Classifications

• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
  • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
  • D02G1/00—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
  • D02G1/16—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics using jets or streams of turbulent gases, e.g. air, steam
  • D02G1/161—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics using jets or streams of turbulent gases, e.g. air, steam yarn crimping air jets
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
  • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
  • D02G1/00—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
  • D02G1/16—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics using jets or streams of turbulent gases, e.g. air, steam
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
  • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
  • D02G1/00—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
  • D02G1/16—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics using jets or streams of turbulent gases, e.g. air, steam
  • D02G1/165—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics using jets or streams of turbulent gases, e.g. air, steam characterised by the use of certain filaments or yarns
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
  • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
  • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
  • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
  • D02G3/34—Yarns or threads having slubs, knops, spirals, loops, tufts, or other irregular or decorative effects, i.e. effect yarns
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
  • D02J—FINISHING OR DRESSING OF FILAMENTS, YARNS, THREADS, CORDS, ROPES OR THE LIKE
  • D02J1/00—Modifying the structure or properties resulting from a particular structure; Modifying, retaining, or restoring the physical form or cross-sectional shape, e.g. by use of dies or squeeze rollers
  • D02J1/08—Interlacing constituent filaments without breakage thereof, e.g. by use of turbulent air streams

Definitions

• This disclosure relates to a process for production of bulked multicomponent yams and to products comprising multicomponent yarns produced from steam texturing in accordance with this process to obtain controlled stretch parameters in the processed yam.
• Nonlimiting examples of fibers for these stretch fabrics include multicomponent yarns such as a bicomponent filament yarn containing PET and PTT polymers
• This conventional bicomponent yam exhibits high shrinkage and retraction when heat is used to activate the differential polymer shrinkage to form permanent bulk.
• Fabric knitting and weaving processes with these yarns are challenging as this large change in yam length reduction must be accommodated to maintain weight control and create a fabric with acceptable appearance and stretch. Unless the yarn is processed through an intermediate transformation step, the
• bicomponent yam is limited to applications which support fabric designs which allow the self- bulking of the yarn to substantially reduce the length of the fiber upon exposure to heat.
• the direct introduction of the bicomponent yam into package dying operations is inefficient due to potential crushing of the tube core and/or insufficient bulk developing under the wound condition when the reduction in length is restricted due to winding conditions. Additionally, it is difficult to get a level amount of color in the package dying process when high yam shrinkage occurs. If the tube core is not crashed by high compression, yarn shrinking on the tube increases the package density to a point that the dye will not flow evenly through the package. This creates uneven relative dye amounts throughout the package resulting in rejects or barre if introduced into fabric.
• This disclosure is related to a process of using steam in a direct impingement method with high overfeed conditions to initiate bulking of multicomponent yams including thermally activated elastomeric filament yarns.
• This pre-development of bulk through entanglement loop generation along with thermal coil generation allows these yams to be processed in knitting or weaving textile processing equipment to provide improved control over stretch properties in the final fabrics.
• a combination of single component yam and bicomponent yam is also possible to reduce the number of yams required in downstream processes and add control of the amount of elongation generated in the final yam.
• the range of yams that can be processed in this manner encompasses the entire range of normal apparel fiber ( ⁇ 600 dtex) and industrial applications (>200 dtex).
• the process allows plying of multiple ends of yam increasing the dtex in the bulking operation to the final level desired with reduced number of feed yam variants.
• the yam can be wound onto cardboard tube or a plastic tube that will allow direct introduction into package dying equipment for fabric applications that require color in the yam prior to the knitting or weaving of the yams.
• an aspect of this disclosure relates to a process for steam jet bulking of multicomponent yams.
• a multicomponent yam is overfed at high rates, for example, greater than 30% overfeed to upper limits in excess of 300%, into an entanglement jet using steam at a pressure of 10 psig or greater as the fluid media to provide partial thermal bulking and entanglement texturing of the multicomponent fiber.
• the resultant product is wound onto a cardboard or plastic tube to allow for direct processing into further textile processing equipment.
• heated water having a temperature above 60°C, in most embodiments between 70-100°C is introduced prior to the entanglement jet.
• multiple feed yams are plied at a point prior to the entanglement jet entrance.
• Another aspect of this disclosure relates to a multicomponent yam prepared from a process for steam jet bulking of multicomponent yams wherein a multicomponent yarn is overfed at high rates into an entanglement jet using steam at a pressure greater than 10 psig as the fluid media to provide partial thermal bulking and entanglement texturing of the
• Another aspect of this disclosure relates to a package of the multicomponent yarn wound on either cardboard paper or plastic tube.
• the wound multicomponent yam package creates bulk through thermal activation that has a percent bulking efficiency (%BE) greater than 15%.
• %BE percent bulking efficiency
• the wound multicomponent yam package creates bulk through thermal activation that has a percent bulking efficiency (%BE) greater than 15%.
• the wound multicomponent yam package creates bulk through thermal activation that has a percent bulking efficiency (%BE) greater than 15%.
• %BE percent bulking efficiency
• multicomponent yam package has a package weight greater than 1 kg.
• Another aspect of this disclosure relates to a stretch fabric knit or woven from a multicomponent yam prepared from a process for steam jet bulking of multicomponent yams wherein a multicomponent yarn is overfed at high rates into an entanglement jet using steam at a pressure greater than 10 psig as the fluid media to provide partial thermal bulking and entanglement texturing of the multicomponent fiber.
• Yet another aspect of this disclosure relates to an article of manufacture comprising a multicomponent yam or stretch fabric of multicomponent yam prepared from a process for steam jet bulking of multicomponent yams wherein a multicomponent yarn is overfed at high rates into an entanglement jet using steam at a pressure greater than 10 psig as the fluid media to provide paid ial thermal bulking and entanglement texturing of the multicomponent fiber.
• FIG. 1 is a diagram outlining a nonlimiting embodiment of this disclosure for a steam texturing process for multicomponent yams.
• This disclosure relates to a multicomponent direct spun fiber having the ability of one of the yams to develop permanent bulk through differential shrinkage which is processed to develop bulk through direct high-pressure steam impingement of the fiber.
• the process for steam jet bulking of multicomponent yarns of this disclosure comprises overfeeding multicomponent yams at a high rate into an entanglement jet using steam as the fluid media and pressure to provide partial thermal bulking through thermal shrinkage and entanglement texturing of the multicomponent fiber.
• Multicomponent yams used in the process may comprise side by side bicomponent or eccentric sheath core bicomponent where the two components exhibit differential shrinkage when exposed to heat, and the shrinkage imparts a coiled structure to the yam. It may be desirable to include one component of the yam which is an elastomeric yam in which the yam length is reduced substantially through thermal shrinkage.
• the components arc a material choice and may include PET and PET where there is a viscosity difference between the two components, PTT and PTT where there is a viscosity difference between the two components, PTT and PET, PET and PBT, nylon and nylon where the two components have differing formulations or viscosity., other material selections known to those of skill in the art may also be used.
• PET and PET where there is a viscosity difference between the two components
• PTT and PTT where there is a viscosity difference between the two components
• PET and PBT PET and PBT
• nylon and nylon where the two components have differing formulations or viscosity.
• other material selections known to those of skill in the art may also be used.
• single component yarns can be combined with bicomponent yarns to produce a combination yam which can create special aesthetic appearances and simplify the number of yam feeders in downstream knitting or weaving processes.
• An example is to combine a PET single partially oriented yarn along with a bicomponent PET / PTT yam to tailor the desired stretch component content having a controlled stretch.
• a second example would be to combine a black PET fully drawn yarn along with a bicomponent PET/PTT yam to create a heather effect.
• multicomponent yam is overfed at a rate of greater than 30%.
• the process used to steam the multicomponent yam for analysis is to lay the length of yam onto a steam table and steam the sample for a minimum of 30 seconds in a relaxed condition.
• the steam pressure used in the process may range from 10 psig up to 60 psig.
• the process further comprises winding the resultant product onto a cardboard or plastic tube to allow for direct processing of the bulked multicomponent yarn into further textile processing equipment.
• the process is aided by introduction of heated water prior to the introduction of steam to maximize the fiber temperature into the shrinkage range and increase entanglement efficiency.
• the water is heated to temperature above 70°C.
• multiple feed yams are plied at a point prior to entering the entanglement jet. This comingling of multiple plies increases the dtex of the feed. For example; if standard products produced used as feed yams include 75 dtex, 150, dtex, 300 dtex, and a product of 450 dtex is desired, one end of 300 and one end of 150 dtex could be added together and plied prior to the introduction to the jet. Plying refers to running two or more ends into the same guide to allow them to run together as one yam for the remainder of a process.
• FIG. 1 A nonlimiting embodiment of equipment which can be used in the process of this disclosure is depicted in FIG. 1.
• stationary creel 1 holds the feed yarn packages and delivers the feed yam to the overfeed roll.
• the feed yarn 2 can be fed as a single package or multiple plies can be comingled to increase the dtex of the feed.
• a driven overfeed roll 3 feeds the yam from rates of 30% to 400% faster than the post jet speed.
• a heated water tank 5 with applicator 4 introduces heated water to the yam.
• a steam supply 6 with regulator controls the steam pressure from 10 psig - 60 psig.
• the equipment further comprises a jet 7 suitable for entanglement such as an air texturing jet.
• Nonlimiting examples include ceramic or metal texturing jets or other entanglement jet designs.
• the equipment comprises a driven puller roll 8 and a standard windup 9 that can wind yam at low tension onto a cardboard or plastic dye tube 10. It may be desired to overfeed multicomponent yarns at a high rate into an entanglement jet using steam as the fluid media and pressure to provide partial thermal bulking and steam bulking of the multicomponent fiber.
• the multicomponent yarn it may be desirable for the multicomponent yarn to be an elastomeric yam in which the yam length is reduced by 20% through thermal shrinkage.
• processing conditions and equipment used can be varied to control the final amount of bulk and stretch to match the desired stretch amount for applications that wish to maintain low to moderate stretch amounts while having excellent recovery properties.
• a wide range of overfeed and steam conditioning ranges can be used to vary the amount of potential bulk development to match the final intended product stretch requirements.
• winding conditions can be varied to allow direct use or to be package dyed directly prior to use in textile fabric processing equipment.
• This disclosure also relates to multicomponent yam prepared from this process for steam jet bulking of multicomponent yarns as well as yam packages, fabrics and articles of manufacture prepared from the yam and fabrics.
• the resultant multicomponent yam prepared from this process contains a high amount of bulk with lower shrinkage which allows subsequent textile processing to be carried out without additional intermediate process steps.
• a key benefit is that larger weight packages can be wound onto plastic or cardboard paper dye tubes and be introduced into package dying equipment.
• the wound multicomponent yam package of this disclosure creates bulk through thermal activation that has a percent bulking efficiency (%BE) greater than 15%.
• the %BE is a significant factor determining whether the product will be able to be processed through a package dye process without excessive additional bulking and shrinkage occurring in the dying process to cause tube crushing or impact liquor flow to cause uneven dying. Success has been obtained when this value is 15% or higher.
• the %BE of products using a bicomponent PTT/PTT fully drawn feed yam in the dtex range of 55 through 600 dtex has produced %BE in the range of 15 to 67%. Packages in this range have been successfully dyed in a package dying process.
• the %BE is used as a correlation factor to control the final elongation of the further processed yam to tailor the product to a desired fabric stretch value.
• the package has a package weight greater than 1 kg.
• the resultant product formed from the bulking operation weighs two kilograms or higher with a low density (low hardness).
• Products produced by this process are useful in package dying for knitting and/or weaving processes and in direct knitting and/or weaving processes where it is desirable to have lower shrinkages through the finishing processes to control stretch properties and fabric weights, and/or to tailor the amount of stretch in the bulked fiber to obtain a target stretch characteristic in the finished fabric form
• the yarn produced by the process of this disclosure is used to knit or weave a stretch fabric.
• the final fabric garments are applicable to apparel end uses of shoes, socks, woven patterned shirts and shorts, and those requiring good fabric stretch and recoveiy using low temperature finishing processes to protect a companion fiber from heat damage.
• the use of the yam in shoe fabric uppers allows the use of a controlled stretch component with high recovery to eliminate the need for low melt yams to lock down the excessive stretch when a spandex yam is used as the stretch engine.
• the bulked yam is also applicable to, industrial application fabrics where the stretch component needs to be stable and not be of spandex form for durability.
• ISL Initial Sample Length Selected for all samples
• SSLF Steamed Shrinkage Length of Bicomponent Feed yam
• SSLB Steamed Shrinkage Length of Bulked yam
• test method would have a 50% Bulking Efficiency value under the following conditions:
• a 165 dtex bicomponent PET/PTT fully drawn yam produces a 2 kg. package size on a plastic dye tube having dimensions of 11.4” x 3”.
• the %BE is 60%.. The process conditions were established as follows:
• a 167 dtex bicomponent of PET/PTT draw false twist textured yam produces a 2 kg. package on aplastic dye tube having dimensions of 11.4” x 3”.
• the %BE is 58%.
• the process conditions were established as follows:
• a 165 dtex bicomponent of PET/PTT fully draw yarn produces a 2 kg. package on a plastic dye tube having dimensions of 11.4” x 3”.
• the %BE is 19%.
• the process conditions were established as follows:

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• Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
• Textile Engineering (AREA)
• Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
• Fluid Mechanics (AREA)
• Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
• Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
• Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Publications (1)

Family

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Family Applications (1)

Country Status (9)

Family Cites Families (32)

• 2019
  • 2019-08-19 CN CN201980055200.8A patent/CN112639185B/zh active Active
  • 2019-08-19 BR BR112021003164-2A patent/BR112021003164A2/pt unknown
  • 2019-08-19 MX MX2021001941A patent/MX2021001941A/es unknown
  • 2019-08-19 WO PCT/US2019/047026 patent/WO2020041175A1/en unknown
  • 2019-08-19 US US17/268,860 patent/US20210238772A1/en not_active Abandoned
  • 2019-08-19 JP JP2021509203A patent/JP2021536534A/ja active Pending
  • 2019-08-19 KR KR1020217008220A patent/KR20210044275A/ko not_active Application Discontinuation
  • 2019-08-19 TW TW108129399A patent/TW202020243A/zh unknown
  • 2019-08-19 EP EP19763136.9A patent/EP3841235A1/de active Pending

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