EP3887588B1 - Method for creating a woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres, plastic to the touch, glossy and scented - Google Patents
Method for creating a woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres, plastic to the touch, glossy and scented Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- EP3887588B1 EP3887588B1 EP19808906.2A EP19808906A EP3887588B1 EP 3887588 B1 EP3887588 B1 EP 3887588B1 EP 19808906 A EP19808906 A EP 19808906A EP 3887588 B1 EP3887588 B1 EP 3887588B1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- stage
- artificial
- woven fabric
- natural fibres
- sub
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Active
Links
- 239000002759 woven fabric Substances 0.000 title claims description 50
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims description 18
- 239000004033 plastic Substances 0.000 title claims description 8
- 238000010926 purge Methods 0.000 claims description 20
- 206010037544 Purging Diseases 0.000 claims description 18
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 claims description 14
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 claims description 13
- 238000003825 pressing Methods 0.000 claims description 11
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 claims description 9
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 claims description 9
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- 239000002932 luster Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000004061 bleaching Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000003205 fragrance Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000004925 Acrylic resin Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920000178 Acrylic resin Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- CDBYLPFSWZWCQE-UHFFFAOYSA-L Sodium Carbonate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-]C([O-])=O CDBYLPFSWZWCQE-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000011347 resin Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920005989 resin Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 229930182559 Natural dye Natural products 0.000 claims description 2
- 244000203593 Piper nigrum Species 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000008184 Piper nigrum Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 241000220317 Rosa Species 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000019568 aromas Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000013614 black pepper Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000003054 catalyst Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000002270 dispersing agent Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 230000001804 emulsifying effect Effects 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000000978 natural dye Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000006200 vaporizer Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 244000166675 Cymbopogon nardus Species 0.000 claims 1
- 235000018791 Cymbopogon nardus Nutrition 0.000 claims 1
- 241000208152 Geranium Species 0.000 claims 1
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 4
- 229920002994 synthetic fiber Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000004448 titration Methods 0.000 description 2
- QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-M Acetate Chemical compound CC([O-])=O QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 240000004784 Cymbopogon citratus Species 0.000 description 1
- 235000017897 Cymbopogon citratus Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 241001327300 Cymbopogon schoenanthus Species 0.000 description 1
- 235000015847 Hesperis matronalis Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 240000004533 Hesperis matronalis Species 0.000 description 1
- 239000004952 Polyamide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920000297 Rayon Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 238000004140 cleaning Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000001419 dependent effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000012986 modification Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000004048 modification Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920002647 polyamide Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000009467 reduction Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B21/00—Successive treatments of textile materials by liquids, gases or vapours
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C15/00—Calendering, pressing, ironing, glossing or glazing textile fabrics
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C3/00—Stretching, tentering or spreading textile fabrics; Producing elasticity in textile fabrics
- D06C3/02—Stretching, tentering or spreading textile fabrics; Producing elasticity in textile fabrics by endless chain or like apparatus
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a method for creating a woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres, which is plastic fabric hand, luster and scented.
- FR2422751A1 describes a method of making a crêpe de chine fabric in ways other than the classic crêpe de chine made of 100% silk, i.e. using a woven warp with artificial fiber and a cotton weft. It provides warps in artificial or synthetic silk, i.e. viscose, acetate, polyamide, polyester, and crepe cotton weft (twisted) with 2S/2Z weaving having different combinations of reductions between threads and peaks. Crêpe de chine fabric is built with twisted weft yarns.
- the object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a woven fabric of "bazin"-type with artificial and natural fibres which is plastic fabric hand, is luster and is scented, enriching the known technique and creating a more three-dimensional, breathable, shimmering and comfortable fabric.
- this object is achieved by a method according to claim 1.
- said woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres comprises a cupro warp (Bemberg TM ) and a cotton weave.
- Natural cotton fibre comprises a titration which varies from NE 20 to NE 120, preferably NE 60/1.
- the woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres according to the present invention comprises a cotton warp and a cupro weave (Bemberg TM ).
- a warp beam of the loom counts a number of threads comprised between 5,000 and 20,000, preferably between 10,000 and 15,000.
- the number of warp threads per centimetre is comprised between 20 and 200, preferably between 50 and 100.
- the number of picks in the frame per centimetre is comprised between 20 and 100, preferably 55.
- the height of the fabric is comprised between 100 and 500 centimetres, preferably 160 cm.
- the method for making said woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres comprises operations in a chronological order: a first weaving operation and a second ennobling operation.
- the first weaving operation takes place by means of a frame which, in combination with a Jacquard-type textile machine, creates a loom-state woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres.
- This woven fabric is constituted by a multiplicity of weaves between warp and weft, so-called armatures, which in turn generate various types of designs.
- the second ennobling operation comprises, in chronological order, a first purging stage, a second dyeing stage, a third drying stage and a fourth finishing stage.
- the first purging stage provides to pass the loom-state woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres into a machine commonly known as a purge.
- the loom-state woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres passes for a multiplicity of times through tanks containing cleaning products which eliminate any residue present on the woven fabric, in preparation for the subsequent stages.
- the first purging stage comprises four sub-stages in chronological order.
- a first sub-stage of the first purging stage provides that the loom-state woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres have been immersed in a first tank containing a mixture of water at 60 °C and an emulsifying surfactant, preferably Foryl ® 1000.
- a second sub-stage of the first purging stage provides that the woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres coming out from the first sub-stage to pass from the first tank to a second tank containing a mixture of water at 90 °C and a dispersant, preferably DISPERSING 30.
- a third sub-stage of the first purging stage provides that the loom-state woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres coming out from the second stage to pass from the second tank to a third tank containing a mixture of water at 90 °C and soda, preferably Solvay TM soda.
- a fourth sub-stage of the first purging stage provides that the woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres coming out from the third sub-stage to be subjected to passage through a vaporizer at 90 °C.
- the temperatures in the purging stage can be comprised within a range of ⁇ 10 °C compared to the value indicated.
- the second dyeing stage of the loom-state woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres coming out from the first purging phase comprises as an alternative:
- the third drying stage provides to pass the woven fabric coming out from the second dyeing stage into a machine, known as a Rameuse machine i.e. stenter, which has the purpose of making the woven fabric reach the desired height, ready to face the next passage.
- a Rameuse machine i.e. stenter
- the fourth finishing stage calls for subjecting the woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres coming out from the third drying stage to operations of pressing, resining and scenting.
- the pressing operation of the fourth finishing stage provides that pass the woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres coming out from the third drying stage into a machine known as a calender.
- the pressing operation of the fourth finishing stage is repeated for a number of cycles comprised between 1 and 3.
- the passage in the calender provides that the pressure values of the crushing cylinders (of which it is equipped) to be comprised between 180 and 500 kg/cm 2 , while it is provided that the temperatures of the same cylinders are between 100 and 400 °C.
- the fourth finishing stage provides that the woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres to also be subjected to a resining operation and a scenting operation.
- the scenting operation provides to add fragrances, aromas or similar to the woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres, such as fragrances of rose hips, black pepper, geranium and lemongrass.
- the resining operation that occurs during the pressing of the woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres in the calender, at the same time or at a different time than the scenting operation, is performed to make the woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres plastic fabric hand and luster.
- the resining operation provides that the application of a mixture to the woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres comprising glycosalic resin, preferably Fixapert Elf, a catalyst, preferably NKD, and an acrylic resin, preferably Berman ANI.
- the resining operation provides that the application of a mixture to the woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres comprising acrylic resin, preferably CERALUBE SVN.
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Materials Engineering (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
- Prostheses (AREA)
Description
- The present invention relates to a method for creating a woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres, which is plastic fabric hand, luster and scented.
- In the current state of the art, methods are known for manufacturing a woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres comprising a cupro (Bemberg™) warp, whose commercial name is Bemberg™, and a cotton weave with multiple uses.
- In the current state of the art, methods are known for manufacturing woven fabrics with natural fibres, natural and synthetic fibres or synthetic fibres plastic fabric hand, luster and scented to make damask woven fabrics typical of African culture and known as "bazin".
-
FR2422751A1 - The object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a woven fabric of "bazin"-type with artificial and natural fibres which is plastic fabric hand, is luster and is scented, enriching the known technique and creating a more three-dimensional, breathable, shimmering and comfortable fabric.
- According to the invention, this object is achieved by a method according to claim 1.
- Other characteristics are provided in the dependent claims.
- The characteristics and the advantages of the present invention will become more evident from the following description, which is exemplary and not limiting.
- A method for making a woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres manufactured by means of a loom and a Jacquard-type textile machine wherein said woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres comprises a cupro warp (Bemberg™) and a cotton weave.
- Artificial cupro fibre (Bemberg™) provides a titration comprised between 22 and 300 dtex, preferably 84 dtex.
- Natural cotton fibre comprises a titration which varies from NE 20 to NE 120, preferably NE 60/1.
- Alternatively, it is possible to provide that the woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres according to the present invention comprises a cotton warp and a cupro weave (Bemberg™).
- A warp beam of the loom counts a number of threads comprised between 5,000 and 20,000, preferably between 10,000 and 15,000.
- Consequently the number of warp threads per centimetre is comprised between 20 and 200, preferably between 50 and 100.
- The number of picks in the frame per centimetre is comprised between 20 and 100, preferably 55.
- The height of the fabric is comprised between 100 and 500 centimetres, preferably 160 cm.
- The method for making said woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres comprises operations in a chronological order: a first weaving operation and a second ennobling operation.
- The first weaving operation takes place by means of a frame which, in combination with a Jacquard-type textile machine, creates a loom-state woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres. This woven fabric is constituted by a multiplicity of weaves between warp and weft, so-called armatures, which in turn generate various types of designs.
- The second ennobling operation comprises, in chronological order, a first purging stage, a second dyeing stage, a third drying stage and a fourth finishing stage.
- The first purging stage provides to pass the loom-state woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres into a machine commonly known as a purge. In this stage the loom-state woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres passes for a multiplicity of times through tanks containing cleaning products which eliminate any residue present on the woven fabric, in preparation for the subsequent stages.
- Specifically, the first purging stage comprises four sub-stages in chronological order.
- A first sub-stage of the first purging stage provides that the loom-state woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres have been immersed in a first tank containing a mixture of water at 60 °C and an emulsifying surfactant, preferably Foryl® 1000.
- A second sub-stage of the first purging stage provides that the woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres coming out from the first sub-stage to pass from the first tank to a second tank containing a mixture of water at 90 °C and a dispersant, preferably DISPERSING 30.
- A third sub-stage of the first purging stage provides that the loom-state woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres coming out from the second stage to pass from the second tank to a third tank containing a mixture of water at 90 °C and soda, preferably Solvay ™ soda.
- A fourth sub-stage of the first purging stage provides that the woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres coming out from the third sub-stage to be subjected to passage through a vaporizer at 90 °C.
- These four sub-stages are repeated in a continuous cycle until a woven fabric free of any textile auxiliaries (sizeing, spinning oils or other) is obtained, ready to be sent to the next dyeing stage.
- The temperatures in the purging stage can be comprised within a range of ±10 °C compared to the value indicated.
- The second dyeing stage of the loom-state woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres coming out from the first purging phase comprises as an alternative:
- a) a dyeing sub-stage by means of reactive-class dyes
- b) a dyeing sub-stage by means of direct-class dyes
- c) a sub-stage comprising a first bleaching operation and a second dyeing operation by means of natural dyes which follows the bleaching operation in chronological order.
- The third drying stage provides to pass the woven fabric coming out from the second dyeing stage into a machine, known as a Rameuse machine i.e. stenter, which has the purpose of making the woven fabric reach the desired height, ready to face the next passage.
- The fourth finishing stage calls for subjecting the woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres coming out from the third drying stage to operations of pressing, resining and scenting.
- The pressing operation of the fourth finishing stage provides that pass the woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres coming out from the third drying stage into a machine known as a calender.
- The pressing operation of the fourth finishing stage is repeated for a number of cycles comprised between 1 and 3.
- The passage in the calender provides that the pressure values of the crushing cylinders (of which it is equipped) to be comprised between 180 and 500 kg/cm2, while it is provided that the temperatures of the same cylinders are between 100 and 400 °C.
- The fourth finishing stage provides that the woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres to also be subjected to a resining operation and a scenting operation.
- The scenting operation provides to add fragrances, aromas or similar to the woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres, such as fragrances of rose hips, black pepper, geranium and lemongrass.
- The resining operation that occurs during the pressing of the woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres in the calender, at the same time or at a different time than the scenting operation, is performed to make the woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres plastic fabric hand and luster.
- In order to obtain plastic fabric hand characteristic, the resining operation provides that the application of a mixture to the woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres comprising glycosalic resin, preferably Fixapert Elf, a catalyst, preferably NKD, and an acrylic resin, preferably Berman ANI.
- In order to obtain luster, the resining operation provides that the application of a mixture to the woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres comprising acrylic resin, preferably CERALUBE SVN.
- Alternatively it is possible to provide that said resining and/or said scenting operation takes place simultaneously with said cycle of pressing operations of the fourth finishing stage.
- The invention thus conceived is susceptible to many modifications and variants, all falling within the same inventive concept.
Claims (10)
- A method for making a woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres, which is of bazin-type fabric which is plastic fabric hand, is luster and is scented, comprising operations in a chronological order,a first weaving operation by means of a loom and a Jacquard-type textile machine producing a loom-state woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres comprising a plurality of weaves between warp and weft, said loom-state woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres comprising cotton fibres and cupro fibres, a second ennobling operation which comprises in chronological order a first purging stage, a second dyeing stage, a third drying stage and a fourth finishing stage,said first purging stage provides to pass said loom-state woven fabric with artificial and natural fabric through a purge, said second dyeing stage provides to dye said woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres coming out from the first purging stage, said third drying stage comprises an operation to pass the woven fabric coming out from the second dyeing stage into a stenter to reach the desired height of the woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres coming out from the third drying stage, said fourth finishing stage provides to subject the woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres coming from the third drying stage to a cycle of operations of pressing, resining and scenting,wherein each pressing operation of said cycle of pressing operations of the fourth finishing stage provides to pass the woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres coming out from the third drying stage into a calender.
- The method according to claim 1, characterized in that said loom-state woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres comprises a cupro warp and a cotton weft.
- The method according to claim 1, characterized in that said loom-state woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres comprises a cotton warp and a cupro weft.
- The method according to any one of claims 1-3, characterized in that said first purging stage comprises four sub-stages in chronological order to be repeated for a multiplicity of cycles, a first sub-stage of the first purging stage comprises a first passage of the loom-state woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres through a first tank containing a mixture comprising water at a temperature comprised between 50 and 70 °C and an emulsifying surfactant,a second sub-stage of the first purging stage comprises a second passage of the woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres passed into the first tank into a second tank containing a mixture comprising water at a temperature comprised between 80 and 100 °C and a dispersant,a third sub-stage of the first purging stage comprises a third passage of the woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres passed into the second tank into a third tank containing a mixture comprising water at a temperature comprised between 80 and 100 °C and soda,a fourth sub-stage of the first purging stage comprises a passage through a vaporizer at a temperature comprised between 80 and 100 °C.
- The method according to any one of claims 1-4, characterized in that said second dyeing stage of the woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres coming out from the first purging stage comprises a sub-stage of dyeing by means of reactive-class dyes, and/or a sub-stage of dyeing by means of direct-class dyes, and/or a sub-stage comprising a first bleaching operation and a second dyeing operation by means of natural dyes which follows the bleaching operation in chronological order.
- The method according to any one of claims 1-5, characterized in that said cycle of pressing operations of the fourth finishing stage comprises a number of pressing operations comprised between 1 and 3.
- The method according to any one of claims 1-6, characterized in that said scenting operation provides to add fragrances, aromas or similar to said woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres, which comprise for example fragrances of rose hips, black pepper, geranium and citronella.
- The method according to any one of claims 1-7, characterized in that said resining operation provides to resin the woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres to make the woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres plastic fabric hand and luster.
- The method according to claim 8, characterized in that the resining operation comprises an application of a mixture comprising glycosalic resin, a catalyst and acrylic resins to the woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres.
- The method according to any one of claims 1-9, characterized in that said resining operation and/or said scenting operation take place simultaneously with said cycle of pressing operations of the fourth finishing stage.
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
IT102018000010740A IT201800010740A1 (en) | 2018-11-30 | 2018-11-30 | PROCEDURE TO MAKE AN ARTIFICIAL AND NATURAL POLISHED AND SCENTED PLASTIC FABRIC |
PCT/IB2019/060034 WO2020109942A1 (en) | 2018-11-30 | 2019-11-21 | Method for creating a woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres, plastic to the touch, glossy and scented |
Publications (3)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
EP3887588A1 EP3887588A1 (en) | 2021-10-06 |
EP3887588C0 EP3887588C0 (en) | 2024-01-24 |
EP3887588B1 true EP3887588B1 (en) | 2024-01-24 |
Family
ID=65767187
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
EP19808906.2A Active EP3887588B1 (en) | 2018-11-30 | 2019-11-21 | Method for creating a woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres, plastic to the touch, glossy and scented |
Country Status (3)
Country | Link |
---|---|
EP (1) | EP3887588B1 (en) |
IT (1) | IT201800010740A1 (en) |
WO (1) | WO2020109942A1 (en) |
Family Cites Families (4)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
CH627799A5 (en) * | 1978-04-10 | 1982-01-29 | Taco Ag | Crêpe de chine fabric |
GB2074205B (en) * | 1980-04-23 | 1984-02-01 | Ivanov Nii Khlopchatobumazhnoi | Method and unit for finishing treatment of textile materials |
DE4300047C1 (en) * | 1993-01-04 | 1994-06-16 | Kuesters Eduard Maschf | Fabric high finishing - has set content of finishing fluid for fabric spreading for dwell time in steam atmosphere. |
CN102517774B (en) * | 2011-12-12 | 2013-04-10 | 江苏大生集团有限公司 | Antibacterial, deodorant, moisture-wicking, quick-drying and super-cotton-like knitted fabric and production process thereof |
-
2018
- 2018-11-30 IT IT102018000010740A patent/IT201800010740A1/en unknown
-
2019
- 2019-11-21 EP EP19808906.2A patent/EP3887588B1/en active Active
- 2019-11-21 WO PCT/IB2019/060034 patent/WO2020109942A1/en active Search and Examination
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
WO2020109942A1 (en) | 2020-06-04 |
EP3887588A1 (en) | 2021-10-06 |
IT201800010740A1 (en) | 2020-05-30 |
EP3887588C0 (en) | 2024-01-24 |
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U07 | Unitary effect registered |
Designated state(s): AT BE BG DE DK EE FI FR IT LT LU LV MT NL PT SE SI Effective date: 20240227 |