activateurs de NO/cGMP/protéine kinase C par exemple l'isosorbidedinitrate/cGMP/protéine kinase C (W09811882) ; ou bien encore les extraits de plantes choisis parmi Caesapinia sappan (EP820761), Parameria laevigata, Piper cubeba, Sonchus arvensis, Pluchea indica L., Massoia aromatica, Alstonia scholars, Alycia reindwartii Bl., Cinnamomum sintoc, Arctostaphylos, Chenopodium, Poterium, Gautheria (EP914816). Ces documents sont tous incorporés ici par référence. Selon l'invention, les composés stimulant l'expression de la tyrosinase par augmentation du taux d'AMPc intracellulaire, sont avantageusement choisi parmi les peptides pro-opiomélanocortiques ; les alpha-MSH ou analogues d'alpha-MSH (par exemple Ac-[D]Phe-a-MSHl-13-NH2) ; ou les agonistes des récepteurs MC1R (US5, 683, 981, W09825584), les analogues de l'AMPc tels que décrits dans Biochem. Biophys. Res. Comm., 1987, 145, 719, la Forskoline (J. Int. Med Res., 1990, 18, 8C- 17C, et les bases xanthiques (par exemple la caféine ou la théophylline). Ces documents sont tous incorporés ici par référence.

Among the compounds stimulating the activity or expression of the tyrosinase according to the invention, mention may be made of the prostaglandins as described in the patent application WO9800100; activators of NO / cGMP / protein kinase C eg isosorbidedinitrate / cGMP / protein kinase C (WO9811882); or else the extracts of plants selected from Caesapinia sappan (EP820761), Parameria laevigata, Piper cubeba, Sonchus arvensis, Pluchea indica L., Massoia aromatica, Alstonia scholars, Alycia reindwartii Bl., Cinnamomum sintoc, Arctostaphylos, Chenopodium, Poterium, Gautheria (EP914816). These documents are all incorporated herein by reference. According to the invention, the compounds stimulating the expression of tyrosinase by increasing the level of intracellular cAMP, are advantageously chosen from pro-opiomelanocortic peptides; alpha-MSH or alpha-MSH analogs (e.g., Ac- [D] Phe-a-MSH1-13-NH2); or MC1R receptor agonists (US5, 683, 981, WO9825584), cAMP analogs as described in Biochem. Biophys. Res. Comm., 1987, 145, 719, Forskolin (J. Int Med res., 1990, 18, 8C-17C, and xanthine bases (e.g., caffeine or theophylline) These are all incorporated herein by reference. .

As compounds stimulating the expression of tyrosinase by activation of protein kinase C, mention may be made of diacylglycerols as described in J. Invest. Dermatol., 1995, 105, 5, 687, or psoralens such as those described in Photodermatol. Photoimmunol. Photomed., 1997, 13, 9. These documents are all incorporated herein by reference.

Finally, compounds stimulating the transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes by stimulation of PAR-2 receptors or of PAR-2 agonists (for example the peptide of composition Ser-Leu-Ile-Gly-Arg-Leu) have been described in patent application WO9904752 which is incorporated herein by reference.

An advantageous aspect of the invention relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition characterized in that it comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one pro-desquamant and at least one plant extract activator.

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 melanogenesis selected from the genera Sanguisorba and Chrysanthemum, and more particularly the species Sanguisorba officinalis and Chrysanthemum morifolium.

Sanguisorba officinalis is a herbaceous plant of temperate regions, still called Grande Pimprenelle, which belongs to the Rosaceae family. The root of Sanguisorba officinalis consists essentially of phenolic compounds and triterpene glycosides. Phenolic compounds include caffeic acid and chlorogenic acid, single coumarins and furocoumarins, but especially tannins and in particular ellagitannins, as well as catechols and gallocatechols.

Sanguisorba officinalis also contains organic acids (quinic and tiglic acids) and an essential oil containing terpenoids.

The use of extracts of Sanguisorba officinalis as stimulator of melanogenesis has been described by the Applicant in the patent application EP0993826.

 According to the present invention it will be preferred to use an extract of Sanguisorba officinalis prepared from roots and / or rhizomes of this species.

Preferably, according to the invention, a dry root and rhizome extract is used.
Sanguisorba officinalis, which can be obtained in powder form from
MARUZEN PHARMACEUTICALS CO., LTD (Bumet Extract Powder).

The genus Chrysanthemum belongs to the Compositae family, which belongs to the order Asteracae (or Asteraceae). The genus Chrysanthemum comprises about 200 species from Europe and Asia, including Chrysanthemum hortorum, Chrysanthemum morifolium, Chrysanthemum coronarium,
Chrysanthemum myconis, Chrysanthemum sagitum, Chrysanthemum indicum, or
Chrysanthemum segetum
The plant extract of the genus Chrysanthemum may be any extract prepared from any plant material derived from a plant of the genus Chrysanthemum grown in vivo or derived from in vitro culture.

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By in vivo culture is meant any culture of conventional type, ie in soil in the open air or in the greenhouse, or above ground.

By in vitro culture is meant all the techniques known to those skilled in the art which artificially allows the production of a plant or part of a plant.

The use of extracts of Chrysanthemum as a stimulator of melanogenesis has been described by the Applicant in the patent application WO9913856.

For example, it is possible to use, for example, according to the present invention, an extract of various parts of the plant: leaves, flowers, stems, roots, undifferentiated cells, alone or as a mixture, whether the plant is cultured in vivo or in vitro.

 The selection pressure imposed by the physicochemical conditions during the growth of the plant cells in vitro makes it possible to obtain standardized plant material that is available throughout the year, unlike plants grown in vivo.

 By plant extract of the genus Chrysanthemum is meant both a crude mixture of parts of the plant roughly reduced in pieces and the extraction solvent as prepared preparations solubilized active ingredients during extraction. A particularly usable extract according to the invention is achieved by fine grinding of parts of the plant followed by maceration in the extraction solvent and finally filtration.

 Of course, the extract according to the invention may be each of the extracts thus obtained used alone or as a mixture with one or more of the other extracts.

Preferably, an extract obtained from plant material cultivated in vivo and even more particularly an extract obtained from plant leaves of the genus is used.
Chrysanthemum grown in vivo.

A plant originating from Chrysanthemum morifolium is preferably used.
This species has many varieties among which we can mention the variety

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 sinensis, which is particularly suitable for an implementation of the present invention.

The amounts of pro-desquamant and melanogenesis activator compound contained in the composition according to the invention are chosen so as to obtain a fast and durable coloration over time, and are likely to vary according to the desired effect.

In general, the pro-desquamating agent may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, and preferably in an amount of between 0.5 and 10% of the total weight of the composition.

For its part, the compound activating melanogenesis is present in the composition in an amount of between 0.1 to 15% by weight, and preferably in an amount of between 0.5 and 5% of the total weight of the composition.

Of course, if the activator of melanogenesis is present in the form of a solution containing a plant extract, the person skilled in the art will be able to adjust the amount of this solution in the composition according to the invention so as to obtain the concentration ranges below. above.

 The composition of the invention may be in any of the galenical forms conventionally used for topical application and especially in the form of aqueous, hydroalcoholic or oily solutions, oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-water emulsions. oil (W / O) or multiple (triple: W / O / W or O / W / W), aqueous or oily gels, liquid, pasty or solid anhydrous products, or dispersions of a fatty phase in one phase water using spherules, these spherules may be polymeric nanoparticles such as nanospheres and nanocapsules, or lipid vesicles of ionic and / or nonionic type. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

 This composition may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a mousse . It can optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. She

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 can also be in solid form, and for example in the form of a stick. It may alternatively be in the form of shampoo or conditioner.

When the composition used according to the invention comprises an oily phase, it preferably contains at least one oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.

As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or else, for example, sunflower, corn or soybean oils, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810,812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil; esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas RICOOR2 and R'OW in which R1 represents the residue of a fatty acid comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a chain hydrocarbon, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for example
Purcellin, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate isostearyl; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam oil;

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 fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol; partially fluorinated hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912; silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; - their mixtures.

 By hydrocarbon oil is meant in the list of oils mentioned above, any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.

 The other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, waxes Fischer-Tropsch; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-C 1-4 alkyl dimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; and silicone elastomers such as the products sold under the names KSG by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names Trefil, BY29 or EPSX by the company Dow Corning or under the names Gransil by the company Grant Industries.

<Desc / Clms Page number 17>

 These fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or texture.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion. The proportion of the oily phase of the emulsion can range from 5 to 90% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture, and optionally a co-emulsifier. The emulsifiers are suitably selected according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W).

The emulsifier and the co-emulsifier are generally present in the composition, in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The emulsion may further contain lipid vesicles.

For the W / O emulsions, examples of emulsifiers that may be mentioned include dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name DC 5225 C by Dow Coming, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Coming 5200 Formulation Aid" by the company Dow Coming and the
Cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 90R by the company
Goldschmidt. It is also possible to use, as surfactant of W / O emulsions, a crosslinked elastomeric solid organopolysiloxane comprising at least one oxyalkylenated group, such as those obtained according to the procedure of Examples 3,4 and 8 of US-A-5,412,004 and examples of US-A-5,811,487, especially the product of Example 3 (synthetic example) of US-A-5,412,004 and such as that marketed under the reference KSG 21 by the company Shin Etsu . Finally can also

<Desc / Clms Page number 18>

utiliser comme émulsionnant des polyoléfines à terminaison succinique comme les polyisobutènes à terminaison succinique estérifiée et leurs sels, notamment les sels de diéthanolamine tels que les produits commercialisés par la société LUBRIZOL sous les dénominations Lubrizol 2724, Lubrizol 2722 et Lubrizol 5603.

use as emulsifier of succinically terminated polyolefins such as ester-terminated polyisobutenes and their salts, especially the diethanolamine salts such as the products sold by LUBRIZOL under the names Lubrizol 2724, Lubrizol 2722 and Lubrizol 5603.

For O / W emulsions, mention may be made, for example, as emulsifiers, of nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid and sorbitan esters; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); sugar esters such as methyl glucose stearate marketed by Amerchol under the name of glutamate SSE 20, sucrose stearate; and mixtures thereof such as the mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-40 stearate.

In known manner, the cosmetic or dermatological composition of the invention may also contain adjuvants usual in the cosmetic or dermatological field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, fragrances, fillers, UV filters, bactericides, odor absorbers, dyestuffs, salts. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase and / or into the lipid spherules: As fillers which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, in addition to the pigments , silica powder; talcum; polyamide particles and in particular those sold under the name ORGASOL by the company Atochem; polyethylene powders; micro-spheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate copolymer! lauryl methacrylate sold by the company Dow Coming under the name of POLYTRAP; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and in particular,

<Desc / Clms Page number 19>

 the microspheres marketed under the name EXPANCEL by the company Kemanord Plast or under the name MICROPEARL F 80 ED by the company Matsumoto; silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the name Tospearl by the company Toshiba Silicone; and their mixtures. These fillers may be present in amounts ranging from 0 to 20% by weight and preferably from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition used according to the invention contains at least one UV filter (or sunscreen) which may be a chemical filter or a physical filter or a mixture of such filters.

By way of illustration and in a nonlimiting manner, mention may be made of the following families (the names correspond to the CTFA nomenclature of the filters): anthranilates, in particular menthyl anthranilate; benzophenones, in particular benzophenone-1, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-5, benzophenone-6, benzophenone-8, benzophenone-9, benzophenone-12, and preferentially benzophenone-2 (oxybenzone), or Benzophenone-4 (Uvinul MS40 available from BASF); benzylidenes-camphors, in particular
3-benzylidenecamphor, benzylidenecamphosulfonic acid, camphor benzalkonium methosulphate, polyacrylamidomethylbenzylidene camphor, terephthalylidene di-camphorsulfonic acid, and preferentially 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (Eusolex 6300 available from Merck); benzimidazoles, in particular benzimidazilate (Neo Heliopan AP available from
Haarmann and Reimer), or phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (Eusolex 232 available from Merck); benzotriazoles, in particular trisiloxane drometzol, or methylene bis-benzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol (Tinosorb M available from
Ciba); cinnamates, in particular cinoxate, DEA methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methylcinnamate, dimethoxycinnamate glyceryl ethylhexanoate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl cinnamate, and preferably ethocrylene (Uvinul N35 available from BASF), octyl methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX available from Hoffmann La Roche), or octocrylene (Uvinul 539 available from BASF); dibenzoylmethanes, especially butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789); imidazoline, in particular ethylhexyl

<Desc / Clms Page number 20>

 dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline; PABAs, in particular ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, ethylhexyldimethyl PABA, glyceryl PABA, PABA, PEG-25 PABA, and preferentially diethylhexylbutamido-triazone (Uvasorb HEB available from 3V Sigma), ethylhexyltriazone (Uvinul T150 available from BASF), or ethyl PABA (benzocaine); salicylates, especially dipropylene glycol salicyclate, ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate, or TEA salicylate; triazines, in particular anisotriazine (Tinosorb S available from Ciba); drometrizole trisiloxane, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.

The amount of filters depends on the desired end use. It may range, for example, from 1 to 20% by weight and better still from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The examples which follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. The names are, as the case may be, in chemical names or International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (CTFA) names, and the percentages by weight unless otherwise indicated.

Example 1 Bronzing Emulsion
A emulsion having the following composition is prepared in a conventional manner for a person skilled in the art:

<Tb>
<tb> Apricot oil <SEP><SEP> 6 <SEP>%
<tb> Cyclohexasiloxane <SEP> 10 <SEP>%
<tb> Stearyl <SEP> alcohol <SEP> (and) <SEP> ceteareth <SEP> 20 <SEP> 2 <SEP>%
<tb> Methylglucose <SEP> sesquistearate <SEP> 2 <SEP>%
<tb> Xanthan <SEP> gum <SEP> 0.25 <SEP>%
<tb> Aluminum <SEP> starch <SEP> octenylsuccinate <SEP> 3 <SEP>%
<tb> Glycerine <SEP> 5 <SEP>%
<tb> Preservatives <SEP> 0.6 <SEP>%
<tb>6'-O-octanoyl-D-maltose<SEP> 3 <SEP>%
<tb> Sanguisorba <SEP> officinalis * <SEP> 1 <SEP>%
<Tb>

<Desc / Clms Page number 21>

<Tb>
<tb> Water <SEP> qsp <SEP> 100 <SEP>%
<Tb>
(*: Bumet Extract Powder marketed by Maruzen Pharmaceutical) This composition can be used in single-or two-day application to obtain a natural and durable natural color of the skin.

Example 2: oleosome type cream A emulsion having the following composition is prepared in a conventional manner for a person skilled in the art:

<Tb>
<tb> Apricot oil <SEP><SEP> 7 <SEP>%
<tb> Cyclohexasiloxane <SEP> 6 <SEP>%
<tb> Caprylic / Capric <SEP> Triglyceride <SEP> 7 <SEP>%
<tb> Stearic <SEP> acid <SEP> 1 <SEP>%
<tb> Polysorbate <SEP> 61 <SEP> 1, <SEP> 35 <SEP>%
<tb> Sucrose <SEP> tristearate <SEP> 2 <SEP>%
<tb> Xanthan <SEP> gum <SEP> 0, <SEP> 25 <SEP>%
<tb> Aluminum <SEP> starch <SEP> octenylsuccinate <SEP> 3 <SEP>%
<tb> Carbomer <SEP> 0.3 <SEP>%
<tb> Glycerine <SEP> 5 <SEP>%
<tb> Propylene <SEP> Glycol <SEP> 1 <SEP>%
<tb> Preservatives <SEP> 1.1 <SEP>%
<tb> HEPES <SEP> 5 <SEP>%
<tb> Extract <SEP> of <SEP> chrysanthemum * <SEP> 5 <SEP>%
<tb> Water <SEP> qsp <SEP> 100 <SEP>%
<Tb>
(*: lyophilisate of aqueous extract of leaves of Chrysantemum sinensis)

Claims (27)

 1. Cosmetic composition characterized in that it comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one pro-desquamant and at least one compound activating melanogenesis. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the pro-desquamant is an amino acid selected from alanine, leucine, isoleucine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, lysine, arginine , phenylalanine, tyrosine, histidine, tryptophan, asparagine, glutamine, and proline. 3. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the pro-desquamant is a carbohydrate of formula (I): RXA (I), wherein A represents a chain composed of one to twenty carbohydrate units or carbohydrate derivative, each comprising 3 to 6 carbon atoms, connected to each other, preferably by acetal bridges, each of these units possibly being substituted, for example by a halogen, by an amine function, an acid function, an ester function, a thiol, an alkoxy functional group, a thioether function, a thioester function, an amide function, a carbamate function, a function urea, R represents an alkyl chain or an alkenyl chain, comprising from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, branched or linear, which may be interrupted by ether bridges, optionally carrying a hydroxyl function, a carboxylic acid function, an amine function, an ester function, an acyloxy function, an amide function, an ether function, a carbamate function, a urea function, and X represents a function linking R and A, such as, for example, an amine, ether, amide, ester, urea, carbamate, thioester, thioether or sulphonamide function. <Desc / Clms Page number 23>

 4. Composition according to claim 3, characterized in that the pro-desquamant is a carbohydrate selected from N-butanoyl-D-glucosamine, N-octanoyl-Dglucosamin, N-octyloxycarbonyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, N-2-ethylhexyloxycarbonyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, 6-O-octanoyl-D-glucose, 6'-O-octanoyl-D-maltose, and 6'-O-dodecanoyl-D -maltose. 5. Composition according to claim 4, characterized in that the pro-desquamant is 6'-O-octanoyl-D-maltose. 6. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the pro-desquamant is an aminosulfonic derivative of formula (II) below:

 in which: - R denotes a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from -OH and -NH - X denotes: - an oxygen atom, - a group - a group

 n is 0, 1, 2 or 3. 7. Composition according to claim 6, characterized in that the pro-desquamant is an aminosulphonic derivative chosen from: - 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-ethanesulphonic acid (or HEPES) which corresponds to the following formula: <Desc / Clms Page number 24>  piperazine-1,4-bis- (2-ethanesulfonic acid) which corresponds to the following formula:

 2-morpholinoethanesulphonic acid, which corresponds to the following formula:

 3-morpholinopropanesulfonic acid, which corresponds to the following formula:

 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-propanesulfonic acid, which corresponds to the following formula:

 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1- (2-hydroxypropanesulfonic acid) which corresponds to the following formula:

<Desc / Clms Page number 25>

 piperazine-1,4-bis (2-hydroxypropanesulphonic acid) which corresponds to the following formula:

 8. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the activator of melanogenesis is selected from the substrates of the biosynthesis of melanin, and the biological activators of melanogenesis capable of acting by stimulating the synthesis of melanin, by stimulating the activity or expression of tyrosinase by increasing intracellular cAMP levels or by activation of protein kinase C, or by stimulating the transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes. 9. Composition according to claim 8, characterized in that the activator of melanogenesis is chosen from L-tyrosine, L-dihydrophenylalanine, L- DOPA, aliphatic diols, cyclic diols, isoelectric point peptides between 6 and 11, adenosine-1 receptor antagonists, adenosine-2 receptor agonists, alpha-hydroxy acids and their derivatives, beta-hydroxy acids and their derivatives, alpha-ketoacids and their derivatives, retinoids and their derivatives, vitamin A, catechins, gallic acid esters of catechins, green tea extracts, plant extracts, prostaglandins, activators of NO / cGMP / protein kinase C, pro-opiomelanocortic peptides, alpha-MSH, alpha-MSH analogs, MCLR agonists, cAMP analogues, Forskolin, xanthine bases, diacylglycerols, psoralens PAR-2 receptor agonists. <Desc / Clms Page number 26> 10. Composition according to claim 9, characterized in that the activator of melanogenesis is an extract of plants selected from Caesapinia sappan, Primameria

 laevigata, Piper cubeba, Sonchus arvensis, Pluchea indica L., Massoia aromatica, Alstonia scholars, Alycia reindwartii BI., Cinnamomum sintoc, Arctostaphylos, Chenopodium, Poterium, Gautheria, Sanguisorba officinalis and Chrysanthemum. 11. A composition according to claim 10, characterized in that it comprises a pro desquamant and a plant extract of the genus Sanguisorba. 12. Composition according to claim 10, characterized in that it comprises a prod desquamant and a plant extract of the species Sanguisorba officinalis. 13. Composition according to claim 12, characterized in that the extract of Sanguisorba officinalis is prepared from roots and / or rhizomes of this species. 14. Composition according to claim 12, characterized in that the extract of Sanguisorba officinalis is a dry extract of roots and rhizomes. 15. Composition according to claim 10, characterized in that it comprises a pro desquamant and a plant extract of the genus Chrysanthemum. 16. Composition according to claim 15, characterized in that it comprises a prod desquant and an extract of plants of the species Chrysanthemum morifolium.  17. Composition according to any one of claims 15 or 16 characterized in that the Chrysanthemum extract is prepared from plant leaves grown in vivo. <Desc / Clms Page number 27> 18. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17, characterized in that the pro-desquamant is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 19. Composition according to claim 18, characterized in that the pro-desquamant is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 20. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 19, characterized in that the melanogenesis activator is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 21. Composition according to claim 20, characterized in that the melanogenesis activator is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 22. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 21, characterized in that it further contains at least one UV filter selected from chemical or physical filters. 23. Composition according to claim 22, characterized in that the UV filter is present in an amount ranging from 1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 24. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 23 for the manufacture of a dermatological preparation for repigmenting the skin. 25. Cosmetic use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 23 for coloring the skin. <Desc / Clms Page number 28> 26. A cosmetic skin treatment method comprising the application on the skin of a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one pro-desquamant and at least one melanogenesis-activating compound. 27. Cosmetic process according to claim 26, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one pro-desquamant and at least one activator of melanogenesis chosen from the substrates of the biosynthesis of melanin, the biological activators of melanogenesis capable of acting by stimulating melanin synthesis, and / or by stimulating the activity or expression of tyrosinase, or by stimulating the transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes.