FR2976794A1 - Dyeing keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprises treating fibers with compositions containing ortho-diphenol derivatives, manganese or zinc salts, hydrogen peroxide, (bi)carbonates, basifying agents and titanium salts to keratin fibers - Google Patents

Abstract

Dyeing keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers such as hair, comprises: treating the fibers with cosmetic compositions containing, taken together or separately in the composition, ingredients comprising e.g. ortho-diphenol derivatives, manganese salts or zinc salts, hydrogen peroxide or systems that generate hydrogen peroxide, (bi)carbonates or systems that generate (bi)carbonate, basifying agents other than the (bi)carbonate, and salts comprising titanium salts and scandium salts. Dyeing keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprises: treating the fibers with one or more cosmetic compositions containing, taken together or separately in the composition, ingredients comprising (a) one or more ortho-diphenol derivatives, (b) one or more manganese salts or zinc salts, (c) hydrogen peroxide or one or more systems that generate hydrogen peroxide, (d) one or more (bi)carbonates or one or more systems that generate (bi)carbonate, (e) one or more basifying agents other than the (bi)carbonate, and (f) one or more salts comprising titanium salts and scandium salts, where the pH of at least one of the compositions comprising the ingredients (a)-(f) is alkaline, which is greater than 7, and the composition comprising (f) is applied to the keratin fibers as the last step of the dyeing process. Independent claims are included for: (1) cosmetic composition, containing compounds (a)-(f); and (2) a multi-compartment device comprising 2-6 compartments containing 2-6 compositions, in which are distributed ingredients (a)-(f), where the compositions are aqueous or pulverulent, with at least one of these compositions being aqueous.

Description

B11-1971 1 Method for hair dyeing using at least one orthodiphenol, a salt of manganese or zinc, hydrogen peroxide, (bi) carbonate, an alkaline agent and a scandium salt The present invention relates to a process staining keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, wherein said fibers are treated from one or more cosmetic compositions comprising a) one or more ortho-diphenol derivative (s), b ) one or more manganese or zinc salts, c) hydrogen peroxide or one or more hydrogen peroxide generator systems, d) one or more (b) carbonate (s) ) or one or more system (s) generating (s) carbonate (s), e) one or more agent (s) alkalinizing (s) different (s) carbonate (s) and f) one or more scandium salt (s). It is known to obtain so-called "permanent" dyes with dyeing compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, generally known as oxidation bases, such as ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols and heterocyclic compounds. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, when combined with oxidizing products, can give rise to colored compounds by a process of oxidative condensation. It is also known that the shades obtained can be varied by combining these oxidation bases with couplers or color modifiers, the latter being chosen in particular from aromatic meta-diamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds such as indole compounds. This oxidation dyeing process consists in applying bases or a mixture of bases and couplers to the keratinous fibers with hydrogen peroxide (H2O2 or hydrogen peroxide) as an oxidizing agent, to be allowed to diffuse, then to rinse the fibers. The resulting colorations are permanent, strong, and resistant to external agents, including light, weather, washing, perspiration and friction. However, commercial hair colourants that contain them generally have the disadvantage of staining clothing, lead to odor and comfort problems, and degrade keratin fibers. This is particularly the case with oxidation dyes. However, the colorations obtained are insufficiently intense and are not very chromatic, especially in the case of hair fibers.

Furthermore, it is known to use acid-level metals for dyeing keratinous fibers in amounts similar to those used for dyes by using an etching process, which consists in preparing the fibers before dyeing to to obtain stubborn hues (Ullmann's Encyclopedia "Metal and Dyes", 2005 § 5.1, p 8). However, this process generally has the disadvantage of not always respecting the cosmetics of the keratin fiber. In addition, the metals used, such as iron, lead to neutral and non-chromatic shades. In general, such metals do not make it possible to obtain chromatic nuances. There is therefore a real need to develop staining processes which make it possible to obtain intense, stubborn and / or chromatic colorations from orthodiphenols, in particular from natural extracts rich in orthodiphenols and less aggressive for keratinous fibers. In particular, there is a need to obtain stains which are satisfactorily resistant to external agents (light, bad weather, shampoos) which are stubborn and homogeneous, ie having a low selectivity of the coloring between the root and the tip, while remaining powerful and / or chromatic.

This object is achieved by the present invention which relates to a process for dyeing keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, in which said fibers are treated, in one or more steps, with one or more cosmetic compositions containing, taken together or separately in the said composition or compositions, the following ingredients: a) one or more derivatives of orthodiphenol (s), b) one or more salt (s) of manganese or one or more salts of zinc (c) hydrogen peroxide or one or more hydrogen peroxide generator systems, (d) one or more (bi) carbonate (s) or one or more generator system (s) (bi) carbonate (s), e) one or more basifying agent (s) different from the bicarbonate (s), and f) one or more scandium salt (s); it being understood that the pH of at least one of the compositions comprising at least one of ingredients a), b), d), e) and / or f) is alkaline, ie greater than 7, and that the composition comprising or the scandium salt (s) is applied post-treatment ie during the last step of the coloring process. Thus, the keratinous fibers are treated at the end of the dyeing process with a composition comprising the scandium salt (s).

In particular, the cosmetic composition comprising one or more scandium salt (s) is applied to the keratin fibers in post-treatment. According to a particular embodiment of the dyeing process according to the invention, the compound (s) d) and e) are: - either in mixture with the compounds a), b) and c), - is applied separately after application of a cosmetic composition comprising the compound (s) a), b) and c) - is applied together with the compound c) after application of a cosmetic composition comprising the ingredients a) and b).

According to a particular embodiment of the dyeing process of the invention, the scandium salt (s) are found to be applied separately after the application of the ingredients (a) to (e). The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition for dyeing keratinous fibers comprising: a) one or more derivatives of orthodiphenol (s), b) one or more salt (s) of manganese or one or more salt (s) zinc, (c) hydrogen peroxide or one or more hydrogen peroxide generator systems, (d) one or more (bi) carbonate (s) or one or more systems (s) ) generator (s) of (bi) carbonate (s), e) one or more basifying agent (s) different from the bicarbonate (s), and f) one or more salt ( s) scandium; it being understood that the pH of the composition is alkaline is greater than 7, and preferably between 8 and 12. Particularly between 8 and 10.5. Preferably, the dye composition is aqueous.

Another object of the present invention is a multi-compartment device comprising: a) one or more derivatives of ortho-diphenol (s), b) one or more salt (s) of manganese or one or more salt (s) zinc, (c) hydrogen peroxide or one or more hydrogen peroxide generator systems, (d) one or more (bi) carbonate (s) or one or more generator systems (s) ( (s) (bi) carbonate (s), (e) one or more alkalinizing agent (s) different from the bicarbonate (s), and (f) one or more salt (s) of scandium; it being understood that the pH of at least one of the compositions comprising at least one of ingredients a), b), d), e) and / or f) is alkaline, ie greater than 7, and preferably between 8 and 12.

Especially between 8 and 10.5. The multi-compartment device or "kit" is suitable for carrying out the coloring process according to the invention. The method according to the invention has the advantage of coloring human keratin fibers, with results of stubborn and surprisingly chromatic colorations. In particular, the dyeing method according to the invention makes it possible to lead to colorings resistant to washing, transpiration, sebum and light without altering the fibers. In addition, the dyeing method employed makes it possible to induce a satisfactory increase in color. Thus, another subject of the invention is the use of one or more scandium salts to improve the chromaticity and / or the rise in the color of the keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, colored from of one or more derivatives of orthodiphenol (s). Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent upon reading the description and examples which follow. a) orthodiphenol derivative

According to the present invention, the dyeing method uses one or more derivatives of orthodiphenol (s). The derivative (s) of orthodiphenol (s) may be present in one or more cosmetic compositions used during the dyeing process. A particular embodiment of the invention relates to derivatives of orthodiphenols or mixtures of compounds comprising one or more aromatic rings, preferably a benzene ring, comprising at least two hydroxy groups (OH) borne by two adjacent carbon atoms of the aromatic ring. In particular, the ortho-diphenol derivative (s) according to the invention are not indole-based autoxydisable derivatives. More particularly, they are not 5,6-dihydroxyindole.

The aromatic ring may be more particularly a condensed aryl or fused heteroaromatic ring. optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, such as benzene, naphthalene, tetrahydronaphthalene, indane, indene, anthracene, phenanthrene, isoindole, indoline, isoindoline, benzofuran, dihydrobenzofuran , chromane, isochroman, chromene, isochromen, quinoline, tetrahydroquinoline and isoquinoline, said aromatic ring having at least two hydroxy groups carried by two adjacent carbon atoms of the aromatic ring. Preferably, the aromatic ring of orthodiphenol derivatives according to the invention is a benzene ring. By condensed ring is meant that at least two saturated or unsaturated cycles, heterocyclic or not, have a common bond, that is to say that at least one cycle is attached to another cycle.

Orthodiphenols according to the invention may be salified or not. They can also be in the form of aglygone (without bound sugar) or in the form of glycosylated compounds. More particularly, the orthodiphenol derivative a) represents a compound of formula (I), or one of these oligomers, in salt form or not: OH (I) formula (I) in which the substituents: optionally substituted, a linear or branched alkenyl radical, which may be identical or different, represents hydrogen atom, halogen atom, hydroxy radical, carboxyl radical, alkyl carboxylate radical or alkoxycarbonyl, optionally substituted amino radical, substituted or unsubstituted alkyl radical, - an optionally substituted cycloalkyl radical, - an alkoxy radical, - an alkoxyalkyl radical, - an alkoxyaryl radical, the aryl group possibly being substituted, - an aryl radical, - a substituted aryl radical, - a heterocyclic radical, saturated or unsaturated, bearing or not a cationic or anionic charge, optionally substituted and / or optionally condensed with a aromatic ring, preferably benzene, said aromatic ring being optionally substituted especially by one or more hydroxyl or glycosyloxy groups, - a radical containing one or more silicon atoms, - or two of the substituents carried by two adjacent carbon atoms R1 - R2, Rz - R3 or R3 - R4 together with the carbon atoms carrying a saturated or unsaturated ring, aromatic or not, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms and optionally condensed with one or more saturated or unsaturated rings optionally containing one or more heteroatoms. Especially R1 to R4 together form from one to four rings. A particular embodiment of the invention relates to orthodiphenol derivatives of formula (I) in which two adjacent substituents R1 - R2, Rz - R3 or R3 - R4 can not form with the carbon atoms which carry them a pyrrolyl radical. More particularly, R 2 and R 3 can not form a pyrrolyl radical fused to the benzene ring carrying the two hydroxyls. For the purposes of the present invention, and unless a different indication is given: The saturated or unsaturated rings, optionally condensed, may also be optionally substituted. The alkyl radicals are saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radicals, generally C 1 -C 20, particularly C 1 -C 10 radicals, preferably C 1 -C 6 alkyl radicals, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or pentyl radicals. and hexyl. The alkenyl radicals are hydrocarbon radicals, linear or branched, unsaturated C2-C20; preferably comprising at least one double bond such as ethylene, propylene, butylene, pentylene, methyl-2-propylene and decylene. The aryl radicals are mono or polycyclic carbon radicals, condensed or not, preferably comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and of which at least one ring is aromatic; preferably chosen from the aryl radical is phenyl, biphenyl, naphthyl, indenyl, anthracenyl, and tetrahydronaphthyl. The alkoxy radicals are alkyl-oxy radicals with alkyl as defined above, preferably C 1 -C 10, such as methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy and butoxy.

The alkoxyalkyl radicals are preferably (C1-C20) alkoxy (C1-C20) alkyl radicals, such as methoxymethyl, ethoxymethyl, methoxyethyl, ethoxyethyl, and the like. The cycloalkyl radicals are in general the C 4 -C 8 cycloalkyl radicals, preferably the cyclopentyl and cyclohexyl radicals. The cycloalkyl radicals may be substituted cycloalkyl radicals, in particular with alkyl, alkoxy, carboxylic acid, hydroxy, amine and ketone groups. The alkyl or alkenyl radicals, when they are optionally substituted, may be substituted with at least one substituent carried by at least one carbon atom, chosen from: a halogen atom; a hydroxyl group; a C1-C2 alkoxy radical; a C1-C10 alkoxycarbonyl radical; a C2-C4 (poly) -hydroxyalkoxy radical; an amino radical; a 5- or 6-membered heterocycloalkyl radical; a 5- or 6-membered optionally cationic heteroaryl radical, preferentially imidazolium, and optionally substituted by a (C1-C4) alkyl radical, preferably methyl; an amino radical substituted with one or two identical or different C 1 -C 6 alkyl radicals optionally carrying at least: a hydroxyl group, an amino group optionally substituted by one or two optionally substituted C 1 -C 3 alkyl radicals , said alkyl radicals being able to form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, an optionally substituted 5 to 7-membered heterocyclic ring, saturated or unsaturated, optionally comprising at least one other heteroatom which may or may not be different from nitrogen; quaternary ammonium -N + R'R "R" ', M-for which R', R ", R" ', which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a C1-C4 alkyl group; and M- represents the counter-ion of the organic acid, mineral or of the corresponding halide, or a 5- or 6-membered optionally cationic heteroaryl radical, preferably imidazolium, and optionally substituted with a (C 1 -C 4) alkyl radical; preferentially methyl; an acylamino radical (-NR-COR ') in which the radical R is a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group and the radical R' is a C1-alkyl radical; -C2; a carbamoyl radical ((R) 2 N-CO-) in which the R radicals, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group; an alkylsulphonylamino radical (R'SOz-NR-) in which the radical R represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group and the radical R 'represents a C1-alkyl radical; -C4, a phenyl radical; an aminosulphonyl radical ((R) 2 N-SO 2 -) in which the R radicals, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group, - a carboxylic radical in acid or salified form (preferably with an alkali metal or ammonium, substituted or unsubstituted); a cyano group; a nitro group; a carboxy or glycosylcarbonyl group; a phenylcarbonyloxy group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups; a glycosyloxy group; and a phenyl group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups. The aryl or heterocyclic radicals or the aryl or heterocyclic part of the radicals, when they are optionally substituted, may be substituted with at least one substituent carried by at least one carbon atom, chosen from: a C 1 -C 1 alkyl radical preferably C1-C8, optionally substituted by one or more radicals chosen from hydroxyl, C1-C2alkoxy, (poly) -hydroxyalkoxy C2-C4, acylamino, amino substituted by two identical or different alkyl radicals, C1-C4, optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group or, the two radicals being able to form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocycle comprising from 5 to 7 members, preferably from 5 to 6 members, optionally substituted saturated or unsaturated optionally comprising another heteroatom identical or different from the nitrogen; a halogen atom; a hydroxyl group; a C1-C2 alkoxy radical; an alco xycarbonyl radical at C 1 -C 10; a C2-C4 (poly) -hydroxyalkoxy radical; an amino radical; a 5- or 6-membered heterocycloalkyl radical; a 5- or 6-membered optionally cationic heteroaryl radical, preferentially imidazolium, and optionally substituted by a (C1-C4) alkyl radical, preferably methyl; an amino radical substituted with one or two identical or different C 1 -C 6 alkyl radicals optionally carrying at least: a hydroxyl group, an amino group optionally substituted by one or two optionally substituted C 1 -C 3 alkyl radicals , said alkyl radicals being able to form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, an optionally substituted 5 to 7-membered heterocyclic ring, saturated or unsaturated, optionally comprising at least one other heteroatom which may or may not be different from nitrogen; quaternary ammonium -N + R'R "R" ', M-for which R', R ", R" ', which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a C1-C4 alkyl group; and M- represents the counter-ion of the organic acid, mineral or of the corresponding halide, or a 5- or 6-membered optionally cationic heteroaryl radical, preferably imidazolium, and optionally substituted with a (C 1 -C 4) alkyl radical; preferentially methyl; an acylamino radical (-NR-COR ') in which the radical R is a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group and the radical R' is a C1-alkyl radical; -C2; a carbamoyl radical ((R) 2 N-CO-) in which the R radicals, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group; an alkylsulphonylamino radical (R'SOz-NR-) in which the radical R represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group and the radical R 'represents a C1-alkyl radical; -C4, a phenyl radical; an aminosulphonyl radical ((R) 2 N-SO 2 -) in which the R radicals, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group, - a carboxylic radical in acid or salified form (preferably with an alkali metal or ammonium, substituted or unsubstituted); a cyano group; a nitro group; a polyhaloalkyl group, preferentially trifluoromethyl; a carboxy or glycosylcarbonyl group; a phenylcarbonyloxy group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups; a glycosyloxy group; and a phenyl group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups. By glycosyl radical is meant a radical derived from a mono or polysaccharide.

The radicals containing one or more silicon atoms are preferably poly-dimethylsiloxane, poly-diphenylsiloxane, poly-dimethylphenylsiloxane, stearoxydimethicone radicals. The heterocyclic radicals are, in general, radicals comprising in at least one ring one or more heteroatoms chosen from O, N and S, preferably O or N, optionally substituted with in particular one or more alkyl, alkoxy, carboxylic acid, hydroxyl or amine groups. or ketone. These rings may contain one or more oxo groups on the carbon atoms of the heterocycle.

Among the heterocyclic radicals that can be used, mention may be made of furyl, pyranyl, pyrrolyl, imidazolyl, pyrazolyl, pyridyl and thienyl groups. More preferably, the heterocyclic groups are fused groups such as benzofuranyl, chromenyl, xanthenyl, indolyl, isoindolyl, quinolyl, isoquinolyl, chromannyl, isochromannyl, indolinyl, isoindolinyl, coumarinyl, isocoumarinyl, these groups may be substituted, in particular by one or more OH groups.

Orthodiphenols useful in the process of the invention may be natural or synthetic. Natural orthodiphenols include compounds that may be present in nature and are reproduced by (hemi) synthetic chemistry.

The salts of the orthodiphenols of the invention may be salts of acids or bases. The acids can be mineral or organic. Preferably the acid is hydrochloric acid which leads to chlorides. The bases can be mineral or organic.

Especially the bases are alkali hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide which leads to sodium salts. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises as ingredient i) one or more synthetic orthodiphenol derivative (s) which does not exist in nature.

According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the method for dyeing keratin fibers uses as ingredient a) one or more natural orthodiphenol derivative (s). More particularly, the orthodiphenols that can be used in the process of the invention according to i) are in particular: flavanols such as catechin and epichatechin gallate, flavonols such as quercetin, anthocyanidins such as cyanidin, delphinidin, petunidine, anthocyanins or anthocyanins such as myrtillin, orthohydroxybenzoates, for example gallic acid salts, flavones such as luteolin, hydroxystilbenes, for example 3,3 'tetrahydroxy, -stilbene, optionally oxylated (for example glucosylated), - 3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine and its derivatives, - 2,3-dihydroxyphenylalanine and its derivatives, - 4,5-dihydroxyphenylalanine and its derivatives, - dihydroxycinnamates such as caffeic acid and chlorogenic acid, - orthopolyhydroxycoumarines, - orthopolyhydroxyisocoumarines, - orthopolyhydroxycoumarones, - orthopolyhydroxyisocoumarones, - orthopolyhydroxychalcones - orthopolyhydroxychromones, - orthopolyhydroxyquinones, - orthopolyhydroxyxanthones, - 1,2-dihydroxybenzene and its derivatives, - 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene and its derivatives, - 1,2,3-trihydroxybenzene and its derivatives, - 2 , 4.5 trihydroxytoluene and its derivatives, 15 - proanthocyanidins and especially proanthocyanidins Al, A2, B1, B2, B3 and Cl, - proanthocyanins, - tannic acid, - ellagic acid, 20 - and mixtures previous compounds. Especially catechin, quercetin, brazilin, haematein, hematoxylin, chlorogenic, caffeic, gallic acids, catechol, gallic acid, L DOPA, pelargonidine, cyanidine, (-) - Epicatechin, (-) - Epigallocatechin, (-) - Epigallocatechin 3-gallate (EGCG), (+) - Catechin, Isoquercetin, Pomiferin, Esculetin, 6,7-Dihydroxy-3- (3-hydroxy-2,4-dimethoxyphenyl) coumarin. Santalin AC, Mangiferine, Butein, Maritimetine, Sulfuretine, Robtein, Betanidine, Pericampylinone A, Theaflavin, Proanthocyanidin A2, Proanthocyanidin B2, Proanthocyanidin C1, Procyanidins DP 4-8, Tannic Acid, Purpurogalline, 5,6-Dihydroxy-2-methyl -1,4-naphthoquinone, Alizarin, Wedelolactone, Variegatic acid, Gomphidic acid, Xerocomic acid, Carnosol, and natural extracts containing them. By "carboxylates" is meant carboxylic acid salt. By "carboxylic acid" is meant a compound comprising at least one carboxylic acid group -C (O) -OH, preferably between 1 and 4 carboxylic acid groups such as 1 or 2. More particularly, the carboxylic acid is chosen from: i) (C1-C10) alkyl- [C (O) -OH] 'and ii) het- [C (O) -OH] n, where n is an integer from 1 to 4, preferably 1 to Hetero-cyclic group such as pyrrolidone, wherein the alkyl or hetero group may be optionally substituted by one or more groups, especially selected from OH, and (di) (C1-C6) (alkyl) amino. When the dye precursors have D and L forms, both forms can be used in the compositions according to the invention, as well as the racemates. Preferably, the ortho-diphenol (s) according to the invention are chosen from flavanols, flavonols, orthohydroxybenzoates, isoflavones and neoflavones. According to one embodiment, natural orthodiphenols are derived from extracts of animals, bacteria, fungi, algae, plants and fruits used in whole or in part. Especially concerning the plants, the extracts are from fruits including citrus fruits, vegetables, trees, shrubs. It is also possible to use mixtures of these extracts, rich in ortho-diphenols as defined above. Preferably, the natural orthodiphenol (s) of the invention are derived from extracts of plants or parts of plants. Within the meaning of the invention, these extracts will be assimilated as compounds a). The extracts are obtained by extraction of various parts of plants such as for example root, wood, bark, leaf, flower, fruit, seed, pod, peel. Among the plant extracts, there may be mentioned the extracts of tea leaves, rose.

Among the fruit extracts, mention may be made of extracts of apple, grapes (in particular grape seeds), or extracts of beans and / or pods of cocoa. Among the vegetable extracts, there may be mentioned potato extracts, onion peels. Among the extracts of wood of trees, one can quote the extracts of bark of pine, extracts of logwood. It is also possible to use mixtures of plant extracts. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the orthodiphenol derivative (s) are natural extracts rich in orthodiphenols. According to a preferred embodiment, the orthodiphenol derivative (s) are only natural extracts. Preferably, the orthodiphenol (s) according to the invention are chosen from catechin, quercetin, haematein, hematoxylin, brasiline, gallic acid, and natural extracts containing them chosen from grape pomace, pine bark, green tea, onion, cocoa bean, logwood, red wood and gall nut. More preferably still, the ortho-diphenol (s) used in one or more compositions according to the invention are chosen from catechin, quercetin and hematoxylin. The natural extracts according to the invention can be in the form of powders or liquids. The extracts of the invention are preferably in the form of powders.

According to the invention, the synthetic orthodiphenol derivative (s), natural (s), and / or the natural extract (s) used as an ingredient (a) in one or more cosmetic composition (s) useful in the process according to the invention preferably represent (s) from 0.001% to 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition (s) containing the orthodiphenols or the extract (s). As regards pure orthodiphenols, the content in the composition or compositions containing them is preferably between 0.001 and 5% by weight of each of these compositions.

With regard to the extracts, the content in the composition or compositions containing the extracts as such is preferably between 0.5 and 20% by weight of each of these compositions. (b) manganese or zinc salt

The dyeing process according to the invention uses one or more manganese salts (Mn) or one or more zinc salts (Zn). The manganese or zinc salt (s) may be used in one or more cosmetic compositions used during the dyeing process. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "salts" means the oxides of these metals, such as manganese oxides, and the salts themselves, derived in particular from the action of an acid on a metal.

Preferably, the salts are not oxides. Among the salts, mention may be made of halides such as chlorides, fluorides and iodides; sulphates, phosphates; nitrates; perchlorates and salts of carboxylic acids and polymeric salts and mixtures thereof.

More particularly, the manganese salt is different from manganese carbonate, manganese hydrogencarbonate or manganese dihydrogen carbonate. The carboxylic acid salts useful in the invention also include hydroxylated carboxylic acid salts such as gluconate. By way of example of polymeric salts, mention may be made of manganese pyrrolidone carboxylate. By way of example, mention may be made of manganese chloride, manganese fluoride, manganese acetate tetrahydrate, manganese lactate trihydrate, manganese phosphate, manganese iodide, manganese nitrate trihydrate, manganese bromide, Mn tetrahydrate perchlorate, manganese sulfate monohydrate and manganese gluconate. The salts used advantageously are manganese gluconate and manganese chloride. Among the zinc salts, mention may be made of zinc sulfate, zinc gluconate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate, zinc acetate, zinc glycinate and zinc aspartate.

The manganese and zinc salts can be introduced in solid form in the compositions or come from a natural, mineral or thermal water, rich in these ions or even seawater (dead sea in particular). They can also come from mineral compounds such as earths, ochres such as clays (green clay for example) or even plant extract containing them (see for example patent document FR 2,814,943). According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the manganese or zinc salts or salts used represent from 0.001% to () d% by weight approximately of the total weight of the composition (s) containing the metal salt (s) and still more preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight approximately. In particular, the metal salts of the invention are of oxidation states 2 such as Mn (II) and Zn (II). Preferably, the dyeing method of the invention uses one or more manganese salts, in particular the metal salts of Mn (II). Even more preferably, the manganese salt or salts are chosen from carboxylic acid salts of manganese, especially manganese gluconate and manganese halides, such as manganese chloride; and more particularly manganese gluconate. c) Hydrogen Peroxide or Hydrogen Peroxide Generating System In the context of the present invention, the third constituent is hydrogen peroxide or a system for generating hydrogen peroxide such as: a) urea peroxide ; b) polymer complexes which can release hydrogen peroxide, such as polyvinylpyrrolidone / H 2 O 2, in particular being in the form of powders and the other polymer complexes described in US 5,008,093; US 3,376,110; US 5,183,901; c) oxidases producing hydrogen peroxide in the presence of a suitable substrate (for example glucose in the case of glucose oxidase or uric acid with uricase); d) metal peroxides generating hydrogen peroxide in water such as calcium peroxide, magnesium peroxide; e) perborates; or f) percarborates. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition contains one or more hydrogen peroxide generator system (s) chosen from a) urea peroxide, b) polymeric complexes which can release hydrogen peroxide selected from polyvinylpyrrolidone / H 2 O 2; c) oxidases; e) perborates and f) percarborates. In particular, the third component is hydrogen peroxide.

Furthermore, the composition or compositions comprising hydrogen peroxide or the hydrogen peroxide generator may or may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in compositions for dyeing the hair and as defined below.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the hydrogen peroxide or hydrogen peroxide generator system (s) used is preferably from 0.001% to 12% by weight of hydrogen peroxide per relative to the total weight of the composition or compositions containing them or, more preferably, from 0.2% to 2.7% by weight.

d) Oi) carbonate (s) or system (generator) of (bi) carbonate (s) According to the present invention, the dyeing process uses one or more (bi) carbonates or one or more systems generating (bi) carbonates . The (bi) carbonates or the (bi) carbonate generating system (s) may be used in one or more cosmetic compositions during the coloring process. By "(bi) carbonate generator system" is meant a system that generates in situ the (bi) carbonate such as for example carbon dioxide in water or by dabbing carbonate with a mineral or organic acid.

The (bi) carbonate is or is selected from: a) alkali metal carbonates (Metz +, CO32-), alkaline earth metal (Met2 +, CO32-), ammonium ((R "4N + 2, CO32-) or phosphonium (R "4P +) 2, CO32- with Met 'representing an alkaline earth metal and Met representing an alkali metal, and R", which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a optionally substituted (C1-C6) alkyl group such as hydroxyethyl, b) bicarbonates, also known as hydrogenocarbonates, of the following formulas: - R '+, HCO3- with R' representing a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, an ammonium group R "41 \ 1 + - or phosphonium R" 4P + - wherein R ", which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, an optionally substituted (C1-C6) alkyl group such as hydroxyethyl and when R 'represents an atom of hydrogen hydrogen carbonate is then called dihydrogen carbonate (CO2, H2O); and - Met'2 + (HCO3-) 2 with Met 'representing an alkaline earth metal. More particularly, the (bi) carbonate is (are) chosen from alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium (bi) carbonates; preferentially the (bi) carbonates of alkali metals or of ammonium.

There may be mentioned carbonates or hydrogenocarbonates of Na, K, Mg, Ca and their mixtures, and in particular Na hydrogen carbonate. These hydrogencarbonates can come from natural water, for example spring water from the Vichy basin, from La Roche Posay, Badoit water (see patent, for example FR 2 814 943).

Especially include sodium carbonate [497-19-8] Na2CO3, sodium hydrogencarbonate or sodium bicarbonate [144-55-8] = NaHCO3, and sodium dihydrogen carbonate = Na (HCO3) 2. According to the invention, the (bi) carbonate agent (s) used represent, preferably, from 0.001% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition (s) containing the (bi) carbonate agent (s) and even more preferentially by 0.005%. at 5% by weight. Preferably, the (bi) carbonate used in the coloring process of the composition is ammonium (bi) carbonate or sodium bicarbonate.

e) basifying agent (s) different from or from bicarbonate (s) The basifying agent used in the dyeing process according to the invention as the fifth ingredient is different from the one or more ) iv) carbonates as defined previously. It is an agent for increasing the pH of the composition or compositions in which it is found. The basifying agent is a Bronsted, Lowry or Lewis base. It can be mineral or organic. In particular, said agent is chosen from i) ammonia, ii) alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and their derivatives iii) oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylene diamines, iv) mineral or organic hydroxides, v ) alkali metal silicates such as sodium metasilicates, vi) basic amino acids such as arginine, lysine, ornithine, citruline and hystidine, and vii) compounds of formula (II) following: Ra \ R b NW - N i \ R ~ Rd (II) in which: - W is a divalent (C1-C8) alkylene group, preferably propylene, optionally substituted in particular with a hydroxyl group or an alkyl radical C1 -C4; - Ra, Rb, Rc and Rd, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl or C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical. The inorganic or organic hydroxides, particularly the inorganic or organic hydroxides, are preferably chosen from i) the hydroxides of an alkali metal, ii) the hydroxides of an alkaline earth metal, such as hydroxides of sodium or potassium, iii) hydroxides of a transition metal, such as hydroxides of metals of groups III, IV, V and VI, iv) hydroxides of lanthanides or actinides, quaternary ammonium hydroxides and guanidinium hydroxide. Preferably, for the composition according to the invention or the process used in the invention, the basifying agent is not sodium hydroxide NaOH. More generally, and preferably for the composition according to the invention or the method used in the invention, the basifying agent is not an alkali metal hydroxide XOH with X = alkali metal. The hydroxide may be formed in situ such as, for example, guanidine hydroxide by reaction of calcium hydroxide and guanidine carbonate. The alkalinizing agent (s) d) as defined above preferably represent from 0.001% to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition (s) containing them. More particularly from 0.005% to 8% by weight of the composition.

Preferably, the alkaline agent (s) are chosen from alkanolamines, in particular monoethanolamine.

f) scandium salts: For the purposes of the present invention, the term "scandium salt" means the oxides of this metal and the salts themselves, derived in particular from the action of an acid on a metal. Preferably, the scandium salts are not oxides. Among the scandium salts, mention may be made of hydroxide, halides, such as chloride, sulphate, nitrate, salts of carboxylic acids such as acetate and gluconate, sulphonic acid salts, in particular (poly) halo (C1-C6) alkylsulfonates such as trifluoromethanesulfonate. By way of example, mention may be made of scandium hydroxide, scandium chloride, scandium sulphate, scandium nitrate, hydrated or non-hydrated scandium acetate and scandium trifluoromethanesulphonate. Preferably, the scandium salt used during the dyeing process is hydrated or unhydrated scandium acetate.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the molar amount of scandium salts used in the process or composition is equivalent in moles to those of the dyes. The scandium salt (s) is (are) present in the cosmetic composition (s) used in the process according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight relative to to the total weight of the composition or compositions containing them. Preferably, the scandium salts according to the invention are soluble in water in a proportion of at least 0.0001 g / l.

The scandium salts can be introduced in solid form in the compositions or come from a natural, mineral or thermal water rich in these ions or else from seawater (especially the dead sea). They can also come from mineral compounds such as earths, ochres such as clays (green clay for example) or even plant extract containing them (see for example patent document FR 2,814,943).

Water: According to one embodiment of the invention, water is preferably included in the process of the invention. It may come from the wetting of the keratin fibers and / or the composition or compositions comprising the compounds a) to f) as defined above or from one or more other compositions. Preferably, the water comes from at least one composition comprising at least one compound chosen from a) to f) as defined above.

cosmetic compositions: The cosmetic compositions according to the invention are cosmetically acceptable, that is to say that they comprise a coloring support which generally contains water or a mixture of water and one or more organic solvents. or a mixture of organic solvents.

By organic solvent is meant an organic substance capable of dissolving or dispersing another substance without chemically modifying it. organic solvents: As an organic solvent, mention may be made, for example, of lower C1-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, hexylene glycol, as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol.

The organic solvents are present in proportions preferably of between 1 and 40% by weight approximately relative to the total weight of the dye composition, and even more preferably between 5 and 30% by weight approximately. the adjuvants: The composition (s) of the dyeing process according to the invention may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in hair dyeing compositions, such as anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants, zwitterionic or their mixtures, anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers or their mixtures, mineral or organic thickeners, and in particular anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymeric associative thickeners, antioxidants, penetrating agents, sequestering agents, perfumes, buffers, dispersing agents, conditioning agents such as, for example, volatile or non-volatile silicones, modified or unmodified, film-forming agents, ceramides, preserving agents, opacifying agents.

Said adjuvants are preferably chosen from surfactants such as anionic, nonionic surfactants or mixtures thereof and inorganic or organic thickeners.

The adjuvants above are generally present in an amount for each of them between 0.01 and 40% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably between 0.1 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition or to the composition (s) useful in the coloring process according to the invention are not not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition or additions envisaged.

- Additional dyes: The dyeing process using the ingredients a) to f) as defined above can further implement one or more additional direct dyes. These direct dyes are, for example, chosen from those conventionally used in direct dyeing, and among which may be mentioned all the aromatic and / or nonaromatic dyes of current use such as neutral, benzene neutral, acidic or cationic direct dyes, direct dyes neutral azo, acidic or cationic, natural direct dyes other than orthodiphenols, quinone direct dyes and in particular neutral, acidic or cationic anthraquinone dyes, azine, triarylmethane, indoamine, methines, styryl, porphyrin, metalloporphyrin, direct dyes, phthalocyanines, methine cyanines, and fluorescent dyes. Among the natural direct dyes that may be mentioned are lawsone, juglone, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine, orceins. It is also possible to use the extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes, and in particular poultices or extracts made from henna. According to the invention, the direct dye or dyes used in the composition according to the invention which comprises the ingredients a) to f) as defined above, or the composition (s) of the dyeing process according to the invention represent preferably from about 0.001% to about 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition or composition (s) and even more preferably from about 0.05% to about 5% by weight. The composition according to the invention or the composition (s) of the process implementing the ingredients a) to f) as defined above may also comprise one or more oxidation bases and / or one or more couplers conventionally used to the dyeing of keratinous fibers. Among the oxidation bases, mention may be made of para-phenylenediamines, bis-phenylalkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, bis-para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and their addition salts. Among these couplers, mention may especially be made of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalenic couplers, heterocyclic couplers and their addition salts. The oxidation base (s) present in said composition (s) are used in the process are generally present each in an amount of between 0.001 to 10% by weight of the total weight. of the composition (s) containing them. The cosmetic composition (s) of the invention may be in various galenical forms, such as a powder, a lotion, a mousse, a cream, a gel or in any other form suitable for carrying out a dyeing keratinous fibers. They can also be packaged in a pump bottle without propellant or under pressure in an aerosol bottle in the presence of a propellant and form a foam. - pH of the combosition (s):

According to the present invention, the pH of at least one of the cosmetic compositions comprising at least one of the ingredients a), b), d), e) and / or f) is alkaline, ie greater than 7, preferably between 8 and 12 and more particularly between 8 and 10. In other words, at least one of the cosmetic compositions used during the dyeing process of the invention has an alkaline pH, that is to say greater than 7. According to one embodiment, the pH of the cosmetic composition (s) containing d) one or more (bi) carbonate (s) or one or more system (s) generator (s) of (bi) carbonate (s) is alkaline, greater than 7, preferably between 8 and 12 and, more particularly, between 8 and 10. Preferably, the (bi) carbonates or the bi-carbonate (s) generator system (s) are used in a single cosmetic composition and the pH of said composition is alkaline, ie greater than 7, preferably between 8 and 12 and, more particularly, between 8 and 10. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the pH of the composition cosmetic comprising d) one or more (bi) carbonates or one or more generator systems e (bi) carbonate (s) and e) one or more agent (s) alkalinizing (s) different from (bi) carbonate (s) is alkaline, greater than 7, preferably between 8 and 12 and, more particularly between 8 and 10. In other words, preferably, the (bi) carbonates or the (s) (b) carbonate (s) generator system (s) and the alkalinizing agent (s) different ( s) (bi) carbonates e) are implemented in a single composition and the pH of said composition is alkaline, ie greater than 7, preferably between 8 and 12 and, more particularly, between 8 and 10, in particular between 9 and 10.

Even more preferably, the (bi) carbonate selected from ammonium bicarbonates and alkalinizing agents chosen from alkanolamines are used in a single composition and the pH of said composition is alkaline, ie greater than 7, preferably between 8 and 12 and, more particularly, between 8 and 10, in particular between 9 and 10. According to one embodiment, if one or more cosmetic compositions used during the coloring process do not contain (bi) carbonates, the pH of the composition or compositions containing hydrogen peroxide or a system for generating hydrogen peroxide is preferably less than 7, more particularly between 1 and 5. In particular, the cosmetic composition consisting solely of peroxide of hydrogen has a pH of less than 7.

Preferably, the composition (s) containing the orthodiphenol (s) and not containing (bi) carbonates have a pH of less than 7, and preferably of between 3 and 6.5. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition (s) containing the manganese or zinc salt (s) b) and not containing (bi) carbonates have a pH of less than 7, and preferably of between 3 and 6.5. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition (s) containing scandium salt (s) f) and not containing (bi) carbonates have a pH of less than 7, and preferably of between 3 and 6, 5. The pH of these compositions can be adjusted to the desired value by means of alkalinizing agents as defined previously in d) or from acidifying agents normally used for dyeing keratin fibers or else using conventional buffer systems. . Among the acidifying agents of the compositions used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulphonic acids. Among the alkalinizing agents are the agents as defined previously in "d) agent (s) alkalinizing (s)". - staining process in one or more steps

According to one embodiment, the process for dyeing keratinous fibers is carried out in a single step by application to the keratinous fibers of an aqueous dye composition comprising a) one or more orthodiphenol derivative (s), b ) one or more manganese salt (s) or one or more zinc salt (s), c) hydrogen peroxide or one or more hydrogen peroxide generator system (s), d) a or more (bi) carbonate (s) or a plurality of (s) carbonate (s) generating system (s), e) one or more basifying agent (s) other than (bi) carbonate (s) ( s), and f) one or more scandium salts. The pause time after application is generally set between 3 and 120 minutes and preferably between 10 and 60 minutes and more preferably between 15 and 45 minutes. In this embodiment, the dye cosmetic composition comprising the ingredients a), b), c), d), e) and f) has an alkaline pH, thus greater than 7, preferably between 8 and 12 and, more particularly, between 8 and 10. According to another embodiment, the method for dyeing keratinous fibers is carried out in two or three steps. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the process for dyeing keratinous fibers is carried out in two stages by the application to the keratin fibers of a dye composition comprising ingredients a), b), c), d) and e) as defined above, then, in a second step, a composition comprising the ingredient f) as defined above is applied to said keratin fibers, it being understood that at least one of the two compositions is aqueous. Preferably, the composition comprising the ortho-diphenol derivative (s) is aqueous. Even more preferentially, the two compositions used in this embodiment are aqueous. For this process, the pause time after application for the first step is generally set between 3 and 120 minutes and preferably between 10 and 60 minutes and more preferably between 15 and 45 minutes. The application time of the composition comprising the ingredient f) during the second step is generally set between 3 and 120 minutes and preferably between 3 and 60 minutes and more preferably between 5 and 30 minutes. According to another embodiment, the method for staining keratin fibers is in three steps. In a first variant of the three-step process, the first step consists in applying to said fibers a composition comprising ingredients a), b) and c) as defined above, then, in a second step, a composition comprising the ingredients of ) and e) as defined above is applied to said fibers, then, in a third step, a composition comprising the ingredient f) is applied to said fibers, it being understood that at least one of the three compositions is aqueous. Preferably, the composition comprising the ortho-diphenol derivative (s) is aqueous. Even more preferentially, the three compositions used in this embodiment are aqueous.

In a second variant of the three-step process, the first step consists in applying to said fibers a composition comprising ingredients a) and b) as defined above, then, in a second step, a composition c), d) and e ) as defined above is applied to said fibers, then, in a third step, a composition comprising the ingredient f) is applied to said fibers, it being understood that at least one of the three compositions is aqueous. For these last two processes, the pause time after application for the first step is generally set between 3 and 120 minutes and preferably between 10 and 60 minutes and more preferably between 15 and 45 minutes. The application time of the composition used during the second step is generally set between 3 and 120 minutes and preferably between 3 and 60 minutes and more preferably between 5 and 30 minutes. The application time of the composition used in the third step is generally set between 3 and 120 minutes and preferably between 3 and 60 minutes and more preferably between 5 and 30 minutes.

Preferably, the process for dyeing keratinous fibers is carried out in three steps. In particular, the dyeing process is carried out in three stages by application to the keratinous fibers of: i) a cosmetic composition comprising a) one or more ortho-diphenol derivative (s), b) one or more salts ( s) of manganese chosen from carboxylic acid salts of manganese, and c) hydrogen peroxide, ii) a cosmetic composition comprising d) one or more (bi) carbonate (s) chosen from bicarbonates of ammonium and e) one or more alkalinizing agents chosen from alkanolamines, iii) a cosmetic composition comprising f) one or more scandium salts, in particular scandium carboxylic acid salts, especially scandium acetate, hydrated or otherwise hydrated, it being understood that the composition comprising the ingredients d) and e) has an alkaline pH, that is to say greater than 7, in particular between 8 and 10, and that the composition comprising the scandium salts is applied to the keratinous fibers. ues at the last step of the staining process.

More particularly, the ortho-diphenol (s) used in the composition (i) may be chosen from catechin, quercetin, haematein, hematoxylin, brasiline, gallic acid, and natural extracts containing them selected from the group consisting of grape marc, pine bark, green tea, onion, cocoa bean, logwood, red wood and walnut. Even more particularly, the ortho-diphenol (s) are chosen from catechin, quercetin, hematoxylin and gallic acid. Whatever the mode of application, the application temperature is generally between room temperature (15 to 25 ° C) and 80 ° C and more particularly between 15 and 45 ° C. Thus, it is advantageous, after application of the composition according to the invention, to subject the hair to a heat treatment by heating at a temperature of between 30 and 60 ° C. In practice, this operation can be carried out by means of a hairdressing helmet, a hair dryer, an infrared dispenser and other conventional heating devices. Both heating and smoothing of the hair can be used as a heating iron at a temperature of between 60 and 220 ° C and preferably between 120 and 200 ° C. Whatever the mode of application, wiping and / or drying of the keratinous fibers may optionally be carried out between each step, in particular before carrying out the step comprising the application of a composition comprising ingredient d) and / or e), and in particular before carrying out the last step comprising the application of a composition containing the scandium salt (s) f) - The mechanical wiping and intermediate drying steps are also called "non-rinsed mastered" to differentiate themselves the "classic rinsing with large water" and the "non-rinsing". By "mechanical wiping" of the fibers is meant the rubbing of an absorbent object on the fibers and the physical removal by the absorbent object of the surplus ingredient (s) that has not penetrated the fibers. The absorbent object may be a piece of cloth such as a particularly sponge towel, a cloth, absorbent paper such as paper towels. According to a particularly advantageous method of the invention, the mechanical wiping is carried out without total drying of the fiber, leaving the fiber wet. Drying means the action of evaporating organic solvents and / or water in one or more compositions used in the process of the invention, comprising or not one or more ingredients a) to f) such as previously defined.

The drying can be done by thermal source (convection, conduction or radiation) by sending for example a hot gas stream such as the air necessary for the evaporation of the solvent or solvents. As a thermal source there may be mentioned a hair dryer, hair helmets, a hair straightener, an infrared dispenser and other conventional heating devices. A particular embodiment of the invention relates to a dyeing process which is carried out at room temperature (25 ° C). In all the particular modes and variants of the processes described above, the compositions mentioned are ready-to-use compositions which may result from the extemporaneous mixing of two or more compositions, and in particular of compositions present in dyeing kits.

dyeing device or "kit" Another object of the invention is a multi-compartment device or "kit" of dyeing. Advantageously, this kit comprises from 2 to 7 compartments containing from 2 to 7 compositions in which the ingredients are distributed a) one or more derivative (s) of orthodiphenol (s), b) one or more salt (s) of manganese or one or more zinc salt (s), (c) hydrogen peroxide or one or more hydrogen peroxide generator systems, (d) one or more (b) carbonate (s) or one or more system (s) generator (s) of bicarbonate (s), e) one or more agent (s) alkalinizing (s) different from (bi) carbonate (s) and f) one or more salt (s) of scandium, said compositions being aqueous or powdery, with at least one of said compositions being aqueous. According to a first variant, the kit comprises seven compartments, the first six compartments respectively comprising the powder ingredients a), b), c), d), e) and f) as defined above and in the sixth compartment containing a composition. aqueous such as water. In this case, the compound (s) c) are precursors of hydrogen peroxide.

Another variant relates to a kit with six compartments, one of which contains an aqueous composition, and the other compartments comprise an ingredient a) to f) as defined above. In another variant, the device comprises six compartments: a first compartment comprising a composition containing a) one or more orthodiphenol derivative (s), a second compartment comprising b) one or more manganese salts or one or more zinc salts, a third compartment comprising c) hydrogen peroxide or one or more hydrogen peroxide generator system (s), a fourth compartment containing d) one or more (bi) carbonate (s) or one or more bi-carbonate generating systems, a fifth compartment containing e) one or more alkalizing agent (s) different from the bi-carbonate (s), and a sixth compartment containing f) one or more scandium salts. Preferably, at least one of these compositions is aqueous. Another preferred embodiment relates to a device comprising four compartments: (i) a first compartment contains a composition containing: a) one or more orthodiphenol derivative (s); and (ii) a second compartment contains a composition containing: (b) one or more manganese salt (s) or one or more zinc salt (s); (c) hydrogen peroxide or one or more generator system (s) (s) hydrogen peroxide, i) a third compartment contains a composition containing d) one or more (bi) carbonate (s) or one (s) system (s) generator (s) of (bi) carbonates; and e) one or more basifying agent (s) different from the (b) carbonate (s), (iii) a fourth compartment contains a composition containing f) one or more scandium salt (s) . In this other embodiment, at least one of the four compositions is aqueous and the derivative (s) orthodiphenol (s) may be in powder form. It is also possible to have a four-compartment kit, the first i) containing a composition comprising a) one or more orthodiphenol derivative (s) and b) one or more manganese salts or one or more zinc salt (s), the second ii) containing a composition comprising c) hydrogen peroxide or a hydrogen peroxide generating system and the third iii) containing a composition comprising d) the agent (bi) carbonate and e) the different basifying agent (bi) carbonate, and the fourth iv) containing a composition comprising f) one or more scandium salt (s). In this other kit at least one of the compositions is preferably aqueous. And more particularly, this composition contains hydrogen peroxide. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the kit comprises three compartments: a first compartment comprising a composition containing a) one or more derivatives of orthodiphenol (s), b) one or more salts of manganese or a plurality of salts (s) zinc, (c) hydrogen peroxide or one or more hydrogen peroxide generator systems, a second compartment containing (d) one or more (bi) carbonate (s) and e) one or more basifying agent (s) different (s) of (s) carbonate (s), and a third compartment f) containing one or more salt (s) scandium. Among the kits with three compartments are also possible the kits which contain in a first compartment a composition comprising a), b), d), and e) as defined above, in a second compartment a composition comprising c) as defined above and in a third compartment a composition comprising f) as defined above.

In these two variants of three-compartment kit, the first composition contained in the first compartment comprising either a), b) and c) or a), b), d) and e) is in powder form and preferably the second composition is aqueous. According to one variant, the device according to the invention further comprises an additional composition comprising one or more treatment agents. The compositions of the device according to the invention are packaged in separate compartments, possibly accompanied by appropriate, identical or different application means, such as brushes, brushes or sponges. The device mentioned above can also be equipped with means for delivering the desired mixture onto the hair, for example such as the devices described in patent FR 2586913.

The present invention also relates to the use of one or more scandium salts as defined above, for improving the chromaticity and / or the rise in the color of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, colored from of one or more derivatives of orthodiphenol (s) as defined above. In particular, the invention relates to the use of one or more scandium salts in a dye composition comprising one or more derivatives of orthodiphenol (s) to improve the chromaticity and / or the rise in the color of the dyes. keratinous fibers. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "rise" of the color of the keratinous fibers is understood to mean the variation in color between strands of unstained white hair and strands of colored hair. The following example serves to illustrate the invention without being limiting in nature.

In the following example, the rise in the DE * coloration and the chromaticity C * between a dyeing process according to the invention and an identical dyeing process which does not imply the use of a composition are compared. comprising scandium salts.

1. Compositions tested Compositions Al A2 A3 Catechin a) 0.420g - - Hematoxylin a) - 0.420g - Quercetin a) - - 0.420g Gluconate 0.003g 0.003g 0.003g manganese b) Peroxide 1.2g 1.2g 1.2g of hydrogen * c) Ethanol 13.2g 13.2g 13.2g Propylene glycol 13.2g 13.2g 13.2g Water Qsp 100g Qsp 100g Qsp 100g (*) 0.144 g of hydrogen peroxide at 167 volumes Composition B (developer ) Quantity Sodium bicarbonate d) 2,6g Monoethanolamine e) 2g Demineralized water qs 100g Composition C (post-treatment) Amount Sc (OAc) 3 f) 0.40g Demineralized water qs 100g 39 15. Operating mode

Each composition A1, A2 and A3 is applied to strands of hair 90% white permed, at a rate of 12 grams of composition per 1 gram of hair. It is then left for 30 minutes at a temperature of 50 ° C. At the end, the impregnated hair is wiped with an absorbent paper towel to remove the excess composition. Composition B is then applied to each of the locks at a rate of 4 grams of composition per gram of lock. Composition B has a pH = 9.5. The exposure time is 10 minutes at room temperature. The hair is then rinsed with water, washed with a classic shampoo and dried in the helmet. Composition C is then applied to each of the locks at the rate of 4 grams of composition per gram of lock; the exposure time is 10 minutes at room temperature. The hair is then rinsed with water, washed with a classic shampoo and dried in the helmet. 3. Colorimetric results

The rise of the DE * coloration and the chromaticity C * are compared between a dyeing process according to the invention and an identical process, but which uses water in place of the composition C based on scandium salts. The color of the locks was evaluated in the CIE L * a * b * system using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM2600D colorimeter. In this system L * a * b *, the three parameters denote respectively the intensity of the color (L *), a * indicates the green / red color axis and b * the blue / yellow color axis. The color variation between the locks of white hair with 90% untreated (90 BP) untreated white (control) and after treatment or staining are defined by (DE *) according to the following equation: 40 AE * = V (L) * -Lo *) 2 + (a * -a. *) ~ + (B * -bo *) ~

In this equation, L *, a * and b * represent the values measured on locks of hair after staining and Lo *, ao * and bo * represent the values measured on locks of unstained virgin hair. The higher the value of AE *, the better the rise of the color. The chromaticity has also been measured by the values a * and b * and is obtained from the following formula: C * _, Ja * 2 + b * 2 The greater the value of C *, the more chromatic the color obtained . The values of the rise in coloring AE * and the chromaticity C * are given in the tables below: Ingredients a) Catechin Quercetin Hematoxylin AE * C * AE * C * AE * C * Without salts of 22 19.8 11 , 9 18.5 26.5 10.9 scandium (comparative) With salts of 22.8 24.3 13.9 20.7 27.8 13.0 scandium (invention) It is found that the coloring process according to The invention makes it possible to lead to more chromatic colorations whatever the orthodiphenol derivative used. Moreover, the dyeing process according to the invention leads to a satisfactory rise in color.

It is visually apparent that the process of the invention achieves a better color increase and color chromaticity than that obtained with the comparative method. This is confirmed by the colorimetric measurements which demonstrate that the dyeing method according to the invention makes it possible to lead to more chromatic colorings C * and to more satisfactory color rise whatever the orthodiphenol derivative employed with respect to a process which does not involve no post-treatment with a scandium salt.

Claims (17)

1. A process for coloring keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, in which said fibers are treated with one or more cosmetic compositions containing, taken together or separately in the one or more compositions, the following ingredients: a) one or more derivatives of orthodiphenol (s), (b) one or more salt (s) of manganese or one or more salt (s) of zinc, (c) hydrogen peroxide or one or more systems (s) ) hydrogen peroxide generator (s), d) one or more (bi) carbonate (s) or one or more bi-carbonate generator (s), and e) one or more alkalinizing agent (s) different from the bicarbonate (s), and f) one or more scandium salt (s); it being understood that the pH of at least one of the compositions comprising at least one of ingredients a), b), d), e) and / or f) is alkaline, being greater than 7 and that the composition comprising f) the scandium salt (s) is applied to the keratinous fibers in the last step of the dyeing process. 2. The method of dyeing according to claim 1, characterized in that the derivative (s) of orthodiphenol (s) are chosen from derivatives (s) natural orthodiphenol (s). 3. Staining process according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that ingredient a) is an aromatic ring orthodiphenol selected from benzene, naphthalene, tetrahydronaphthalene, indane, indene, anthracene, phenanthrene, isoindole, indoline, isoindoline, benzofuran, dihydrobenzofuran, chroman, isochromane, chromene, isochromen, quinoline, tetrahydroquinoline and isoquinoline, said aromatic rings having at least minus two hydroxy groups carried by two adjacent contiguous atoms of the aromatic ring. 4. Staining process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that ingredient a) is an orthodiphenol of formula (I) below or one of its oligomers, in salified form or not: OH (I) In formula (I) in which the substituents: R1 to R4, which may be identical or different, represent: a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, a hydroxyl radical, a carboxyl radical, a carboxylic acid radical; alkyl or alkoxycarbonyl, an optionally substituted amino radical, an optionally substituted linear or branched alkyl radical, an optionally substituted linear or branched alkenyl radical, an optionally substituted cycloalkyl radical, an alkoxy radical, an alkoxyalkyl radical, an alkoxyaryl radical, the aryl group possibly being substituted, an aryl radical, a substituted aryl radical, a saturated or unsaturated heterocyclic radical, bearing or not a charge, cationic or anionic, optionally substituted and / or optionally fused with an aromatic ring, said aromatic ring being optionally substituted, - a radical containing one or more silicon atoms, - or two substituents carried by two adjacent carbon atoms R1 - R2, Rz - R3 or R3 - R4 together with the carbon atoms carrying them a saturated or unsaturated ring, aromatic or not, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms and optionally condensed with one or more saturated or unsaturated rings optionally containing one or more heteroatoms. 5. Staining process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the derivative (s) orthodiphenol (s) are chosen from: - flavonols, - anthocyanidins, - anthocyanins or anthocyanins, - the orthohydroxybenzoates, - flavones, - hydroxystilbenes, - 3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine and its derivatives, - 2,3-dihydroxyphenylalanine and its derivatives, - 4,5-dihydroxyphenylalanine and its derivatives, - dihydroxycinnamates, - orthopolyhydroxycoumarines - orthopolyhydroxyisocoumarins - orthopolyhydroxycoumarones - orthopolyhydroxyisocoumarones - orthopolyhydroxychalcones - orthopolyhydroxychromones - orthopolyhydroxyquinones - orthohydroxyxanthones - 1,2 dihydroxybenzene and its derivatives - 1,2,4 trihydroxybenzene and its derivatives, - 1,2,3-trihydroxybenzene and its derivatives, - 2,4,5-trihydroxytoluene and its derivatives, - proanthocyanidins, - proathoc yannins, tannic acid, ellagic acid, and mixtures of the foregoing compounds. 6. The method of dyeing according to any one of claims 2 to 5, characterized in that the derivative (s) orthodiphenol (s) natural (s) are selected from the extracts of animals, bacteria, fungi, of algae, plants and fruits. 7. Coloring process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that: the manganese salts are chosen from: i) manganese oxides and ii) halides, sulphates, phosphates, nitrates and perchlorates; salts of carboxylic acids such as gluconates and mixtures thereof, and the zinc salts are chosen from zinc sulphate, zinc gluconate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate, zinc acetate, zinc glucinate and zinc aspartate; and more particularly, salts b) are carboxylic acid salts of manganese. 8. The method of coloring according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ingredient c) is hydrogen peroxide or urea peroxide. 9. Coloring process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the or (bi) carbonates are alkali, alkaline-earth or ammonium (bi) carbonates. 10. The method of dyeing according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkali or different alkali or (s) bicarbonate (s) are selected from: - ammonia, - alkanolamines, - ethylenediamines oxyethylenated ethoxylated ethylene diamines; inorganic or organic hydroxides; alkali metal silicates; amino acids; and compounds of the following formula (II): ## STR2 ## formula (II) in which: - W is a divalent (C1-C8) alkylene group, preferably propylene, optionally substituted in particular with a hydroxyl group or a C1-C4 alkyl radical; Ra, Rb, Rc and Rd, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical; preferably, the alkaline agent (s) e) are chosen from alkanolamines, in particular monoethanolamine. 11. A dyeing process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the scandium salts are chosen from scandium hydroxide, scandium halide such as scandium chloride, scandium sulfate, nitrate of scandium, carboxylic acid salts of scandium such as scandium acetate hydrated or unhydrated, and (poly) halo (C1-COalkylsulfonates such as scandium trifluoromethanesulfonate. 12. Staining process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is carried out in one step and that it consists in applying to the keratin fibers an aqueous composition comprising a), b), c), d ), e) and f) as defined in any one of the preceding claims. 13. A method of coloring according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the first step consists in applying to said fibers a composition comprising the ingredients a), b) and c) as defined according to any one Claims 1 to 8, then, in a second step, a composition comprising the ingredients d) and e) as defined according to Claims 9 and 10, then, in a third step, a composition comprising the ingredient f) as defined according to claim 11 is applied to said fibers, it being understood that at least one of the three compositions is aqueous. 14. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 11 and 13, characterized in that a mechanical wiping and / or drying and / or rinsing keratin fibers is performed before performing the step comprising the application of a composition comprising ingredient d) and / or e) as defined in any one of claims 1, 9 or 10. 15. Cosmetic composition for dyeing keratin fibers containing compounds a), b), c), d), e) and f) as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 11. 16. Multi-compartment device, characterized in that it comprises from 2 to 6 compartments containing from 2 to 6 compositions, in which are distributed the ingredients a), b), c), d), e) and f) such as defined in any one of claims 1 to 11, said compositions being aqueous or powder, with at least one of these compositions being aqueous. 17. Use of one or more scandium salts as defined in claims 1 or 11, for improving the chromaticity and / or the rise in color of keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as hair, colored from one or more ortho-diphenol derivative (s) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 6.