WO2011086284A1

WO2011086284A1 - Composition for dyeing keratin fibers, including at least one ortho-diphenol derivative, one chemical oxidizing agent, and one alkalinizing agent

Info

Publication number: WO2011086284A1
Application number: PCT/FR2010/052843
Authority: WO
Inventors: Christophe Rondot
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2009-12-23
Filing date: 2010-12-21
Publication date: 2011-07-21
Also published as: FR2954134A1

Abstract

The invention relates to a method for dyeing keratin fibers, implementing: a) at least one ortho-diphenol (ODP) derivative; b) at least one chemical oxidizing agent, which may be supported or not supported, selected from among: b-1) ozone; b-2) alkali metal or quaternary ammonium persalts; b-3) C₁-C₆aliphatic and C₆-C₂₀ aromatic organic peracids and the percarboxylate forms thereof; b-4) organic peroxides; b-5) oxidizing anions; b-6) stable radicals having an N-oxy (NO) group; b-7) hypervalent iodine derivatives; b-8) the following organic compounds: N-halogenosuccinimides, trichloroisocyanuric acid, N-hydroxyphthalimide, linear or branched C₁-C₁₀ alkyl nitrites; the optional supports of the b-1) to b-8) oxidizing agents can be selected from silica, alumina, charcoal, and charged or neutral polymers; and c) at least one alkalinizing agent; with the proviso that at the end of the method the pH is alkaline, preferably 8 to 12. The invention also relates to a composition including a) to c), and to the use of a) to c) for dyeing keratin fibers. The hair dyeing method enables better dyeing effects, which are more uniform, colorful, and long-lasting, and which do not negatively affect the cosmetic properties of the keratin fibers, to be achieved from ortho-diphenol extracts, particularly natural ortho-diphenol extracts.

Description

A COMPOSITION FOR COLORING KERATIN FIBERS COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE ORTHODIPHENOL DERIVATIVE, A CHEMICAL OXIDIZING AGENT AND A

The invention relates to a composition comprising a) at least one orthodiphenol derivative, b) at least one chemical oxidizing agent, c) at least one basifying agent; a process for dyeing keratinous fibers by treating said fibers implementing ingredients a), b) and c) and their use for dyeing keratinous fibers. It is known to obtain so-called "permanent" dyes with dyeing compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, generally called oxidation bases, such as ortho or para-phenylenediamines, ortho or para-aminophenols and compounds. heterocyclic. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, when combined with oxidizing products, can give rise to colored compounds by a process of oxidative condensation. It is also known that the shades obtained can be varied by combining these oxidation bases with couplers or color modifiers, the latter being chosen in particular from aromatic meta-diamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds such as indole compounds. This oxidation dyeing process consists in applying to the keratinous fibers, bases or a mixture of bases and couplers with hydrogen peroxide (H ₂ O ₂ or hydrogen peroxide) as an oxidizing agent, to be diffused then rinse the fibers. The resulting dyes are permanent, powerful, and resistant to external agents, including light, weather, washing, perspiration and friction,

However, commercial hair dyes that contain them may have disadvantages such as staining, odor problems, comfort and degradation of keratin fibers. This is particularly the case with oxidation stains.

In the field of coloring, it is also known to color keratin materials such as hair or skin from orthodiphenol compounds in the presence of a metal salt including Mn and / or Zn. In particular patent applications FR 2 814 943, FR 2 814 945, FR 2 814 946, FR 2 814 947, provide compositions for dyeing the skin or keratin fibers, comprising a dye precursor which contains at least one orthodiphenol, salts and oxides of Mn and / or Zn, alkalines of hydrogen carbonate type in a particular ratio Mn, Zn / hydrogencarbonate and optionally an enzyme. According to these documents it is possible to obtain dyes of keratin materials with oxygen from the air. However, the colorations obtained are insufficiently intense, especially in the case of hair fibers.

There is therefore a real need to develop staining methods that make it possible to obtain powerful colorations from orthodiphenols, in particular from natural extract rich in orthodiphenols, while limiting the discoloration of keratin fibers. In particular, there is a need to obtain less aggressive colorings for the hair and at the same time that resist external agents (light, bad weather, shampoo), which are stubborn and homogeneous, low selectivity of the coloring between the root and the tip, while remaining powerful and / or chromatic.

This object is achieved by the present invention which relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibers, wherein said fibers are treated with:

a) one or more derivatives of orthodiphenol (s),

b) one or more chemical oxidizing agent (s) supported or not, selected from: b-1) ozone;

b-2) alkali metal or quaternary ammonium persalts;

b-3) aliphatic organic peracids -C ₆ aromatic C ₆ -C ₂ o and forms percarboxylates;

b-4) organic peroxides;

b-5) oxidizing anions;

b-6) N-oxy stable radicals (NO);

b-7) hypervalent derivatives of iodine;

b-8) the following organic compounds: N-halosuccinimides, trichloroisocyanuric acid, N-hydroxyphthalimide, linear or branched C-1-C-10 alkyl nitrites;

the optional supports of the oxidants b-1) to b-8) which may be selected from silica, alumina, charcoal, charged or neutral polymers; and

(c) one or more basifying agent (s);

it being understood that the pH at the end of the process is alkaline is greater than 7 and preferably between 8 and 12. Particularly between 8 and 10.5.

Another subject of the invention relates to a cosmetic composition for dyeing keratin fibers, comprising:

one or more ingredient (s) a) as previously defined;

one or more ingredient (s) b) as defined previously and one or more ingredient (s) c) as defined previously;

it being understood that the pH of the composition is alkaline is greater than 7 and preferably between 8 and 12. Particularly between 8 and 10.5. Another object of the invention relates to a multi-compartment device comprising the ingredients a) to c) as defined above.

Another subject of the invention relates to the use for the coloration of keratin fibers such as the hair of the combination of ingredients a) with b) and with c) also noted combination of ingredients a) + b) + c) with a), b) and c) as defined above.

The method according to the invention has the advantage of coloring human keratinous fibers, with results of powerful coloring, chromatic, resistant to washes, perspiration, sebum and light and more durable without alteration of said fibers. In addition, the colorations obtained from the process give homogeneous colors from the root to the tip of a fiber (low color selectivity). a) orthodiphenol derivative:

A particular embodiment of the invention relates to derivatives of orthodiphenols or mixtures of compounds comprising at least one aromatic ring, preferably a benzene ring, comprising at least two hydroxy groups (OH) carried by two adjacent carbon atoms of the aromatic ring which are not autoxydisable indole derivatives. More particularly, they are different from 5,6-dihydroxyindole.

The aromatic ring may be more particularly a fused aryl or fused heteroaromatic ring, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, such as benzene, naphthalene, tetrahydronaphthalene, indane, indene, anthracene, phenanthrene, and the like. isoindole, indoline, isoindoline, benzofuran, dihydrobenzofuran, chroman, isochromane, chromene, isochromene, quinoline, tetrahydroquinoline and isoquinoline, said aromatic ring having at least two hydroxy groups carried by two adjacent carbon atoms of the aromatic ring. Preferably, the aromatic ring of the orthodiphenol derivatives according to the invention is a benzene ring.

By condensed ring is meant that at least two saturated or unsaturated cycles, heterocyclic or otherwise, have a common bond ie at least one ring is attached to another cycle. Orthodiphenols according to the invention may be salified or not. They can also be in the form of aglygone (without bound sugar) or in the form of glycosylated compounds.

More particularly, the orthodiphenol derivative a) represents a compound of formula (I), or one of these oligomers, in salified form or not:

formula (I) in which the substituents:

Ri to R ₄ , identical or different, represent:

a hydrogen atom,

a halogen atom,

a hydroxy radical,

a carboxyl radical,

an alkyl or alkoxycarbonyl carboxylate radical,

an optionally substituted amino radical,

an optionally substituted linear or branched alkyl radical,

an optionally substituted linear or branched alkenyl radical,

an optionally substituted cycloalkyl radical,

an alkoxy radical,

an alkoxyalkyl radical,

an alkoxyaryl radical, the aryl group possibly being substituted, an aryl radical,

a substituted aryl radical,

a heterocyclic radical, saturated or unsaturated, bearing or not a cationic or anionic charge, optionally substituted and / or optionally fused with an aromatic ring, preferably benzene, said aromatic ring being optionally substituted especially by one or more hydroxyl or glycosyloxy groups,

a radical containing one or more silicon atoms,

Where two of the substituents carried by two adjacent carbon atoms R 1 - R ₂ , R ₂ - R ₃ or R ₃ - R ₄ together with the carbon atoms carrying them a saturated or unsaturated ring, aromatic or otherwise, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms and optionally condensed with one or more saturated or unsaturated rings optionally containing one or more heteroatoms. Especially Ri to R ₄ together form from one to four rings. A particular embodiment of the invention relates to orthodiphenol derivatives of formula (I) in which two adjacent substituents R 1 - R ₂ , R ₂ - R ₃ or R ₃ - R ₄ can not form with the carbon atoms that carry them a pyrrolyl radical. More particularly, R ₂ and R ₃ can not form a pyrrolyl radical fused to the benzene ring bearing the two hydroxyls.

The saturated or unsaturated cycles, optionally condensed, may also be optionally substituted.

The alkyl radicals are saturated, linear or branched, generally C ₁ -C ₂₀ hydrocarbon radicals _, especially C ₁ -C ₁₀ radicals, preferably C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl radicals, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, pentyl and hexyl radicals. .

The alkenyl radicals are hydrocarbon radicals, linear or branched, unsaturated C ₂ -C ₂ o; preferably comprising at least one double bond such as ethylene, propylene, butylene, pentylene, methyl-2-propylene and decylene.

The aryl radicals are mono or polycyclic carbon radicals, condensed or not, preferably comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and of which at least one ring is aromatic; preferably chosen from the aryl radical is phenyl, biphenyl, naphthyl, indenyl, anthracenyl, and tetrahydronaphthyl.

Alkoxy radicals are alkyl-oxy radicals with alkyl as defined above, preferably C1-C1 _0, such as methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy and butoxy.

Alkyl alkoxy groups are preferably alkoxy (C1-C2 ₀₎ aryl (C

C2 ₀ ), such as methoxymethyl, ethoxymethyl, methoxyethyl, ethoxyethyl, and the like.

The cycloalkyl radicals are in general the C ₄ -C ₈ cycloalkyl radicals, preferably the cyclopentyl and cyclohexyl radicals. The cycloalkyl radicals may be substituted cycloalkyl radicals, in particular with alkyl, alkoxy, carboxylic acid, hydroxy, amine and ketone groups.

The alkyl or alkenyl radicals, when they are optionally substituted, may be substituted by at least one substituent carried by at least one carbon atom chosen from:

a halogen atom;

a hydroxyl group;

a C1-C2 alkoxy radical;

a C1-C10 alkoxycarbonyl radical; a C ₂ -C ₄ (poly) -hydroxyalkoxy radical;

an amino radical;

a 5- or 6-membered heterocycloalkyl radical;

a 5- or 6-membered optionally cationic heteroaryl radical, preferentially imidazolium, and optionally substituted with a (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl radical, preferentially methyl;

an amino radical substituted with one or two identical or different C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl radicals optionally carrying at least:

a hydroxy group,

an amino group optionally substituted with one or two optionally substituted C ₃ -C ₃ alkyl radicals, said alkyl radicals being able to form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a 5- to 7-membered heterocycle, optionally saturated or unsaturated; substituted optionally comprising at least one other heteroatom different or different from nitrogen,

a quaternary ammonium group -N ⁺ R'R "R"', M ^" for which R', R", R '", which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, and M ^" represents the counterion of the corresponding organic acid, mineral or halide,

or a 5- or 6-membered optionally cationic heteroaryl radical, preferentially imidazolium, and optionally substituted with a (CrC ₄ ) alkyl radical, preferably methyl;

an acylamino radical (-NR-COR ') in which the radical R is a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group and the R' radical is a C ₁ -C ₂ alkyl radical; ; a carbamoyl radical ((R) ₂ N-CO-) in which the radicals R, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group; an alkylsulphonylamino radical (R'SO ₂ -NR-) in which the radical R represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group and the radical R 'represents an alkyl radical; C1-C4, a phenyl radical; an aminosulphonyl radical ((R) ₂ N-SO ₂ -) in which the R radicals, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group,

a carboxylic radical in acid or salified form (preferably with an alkali metal or an ammonium, substituted or unsubstituted);

a cyano group;

a nitro group;

a carboxy or glycosylcarbonyl group; a phenylcarbonyloxy group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups;

a glycosyloxy group; and

a phenyl group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups.

The aryl or heterocyclic radicals or the aryl or heterocyclic part of the radicals when they are optionally substituted can be substituted by at least one substituent carried by at least one carbon atom, chosen from:

- an alkyl radical in C ₁ -C _10, preferably -C _8, optionally substituted by one or more radicals chosen from hydroxyl, alkoxy, C ₁ -C ₂ alkyl, (poly) - hydroxyalkoxy, C ₂ -C _4, acylamino, amino substituted with two identical or different alkyl radicals, in dC ₄ , optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group or, the two radicals being able to form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocycle comprising from 7-membered, preferably 5 or 6-membered, optionally substituted saturated or unsaturated compound optionally comprising another heteroatom identical to or different from nitrogen;

a halogen atom;

a hydroxyl group;

a C ₁ -C ₂ alkoxy radical;

a C1-C10 alkoxycarbonyl radical;

a (poly) -hydroxyalkoxy (C ₂ -C ₄₎ radical;

an amino radical;

a 5- or 6-membered heterocycloalkyl radical;

a hydroxy group,

^* An amino group optionally substituted by one or two alkyl radicals optionally substituted d- -C _3, said alkyl radicals possibly forming with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocycle comprising from 5 to 7 members, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted optionally comprising at least one other heteroatom different or different from nitrogen,

^* A quaternary ammonium group -N ⁺ R'R "R '", M ^"for which R', R", R "', identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a group -C ₄ alkyl; and M ^" represents the counter-ion of the corresponding organic acid, mineral or halide,

an acylamino radical (-NR-COR ') in which the radical R is a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group and the radical R' is a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical; ₂ ; a carbamoyl radical ((R) ₂ N-CO-) in which the radicals R, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group; an alkylsulphonylamino radical (R'SO ₂ -NR-) in which the radical R represents a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group and the radical R 'represents an alkyl radical; C ₁ -C ₄ phenyl; an aminosulphonyl radical ((R) ₂ N-SO ₂ -) in which the R radicals, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group,

a cyano group;

a nitro group;

a polyhaloalkyl group, preferentially trifluoromethyl;

a carboxy or glycosylcarbonyl group;

a phenylcarbonyloxy group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups;

a glycosyloxy group; and

a phenyl group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups.

By glycosyl radical is meant a radical derived from a mono or polysaccharide.

The radicals containing one or more silicon atoms are preferably poly-dimethylsiloxane, poly-diphenylsiloxane, poly-dimethylphenylsiloxane, stearoxydimethicone radicals.

The heterocyclic radicals are, in general, radicals comprising in at least one ring one or more heteroatoms chosen from O, N and S, preferably O or N, optionally substituted with in particular one or more alkyl, alkoxy, carboxylic acid, hydroxyl or amine groups. or ketone. These cycles may contain one or more oxo groups on the carbon atoms of the heterocycle.

Among the heterocyclic radicals that can be used, mention may be made of furyl, pyranyl, pyrrolyl, imidazolyl, pyrazolyl, pyridyl and thienyl groups.

More preferably, the heterocyclic groups are fused groups such as benzofuranyl, chromenyl, xanthenyl, indolyl, isoindolyl, quinolyl, isoquinolyl, chromannyl, isochromannyl, indolinyl, isoindolinyl, coumarinyl, isocoumarinyl, these groups may be substituted, in particular by one or more OH groups. Orthodiphenols useful in the process of the invention may be natural or synthetic. Natural orthodiphenols include compounds that may be present in nature and are reproduced by (hemi) chemical synthesis.

The salts of the orthodiphenols of the invention may be salts of acids or bases. The acids can be mineral or organic. Preferably the acid is hydrochloric acid which leads to chlorides.

The bases can be mineral or organic. Especially the bases are alkali hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide which leads to sodium salts.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises as ingredient i) one or more synthetic orthodiphenol derivative (s) which does not exist in nature.

According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the method for staining keratinous fibers uses as ingredient a) one or more orthodiphenol derivative (s) natural (s).

More particularly, the orthodiphenols that can be used in the process of the invention according to i) are in particular:

flavanols such as catechin and epichatechin gallate,

flavonols such as quercetin,

anthocyanidins such as cyanidine, delphinidin, petunidine,

anthocyanins or anthocyanins such as myrtillin,

orthohydroxybenzoates, for example gallic acid salts,

flavones such as luteolin,

hydroxystilbenes, for example tetrahydroxy-3,3 ', 4,5'-stilbene, optionally oxylated (for example glucosylated),

3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine and its derivatives,

2,3-dihydroxyphenylalanine and its derivatives, 4,5-dihydroxyphenylalanine and its derivatives,

dihydroxycinnamates, such as caffeic acid and chlorogenic acid,

orthopolyhydroxycoumarines,

orthopolyhydroxyisocoumarines,

orthopolyhydroxycoumarones,

orthopolyhydroxyisocoumarones,

orthopolyhydroxychalcones,

orthopolyhydroxychromones,

orthopolyhydroxyquinones,

orthopolyhydroxyxanthones,

1,2-dihydroxybenzene and its derivatives,

1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene and its derivatives,

1,2,3-trihydroxybenzene and its derivatives,

2,4,5 trihydroxytoluene and its derivatives,

proanthocyanidins and in particular proanthocyanidins A1, A2, B1, B2, B3 and C1,

- proanthocyanins,

- tannic acid,

ellagic acid,

and the mixtures of the preceding compounds.

When the dye precursors have D and L forms, both forms can be used in the compositions according to the invention, as well as the racemates.

According to one embodiment, natural orthodiphenols are derived from extracts of animals, bacteria, fungi, algae, plants used in whole or in part. Especially concerning the plants the extracts are from plant or part of plants such as fruits including citrus fruits, vegetables, trees, shrubs. It is also possible to use mixtures of these extracts, rich in othodiphenols as defined above.

Preferably, the natural orthodiphenol (s) of the invention are derived from extracts of plants or parts of plants

Within the meaning of the invention, these extracts are assimilated as a whole as compound a).

The extracts are obtained by extraction of various parts of plants such as for example root, wood, bark, leaf, flower, fruit, seed, pod, peel.

Among the plant extracts, there may be mentioned the extracts of tea leaves, rose. Among the fruit extracts, mention may be made of apple and grape extracts (in particular grape seed), or bean extracts and / or cocoa pods.

Among the vegetable extracts, there may be mentioned potato extracts, onion peels.

Among the extracts of wood of trees, one can quote the extracts of bark of pine, extracts of logwood.

It is also possible to use mixtures of plant extracts.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the orthodiphenol derivative (s) are natural extracts rich in orthodiphenols. According to a preferred mode, the orthodiphenol derivative (s) are only natural extracts.

The natural extracts according to the invention can be in the form of powders or liquids. The extracts of the invention are preferably in the form of powders.

According to the invention, the synthetic orthodiphenol derivative (s), natural (s), and / or the natural extract (s) used as an ingredient (i) in one or more composition (s) useful in the process according to the invention preferably represents from 0.001% to 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition (s) containing the ortho-diphenol (s) or the the extracts.

As regards pure orthodiphenols, the content in the composition or compositions containing them is preferably between 0.001 and 5% by weight of each of these compositions.

With regard to the extracts, the content in the composition or compositions containing the extracts as such is preferably between 0.5 and 20% by weight of each of these compositions. (b) Chemical oxidizing agents:

The second component of the dyeing process and the composition according to the invention is the chemical or (s) oxidizing agent (s) supported (s) or not, particular (s).

Especially;

b-1) ozone;

b-2) the alkali metal or quaternary ammonium persalts are perborates, persulfates, percarbonates, peroxodiphosphates, Oxone® or potassium persulfate, particularly the oxidizing agent, is chosen from sodium perborate, persulfate from sodium, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, sodium percarbonate, potassium percarbonate;

b-3) aliphatic organic peracids -C ₆ aromatic C ₆ -C ₂ o and forms percarboxylates: RC (0) 0-OM 'with R representing a group (CrC ₆₎ alkyl, or (C ₆ -C ₂ o) aryl such as phenyl, M 'representing a hydrogen atom (peracid) an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal (percarboxylate) are chosen from performic acid, peracetic acid, perbenzoic acid derivatives, trifluoroacetic acid, peroxyphthalic acid, peroxymaleic acid, peroxypropionic acid, particularly oxidant is peracetic acid;

b-4) organic peroxides selected from dioxirane, C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl peroxides, benzoyl peroxide, peroxo (C ₁ -C ₆ ) alkyl carboxylates, bis (tri) (C ₁ -C ₆ ) peroxides alkylsilyl such as bis (trimethylsilyl) peroxide, C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl peroxydicarbonates, sodium nonanoyloxybenzene sulfonate as described in WO1995 / 000625 and US4,412,934.

b-5) the oxidizing anions chosen from nitrites, nitrates, hypochlorites, hypobromites, hypoiodites, chlorites, bromites, iodites, chlorates, bromates, iodates, periodates, more particularly the oxidant is chosen from hypochlorite or alkali metal periodate such as sodium hypochlorite or sodium periodate;

b-6) stable N-oxy radicals (NO) chosen from i) heterocycles containing a sterically hindered N-oxide group such as the radical 2,2,6,6-tetra (Cr C ₆ ) alkylpiperidino-oxy; 2,2,6,6-tetra (C ₁ -C ₆ ) alkylmorpholinooxy; ii) the salts of Frémy nitrosodisulfonates, and iii) the morpholine N-oxide; the oxidant is especially selected from the 2,2,6,6-tetramethylpiperidinyloxy radical

b-7) the hypervalent derivatives of iodine, chosen from iodotriacetate, iodosobenzene, iodobenzenetriacetate, iodoperbenzoic acid derivatives, periodinans, alkyls and benzoylhypoiodites, more preferably the oxidant is chosen from 1 iodotriacetate, iodosobenzene, iodobenzenetriacetate, iodoperbenzoic acid, Dess-Martin periodinane; the iodoaryl diallkyl of (Ci-C ₆₎ carboxylate such as iodobenzene diacetate;

b-8) the following organic compounds: N-halosuccinimides, trichloroisocyanuric acid, N-hydroxyphthalimide, linear or branched C-I-C-10 alkyl nitrites;

the optional supports of these oxidants b-1) to b-8) can be selected from silica, alumina, coal, charged or neutral polymers.

Preferentially, the chemical oxidizing agents are chosen from alkali metal perborates such as sodium perborate, alkali metal persulfates such as sodium persulfate, potassium oxone or persulfate, and carboxylic acid peracids RC ( 0) 0-OH with R representing a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group such as methyl, and an alkaline earth metal hypochlorite such as hypochlorite of calcium, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal periodate such as sodium periodate, diallkyl (Ci-C ₆ ) carboxylate iodoaryl such as iodobenzene diacetate.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the chemical oxidizing agent (s) is (are) preferably in an amount of between 0.001% and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition or compositions containing them or, more preferably, from 0.2% to 15% by weight. (c) basifying agent (s)

The basifying agent used in the dyeing process according to the invention as the third ingredient c) is an agent for increasing the pH of the composition or compositions in which it is located. The basifying agent is a Bronsted, Lowry or Lewis base. It can be mineral or organic.

Particularly the said agent is chosen from i) (bi) carbonates, ii) ammonia, iii) alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and their derivatives iv) oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, v ) inorganic or organic hydroxides, vi) alkali metal silicates such as sodium metasilicates, vii) basic amino acids such as arginine, lysine, ornithine, citruline and histidine, and viii ) the compounds of formula (II) below:

in which W is a divalent (CrC ₈ ) alkylene radical optionally substituted by at least one hydroxyl group or at least one (CrC ₄ ) alkyl radical and / or optionally interrupted by at least one heterotatome such as oxygen, sulfur or by a group - N (R _e ) -; R _a , Rb, Rc, Rd and R _e , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a radical (CrC ₄ ) alkyl or hydroxy (CrC ₄ ) alkyl, preferably W represents a propylene radical.

The inorganic or organic hydroxides, particularly the inorganic or organic hydroxides, are preferably selected from a) the hydroxides of an alkali metal, b) the hydroxides of an alkaline earth metal, such as hydroxides of sodium or of potassium, c) hydroxides of a transition metal, such as the hydroxides of metals of groups III, IV, V and VI, d) hydroxides of lanthanides or actinides, quaternary ammonium hydroxides and guanidinium hydroxide.

The hydroxide may be formed in situ such as, for example, guanidine hydroxide by reaction of calcium hydroxide and guanidine carbonate. By (bi) carbonates i) is implied:

alkali metal (Met ₂ ⁺ , CO ₃ ^{2 -} ), alkaline earth metal (Met ' ²⁺ , CO ₃ ^{2 -} ) ammonium carbonates ((R " ₄ N ⁺ ) _2! CO ₃ ^2" ) or of phosphonium ((R " ₄ P ⁺ ) ₂ , C0 ₃ ^2" with Met 'representing an alkaline earth metal and Met representing an alkali metal, and R ", which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a group ( d-C ₆ ) optionally substituted alkyl such as hydroxyethyl),

and

bicarbonates, also called hydrogencarbonates, of the following formulas:

> R ' ⁺ , HCO ₃ ^" with R' representing a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, an ammonium group R" ₄ N ⁺ - or phosphonium R " ₄ P ⁺ - where R", identical or different, represent an atom hydrogen, an optionally substituted (CrC ₆ ) alkyl group such as hydroxyethyl and when R 'represents a hydrogen atom, the hydrogencarbonate is then called dihydrogen carbonate (C0 ₂ , H ₂ 0); and

> Met ' ²⁺ (HC0 ₃ ^" ) ₂ with Met' representing an alkaline earth metal.

More particularly, the basifying agent is chosen from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal (bi) carbonates; preferentially alkali metal (bi) carbonates.

There may be mentioned carbonates or hydrogenocarbonates of Na, K, Mg, Ca and mixtures thereof, and in particular Na hydrogen carbonate. These hydrogencarbonates can come from natural water, for example spring water from the Vichy basin, from La Roche Posay, Badoit water (see patent, for example FR 2 814 943). Especially mention may be made of sodium carbonate [497-19-8] = Na ₂ CO ₃ , sodium hydrogen carbonate or sodium bicarbonate [144-55-8] = NaHCO ₃ , and sodium dihydrogen carbonate = Na (HCO ₃ ) ₂ .

According to a particularly advantageous embodiment, the alkalinizing agent (s) c) is (are) selected from alkanolamines and (bi) carbonates particularly alkaline or alkaline earth. In addition, they are preferably together during the coloring process.

The alkalinizing agent (s) as defined above preferably represent from 0.001% to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition (s) containing them. More particularly from 0.005% to 8% by weight of the composition. derivative (s) metal league (s) The method of the invention may implement, and the composition may further comprise one or more metal derivative (s) which catalyzes (s) oxidation by oxygen in the air.

In particular, these derivatives are chosen from metal salts, metal complexes, metal oxides, metal oxanions and their supported forms for which the metals are 1) Cu; 2) Au; 3) Mo; 4) Ag; 5) W; 6) V; 7) Ru; 8) Mg; 9) This; 10) Re; 1 1) Ti; 12) If; 13) Sn; 14) Zr; 15) Nb; 16) In; 17) Se; 18) A1 as defined above, particularly those derivatives which can not represent i) the Mg, Sn, AI, Cu halide ii) the Cu and Ag nitrate, and iii) the Cu sulphate; .

More particularly, the metal (s) is (are) chosen from:

(1) the following copper derivative (s):

i) copper (Cu) oxides of oxidation state I or II (Cu I or II);

ii) copper metal complexes such as Cu and I metalloporphyrin (s), phthalocyanines and copper chlorophyllins;

iii) the salt (s) of Cu I and II chosen from:

a) Cu II halides of formula CuHal (R ² ) with Hal representing a halogen atom, and R ² representing a hydroxyl group, (CrC ₆ ) alkoxy, or R ¹ -C (O) O- with R ¹ representative of a group (CrC ₆ ) alkyl, b) the alkyl (CrCi ₆ ) carboxylates of Cu II such as Cu acetate, c) the ((CrCi ₆ ) alkyl) sulphates of Cu such as ammoniacal Cu lauryl sulphate, d) Cu (bi) carbonates such as Cu carbonate,

e) alkyl (CRCI ₆₎ Cu II polycarboxylates such as citrate Cu3 Cu (C 6 H ₅ 0 ₇₎ 2, Cu succinate,

f) the alkyl (CrCi ₆ ) polycarboxylates of Cu II with the alkyl group optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as the nitrogen atom such as edetate Cu,

g) (poly) hydroxyalkyl (CrCi ₆ ) carboxlyates of Cu II such as Cu gluconate, Cu glycocollate, Cu lactate,

h) heterocycloalkylcarboxylates such as Cu pidolate, i) Cu deoxyribonucleate,

j) Cu oxalate,

k) Cu [(poly) (CrCi ₆ ) alkyl] (poly) phosphates such as Cu diphosphate,

iv) metal complexes of Cu (I) or (II) comprising ligands, particularly those with mono, di, tri or tetra functionalized ligands, such as: a) Cu (II) complexes with bisazomethine ligand of following formula (a) :

(at)

as well as these hydrates, formula (a) in which:

o E represents a divalent (CrC ₆ ) linear or branched alkylene chain optionally substituted by oxo groups, or (C ₂ -C ₆ ) linear or branched alkylene,

o J is present and represents a group as defined for E and in this case X represents a heteroatom selected from N and P;

o is absent and X represents a heteroatom such as O, S, N (R '), or P (R') with R 'representing a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (CC ₆ ) alkyl group,

o A and B, identical or different, are optionally substituted aryl groups, or optionally substituted heteroaryl; and

o R 'is as defined for N (R') and P (R ');

b) Cu (II) complexes with azomethine ligand, such as those of formula (β) below:

as well as these hydrates, formula (β) in which: X, J, A, B, R 'and J are as defined previously in formula (a);

c) derivatives of azo direct dyes with copper complex such as those of formula (γ) below:

with X, J, A and B as defined previously in formula (a), d) the Cu (ll) complexes derived from dyes are particularly the Cu complexes of: 2,2'-dihydroxyazo;2,2'-hydroxyaminoazo;2,2'-dihydroxyazomethine,2,2'-dihydroxycarboxyazo;2,2'-dihydroxycarboxyazomethine; the tridendate ligands derived formazans;

2) gold (Au),

3) molybdenum (Mo),

4) the oxides of silver (Ag) I and II, the salts of Ag I and II selected from silver halides, the sulfate of Ag, [R ¹ -C (O) O] _n Ag with n = 1 or 2, R ¹ representing a group

(CrC ₆ ) alkyl such as Ag acetate, Ag lactate, silver complexes such as the metalloporphyrins of Ag I, the phthalocyanines of Ag I or the chlorophyllines Ag I,

5) tungsten (W),

6) vanadium (V),

7) Ruthenium (Ru),

8) magnesium oxide (Mg) II, Mg II salts chosen from Mg sulphate, Mg II metalloporphyrins, Mg II phthalocyanines, Mg II chlorophyllins, Mg II chlorophylls,

9) cerium (Ce),

10) rhenium (Re),

11) titanium (Ti),

12) silicon (Si),

13) tin oxides (Sn),

14) zirconium (Zr),

15) niobium (Nb),

16) indium (In),

17) selenium (Se), and

18) aluminum oxides (Al). By "metal salt" is meant a compound different from the alloys i.e. the salt consists of a metal combined with certain non-metallic elements.

The formation of metal salts results from an oxidative attack. The metal is oxidized to a cationic species and then combines with an anionic species to give a salt. This formation takes place by applying the principles and oxidation-reduction reaction (chemical reaction during which an electrons transfer takes place in which the atom that captures the electrons is called "oxidant", the one that yields them, "reducer"); or by chemical exchange reactions between a salt and another salt or an acid, in the presence or absence of oxygen in the air. These reactions are known to those skilled in the art. Preferably, the salts according to the invention are soluble in water in a proportion of at least 0.0001 g / l. The metal salts according to the invention can be introduced in solid form in the compositions or come from a natural, mineral or thermal water, rich in these ions or even seawater (dead sea in particular). They can also come from mineral compounds such as the earth, the plant extract containing them (see, for example, patent document FR 2 814 943).

By "metal complex" or "coordination compounds" are meant systems in which the metal ion, the central atom, is chemically bonded to one or more electron donors (ligands). A ligand comprising different coordinating groups (capable of coordination with a metal) gives metal compounds corresponding to coordination sphere principles with a number of specific electrons (internal complexes or chelates) - see Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, "Metal complex dyes 2005, p. 1 - 42 - More particularly by metal complex means:

i) metal dyes, which are complex dyes derived from azo, azomethine, hydrazono, formazan dyes

(free, bidendates, tridendates, quadridendates) such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, "Metal complex dyes", 2005, p. 1-42, which preferably include Cu and Mg;

(ii) compounds of the type "aza [18] annulenes" or also known as "(metallo) porphyrins" and "phthalocyanines" which contain 4 and 8 nitrogen atoms respectively included in the perimeter of the macrocycle - see "Color Chemistry" , H. Zollinger, 3rd Ed., Wiley-VCH, 2003, chap.5. Aza [18] annulenes, p. 123-160. The metal ion is then at the center of said macrocycle linked by coordination with 2 hydrogen atoms to the nitrogen atoms of pyrroles, the metal may also be stabilized by one or more ligands bidendate or not; the metal ion being preferentially Mg ²⁺ or Cu ²⁺ ; especially the metal complex is:

a "metalloporphyrin" consisting of a skeleton with 4 pyrrole groups which are connected to their α, α 'position by 4 methine groups and contain 16 sp ² hybridized atoms, complexing a metal such as Cu,

Mg.ou

a "chlorine" (corresponding to a porphyrin whose external C = C double bond of a pyrrole group has been reduced) complexed with a metal preferentially Mg ²⁺ such as chlorophylline chromophore: chlorophylline;

iii) "phthalocyanine" tetraazopyryrin tetraaza analogs, such as Monastral Fast Blue B (CI Pigment Blue 15); Monastral Fast Blue G (CI. Pigment Blue 16) (see "Color Chemistry," H. Zollinger, 3rd Ed., Wiley-VCH, 2003, chap.5 Aza [18] annulenes, 140); Sirius light Turquoise Blue G sulfonyl derivatives (CI Direct Blue 86, Copper phthalocyanine tetrasulfonic acid) and "phthalocyanines" as described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, "Phthalocyanines", 2005, p. 1 -34 which include Cu and

Yes.

By "metal oxide (s)" is meant compounds of generic formula A _x O _y with A representing a metal element and 1 <x≤4 and 1≤y <12

By "metal oxanion (s)" is meant compounds of general formula Z _z A _x O _y with A representing a metallic element, Z representing an alkali metal such as Li, Na, K or a hydrogen atom or an ammonium ion, and 1 <z <6, 1 <x <4 and 1 <y <12 "Supported form (s)" means the forms in which the metal derivative b) is impregnated on a material called " support ". The optional supports of these metal derivatives can be chosen from carbon, silica, alumina, optionally charged polymers comprising counter-anions or counter-cations (counter-cation or counter-anion of the metal species). By way of example, the polymers may be polyethylene glycol (PEG) and polystyrene.

1) According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the metal derivative (s) is (are) chosen from:

i) copper (Cu) oxides of degree of oxidation I or II (Cu I or II),

ii) metal complexes of copper such as metalloporphyrins of Cu I and II, phthalocyanines as described in US Pat. No. 3,931,249 and copper chlorophyllins; iii) Cu I and II salts chosen from:

a) Cu II halides of formula CuHal (R ² ) with Hal representing a halogen atom, and R ² representing a hydroxyl group, (CrC ₆ ) alkoxy, or R ¹ -C (O) O- with R ¹ as defined previously,

b) Cu (II) alkyl (CrCl ₆ ) carboxyates, such as Cu acetate,

c) Cu ((CrCi ₆ ) alkyl) sulfates such as ammoniacal Cu lauryl sulphate, d) Cu (bi) carbonates such as Cu carbonate,

e) Cu II alkyl (CrCi ₆ ) polycarboxylates, such as Cu 2 O 2 C ₆ Ce ₄ O ₄ citrate, Cu succinate,

f) the alkyl (CrCi ₆ ) polycarboxylates of Cu II with the alkyl group optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as the nitrogen atom such as edetate; Cu,

g) (poly) hydroxyalkyl (CrCi ₆ ) carboxyates of Cu II such as Cu gluconate, Cu glycocollate, Cu lactate,

h) heterocycloalkylcarboxylate such as Cu pidolate,

i) Cu deoxyribonucleate,

j) Cu oxalate,

k) [(poly) (CrCi ₆ ) alkyl] (poly) phosphates of Cu such as Cu-diphosphate,. iv) metal complexes of Cu (I) or (II) comprising ligands such as the complex metal dyes described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia, 2005 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co., KgA, Weinheim, 10.1002 / 14356007. a16_299, pp. 1-42, particularly those with mono, di, tri or tetra functionalized ligands such as:

a) complexes of Cu (II) with bisazomethine ligand such as those of formula (a) below:

( ^a ) as well as these hydrates,

formula (a) in which:

o E represents a divalent (CrC ₆ ) alkylene chain linear or branched optionally substituted by oxo groups, or (C ₂ -C ₆ ) linear or branched alkylene such as ethylene -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -, arylene such as ortho-phenylene, heteroarylene

o Let J be present and represent a group as defined for E and in this case X represents a heteroatom selected from N and P;

o Let J be absent and X represent a heteroatom such as O, S, N (R '), or P (R') with R 'representing a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl (CC ₆ ) group, preferentially X = O, o A and B, identical or different, particularly identical, are optionally substituted aryl groups, or optionally substituted heteroaryl; preferably A and B are aryls such as phenyl and R 'is as defined for N (R') and P (R '), preferential R' is a hydrogen atom;

more particularly the complex of Cu is such that X = O, E = ethylene, J is absent, R '= H, A and B = phenyl substituted in para of the oxygen atom by an alkali metal sulfate group such that sodium or such that the Brilliant Red [76683-16-4];

as well as these hydrates,

formula (β) in which: X, J, A, B, R 'and J are as defined previously in formula (a), particularly R' represents a hydrogen atom, B represents a phenyl, X represents an atom oxygen, A represents phenyl optionally substituted para oxygen with phenyl or naphthyl such as Pigment Yellow 1 17 [21405-81 -2] and Pigment Yellow 129 [68859-61 -0];

(Ύ) with X, J, A and B as defined previously in formula (a),

particularly the compounds of formula (γ) are chosen from Acid Dyes such as Sirius Light Blue 3 RL [13217-74-8], CI. Direct Blue 93, Benzo Fast Red CGL, CI. Direct Red 180, and those [92341 -30-5], [1 19103-25-2], [1 16932-38-8], [1 13989-79-0];

derivatives of Bisazo direct direct dyes with a copper complex such as Direct Blue 80 [12222-003];

derivatives of Formazans or formazan dyes dyes as described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia, 2005 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co., KgA, Weinheim, 10.1002 / 14356007.a16-299, p. 27, point 6 and 6.1.2: Bidendates such as [53708-91 -1], Tridendates or Quadridendates such as [36090-18-3] and [109973-79]; d) the Cu (ll) complexes derived from dyes are particularly the Cu complexes of: 2,2'-dihydroxyazo;2,2'-hydroxyaminoazo;2,2'-dihydroxyazomethine,2,2'-dihydroxycarboxyazo;2,2'-dihydroxycarboxyazomethine, tridendate ligands derived from formazanes More particularly, the copper metal derivative is chosen from copper gluconate, cupric chlorobylline a or b, and CuHal (OH) with Hal representing a halogen atom such as CuCl (OH).

fc3 a

2) According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the metal derivative (s) is (are) gold (Au). More particularly

i) gold oxides I and III such as Au ₂ O ₃ ,

ii) Au I and III hydroxides such as Au (OH) ₃ , AuOH, Au (O) OH,

iii) gold salts I particularly of formula AuHal with Hal representing a halogen atom (F, Cl, Br, I) such as AuCI or Aul,,

iv) gold salts III particularly chosen from the following formulas:

• At (Hal) ₃ with Hal, identical or different, as defined previously, such as AuCI ₃ , and AuBr ₃ ,

ZAu (Hal) ₄ , hydrated or not, with Z representing a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal such as Li, Na, K or an NH ₄ ⁺ ammonium, and Hal, identical or different, as defined previously, as the KAuCI ₄ or HAuCI ₄ ,

• At (R) ₃ with R, identical or different, representing:

a (C ₁ -C ₆ ) alkylcarbonyloxy group, in which the alkyl group is linear or branched, such as methyl or tert-butyl such as Au (OAc) ₃ ,

or one or two of the groups R representing a ligand L carrying at least one electron-donor group such as amino, phosphino, hydroxy, thiol, or the ligand is a "persistent" carbene particularly of the "Arduengo" type (Imidazol-2-ylidenes ); preferentially, the ligand is a phosphine such as triphenyl phosphine for example (Ph ₃ P) AuOC (O) 'Bu,

v) Au metal complexes such as Au and III metalloporphyrins, gold phthalocyanines I and III or chlorophyllins a or b of gold I and III;

Preferably, the metal derivative (s) is (are) chosen from gold oxides I and III such as Au ₂ O ₃ , gold hydroxides and gold salts III such as that ZAu (Hal) ₄ , and Au (R) ₃ . More preferentially, the metal derivative is chosen from oxides and hydroxides such as that In ₂ 0 _3, In (OH) _3, AuOH.

3) According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the metal derivative (s) is (are) silver (Ag). More particularly:

i) silver oxides I and II such as Ag ₂ O and AgO,

ii) Ag I salts particularly chosen from the following formulas:

AgHal with Hal representing a halogen atom (F, Cl, Br, I) such as AgCl, AgBr, AgI;

• Ag _x R ³ _z , with R ³ identical or different representing:

A sulphate group such as Ag ₂ S0 ₄

^■ a (CrC ₆₎ alkylcarbonyloxo wherein the alkyl group is linear or branched and may optionally be substituted by a hydroxyl group, such as Ag acetate, propionate Ag, Ag lactate

^■ x and z as previously defined

- with the exception of silver nitrate Ag (N0 ₃ ):

iii) metalloporphyrins of Ag I;

iv) Ag I phthalocyanines as described in US 3,931,249; and

v) chlorophyllines a or b of Ag I. 4) According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the metal derivative (s) is molybdenum (Mo).

Especially metal derivatives of oxidation number (II) to (VI) and are as described in Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology Copyright © 2001 John Wiley & Sons, Inc. Last updated: 17 Sep 2009, "Molybdenium compounds", Edward I. Stieffel, pp. 871-895 or Ullmann's Encyclopedia; WILEY-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA © 2000-2005, "Molybdenum and Molybdenum Compounds".

More particularly:

a) especially Mo oxides such as:

molybdenum oxide (VI), of formula MoO ₃ ;

the oxides of Mo (IV) with ligand--diketones MoO ₂ L ₂ with L ligand, which are identical or different, preferably identical, represent a β-diketone of the type RC (X) -C (R ') -C (X) R "with R and R", which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched (C ₁ -C ₆ ) alkyl group, and R 'represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (C ₁ -C ₆ ) alkyl group, X represents an atom of oxygen, sulfur or a group N (R) with R representing a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (CrC ₆ ) alkyl group, more particularly the Mo dioxide is of formula MoO ₂ [CH ₃ C ( 0) CHC (0) CH ₃ ] ₂ [17524-05-9];

Mo (VI) oxide complexes from MoO ₃ and hydroxy C ₂ -C ₁₀ carboxylic acid ligand, in particular citric acid, maleic acid, as described in the article CB Knobler et al., J. Chem. Soc. Dalton Trans. 1983, 1299) or polyhydric C ₂ -C ₀ comprising 2 to 5 hydroxy groups including ethylene glycol, glycerol, as described in the article FA Schroder, J. Scherle, Z. Naturforsch. B: Anorg. Chem. Org. Chem. 28B (1973) 46; see also CB Knobler, Penfold BR, Wilkins GT, J. Chem. Soc. Dalton Trans. 1980, 248)

monohydrate, MoO ₃ · H ₂ O [39082-25-2], dihydrate, MoO ₃ · 2H ₂ O [25942-

34-1], molybdic acid (H ₂ MoO ₄ · H ₂ O);

molybdenum dioxide;

dihalogénodioxomolybdenum (Hal) ₂ Mo0 ₂ with identical or different Hal is as defined above, especially Hal are identical and represent a chlorine atom;

blue molybdenum or "molybdenum blues" [66771-43-5], a mixture of Mo oxide / hydroxides of Mo (VI) and Mo (V) as described in the article VK Rudenko, Koord. Khim. (1979) 307; (Sov, J. Coord Chem (Engl Transi) 5 (1979) 231, especially Mo ⁶⁺ ₃ Mo ⁵⁺ ₃ Oi ₈ H, and condensation derivatives of with phosphate ions;

mixtures of Mo oxides with different valencies Mo (VI) -Mo (V) (bronzes of Mo oxide) as described in the article M. Greenblat, Chem. Rev. 88 (1988) 31; more particularly the binary bronzes and the tertiary bronzes, Ao. ₃₃ Mo0 ₃ (A = Li, K, Rb, Cs, Tl); Ao. ₃ MoO ₃ (A = K, Rb, Tl); Ao.gMoeOu (A = Li, Na, K, Tl), and the rare earth bronzes La ₂ Mo ₂ 0 ₇ ;

b) oxanions of Mo selected from molybdates Z ₂ MoO ₄ with Z, identical or different, as defined above such as, sodium molybdate Na ₂ MoO ₄ , ammonium molybdate (NH ₄ ) ₂ MoO ₄ ;

c) polyoxometalates such as: [XY _u Moi _2-u 0 ₄ o] ^{(3 + u) "} (Z) _{(3 + U} ) with X and Y chosen from P, Si, V; 0 <u <6, and Z is as defined above where Z represents a hydrogen atom, particularly the polyoxometalate is of formula

d) the binary Mo halides of oxidation states (II) to (VI), hexacoordinated by 6 halogens of Mo (V), (IV) and (III), the Mo atoms being linked by halogen bonds such that the Mo (II) halide containing [Mo ₆ Hal ₈ ] ⁴⁺ clusters bound to halogen atoms to give Mo ₆ Hali ₂ with Hal, identical or different, as defined above and more particularly Hal represents Cl;

e) the ₄ Mo molarbenzene (Hal) tetrahalides with Hal ', which are identical or different, as defined previously, such as MoCl ₄ ;

f) sulfur derivatives of Mo selected from:

Molybdenum disulphides [1317-33-5], molybdenum (IV) sulphides, MoS ₂ molybdates of formula (Z) ₂ MoS ₄ , with Z, which are identical or different, as defined above, particularly Z represent an ammonium such as than tetrathiomolybdate (NH ₄ ) ₂ [MoS ₄ ] [15060-55-6];

- the sesquisulphide of Mo [12033-33-9]; dimolybdenum trisulfides (III),

Mo ₂ S ₃ ;

salts of tetrasulfides Z MoS ₂₄ ^" with Z as defined above, preferably represents ammonium;

g) Oxomolybdenum derivatives (VI) chosen from:

- Mo (0) Hal ₄ with Hal, identical or different, are as defined above, particularly Hal represents the F atom and Cl;

, Mo (0) ₂ Hal ₂ with Hal, identical or different, are as defined above, particularly Hal represents the atom of F, Cl and Br; h) the trihalogenooxomolybdenum derivatives (V) and these adducts with organic ligands L as defined above, L preferably represents: a bidendate group RC (X) -CR'R "-C (X) -R"'with R and R "", identical or different, representing a group (CrC ₆ ) alkyl, linear or branched and R 'and R ", identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group (CC ₆ ) alkyl, linear or branched, preferably R and R "represent a hydrogen atom, X represents an oxygen atom, sulfur, or a group N (R) with R representing a hydrogen atom or linear or branched (C ₁ -C ₆ ) alkyl group, such as that acetylacetone;

a 2,2-bipyridyl bidendate group;

i) the oxomolybdenum derivative of formula Mo (O) Hal ₃ ^' 2 L with L and Hal as defined previously, preferably L represents a R "-O-R' with R and R 'as defined previously, such as diethyl ether and a heteroaryl group such as pyridine;

j) the molybdates, isopolymolybdates, and heteropolymolybdates containing a tetrahedral anion [MoO ₄ ] ^{2 ~} such as ammonium heptamolybdate (isopolymolybdate), (NR ' ₄ ) ₆ Mo ₇ 02 ₄ hydrated, with R' identical or different are such that defined above, especially R 'is a hydrogen atom; divalent cation molybdates, in particular those soluble in water, such as Mg ²⁺ molybdates and trivalent cation molybdates, in particular of formulas A ₂ (MoO ₄ ) 3 or A ₂ Mo ₃ O 12, with A representing an atom chosen from Al, Cr, Bi and Lanthanide;

the [MoO ₆ ] octahedron heteropolymolybdates incorporating other heteroatoms than the oxygen atom chosen in particular from S, N and P; More specifically, the heteromolybdates have the formula [X ⁺ _n Moi ₂ 0 ₄ o] ^{(8 ~ n ) ~} , with tetracoordinated heteroatoms (X) such as [12026-57-2], Η ₃ [ΡΜθΐ2θ ₄ ο] · 28H ₂ 0,

Mo complexes with organosulfur ligands such as phosphorodithioates or dithiophosphates and dithiocarbamates, [Mo ₂ O ₃ L ₄ ] and [M02O ₂ S ₂ L ₂ ] with L as defined previously, particularly L represents (RO) ₂ PS ^~ 2, R ₂ NCS ^~ with R, identical or different, are as defined above;

molybdenum hexacarbonyl [13939-06-5], Mo (CO) ₆ ;

organic pigments derived from alkali metal and alkaline earth molybdates as derived from sodium molybdate such as derivatives of i) Diarylmethane (Auramine CI 655), ii) Triarylmethane (Malachite Green CI 657, Brilliant Green CI 662; Rhodulin Blue 6G CI 658, Acronol Brilliant Blue CI 664, Methyl Violet B CI 680, Victoria Pure Blue BO CI Pr198); iii) Xanthene (Rhodamine B CI 749, Rhodamine 6G); and

the molybdates of Ca and Sr and

porphyrins of Mo as described in the article by T. Ma, K. Inoue, E. Abe, Yu J., X. Wang, B. Zhang, J Electroanal. Chem. 537 (2002) 31, and Mo phthalocyanines as described in US 3,931,249.

Preferably, the metal derivative is chosen from compounds of formula Z ₂ MoO ₄ such as Na ₂ MoO ₄ ,

5) According to a particular variant of the invention, the metal derivative (s) is (are) tungsten (W). More particularly i) tungsten oxides VI, ii) tungsten oxanions preferentially alkali metal tungstates Z ₂ WO ₄ , hydrated or not, with Z, identical or different, as defined above, iii) polyoxometalates such as [ XY _u W ₁₂ - _u 0 ₄ o] ^{(4 + u) ";} (Z) _{(4 + U)} with X and Y selected from P, Si, V; 0 <u <6, particularly the polyoxometalate is of the formula H ₄ SiW ₁₂ 0 ₄ o.

Preferably, the metal derivative is chosen alkali metal tungstates such as sodium tungstate Na ₂ WO ₄ . 6) According to a particular variant of the invention, the metal derivative (s) is (are) vanadium (V). More particularly i) vanadium oxides such as V ₂ 0 ₅ , ii) vanadium oxanions selected from vanadates and metavanadates such as vanadium oxide VO (acac) ₂ , VOSO ₄ , ammonium vanadate acethylacetonate and iii) polyoxometalates such as [XV _u M ₁₂ -u0 ₄ o] ^{q "} ; (Z) q with M = W, Mo; X = P, Si; 0 <u <6 and q = 3 + x if M = Mo or q = 4 + x if M = W and Z is as defined above, particularly the polyoxometalate is of the formula H ₅ PV2Moio0 ₄ o and iv) vanadium complexes such as those described in US 3,931, 249 ..

Preferably, the metal derivative is chosen from those of formula [XV _u Moi2-u0 ₄ o] ^{(3 + u)} ; (Z) _{(3 + u)} as defined above and particularly H ₅ PV ₂ Moio0 ₄ o.

7) According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the metal derivative (s) is (are) ruthenium (Ru). More particularly i) ruthenium oxides, ii) ruthenium oxanions such as alkali metal perruthenates, and iii) ruthenium complexes such as (Hal) ₂ RuL ₄ with Hal identical or different, as previously defined and L , identical or different, are ligands as defined above.

Preferably, the metal derivative is chosen from RuCl ₂ (PPh ₃ ) ₄ , potassium perruthenate.

8) According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the metal derivative (s) is (are) magnesium (Mg) particularly i) magnesium oxide II, ii) magnesium salts II such as magnesium sulphate II, iii) magnesium metalloporphyrins II, iv) magnesium II phthalocyanines, v) magnesium chlorophyllins II, vi) magnesium chlorophylls II, complex metal or complex metal dyes such as as described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia, 2005 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co., KgA, Weinheim, 10.1002 / 14356007. a16_299, pp. 1-42) in particular those derived from formazanes as described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia, 2005 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co., KgA, Weinheim, 10.1002 / 14356007.a16_299, p. 27, point 6.1 .2.

Preferably, the metal derivative is chosen from chlorophyllin a or b magnesium and chlorophyll a or b magnesium:

Chlorophyll a chlorophyll b

9) According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the metal derivative (s) is (are) cerium (Ce). More particularly cerium IV oxides, cerium III and IV salts.

Preferably, the metal derivative is selected from cerium ammonium nitrate, cerium ammonium sulfate and cerium nitrate and cerium oxides and their salts, their hydrates and their supported forms. By way of example of oxides of Ce, mention may be made of Ce oxides such as those described in Section 4.2 and of Ullmann's encyclopedia "Cerium Mischmetal, Cerium Alloys, and Cerium Compounds", 2005 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim, 10.1002 / 14356007. a06 139, pp. 12. More particularly, the cerium oxide (s) is (are) chosen from cerium (IV) hydrate hydrate [63394-44-5], [67285-52-3], Cerium (IV) oxide [1306-38-3], CeO ₂ . Preferably, the metal oxide (s) is (are) Cerium (IV) CeO ₂ oxide. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the metal derivative (s) is (are) Rhenium (Re). More particularly, R'Re0 ₃ with R 'representing a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (CrC ₆ ) alkyl group such as CH ₃ ReO ₃ or Re complexes such as the phthalocyanines described for example in US Pat. No. 3,931 249.

11) According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the metal derivative (s) is (are) titanium (Ti). More particularly titanium IV salts such as Ti (SO ₄ ) ₂ , Ti complexes such as phthalocyanines described for example in US Pat. No. 3,931,249 or oxides and hydroxides of Ti are such as those described in Ullmann's encyclopedia "Titanium , Titanium Alloys, and Titanium Compounds ", 2005 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim, 10.1002 / 14356007.a27 095, pp. 1 -33.

In particular, the titanium oxide (s) is (are) chosen from among the hydroxide and hydroxide of Titanium (III) Ti (OH) ₃ and TiO ₃ , the trioxide of dititanium Ti ₂ O ₃ , alkaline earth metal titanium trioxides, alkaline earth metal titanium pentoxides, titanates of general formula M "TiO ₄ in which M" represents a Mg, Zn, Mn or Co metal, peroxytitanic acid and H ₄ TiO ₄ peroxytitanates ₅ , titanium dioxide (II) TiO ₂ , titanium disulfide TiS ₂ ,

Oxides can come from minerals such as anatase and rutile that contain TiO ₂ ; perovskite which contains CaTiO ₃ , sphene or titanite calcium trioxide which contains CaTi (SiO ₄ ) 0.

Preferably, the metal derivative (s) is (are) TiO ₂ .

According to a particular variant of the invention, the metal derivative (s) is (are) the silicon oxides as well as their salts, their hydrates and their supported forms. Preferably the metal oxide (s) is (are), silicon oxide (IV) Si0 ₂ .

13) According to a particular variant of the invention, the metal derivative (s) is (are) oxides tin oxide and their salts, their hydrates and their supported forms. By way of example, mention may be made of tin oxides such as those described in point 10 and 11 of Ullmann's encyclopedia "Tin, Tin Alloys, and Tin Compounds", 2005 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheiml 0.1002 / 14356007.a27 049, pp. 27-29.

Especially hydrated tin (II) oxide such as SnO · 2H ₂ O and tin oxide (II), tin oxide (IV) hydrated SnO ₂ · nH ₂ O and oxide of tin (IV) SnO ₂ , the alkali metal salts such as sodium and potassium of tin hydroxide of formula M ₂ [Sn (OH) ₆ ] with M representing an alkali metal, the hydroxides of tin of formula R ₃ SnOH, R ₂ SnOH ₂ , or RSnOH ₃ . with, R which represents a hydrocarbon group such as linear or branched (CrC ₆ ) alkyl, or (CrC ₆ ) alkoxy, linear or branched, (di) (CrC ₆ ) alkylamino;

Preferably, the metal derivative (s) is (are) tin oxide (IV) SnO ₂

14) According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the metal derivative (s) is (are) zirconium (Zr). Especially Zr complexes such as phthalocyanines described for example in US Pat. No. 3,931,249 and titanium oxides as well as their salts, their hydrates and their supported forms. By way of example of oxides of Zr, mention may be made of the oxides and hydroxides of Zr are those described in points 2.2, 2.3 and 2.5 and of Ullmann's encyclopedia "Zirconium and Zirconium Compounds", 2005 Wiley- VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim, 10.1002 / 14356007.a28 543, pp. 15-18. More particularly, Zirconium oxide [7374-23-4], ZrO ₂ , zirconium oxide hydrate [Zr ₄ (OH) ₈ · 16H ₂ O] ₈ , zirconium hydroxide dihalide, such as Zirconium hydroxide dichloride [22196-48-1], as well as compounds of formula Zr (OH) ₂ Hal ₂ · 7H ₂ 0, with Hal representing a halogen atom such as chlorine, zirconium oxyhalide such as zirconium oxychloride, zirconium halide oxides such as zirconium oxide dichloride, ZrOCl ₂ · 8H ₂ O, [Zr ₄ (OH) ₈ · 16H ₂ 0] Cl ₈ · 12H ₂ 0 and the zirconium monohalide such as zirconium hydroxide monochloride [Zr ₄ (OH) ₁₂ · 16H ₂ 0] Cl ₄

Preferably, the metal derivatives are zirconium (II) oxide Zr0 ₂ .

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the metal derivative (s) is (are) niobium oxides as well as their salts, their hydrates and their supported forms. By way of example, mention may be made of the oxides and hydroxides of Nb as those described in points 5.1 and 5.2 and of Ullmann's encyclopedia "Niobium and Niobium Compounds", 2005 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim, 10.1002 /14356007.a17 251, pp. 5-6.

In particular, the niobium oxide (s) is (are) chosen from niobium pentoxide Nb ₂ O ₅ [7373-96-8], alkali metal niobium trioxide such as niobium trioxide from lithium LiNbO ₃ [12031 -63-9] or KNb0 ₃ [12030-85-2] and Niobium oxyhalides such as chlorine oxychloride [73597-20-7], NbOCI ₃ .

Preferably, the metal oxide (s) is (are) niobium pentoxide.

Nb ₂ 0 ₅ . According to a particular variant of the invention, the metal derivative is chosen from indium oxides as well as their salts, their hydrates and their supported forms. By way of example, mention may be made of indium oxides such as those described in point 7 of Ullmann's encyclopedia "Indium and Indium Compounds", 2005 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim10.1002 / 14356007.a14 157, pp. 7.

In particular, the indium (III) oxide of the formula I n ₂ 0 ₃ , indium (II) oxide [12136]

26-4] of formula InO, and indium oxide (I) [12030-22-7] of formula I n ₂ 0, indium hydroxide [56108-30-6], of formula I n (OH ) ₃ , preferably indium (III) oxide 1n ₂ 0 ₃ .

17) According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the metal derivative (s) is (are) selenium (Se). More particularly Se0 ₂ . 18) According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the metal derivative (s) is (are) chosen from aluminum oxide and their salts, their hydrates and their supported forms. By way of example, mention may be made of aluminum oxides and hydroxides such as those described in Ullmann's encyclopedia "Aluminum oxide", 2005 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co.KGAA, Weinheim, 10.1002 / 14356007.a06 139, pp. 1 -40.

In particular, the aluminum hydroxide (s) and oxide (s) is (are) chosen from aluminum trihydroxide (Al) (OH) ₃ , aluminum oxide hydroxide AlO (OH), aluminum oxide and aluminum oxide. Al ₂ 0 ₃ dialuminium trioxide hydrated or unhydrated, alkali metal aluminates such as sodium aluminate NaAlO ₂ [1302-42-7]

Preferably, the metal oxide (s) is (are) the oxide of Al ₂ O ₃ dialuminium trioxide.

A preferred embodiment of the invention relates to metal derivatives or derivatives which are in a single metal species selected from 1) and 18) as defined above.

More particularly, the metal derivative (s) are chosen from compounds of formula ZAu (Hal) ₄ ; Au (R) ₃ Au ₂ 0 ₃ ; Z ₂ MoO ₄ ; Z ₂ W0 ₄ ; [XY _x Moi _2-x O ₄₀ ] ^{(3 + x) -} (Z) _{(3 + x)} ; TiO ₂ ;

Si0 ₂ ; Sn0 ₂ ; Zr0 ₂ or ln ₂ 0 ₃ .

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the metal derivative (s) b) is (are) gold (Au). More particularly, the metal derivative (s) b) is (are) gold (Au) with the exception of gold salts.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the metal derivative (s) used represent from 0.0001% to 10% by weight approximately of the total weight of the composition (s) containing this or these metal salts and even more preferentially of

From 0.0001% to about 0.1% by weight. photoirradiations by electromagnetic waves of wavelength included in the ultraviolet (UV) up to the infrared (IR);

The method according to the invention may comprise a photoirradiation step with one or more electromagnetic waves. By "photoirradiation" is meant any exposure of the composition or part of the composition to a light wave during the hair dyeing process. The keratin fibers may also be irradiated once the fibers treated with ingredients a) to c) as defined above. The light spectrum can include the wavelengths included in the region of the UV (10-400nm), the visible (400-745nm), the infrared (745nm to Ι ΟΟμηι). According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the dyeing process takes place in the natural light of the sun or of the day.

According to another method for dyeing keratinous fibers, the source of the photoirradiation is artificial. For the UV-emitting lamps, those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia "Ultraviolet and Visible Spectroscopy" 2008 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co KGaA, Weinheim, 10.1002 / 14356007.b05 383.pub2, point 3.2. For lamps in general, mention may be made of those mentioned in Ullmann's Encyclopedia "Lamps" 2005 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co KGaA, Weinheim 10.1002 / 14356007. a15 1 15 and Ullmann's Encyclopedia "Photochemistry" 2005 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim 10.1002 / 14356007.a19 573, point 3.2 "light sources".

The lamps used in the process of the invention are in particular incandescent, halogen, fluorescent, mercury, low pressure lamps, low pressure lamps, for example sodium or neon lamps, high pressure lamps, for example mercury, halogen lamps, xenon flash lamps, fluorescent excimer lamps such as Xenon, Light Emitting Diodes or LEDs from 50 to 1000mW, lamps emitting black light or Wood's light, and lasers

Preferably, the artificial sources come from mercury, halogen and tungsten lamps, white neon tube, UV lamp emitting at 254 nm, or at 365 nm water:

According to one embodiment of the invention, water is preferably included in the process of the invention. It may come from the wetting of the keratinous fibers and / or of the composition or compositions comprising the compounds a) to c) as defined above or from one or more other compositions. Preferably the water comes from at least one composition comprising at least one compound selected from a) to c) as defined above. cosmetic compositions:

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention are cosmetically acceptable i.e. they comprise a coloring support which generally contains water or a mixture of water and one or more organic solvents or a mixture of organic solvents.

By organic solvent is meant an organic substance capable of dissolving or disperse another substance without chemically modifying it.

Organic solvents:

As an organic solvent, mention may be made, for example, of lower C ₄ alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, hexylene glycol, as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol.

The organic solvents are present in proportions preferably of between 1 and 60% by weight approximately relative to the total weight of the dye composition, and even more preferably between 5 and 30% by weight approximately.

The additives:

The composition or compositions of the dyeing method according to the invention may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in hair dyeing compositions, such as anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants or mixtures thereof. anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof, inorganic or organic thickeners, and in particular anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymeric associative thickeners, antioxidants, penetration agents, sequestering agents, perfumes, buffers, dispersing agents, conditioning agents such as, for example, volatile or non-volatile silicones, modified or unmodified, film-forming agents, ceramides, preserving agents, opacifying agents.

Said adjuvants are preferably chosen from surfactants such as anionic, nonionic surfactants or mixtures thereof and inorganic or organic thickeners.

The adjuvants above are generally present in an amount for each of them between 0.01 and 40% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably between 0.1 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition or to the composition (s) useful in the coloring process according to the invention are not not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition or additions envisaged. Additional dyes:

The method implementing ingredients a) to c) as defined previously water; or the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprising the ingredients a) to c) as defined previously, water; may further implement or include one or more additional direct dyes.

These direct dyes are, for example, chosen from those conventionally used in direct dyeing, and among which may be mentioned all the aromatic and / or nonaromatic dyes of current use such as neutral, benzene neutral, acidic or cationic direct dyes, direct dyes neutral azo, acidic or cationic, natural direct dyes different from orthodiphenols, quinone direct dyes and in particular neutral, acidic or cationic anthraquinone dyes, direct dyes azine, triarylmethane, indoamine, methines, styrils, porphyrins, metalloporphyrins, phthalocyanines, methine cyanines, and fluorescent dyes. All these additional dyes are different from orthodiphenol derivatives according to the invention and "metal-complex dyes" or porphyrins, metalloporphyrins, phthalocyanines, belonging to a) according to the invention.

Among the natural direct dyes that may be mentioned are lawsone, juglone, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine, orceins. It is also possible to use the extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes, and in particular poultices or extracts made from henna.

The additional direct dye (s) used in the composition (s) preferably represent from 0.001% to 10% by weight approximately of the total weight of the composition (s) containing them and even more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight approximately.

The method implementing the ingredients a) to c) as defined above, and the water or the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprising the ingredients a) to c) as defined above and water can also put implement or comprise one or more oxidation bases and / or one or more couplers conventionally used for dyeing keratinous fibers.

Among the oxidation bases that may be mentioned are para-phenylenediamines, bisphenylalkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, bis-para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and their addition salts.

Among these couplers, there may be mentioned meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalenic couplers, heterocyclic couplers and their addition salts.

The oxidation base (s) present in the composition (s) are in general each present in an amount of from 0.001 to 10% by weight of the total weight of the corresponding composition (s).

The cosmetic composition (s) of the invention may be in various galenical forms, such as a powder, a lotion, a mousse, a cream, a gel or in any other form suitable for carrying out a dyeing keratinous fibers. They can also be packaged in a pump bottle without propellant or under pressure in an aerosol bottle in the presence of a propellant and form a foam. pH of the composition (s)

The method according to the invention implements ingredients a), b) and c), with the final pH which is basic or alkaline is greater than 7 and preferably between 8 and 12. Particularly between 8 and 10.5. It is the same for the compositions according to the invention which are basic or alkaline and which have a pH greater than 7, preferably between 8 and 12. Particularly between 8 and 10.5.

The pH of these compositions can be adjusted to the desired value by means of alkalinizing agents as defined previously in c) or acidifying agents usually used for dyeing keratin fibers or else using conventional buffer systems.

Among the acidifying agents of the compositions used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulphonic acids.

Among the alkalinizing agents are the agents as defined above in "c) alkalinizing agent (s)".

Staining process in one or more steps

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the dyeing process is carried out, in one or more steps, by application to the keratinous fibers of one or more cosmetic compositions containing, taken together or separately in the said composition or compositions, the following ingredients:

a) one or more derivatives of orthodiphenol (s) as defined previously and optionally one or more metal derivative (s) as defined previously in "derivative (s) metalligue (s)" ;

b) one or more chemical oxidizing agent (s) as defined above; c) one or more basifying agent (s) as defined above, it being understood that the pH at the end of the process is alkaline is greater than 7 and preferably between 8 and 12. Particularly between 8 and 10.5 ; with at least one of said compositions being aqueous. Preferably, the ortho-diphenol (s) are applied together with the metal derivative (s).

The pause time between the stages of application of the compositions comprising the ingredient (s) a), b) and / or c) is set between 3 and 120 minutes, preferably between 10 and 60 minutes and more particularly between 15 and 45 minutes. .

The keratinous fibers may or may not be previously moistened.

More particularly, in the process of the invention, the compound (s) c) are either in admixture with a), and optionally the metal derivative (s) as defined above, and (b); is applied separately after application of a cosmetic composition comprising the ingredients a) and the metal derivative (s) as defined above and (b); or

or applied together with ingredient a) after application of a cosmetic composition comprising ingredient (s) b).

A particular embodiment of the invention relates to staining methods in one or two steps.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the process for dyeing keratin fibers is in two steps.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the process of the invention, the alkalinizing agent (s) are applied after the bundles have been treated with (a) and optionally the metal derivative (s) as defined above and (b) as defined above.

In a two-step process variant the first step consists in applying to said fibers a cosmetic composition comprising the ingredients a) and optionally the metal derivative (s) as defined above and (b) as defined above, then in a second step a cosmetic composition comprising the ingredient c) as defined above is applied to said fibers, it being understood that at least one of the two cosmetic compositions is aqueous.

According to a particularly advantageous process of the invention, the ingredient c) which is applied to the fibers comprises at least one (bi) carbonate as defined above. More particularly, the (bi) carbonate is in a composition in the presence of another alkaline agent, particularly an alkanolamine such as monoethanolamine.

Preferably, the dyeing process according to the invention is carried out in two stages, the first step of which is to apply to the keratin fibers the ingredients a) and optionally the metal derivative (s) as defined above and (b) together then in a second step of applying together ingredients c) and optionally followed by post-treatment steps such as rinsing for example with water, shampooing with a conventional shampoo and / or drying keratinous fibers.

For these latter processes, the pause time after application of the cosmetic composition for the first step is generally set between 3 and 120 minutes and preferably between 10 and 60 minutes and more preferably between 15 and 45 minutes. The pause time after application of the second cosmetic composition for the second step is generally set between 3 and 120 minutes and preferably between 3 and 60 minutes and more preferably between 5 and 30 minutes.

Whatever the mode of application, the application temperature is generally between room temperature (15 to 25 ° C) and 80 ° C and more particularly between 15 and 45 ° C. Thus, it is advantageous, after application of the composition according to the invention, to subject the hair to a heat treatment by heating at a temperature of between 30 and 60 ° C. In practice, this operation can be carried out by means of a hairdressing helmet, a hair dryer, an infrared dispenser and other conventional heating devices.

Both heating and smoothing of the hair can be used as a heating iron at a temperature of between 60 and 220 ° C and preferably between 120 and 200 ° C.

A particular embodiment of the invention relates to a dyeing process which is carried out at room temperature (25 ° C).

In all the particular modes and variants of the processes described above, the compositions mentioned are ready-to-use compositions which may result from the extemporaneous mixing of two or more compositions, and in particular of compositions present in dyeing kits.

Device or "kit" for dyeing: Another object of the invention is a multi-compartment device or "kit" of dyeing. Advantageously, this kit comprises from 2 to 5 compartments containing from 2 to 5 compositions in which the ingredients are distributed a) one or more derivatives of orthodiphenol (s), b) one or more oxidizing agent (s) (s) chemical (s), c) one or more basifying agent (s), said compositions comprising a), b) and / or c) being aqueous or powdery, with particularly at least one of these compositions being aqueous .

The compositions of the device according to the invention are packaged in separate compartments, possibly accompanied by appropriate means of application, identical or different, such as brushes, brushes or sponges.

The device mentioned above can also be equipped with a means for delivering the desired mixture onto the hair, for example such as the devices described in the patent FR 2,586,913.

EXAMPLES OF COLORING

Colorimetric results

Hair coloring is visually assessed and read with the Minolta spectrocolori meter (CM3600d, D65 illuminant, 10 ° angle, SCI values) for L ^* , a ^* , b ^* colorimetric measurements.

In this system L ^* a ^* b ^* , L ^* represents the intensity of the color, a ^* indicates the green / red color axis and b ^* the blue / yellow color axis. The lower the value of L, the darker or more intense the color. The higher the value of a ^{* the} higher the shade is red and the higher the value of b ^* the hue is yellow.

The color variation between the untreated (control) and post-treatment colored hair strands is defined by (ΔΕ ^* ) according to the following equation: Δ E * = j (L * -L ₀ *) ² + (a * - a ₀ *) ² + (b * - b ₀ *) ²

In this equation, L ^* , a ^* and b ^* represent the values measured after staining of the hair permed at 90% of whites and L ^* ₀ , at ₀ ^* and b ₀ ^* represent the measured values of the hair permed at 90% of whites. untreated.

The greater the value of ΔΕ, the greater the difference in color between the control locks and the colored locks.

Protocol:

1. Treatment phase with orthodiphenols / extracts:

Composition for 100 g:

32 g water

32 g ethanol

32 g propylene glycol

0.42 g of quercitin

1 molar equivalent (/ quercitin) of peracetic acid

The treatment of the keratinous fibers is carried out by applying with a bath ratio 1 g of lock to 12 g of composition on 90% white permed hair. The pause time after application is 30 minutes in an oven 50 ° C under aluminum foil. 2. Color revealing phase:

Alkaline composition (pH 9.5) per 100g

2.6 g of ammonium bicarbonate

2 g of monoethanol amine

Qs 100 g water

The treatment of the keratinous fibers is then carried out by application to hair with a bath ratio of 1 g of hair per 2.5 g of revealing composition. The pause time after application is 10 minutes at room temperature. 3. Rinsing, shampooing and drying.

The treatment is finished by rinsing with water, shampooing with a classic shampoo and drying in the hair dryer.

The resulting color is bright yellow.

Claims

1. A process for dyeing keratin fibers, in one or more steps, by applying to said fibers one or more cosmetic compositions containing, taken together or separately in said composition or compositions, the following ingredients:

a) one or more derivatives of orthodiphenol (s);

b-2) alkali metal or quaternary ammonium persalts;

b-4) organic peroxides;

b-5) oxidizing anions;

b-6) N-oxy stable radicals (NO);

b-7) hypervalent derivatives of iodine;

the optional supports for the oxidants b-1) to b-8) that can be chosen from silica, alumina, charcoal, charged or neutral polymers; and

(c) one or more basifying agent (s);

it being understood that the pH of the composition comprising ingredient d) is alkaline, ie greater than 7 particularly between 8 and 12, especially between 8 and 10.5.

2. The method of dyeing according to the preceding claim wherein the or orthodiphenol (s) selected from derivatives (s) natural orthodiphenol (s).

3. A method of dyeing according to claim 1 or 2 wherein the ingredient i) is an aromatic ring orthodiphenol selected from benzene, naphthalene, tetrahydronaphthalene, indane, indene, anthracene, phenanthrene, isoindole, indoline, isoindoline, benzofuran, dihydrobenzofuran, chromane, isochromane, chromene, isochromene, quinoline, tetrahydroquinoline and isoquinoline, said aromatic rings having at least two groups hydroxy carried by two adjacent contiguous atoms of the aromatic ring.

4. Staining process according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the ingredient i) is of formula (I) below or one of its oligomers, in salified form or not:

formula (I) in which the substituents:

Ri to R ₄ , identical or different, represent:

a hydrogen atom,

a halogen atom,

a hydroxy radical,

a carboxyl radical,

an alkyl or alkoxycarbonyl carboxylate radical,

an optionally substituted amino radical,

an optionally substituted linear or branched alkyl radical,

an optionally substituted linear or branched alkenyl radical,

an optionally substituted cycloalkyl radical,

an alkoxy radical,

an alkoxyalkyl radical,

a substituted aryl radical,

a heterocyclic radical, saturated or unsaturated, bearing or not a cationic or anionic charge, optionally substituted and / or optionally condensed with an aromatic ring, said aromatic ring being optionally substituted, a radical containing one or more silicon atoms,

where two of the substituents carried by two adjacent carbon atoms R 1 - R ₂ , R ₂ - R 3 or

R ₃ - R ₄ together form a saturated or unsaturated ring, aromatic or otherwise, substituted or unsubstituted, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms and optionally condensed with one or more saturated or unsaturated rings, optionally substituted, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms.

5. The method of dyeing according to the preceding claim wherein the orthodiphenol (s) are chosen from:

- flavonols,

anthocyanidins,

anthocyanins or anthocyanins,

orthohydroxybenzoates,

- the flavones,

hydroxystilbenes,

3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine and its derivatives,

2,3-dihydroxyphenylalanine and its derivatives,

4,5-dihydroxyphenylalanine and its derivatives,

the dihydroxycinnamates,

orthopolyhydroxycoumarines,

orthopolyhydroxyisocoumarines,

orthopolyhydroxycoumarones,

orthopolyhydroxyisocoumarones,

orthopolyhydroxychalcones,

orthopolyhydroxychromones,

polyhydroxyquinones,

orthohydroxyxanthones,

1,2-dihydroxybenzene and its derivatives,

1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene and its derivatives,

1,2,3-trihydroxybenzene and its derivatives,

2,4,5 trihydroxytoluene and its derivatives,

proanthocyanidines,

- proathocyanines,

- tannic acid,

ellagic acid,

and the mixtures of the preceding compounds.

6. The method of dyeing according to any one of claims 2 to 5 wherein the orthodiphenol (s) natural (s) i) are selected from the extracts of animals, bacteria, fungi, algae, plants.

7. The method of dyeing according to the preceding claim wherein the orthodiphenol (s) natural (s) i) are chosen from: - tea leaf extracts, rosemary leaf extracts and mate leaf extracts;

fruit extracts, such as grape extracts, bean extracts and / or cocoa pods;

- vegetable extracts, such as onion peel extracts;

- wood extracts from trees, such as pine bark extracts, logwood extracts.

8. Staining process according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the chemical oxidizing agent (s) supported or not, b) is (are) chosen from:

b-1) ozone;

b-3) aliphatic organic peracids -C ₆ aromatic C ₆ -C ₂ o and forms percarboxylates: RC (0) 0-OM 'with R representing a group (CrC ₆₎ alkyl, or (C ₆ -C ₂ o) aryl such as phenyl, M 'representing a hydrogen atom (peracid) an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal (percarboxylate) are chosen from performic acid, peracetic acid, derivatives of perbenzoic acids, acid trifluoroacetic acid, peroxyphthalic acid, peroxymaleic acid, peroxypropionic acid especially the oxidant is peracetic acid;

b-4) organic peroxides selected from dioxirane, C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl peroxides, benzoyl peroxide, peroxo (C ₁ -C ₆ ) alkyl carboxylates, bis (tri) (C ₁ -C ₆ ) peroxides alkylsilyl such as bis (trimethylsilyl) peroxide, C ₆ alkyl peroxydicarbonates, sodium nonanoyloxybenzene sulfonate b-5) oxidizing anions selected from nitrites, nitrates, hypochlorites, hypobromites, hypoiodites, chlorites, bromites , iodites, chlorates, bromates, iodates, periodates, more particularly the oxidant is selected from hypochlorite or alkali metal periodate such as sodium hypochlorite or sodium periodate;

b-6) stable N-oxy radicals (NO) chosen from i) heterocycles containing a sterically hindered N-oxide group such as the radical 2,2,6,6-tetra (Cr C ₆ ) alkylpiperidino-oxy; 2,2,6,6-tetra (C ₁ -C ₆ ) alkylmorpholinooxy; (ii) the salts of Fremy nitrosodisulfonates, and iii) morpholine N-oxide; the oxidant is especially selected from the 2,2,6,6-tetramethylpiperidinyloxy radical

b-7) the hypervalent derivatives of iodine, chosen from iodotri acetate, iodosobenzene, iodobenzenetriacetate, iodoperbenzoic acid derivatives, periodinans, alkyls and benzoylhypoiodites, more preferably the oxidant is chosen from iodotriacetate, iodosobenzene, iodobenzenetriacetate, iodoperbenzoic acid, Dess-Martin periodinane; the iodoaryl diallkyl of (Ci-C ₆₎ carboxylate such as iodobenzene diacetate;

9. The method of dyeing according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the chemical oxidizing agent (s) supported (s) or not, b) is (are) chosen (s) from:

alkaline agent perborates, such as sodium perborate,

alkaline persulfates such as sodium persulfate, and oxone or potassium persulfate,

the carboxylic acid peracids RC (O) O-OH with R representing a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group such as methyl, and

alkaline earth metal hypochlorites such as calcium hypochlorite, alkali metal or alkaline periodates such as sodium periodate, and - iodoaryl diallkyl of (Ci-C ₆₎ carboxylate such as iodobenzene diacetate.

10. The method of dyeing according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the chemical oxidizing agent (s) supported (s) or not, b) are in an amount between 0.001% to 30% by weight. weight expressed as an oxidizing agent relative to the total weight of the composition or compositions containing them or, more preferably, from 0.2% to 15% by weight.

11. The method of dyeing according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the alkalinizing agent (s) c) is (are) chosen from:

i) (bi) carbonates, ii) ammonia, iii) alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and their derivatives iv) oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, v) inorganic or organic hydroxides, vi) metal silicates alkalis such as sodium metasilicates, vii) basic amino acids such as arginine, lysine, ornithine, citruline and histidine, and viii) compounds of the following formula (II):

in which W is a divalent (CrC ₈ ) alkylene radical optionally substituted by at least one hydroxyl group or at least one (CrC ₄ ) alkyl radical and / or optionally interrupted by at least one heterotatome such as oxygen, sulfur or by at least one group -N (R _e ) -; with R _a , Rb, R _c , Rd and R _e , identical or different, which represent a hydrogen atom, a radical (CrC ₄ ) alkyl or hydroxy (CrC ₄ ) alkyl; preferentially, W represents a propylene radical.

12. Coloring process according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the alkalinizing agent (s) c) is (are) chosen from alkanolamines and (bi) carbonates particularly alkaline or alkaline earth.

13. The method of dyeing according to any one of the preceding claims which furthermore implements one or more metal derivative (s) chosen (s) from:

(1) the following copper derivative (s):

i) copper (Cu) oxides of oxidation state I or II (Cu I or II);

H) copper metal complexes such as Cu and I metalloporphyrin (s), phthalocyanines and copper chlorophyllins;

iii) the salt (s) of Cu I and II chosen from:

a) Cu II halides of formula CuHal (R ² ) with Hal representing a halogen atom, and R ² representing a hydroxyl group, (CrC ₆ ) alkoxy, or R ¹ -C (O) O- with R ¹ representative of a group (CrC ₆ ) alkyl, b) the alkyl (CrCi ₆ ) carboxylates of Cu II such as Cu acetate, c) the ((CrCi ₆ ) alkyl) sulphates of Cu such as ammoniacal Cu lauryl sulphate, d) Cu (bi) carbonate such as Cu carbonate,

f) the alkyl (CrCi ₆ ) polycarboxylates of Cu II with the alkyl group optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as the atom of nitrogen like the edetate of Cu,

h) heterocycloalkylcarboxylates such as Cu pidolate,

i) Cu deoxyribonucleate,

j) Cu oxalate,

k) Cu [(poly) (CrCi ₆ ) alkyl] (poly) phosphates such as Cu diphosphate,

metal complexes of Cu (I) or (II) comprising ligands, particularly those with mono, di, tri or tetra functionalized ligands, such as: e) Cu (II) complexes with bisazomethine ligand of formula (a) below:

(at)

as well as these hydrates, formula (a) in which:

o R 'is as defined for N (R') and P (R ');

Cu (II) complexes with azomethine ligand, such as those of formula (β) below:

as well as these hydrates, formula (β) in which: X, J, A, B, R 'and J are as defined previously in formula (a); g) derivatives of azo direct dyes with copper complex such as those of formula (γ) below:

with X, J, A and B as previously defined in formula (a),

h) the Cu (ll) complexes derived from dyes are particularly the Cu complexes of: 2,2'-dihydroxyazo; 2,2'-hydroxyaminoazo; 2,2'-dihydroxyazomethine, 2,2'-dihydroxycarboxyazo; 2,2'-dihydroxycarboxyazomethine; tridendate ligands derived from formazans;

2) gold (Au),

3) molybdenum (Mo),

4) the oxides of silver (Ag) I and II, the salts of Ag I and II selected from silver halides, the sulfate of Ag, [R ¹ -C (O) O] _n Ag with n = 1 or 2, R ¹ representing a group (CrC ₆ ) alkyl such as Ag acetate, lactate Ag, silver complexes such as metalloporphyrin Ag I, phthalocyanines Ag I or the chlorophyllins Ag I,

5) tungsten (W),

6) vanadium (V),

7) Ruthenium (Ru),

9) cerium (Ce),

10) rhenium (Re),

11) titanium (Ti),

12) silicon (Si),

13) tin oxides (Sn),

14) zirconium (Zr),

15) niobium (Nb),

16) indium (In),

17) selenium (Se), and

18) aluminum oxides (Al).

14. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which an aqueous composition is applied to the keratin fibers. comprising a), b), and c) as defined in any one of the preceding claims.

15. The method of dyeing according to any one of claims 1 to 13 in two steps consisting in the first step to be applied to the keratin fibers a composition comprising the ingredients a), optionally one or more metal derivative (s) as defined (s) in claim 13, and comprising b) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 10, and then in a second step of applying a composition comprising c) as defined in claims 1, 1 1 or 12 particularly at a pH greater than 7 and preferably between 8 and 12.

16. The method of dyeing according to any one of claims 1 to 13 and carried out in at least two stages ending in the treatment of keratin fibers with the ingredient c) as defined in claims 1, 1 1 or 12 and may be followed by post-treatment steps such as shampooing with conventional shampoo, rinsing for example with water and / or drying the keratinous fibers by heat treatment.

17. Coloring method according to any one of the preceding claims implementing one or more photoirradiation (s) by one or more electromagnetic wave (s) of wavelength between 10 nm in the UV range and 100 μηη in the IR infrared domain, which comes especially from artificial photoirradiation, in particular from UV-emitting lamps, incandescent, halogen, fluorescent, mercury, low-pressure lamps, low-pressure lamps, for example sodium or neon, high-pressure mercury lamps, halide lamps, xenon flash lamps, fluorescent excimer lamps such as xenon lamps, Light Emitting Diodes or LEDs from 50 to 1000mW , lamps emitting black light or Wood's light, and lasers

18. Cosmetic composition for coloring keratinous fibers containing:

a) one or more derivatives of orthodiphenol (s), as defined in any one of claims 1 to 7; and optionally one or more metal derivative (s) as defined in claim 13;

b) one or more chemical oxidizing agent (s) as defined in any one of claims 1 and 8 to 10; and

(c) one or more basifying agent (s) as defined in any of the claims 1, 1 1 or 12;

it being understood that the pH of said composition is alkaline is greater than 7 and preferably between 8 and 12, more particularly between 8 and 10.5.

19. Use for coloring keratinous fibers such as the hair of the combination of a) + b) + c) with:

c) one or more basifying agent (s) as defined in any one of claims 1, 1 1 or 12 and

optionally in the presence of one or more photoirradiation (s) by one or more electromagnetic wave (s) of wavelength between 10 nm in the UV range and 100 μηη such (s) as defined ( s) in claim 17;

it being understood that the pH of the combination of ingredients is alkaline is greater than 7 and preferably between 8 and 12, more particularly between 8 and 10.5.