EP4276547A1 - Verfahren zur herstellung eines schlagwerkzeugs für die herstellung eines zierteils für schmuck, juwelierwaren oder uhren - Google Patents

Verfahren zur herstellung eines schlagwerkzeugs für die herstellung eines zierteils für schmuck, juwelierwaren oder uhren Download PDF

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Publication number
EP4276547A1
EP4276547A1 EP22172493.3A EP22172493A EP4276547A1 EP 4276547 A1 EP4276547 A1 EP 4276547A1 EP 22172493 A EP22172493 A EP 22172493A EP 4276547 A1 EP4276547 A1 EP 4276547A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
substrate
machining
carried out
jewelry
striking
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP22172493.3A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Pierre SAURET
Giovanni POLY
Corina BARBOS
Gregory Kissling
Frédéric Jeanrenaud
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Omega SA
Original Assignee
Omega SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Omega SA filed Critical Omega SA
Publication of EP4276547A1 publication Critical patent/EP4276547A1/de
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B37/00—Cases
    • G04B37/22—Materials or processes of manufacturing pocket watch or wrist watch cases
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04D—APPARATUS OR TOOLS SPECIALLY DESIGNED FOR MAKING OR MAINTAINING CLOCKS OR WATCHES
    • G04D3/00—Watchmakers' or watch-repairers' machines or tools for working materials
    • G04D3/0002—Watchmakers' or watch-repairers' machines or tools for working materials for mechanical working other than with a lathe
    • G04D3/0043—Watchmakers' or watch-repairers' machines or tools for working materials for mechanical working other than with a lathe for components of the time-indicating mechanisms
    • G04D3/0048—Watchmakers' or watch-repairers' machines or tools for working materials for mechanical working other than with a lathe for components of the time-indicating mechanisms for dials
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C27/00—Making jewellery or other personal adornments
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B44—DECORATIVE ARTS
    • B44B—MACHINES, APPARATUS OR TOOLS FOR ARTISTIC WORK, e.g. FOR SCULPTURING, GUILLOCHING, CARVING, BRANDING, INLAYING
    • B44B5/00—Machines or apparatus for embossing decorations or marks, e.g. embossing coins
    • B44B5/02—Dies; Accessories
    • B44B5/026—Dies
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B19/00—Indicating the time by visual means
    • G04B19/06—Dials
    • G04B19/10—Ornamental shape of the graduations or the surface of the dial; Attachment of the graduations to the dial
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04D—APPARATUS OR TOOLS SPECIALLY DESIGNED FOR MAKING OR MAINTAINING CLOCKS OR WATCHES
    • G04D3/00—Watchmakers' or watch-repairers' machines or tools for working materials
    • G04D3/0002—Watchmakers' or watch-repairers' machines or tools for working materials for mechanical working other than with a lathe
    • G04D3/0061—Watchmakers' or watch-repairers' machines or tools for working materials for mechanical working other than with a lathe for components for protecting the mechanism against external influences
    • G04D3/0064—Watchmakers' or watch-repairers' machines or tools for working materials for mechanical working other than with a lathe for components for protecting the mechanism against external influences for cases

Definitions

  • the invention relates to the field of tools for the production of covering components, and in particular relates to a method for producing a striking tool for the manufacture of a covering component for jewelry, jewelry or watchmaking.
  • a covering component for example the dial
  • the guilloché pattern of the dial makes it possible to obtain very varied and complex relief decorations presenting a very high level of reflection, and therefore a very sought-after aesthetic appearance.
  • guilloché work done by hand is difficult to repeat, relatively long and expensive to produce.
  • watches can include complications showing animations, such as moon phases, tourbillons, automatons, roller displays of a time indication, etc.
  • animations such as moon phases, tourbillons, automatons, roller displays of a time indication, etc.
  • the present invention therefore proposes to respond to the need to provide a decoration on a covering component having significant aesthetic appeal while being simple, quick and inexpensive to manufacture.
  • the invention may also include one or more of the following characteristics, taken individually or in all technically possible combinations.
  • the step of generating a part is carried out by deposition of material.
  • the step of Generation of a part is carried out by galvanic growth of nickel.
  • the step of generating a part is carried out by hot pressing of an amorphous metal.
  • the amorphous metal can be an alloy having good hot forming ability, such as the metals usually designated by Vit106a or LM1b.
  • the machining step is carried out so that the reference surface portion having a mirror polished surface state is constituted at least by a plurality of grooves forming segments and having a state of mirror polished surface.
  • the machining step is carried out by mechanical machining.
  • the machining step is carried out by guilloché work.
  • the part is driven into the tool holder.
  • the substrate is made of steel, copper, copper alloy, aluminum or alloys of platinum, silver or gold.
  • the present invention relates to a method of manufacturing a jewelry, jewelry or watchmaking component comprising a preliminary step of mirror polishing of a covering surface of a blank, followed by 'a step of stamping the covering surface of said blank by striking with the interface surface of the striking tool obtained by the method as previously described.
  • the blank is made of copper, of a copper alloy, of aluminum, of steel, of a platinum, gold or silver alloy, or of an amorphous metal alloy.
  • FIG 1 schematically represents a first step of a process for producing a striking tool 10 intended to be used for the manufacture of a covering component 20 in the field of jewelry, jewelry or watchmaking. Such a component is visible schematically on the Figure 5 in section view.
  • the first step of the method according to the invention is a step of machining a surface of a substrate 30, in order to obtain a surface called a “reference surface” 31, so as to obtain a three-dimensional shape, for example generally concave. corresponding to a predefined decor.
  • machining designates any action of removing material from a raw part.
  • shape is understood as defining the general shape of the decoration, and may include one or more raised and/or hollow reliefs.
  • this machining step at least a portion of the machined surface of the substrate is polished so that the reference surface 31 has, over all or part of its surface, a mirror polished surface state.
  • the objective of this step is to obtain a decoration identical to that which is intended to be formed by striking on the covering component 20, as shown in the figures 1 and 5 .
  • the substrate 30 is advantageously made of steel, copper or a copper alloy, aluminum or precious metal alloys, such as a platinum, silver or gold alloy.
  • the method according to the invention subsequently comprises a step of generating a part 11 on the reference surface 31 of the substrate 30.
  • This step is carried out so that an interface surface 12 of the part 11 with the substrate 30 rests at every point against the reference surface 31 in order to closely match its shape, as illustrated in the figure 2 .
  • any point of the interface surface 12 in other words any part of the interface surface 12, presents a surface condition identical to that of the reference surface 31 with which it is opposite.
  • the interface surface 12 of the part 11 thus obtained has a three-dimensional shape, for example generally convex, corresponding to the inverse of the predefined decoration produced on the substrate 30.
  • the interface surface 12 of the part 11 therefore has at least a portion whose surface condition is mirror polished.
  • the part 11 is then installed in a tool holder 13 so as to constitute a striking tool 10 for stamping a decoration on a blank 40 of a covering component 20, as schematically represented on the Figure 3 .
  • the part 11 and the tool holder 13 form an upper matrix intended to produce a decoration on the blank 40.
  • the part 11 is preferentially driven into a cavity of the tool holder 13, but it can also be fixed to the tool holder 13 by any other appropriate means, such as with a layer of glue or mechanical position holding means.
  • a striking tool 10 adapted to produce a covering component 20, on the one hand, having a particularly attractive appearance insofar as the striking tool 10 can reproduce on said covering component 20 a very rich and complex decoration, the surface state of which can be very varied, and on the other hand, in an easily repeatable and inexpensive manner, the production quality of which is constant and with industrial production rates.
  • the striking tool 10 obtained thanks to the method according to the invention makes it possible to replicate in an industrial manner, on cladding components, decorations whose level of quality and complexity is very high, typical of work manual decoration, for example guilloché operations. More generally, the strike tool 10 makes it possible to reproduce, in an identical manner, easily and quickly on a covering component, a complex decoration produced on the substrate 30.
  • the step of machining a surface of the substrate 30 in order to obtain the reference surface 31, can thus advantageously be carried out by guilloché, as described previously, by mechanical machining, by electroerosion or by any other technique for removing material, the present invention having the advantage of allowing the use of expensive and time-consuming machining techniques to the extent that only the substrate 30 is machined and not each covering component to be produced.
  • the machining step is carried out so that the portion(s) of the reference surface 31 having a mirror polished surface state are constituted at least by a plurality of striations forming segments extending in rectilinear or curved directions, parallel to each other or not.
  • the covering component 20 manufactured from the striking tool 10 can reflect the incident light in different ways depending on the orientation of the covering component 20, which is likely to cause an evolution of the the appearance of the decor that it includes according to the orientation of the user's viewing angle.
  • the step of generating a part 11 is carried out by deposition of material, and more particularly by galvanic growth of nickel.
  • This method of material deposition has the advantage of allowing very high fidelity of shape reproduction of the reference surface 31 by the shape of the interface surface 12 of the part 11 formed by the deposition of material, in addition to allow easy separation of said part 11 from the substrate 30.
  • Another advantage of this method of depositing material lies in the fact that the nickel thus deposited is suitable for constituting the material of a striking tool 10.
  • the step of generating a part 11 can be carried out by hot pressing an amorphous metal on the reference surface 31 of the substrate 11.
  • This method has the advantage of being rapid and also allows very large fidelity of reproduction of the shape of the reference surface 31 by the shape of the interface surface 12 of the part 11.
  • the amorphous metal is suitable for constituting the material of the striking tool.
  • the present invention also relates to a method of manufacturing a jewelry, jewelry or watchmaking component 20 implemented with the striking tool 10 previously described.
  • a covering component 20 visible on the Figure 5 , is for example made from a blank 40 made of copper or a copper alloy, aluminum, steel, a platinum, gold or silver alloy or an amorphous metal alloy. These materials are particularly suitable for being deformed by stamping and for reproducing with great fidelity the shape of the interface surface 12 of the striking tool 10.
  • the method of manufacturing the covering component 20 comprises a preliminary step of mirror polishing of a covering surface 41 of the blank 40 of the covering component 20.
  • the covering surface 41 is, in the present text, a surface of the covering component 20 intended to be visible to a user.
  • the mirror polishing step is followed by a step of stamping the covering surface 41 of said blank 40 by striking with the interface surface 12 of the striking tool 10 in order to form on said surface covering 41 a three-dimensional decoration corresponding to the complementary shape, that is to say the opposite shape, of that of the decoration presented by the striking tool 10.
  • This stamping step is carried out by a strike whose force is for example between 50 kN and 700 kN, and more particularly between 250 kN and 300 kN.
  • the blank 40 of the covering component 20 is held in position by a lower die (not shown in the figures), in a manner known to those skilled in the art, in order to be able to absorb the forces applied by the striking tool 10 and to be able to deform properly at the level of its covering surface 41, during the stamping step.
  • the stamping step allows a reproduction of the shape of the interface surface 12 of the striking tool 10, but also of its different surface states, on the micrometric or submicrometric scale.
  • the surface condition of the covering surface 41 therefore corresponds to that of the interface surface 12.
  • the invention can, in particular, advantageously be applied to the field of watchmaking and relate to a method of producing a striking tool 10 for the manufacture of a dial, and a method of manufacturing a dial with such striking tool 10.

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  • Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • General Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
  • Adornments (AREA)
EP22172493.3A 2022-05-09 2022-05-10 Verfahren zur herstellung eines schlagwerkzeugs für die herstellung eines zierteils für schmuck, juwelierwaren oder uhren Pending EP4276547A1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CH000545/2022A CH719677A2 (fr) 2022-05-09 2022-05-09 Procédé de réalisation d'un outil de frappe pour la fabrication d'un composant d'habillage de bijouterie, de joaillerie ou d'horlogerie.

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP4276547A1 true EP4276547A1 (de) 2023-11-15

Family

ID=88294953

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP22172493.3A Pending EP4276547A1 (de) 2022-05-09 2022-05-10 Verfahren zur herstellung eines schlagwerkzeugs für die herstellung eines zierteils für schmuck, juwelierwaren oder uhren

Country Status (2)

Country Link
EP (1) EP4276547A1 (de)
CH (1) CH719677A2 (de)

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CH699783A2 (fr) * 2008-10-21 2010-04-30 Swatch Group Res & Dev Ltd Procede de fabrication d'une platine de montre.
CH710583A2 (fr) * 2014-12-23 2016-06-30 Swatch Group Res & Dev Ltd Procédé de fabrication d'un cadran d'affichage transparent pour un objet portable tel qu'une pièce d'horlogerie et cadran ainsi obtenu.
CN209189590U (zh) * 2018-10-24 2019-08-02 瑞金市时高乐精密五金制品有限公司 一种精密五金制品用表盘冲压装置
US20200101788A1 (en) * 2018-09-27 2020-04-02 Junji John Shimazaki Method and apparatus for hand-replicating embossed metal artwork

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CH699783A2 (fr) * 2008-10-21 2010-04-30 Swatch Group Res & Dev Ltd Procede de fabrication d'une platine de montre.
CH710583A2 (fr) * 2014-12-23 2016-06-30 Swatch Group Res & Dev Ltd Procédé de fabrication d'un cadran d'affichage transparent pour un objet portable tel qu'une pièce d'horlogerie et cadran ainsi obtenu.
US20200101788A1 (en) * 2018-09-27 2020-04-02 Junji John Shimazaki Method and apparatus for hand-replicating embossed metal artwork
CN209189590U (zh) * 2018-10-24 2019-08-02 瑞金市时高乐精密五金制品有限公司 一种精密五金制品用表盘冲压装置

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Publication number Publication date
CH719677A2 (fr) 2023-11-15

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