EP4151788A1 - Verfahren zur herstellung eines fertigen textilartikels - Google Patents

Verfahren zur herstellung eines fertigen textilartikels Download PDF

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Publication number
EP4151788A1
EP4151788A1 EP22194907.6A EP22194907A EP4151788A1 EP 4151788 A1 EP4151788 A1 EP 4151788A1 EP 22194907 A EP22194907 A EP 22194907A EP 4151788 A1 EP4151788 A1 EP 4151788A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
woven fabric
desired structure
pattern pieces
woven
pieces
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP22194907.6A
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English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Sarah Franziska Brunnhuber
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Stem
Original Assignee
Stem
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Stem filed Critical Stem
Publication of EP4151788A1 publication Critical patent/EP4151788A1/de
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03C—SHEDDING MECHANISMS; PATTERN CARDS OR CHAINS; PUNCHING OF CARDS; DESIGNING PATTERNS
    • D03C19/00—Methods or devices concerned with designing or making patterns, not provided for in other groups of this subclass
    • D03C19/005—Electronic

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a method of making a finished textile article from individual pattern pieces of woven fabric as described in claim 1.
  • a loom is a device used to weave fabric.
  • the basic purpose of any loom is to hold threads under tension to facilitate the interweaving of other threads.
  • the threads under tension are called the warp and the threads being interweaved between the threads of the warp are called the weft.
  • the warp threads are normally the threads going in the vertical direction and the weft threads are normally the threads going in horizontal direction
  • Another object of the invention is to provide an alternative solution.
  • the spaces between the individual pattern pieces of woven fabric having the desired structure can be woven so that they have a lower density than the density of the individual pattern pieces of woven fabric having the desired structure.
  • the invention will thus cause less waste, as the fabric that is free-cut according to the invention simply has a lower density than corresponding free-cut fabric in the known technique.
  • the areas with pattern pieces of woven fabric having the desired structure should be arranged (located) on the woven fabric pieces in such a way that all weft threads and all warp threads pass through at least one pattern piece of woven fabric having the desired structure.
  • all pattern pieces must be placed in such a way that the total area of low density is minimized as much as possible. This naturally causes the individual warp and weft threads to often pass through several individual areas of low density (pattern pieces of woven fabric having the desired structure).
  • all the pattern pieces of woven fabric having the desired structure on such a piece of woven fabric can be separated from each other in a simple manner.
  • the method comprises following step; cutting off the selvedge (the border) of the one or more woven fabrics containing the pattern pieces of woven fabric with the desired structure and further cutting all the individual warp threads and/or all the weft threads that connect any pattern piece of woven fabric with the desired structure to another pattern piece of woven fabric with the desired structure, the cutting of the individual warp and weft threads must (preferably) only be done once, and the cut shall be made between the pattern pieces of woven fabric having the desired structure through which the individual weft and warp threads pass.
  • edges of the woven fabric are usually formed by passing the horizontal weft thread over or under an outermost warp thread, after which the direction is reversed, and the weft thread is brought back on the opposite side of the outermost warp thread. Thereby, the two threads will be "locked” to each other at the edges of the woven fabric. By cutting the edges of the woven fabric, this lock is destroyed and thereby all weft and warp threads can be untangled, regardless of whether they are connected to pattern pieces of woven fabric having the desired structure.
  • all pattern pieces are placed on a woven fabric such that all the weft and the warp threads are connected to at least one pattern piece of woven fabric having the desired structure. If this first criterion is fulfilled and no weft thread or warp thread is interconnecting any pattern pieces of woven fabric having the desired structure, then all the pattern pieces of woven fabric having the desired structure on said woven fabric will be released (by untangling) from each other by simply cutting off the selvedge.
  • the woven fabric is made such that it contains several pattern pieces of woven fabric having the desired structure that are connected directly (not via the edges) by warp and/or weft threads that pass through one pattern piece of woven fabric having the desired structure and further through another pattern piece of woven fabric having the desired structure.
  • This connection may or may not (In case the two pattern pieces of woven fabric having the desired structure touch each other) be through an area having smaller density.
  • the individual pattern pieces of woven fabric having the desired structure may be released from each other by cutting all the individual warp and weft threads that connect the individual pattern pieces of woven fabric having the desired structure, the cutting shall be made between the individual pattern pieces of woven fabric having the desired structure and provided that only the weft and warp threads that are connecting pattern pieces of woven fabric having the desired structure are cut and further that they are only cut once, the thereby cut weft and warp threads will still be connected (attached) to a pattern piece of woven fabric having the desired structure.
  • the actual separation of the pattern pieces of woven fabric having the desired structure subsequently takes place by untangling these still connected weft and warp threads. To facilitate untangling, these areas are therefore woven with a loose structure and preferably with structure adapted such that the untangling can be done by hand or machine power.
  • the areas/pieces between the pattern pieces of woven fabric having the desired structure are woven with a density adapted so that the wefts and warps in these pieces can be untangled, preferably by hand.
  • This - of course also includes the scenario where the areas between the pattern pieces of woven fabric having the desired structure are not woven at all.
  • the actual adaptation of the densities so that the woven fabric is not deformed so much that weaving becomes impossible and such that the weft treads and warp thread can be untangled can be done by computer simulation or by carrying out tests where the density (the structure of the weaving) in the areas outside the pattern pieces of woven fabric having the desired structure ( ie the low density regions) are raised and/or lowered until untangling is possible by hand or machine and the weaving of the different density regions can take place simultaneously. The parameters found in this way are then used in the subsequent weaving of several pieces of clothing.
  • the finished textile object is formed by assembling individual pattern pieces of woven fabric having the desired structure that are cut out from two or more pieces of woven fabric.
  • the finished article of textile is made solely of individual pattern pieces of woven fabric having the desired structure, woven on programmable looms that produce woven fabric made such that the individual pattern pieces of woven fabric having the desired structure are woven with their desired structure, while the space (s) between the individual pattern pieces of woven fabric having the desired structure is woven with a different structure having a smaller average density than the average density of the individual pattern pieces of the woven fabric having the desired structure.
  • a loom is a device used to weave fabric.
  • the basic purpose of any loom is to hold threads under tension to facilitate the interweaving of other threads.
  • the threads under tension is called the warp and the threads being interweaved between the warp is called the weft.
  • the placement of the individual pattern pieces, in order to minimize waste, is by an embodiment of the invention made digitally.
  • the incorporating of a structure 4 with a lesser density (loosely weaved) in the design and applying a specific cutting technique to production the waste can be reduced even further.
  • Incorporating a loose weave structure in the design and applying a specific cutting technique to production may even eliminate the waste associated with separating the pattern pieces having the desired structure
  • FIG. 1 An example of how individual pattern pieces of woven fabric having the desired structure could be placed on a woven fabric is shown in figure 1 .
  • a woven fabric 1 containing areas of different structures 3, 4, 5.
  • the white areas in figure 1 are individual pattern pieces of woven fabric having the desired structure, which are to be joined together and thereby form a finished piece of textile, or a part thereof.
  • the fabric 1 is made by use of a conventional programmable loom capable of weaving a fabric containing areas of different structures.
  • all the areas to be used for the finished textile would be woven with a density corresponding to the density of the area 4 between these individual pattern pieces of woven fabric having the desired structure.
  • the areas 4 between the individual pattern pieces of woven fabric having the desired structure 3, 2, 5 are woven with an average density lower than the average density of the individual pattern pieces of woven fabric having the desired structure 2, 3, 5 to be assembled to form part - or all - of a finished piece of textile.
  • the individual pattern pieces of woven fabric having the desired structure are woven directly on the loom and the space 4 in between is woven with a density lower than the density of the individual pattern pieces of woven fabric having the desired structure.
  • the loss of fabric using the invention is less than the loss using conventional techniques where the areas between the individual pattern pieces of woven fabric having the desired structure are woven with a higher density, viz. a density substantially equal to the density of the individual pattern pieces of woven fabric having the desired structure.
  • the density of the loose weave structure in between the individual pattern pieces of woven fabric needs to be loose enough to be able to be taken apart in (after) the cutting process in an efficient way, and tight enough to keep a balanced tension on the loom.
  • the loose structures may in all embodiments of the invention be woven such that the loose structures can be untangled by hand or machine.
  • the density of the loosely woven structure in these areas has a direct link to the material used. Its strength and thickness. A strong thick yarn would be able to operate at a higher number of lifted warp thread than a thin delicate yarn.
  • FIG 3 a woven fabric 1 where the individual pattern pieces of woven fabric having a desired structure are woven directly on the woven fabric 1.
  • the areas between the individual pattern pieces of woven fabric with the desired structure (the black areas) 10, 11, 12 are relatively small in relation to the size of the individual pattern pieces of woven fabric with the desired structure (the white areas).
  • This efficient utilization of the woven fabric 1 is achieved by means of computers that have calculated how the individual pattern pieces of woven fabric with the desired structure should be placed on the woven fabric 1.
  • several of the areas between the individual pattern pieces of woven fabric with the desired structure are delimited areas.
  • FIG 4 shows a pair of trousers 50 made according to an embodiment of the invention.
  • the trousers are assembled from induvial pattern pieces. Fringes 30, 31 are protruding in different places from the seams 33. These fringes are weft and warp threads originating from the loose woven.
  • the invention relates to a method of making a finished article of textile having fringes.
  • This method involves the steps of: weaving a woven fabric where the individual pattern pieces of woven fabric having the desired structure are placed adjacent or separated by areas of (loosely woven) fabric having a lower average density than the adjacent individual pattern pieces of woven fabric having the desired structure, the individual pattern pieces of woven fabric having the desired structure further being placed on the fabric such that they can be released from the woven fabric by cutting without releasing any yarn; cutting free the individual pattern pieces of woven fabric having the desired structure without releasing any yarn; assembling the individual pattern pieces of woven fabric having the desired structure such that they form the finished article (having fringes protruding from the joints).
  • the invention in this embodiment entails a production of finished articles of textile with a very low waste of material and under ideal conditions even zero waste production.
  • the finished textile is made of pieces of woven fabric from two pieces of woven fabric. At least one of the woven fabrics being woven such that individual pattern pieces of woven fabric are woven with their desired structure while at least some of the space between these individual pattern pieces of woven fabric is woven with a different structure having a smaller density than the density of their neighboring individual pattern pieces of woven fabric woven with their desired structure.
  • the finished piece of textile is made from individual pattern pieces of woven fabric, woven such that the individual pattern pieces of woven fabric are woven with their desired structure, while the space (s) between individual pattern pieces of woven fabric is woven with a different structure having a smaller density than the density of the individual pattern pieces of woven fabric.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
EP22194907.6A 2021-09-09 2022-09-09 Verfahren zur herstellung eines fertigen textilartikels Withdrawn EP4151788A1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DKPA202100873 2021-09-09

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP4151788A1 true EP4151788A1 (de) 2023-03-22

Family

ID=83271661

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP22194907.6A Withdrawn EP4151788A1 (de) 2021-09-09 2022-09-09 Verfahren zur herstellung eines fertigen textilartikels

Country Status (1)

Country Link
EP (1) EP4151788A1 (de)

Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0387766A1 (de) * 1989-03-16 1990-09-19 LONATI S.p.A. Verfahren zur Herstellung von Halbprodukten mit Rundstrickmaschinen, insbesondere zur Herstellung von Unterhemden, Hemdhosen und dergleichen
WO2008099830A1 (ja) * 2007-02-13 2008-08-21 Kabushiki Kaisha Miyake Design Jimusho 着色織布
US20200048826A1 (en) * 2014-08-27 2020-02-13 Revolaze, LLC System and method of generating a pattern or image on fabric with linear laser irradiation, fabric made by said method, and products made with said fabric

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0387766A1 (de) * 1989-03-16 1990-09-19 LONATI S.p.A. Verfahren zur Herstellung von Halbprodukten mit Rundstrickmaschinen, insbesondere zur Herstellung von Unterhemden, Hemdhosen und dergleichen
WO2008099830A1 (ja) * 2007-02-13 2008-08-21 Kabushiki Kaisha Miyake Design Jimusho 着色織布
US20200048826A1 (en) * 2014-08-27 2020-02-13 Revolaze, LLC System and method of generating a pattern or image on fabric with linear laser irradiation, fabric made by said method, and products made with said fabric

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