IT201800010740A1 - PROCEDURE TO MAKE AN ARTIFICIAL AND NATURAL POLISHED AND SCENTED PLASTIC FABRIC - Google Patents
PROCEDURE TO MAKE AN ARTIFICIAL AND NATURAL POLISHED AND SCENTED PLASTIC FABRIC Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- IT201800010740A1 IT201800010740A1 IT102018000010740A IT201800010740A IT201800010740A1 IT 201800010740 A1 IT201800010740 A1 IT 201800010740A1 IT 102018000010740 A IT102018000010740 A IT 102018000010740A IT 201800010740 A IT201800010740 A IT 201800010740A IT 201800010740 A1 IT201800010740 A1 IT 201800010740A1
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- IT
- Italy
- Prior art keywords
- phase
- artificial
- fabric
- natural
- sub
- Prior art date
Links
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims description 53
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims description 20
- 239000004033 plastic Substances 0.000 title claims description 9
- 238000010926 purge Methods 0.000 claims description 20
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 claims description 15
- 238000003825 pressing Methods 0.000 claims description 11
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 claims description 9
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 claims description 7
- 239000011347 resin Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- 229920005989 resin Polymers 0.000 claims description 7
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 230000002123 temporal effect Effects 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000004061 bleaching Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000004925 Acrylic resin Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920000178 Acrylic resin Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- CDBYLPFSWZWCQE-UHFFFAOYSA-L Sodium Carbonate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-]C([O-])=O CDBYLPFSWZWCQE-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 240000004784 Cymbopogon citratus Species 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000017897 Cymbopogon citratus Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 241000208152 Geranium Species 0.000 claims description 2
- 244000203593 Piper nigrum Species 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000008184 Piper nigrum Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 240000008530 Rosa canina Species 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000000539 Rosa canina Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000010337 Rosa dumalis Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000019568 aromas Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000013614 black pepper Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000003054 catalyst Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000011248 coating agent Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000000576 coating method Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000002270 dispersing agent Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 230000001804 emulsifying effect Effects 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000003205 fragrance Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- LEQAOMBKQFMDFZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N glyoxal Chemical compound O=CC=O LEQAOMBKQFMDFZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000002304 perfume Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000006200 vaporizer Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000012209 synthetic fiber Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229920002994 synthetic fiber Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 238000004448 titration Methods 0.000 description 2
- 235000015847 Hesperis matronalis Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 240000004533 Hesperis matronalis Species 0.000 description 1
- 230000001419 dependent effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000003599 detergent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000012986 modification Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000004048 modification Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B21/00—Successive treatments of textile materials by liquids, gases or vapours
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C15/00—Calendering, pressing, ironing, glossing or glazing textile fabrics
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C3/00—Stretching, tentering or spreading textile fabrics; Producing elasticity in textile fabrics
- D06C3/02—Stretching, tentering or spreading textile fabrics; Producing elasticity in textile fabrics by endless chain or like apparatus
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Materials Engineering (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
- Prostheses (AREA)
Description
PROCEDIMENTO PER REALIZZARE UN TESSUTO ARTIFICIALE PROCEDURE FOR MAKING AN ARTIFICIAL FABRIC
E NATURALE PLASTICO LUCIDO E PROFUMATO AND NATURAL GLOSSY AND SCENTED PLASTIC
La presente invenzione si riferisce ad un procedimento per realizzare un tessuto con fibra artificiale e naturale, con mano plastica, aspetto lucido e profumato. The present invention relates to a process for making a fabric with artificial and natural fiber, with a plastic hand, shiny and perfumed appearance.
Nello stato della tecnica sono noti procedimenti per fabbricare un tessuto artificiale e naturale comprendente un ordito di cupro (Bemberg™), il cui nome commerciale è Bemberg™ ed una trama di cotone con molteplici utilizzi. In the state of the art, processes are known for manufacturing an artificial and natural fabric comprising a cupro warp (Bemberg ™), whose trade name is Bemberg ™ and a cotton weft with multiple uses.
Nello stato della tecnica sono noti procedimenti per fabbricare tessuti in fibre naturali, in fibre naturali e sintetiche o in fibre sintetiche con mano plastica, lucida, e profumata per realizzare tessuti damascati tipici della cultura africana che vengono detti “bazin”. In the state of the art, processes are known for manufacturing fabrics in natural fibers, in natural and synthetic fibers or in synthetic fibers with a plastic, shiny, and perfumed hand to make damask fabrics typical of African culture which are called "bazin".
Scopo della presente invenzione consiste nel fatto di realizzare un procedimento per realizzare un tessuto tipo “bazin” artificiale e naturale di mano plastica, lucida e profumata arricchendo la tecnica nota e realizzando un tessuto più tridimensionale, traspirante, cangiante e confortevole. The object of the present invention consists in realizing a process for making an artificial and natural "bazin" type fabric with a plastic, shiny and perfumed hand, enriching the known technique and realizing a more three-dimensional, transpiring, iridescent and comfortable fabric.
In accordo con l’invenzione tale scopo è raggiunto con un procedimento secondo la rivendicazione 1. In accordance with the invention, this purpose is achieved with a process according to claim 1.
Altre caratteristiche sono previste nelle rivendicazioni dipendenti. Other features are provided in the dependent claims.
Le caratteristiche ed i vantaggi della presente invenzione risulteranno maggiormente evidenti dalla descrizione seguente, esemplificativa e non limitativa. The characteristics and advantages of the present invention will become more evident from the following, exemplary and non-limiting description.
Un procedimento per realizzare un tessuto artificiale e naturale fabbricato per mezzo di un telaio e di una macchina tessile di tipo Jacquard dove detto tessuto artificiale e naturale comprende un ordito di cupro (Bemberg™) ed una trama di cotone. A process for making an artificial and natural fabric manufactured by means of a loom and a Jacquard-type textile machine where said artificial and natural fabric comprises a cupro (Bemberg ™) warp and a cotton weft.
La fibra artificiale di cupro (Bemberg™) prevede una titolazione compresa tra 22 e 300 dtex, preferibilmente 84 dtex. The artificial cupro fiber (Bemberg ™) provides a titration between 22 and 300 dtex, preferably 84 dtex.
La fibra naturale di cotone comprende una titolazione variabile da NE 20 a NE 120, preferibilmente NE 60/1. The natural cotton fiber comprises a variable titration from NE 20 to NE 120, preferably NE 60/1.
Alternativamente è possibile prevedere che il tessuto artificiale e naturale secondo la presente invenzione comprenda un ordito di cotone ed una trama di cupro (Bemberg™). Alternatively, it is possible to provide that the artificial and natural fabric according to the present invention comprises a cotton warp and a cupro (Bemberg ™) weft.
Un subbio d’ordito del telaio conta un numero di fili compresi tra 5 mila e 20 mila, preferibilmente tra 10 mila e 15 mila. A warp beam of the loom has a number of threads between 5,000 and 20,000, preferably between 10,000 and 15,000.
Di conseguenza il numero il numero di fili di ordito al centimetro è compreso tra 20 e 200, preferibilmente tra 50 e 100. Consequently, the number of warp threads per centimeter is between 20 and 200, preferably between 50 and 100.
Il numero di battute in trama al centimetro è compreso tra 20 e 100, preferibilmente 55. The number of weft strokes per centimeter is between 20 and 100, preferably 55.
L’altezza del tessuto è compresa tra 100 e 500 centimetri, preferibilmente 160 cm. The height of the fabric is between 100 and 500 centimeters, preferably 160 cm.
Il procedimento per realizzare detto tessuto artificiale e naturale comprende operazioni in sequenza temporale: una prima operazione di tessitura ed una seconda operazione di nobilitazione. The process for making said artificial and natural fabric comprises operations in a temporal sequence: a first weaving operation and a second finishing operation.
La prima operazione di tessitura, avviene per mezzo di un telaio che, in combinazione ad una macchina tessile di tipo Jacquard, realizza un tessuto artificiale e naturale greggio. Tale tessuto è costituito da una molteplicità di intrecci tra ordito e trama, detti armature, i quali a loro volta generano disegni di varia fattura. The first weaving operation takes place by means of a loom which, in combination with a Jacquard-type textile machine, creates an artificial and natural raw fabric. This fabric consists of a multiplicity of weaves between warp and weft, called weaves, which in turn generate designs of various invoices.
La seconda operazione di nobilitazione comprende in sequenza temporale una prima fase di purga, una seconda fase di tintura, una terza fase di asciugatura ed una quarta fase di finissaggio. The second finishing operation comprises in a temporal sequence a first purging phase, a second dyeing phase, a third drying phase and a fourth finishing phase.
La prima fase di purga prevede di far passare il tessuto artificiale e naturale greggio in un macchinario detto comunemente purga). In questa fase il tessuto artificiale e naturale greggio passa per una molteplicità di volte in vasche contenenti prodotti detergenti che eliminano qualsiasi residuo presente sul tessuto, in preparazione alle fasi successive. The first phase of purge involves passing the artificial and natural raw fabric into a machine commonly called purge). In this phase the artificial and natural raw fabric passes for a multiplicity of times in tanks containing detergent products that eliminate any residue present on the fabric, in preparation for the subsequent phases.
Nello specifico la prima fase di purga comprende quattro sotto fasi in ordine temporale. Specifically, the first phase of purge includes four sub-phases in chronological order.
Una prima sotto fase della prima fase di purga prevede che il tessuto artificiale e naturale greggio venga immerso in una prima vasca contenente una miscela di acqua a 60°C e tensioattivo emulsionante, preferibilmente Foryl® 1000. A first sub-phase of the first purging phase provides that the artificial and natural raw fabric is immersed in a first tank containing a mixture of water at 60 ° C and emulsifying surfactant, preferably Foryl® 1000.
Una seconda sotto fase della prima fase di purga prevede che il tessuto artificiale e naturale uscito dalla prima sotto fase passi dalla prima vasca ad una seconda vasca contenente una miscela di acqua a 90°C e disperdente, preferibilmente DISPERSING 30. A second sub-phase of the first purging phase foresees that the artificial and natural fabric coming out of the first sub-phase passes from the first tank to a second tank containing a mixture of water at 90 ° C and dispersant, preferably DISPERSING 30.
Una terza sotto fase della prima fase di purga prevede che il tessuto artificiale e naturale greggio uscito dalla seconda sotto fase passi dalla seconda vasca ad una terza vasca contenente una miscela di acqua a 90°C e soda, preferibilmente soda Solvay™. A third sub-phase of the first purging phase foresees that the artificial and natural raw fabric released from the second sub-phase passes from the second tub to a third tub containing a mixture of water at 90 ° C and soda, preferably Solvay ™ soda.
Una quarta sotto fase della prima fase di purga prevede che il tessuto artificiale e naturale uscito dalla terza sotto fase sia soggetto ad un passaggio attraverso un vaporizzatore a 90°C. A fourth sub-phase of the first purging phase foresees that the artificial and natural fabric coming out of the third sub-phase is subjected to a passage through a vaporizer at 90 ° C.
Queste quattro sotto fasi sono ripetute per un ciclo continuo fino ad ottenere un tessuto privo di qualsiasi ausiliario tessile (bozzima, oli di filatura o altro) pronto ad essere inviato alla successiva fase di tintura. These four sub-phases are repeated for a continuous cycle until a fabric is obtained without any textile auxiliary (size, spinning oils or other) ready to be sent to the next dyeing phase.
Le temperature nella fase di purga possono essere comprese in un intervallo compreso tra ±10°C rispetto al valore indicato. The temperatures in the purging phase can be within a range of ± 10 ° C with respect to the indicated value.
La seconda fase di tintura del tessuto artificiale e naturale greggio uscito dalla prima fase di purga comprende in alternativa: The second phase of dyeing of the artificial and natural raw fabric that comes out of the first phase of purge alternatively includes:
a) una sotto fase di tintura per mezzo di coloranti di classe reattiva a) a sub-step of dyeing by means of reactive class dyes
b) una sotto fase di tintura per mezzo di coloranti di classe diretta b) a sub-phase of dyeing by means of direct class dyes
c) una sotto fase che comprende una prima operazione di candeggio ed una seconda operazione di tintura artigianale successiva in sequenza temporale rispetto all’operazione di candeggio. c) a sub-phase which includes a first bleaching operation and a second artisan dyeing operation subsequent in time sequence with respect to the bleaching operation.
La terza fase di asciugatura prevede di far passare il tessuto uscito dalla seconda fase di tintura in una macchina, detta rameuse, che ha lo scopo di far raggiungere al tessuto l’altezza desiderata, pronto ad affrontare il passaggio successivo. The third drying phase involves passing the fabric out of the second dyeing phase in a machine, called stenter, which has the purpose of making the fabric reach the desired height, ready to face the next step.
La quarta fase di finissaggio prevede di sottoporre il tessuto artificiale e naturale uscito dalla terza fase di asciugatura ad operazioni di pressatura, resinatura e profumazione. The fourth finishing phase involves subjecting the artificial and natural fabric that comes out of the third drying phase to pressing, resining and perfuming operations.
L’operazione di pressatura della quarta fase di finissaggio prevede di far passare il tessuto artificiale e naturale uscito dalla terza fase di asciugatura in un macchinario detto calandra. The pressing operation of the fourth finishing phase involves passing the artificial and natural fabric that comes out of the third drying phase in a machine called a calender.
L’operazione di pressatura della quarta fase di finissaggio viene ripetuta per un numero di cicli compreso tra 1 e 3. The pressing operation of the fourth finishing phase is repeated for a number of cycles between 1 and 3.
Il passaggio in calandra prevede che i valori di pressione dei cilindri di schiacciamento (di cui è dotata) siano compresi tra 180 e 500 kg/cm<2>, mentre è previsto che le temperature degli stessi cilindri siano comprese tra 100 e 400°C. The passage in the calender requires that the pressure values of the crushing cylinders (with which it is equipped) are between 180 and 500 kg / cm <2>, while the temperatures of the same cylinders are expected to be between 100 and 400 ° C .
La quarta fase di finissaggio prevede che il tessuto artificiale e naturale venga anche sottoposto ad un’operazione di resinatura e ad un’operazione di profumazione. The fourth finishing phase provides that the artificial and natural fabric is also subjected to a resin treatment and a perfuming operation.
L’operazione di profumazione prevede di aggiungere al tessuto artificiale e naturale profumi, aromi o similari come ad esempio fragranze di rosa canina, pepe nero, geranio, citronella. The perfuming operation involves adding perfumes, aromas or the like to the artificial and natural fabric, such as fragrances of dog rose, black pepper, geranium, lemongrass.
L’operazione di resinatura che avviene durante la pressatura del tessuto artificiale e naturale in calandra, in contemporanea o meno con l’operazione di profumazione, viene eseguita per conferire al tessuto artificiale e naturale una mano plastica e aspetto lucido. The resin treatment that takes place during the pressing of the artificial and natural fabric in the calender, simultaneously or not with the perfuming operation, is performed to give the artificial and natural fabric a plastic hand and shiny appearance.
Per ottenere una mano plastica l’operazione di resinatura prevede un’applicazione sul tessuto artificiale e naturale di una miscela comprendente resina glicossalica, preferibilmente Fixapert Elf, un catalizzatore, preferibilmente NKD e una resina acrilica, preferibilmente Berman ANI. To obtain a plastic hand, the resin coating operation involves applying a mixture including glycoxal resin, preferably Fixapert Elf, a catalyst, preferably NKD and an acrylic resin, preferably Berman ANI, to the artificial and natural fabric.
Per ottenere un aspetto lucido l’operazione di resinatura prevede un’applicazione sul tessuto artificiale e naturale di una miscela comprendente resina acrilica, preferibilmente CERALUBE SVN. To obtain a glossy appearance, the resin treatment involves applying a mixture including acrylic resin, preferably CERALUBE SVN, to the artificial and natural fabric.
Alternativamente è possibile prevedere che detta operazione di resinatura e/o detta operazione di profumazione avvenga in contemporanea con detto ciclo di operazioni di pressatura della quarta fase di finissaggio. Alternatively, it is possible to provide for said resining operation and / or said perfuming operation to take place simultaneously with said cycle of pressing operations of the fourth finishing step.
L’invenzione così concepita è suscettibile di numerose modifiche e varianti, tutte rientranti nell’ambito del concetto inventivo; inoltre tutti i dettagli sono sostituibili da elementi tecnicamente equivalenti. In pratica i materiali utilizzati, nonché le dimensioni, potranno essere qualsiasi a seconda delle esigenze tecniche. The invention thus conceived is susceptible of numerous modifications and variations, all falling within the scope of the inventive concept; furthermore, all the details can be replaced by technically equivalent elements. In practice, the materials used, as well as the dimensions, may be any according to the technical requirements.
Claims (10)
Priority Applications (3)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
IT102018000010740A IT201800010740A1 (en) | 2018-11-30 | 2018-11-30 | PROCEDURE TO MAKE AN ARTIFICIAL AND NATURAL POLISHED AND SCENTED PLASTIC FABRIC |
PCT/IB2019/060034 WO2020109942A1 (en) | 2018-11-30 | 2019-11-21 | Method for creating a woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres, plastic to the touch, glossy and scented |
EP19808906.2A EP3887588B1 (en) | 2018-11-30 | 2019-11-21 | Method for creating a woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres, plastic to the touch, glossy and scented |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
IT102018000010740A IT201800010740A1 (en) | 2018-11-30 | 2018-11-30 | PROCEDURE TO MAKE AN ARTIFICIAL AND NATURAL POLISHED AND SCENTED PLASTIC FABRIC |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
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IT201800010740A1 true IT201800010740A1 (en) | 2020-05-30 |
Family
ID=65767187
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
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IT102018000010740A IT201800010740A1 (en) | 2018-11-30 | 2018-11-30 | PROCEDURE TO MAKE AN ARTIFICIAL AND NATURAL POLISHED AND SCENTED PLASTIC FABRIC |
Country Status (3)
Country | Link |
---|---|
EP (1) | EP3887588B1 (en) |
IT (1) | IT201800010740A1 (en) |
WO (1) | WO2020109942A1 (en) |
Citations (4)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
FR2422751A1 (en) * | 1978-04-10 | 1979-11-09 | Taco Ag | NEW CREPE DE CHINE FABRIC |
GB2074205A (en) * | 1980-04-23 | 1981-10-28 | Ivanov Nii Khlopchatobumazhnoi | Method and unit for finishing treatment of textile materials |
DE4300047C1 (en) * | 1993-01-04 | 1994-06-16 | Kuesters Eduard Maschf | Fabric high finishing - has set content of finishing fluid for fabric spreading for dwell time in steam atmosphere. |
CN102517774B (en) * | 2011-12-12 | 2013-04-10 | 江苏大生集团有限公司 | Antibacterial, deodorant, moisture-wicking, quick-drying and super-cotton-like knitted fabric and production process thereof |
-
2018
- 2018-11-30 IT IT102018000010740A patent/IT201800010740A1/en unknown
-
2019
- 2019-11-21 EP EP19808906.2A patent/EP3887588B1/en active Active
- 2019-11-21 WO PCT/IB2019/060034 patent/WO2020109942A1/en active Search and Examination
Patent Citations (4)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
FR2422751A1 (en) * | 1978-04-10 | 1979-11-09 | Taco Ag | NEW CREPE DE CHINE FABRIC |
GB2074205A (en) * | 1980-04-23 | 1981-10-28 | Ivanov Nii Khlopchatobumazhnoi | Method and unit for finishing treatment of textile materials |
DE4300047C1 (en) * | 1993-01-04 | 1994-06-16 | Kuesters Eduard Maschf | Fabric high finishing - has set content of finishing fluid for fabric spreading for dwell time in steam atmosphere. |
CN102517774B (en) * | 2011-12-12 | 2013-04-10 | 江苏大生集团有限公司 | Antibacterial, deodorant, moisture-wicking, quick-drying and super-cotton-like knitted fabric and production process thereof |
Non-Patent Citations (1)
Title |
---|
SAIK AL MARUF: "Finishing Processes of Textile", 30 July 2013 (2013-07-30), XP055588018, Retrieved from the Internet <URL:https://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2013/07/textile-finishing-processes.html> [retrieved on 20190513] * |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
EP3887588A1 (en) | 2021-10-06 |
EP3887588B1 (en) | 2024-01-24 |
EP3887588C0 (en) | 2024-01-24 |
WO2020109942A1 (en) | 2020-06-04 |
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