Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
  • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
  • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
  • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/001—Preparations for care of the lips
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
  • A61K2800/591—Mixtures of compounds not provided for by any of the codes A61K2800/592 - A61K2800/596

Definitions

• Cosmetic composition comprising extracts of pomegranate and peony
• the present invention relates to the field of cosmetics. It relates in particular to the particular combination of an oily extract of pomegranate and an oily extract of peony intended to improve the comfort, emollience and hydration of the surface of keratin materials, and to prevent and / or reduce loss. volume and firmness of the skin and / or the lips, and in particular the lips.
• the skin is the body's first protective barrier vis-à-vis the environment.
• the skin and lips are thus daily subjected to factors of external or internal origin liable to weaken the skin barrier, promote dehydration of the skin and lips and alter their aesthetic appearance.
• the skin of the face and even more so the lips are a part of the body that is particularly sensitive to water loss.
• Good hydration of the skin and lips is essential for comfort, which influences in particular the sensitivity to touch (Effect of hydration on the tactile and thermal sensitivity of the lip, S. Guest, Physiology & Behavior 123 (2014), 127-135 ).
• the Applicant has demonstrated the in vitro effects of a combination of extracts combining a pomegranate extract and a peony extract, in particular an oily extract of pomegranate flowers and an oily extract of peony flowers.
• This combination of plant extracts makes it possible in particular to modulate the expression of certain genes whose function is linked to hydration, firmness and strengthening of the skin barrier.
• this combination of extracts as a cosmetic active ingredient to promote and / or stimulate the hydration and / or the nutrition of keratin materials, preferably of the skin and / or of the lips, and / or to prevent and / or reduce the loss of volume, the loss of firmness, the loss of elasticity, the reduction in the thickness of the skin and / or the deterioration of the barrier function of the skin and / or the lips.
• the first subject of the invention relates to a cosmetic composition
• a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an extract of pomegranate and a peony extract, preferably an extract of pomegranate flowers and an extract of peony flowers.
• the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, comprising the application to said keratin materials of at least one layer of a cosmetic composition. according to the invention.
• keratin materials means the skin and / or its integuments, and the lips. In particular, it will be the skin of the face, neck and / or body, and lips.
• the cosmetic process of the invention is intended in particular to promote and / or stimulate the hydration and / or the nutrition of keratin materials, preferably of the skin and / or of the lips, and / or to prevent and / or reduce the loss of volume, loss of firmness, loss of elasticity, reduction in skin thickness and / or impairment of the barrier function of the skin and / or lips.
• the present invention also relates to the cosmetic use of a combination of plant extracts according to the invention, in particular the combination of at least one extract of pomegranate flowers in jojoba oil, and an extract of peony flowers in sweet almond oil, as a combination of active ingredients to promote and / or stimulate hydration and / or nutrition of keratin materials, preferably of the skin and / or lips, and / or prevent and / or reduce the loss of volume, loss of firmness, loss of elasticity, reduction in the thickness of the skin and / or lips and / or alteration of the barrier function of the skin and / or lips.
• FIG. 1 is a graph representing the expression of Aquaporin 3 (AQP3) in control condition or in the presence of the extracts of the invention (intensity of labeling / cell).
• FIG. 2 is a graph representing the expression of Nidogen under control condition or in the presence of the extracts of the invention (intensity of labeling / cell).
• Figure 3 is a graph showing the expression of Procollagen 1 in control condition or in the presence of extracts of the invention (intensity of labeling / cell).
• FIG. 4 is a graph showing the expression of fibronectin in control condition or in the presence of extracts of the invention (intensity of labeling / cell). DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION Plant extracts according to the invention
• the present invention relates to a combination of plant extracts, in particular the combination of a pomegranate extract and a peony extract.
• extract is generally meant an isolated substance, obtained by extraction from a plant raw material, and which does not pre-exist in nature as such.
• the plant extracts are used according to the invention in cosmetic compositions, in the form of a solution or concentrate, otherwise known as “product containing said extract”, the solvent of the concentrate possibly being the extraction solvent and / or a additional solvent.
• product containing said extract the solvent of the concentrate possibly being the extraction solvent and / or a additional solvent.
• the extracts illustrated in the examples of compositions are thus in the form of a solution.
• plants, or plants in general can produce numerous substances of cosmetic interest.
• these substances of interest may be present in different parts or different organs of said plant, in particular in the seeds, roots, bulbs, stems, leaves, petals, flowers, flowering tops, or even in the whole plant.
• the different extracts in particular the extracts seeds, roots, bulbs, stems, leaves, petals, flowers, flowering tops will have different active molecule compositions and will thus have complementary cosmetic properties, even synergistic.
• each of the plant extracts is obtained from a part of said plant chosen from the group consisting of seeds, roots, bulbs, stems, leaves, petals, flowers , flowering tops, whole plant, and mixtures thereof.
• each of the plant extracts is obtained from a part of said plant chosen from the group consisting of petals, flowers, flowering tops and their mixtures, preferably the plant extracts of the invention are obtained from flowers and / or flower petals.
• the invention relates to the combination of an extract of pomegranate flowers and an extract of peony flowers.
• each of the plant extracts of the invention is an "oily extract".
• “oily extract” according to the invention is meant an extract comprising non-volatile compounds.
• the plant extracts of the invention are distinct from an "essential oil” consisting for its part of volatile compounds.
• An essential oil is in fact obtained by extracting or distilling volatile molecules from plant material (eg terpenoids, aromatic molecules).
• Eco-extraction we mean an extraction process that reduces energy consumption, but also the use of alternative solvents and renewable plant resources, while ensuring a safe and quality product / extract.
• Eco-extraction favors 6 main principles (Farid Chemat, Dunod, 2010, Eco-Extraction of the plant):
• the green solvent will advantageously be used: water or a vegetable oil.
• the invention relates to the combination of an oily extract of pomegranate flowers and an oily extract of peony flowers, said oily extracts preferably being obtained by means of extraction processes. described below.
• the present invention uses an extract of pomegranate, preferably an extract of pomegranate of the species Punica granatum, a fruit tree of the Lythraceae family, native to western Asia, and cultivated in the tropics and subtropics.
• the pomegranates used to obtain the plant extracts are preferably ofixie origin.
• the plant extract of pomegranate is obtained from a part of said plant chosen from the group consisting of seeds, roots, bulbs, stems, leaves, petals, flowers, flowering tops, plant whole, and their mixtures.
• said extract of pomegranate, Punica granatum is an extract of flowers with the INCI name (International Nomenclature Cosmetics Ingredients): Punica granatum flower extract.
• said pomegranate extract is obtained by oily extraction according to the patented Oleo-eco-extraction process, in particular described in European patent EP2413706 (B1).
• this process allows the extraction of non-volatile natural compounds contained in pomegranate flowers using a natural fatty substance, in particular a vegetable oil or wax and preferably a jojoba wax, without the use of organic solvent and without chemical transformation.
• said pomegranate extract used in the present invention, is obtained by an extraction process comprising at least the steps of: a) mixing and impregnation of the solid raw material, preferably pomegranate flowers, in dispersible form with the natural fatty substance, preferably jojoba wax, at a temperature above the melting point of said fatty substance and in an atmosphere devoid or essentially devoid of oxygen, b) heating to a temperature between 80 and 200 ° C for a period of less than or equal to 10 min and in an atmosphere devoid of or essentially devoid of oxygen, using microwaves, c) microdispersion of the material to be extracted and optionally of rupture of the cells of the raw material in said natural fatty substance at a temperature above the melting point of the fatty substance and in an atmosphere devoid of or essentially devoid of oxygen, in use sant ultrasound, step c) can be carried out before, during or after step b).
• the pomegranate flowers are crushed beforehand, preferably crushed at low temperature, for example between -20 and - 80 ° C.
• the crushing at low temperature advantageously makes it possible to preserve the active molecules contained in the plant material.
• said pomegranate extract used in the invention is preferably an oily extract of pomegranate flowers and more preferably an extract of pomegranate flowers in jojoba wax.
• pomegranate flowers are rich in polyphenols, in particular ellagic acid and anthocyanins, antioxidant molecules.
• liquid jojoba wax has a composition close to that of cutaneous sebum, it is composed of 98% C20: 1 esters which have a strong affinity with the lipids of the epidermal intercellular cement.
• the use of extract of pomegranate flowers in jojoba wax is therefore particularly advantageous for the implementation of the cosmetic processes of the invention, this extract in particular promotes hydration, emollience and participates in the restructuring properties of the skin (firmness, elasticity).
• the pomegranate extract used in the present invention is the product marketed under the name “Plump Oléoactif®” by the company Oléos.
• the product “Plump Oléoactif®” is referenced under the international nomenclature, INCI: Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil (and) Punica Granatum Flower Extract (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate.
• the pomegranate extract is present in the cosmetic composition of the invention in an amount effective to obtain the desired effect.
• said pomegranate extract preferably the product marketed under the name “Plump Oléoactif®”, is present in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 10%, in particular from 0.0005% to 5%, preferably from 0.001% to 1%, more preferably from 0.005% to 0.5%; more preferably from 0.01% to 0.4% or even from 0.05% to 0.3% by weight of raw material (weight of product) relative to the total weight of the composition.
• Peony extract The present invention uses a peony extract, preferably an extract of officinal peony of the species Paeonia officinalis, a herbaceous plant native to southern and central Europe.
• the peonies used to obtain the plant extracts are preferably of French origin.
• the peony plant extract is obtained from a part of said plant chosen from the group consisting of seeds, roots, bulbs, stems, leaves, petals, flowers, flowering tops, plant whole, and their mixtures.
• said extract of peony, Paeonia officinalis is a flower extract (INCI name: Paeonia officinalis flower extract).
• said peony extract is obtained by maceration in sweet almond oil.
• said sweet almond oil is obtained by a process comprising the steps of: a) Cold pressing of the sweet almonds, b) Decoloration of the virgin oil on neutral earth, and c) Deodorization of virgin oil with water vapor.
• the sweet almond oil obtained is a refined sweet almond oil.
• said peony extract used in the present invention, is obtained by an extraction process comprising the steps of: a) Cold pressing of the sweet almonds, b) Decoloration of the virgin oil on neutral earth, c) Deodorization of virgin oil with water vapor, and d) Maceration of the peony plant material in refined sweet almond oil obtained at the end of step c).
• the plant materials preferably the flowers and more preferably the peony petals, are left to dry prior to maceration in said sweet almond oil.
• said peony extract used in the invention, is preferably an oily extract of peony flowers and more preferably an extract of peony flowers in sweet almond oil.
• sweet almond oil is listed in the French pharmacopoeia, and can be used in the cosmetic compositions of the invention.
• sweet almond oil has beneficial properties for cosmetic use. Traditionally used to soften the skin, sweet almond oil has soothing properties.
• Sweet almond oil is particularly rich in omega-6. These fatty acids participate in the fluidity of skin cell membranes and are therefore essential for maintaining quality skin. Sweet almond oil is also rich in linoleic acid (C18: 2n-6), known for its restructuring and protective effects, this fatty acid is part of the composition of ceramides and helps to strengthen the protective barrier of the skin. However, it is known that the presence of linoleic acid in the skin decreases significantly with age (Hayashi 2003). In addition, sweet almond oil is rich in omega-9, especially oleic acid (C18: 1 n-9).
• omega-9s are known for their nourishing property, so they are particularly advantageous for use on dry and damaged skin, in particular on the lips, where they help to form a film-forming barrier on the surface of the skin thus opposing evaporation of water.
• oleic acid is less abundant in the skin with age.
• the use of extract of peony flowers in sweet almond oil is therefore particularly advantageous for the implementation of the cosmetic methods of the invention, this extract in particular promotes hydration and nutrition of the skin and / or the lips as well as the skin barrier.
• the peony extract used in the present invention is the product marketed under the name “Pivoine de France oily extract (refined sweet almond)” by the company Greentech.
• the product "Peony of France oily extract (refined sweet almond)” is referenced under the international nomenclature, INCI: Prunus Amygdalus dulcis (sweet almond) oil (and) Paeonia officinalis flower extract.
• the peony extract is present in the cosmetic composition of the invention in an amount effective to obtain the desired effect.
• said peony extract preferably the product marketed under the name “Pivoine de France oily extract (refined sweet almond)”
• said peony extract is present in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 10%, in particular from 0.0005 % to 5%, preferably 0.001% to 1%, more preferably 0.005% to 0.5%; more preferably from 0.01% to 0.4% or even from 0.05% to 0.3% by weight of raw material (weight of product) relative to the total weight of the composition.
• Cosmetic and galenic compositions according to the invention is present in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 10%, in particular from 0.0005 % to 5%, preferably 0.001% to 1%, more preferably 0.005% to 0.5%; more preferably from 0.01% to 0.4% or even from 0.05% to 0.3% by weight of raw material (weight of product) relative to the total weight of the composition.
• this combination of extracts is used in particular for the preparation of cosmetic compositions.
• the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition
• a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a pomegranate extract and a peony extract.
• compositions are suitable for topical use, in contact with the skin and / or the lips of mammals, more particularly the skin and / or the human lips and preferably the lips.
• said one pomegranate extract is an extract of pomegranate flowers, and more preferably an oily extract of pomegranate flowers.
• said one peony extract is an extract of peony flowers, and more preferably an oily extract of peony flowers.
• said pomegranate extract and peony extract are prepared by means of the extraction methods described above.
• said oily extract of pomegranate flowers is extracted in jojoba oil.
• said oily extract of peony flowers is extracted in a sweet almond oil.
• said cosmetic composition further comprises shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii).
• Shea butter has quite advantageous properties in the cosmetic processes of the invention.
• this butter helps to nourish the skin of the lips and to preserve them, it promotes skin renewal and protects against skin dryness.
• shea butter makes it possible to protect the skin and / or the lips against exogenous attacks such as bad weather, cold, wind or even the sun.
• the shea butter used in the cosmetic compositions of the invention is an organic butter, obtained by means of a natural process having no environmental impact and free from solvents and preservatives. More preferably, the shea butter used in the cosmetic compositions of the invention is a butter enriched with an unsaponifiable fraction.
• unsaponifiable fraction is meant the non-glyceridic fraction, insoluble in water, obtained after saponification.
• unsaponifiable fraction is particularly rich in polyphenols, phytosterols, minerals, vitamins, and other antioxidant enzymes.
• the shea butter enriched with an unsaponifiable fraction is preferably obtained by the supercritical CO 2 technique.
• the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: a. an extract of pomegranate flowers in jojoba oil, preferably one of Punica Granatum flowers in jojoba oil, b. an extract of peony flowers in sweet almond oil, preferably an extract of Paenonia officinalis flowers in sweet almond oil, and c. optionally, shea butter.
• the composition according to the invention comprises: an oily extract of pomegranate flowers, in particular the extract marketed under the name “Plump Oléoactif®” by the company Oléos and under the INCI name: Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil (and) Punica Granatum Flower Extract (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, and an oily extract of peony flowers, in particular the extract marketed under the name “Peony from France extract oily (refined sweet almond)” by the company Greentech INCI name: Prunus Amygdalus dulcis (sweet almond) oil (and) Paeonia officinalis flower extract.
• an oily extract of pomegranate flowers in particular the extract marketed under the name “Plump Oléoactif®” by the company Oléos and under the INCI name: Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil (and) Punica Granatum Flower Extract (and) Polyglyceryl
• the oily extract of pomegranate and the oily extract of peony are used in an amount effective to achieve the desired effect. They are preferably used in combination and incorporated in a cosmetic composition suitable for topical application to keratin materials, in particular to the skin and / or the lips and preferably to the lips.
• the oily extract of pomegranate and the oily extract of peonies, preferably used in combination are each present in said cosmetic composition in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 10%, preferably from 0.0005% to 5%, more preferably from 0.001% to 1% by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition.
• each of the extracts is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. .
• the composition according to the invention comprises: an oily extract of pomegranate flowers, in particular the extract marketed under the name “Plump Oléoactif®” by the company Oléos and under the INCI name: Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil (and) Punica Granatum Flower Extract (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, in a content ranging from 0.001 to 1%, of preferably from 0.1 to 1% and more preferably from 0.2 to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and an oily extract of peony flowers, in particular the extract marketed under the name " Pivoine de France oily extract (refined sweet almond) "by the company Greentech with INCI name: Prunus Amygdalus dulcis (sweet almond) oil (and) Paeonia officinalis flower extract, in a content ranging from 0.001 to 1%, preferably 0, 1 to 1% and more preferably from 0.2 to 0.5% by weight
• the cosmetic composition of the invention is a composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips and in particular the lips.
• the cosmetic composition of the invention comprises at least one extract of pomegranate, at least one extract of peony, optionally shea butter, and in addition one or more acceptable cosmetic excipients from those known to those skilled in the art with a view to obtain a composition for topical application.
• the invention therefore also relates to a cosmetic composition, in the form of a topical composition for the lips and / or the skin, in particular in the form of a lip balm, stick, lip varnish, cream, oil emulsion. -in-water, or water-in-oil or multiple emulsion, solution, suspension, gel, milk, lotion, or serum.
• said composition is in the form of a lip balm, a stick or a lip varnish.
• said composition is in the form of a skin cream or oil.
• composition of the invention can also further comprise at least one cosmetic adjuvant chosen from the group consisting of antioxidants, emollients, moisturizers, anti-aging agents, perfumes, and mixtures thereof.
• the cosmetic adjuvants advantageously used in the composition of the invention can be present in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 10%, preferably from 0.001% to 5% by weight (of raw material) relative to the total weight of the product. composition.
• one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients can also be selected from polymers, surfactants, rheology agents, perfumes, electrolytes, pH adjusters, preservatives, colorants, nacres, pigments and mixtures thereof.
• a person skilled in the art will know how to adapt the nature and the content of the aqueous phase and / or of the fatty phase.
• the composition of the invention is an anhydrous composition.
• anhydrous is meant in particular that the water is preferably not added deliberately in the compositions but can be present in trace form in the various compounds used in the compositions.
• the composition according to the invention comprises less than 4% by weight of water, preferably less than 3%, preferably less than 2%, more preferably less than 1%, even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said composition, or even is completely free of water.
• composition of the invention comprises an aqueous phase.
• the aqueous phase when present, will generally represent from 1 to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
• the fatty or oily phase will generally range from 0.2% to 45%, preferably from 0.5% to 30%, and more preferably from 2% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
• the cosmetic composition of the invention comprises an aqueous phase.
• the aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.
• water-soluble solvent means a compound which is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C. and atmospheric pressure). Mention may in particular be made of: lower C1-C5 mono-alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol and their mixtures, C2-C8 glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1, 3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof, C2-C32 polyols such as polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof, and mixtures thereof.
• lower C1-C5 mono-alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol and their mixtures
• C2-C8 glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1, 3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof
• C2-C32 polyols such as polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof, and mixture
• hydrophilic gelling agents antioxidants, preservatives and mixtures thereof.
• hydrophilic gelling agents mention may in particular be made of polymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of acrylic and methacrylic acids, carboxyvinyl polymers, associative thickeners of acrylic or polyurethane type, polysaccharide gelling agents, natural or modified gums. , mineral gelling agents, and mixtures thereof.
• hydrophilic gelling agent (s) in the cosmetic composition of the invention will generally range from 0.01% to 5%, in particular from 0.1% to 4%, preferably from 0.2% to 3% and more preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
• the cosmetic composition of the invention comprises a fatty (solid fatty substance) or oily phase.
• oil phase is understood to mean an oil or a mixture of oils which may or may not be miscible with one another.
• oil is understood to mean a fatty substance which is insoluble in water and which is liquid at 25 ° C. and atmospheric pressure.
• oils can be volatile or non-volatile, vegetable, mineral or synthetic.
• volatile oil is meant according to the invention an oil of volatile nature defined by at least one of the criteria defined below.
• the volatility can be defined within the framework of the invention for example a vapor pressure measurable at 25 ° C by an empirical method, and whose value will be between 2.6 Pa and 40,000 Pa, for example between 5 Pa and 20,000 Pa , between 10 Pa and 8000 Pa, or even between 15 and 150 Pa.
• the vapor pressure will be measured according to one of the methods best suited for the compound of interest, in particular according to the method recommended by the document “OECD Guidelines for the Testing of Chemicals - Vapor pressure ”, (n ° 104 adopted on March 23, 2006).
• non-volatile oil exhibiting a boiling point at atmospheric pressure of less than 250 ° C, preferably less than 230 ° C and preferably between 150 ° C and 220 ° C.
• the volatile oil may also be defined as an oil having a flash point ranging from 35 ° C to 100 ° C, preferably between 40 ° C and 80 ° C.
• non-volatile oil is understood to mean according to the invention an oil not meeting the volatility criteria defined above, in particular an oil having a vapor pressure, measurable at 25 ° C by an empirical method, less than 2.6 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa, measured in particular according to the method described above.
• An oily phase according to the invention can comprise oils of natural origin, hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.
• oily compounds can be volatile or non-volatile, liquid or solid at 30 ° C, vegetable, mineral or synthetic.
• oil of natural origin is meant according to the invention vegetable oils extracted from plants, roots, leaves or fruits, optionally transformed by esterification.
• hydrocarbon oil is meant according to the invention a compound an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.
• non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil compound mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon-based oils, hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, C10-C40 synthetic ethers, C10-C40 synthetic esters, C12-C26 fatty alcohols, C12-C22 higher fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.
• silicon oil is meant according to the invention an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.
• the fatty or oily phase can also comprise waxes, pasty fatty substances, and mixtures thereof.
• wax within the meaning of the present invention, means a solid compound at 25 ° C which exhibits a reversible solid / liquid change of state and a melting temperature greater than 30 ° C, preferably greater than 45 ° C. Mention may in particular be made of polyethylene waxes, candelilla wax, beeswax and mixtures thereof.
• a composition according to the invention in particular in the case of a composition for the lips, may comprise a wax content ranging from 5% to 25%, for example from 10% to 20% by weight, preferably from 12%. at 18% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• pasty fatty compound or pasty compound or pasty fatty substance denotes a non-crystalline fatty compound comprising, at a temperature of 25 ° C., a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
• the pasty compound is for example chosen from the group consisting of lanolin and its derivatives, triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, shea butter, cocoa butter, mango oil or butter, and mixtures thereof. .
• a composition according to the invention in particular in the case of a composition for the lips, may comprise a content of pasty compounds ranging from 5% to 25%, for example from 10% to 22% by weight, preferably from 15% to 15%. % to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the cosmetic processes and cosmetic uses described below are intended for application to keratin materials, in particular healthy keratin materials, preferably healthy skin and / or lips and in particular healthy lips (“healthy” subjects).
• healthy keratin materials means keratin materials that do not present any disorders or disorders which would result from a pathological state (“non-healthy” subjects suffering from a pathology). We will speak equally of healthy skin and / or lips or of skin and / or lips in the remainder of the description.
• Another subject of the invention relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up healthy keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips, comprising the application to said keratin materials of at least one layer of a cosmetic composition as described above.
• said cosmetic process is intended to promote and / or stimulate the hydration and / or nutrition of keratin materials, preferably of the skin and / or of the lips, and / or to prevent and / or reduce loss of volume, loss firmness, loss of elasticity, reduction in skin thickness and / or impairment of the barrier function of the skin and / or lips.
• said cosmetic process of the invention makes it possible to improve the feeling of comfort of keratin materials, in particular the feeling of comfort of the skin and / or the lips.
• Another subject relates to the cosmetic use of a combination of plant extracts as described above, in particular the combination of at least one extract of pomegranate flowers in jojoba oil, and an extract of peony flowers in sweet almond oil, as a combination of active ingredients for promoting and / or stimulating the hydration and nutrition of keratin materials, preferably of the skin and / or lips, and / or preventing and / or decrease the loss of volume, the loss of firmness, the loss of elasticity, the reduction in the thickness of the skin and / or the deterioration of the barrier function of the skin.
• compositions used in the process according to the invention comprise: an oily extract of pomegranate flowers, in particular the extract marketed under the name “Plump Oléoactif®” by the company Oléos and under the INCI name: Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil (and) Punica Granatum Flower Extract (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, and an oily extract of peony flowers, in particular the extract marketed under the name "Pivoine de France oily extract (refined sweet almond)” by the company Greentech with INCI name: Prunus Amygdalus dulcis (sweet almond) oil (and) Paeonia officinalis flower extract.
• an oily extract of pomegranate flowers in particular the extract marketed under the name “Plump Oléoactif®” by the company Oléos and under the INCI name: Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil (and) Punica Granatum Flower Extract (and)
• compositions of the invention will be applied to healthy subjects exhibiting a loss of firmness and / or elasticity and / or volume of the skin, or dry skin.
• compositions of the invention will be applied to healthy subjects exhibiting a loss of volume of the lips or of the dry or fragile lips.
• the present invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples.
• The% are expressed by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated.
• Oily extract of pomegranate flowers “Plump Oléoactif®” from the Oléos company and INCI name: Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil (and) Punica Granatum Flower Extract (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate.
• Oily extract of peony flowers “Pivoine de France oily extract (refined sweet almond)” by the company Greentech with INCI name: Prunus Amygdalus dulcis (sweet almond) oil (and) Paeonia officinalis flower extract.
• NHKs Normal Human Keratinocytes originating from an abdominoplasty were inoculated in passage 4 in TPP150 flasks in supplemented Epilife medium.
• the NHKs were trypsinized at pre-confluence (0.05% Trypsin-EDTA, GIBCO-Invitrogen), and neutralized with a medium containing serum. They were then inoculated by passage 5 in 96-well imaging plates (m-plate 96 well, ibiTreat, Ibidi) at a rate of 15,000 cells per well.
• the NHKs were treated with the plant extracts of the invention in complete Epilife medium containing 200 mM of CaCl2, in order to promote cell differentiation (0.2 mL / well). The treatment was carried out in triplicate for each condition, for 48 hours (study of early differentiation markers) or for 5 days (study late differentiation markers).
• the medium is replaced with new medium + CaCl2.
• Normal Human Fibroblasts (NHF) resulting from an abdominoplasty were inoculated in DMEM 1 g / L glucose medium supplemented with 10% fetal calf serum at P6 with a seeding density of 30,000 cells per well, in 96-well plates.
• the NHFs were treated with the plant extracts of the invention in DMEM medium 1 g / L glucose + 10% FCS.
• the treatment is carried out in triplicate for each condition, for 5 days.
• the medium is replaced with new medium.
• the cells were rinsed three times with PBS (PBS Tablets, Invitrogen GIBCO), then fixed with formalin (Formalin Solution 10% Neutral Buffered, Sigma) for 10 minutes.
• PBS Tablets, Invitrogen GIBCO PBS Tablets, Invitrogen GIBCO
• formalin Formin Solution 10% Neutral Buffered, Sigma
• the membranes of the cells were permeabilized with a solution of PBS Triton 0.1% (Triton X-100, Sigma), then were rinsed again 3 times with PBS.
• the cells were covered with a solution of PBS / 1% BSA (Albumin, from bovine serum, Sigma), for 30 minutes, at room temperature.
• PBS / 1% BSA Albumin, from bovine serum, Sigma
• the 1% PBS / BSA solution was then replaced with a primary antibody solution corresponding to each labeled protein (see Table 1) diluted in PBS / 1% BSA.
• the plates were incubated overnight at 4 ° C.
• the cells were then rinsed three times with PBS and covered with a solution of secondary antibodies depending on the primary antibody to be targeted (see table 2) and DAPI at 1 / 500th (4 ', 6'-diamidino-2- phenylindole, dihydrochloride, Invitrogen Molecular Probes) diluted in PBS / BSA 1%.
• the plates were stored for one hour in the dark at room temperature.
• the plates were scanned with ArrayScan XTi from Thermo Cellomics.
• the images were then analyzed using Spot detector image analysis software, a bio-application developed for the arrayscan system.
• This program (pipeline) makes it possible to detect the red labeling of the targeted protein, corresponding to its expression.
• the area of the measurement area is delimited as the entire area of the image.
• the number of cells is determined by counting the nuclei by detecting the blue labeling.
• Aquaporins are a class of membrane proteins that form "pores" or channels permeable to water molecules in biological membranes. They allow the supply of water from the deep layers to the superficial layers, the AQP3 expressed in the lower part of the epidermis thus plays a fundamental role in establishing the flow of trans-epidermal water. Its interest in regulating skin hydration has been particularly studied by the Applicant.
• the dermo-epidermal junction or epidermal basement membrane is the acellular region which separates the dermis from the epidermis. It is a mechanical support for the adhesion of the epidermis to the dermis, controls exchanges and plays a fundamental role during skin re-epidermization by serving, through the glycoproteins which constitute it as a support for the adhesion and migration of the skin. keratinocytes. Nidogen (also called entactin), is a glycoprotein found at the level of this basal layer which allows the assembly of the constituents of this basal layer. The results of FIG.
• Collagen 1 is part of a family of so-called structural proteins present in fibrillar form in the dermis. It is abundantly present in the extracellular matrix (ECM), this support protein gives tissues mechanical resistance to stretching. Procollagen is the soluble precursor of type 1 collagen. The deposition and assembly of collagen fibrils in ECM is a complex process involving several proteins including the structural protein fibronectin.
• results of FIG. 4 show that the treatment with pomegranate extract alone leads to a significant decrease in the expression of fibronectin by 6%, while the peony extract alone significantly increases the expression of 5% fibronectin.
• the combination of the two extracts produces a potentiation effect, allowing a significant increase in the expression of fibronectin by 15%.
• the results show that the combination of the two extracts according to the invention exhibits synergistic effects, or even potentiation effects, and therefore a benefit for the maintenance of the cutaneous extracellular matrix.
• This combination of extract therefore makes it possible to prevent and / or reduce the loss of volume, the loss of firmness, the loss of elasticity and the reduction in the thickness of the skin. 3. Examples of formulations
• compositions illustrated below are prepared according to conventional methods of formulation in the cosmetics field.
• composition comprises a combination of the two oily extracts according to the invention, in equal proportions (0.25% oily extract of pomegranate flowers and 0.25% oily extract of peony flowers).
• this composition provides a moisturizing and nourishing action and makes it possible to prevent and / or reduce the loss of volume, the loss of firmness, the loss of elasticity and the reduction in the thickness of the skin. the skin. 3.2.
• composition comprises a combination of the two oily extracts according to the invention, in equal proportions (0.25% oily extract of pomegranate flowers and 0.25% oily extract of peony flowers).
• this balm gives an immediate nourishing and moisturizing effect, it prevents the loss of volume and it protects weakened lips and brings comfort, emollience and hydration to the surface of the lips.

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• 2019
  • 2019-12-12 FR FR1914248A patent/FR3104436B1/fr active Active
• 2020
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