EP4276547B1 - Verfahren zur herstellung eines schlagwerkzeugs für die herstellung eines zierteils für schmuck, juwelierwaren oder uhren - Google Patents

Verfahren zur herstellung eines schlagwerkzeugs für die herstellung eines zierteils für schmuck, juwelierwaren oder uhren

Info

Publication number
EP4276547B1
EP4276547B1 EP22172493.3A EP22172493A EP4276547B1 EP 4276547 B1 EP4276547 B1 EP 4276547B1 EP 22172493 A EP22172493 A EP 22172493A EP 4276547 B1 EP4276547 B1 EP 4276547B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
substrate
workpiece
carried out
machining
jewellery
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Active
Application number
EP22172493.3A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP4276547A1 (de
Inventor
Pierre SAURET
Giovanni POLY
Corina BARBOS
Gregory Kissling
Frédéric Jeanrenaud
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Omega SA
Original Assignee
Omega SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Omega SA filed Critical Omega SA
Publication of EP4276547A1 publication Critical patent/EP4276547A1/de
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP4276547B1 publication Critical patent/EP4276547B1/de
Active legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

Links

Classifications

    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B37/00—Cases
    • G04B37/22—Materials or processes of manufacturing pocket watch or wrist watch cases
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C27/00—Making jewellery or other personal adornments
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B44—DECORATIVE ARTS
    • B44B—MACHINES, APPARATUS OR TOOLS FOR ARTISTIC WORK, e.g. FOR SCULPTURING, GUILLOCHING, CARVING, BRANDING, INLAYING
    • B44B5/00—Machines or apparatus for embossing decorations or marks, e.g. embossing coins
    • B44B5/02—Dies; Accessories
    • B44B5/026—Dies
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B19/00—Indicating the time by visual means
    • G04B19/06—Dials
    • G04B19/10—Ornamental shape of the graduations or the surface of the dial; Attachment of the graduations to the dial
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04D—APPARATUS OR TOOLS SPECIALLY DESIGNED FOR MAKING OR MAINTAINING CLOCKS OR WATCHES
    • G04D3/00—Watchmakers' or watch-repairers' machines or tools for working materials
    • G04D3/0002—Watchmakers' or watch-repairers' machines or tools for working materials for mechanical working other than with a lathe
    • G04D3/0043—Watchmakers' or watch-repairers' machines or tools for working materials for mechanical working other than with a lathe for components of the time-indicating mechanisms
    • G04D3/0048—Watchmakers' or watch-repairers' machines or tools for working materials for mechanical working other than with a lathe for components of the time-indicating mechanisms for dials
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04D—APPARATUS OR TOOLS SPECIALLY DESIGNED FOR MAKING OR MAINTAINING CLOCKS OR WATCHES
    • G04D3/00—Watchmakers' or watch-repairers' machines or tools for working materials
    • G04D3/0002—Watchmakers' or watch-repairers' machines or tools for working materials for mechanical working other than with a lathe
    • G04D3/0061—Watchmakers' or watch-repairers' machines or tools for working materials for mechanical working other than with a lathe for components for protecting the mechanism against external influences
    • G04D3/0064—Watchmakers' or watch-repairers' machines or tools for working materials for mechanical working other than with a lathe for components for protecting the mechanism against external influences for cases

Definitions

  • guilloché dials allow for highly varied and complex relief designs with a very high level of reflectivity, and therefore a highly sought-after aesthetic.
  • hand-crafted guilloché work is difficult to repeat, relatively time-consuming, and expensive to produce.
  • the invention may further comprise one or more of the following features, taken individually or in all technically possible combinations.
  • the part generation step is carried out by material deposition.
  • the step of The generation of a part is achieved by galvanic growth of nickel.
  • the part generation step is carried out by hot pressing an amorphous metal.
  • the amorphous metal can be an alloy with good hot-forming properties, such as the metals commonly designated as Vit106a or LM1b.
  • the machining step is carried out so that the portion of the reference surface having a mirror polished surface condition is constituted at least by a plurality of striations forming segments and having a mirror polished surface condition.
  • the machining step is carried out by mechanical machining.
  • the machining step is carried out by guilloché cutting.
  • the part is driven into the tool holder.
  • the substrate is made of steel, copper, copper alloy, aluminum, or platinum, silver, or gold alloys.
  • FIG 1 schematically represents the first step in a process for manufacturing a striking tool 10 intended for use in the production of a finishing component 20 in the jewelry, watchmaking, or fine jewelry industry.
  • a finishing component 20 in the jewelry, watchmaking, or fine jewelry industry.
  • Such a component is schematically shown on the figure 5 in view of section.
  • the first step of the process according to the invention is a machining step of a substrate surface 30, in order to obtain a surface called a "reference surface” 31, so as to obtain a three-dimensional shape, for example, a generally concave shape corresponding to a predefined design.
  • machining refers to any action of removing material from a blank.
  • shape is understood as defining the general shape of the design, and may include one or more raised and/or recessed features.
  • this machining step at least a portion of the machined surface of the substrate is polished so that the reference surface 31 has, over all or part of its surface, a mirror-polished finish.
  • the objective of this step is to obtain a decoration identical to that which is intended to be formed by stamping on the trim component 20, as shown in the Figures 1 and 5 .
  • the substrate 30 is advantageously made of steel, copper or copper alloy, aluminum or precious metal alloys, such as platinum, silver or gold alloy.
  • the process according to the invention subsequently comprises a step of generating a part 11 on the reference surface 31 of the substrate 30.
  • This step is carried out such that an interface surface 12 of the part 11 with the substrate 30 rests at every point against the reference surface 31 in order to intimately conform to its shape, as illustrated in the figure 2
  • every point of the interface surface 12 in other words every part of the interface surface 12, presents a surface condition identical to that of the reference surface 31 with which it is opposite.
  • the resulting interface surface 12 of part 11 has a three-dimensional shape, for example, generally convex, corresponding to the inverse of the predefined decoration applied to substrate 30.
  • the interface surface 12 of part 11 therefore has at least one portion with a mirror-polished surface finish.
  • Part 11 is then installed in a tool holder 13 so as to constitute a stamping tool 10 for stamping a decoration onto a blank 40 of a trim component 20, as schematically represented on the figure 3
  • part 11 and tool holder 13 form an upper matrix intended to produce a decoration on the blank 40.
  • Part 11 is preferably pressed into a cavity in tool holder 13, but it can also be fixed to tool holder 13 by any other suitable means, such as with a layer of glue or mechanical holding means.
  • a stamping tool 10 adapted to produce a trim component 20 on the one hand, having a particularly attractive appearance insofar as the stamping tool 10 can reproduce on said trim component 20 a very rich and complex decoration, the surface condition of which can be very varied, and on the other hand, in an easily repeatable and inexpensive way, with constant production quality and with industrial production rates.
  • the striking tool 10 obtained through the process according to the invention makes it possible to replicate industrially, on trim components, decorations of a very high level of quality and complexity, typical of manual decoration work, for example guilloché work. More generally, the striking tool 10 allows to reproduce, identically, easily and quickly on a dressing component, a complex decoration made on the substrate 30.
  • the machining step of a surface of the substrate 30 in order to obtain the reference surface 31 can thus be advantageously carried out by guilloché, as described above, by mechanical machining, by electro-erosion or by any other material removal technique, the present invention having the advantage of allowing the use of expensive and time-consuming machining techniques insofar as only the substrate 30 is machined and not each component of the cladding to be produced.
  • the machining step is carried out so that the portion or portions of the reference surface 31 having a mirror-polished surface condition are made up of at least a plurality of striations forming segments extending in straight or curved directions, parallel to each other or not.
  • the trim component 20 made from the striking tool 10 can reflect incident light in different ways depending on the orientation of the trim component 20, which is likely to cause a change in the appearance of the decoration it contains depending on the orientation of the user's viewing angle.
  • the step of generating a part 11 is carried out by material deposition, and more particularly by galvanic nickel growth.
  • This material deposition method has the advantage of allowing very high fidelity in reproducing the shape of the reference surface 31 by the shape of the interface surface 12 of the part 11 formed by the material deposition, in addition to allowing easy separation of said part 11 from the substrate 30.
  • Another advantage of this material deposition method lies in the fact that the nickel thus deposited is suitable for use as the material of a striking tool 10.
  • the step of generating a part 11 can be carried out by hot pressing an amorphous metal onto the reference surface 31 of the substrate 11.
  • This method has the advantage of being fast and also allows for very high fidelity in reproducing the shape of the reference surface 31 by the shape of the interface surface 12 of the Part 11.
  • Amorphous metal is suitable to constitute the material of the striking tool.
  • a method for manufacturing a jewelry, watchmaking, or fine jewelry component 20 is disclosed, implemented with the previously described striking tool 10.
  • a jewelry component 20, visible on the figure 5 For example, it is made from a blank 40 in copper or copper alloy, aluminum, steel, platinum, gold or silver alloy, or amorphous metal alloy. These materials are particularly well suited to being deformed by stamping and to reproducing with high fidelity the shape of the interface surface 12 of the stamping tool 10.
  • the manufacturing process for the housing component 20 includes a preliminary step of mirror polishing a housing surface 41 of the blank 40 of the housing component 20.
  • the housing surface 41 is, in this text, a surface of the housing component 20 intended to be visible to a user.
  • the mirror polishing step is followed by a stamping step of the dressing surface 41 of said blank 40 by striking with the interface surface 12 of the striking tool 10 in order to form on said dressing surface 41 a three-dimensional decoration corresponding to the complementary shape, i.e. the inverse shape, of that of the decoration which presents the striking tool 10.
  • This stamping step is carried out by a strike whose force is for example between 50 kN and 700 kN, and more particularly between 250 kN and 300 kN.
  • the blank 40 of the trim component 20 is held in position by a lower die (not shown in the figures), in a manner known to those skilled in the art, in order to be able to absorb the forces applied by the stamping tool 10 and to be able to deform properly at the level of its trim surface 41, during the stamping step.
  • the stamping step allows for the reproduction of the shape of the interface surface 12 of the striking tool 10, as well as its various surface finishes, at the micrometer or submicrometer scale.
  • the surface finish of the dressing surface 41 therefore corresponds to that of the interface surface 12.
  • the invention can, in particular, advantageously be applied to the field of watchmaking and relate to a method of making a striking tool 10 for the manufacture of a dial, and a method of manufacturing a dial with such a striking tool 10.

Landscapes

  • Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • General Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
  • Adornments (AREA)

Claims (10)

  1. Verfahren für ein Herstellen eines Stanzwerkzeugs (10) für eine Fertigung eines Außenteils (20) für die Verwendung in Schmuck, edlem Schmuck oder Uhren, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es die folgenden Schritte umfasst:
    - Bearbeiten einer Oberfläche eines Substrats (30), für ein Herstellen einer Referenzplatte (31) mit einer dreidimensionalen, einer vordefinierten Verzierung entsprechenden Form, wobei wenigstens ein Abschnitt der Referenzplatte (31) einen hochglanzpolierten Oberflächenzustand aufweist,
    - Abwalzfräsen eines Werkstücks (11) auf der Referenzplatte (31) des Substrats (30), die eine Grenzfläche (12) mit dem Substrat (30) aufweist, das an allen Punkten an der Referenzplatte (31) anliegt, um sich eng an deren Form anzupassen, sodass die Grenzfläche (12) eine dreidimensionale Form aufweist, die der Umkehrung der vordefinierten Verzierung entspricht, und sodass jeder Punkt auf der Grenzfläche (12) einen Oberflächenzustand aufweist, der mit dem der Referenzplatte (31) identisch ist, deren Gegenstück er ist.
    - Trennen des Werkstücks (11) von dem Substrat (30) und Einsetzen des Werkstücks (11) in einen Werkzeughalter (13), sodass es ein Prägewerkzeug (10) für ein Prägen einer Verzierung auf ein Rohwerk (40) eines Bauteils (20) eines äußeren Teils durch Prägen der Grenzfläche (12) bildet.
  2. Verfahren nach Anspruch 1, wobei der Abwalzfrässchritt des Werkstücks (11) durch Materialabscheidung durchgeführt wird.
  3. Verfahren nach Anspruch 2, wobei der Abwalzfrässchritt des Werkstücks (11) durch galvanisches Nickelwachstum durchgeführt wird.
  4. Verfahren nach Anspruch 1, wobei der Abwalzfrässchritt des Werkstücks (11) durch Heißpressen eines amorphen Metalls durchgeführt wird.
  5. Verfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 4, wobei der Bearbeitungsschritt die folgenden aufeinanderfolgenden Vorgänge umfasst:
    - Aufbringen einer Schicht aus lichtempfindlichem Harz (32) auf eine Oberfläche des Substrats (30),
    - Exponieren mindestens eines Teils der Substratoberfläche (30) gegenüber einer Lichtquelle für einen vorbestimmten Zeitraum, um einen oder mehrere Teile zu definieren, die von der Oberfläche zu bearbeiten sind,
    - Auflösen der lichtempfindlichen Harzschicht (32) auf dem Teil oder den Teilen, die von der Oberfläche zu bearbeiten sind,
    - elektrochemisches Bearbeiten des Teils oder der Teile, die von der Oberfläche zu bearbeiten sind, wobei dieser Vorgang durch elektrochemisches Polieren des Teils oder der Teile, die von der Oberfläche zu bearbeiten sind, abgeschlossen wird,
    - Entfernen der Restschicht des lichtempfindlichen Harzes (32).
  6. Verfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 5, wobei der Bearbeitungsschritt durch mechanische Bearbeitung durchgeführt wird.
  7. Verfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 6, wobei der Bearbeitungsschritt durch Guillochierung durchgeführt wird.
  8. Verfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 7, wobei das Werkstück (11) in dem Werkzeughalter (13) angetrieben wird.
  9. Verfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 8, wobei das Substrat (30) aus Stahl, Kupfer oder dessen Legierungen, aus Aluminium oder aus Platin-, Silber- oder Goldlegierungen besteht.
  10. Verfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 9, wobei der Bearbeitungsschritt derart durchgeführt wird, dass der Referenzplattenabschnitt (31) mit einer hochglanzpolierten Oberfläche aus der Mehrzahl von Streifen besteht, die Segmente mit einer hochglanzpolierten Oberfläche bilden.
EP22172493.3A 2022-05-09 2022-05-10 Verfahren zur herstellung eines schlagwerkzeugs für die herstellung eines zierteils für schmuck, juwelierwaren oder uhren Active EP4276547B1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CH000545/2022A CH719677A2 (fr) 2022-05-09 2022-05-09 Procédé de réalisation d'un outil de frappe pour la fabrication d'un composant d'habillage de bijouterie, de joaillerie ou d'horlogerie.

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP4276547A1 EP4276547A1 (de) 2023-11-15
EP4276547B1 true EP4276547B1 (de) 2026-01-07

Family

ID=88294953

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP22172493.3A Active EP4276547B1 (de) 2022-05-09 2022-05-10 Verfahren zur herstellung eines schlagwerkzeugs für die herstellung eines zierteils für schmuck, juwelierwaren oder uhren

Country Status (2)

Country Link
EP (1) EP4276547B1 (de)
CH (1) CH719677A2 (de)

Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP3266738B1 (de) * 2016-07-06 2019-03-06 The Swatch Group Research and Development Ltd. Herstellungsverfahren für ein uhrenbauteil, das mit einer mehrstufigen habillage ausgestattet ist

Family Cites Families (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CH699783B1 (fr) * 2008-10-21 2018-12-14 Swatch Group Res & Dev Ltd Procédé de fabrication d'une platine de montre.
CH710583A2 (fr) * 2014-12-23 2016-06-30 Swatch Group Res & Dev Ltd Procédé de fabrication d'un cadran d'affichage transparent pour un objet portable tel qu'une pièce d'horlogerie et cadran ainsi obtenu.
US20200101788A1 (en) * 2018-09-27 2020-04-02 Junji John Shimazaki Method and apparatus for hand-replicating embossed metal artwork
CN209189590U (zh) * 2018-10-24 2019-08-02 瑞金市时高乐精密五金制品有限公司 一种精密五金制品用表盘冲压装置

Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP3266738B1 (de) * 2016-07-06 2019-03-06 The Swatch Group Research and Development Ltd. Herstellungsverfahren für ein uhrenbauteil, das mit einer mehrstufigen habillage ausgestattet ist

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP4276547A1 (de) 2023-11-15
CH719677A2 (fr) 2023-11-15

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