FR2814943A1 - Coloring composition for skin and keratin fibers, comprises color precursor and catalytic system containing salts or oxides of manganese and-or zinc and alkaline hydrocarbonates - Google Patents
Coloring composition for skin and keratin fibers, comprises color precursor and catalytic system containing salts or oxides of manganese and-or zinc and alkaline hydrocarbonates Download PDFInfo
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/04—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically tanning the skin
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- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
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- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/27—Zinc; Compounds thereof
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- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/347—Phenols
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- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/498—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin
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- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
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- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
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- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9794—Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
- A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
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Abstract
Description
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La présente invention concerne d'une manière générale une composition de coloration, en particulier pour la coloration de la peau et/ou des fibres kératiniques, un procédé d'obtention d'une telle composition de coloration et son utilisation pour la coloration de la peau et/ou des fibres kératiniques. The present invention relates generally to a coloring composition, in particular for dyeing the skin and / or keratin fibers, a process for obtaining such a coloring composition and its use for coloring the skin. and / or keratinous fibers.
Dans le domaine de la coloration de la peau et/ou des fibres kératiniques telles que les cheveux, les cils, les sourcils et les poils, on utilise à l'heure actuelle des catalyseurs enzymatiques pour activer la coloration de précurseurs de coloration. Ainsi, on active la coloration de polyphénols par oxydation en présence de polyphénoloxydase naturelle. A titre d'exemple, de la catéchine, en présence de polyphénoloxydase naturelle, donne une coloration jaune orangée et les dihydroxyphénylanaline (L. DOPA) donne de la mélanine. L'avantage principal de ces catalyseurs enzymatiques consiste en l'obtention de pigments de couleurs et de nuances originales, sans utilisation de composés oxydants. Cependant, l'inconvénient majeur de ce procédé de coloration est l'utilisation d'enzymes, pour lesquels les risques toxicologiques, la stabilité dans les compositions, la reproductibilité, le prix et l'immobilisation souvent nécessaire sont des facteurs qui limitent grandement leurs applications. In the field of dyeing of the skin and / or keratinous fibers such as the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and the hairs, enzymatic catalysts are currently used to activate the coloration of color precursors. Thus, the coloration of polyphenols by oxidation is activated in the presence of natural polyphenoloxidase. By way of example, catechin, in the presence of natural polyphenoloxidase, gives an orange-yellow coloring and dihydroxyphenylanaline (L. DOPA) gives melanin. The main advantage of these enzymatic catalysts consists of obtaining pigments of colors and original shades, without the use of oxidizing compounds. However, the major disadvantage of this staining process is the use of enzymes, for which the toxicological risks, the stability in the compositions, the reproducibility, the price and the immobilization often necessary are factors which greatly limit their applications. .
D'autre part, ces catalyseurs sont de nature protéique et l'utilisation de protéines n'est pas sans risque pour une utilisation en cosmétologie ou en dermatologie, notamment en raison des réactions de sensibilisation. On the other hand, these catalysts are of a protein nature and the use of proteins is not without risk for use in cosmetology or dermatology, in particular because of sensitization reactions.
L'utilisation de catalyseurs enzymatiques dans les préparations cosmétiques du type auto-bronzant ne permet pas toujours une coloration homogène de la peau. L'application sur l'ensemble du corps de compositions contenant de la dihydroxyacétone (ou DHA), typiquement utilisée dans ce type d'application, est longue et fastidieuse, et l'obtention d'une coloration homogène est difficile. The use of enzymatic catalysts in cosmetic preparations of the self-tanning type does not always allow a uniform coloration of the skin. The application throughout the body of compositions containing dihydroxyacetone (or DHA), typically used in this type of application, is long and tedious, and obtaining a uniform coloration is difficult.
Dans le domaine des crèmes bronzantes et autobronzantes, une amélioration a été obtenue en utilisant à la place des catalyseurs enzymatiques, des catalyseurs chimiques. Ainsi, la demande WO 92/20321 A décrit une crème favorisant le brunissement de peaux claires lors d'une exposition au soleil ou à des rayons UVB, dont la composition comprend un écran solaire, un milieu physiologiquement acceptable et une pseudocatalase. La pseudocatalase est un complexe de coordination d'un métal de transition dont le métal est Cu (I), Fe (tri) ou Mn (II) et le ligand du bicarbonate. Par pseudocatalase, on entend un In the field of bronzing and self-tanning creams, an improvement has been obtained by using instead of enzymatic catalysts, chemical catalysts. Thus, the application WO 92/20321 A describes a cream promoting the browning of fair skin during exposure to the sun or UVB rays, the composition of which comprises a sunscreen, a physiologically acceptable medium and a pseudocatalase. The pseudocatalase is a coordination complex of a transition metal whose metal is Cu (I), Fe (tri) or Mn (II) and the ligand of bicarbonate. By pseudocatalase is meant a
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composé physiologiquement acceptable qui catalyse la dismutation de H202 in vivo de manière analogue à une catalase.
physiologically acceptable compound which catalyzes the disproportionation of H 2 O 2 in vivo in a catalase-like manner.
Pour le traitement de la dépigmentation de la peau liée à des blocages de la transformation de la tyrosine en mélanine, comme par exemple le vitiligo, la demande WO 92/20354 décrit une composition contenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, une pseudocatalase. For the treatment of skin depigmentation linked to blockages of the transformation of tyrosine into melanine, such as for example vitiligo, the application WO 92/20354 describes a composition containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a pseudocatalase.
Cette pseudocatalase est un complexe de coordination de Fe (tri), Cu (I) ou Mn (tri), le ligand étant du bicarbonate. This pseudocatalase is a coordination complex of Fe (tri), Cu (I) or Mn (tri), the ligand being bicarbonate.
L'article de K. Schallreuter ( Pseudocatalase is a bis-manganese III- EDTA- (HC03) 2 complex activated by UVB or natural sun ; J Investing Dermator Symp Proc 1999 Sep ; 451 ; 91-6) mentionne l'utilisation d'un mélange d'hyrogénocarbonate de sodium et de manganèse ayant une activité pseudocatalase pour le traitement du vitiligo. Cependant, il n'y a pas, dans l'ensemble de ces documents, d'indication concernant la coloration. The article by K. Schallreuter (Pseudocatalase is a bis-manganese III-EDTA- (HC03) 2 complex activated by UVB or natural sun; J Investing Dermator Symp Proc 1999 Sep; 451; 91-6) mentions the use of a mixture of sodium hyrogenocarbonate and manganese having a pseudocatalase activity for the treatment of vitiligo. However, there is no indication in all these documents concerning the coloring.
Dans le domaine de la coloration capillaire, le brevet européen EP 621.029 A décrit une composition comprenant du chlorite de sodium, un sel hydrosoluble de Fe, Mn ou Cu, ou un chélate de ce sel et un précurseur de colorant d'oxydation. In the field of hair dyeing, the European patent EP 621.029 A describes a composition comprising sodium chlorite, a water-soluble salt of Fe, Mn or Cu, or a chelate of this salt and an oxidation dye precursor.
La coloration des cheveux nécessite l'emploi de combinaisons H202-
.. ammonium ou aminé. Hair coloring requires the use of H202-
.. ammonium or amine.
Il existe donc un besoin pour des compositions de coloration, en particulier pour la coloration de la peau et/ou des fibres kératiniques, ne nécessitant pas l'utilisation de systèmes enzymatiques. There is therefore a need for staining compositions, in particular for dyeing the skin and / or keratinous fibers, not requiring the use of enzymatic systems.
La demanderesse a trouvé, de manière tout à fait surprenante, qu'il était possible d'obtenir des compositions de coloration comprenant au moins un précurseur de colorant susceptible de se colorer, en présence d'oxygène, par oxydation au moyen d'un système enzymatique (oxydase), en remplaçant le système enzymatique par un système purement chimique. The Applicant has found, quite surprisingly, that it is possible to obtain coloring compositions comprising at least one dye precursor capable of staining, in the presence of oxygen, by oxidation by means of a system. enzymatic (oxidase), replacing the enzymatic system with a purely chemical system.
Ainsi, le système catalytique chimique de l'invention se comporte comme une pseudo-oxydase capable de mimer l'activité oxydase sans les inconvénients liés à l'emploi d'un système enzymatique. Thus, the chemical catalytic system of the invention behaves as a pseudo-oxidase capable of mimicking the oxidase activity without the disadvantages associated with the use of an enzymatic system.
La présente invention a donc pour objet une composition de coloration, en particulier pour la coloration de la peau et/ou des fibres kératiniques, qui ne nécessite pas la présence d'enzymes. The subject of the present invention is therefore a dyeing composition, in particular for dyeing the skin and / or keratin fibers, which does not require the presence of enzymes.
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La présente invention concerne également un procédé pour révéler la coloration d'une composition de base peu ou pas colorée comprenant au moins un précurseur de colorant par oxydation qui consiste à ajouter à la composition de base un système catalytique purement chimique et à mettre la composition de base additionnée du système catalytique en présence d'un milieu oxydant tel qu'un milieu contenant de l'oxygène.
The present invention also relates to a method for revealing the coloration of a base composition with little or no color comprising at least one oxidation dye precursor which consists of adding to the base composition a purely chemical catalytic system and to put the composition of base addition of the catalyst system in the presence of an oxidizing medium such as an oxygen-containing medium.
La présente invention a encore pour objet un procédé d'obtention d'une composition de coloration telle que définie ci-dessus. The present invention also relates to a process for obtaining a coloring composition as defined above.
La présente invention concerne en outre un procédé de coloration de la peau et/ou des fibres kératiniques utilisant une composition telle que définie cidessus. The present invention further relates to a method of dyeing the skin and / or keratin fibers using a composition as defined above.
Enfin, la présente invention concerne des conditionnements et formes galéniques de la composition de coloration ou de constituants de la composition de coloration selon l'invention
La composition pour la coloration de la peau et/ou des fibres kératiniques selon l'invention comprend, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, une quantité efficace d'au moins un précurseur de colorant choisi parmi les composés comportant au moins un cycle aromatique ayant au moins deux groupes hydroxyle (OH) portés par deux atomes de carbone consécutifs du cycle aromatique et une quantité efficace d'un système catalytique comprenant un premier constituant choisi parmi les sels et oxydes de Mn (II), et/ou Zn (II) et leurs mélanges et un second constituant choisi parmi les hydrogénocarbonates alcalins, les hydrogénocarbonates alcalino-terreux et leurs mélanges, les
proportions du premier constituant et du second constituant étant telles que :
[Mn (7 (II)] IHCO31 < lavec [Zn (II)] 0 [COJ M7/) +Z. (//)] [HCO3]
où [Mn (II)], [Zn (II)] et [HCO3] représentent respectivement les concentrations molaires en Mn (II), Zn (II) et HCO3 dans la composition. Finally, the present invention relates to packaging and dosage forms of the coloring composition or constituents of the coloring composition according to the invention.
The composition for coloring the skin and / or keratin fibers according to the invention comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an effective amount of at least one dye precursor chosen from compounds comprising at least one aromatic ring having at least one two hydroxyl (OH) groups carried by two consecutive carbon atoms of the aromatic ring and an effective amount of a catalytic system comprising a first component selected from the salts and oxides of Mn (II), and / or Zn (II) and their mixtures and a second component selected from alkaline hydrogen carbonates, alkaline earth hydrogencarbonates and mixtures thereof,
proportions of the first constituent and the second constituent being such that:
[Mn (7 (II)] 1HCO3 2 <lavec [Zn (II)] O [COJ M7 /) + Z. (//)] [HCO3]
where [Mn (II)], [Zn (II)] and [HCO3] represent the molar concentrations of Mn (II), Zn (II) and HCO3 respectively in the composition.
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[mn (II) lGénéralement, le rapport [Mn varie de 10-5 à 10-1, de préférence de [HCOJ 10-3 à 10-2 et est typiquement de l'ordre de 5. 10-3. [mn (II)] Generally, the ratio [Mn ranges from 10-5 to 10-1, preferably from [HCO] 10-3 to 10-2 and is typically of the order of 5. 10-3.
Dans le cas de Zn (II), le rapport'-'est en général d'un ordre de 10 IHCO31
à 100 fois supérieur au rapport dans le cas de Mn (tri). In the case of Zn (II), the ratio '-' is generally of the order of 10 IHCO31
100 times higher than the ratio in the case of Mn (sorting).
Typiquement, ce rapport est de 10-4 ou plus, de préférence 10-3 ou plus, et de préférence de l'ordre de 5. 10-'. Typically, this ratio is 10-4 or more, preferably 10-3 or higher, and preferably of the order of 5-10.
Dans le cas d'un mélange de Mn (II) et Zn (II), le rapport varie généralement de 10-5 à 10-1, de préférence 10-3 à 10-2, ce rapport étant choisi plus élevé lorsque la proportion de Zn (II) dans le mélange s'accroît. In the case of a mixture of Mn (II) and Zn (II), the ratio generally varies from 10-5 to 10-1, preferably 10-3 to 10-2, this ratio being chosen higher when the proportion Zn (II) in the mixture increases.
Généralement, la concentration molaire en Mn (II), Zn (II), ou Mn (II) + Zn (II) dans la composition finale varie de 10-3 à 10 mM/1, de préférence de 10-2 à 1 mM/1. Generally, the molar concentration of Mn (II), Zn (II), or Mn (II) + Zn (II) in the final composition varies from 10-3 to 10 mM / l, preferably from 10-2 to 1 mM / 1.
Lorsqu'on utilise seulement un ou plusieurs sels ou oxydes de Mn (II), la concentration molaire en Mn (II) dans la composition finale est typiquement de
10-3 à 10''mM/1, de préférence 10-2 à 10-1 mM/1. When only one or more salts or oxides of Mn (II) are used, the molar concentration of Mn (II) in the final composition is typically
10-3 at 10 "mM / l, preferably 10-2 at 10-1 mM / l.
De préférence, lorsqu'on utilise uniquement un ou plusieurs sels ou oxydes de Zn (II), la concentration en Zn (II) dans la composition finale est de 5. 10-2 à 10 mM/l, mieux de 5. 10-1 à 1 mM/l. Preferably, when only one or more Zn (II) salts or oxides are used, the concentration of Zn (II) in the final composition is 5. 10-2 to 10 mM / l, more preferably 5. 10- 1 to 1 mM / l.
Parmi les sels de Mn (II) et Zn (II) convenant pour la présente invention, on peut citer les chlorure, fluorure, iodure, sulfate, phosphate, nitrate et perchlorate, les sels d'acides carboxyliques et leurs mélanges. Among the salts of Mn (II) and Zn (II) suitable for the present invention, mention may be made of chloride, fluoride, iodide, sulfate, phosphate, nitrate and perchlorate, the carboxylic acid salts and their mixtures.
A titre d'exemple, on peut citer le chlorure de manganèse, le carbonate de manganèse (par exemple rhodochrosite), le difluorure de Mn (II), l'acétate de Mn (II) tétrahydraté, le lactate de Mn (II) trihydraté, le phosphate de Mn (II), l'iodure de Mn (II), le nitrate de Mn (II) trihydraté, le bromure de Mn (II) et le perchlorate de Mn (II) tétrahydraté, et le sulfate de Mn (II) monohydraté. By way of example, mention may be made of manganese chloride, manganese carbonate (for example rhodochrosite), Mn (II) difluoride, Mn (II) acetate tetrahydrate, Mn (II) lactate trihydrate , Mn (II) phosphate, Mn (II) iodide, Mn (II) nitrate trihydrate, Mn (II) bromide and Mn (II) perchlorate tetrahydrate, and Mn sulphate ( II) monohydrate.
Les sels particulièrement préférés sont MnCL et ZnCl2. Particularly preferred salts are MnCl and ZnCl2.
Les sels d'acides carboxyliques incluent également des sels d'acides carboxyliques hydroxylés tels que le gluconate. The carboxylic acid salts also include hydroxyl carboxylic acid salts such as gluconate.
Parmi les hydrogénocarbonates alcalins et alcalino-terreux, on peut citer les hydrogénocarbonates de Na, K, Mg, Ca et leurs mélanges, préférentiellement l'hydrogénocarbonate de Na. Among the alkaline and alkaline-earth hydrogenocarbonates, mention may be made of the hydrogenocarbonates of Na, K, Mg, Ca and mixtures thereof, preferentially Na hydrogen carbonate.
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Comme indiqué précédemment, le système catalytique chimique selon l'invention constitue une pseudo-oxydase en ce qu'il oxyde les polyphénols, en présence d'oxygène, comme ferait un catalyseur enzymatique naturel ayant une activité polyphénoloxydase. As indicated above, the chemical catalytic system according to the invention constitutes a pseudo-oxidase in that it oxidizes the polyphenols, in the presence of oxygen, as would a natural enzymatic catalyst having a polyphenoloxidase activity.
Par contre, le système catalytique selon l'invention n'a pas d'activité pseudocatalase en ce sens qu'il ne provoque pas la dismutation du peroxyde d'hydrogène à 0,3 % en poids (soit 1 volume d'oxygène). On the other hand, the catalytic system according to the invention has no pseudocatalase activity in that it does not cause the disproportionation of hydrogen peroxide at 0.3% by weight (ie 1 volume of oxygen).
En outre, l'activité pseudo-oxydase est liée à l'emploi du système catalytique selon l'invention. Ainsi, chacun des constituants du système catalytique pris séparément n'a pas d'activité pseudo-oxydase. De même que le remplacement du sel de Mn (II) ou Zn (Il) par un autre sel, Fe, Cu ou même Mn (III) ne conduit pas à un système catalytique ayant une activité pseudooxydase. In addition, the pseudo-oxidase activity is related to the use of the catalytic system according to the invention. Thus, each of the components of the catalytic system taken separately has no pseudo-oxidase activity. Just as replacing the salt of Mn (II) or Zn (II) with another salt, Fe, Cu or even Mn (III) does not lead to a catalytic system having a pseudooxidase activity.
Les précurseurs de colorant des compositions de l'invention sont des composés ou mélanges de composés comprenant au moins un cycle aromatique, de préférence un cycle benzénique, comportant au moins deux groupes hydroxyles (OH) portés par deux atomes de carbone consécutifs du cycle aromatique. The dye precursors of the compositions of the invention are compounds or mixtures of compounds comprising at least one aromatic ring, preferably a benzene ring, comprising at least two hydroxyl groups (OH) borne by two consecutive carbon atoms of the aromatic ring.
Le cycle aromatique peut être un cycle aromatique condensé contenant éventuellement un ou plusieurs hetéroatomes, tel que le naphtalène, le tétrahydronaphtalène, l'indane, l'indène, l'anthracène, le phénanthrène, l'indole, l'isoindole, l'indoline, l'isoindoline, le benzofuranne, le dihydrobenzofuranne, le chromane, l'isochromane, le chromène, l'isochromène, la quinoléine, la tétrahydroquinoléine et l'isoquinoléine. The aromatic ring may be a fused aromatic ring optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, such as naphthalene, tetrahydronaphthalene, indane, indene, anthracene, phenanthrene, indole, isoindole, indoline , isoindoline, benzofuran, dihydrobenzofuran, chroman, isochromane, chromene, isochromene, quinoline, tetrahydroquinoline and isoquinoline.
Les précurseurs de colorant selon l'invention peuvent être représentés par la formule :
The dye precursors according to the invention may be represented by the formula:
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dans laquelle les substituts R1 à R4, identiques ou différents, représentent un atome d'hydrogène, un radical halogène, hydroxyle, carboxyle, carboxylate d'alkyle, amino éventuellement substitué, alkyle linéaire ou ramifié éventuellement substitué, alcényle linéaire ou ramifié éventuellement substitué, cycloalkyle éventuellement substitué, alcoxy, alcoxyalkyle, alcoxyaryle, le groupe aryle pouvant être éventuellement substitué, aryle, aryle substitué, un radical hétérocyclique éventuellement substitué, un radical contenant un ou plusieurs atomes de silicium, où deux des substituants R1 à R4 forment conjointement un cycle saturé ou insaturé contenant éventuellement un ou plusieurs hétéroatomes et éventuellement condensé avec un ou plusieurs cycles saturés ou insaturés contenant éventuellement un ou plusieurs hétéroatomes.
in which the substituents R1 to R4, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen, hydroxyl, carboxyl, alkyl carboxylate, optionally substituted amino, optionally substituted linear or branched alkyl radical, optionally substituted linear or branched alkenyl, optionally substituted cycloalkyl, alkoxy, alkoxyalkyl, alkoxyaryl, the optionally substituted aryl group, aryl, substituted aryl, an optionally substituted heterocyclic radical, a radical containing one or more silicon atoms, wherein two of the substituents R1 to R4 together form a ring saturated or unsaturated optionally containing one or more heteroatoms and optionally condensed with one or more saturated or unsaturated rings optionally containing one or more heteroatoms.
Les cycles saturés ou insaturés, éventuellement condensés, peuvent être aussi éventuellement substitués. The saturated or unsaturated cycles, optionally condensed, may also be optionally substituted.
Les radicaux alkyles sont généralement les radicaux alkyles en Ci-Cio, de préférence les radicaux alkyles en Ci-Ce, tels que méthyle, éthyle, propyle, butyle, pentyle et hexyle. The alkyl radicals are generally C 1 -C 10 alkyl radicals, preferably C 1 -C 6 alkyl radicals, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, pentyl and hexyl.
Les radicaux alcoxy sont en général les radicaux alcoxy en Ci-C20, tels que méthoxy, éthoxy, propoxy et butoxy. The alkoxy radicals are in general C 1 -C 20 alkoxy radicals, such as methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy and butoxy.
Les radicaux alcoxy alkyles sont de préférence les radicaux alcoxy (Ci- C20) alkyle (Cl-C20), tels que méthoxyméthyle, éthoxyméthyle, méthoxyéthyle, éthoxyéthyle, etc. Alkoxyalkyl radicals are preferably (C1-C20) alkoxy (C1-C20) alkyl radicals, such as methoxymethyl, ethoxymethyl, methoxyethyl, ethoxyethyl, and the like.
Les radicaux cycloalkyles sont en général les radicaux cycloalkyles en C4-Cg, de préférence les radicaux cyclopentyle et cyclohexyl. Les radicaux cycloalkyles peuvent être des radicaux cycloalkyles substitués, en particulier par des groupes alkyles, alcoxy, acide carboxylique, hydroxyle, amine et cétone. The cycloalkyl radicals are in general the C 4 -C 8 cycloalkyl radicals, preferably the cyclopentyl and cyclohexyl radicals. The cycloalkyl radicals may be substituted cycloalkyl radicals, in particular with alkyl, alkoxy, carboxylic acid, hydroxyl, amine and ketone groups.
Les radicaux alcényles sont de préférence des radicaux en C1-C20, tels que éthylène, propylène, butylène, pentylène, méthyl-2-propylène et décylène. The alkenyl radicals are preferably C1-C20 radicals, such as ethylene, propylene, butylene, pentylene, methyl-2-propylene and decylene.
Les radicaux contenant un ou plusieurs atomes de silicium sont de préférence des radicaux polydiméthylsiloxane, polydiphenylsiloxane, polydiméthylphénylsiloxane, stéraoxydiméthicone. The radicals containing one or more silicon atoms are preferably polydimethylsiloxane, polydiphenylsiloxane, polydimethylphenylsiloxane and steroxydimethicone radicals.
Les radicaux hétérocycliques sont en général des radicaux comprenant un ou plusieurs hétéroatomes choisis parmi 0, N et S, de préférence 0 ou N, éventuellement substitués par un ou plusieurs groupes alkyles, alcoxy, acide carboxylique, hydroxyle, amine ou cétone. The heterocyclic radicals are generally radicals comprising one or more heteroatoms chosen from O, N and S, preferably O or N, optionally substituted by one or more alkyl, alkoxy, carboxylic acid, hydroxyl, amine or ketone groups.
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Parmi les radicaux hétérocyliques préférés, on peut citer les groupes furyle, pyrannyle, pyrrolyle, imidazolyl, pyrazolyle, pyridyle, thiényle. Among the preferred heterocyclic radicals, mention may be made of furyl, pyranyl, pyrrolyl, imidazolyl, pyrazolyl, pyridyl and thienyl groups.
De préférence encore, les groupes hétérocycliques sont des groupes condensés tels que des groupes benzofurannyle, chromènyle, xanthényle, indolyle, isoindolyle, quinolyle, isoquinolyle, chromannyle, isochromannyle, indolinyle, isoindolinyle, coumarinyle, isocoumarinyle, ces groupes pouvant être substitués, en particulier par un ou plusieurs groupes OH. More preferably, the heterocyclic groups are fused groups such as benzofuranyl, chromenyl, xanthenyl, indolyl, isoindolyl, quinolyl, isoquinolyl, chromannyl, isochromannyl, indolinyl, isoindolinyl, coumarinyl, isocoumarinyl, these groups may be substituted, in particular by one or more OH groups.
Les précurseurs de colorant préférés sont : - les flavanols comme la catéchine et le gallate d'épichatéchine, - les flavonols comme la quercétine, - les anthocyanidines comme la péonidine, - les anthocyanines, par exemple l'oenine, - les hydroxybenzoates, par exemple l'acide gallique, - les flavones comme la lutéoline, - les iridoïdes comme l'oleuropéine, ces produits pouvant être osylés (par exemple glucosylés) et/ou sous forme d'oligomères (procyanidines) ; - les hydroxystilbènes, par exemple le tétrahydroxy-3,3', 4, 5'-stilbène,
éventuellement osylés (par exemple glucosylés) ; - la 3, 4-dihydroxyphénylalanine et ses dérivés ; - la 2, 3-dihydroxyphenylalanine et ses dérivés ; - la 4, 5-dihydroxyphenylalanine et ses dérivés ; - le 4, 5-dihydroxyindole et ses dérivés ; - le 5, 6-dihydroxyindole et ses dérivés ; - le 6, 7-dihydroxyindole et ses dérivés ; - le 2, 3-dihydroxyindole et ses dérivés ; - les dihydroxycinnnamates tels que l'acide caféique et l'acide chlorogénique ; - les hydroxycoumarines ; - les hydroxyisocoumarines ; - les hydroxycoumarones ; - les hydroxyisocoumarones ; - les hydroxychalcones ; - les hydroxychromones ; - les anthocyanes ; The preferred dye precursors are: flavanols such as catechin and epichatechin gallate, flavonols such as quercetin, anthocyanidins such as peonidine, anthocyanins, for example oenine, hydroxybenzoates, for example gallic acid, flavones such as luteolin, iridoids such as oleuropein, these products may be osylated (for example glucosylated) and / or in the form of oligomers (procyanidines); hydroxystilbenes, for example tetrahydroxy-3,3 ', 4,5'-stilbene,
optionally osylated (for example glucosylated); 3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine and its derivatives; 2,3-dihydroxyphenylalanine and its derivatives; 4,5-dihydroxyphenylalanine and its derivatives; 4,5-dihydroxyindole and its derivatives; - 5,6-dihydroxyindole and its derivatives; 6,7-dihydroxyindole and its derivatives; 2,3-dihydroxyindole and its derivatives; - Dihydroxycinnnamates such as caffeic acid and chlorogenic acid; hydroxycoumarines; hydroxyisocoumarines; - hydroxycoumarones; hydroxyisocoumarones; hydroxychalcones; - hydroxychromones; anthocyanins;
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- les quinones ; - les hydroxyxanthones ; et - les mélanges de ceux-ci.
quinones; hydroxyxanthones; and - mixtures thereof.
Lorsque les précurseurs de colorant présentent des formes D et L, les deux formes peuvent être utilisées dans les compositions selon l'invention. When the dye precursors have D and L forms, both forms can be used in the compositions according to the invention.
En faisant varier la nature des différents précurseurs de colorant et leurs proportions dans la composition, on peut faire varier la couleur de la composition de coloration finale. On obtient ainsi une palette de couleurs. By varying the nature of the different dye precursors and their proportions in the composition, the color of the final coloring composition can be varied. This gives a palette of colors.
Par exemple, avec un ratio 1/10 d'acide chlorogénique et de catéchine, on obtient une coloration marron claire et avec un ratio 1/1 une coloration acajou. For example, with a 1/10 ratio of chlorogenic acid and catechin, a light brown color is obtained and with a 1/1 ratio a mahogany coloring.
Les polymères formés en particulier avec la catéchine, l'acide gallique et leurs dérivés (tannins) ont des propriétés antimicrobiennes par emprisonnement des microorganismes lors de la polymérisation. Ces tannins ont également des propriétés astringentes intéressantes pour la peau. The polymers formed in particular with catechin, gallic acid and their derivatives (tannins) have antimicrobial properties by imprisoning the microorganisms during the polymerization. These tannins also have interesting astringent properties for the skin.
Les précurseurs de colorants peuvent être des extraits de plantes, fruits, agrumes, légumes et des mélanges de ces extraits, qui contiennent de nombreux polyphénols tels que définis précédemment. The precursors of dyes may be extracts of plants, fruits, citrus fruits, vegetables and mixtures of these extracts, which contain many polyphenols as defined above.
Parmi les extraits de plantes, on peut citer les extraits de rose et de thé. Herbal extracts include rose and tea extracts.
Parmi les extraits de fruits, on peut citer les extraits de pomme, de raisin (en particulier de pépins de raisin) et de banane. Among the fruit extracts, mention may be made of apple, grape (in particular grape seed) and banana extracts.
Parmi les extraits de légumes, on peut citer l'extrait de pomme de terre. Among the vegetable extracts, mention may be made of potato extract.
On peut également utiliser des mélanges d'extraits de plantes et/ou de fruits tels que des mélanges d'extraits de pomme et de thé et des mélanges d'extraits de raisin et de pomme. Mixtures of plant and / or fruit extracts such as mixtures of apple and tea extracts and mixtures of grape and apple extracts can also be used.
Suivant les parties de fruits utilisés, par exemple pulpe ou pépins de raisin, la coloration obtenue est différente. Depending on the fruit parts used, for example pulp or grape seeds, the coloring obtained is different.
La quantité de précurseur de colorant dans la composition finale doit être suffisante pour obtenir une coloration visible. Cette quantité peut varier dans de larges mesures en fonction de la nature du précurseur et de l'intensité voulue pour la coloration. The amount of dye precursor in the final composition should be sufficient to obtain visible color. This amount can vary widely depending upon the nature of the precursor and the intensity desired for the coloring.
En général, on obtiendra une coloration convenable lorsque la quantité de précurseur de colorant est telle que la teneur en précurseur de colorant dans la composition de coloration finale est d'au moins 10 micromoles par millilitre de composition finale. In general, a suitable coloration will be obtained when the amount of dye precursor is such that the dye precursor content in the final dye composition is at least 10 micromoles per milliliter of final composition.
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Le milieu physiologiquement acceptable est un milieu solide ou liquide ne nuisant pas à la propriété de coloration des précurseurs ni à l'effet catalytique du système catalytique.
The physiologically acceptable medium is a solid or liquid medium that does not adversely affect the precursor staining property or the catalytic effect of the catalytic system.
Le milieu physiologiquement acceptable est de préférence un milieu solubilisant du précurseur de colorant et à propriété bactériostatique. The physiologically acceptable medium is preferably a solubilizing medium of the dye precursor and bacteriostatic property.
Parmi les solvants des précurseurs convenant pour la formulation des compositions selon l'invention, on peut citer l'eau, les alcools, les solvants polaires et leurs mélanges.
Among the precursor solvents suitable for the formulation of the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of water, alcohols, polar solvents and mixtures thereof.
Les alcools sont de préférence des alcanols inférieurs (Ci-Ce) tels que l'éthanol et l'isopropanol et les alcanediols tels que l'éthylène glycol, le propylène glycol et le pentane diol. The alcohols are preferably lower (C 1 -C 6) alkanols such as ethanol and isopropanol and alkanediols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and pentane diol.
Parmi les solvants polaires, on peut citer les éthers, les esters (en particulier les acétates), le diméthylsulfoxyde (DMSO), la N-méthylpyrrolidone (NMP), les cétones (en particulier l'acétone) et leurs mélanges. Among the polar solvents, mention may be made of ethers, esters (in particular acetates), dimethylsulfoxide (DMSO), N-methylpyrrolidone (NMP), ketones (in particular acetone) and their mixtures.
Le milieu physiologiquement acceptable comprend de préférence de l'eau (en particulier distillée ou permutée) ou un mélange eau/alcool, en particulier eau/éthanol. The physiologically acceptable medium preferably comprises water (in particular distilled or permuted) or a water / alcohol mixture, in particular water / ethanol.
La quantité d'alcool dans le mélange eau/alcool peut représenter jusqu'à 80% en poids du mélange eau/alcool, de préférence 1 à 50% en poids et mieux 5 à 20% en poids. The amount of alcohol in the water / alcohol mixture may be up to 80% by weight of the water / alcohol mixture, preferably 1 to 50% by weight and more preferably 5 to 20% by weight.
Le milieu physiologiquement acceptable peut être un milieu solide tel qu'un excipient pour la formulation de galets et comprimés, en particulier effervescents. The physiologically acceptable medium may be a solid medium such as an excipient for the formulation of pebbles and tablets, in particular effervescent.
Les compositions selon l'invention peuvent également comprendre tout adjuvant classique, en proportion usuelle, qui ne nuit pas aux propriétés recherchées, en particulier à l'effet colorant des compositions. The compositions according to the invention may also comprise any conventional adjuvant, in usual proportion, which does not adversely affect the desired properties, in particular the coloring effect of the compositions.
Les compositions de l'invention peuvent par exemple comporter des filtres solaires et de protection contre les UV, tels que les filtres organiques comme le benzophénone, le benzylidène, les dérivés de triazine, les dérivés de l'hydroxyphényl benzotriazole, les dérivés de l'acide cinnamique, les dérivés d'oxybenzone, l'octoclylène, les dérivés de benzilidène-camphre et les filtres minéraux tels que ZnO, Tirs. The compositions of the invention may for example comprise sunscreens and UV protection, such as organic filters such as benzophenone, benzylidene, triazine derivatives, hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole derivatives, derivatives of the cinnamic acid, oxybenzone derivatives, octoclylene, benzilidenecamphor derivatives and mineral filters such as ZnO, shots.
Lorsque les compositions selon l'invention comportent des pigments et des colorants classiques, elles peuvent être utilisées pour obtenir des produits tels que des fonds de teint dont l'action colorante apportée à la peau par les When the compositions according to the invention comprise pigments and conventional dyes, they can be used to obtain products such as foundations whose coloring action provided to the skin by the skin.
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pigments et/ou colorants est prolongée dans le temps. En effet, par suite du frottement notamment des joues et du cou, un fond de teint classique et par suite son effet colorant tend à disparaître. L'utilisation d'une composition selon l'invention dans une formulation de fond de teint permettrait donc de pallier cet effet.
pigments and / or dyes is extended in time. Indeed, as a result of friction including cheeks and neck, a classic foundation and therefore its coloring effect tends to disappear. The use of a composition according to the invention in a foundation formulation would thus make it possible to overcome this effect.
De préférence, les compositions selon l'invention sont exemptes d'agents de chélation des sels de Mn (II) et/ou Zn (II) utilisés, car ces agents tendent à inhiber l'oxydation des précurseurs de colorant. Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are free of chelating agents of the Mn (II) and / or Zn (II) salts used, since these agents tend to inhibit the oxidation of the dye precursors.
Pour révéler la coloration des compositions suivant l'invention, il suffit de mettre la composition contenant au moins un précurseur de colorant et une quantité efficace du système catalytique selon l'invention, en présence d'un milieu oxydant tel qu'un milieu contenant de l'oxygène (par exemple l'oxygène de l'air). To reveal the coloration of the compositions according to the invention, it is sufficient to put the composition containing at least one dye precursor and an effective amount of the catalyst system according to the invention, in the presence of an oxidizing medium such as a medium containing oxygen (for example oxygen from the air).
Les compositions selon l'invention sont utiles pour la coloration de la peau et/ou des fibres kératiniques tels que les cheveux, les cils, les sourcils et les poils. Elles peuvent également être utilisées pour la coloration d'aliments. The compositions according to the invention are useful for coloring the skin and / or keratin fibers such as the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and the hairs. They can also be used for coloring foods.
Pour la coloration de la peau et des fibres kératiniques, différents procédés d'application des compositions selon l'invention peuvent être utilisés. For the coloration of the skin and keratinous fibers, various methods of applying the compositions according to the invention may be used.
Selon un premier procédé, on applique sur la peau ou les fibres kératiniques, en présence d'oxygène par exemple l'oxygène de l'air, une composition comprenant tous les ingrédients de la composition, c'est-à-dire à la fois le ou les précurseurs de colorant et le système catalytique. According to a first method, the skin or the keratinous fibers, in the presence of oxygen, for example oxygen of the air, is applied to a composition comprising all the ingredients of the composition, that is to say at the same time the dye precursor (s) and the catalyst system.
Selon un second procédé, on peut en premier lieu appliquer sur la peau ou les fibres kératiniques un film d'une composition de base d'un ou plusieurs précurseurs de colorant dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, puis sur le film de composition de base, un film du système catalytique dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, qui en présence d'oxygène, révélera la coloration de la composition de base. According to a second method, it is first possible to apply a film of a base composition of one or more dye precursors in a physiologically acceptable medium to the skin or to the keratinous fibers, and then to the base composition film, a film of the catalytic system in a physiologically acceptable medium, which in the presence of oxygen, will reveal the coloring of the base composition.
On peut bien évidemment inverser l'ordre d'application des films. We can of course reverse the order of application of the films.
L'application des films peut se faire par tout moyen connu, en particulier par pulvérisation. The application of the films can be done by any known means, in particular by spraying.
Les compositions de l'invention peuvent, en fonction du choix des précurseurs de colorant, constituer des compositions de bronzage artificiel qui, lorsqu'on y a incorporé des filtres solaires, confèrent à la peau un aspect The compositions of the invention may, depending on the choice of dye precursors, constitute artificial tanning compositions which, when sunscreens have been incorporated, give the skin an appearance
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artificiellement bronzé, tout en permettant une exposition sans risque au soleil ou aux UV po ur un bronzage naturel.
artificially tanned, while allowing safe exposure to the sun or UV for a natural tan.
Les compositions de l'invention peuvent également permettre de masquer des défauts de pigmentation tels que le vitiligo, le masque de grossesse, ainsi que des imperfections de la peau comme les taches de vieillissement et la couperose. The compositions of the invention may also make it possible to mask pigmentation defects such as vitiligo, the pregnancy mask, as well as skin imperfections such as age spots and rosacea.
La coloration de la composition peut être déterminée par le choix des précurseurs de colorant en fonction du défaut à masquer. The coloration of the composition may be determined by the choice of dye precursors as a function of the defect to be masked.
Les compositions de l'invention présentent l'avantage de ne pas nécessiter l'emploi de peroxyde d'hydrogène. The compositions of the invention have the advantage of not requiring the use of hydrogen peroxide.
Les compositions selon l'invention peuvent se présenter et être conditionnées sous différentes formes. The compositions according to the invention can be presented and be packaged in different forms.
Selon une première réalisation, les compositions selon l'invention peuvent être conditionnées sous forme d'aérosol à un seul compartiment dans lequel se trouvent la composition renfermant le ou les précurseurs de colorant et le système catalytique, et un gaz propulseur inerte classique tel que de l'azote, un hydrocarbure saturé comme l'isopropane ou un hydrocarbure fluoré, par exemple un Fréon@. According to a first embodiment, the compositions according to the invention may be packaged in the form of a single-compartment aerosol in which there is the composition containing the dye precursor (s) and the catalytic system, and a conventional inert propellant gas such as nitrogen, a saturated hydrocarbon such as isopropane or a fluorinated hydrocarbon, for example a Freon®.
Dans une seconde réalisation, la composition selon l'invention peut être conditionnée sous forme d'un kit comportant deux conteneurs distincts, l'un pour la composition de base contenant le ou les précurseurs de colorant, l'autre pour le système catalytique, la composition de base et le système catalytique étant mélangés ou appliqués successivement au moment de l'emploi. In a second embodiment, the composition according to the invention may be packaged in the form of a kit comprising two distinct containers, one for the base composition containing the dye precursor (s), the other for the catalytic system, the base composition and the catalyst system being mixed or applied successively at the time of use.
Dans une troisième réalisation, la composition peut être contenue dans un système à pompe à un seul compartiment, sans reprise d'air, ou dans un système à pompe à deux compartiments, la composition de base étant dans un compartiment et le système catalytique dans l'autre. In a third embodiment, the composition may be contained in a single compartment pump system, without air intake, or in a two compartment pump system, the base composition being in a compartment and the catalytic system in the compartment. 'other.
Dans une quatrième réalisation, la composition selon l'invention peut se présenter sous forme de galets, en particulier pour le bain. Chaque galet peut comporter, mélangé à un excipient, le ou les précurseurs de coloration et le système catalytique, l'excipient empêchant la réaction en présence d'oxygène ou le ou les précurseurs de colorant et le système catalytique sont contenus dans des galets distincts. In a fourth embodiment, the composition according to the invention may be in the form of rollers, in particular for the bath. Each roller may comprise, mixed with an excipient, the dye precursor (s) and the catalytic system, the excipient preventing the reaction in the presence of oxygen or the dye precursor (s) and the catalytic system are contained in separate rollers.
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En délitant soit le galet unique soit un galet de chacun des constituants dans de l'eau, par exemple l'eau d'un bain, on réalise la composition colorante selon l'invention. By disintegrating either the single roller or a roller of each of the constituents in water, for example the water of a bath, the coloring composition according to the invention is produced.
Les galets, comme cela est classique, peuvent être des galets effervescents. The rollers, as is conventional, may be effervescent pebbles.
L'excipient utilisé peut être tout excipient classique tel qu'un mélange de talc, de stéarate (en particulier de magnésium), d'acide citrique et/ou tartrique, et d'hydrogèno carbonate alcalin et/ou alcalino terreux. The excipient used may be any conventional excipient such as a mixture of talc, stearate (especially magnesium), citric acid and / or tartaric, and alkali and / or alkaline earth hydrogen carbonate.
La quantité d'acide citrique et/ou tartrique présente doit être telle qu'il n'y ait pas une neutralisation de l'hydrogénocarbonate résultant en un manque d'hydrogénocarbonate libre par rapport au Mn (II) et/ou Zn (II). The amount of citric and / or tartaric acid present should be such that there is no neutralization of the hydrogencarbonate resulting in a lack of free hydrogen carbonate relative to Mn (II) and / or Zn (II) .
D'autre part, comme l'eau, en particulier l'eau du robinet et certaines eaux de source ou minérales, contiennent généralement du manganèse (II), il est parfois suffisant de mettre dans l'eau le seul galet contenant de l'hydrogénocarbonate et le ou les précurseurs de coloration, la teneur en Mn (II) du système catalytique étant alors fournie par le Mn (II) présent dans l'eau. On the other hand, since water, especially tap water and certain spring or mineral waters, generally contain manganese (II), it is sometimes sufficient to put in the water the only roller containing water. hydrogen carbonate and the precursor (s) of staining, the Mn (II) content of the catalytic system then being provided by the Mn (II) present in the water.
De même, certains extraits végétaux (par exemple des extraits de feuilles de thé) peuvent contenir des quantités importantes de manganèse (II). En fonction de ces teneurs, un ajustement des concentrations du système catalytique est effectué de manière à avoir un résultat satisfaisant. Similarly, some plant extracts (eg tea leaf extracts) may contain significant amounts of manganese (II). Depending on these contents, an adjustment of the concentrations of the catalytic system is carried out so as to have a satisfactory result.
Bien évidemment, on peut faire varier l'intensité de la coloration en délitant plusieurs galets dans l'eau. Of course, the intensity of the color can be varied by disintegrating several pebbles in the water.
D'autre part, la vitesse de coloration peut être accélérée en ajoutant à la composition un composé ou une formulation de composés engendrant de l'oxygène, par exemple par contact avec de l'eau. Ainsi, on peut incorporer un tel composé ou formulation, par exemple du peroxyde de sodium, dans un galet. On the other hand, the coloring rate can be accelerated by adding to the composition a compound or a formulation of oxygen generating compounds, for example by contact with water. Thus, such a compound or formulation, for example sodium peroxide, can be incorporated in a roller.
Les exemples suivants illustrent la présente invention. Dans les exemples, sauf indication contraire, tous les pourcentages et parties sont exprimés en poids. The following examples illustrate the present invention. In the examples, unless otherwise indicated, all percentages and parts are by weight.
EXEMPLE 1
On a préparé plusieurs formulations de composition de coloration en faisant varier le rapport molaire [MnCIs]/ [NaHCO3] du système catalytique. EXAMPLE 1
Several dye composition formulations were prepared by varying the [MnCl 2] / [NaHCO 3] molar ratio of the catalyst system.
Les formulations sont données dans le tableau 1 ci-dessous : The formulations are given in Table 1 below:
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TABLEAU
BOARD
<tb>
<tb> Formulation <SEP> Précurseur <SEP> de <SEP> coloration <SEP> Milieu <SEP> Système <SEP> catalytique
<tb> NO <SEP> physiologiquement
<tb> acceptable
<tb> Nature <SEP> Concentration <SEP> Ratio <SEP> Concentration <SEP> Concentration
<tb> (mM/l) <SEP> MnCl2 <SEP> MnCl2 <SEP> NaHCO3
<tb> NaHCO3 <SEP> (mM/l) <SEP> (mM/l)
<tb> 1 <SEP> Catéchine <SEP> 1 <SEP> Solution <SEP> saline <SEP> avec <SEP> 10-3 <SEP> 10-2 <SEP> 10
<tb> 2 <SEP> Catéchine <SEP> 1 <SEP> Tampon <SEP> phosphate <SEP> 2,5 <SEP> 10-3 <SEP> 2,5. <SEP> 10-2 <SEP> 10
<tb> 3 <SEP> Catéchine <SEP> 1 <SEP> De <SEP> Dulbecco <SEP> (PBS) <SEP> 5. <SEP> 10-3 <SEP> 5. <SEP> 10-2 <SEP> 10
<tb> 4 <SEP> Catéchine <SEP> 1 <SEP> soit <SEP> en <SEP> g/l <SEP> : <SEP> 10' <SEP> 10-1 <SEP> 10
<tb> 5 <SEP> L-DOPA <SEP> 1 <SEP> KH2PO4 <SEP> : <SEP> 0,2 <SEP> 10-3 <SEP> 10-2 <SEP> 10
<tb> 6 <SEP> L-DOPA <SEP> 1 <SEP> MnCl2 <SEP> : <SEP> 0,2 <SEP> 2,5. <SEP> 10-3 <SEP> 2,5. <SEP> 10-2 <SEP> 10
<tb> 7 <SEP> L-DOPA <SEP> 1 <SEP> NaCl <SEP> : <SEP> 8, <SEP> 0 <SEP> et <SEP> 5. <SEP> 10-3 <SEP> 5. <SEP> 10-2 <SEP> 10
<tb> Na2HPO4 <SEP> # <SEP> 1,15
<tb> 8 <SEP> L-DOPA <SEP> 1 <SEP> et <SEP> 10 <SEP> % <SEP> en <SEP> poids <SEP> 10-2 <SEP> 10-1 <SEP> 10
<tb> d'éthanol
<tb> <Tb>
<tb> Formulation <SEP> Precursor <SEP> of <SEP> Staining <SEP> Medium <SEP> Catalyst System <SEP>
<tb> NO <SEP> physiologically
<tb> acceptable
<tb> Nature <SEP> Concentration <SEP> Ratio <SEP> Concentration <SEP> Concentration
<tb> (mM / l) <SEP> MnCl 2 <SEP> MnCl 2 <SEP> NaHCO 3
<tb> NaHCO3 <SEP> (mM / l) <SEP> (mM / l)
<tb> 1 <SEP> Catechin <SEP> 1 <SEP> Solution <SEP> saline <SEP> with <SEP> 10-3 <SEP> 10-2 <SEP> 10
<tb> 2 <SEP> Catechin <SEP> 1 <SEP> Buffer <SEP> phosphate <SEP> 2.5 <SEP> 10-3 <SEP> 2.5. <SEP> 10-2 <SEP> 10
<tb> 3 <SEP> Catechin <SEP> 1 <SEP> From <SEP> Dulbecco <SEP> (PBS) <SEP> 5. <SEP> 10-3 <SEP> 5. <SEP> 10-2 <SEP > 10
<tb> 4 <SEP> Catechin <SEP> 1 <SEP> or <SEP> into <SEP> g / l <SEP>: <SEP> 10 '<SEP> 10-1 <SEP> 10
<tb> 5 <SEP> L-DOPA <SEP> 1 <SEP> KH2PO4 <SEP>: <SEP> 0.2 <SEP> 10-3 <SEP> 10-2 <SEP> 10
<tb> 6 <SEP> L-DOPA <SEP> 1 <SEP> MnCl 2 <SEP>: <SEP> 0.2 <SEP> 2.5. <SEP> 10-3 <SEP> 2.5. <SEP> 10-2 <SEP> 10
<tb> 7 <SEP> L-DOPA <SEP> 1 <SEP> NaCl <SEP>: <SEP> 8, <SEP> 0 <SEP> and <SEP> 5. <SEP> 10-3 <SEP> 5 <SEP> 10-2 <SEP> 10
<tb> Na2HPO4 <SEP>#<SEP> 1.15
<tb> 8 <SEP> L-DOPA <SEP> 1 <SEP> and <SEP> 10 <SEP>% <SEP> in <SEP> weight <SEP> 10-2 <SEP> 10-1 <SEP> 10
<tb> ethanol
<Tb>
On a mesuré les vitesses maximales (Vmax) de coloration à l'air des formulations ci-dessus. La vitesse maximale est l'augmentation de la millidensité optique (mDo) par minute sur la zone de la cinétique dans laquelle cette vitesse est maximum. Une mesure est réalisée toutes les minutes et la
détermination de Vmax s'effectue sur 8 points pendant les 40 premières minutes. Les lectures en densité optique ont été effectuées à 475 nm avec un lecteur de densité optique Labsystem iEMS. Maximum air velocity (Vmax) values of the above formulations were measured. The maximum speed is the increase of the optical millidensity (mDo) per minute over the kinetic zone in which this speed is maximum. A measurement is made every minute and the
Vmax is determined on 8 points during the first 40 minutes. The optical density readings were taken at 475 nm with an Labsystem iEMS optical density meter.
<Desc/Clms Page number 14> <Desc / Clms Page number 14>
Les résultats sont donnés dans le Tableau II ci-dessous : TABLEAU fi
The results are given in Table II below:
<tb>
<tb> Formulation <SEP> ? <SEP> Vmax
<tb> 1 <SEP> 135
<tb> 2 <SEP> 155, <SEP> 8
<tb> 3 <SEP> 177, <SEP> 8
<tb> 4 <SEP> 158
<tb> 5 <SEP> 38, <SEP> 3
<tb> 6 <SEP> 48, <SEP> 8
<tb> 7 <SEP> 61
<tb> 8 <SEP> 55, <SEP> 8
<tb> <Tb>
<tb> Formulation <SEP>? <SEP> Vmax
<tb> 1 <SEP> 135
<tb> 2 <SEP> 155, <SEP> 8
<tb> 3 <SEP> 177, <SEP> 8
<tb> 4 <SEP> 158
<tb> 5 <SEP> 38, <SEP> 3
<tb> 6 <SEP> 48, <SEP> 8
<tb> 7 <SEP> 61
<tb> 8 <SEP> 55, <SEP> 8
<Tb>
Les compositions de coloration selon l'invention présentent de nombreux avantages dans le domaine de la coloration de la peau et du cheveu. Par exemple, la tenue sur la peau est renforcée par le fait de réaliser la réaction in situ . La coloration peut être réalisée avec des extraits naturels contenant des polyphénols et avoir une coloration proche du henné sans l'inconvénient de la présence de naphtoquinones dans ces colorations. Un autre avantage est d'avoir des réactions comme certaines enzymes sans les problèmes liés à leurs utilisations dans le domaine cosmétique et dermatologique. The coloring compositions according to the invention have numerous advantages in the field of the coloration of the skin and the hair. For example, the resistance on the skin is enhanced by performing the reaction in situ. The coloration can be carried out with natural extracts containing polyphenols and have a henna-like coloring without the disadvantage of the presence of naphthoquinones in these colors. Another advantage is to have reactions like certain enzymes without the problems related to their uses in the cosmetic and dermatological field.
Pour le domaine plus biologique la vectorisation de tels actifs est plus facile en raison de la taille et le risque toxicologique nettement moindre que l'usage de protéines. La demi-vie d'un tel mélange est probablement supérieure à une protéine qui subirait sans immobilisation préalable une dégradation rapide par les protéases des tissus. For the more biological field the vectorization of such assets is easier because of the size and the toxicological risk significantly less than the use of proteins. The half-life of such a mixture is probably greater than a protein which would undergo without rapid immobilization a rapid degradation by the proteases of the tissues.
L'usage d'une composition bronzante pour le bain présente l'intérêt d'éviter au consommateur de s'exposer longuement aux UV pour avoir un résultat (l'association avec une formulation hautement filtrante est donc possible et assure une sécurité plus efficace vis-à-vis des UV). The use of a bronzing composition for the bath has the advantage of avoiding the consumer exposure to UV for a long time to have a result (the association with a high filtering formulation is possible and provides a more effective safety screws to UV).
L'utilisation de l'hydrogénocarbonate de sodium ne semble pas présenter de risques toxicologiques (utilisation autorisée en cosmétique) et la quantité de manganèse est extrêmement faible. Par exemple, pour un bain avec un extrait de thé vert (long), 20 g d'hydrogénocarbonate de sodium et lOOmg de chlorure de The use of sodium hydrogencarbonate does not appear to present toxicological risks (authorized use in cosmetics) and the amount of manganese is extremely low. For example, for a bath with a green tea extract (long), 20 g of sodium hydrogencarbonate and 100 mg of
<Desc/Clms Page number 15><Desc / Clms Page number 15>
manganèse, soit un rapport [Mn (II)]/ [HC03] de l'ordre de 1/500, suffisent pour avoir un développement de couleur dans un bain de 100 litres. Certains extraits naturels (par exemple de thé) contiennent du Mn (II) et, dans ce cas, il suffira d'adapter la posologie de la formulation en fonction de la teneur en Mn (II) de l'extrait naturel. manganese, a ratio [Mn (II)] / [HC03] of the order of 1/500, are sufficient to have a color development in a bath of 100 liters. Some natural extracts (for example of tea) contain Mn (II) and, in this case, it will suffice to adapt the dosage of the formulation according to the Mn (II) content of the natural extract.
Claims (57)
Priority Applications (9)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR0012894A FR2814943B1 (en) | 2000-10-09 | 2000-10-09 | COLORING COMPOSITION, PROCESS FOR OBTAINING AND USE FOR COLORING SKIN AND / OR KERATINIC FIBERS |
JP2002533820A JP4303960B2 (en) | 2000-10-09 | 2001-10-09 | Coloring composition, method for preparing the composition and using it for coloring skin and / or keratin materials |
PCT/FR2001/003110 WO2002030375A1 (en) | 2000-10-09 | 2001-10-09 | Dyeing composition, method for obtaining same and use for colouring the skin and/or keratinous fibres |
EP01976385A EP1229892B1 (en) | 2000-10-09 | 2001-10-09 | Dyeing composition, method for obtaining same and use for colouring the skin and/or keratinous fibres |
ES01976385T ES2228957T3 (en) | 2000-10-09 | 2001-10-09 | COLOR COMPOSITION, PROCEDURE FOR OBTAINING AND USING FOR COLORING SKIN AND / OR KERATIN MATERIALS. |
AT01976385T ATE275924T1 (en) | 2000-10-09 | 2001-10-09 | DYEING COMPOSITION, METHOD OF PREPARATION AND USE FOR DYEING SKIN AND/OR KERATIN FIBERS |
US10/148,208 US6953486B2 (en) | 2000-10-09 | 2001-10-09 | Dyeing composition, method for obtaining the same and use for coloring the skin and/or keratinous fibres |
DE60105544T DE60105544T2 (en) | 2000-10-09 | 2001-10-09 | Dyeing composition, method for the preparation and use for coloring the skin and / or the keratin fibers |
CA2394006A CA2394006C (en) | 2000-10-09 | 2001-10-09 | Dyeing composition, method for obtaining same and use for colouring the skin and/or keratinous fibres |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR0012894A FR2814943B1 (en) | 2000-10-09 | 2000-10-09 | COLORING COMPOSITION, PROCESS FOR OBTAINING AND USE FOR COLORING SKIN AND / OR KERATINIC FIBERS |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
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FR2814943A1 true FR2814943A1 (en) | 2002-04-12 |
FR2814943B1 FR2814943B1 (en) | 2003-01-31 |
Family
ID=8855143
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Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
FR0012894A Expired - Fee Related FR2814943B1 (en) | 2000-10-09 | 2000-10-09 | COLORING COMPOSITION, PROCESS FOR OBTAINING AND USE FOR COLORING SKIN AND / OR KERATINIC FIBERS |
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FR (1) | FR2814943B1 (en) |
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WO2022144367A1 (en) | 2020-12-30 | 2022-07-07 | L'oreal | Fragranced cosmetic composition comprising at least one ferulic acid derivative, a dyestuff and a fragrancing material, and process for treating keratin materials and/or clothing using the composition |
FR3124386A1 (en) | 2021-06-29 | 2022-12-30 | L'oreal | Perfumed cosmetic composition comprising at least one organic acid ester, an anthocyanin(di)ne dye and a fragrancing material, and process for treating keratin material and/or clothing using the composition |
WO2023275142A1 (en) | 2021-06-29 | 2023-01-05 | L'oreal | Fragranced cosmetic composition comprising at least one organic acid ester, an anthocyani(di)n dye and a fragrancing material |
FR3124391A1 (en) | 2021-06-29 | 2022-12-30 | L'oreal | Perfumed cosmetic composition comprising at least one sugar, an anthocyanin(di)ne dye and a fragrancing material, and method for treating keratin material and/or clothing using the composition |
WO2024017930A1 (en) | 2022-07-19 | 2024-01-25 | L'oreal | Fragranced cosmetic composition comprising at least one flavonoid compound, ethanol, a water-soluble colorant and a fragrancing substance |
FR3138035A1 (en) | 2022-07-19 | 2024-01-26 | L'oreal | Perfumed cosmetic composition comprising at least one flavonoid compound, ethanol, a water-soluble coloring material and a perfuming material |
WO2024121308A1 (en) | 2022-12-09 | 2024-06-13 | L'oreal | Fragranced cosmetic composition comprising at least one phloretin derivative, a dyestuff and a fragrancing substance |
FR3142887A1 (en) | 2022-12-09 | 2024-06-14 | L'oreal | Perfumed cosmetic composition comprising at least one phloretin derivative, a coloring material and a perfuming substance, and process for treating keratin material and/or clothing using the composition |
WO2024135424A1 (en) | 2022-12-20 | 2024-06-27 | L'oreal | Composition comprising hyaluronic acid-based polyion complex and hydrophilic or lipophilic antioxidant |
FR3145279A1 (en) | 2023-01-30 | 2024-08-02 | L'oreal | COMPOSITION COMPRISING A POLYIONIC COMPLEX BASED ON HYALURONIC ACID AND A LIPOPHILIC ANTIOXIDANT |
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FR2814943B1 (en) | 2003-01-31 |
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