KR20150105113A - Using silk and polyeser union cloth - Google Patents

Using silk and polyeser union cloth Download PDF

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Publication number
KR20150105113A
KR20150105113A KR1020140027351A KR20140027351A KR20150105113A KR 20150105113 A KR20150105113 A KR 20150105113A KR 1020140027351 A KR1020140027351 A KR 1020140027351A KR 20140027351 A KR20140027351 A KR 20140027351A KR 20150105113 A KR20150105113 A KR 20150105113A
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South Korea
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yarn
silk
polyester
denier
polyester yarn
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KR1020140027351A
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Korean (ko)
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서기철
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서기철
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Priority to KR1020140027351A priority Critical patent/KR20150105113A/en
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/233—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads protein-based, e.g. wool or silk
    • D03D15/235—Cashmere or silk
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/26—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre with characteristics dependent on the amount or direction of twist
    • D02G3/28—Doubled, plied, or cabled threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D1/00—Woven fabrics designed to make specified articles
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/283—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/41—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads with specific twist
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B1/00—Applying liquids, gases or vapours onto textile materials to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing or impregnating
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/04—Silk
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]

Abstract

The present invention relates to a fabric, and more specifically, to a silk fabric using a silk yarn having the thickness of 18-28 denier as the warp and a polyester yarn as the weft. The polyester yarn has the thickness of 40-60 denier and is prepared by spraying one strand of a monofilament polyester yarn having the thickness of 240 denier into 12 strands and twisting 2-3 strands among the 12 strands of the polyester yarn having the thickness of 20 denier at the rate of 500-800 T/M. The density of the silk yarn used as the warp is 100-120 /inch. The density of the polyester yarn used as the weft is 85-95 /inch to maintain the advantages of silk and overcome the disadvantages thereof while improving the price competitiveness.

Description

실크사와 폴리에스테르사를 이용한 교직물{USING SILK AND POLYESER UNION CLOTH} {USING SILK AND POLYESER UNION CLOTH} USING SILK AND POLYESTER

본 발명은 직물에 관한 것으로서 특히 실크사와 폴리에스테르사를 이용한 교직물에 관한 것이다. BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention [0002] The present invention relates to fabrics, and more particularly to fabrics using silk yarns and polyester yarns.

일반적으로 실크직물은 고치실을 원료로 하여 만든 비단실로 직조한 것으로서 한복의 안감이나 드레스용 등으로 많이 이용된다. Generally, silk fabrics are woven with silk thread made of cocoons as a raw material, and they are widely used for lining of hanbok and dresses.

실크직물에 사용되는 실크사는 우아한 광택과 촉감을 가지고 있으며 견명효과, 천연감 등의 장점이 있어 고급 제품에 많이 사용되고 있으나 고가이므로 경제성이 떨어지고, 실크의 특성인 수분에 약하고 주름이 생기기 쉬우며 세탁에 대한 내구성이 약하고 마찰에도 약한 단점이 있다. Silk yarns used for silk fabrics have elegant gloss and feel, and they are used for high quality products because they have advantages such as scratching effect and natural feeling. However, they are expensive, so they are not economical and they are weak to moisture which is characteristic of silk, There is a weak point of weak durability and weak friction.

따라서 실크직물의 단점을 해결하기 위해 실크직물의 직조시 실크원사와 다른 화섬소재와 교직하는 방법이 있다. 다른 화섬소재로서 면, 모, 레이온, 마, 아세테이트, 나일론, 폴리에스테르 등의 섬유사를 이용하는 방법들이 시도되어 왔다. Therefore, in order to solve the disadvantages of the silk fabrics, there is a method of woven silk yarn and other synthetic fibers when weaving the silk fabrics. As other synthetic fibers, methods using fiber yarns such as cotton, rayon, rayon, hemp, acetate, nylon, and polyester have been tried.

그 중에서 폴리에스테르사는 비중, 광택, 촉감 측면에서 실크와 유사한 점이 많으며, 실크에 비하여 저가로서 실크 대체 소재로 활용되고 있다. Among them, polyester yarns have many similarities with silk in terms of specific gravity, gloss, and feel, and they are used as substitute materials for silk at lower cost than silk.

그러나 폴리에스테르사는 고유의 광택과 촉감이 저가 이미지를 주며, 염색시 고온 및 고압에서 진행해야 견뢰도를 확보할 수 있으나 이 조건에서 염색 처리할 경우 실크 고유의 광택을 상실할 수 있게 되어 고급제품에는 많이 활용되지 못하고 있다. However, the polyester yarn has inherent gloss and feel, gives a low-cost image, and it can be secured at high temperature and high pressure for dyeing. However, when dyeing is performed under this condition, it is possible to lose the gloss inherent in silk, It is not utilized.

이러한 점을 감안하여 실크사와 폴리에스테르사를 서로 교직함으로써 가격 경쟁력을 높이면서도 실크 고유의 장점을 유지하면서도 단점들을 보완할 수 있는 실크 교직물을 제직할 수 있다면 섬유업계에 많은 호응이 예상될 것이다. Considering this fact, it is expected that the silk fabrics can be made to be compatible with the textile industry by enhancing the price competitiveness of the silk yarn and the polyester yarn.

국내등록특허 제10-0554762호 “실크/합성섬유 복합사의 제조방법”Korean Patent No. 10-0554762 " Manufacturing Method of Silk / Synthetic Fiber Composite Yarn "

따라서 본 발명은 실크사와 폴리에스테르사를 교직하여 실크가 가지는 장점을 유지하면서도 단점들을 보완하며 가격 경쟁력을 향상시킬 수 있는 실크 교직물을 제공하는데 있다. Accordingly, it is an object of the present invention to provide a silk textile material which can improve the price competitiveness while maintaining the merits of silk and polyester yarn by supporting silk yarn and polyester yarn.

상기한 목적을 달성하기 위한 본 발명은 18∼28데니어 굵기의 실크사를 경사로 사용하고, 폴리에스테르사를 위사로 사용하되 폴리에스테르사는 240데니어의 굵기를 가지는 모노필라멘트 폴리에스테르사 1가닥(올)을 12가닥으로 분사하며, 그 분사되어 20데니어의 굵기를 가지는 폴리에스테르사 12가닥 중 2∼3가닥을 서로 500∼800T/M의 꼬임수로 연사하여 40∼60데니어의 굵기를 가지는 폴리에스테르사를 사용하며, 상기 경사로 사용되는 실크 원사의 밀도는 100∼120본/인치이고, 상기 위사로 사용되는 폴리에스테르사의 밀도는 85∼95본/인치로 교직하여 실크 교직물을 제조함을 특징으로 한다. In order to accomplish the above object, the present invention provides a polyester fiber yarn comprising a monofilament polyester yarn (all) having a thickness of 240 denier while using a silk yarn having a denier of 18 to 28 denier as a warp, And 2 to 3 of twelve polyester yarns having a diameter of 20 deniers are twisted at twist numbers of 500 to 800 T / M to produce a polyester yarn having a thickness of 40 to 60 denier And the density of the polyester yarn used as the weft yarn is 85 to 95 yarns / inch to produce a silk woven fabric.

본 발명은 실크 원사와 폴리에스테르사를 사용하여 교직하여 실크의 장점을 유지하면서도 가격 경쟁력을 향상시키며, 세탁(드라이)에 대한 내구성을 강화시켜 후덜거림이나 힘이 없이 축 늘어지는 현상을 줄일 수 있는 장점이 있다. The present invention relates to a silk yarn and a polyester yarn which are woven together to improve the price competitiveness while maintaining the merits of silk and improve the durability against washing (dry) There are advantages.

이하 본 발명의 바람직한 실시 예를 상세히 설명한다. Hereinafter, preferred embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail.

본 발명은 실크사와 폴리에스테르사를 교직하여 실크가 가지는 장점을 유지하면서도 단점들을 보완하며 가격 경쟁력을 향상시킬 수 있는 교직물을 제공한다. The present invention provides a coated fabric capable of improving the price competitiveness while complementing the disadvantages while retaining the advantages of silk by bonding silk yarn and polyester yarn.

교직물을 제직하기 위한 원사를 준비하되 경사는 실크사로 준비하고 위사로 폴리에스테르사를 각각 준비한다. Prepare the yarn to weave the fabric, but prepare the warp yarn as the silk yarn and the polyester yarn as the weft yarn.

상기 경사는 18∼28데니어 굵기의 실크사를 사용하며, 쟈카드 문양 형성시에는 다양한 색상으로 염색 처리하여 사용한다. The warp yarns are made of silk yarns having a denier of 18 to 28 denier, and the yarns are dyed in various colors when forming a jacquard pattern.

위사로 사용되는 폴리에스테르사는 다음과 같이 준비한다. The polyester yarn used as the weft is prepared as follows.

먼저 240데니어의 굵기를 가지는 모노필라멘트 폴리에스테르사 1가닥(올)을 12가닥으로 분사한다. 그에 따라 12가닥으로 분사 각각의 실의 굵기는 240÷12=20의 계산에 따라 20데니어의 굵기를 가지게 된다. First, one strand of monofilament polyester yarn (all) having a thickness of 240 deniers is injected in 12 strands. Accordingly, the thickness of each yarn sprayed into 12 strands has a thickness of 20 denier according to the calculation of 240 ÷ 12 = 20.

그리고 20데니어의 굵기로 분사된 폴리에스테르사 12가닥 중 2∼3가닥을 서로 연사하여 40∼60데니어의 굵기를 가지는 폴리에스테르사를 준비한다. 2∼3가닥을 연사할 때 꼬임수가 500∼800T/M으로 하며 더 바람직하게는 700T/M으로 연사한다. Then, two or three strands of twelve polyester yarns sprayed at a thickness of 20 denier are twisted together to prepare polyester yarn having a thickness of 40 to 60 denier. When twisting 2 to 3 strands, the number of twists is set to 500 to 800 T / M, and more preferably to 700 T / M.

이렇게 준비되는 위사는 강도와 탄력이 있어 쉽게 풀어지거나 훼손되지 않고 오랫동안 원상태를 유지할 수 있으며, 차후 제직되는 교직물이 탄력을 갖도록 해 주고 경·위사 모두 실크로 제직한 직물에 비하여 세탁(드라이)에 대한 내구성을 높여 준다. It is possible to maintain the original shape for a long time without being easily loosened or damaged due to its strength and elasticity, and it is possible to provide the elasticity of the fabric to be woven in the future, It increases durability.

상기 과정을 통해 준비된 폴리에스테르사는 위사로 사용되는 것으로서 경사인 실크사와 교직함에 있어 자카드직기를 통하여 자카드 문양을 형성할 수 있다. The polyester yarn prepared through the above process is used as a weft yarn, and it can form a jacquard pattern through a jacquard loom when it is knitted with an oblique silk yarn.

자카드 문양을 형성하기 위해서는 실크사 및 폴리에스테르사는 다양한 색상으로 염색된 색실을 구비해야 하는바 이를 위해 염색하는 과정을 거친다. In order to form the jacquard pattern, the silk yarn and the polyester yarn have to be colored in various colors, and the yarn is dyed.

특히 위사로 사용되는 폴리에스테르사는 화섬사로서 염색액의 온도가 140℃ 이상이 되어야 염색액이 폴리에스테르사 내로 침투하여 바람직하게 염색이 된다. Especially polyester yarn used as weft yarn is a synthetic fiber, and when the temperature of the dyeing solution is 140 ° C or more, the dyeing solution penetrates into the polyester yarn and is preferably stained.

그리고 염색과정을 거친 폴리에스테르사는 그 후에는 유화제 처리과정을 추가할 수 있다. The polyester yarn after the dyeing process can then be added with an emulsifier treatment process.

유화제 처리는 물로 희석시킨 유화제 액이 든 용기에 폴리에스테르사를 5초 가량 푹 담궜다가 빼내어 30분 가량 자연건조시킨다. For the emulsifier treatment, dip the polyester yarn into the emulsion solution diluted with water for about 5 seconds, remove it, and dry it for about 30 minutes.

유화제는 물과 기름을 서로 섞이게 하는 역할을 하지만 폴리에스테르사를 상기와 같은 방법으로 유화제 처리를 함으로써 부드럽고 매끈하며 촉촉한 감촉을 가지게 된다. 이에 따라 실크사와의 교직시 잘 끊어지지 않고 원활하게 교직이 진행되도록 해준다. The emulsifier serves to mix water and oil, but the polyester yarn is treated with an emulsifier as described above to have a soft, smooth and moist feel. As a result, it is possible to keep teaching profession smoothly without interrupting the teaching with Silk.

유화제를 물로 희석할 때 물 10ℓ당 유화제 0.5∼1.5ℓ정도의 비율로 희석하면 된다. When the emulsifier is diluted with water, it may be diluted at a rate of about 0.5 to 1.5 liters of emulsifier per 10 liters of water.

상기 과정을 통해 준비된 다양한 색실의 경사 및 위사를 사용하여 평직 또는 자카드직(문직) 등으로 제직하여 교직물로 제직한다. The warp and weft yarns of various color chambers prepared in the above process are used to weave in plain weave or jacquard weave (weaving), and weave into weaving.

이때 교직된 원단이 실크 교직물로 인정받기 위해서는 교직된 직물에서 25중량％ 이상의 실크 성분이 포함되어야 하는데, 본 발명에서는 경사로 사용되는 실크 성분이 35∼40중량％이고 위사로 사용되는 폴리에스테르사 성분이 60∼65중량％ 가 되게 구성한다. At this time, in order to be recognized as a silk fabric, the fabric should include at least 25 wt% of silk component. In the present invention, the silk component used as the warp is 35 to 40 wt%, and the polyester fiber component used as the weft yarn 60 to 65% by weight.

상기 실크 성분의 구성 비율을 만족하기 위해서 경사로 사용되는 실크 원사와 위사로 사용되는 폴리에스테르사의 밀도를 각각 경사의 밀도는 100∼120본/인치로 하고, 위사 밀도는 85∼95본/인치로 제직한다.
In order to satisfy the constituent ratio of the silk component, the density of the silk yarn used as the warp yarn and the polyester yarn used as the weft yarn are respectively set at a density of 100 to 120 yarns / inch and a weft density of 85 to 95 yarns / do.

상기 설명드린 바와 같이 본 발명은 경사를 실크사를 사용하고 위사로 폴리에스테르사를 서로 교직함으로써 실크가 가지는 장점을 유지하면서도 가격 경쟁력이 높아 실용적으로 사용될 수 있으며, 경·위사 모두 실크로 제직한 직물에 비하여 세탁(드라이)에 대한 내구성을 높여 후덜거림이나 힘이 없이 축 늘어지는 현상을 줄일 수 있다. As described above, the present invention can be practically used because it has high price competitiveness while maintaining the merits of silk by using a silk yarn and warping polyester yarns with weft yarns, , It is possible to reduce the phenomenon of hanging up without losing smoothness or strength by increasing the durability against washing (dry).

상술한 본 발명의 설명에서는 구체적인 실시 예에 관해 설명하였으나, 여러 가지 변형이 본 발명의 범위에서 벗어나지 않고 실시할 수 있다. 따라서 본 발명의 범위는 설명된 실시 예에 의하여 정할 것이 아니고 특허청구범위 및 그 특허청구범위와 균등한 것에 의해 정해 져야 한다. While the present invention has been described in connection with what is presently considered to be practical exemplary embodiments, it is to be understood that the invention is not limited to the disclosed embodiments. Therefore, the scope of the present invention should not be limited by the described embodiments, but should be determined by the scope of claims and equivalents thereof.

Claims (2)

18∼28데니어 굵기의 실크사를 경사로 사용하고, 폴리에스테르사를 위사로 사용하되 폴리에스테르사는 240데니어의 굵기를 가지는 모노필라멘트 폴리에스테르사 1가닥(올)을 12가닥으로 분사하며, 그 분사되어 20데니어의 굵기를 가지는 폴리에스테르사 12가닥 중 2∼3가닥을 서로 500∼800T/M의 꼬임수로 연사하여 40∼60데니어의 굵기를 가지는 폴리에스테르사를 사용하며, 상기 경사로 사용되는 실크 원사의 밀도는 100∼120본/인치이고, 상기 위사로 사용되는 폴리에스테르사의 밀도는 85∼95본/인치로 교직된 실크사와 폴리에스테르사를 이용한 교직물.
A polyester fiber yarn was used as a warp yarn of 18 to 28 denier in thickness and a polyester yarn was twisted in 12 strands of a monofilament polyester yarn (all) having a thickness of 240 denier, Polyester yarn having a thickness of 40 to 60 denier is used by twisting 2 to 3 strands out of 12 twisted polyester yarns having a denier of 20 denier at a twist number of 500 to 800 T / M, And the density of the polyester yarn used as the weft yarn is 85 to 95 yarns / inch, and the weft yarn is made of silk yarn and polyester yarn.
제1항에 있어
상기 위사로 사용되는 폴리에스테르사는 염색과정과 물로 희석한 유화제 액이 든 용기에 폴리에스테르사를 푹 담궜다가 빼내어 자연건조시키는 추가과정 거치도록 함을 특징으로 하는 실크사와 폴리에스테르사를 이용한 교직물. In claim 1
The polyester yarn used as the weft yarn is characterized in that the polyester yarn is dipped in a container containing the emulsion liquid diluted with water and diluted with water, and then the product is subjected to an additional step of naturally drying the polyester yarn using the silk yarn and the polyester yarn.
KR1020140027351A 2014-03-07 2014-03-07 Using silk and polyeser union cloth KR20150105113A (en)

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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR101666385B1 (en) 2015-12-24 2016-10-14 서영환 Manufacturing method of polyester melting yarn for silk textile
KR20180131107A (en) * 2017-05-31 2018-12-10 방찬현 Fabric for Korean dress

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR101666385B1 (en) 2015-12-24 2016-10-14 서영환 Manufacturing method of polyester melting yarn for silk textile
KR20180131107A (en) * 2017-05-31 2018-12-10 방찬현 Fabric for Korean dress

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