FR2493232A1 - Footwear mfr. - has upper of skin or synthetic material with other material reinforcement where heat adhesive curving is last operation - Google Patents

Abstract

Mfr. is described of foot ware with high or low uppers, cut from skin or synthetic material. Over part or all of the inside is a lining of another material, natural or synthetic. A pre-cut reinforcement is inserted between the upper and a turnover. The upper (5) is assembled to the reinforcement by a heat-adhesive transfer. The upper is first made flat, curving is done in the last operation by a rear joining or by hot stamping before mounting. The reinforcement is cut from non woven sheet material, such as polyester.

Description

 The invention relates to a process for manufacturing footwear with a high or low upper, lined or unlined, as well as the articles produced from this process.

 The usual manufacture of shoes generally requires the cutting and preparation of the upper - of a chosen material - lined in leather or fabrics inside, or not doubled at all.

 For double articles, it is necessary to provide between the rod and the lining a cavity for insertion of the buttress, so that this zone, at the level of the casing, must be free of pitting right through the rod, since those -this would oppose the insertion of the buttress.

 In unlined articles, several types of buttress are currently used, rigid buttresses with thermo-fusible coating which are blocked on the rod by a seam or a border, curving on a heating matrix allowing, before assembly, to adhere the buttress at the rod.

 The chemical buttresses to be softened with a solvent can also be used, but it is necessary in this case to place a lining on the buttress.

 Shell buttresses, generally made of a material called "SYNDERME", are also used in unlined curves, the preforming that this material requires makes their use quite delicate. The traditional manufacturing process provides for the insertion between the top and the lining of a buttress which can be produced in different types of material. I1 is then proceeded to a curving, that is to say a shaping of the rear, either on a cold or heating matrix when it is hot-melt buttresses or heat-bonding.

 After this operation of fitting and curving the buttress, the assembly itself is carried out, by transferring the prepared rod to a machine whose plates fold the rod part projecting beyond the shape onto the first assembly, after which the fixing is carried out of the outsole with the possible insertion of a "shank" for certain articles.

 The invention in fact relates only to the operations preceding the mounting of the sole, that is to say those relating to the preparation of the upper, the lining and the buttress.

 It has in fact been observed that the traditional assemblies have a certain number of drawbacks due to the fact that it is necessary to provide and reserve between the rod and the lining a cavity for the insertion of the buttress, so that this zone at the level of the 'casing must necessarily be free of pitting, because they would oppose such an insertion. This for doubled items.

 For unlined articles, the invention makes it possible to eliminate the drawbacks of solvent-softened buttresses, the difficulty of using prO-curved buttresses, as well as the drawbacks of hot-melt buttresses. In addition, current buttresses, in particular those in cellulosic material, cause relatively long drying times hampering the manufacture of articles.

 In addition, if the buttresses are, for their attachment to the rod, immersed in a solvent, it is frequent that this product attacks the pigmentation of the leather, which harms the aesthetics and the finish of the articles.

 The invention aims to rer.edier these various disadvantages and relates to this effect a manufacturing and mounting process whose originality lies in the fact that all the operations of preparation of the rod, including the installation of the buttress and the fixing of the lining, takes place flat, the pre-molding and the shaping of this triple complex does not take place until after this operation which can moreover include any stitching, stitching or "flowering", always carried out flat .

 This process is made possible by the judicious choice of a new material constituting the buttress, the nature of this material being such that said buttress can be easily crossed by utility or aesthetic stitching.

For unlined articles, the material used makes it possible to make buttresses with external and internal extensions, without it being necessary to previously conform the buttress, which is the case for "SYNDERME" buttresses.
The invention therefore relates to a process for the manufacture of footwear with a high or low upper, cut from any material, internally furnished in whole or in part, or not furnished at all. The buttress is made of a material cut from a polyester fiber sheet coated with vulcanized synthetic latex on this support.

 It is thinned on the edge, so as not to injure the foot, a heat-adhesive transfer film is then deposited on the buttress. The buttress is then applied to the top part and passed under a heating press, in order to make the top and the buttress integral.

 The next operation consists in joining the top, the buttress and the lining with a new heat-bonding binder.

This triple set thus constituted, it only remains to carry out any operation of utility or aesthetic stitching, necessary for the realization of the model.

 It is also possible to attach any accessory flanges, guards, eyelets, pompoms, etc. If the model has a rear joint, a joint made according to conventional procedures supplemented by crushing and the installation of a protective strip is sufficient to achieve the curved fitting according to the needs of the article.

 Another solution consists in removing the joint which joins the two quarters on the midline of the embo-îtaga, and making a buttress in one piece. A single assembly operation then closes the rod.

 For articles without a lining, the buttress can be prepared as described for the double model, but if it is made in one piece, it can simply be blocked at the top by a seam or caught in a border operation.

 The material used, which is of great resistance and good malleability, lends itself perfectly well to the production of the buttresses, in that it readily conforms to heat and that its thickness does not affect the robustness of the article.

 Other characteristics and advantages of the method according to the invention will emerge from the description below and the appended drawings, in which one can see a number of sketches representing the various possibilities offered by the invention.

 Fig. 1 is a plan view of a rod produced with the rear part flat.

 Fig. 2 is a perspective view of the rod illustrated in FIG. 1, but assembled.

 Fig. 3 is a plan view of a lined model with rear join.

 Fig. 4 is a plan view of an unlined model with rear join.

 Fig. 5 is a plan view of an unlined rod with the buttress taken in a single puncture.

 Fig. 6 is a plan view of a rod with grip of the buttress in a border.

 These figures therefore show that the buttress can be made in one piece (Fig. 15 5 and 6) and be either inserted between the rod and the lining, or fixed on an unlined rod by simple stitching 1 (Fig. 5 ) or by a border 2 overlapping the upper edge of the rod and thus covering border 1.

These same drawings also show that the buttress can be produced in two versions 31 32 (Fig. 3 and 4), the rod being in these two cases interrupted at the rear but assembled by a rear joint connecting the two edges
In accordance with the invention, first of all the tracing and cutting out of a chosen material, for example in a leather or synthetic material, of a plane constituting the shoe, the design of this plane being obviously determined by the type of shoes to be made (shoes with high or low toe).

 The rod 5 can be thinned around its periphery to carry out filling operations or avoid too much extra thickness, in the parts that are too visible, in the assembly parts or in the mounting area.

 The lining is also cut from another material. 6 Finally, the buttress, short or extended, intended to reinforce the entire casing of the shoe, that is to say the entire rear part, is cut from a third sheet material. short buttresses, and the rear part plus the camber for the extended buttress.

 This buttress is drawn from a sheet material consisting of polyester non-woven fibers or other coated with vulcanized synthetic latex on said material, or from a buttress made of another type of material, allowing thinning, hot shaping and the possibility of being crossed right through by any functional or aesthetic puncture.

 The buttress is adorned and coated with a heat-adhesive film called "transfer", in order to be fixed to the internal face of the rod by heat-bonding. This operation is carried out with a press at a temperature of approximately 1200, and for a period of approximately seven seconds. The connection thanks to the fusible transfer, is such that the rod and the buttress no longer form a single element.

 This material indeed has the advantage of being both flexible in the thinned parts, rigid moreover, which gives the article of footwear the desired resistance at the level of the casing and also its comfort due to the fact that the buttress lends itself particularly well to curving.

 The lining 6 is then applied to the rod 5 thus trapping the buttress 7, the rod-lining connection (FIG. 1-3) being able, again, to be produced using a heat-adhesive transfer film subjected to same temperature and time conditions as the buttress or by "LATEX" gluing or other traditional glue.

 A triple, monobloc and homogeneous complex is thus obtained, produced flat, that is to say before the pre-molding of the casing. We can take advantage of the plan state of the complex to bring on the rod all the accessories useful for the footwear, for example, guards, tassels, eyelets, straps or other similar parts, the fixing of these accessories can be made by thermo-bonding or by stitching.

 In this regard, it will be noted that the triple complex can be traversed right through by functional or aesthetic picores. For example, we can take advantage of the plan state of the complex to produce fancy pores at the vamp or the casing. Similarly, one can also fix at the level of the upper an end, if necessary. As illustrated in Fig. 2, the rod can be made in one piece, and its closure before re-molding is obtained by joining the edges 8 and 9, this can be achieved by pitting.

 When the rod is thus prepared, the rear part of the rod corresponding to the zone 10 illustrated in FIG. 2 on a conventional machine with a heating matrix and an airbag foreman. The matrix is brought to a temperature of approximately 120 ° C. and the pressure of the cushion at 8 kg, and the embolism is maintained between these two elements for approximately seven seconds to ensure the curving of the buttress, it being understood that the matrix and the buttress have complementary shapes corresponding to the final profile of the back of the rod. We then ensure the stabilization of the buttress on a refrigerated matrix, so as to fix it in its final form. It is also possible to pass the casing over a heating matrix for softening and, if necessary5 heat-bonding the buttress then, while the buttress is still hot, make a shaping of the casing on a wooden matrix on which comes s '' apply a blowing cushion which allows the desired shape to be properly fitted to the buttress.

 At this stage, the rod thus shaped can then be mounted on form and fixed to a first assembly by folding the mounting margin under this first.

 Ee process of the invention is rational and economical, because it allows to perform flat, all the operations of preparation of the rod by traditional or automatic stitching methods, the shaping of the rod being as to it realized by straight stitching or turned joints.

Claims (10)

 1. Process for the manufacture of articles  footwear with a high or low upper cut from a peausserie or  a synthetic material and filled in whole or in part  a lining cut from another natural or synthetic material,  or not doubled at all, process characterized by a pre buttress  cut that is inserted between this rod and this lining or that  one simply fixes (non-double articles), after which the whole  is shaped by curling to obtain the shape of the desired casing.  2. Method according to claim 1, characterized  in that the rod (5) is assembled to the buttress (7) by a heat-adhesive transfer.  3. Method according to any one of the reven  dications 1.and 2, taken in the case where the rod is doubled, charac  terized in that the lining (6) is fixed to the rod (5) by covering  the rod by thermo-adhesive or traditional assembly.  4. Method according to claim 1, characterized  in that the rod is made flat, the bending being only carried out  as a last operation by a rear join or by a stamping  warm before mounting.  5. Method according to claim 1, characterized  in that the buttress (7) is cut from a sheet material  consisting of non-woven fibers, polyester or other plastics of vulcanized latex vulcanized on said material, said buttress being bent around its periphery before its attachment to the rod.  6. Method according to any one of the claims  from 1 to 5, characterized in that the buttress (7) is thermo-bonded  and the rod (5) at a temperature of approximately 1200 and for a period  seven seconds.  7. Method according to claim 1, according to which  the shaping is carried out using a heating matrix machine and  inflatable counter-matrix, characterized in that the matrix is carried  at about 1200C and the airbag at about 8 kg of pressure, the curving for about seven seconds.  8. Method according to claim 7, characterized  in that the curved buttress is stabilized on a  refrigerated matrix.  9. The method of claim 7, characterized in that the curving is carried out on a heating matrix to obtain softening and if necessary, the heat-bonding of the buttress, then taking advantage of the still hot state of the buttress, the 'casing on a wooden matrix on which is applied a airbag intended to conform the buttress to the desired shape.  10. Method according to any one of claims from 1 to 9, characterized in that, in the case of an unlined rod, one-piece or two-part contrerrortsg are used, with external or internal extension, without conformation prior.