EP4496551A1 - Composition de gel cosmétique présentant une adhésivité réduite et des propriétés d'absorption rapide - Google Patents

Composition de gel cosmétique présentant une adhésivité réduite et des propriétés d'absorption rapide

Info

Publication number
EP4496551A1
EP4496551A1 EP22942058.3A EP22942058A EP4496551A1 EP 4496551 A1 EP4496551 A1 EP 4496551A1 EP 22942058 A EP22942058 A EP 22942058A EP 4496551 A1 EP4496551 A1 EP 4496551A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
weight
composition
gum
calculated
total weight
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP22942058.3A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP4496551A4 (fr
Inventor
Julia Eckert
Claudia Mueller
Fasong LI
Yan Li
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Nivea Shanghai Co Ltd
Beiersdorf AG
Original Assignee
Niva Shanghai Co Ltd
Beiersdorf AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Niva Shanghai Co Ltd, Beiersdorf AG filed Critical Niva Shanghai Co Ltd
Publication of EP4496551A1 publication Critical patent/EP4496551A1/fr
Publication of EP4496551A4 publication Critical patent/EP4496551A4/fr
Pending legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/042—Gels
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8188—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bonds, and at least one being terminated by a bond to sulfur or by a hertocyclic ring containing sulfur; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/34—Free of silicones

Definitions

  • the present invention belongs to the cosmetic field and relates to a cosmetic composition with reduced stickiness and fast skin absorption properties.
  • Cosmetic products generally not only serve to look beautiful and attractive, but their effects make a decisive contribution to increased self-esteem and people's wellbeing. Accordingly, a wide variety of cosmetic products are used for the daily cleaning and care of human skin.
  • Hydrogels and their use for administering cosmetic ingredients to the skin or mucous membrane of a person are known.
  • the term "gel” is understood to mean relatively dimensionally stable, easily deformable disperse systems of at least two components, which are usually composed of a -mostly solid -colloidally divided substance made up of long-chain molecular groups (e.g. gelatin, silica, polysaccharides) .
  • the colloidally divided substance is often referred to as a thickener, gel former or gelling agent. It forms a spatial network in the dispersant, whereby individual colloidal particles are more or less solid with each other through electrostatic interaction can be linked.
  • the gel forming polymers in powder form that are the most commonly known are polymers based on acrylic acid or copolymers based on acrylic acid and esters thereof, for instance the polymers sold under the names Carbopol TM and Pemulen TM and which are described especially in U.S. Pat. No. 5,373,044 and U.S. Pat. No.
  • the dispersant which surrounds the network is characterized by an electrostatic affinity for the thickener; That is, a predominantly polar (in particular: hydrophilic) thickener preferably gels a polar dispersant (in particular: water) , whereas a predominantly non-polar thickener preferably gels non-polar dispersant.
  • a predominantly polar (in particular: hydrophilic) thickener preferably gels a polar dispersant (in particular: water)
  • a predominantly non-polar thickener preferably gels non-polar dispersant.
  • Hydrogels can consist of almost 100%water (in addition to about 0.2-1.0%of a gelling agent, for example) and have a firm consistency. In cosmetic galenics, hydrogels gels are usually characterized by a semi-solid, often flowable consistency.
  • hydrogels from DE2005056497 A1, among others.
  • the abovementioned polymers are essentially intended for the gel forming of cosmetic topical formulations. Further, if combined with low levels of glycerol such as less than 4%the formed hydrogels are perceived to be not sticky while maintaining a refreshing effect by the use of formulations on the skin.
  • certain hydrogels, more particularly those intended for skincare also contain relatively large amounts of glycerol, typically between 4.5%and 10%by weight, for increasing their moisturizing power.
  • formulators add thereto low levels of silicone oils to limit or eliminate this tacky effect. But, the presence of silicone oils in such formulations, which are intended to be in direct contact with the skin, is poorly appreciated by the end consumer. The cosmetic industry thus attempts to limit the use of silicone compounds thereof.
  • the cosmetic industry has to focus on the biodegradable /natural polymers such as xanthan or guar gums.
  • the introduction of those polymers leads to a further increase in stickiness of the hydrogels, which is even more problematic if glycerol is contained in quantities exceeding 4.5%by weight of the formulations.
  • the introduction of the polymers leads to an increase of the absorption time of the hydrogel on the skin.
  • a first object of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising based on the total weight of the composition
  • compositions according to the invention allow for a fast absorption while having a less sticky sensation on the skin.
  • a further aspect of the invention is the use of methylheptylglycerin in a cosmetic composition comprising a natural gum to allow a faster absorption of the composition on the skin.
  • a further aspect of the invention is the use of methylheptylglycerin and a natural gum in a cosmetic composition to allow a faster absorption of the composition on the skin.
  • a further aspect of the invention is the use of methylheptylglycerin in a cosmetic composition comprising a natural gum to reduce the sticky feeling of the composition after application to the skin.
  • a further aspect of the invention is the use of methylheptylglycerin and a natural gum in a cosmetic composition to reduce the sticky feeling of the composition after application to the skin.
  • the composition is preferably a hydrogel.
  • normal conditions refers to 20°C, 1013 hPa and a relative humidity of 50%.
  • the term "free from” means that the proportion of the respective substance is less than 0.5%by weight, preferably less than 0.3%by weight, more preferably less than 0.2%by weight, more preferably less than 0.1%by weight and most preferably less than 0.05%by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • skin refers solely to the human skin.
  • Emulsifiers are understood to be all substances which are listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010, (ISBN 1-882621-47-6) under the name “emulsifying agent” .
  • Surfactants are understood to be all substances which are listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010, (ISBN 1-882621-47-6) under the name “surfactant” .
  • the composition comprises oil and wax compounds in quantities of less than 1%by weight, more preferably less than 0.5%by weight, more preferably less than 0.2%, more preferably less than 0.1%and most preferably 0%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the compositions. Accordingly, hydrogels are considerably different from emulsions, as only low quantities or no oil at all is contained.
  • a further difference to a conventional emulsion is that the hydrogel does not require the presence of an emulsifier.
  • the formulations of the invention are preferably free from emulsifier.
  • the compositions comprises at least one natural gum.
  • the natural gum is selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, gellan gum, sclerotium gum, dehydroxanthan gum, cellulose gum (sodium carboxymethylcellulose) , ceratonia siliqua gum, caesalpinia spinosa gum and succinoglycan gum.
  • the composition comprises 0.05 to 1%by weight of at least one polymer selected from the group of xanthan gum, gellan gum, sclerotium gum, dehydroxanthan gum, cellulose gum (sodium carboxymethylcellulose) , ceratonia siliqua gum, caesalpinia spinosa gum and succinoglycan gum, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • xanthan gum gellan gum
  • sclerotium gum dehydroxanthan gum
  • cellulose gum sodium carboxymethylcellulose
  • ceratonia siliqua gum ceratonia siliqua gum
  • caesalpinia spinosa gum and succinoglycan gum
  • the composition comprises 0.1 to 0.8%by weight, preferably 0.2 to 0.7%by weight and more preferably 0.3 to 0.6%by weight of at least one natural gum selected from the group of xanthan gum, gellan gum, sclerotium gum, dehydroxanthan gum, cellulose gum (sodium carboxymethylcellulose) , ceratonia siliqua gum, caesalpinia spinosa gum and succinoglycan gum, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • At least xanthan gum, gellan gum, cellulose gum (sodium carboxymethylcellulose) , ceratonia siliqua gum and/or caesalpinia spinosa gum are contained. Further it is particularly preferred if at least xanthan gum is contained. Further it is particularly preferred if at least gellan gum is contained. Further it is particularly preferred if at least cellulose gum is contained. Further it is particularly preferred if at least Ceratonia siliqua gum is contained. Further it is particularly preferred if at least caesalpinia spinosa gum is contained.
  • the composition comprises 0.1 to 0.8%by weight, preferably 0.2 to 0.7%by weight and more preferably 0.3 to 0.6%by weight of xanthan gum, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises 0.1 to 0.8%by weight, preferably 0.2 to 0.7%by weight and more preferably 0.3 to 0.6%by weight of gellan gum, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises 0.1 to 0.8%by weight, preferably 0.2 to 0.7%by weight and more preferably 0.3 to 0.6%by weight of sclerotium gum, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises 0.1 to 0.8%by weight, preferably 0.2 to 0.7%by weight and more preferably 0.3 to 0.6%by weight of dehydroxanthan gum, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises 0.1 to 0.8%by weight, preferably 0.2 to 0.7%by weight and more preferably 0.3 to 0.6%by weight of cellulose gum (sodium carboxymethylcellulose) , calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • cellulose gum sodium carboxymethylcellulose
  • the composition comprises 0.1 to 0.8%by weight, preferably 0.2 to 0.7%by weight and more preferably 0.3 to 0.6%by weight of ceratonia siliqua gum, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises 0.1 to 0.8%by weight, preferably 0.2 to 0.7%by weight and more preferably 0.3 to 0.6%by weight of caesalpinia spinosa gum, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises 0.1 to 0.8%by weight, preferably 0.2 to 0.7%by weight and more preferably 0.3 to 0.6%by weight of succinoglycan gum, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.1 to 5%by weight of methylheptylglycerin. It is preferred if the total quantity of methylheptylglycerin is in the range from 0.15 to 2%by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 1.5%by weight and most preferably from 0.25 to 1.1%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises glycerol (glycerin) .
  • glycerol glycerin
  • the total quantity of the glycerol is more than 4.5%by weight calculated to the total weight of the composition. It is preferred if the total quantity of glycerol is in the range from 4.5%by weight to 10%by weight, more preferably 5 to 9%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • the invention allowed for a fast absorption while having a less sticky sensation on the skin even if glycerol is contained in the high quantities as described above.
  • composition according to the invention comprises further short chain polyols comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms.
  • Preferred polyols of that type are Butylene glycol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1, 2 hexanediol, 1, 2 heptanediol, 1,2 propanediol, methylpropanediol and caprylyl glycol.
  • those preferred polyols are contained in quantities ranging from 0.5 to 7%by weight, more preferably 1 to 5%by weight and most preferably from 1.5 to 4%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • butylene glycol is contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of butylene glycol is in the range from 1.5 to 3.5%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • 1, 2 hexanediol is contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of 1, 2 hexanediol is in the range from 0.1 to 0.8%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition comprises phenoxyethanol and/or ethylhexylglycerin.
  • phenoxyethanol is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of phenoxyethanol is in the range from 0.1 to 0.8%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • ethylhexylglycerin is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of ethylhexylglycerin is in the range from 0.1 to 1.2%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • active ingredients are contained. These are advantageously selected from the group containing sodium hyaluronate, 1-methylhydantoin-2-imide, creatine, folic acid, panthenol, pantolactone, vitamin C, magnolia, calcium pantothenate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate.
  • the active ingredients mentioned in the group are advantageously used in total proportions of up to 2%by weight, preferably less than 1%by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises a gel network.
  • a gel network in the composition can be confirmed by means known to one of skill in the art. For example, X-ray analysis, optical microscopy, electron microscopy, and differential scanning calorimetry can be used to identify a gel network. A suitable x-ray analysis is described in U.S. Patent App. Publication No. 2006/0024256 which is cited.

Landscapes

  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne une composition cosmétique présentant une adhésivité réduite et des propriétés d'absorption cutanée rapide et comprenant, en fonction du poids total de la composition : a) de 0,05 à 1 % en poids d'au moins une gomme naturelle ; b) de 0,1 à 5 % en poids de méthylheptylglycérine ; c) moins de 0,1 % ou 0 % en poids d'une huile de silicone et/ou d'un composé de silicone ; d) moins de 0,1 % ou 0 % en poids de polymères formés par homo- ou copolymérisation avec de l'acide acrylique et/ou méthacrylique ; e) moins de 0,1 % ou 0 % en poids de polymères formés par homo- ou copolymérisation avec de l'acide 2-acrylamido-2-méthylpropanesulfonique.
EP22942058.3A 2022-05-19 2022-05-19 Composition de gel cosmétique présentant une adhésivité réduite et des propriétés d'absorption rapide Pending EP4496551A4 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/CN2022/093731 WO2023221016A1 (fr) 2022-05-19 2022-05-19 Composition de gel cosmétique présentant une adhésivité réduite et des propriétés d'absorption rapide

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP4496551A1 true EP4496551A1 (fr) 2025-01-29
EP4496551A4 EP4496551A4 (fr) 2026-01-07

Family

ID=88834228

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP22942058.3A Pending EP4496551A4 (fr) 2022-05-19 2022-05-19 Composition de gel cosmétique présentant une adhésivité réduite et des propriétés d'absorption rapide

Country Status (2)

Country Link
EP (1) EP4496551A4 (fr)
WO (1) WO2023221016A1 (fr)

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2025132038A2 (fr) * 2023-12-20 2025-06-26 Laboratoires De Biologie Vegetale Yves Rocher Composition cosmetique comprenant un complexe antimicrobien synergique

Family Cites Families (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2754451B1 (fr) * 1996-10-14 1998-11-06 Oreal Creme auto-moussante
WO2017129237A1 (fr) * 2016-01-27 2017-08-03 L'oreal Composition gel-gel contenant de l'acide salicylique, une alcanolamine et des pigments
KR102135047B1 (ko) * 2018-12-24 2020-07-17 그린코스 주식회사 분사용 젤타입 화장료 조성물의 제조방법
CN115297833B (zh) * 2020-03-31 2024-07-09 莱雅公司 呈凝胶形式的化妆品组合物
US20210363086A1 (en) * 2020-05-22 2021-11-25 Inolex Investment Corporation Biobased alkyl glyceryl ethers and methods of making and using the same
CN116456961B (zh) * 2020-11-04 2026-01-30 伊诺莱克斯投资公司 生物基甘油庚酸酯组合物及其制备方法和应用

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
WO2023221016A1 (fr) 2023-11-23
EP4496551A4 (fr) 2026-01-07

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