EP3768885B1 - Vêtement tricoté - Google Patents

Vêtement tricoté Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3768885B1
EP3768885B1 EP19709656.3A EP19709656A EP3768885B1 EP 3768885 B1 EP3768885 B1 EP 3768885B1 EP 19709656 A EP19709656 A EP 19709656A EP 3768885 B1 EP3768885 B1 EP 3768885B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
knitted
stitches
breast
knitting
lines
Prior art date
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EP19709656.3A
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German (de)
English (en)
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EP3768885A1 (fr
Inventor
Anna Obrezkina
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Obrezkina Anna
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Individual
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/246—Upper torso garments, e.g. sweaters, shirts, leotards
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D1/00—Garments
    • A41D1/04—Vests, jerseys, sweaters or the like
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D2500/00—Materials for garments
    • A41D2500/10—Knitted
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/03—Shape features
    • D10B2403/033—Three dimensional fabric, e.g. forming or comprising cavities in or protrusions from the basic planar configuration, or deviations from the cylindrical shape as generally imposed by the fabric forming process

Definitions

  • the invention relates to knitted clothing with three-dimensional textile shaping for body curves, the three-dimensional textile shaping on the knitted part with the body curve or the body curves being achieved in that in the area of a body curve within the knitted part that covers it, a stitch increase corresponding to the curve over several knitting rows on the outside of the middle part of the knitted fabric previously determined on the basis of the body measurements, then maintaining the number of stitches and then a stitch decrease, also here on the outside of the previously determined middle part of the knitted fabric, so that trapezoidal side parts are knitted in, which ensure the three-dimensional design , whereby without a temporary interruption of the knitting process for individual rows of stitches, as in the case of the gusset or lace technique, the knitting process is continued continuously, with the stitch increases and decreases in superimposed positions n of the rows of knitting are done so that they extend along two or four lines running toward the highest point or highest portion of the body curve.
  • Knitted clothing is usually sewn together from the front, back and sleeve parts, which are each knitted separately in the appropriate size and shape. In the case of jackets, two front parts take the place of the front part. However, it is also possible to knit a circular piece instead of a front and back piece, to which the sleeve pieces can then be attached if desired. Regardless of these design options, the knitted fabric's ability to adapt to body curves is only possible to a limited extent. In the case of pronounced body curves, such as large breasts, especially silicone breasts, bellies, especially during pregnancy, or pronounced buttocks, e.g. B. be covered with knitted dresses, this adjustment of the knitted fabric is no longer possible.
  • the knitted fabric becomes stretched and distorted, so that, for example, the neckline and sleeves on a top no longer fit properly and creases form or the garment becomes distorted.
  • the knit fabric then stretches thin over the chest area and can become transparent. It lies against it below the chest no longer attached, but hangs loosely in the stomach and hip area.
  • women with silicone breasts that are disproportionate in relation to the slim body do not want to wear clothes that they have to buy 1 to 2 sizes too big because of the breast, but rather tight-fitting knitwear without the undesirable effects mentioned above in order to show their full potential .
  • the gusset or gusset technique is known, in which stitches are increased or decreased in order to knit a gusset or gusset.
  • the stitches are temporarily stopped on needles in order to then knit on a knitted part that has been knitted in the meantime (which can also be a gusset or gusset), thereby causing a spatial offset of the knitted parts, such as the heel of a sock achieve.
  • gusset or lace technique no larger volume can be knitted around. However, this is required, for example, for breasts, a belly, especially a pregnant belly, or buttocks.
  • gusset or spike technique there are clear marks when knitting on and at the end of the joining, pointed bulges can form in the knitted fabric.
  • FR 986 562 A From the FR 986 562 A is a knitted garment of the type mentioned, in which, however, the stitch increases and decreases are made in immediately consecutive rows of knitting. This creates lines with many large holes between the stitches, which doesn't look appealing. In addition, there is a high tensile force on the threads in this area, so that they tear under heavy loads or when worn for a long time.
  • the invention is therefore based on the object of achieving an optimal three-dimensional textile shape with a large volume in knitted clothing of the type mentioned at the outset, in which the knitted fabric also adapts cleanly to large volumes and optical interruptions in the snuggling of the knitted fabric to the body are avoided, whereby the resulting lines should be less conspicuous with fewer holes between the stitches and the tensile strength of the threads should be reduced.
  • the object is achieved according to the invention in that the stitch increases and decreases are not carried out in immediately consecutive rows of knitting.
  • the advantage of this type of knitting is that it can be optimally adapted to the body shape.
  • the fabric is the same thickness everywhere, equally flexible and nestles perfectly against the body.
  • the stitch increases and decreases always take place on the outside of the previously determined (calculated or determined by trial and error) middle part of the knitted fabric and always in the same place (on the same needle or stitch).
  • the stitching can be increased and decreased according to the respective body shape to replicate the same, even with large volumes such as breasts, buttocks or stomach, exactly and without interrupting the clinging to the body shape.
  • the gusset or spike technique there are no clear traces of knitting, traces of holes or pointed bulges.
  • the stitch increases and decreases are not made in immediately consecutive rows of knitting, the lines that are formed become less conspicuous and there are fewer holes between the stitches. In addition, this reduces the tensile force on the threads, so that the risk of a thread tearing under heavy loads is reduced.
  • how many rows of knitting the stitch increases and decreases are made depends on how big the bulge of the fabric has to be for the corresponding body shape. For a large bulge, which is probably what is usually required, a stitch increase and decrease in every second knitting row is sufficient. As a result, the increase and decrease in stitches in the knitted fabric is visually less noticeable and there is less risk of the thread tearing.
  • the front part is first knitted like a normal sweater, but below the bust, on the side of the edge of the middle piece of the knitted fabric, you start increasing stitches in a straight line upwards every second row, this results in an optical diagonal line in the finished sweater, even if the lines are actually vertical.
  • the desired length is reached, continue to knit each stitch in each row normally, i.e. without increasing or decreasing, over the entire width of the front piece.
  • the same principle can be applied to dresses, skirts and trousers if you knit in a three-dimensional volume for the bottom or - for example in maternity clothes - for the stomach.
  • the knitting technique according to the invention can be used for all sizes of clothing—and adapted to different breast sizes—and can even be designed individually if necessary.
  • the stitch increases and decreases are not or not very noticeable and the disruption of the texture progression is low. Since this knitting method can be programmed into a knitting machine, the work step of making darts is also eliminated. In contrast to the gusset or spike technique, there is no need to temporarily interrupt the knitting process, so that production is simplified.
  • the stitch increases and decreases will be made in superimposed positions (each on the same needle) of the knitting courses so that they extend along two or four lines corresponding to the body curve(s) distributed over the knitted piece.
  • Such line formations have far less impact on the texture than if the stitch increases and decreases were staggered. If these lines are visible - this depends on the yarn composition, stitch size and yarn count - they blend into the image of the garment and can even give it a special touch.
  • the two or four lines run in the direction of the highest point or highest area of the body curvature.
  • the main field of application of the invention is thought to be women's knitwear with three-dimensional textile forming of the front part (for sweaters or knitted dresses) or front parts (for jackets) for the breasts.
  • the front part for sweaters or knitted dresses
  • front parts for jackets
  • This textile shaping can also be used for dresses, skirts and trousers (in the back part for the buttocks).
  • the course of the line of stitch increase and decrease is preferably such that two lines for the body curve of each breast from below and from above in the direction of the highest points of the breasts.
  • the lines on the finished sweater look as if they are slanted, in fact the lines are vertically on top of each other.
  • the optically sloping course of the lines results from the stitch increase and decrease described above.
  • two lines for the body curvature run optically downwards from the outside above and optically diagonally upwards from the outside below in the direction of the highest area of the body curvature. In fact, the lines are superimposed vertically.
  • the knitwear 1 shows as knitwear 1 a pullover in a three-quarter view, ie diagonally from the front.
  • the breast 2' can be seen on the right-hand side as the body curve 2, this being drawn in such a way as it corresponds to the shape when the pullover is worn.
  • the lines 3 for the stitch increase and decrease always run on the outside of a previously determined (calculated or determined by trial and error) center section of the knitted fabric.
  • This middle piece is in the 4 between lines 3', 3" of the right and lines 3', 3" of the left, corresponding to in figure 5 between the lines 3.
  • the stitch increase and decrease always takes place in the same place (on the same needle or stitch).
  • the lines on the right are at the 1 concealed.
  • the breast 2' is indicated only by its highest point 4, towards which the lines 3 of stitch increase and decrease are aligned.
  • This is a top line 3' which ends at or - as drawn - near the seam 10 of the sleeve 7, preferably about 1 cm away, and runs to just before the highest point 4 of the chest 2'.
  • the bottom line 3' also points to the highest point 4 of the breast 2' and, when looking at the pullover, runs obliquely outwards and downwards in the direction of the seam 9 between the front part 5 and the rear part 6 of the pullover.
  • the course of these lines 3 comes about through the stitch increase and decrease of the knit construction according to the invention.
  • This knitted construction can be imagined in such a way that trapezoidal side parts are knitted into an essentially straight area of the front part of the pullover, which ensure the three-dimensional design.
  • a 3-D trapezoidal shape/trapezoidal prism is knitted in.
  • the pullover does not have a trapezoidal shape in the chest area when worn, but due to the flexibility and cuddlyness of the knitted fabric it fits snugly on the chest and adapts to it.
  • the highest shoulder point 8 which is decisive for the placement of the shape design, is also drawn in. Dimensions for the design are based on the description 2 specified.
  • the dimensions refer to the finished knitted garment, as the dimensions of a knitted fabric change when it is taken out of the knitting machine, sewn together and usually washed. When the knitwear is put on, there is of course another change due to an adaptation to the body.
  • the dimensions are preferably within the following ranges:
  • FIG. 3 shows a knitted garment 1, which is designed as a knitted dress.
  • the upper area corresponds to the pullover already described, with the dress having no sleeves for the sake of simplicity of illustration.
  • the knitted parts 5 and 6 of the front part 5 and the rear part 6 are longer according to the length of the dress than in the sweater.
  • the three-dimensional shape for the chest 2' is the same in the same design as the sweater and the shape for the bottom 2" is made in a comparable way.
  • figure 5 shows the knitted dress in a rear view, whereby the course of the lines 3 of the stitch increase and decrease can be seen here, which are each directed towards the region of the highest point when viewed from the outside of the finished dress.
  • This area has a width corresponding to the shape of the body.
  • knitted clothing can also be adapted to a stomach area, for example a pregnancy stomach, in a corresponding manner.
  • the textile shaping for body curves according to the invention could of course also be used for other areas, for example for the waist and hip area in a dress which is produced in a circular knitting process.
  • various variations of the invention are conceivable, the decisive feature being that the third dimension 3-D trapezoidal shape/trapezoidal prism can be incorporated within a concrete knitted part.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
  • Corsets Or Brassieres (AREA)

Claims (6)

  1. Vêtement tricoté (1) avec formation textile tridimensionnelle pour les courbures du corps (2, 2', 2"),
    dans lequel la formation textile tridimensionnelle sur la partie tricotée (5, 6) avec la courbure du corps (2, 2', 2"),respectivement les courbures du corps (2, 2', 2") est obtenue en ce qu'au niveau d'une courbure du corps (2, 2', 2") à l'intérieur de la partie tricotée (5, 6) qui couvre celle-ci, il y a augmentation des mailles sur plusieurs rangées de tricot conformément à la courbure sur l'extérieur de la pièce centrale du tricot définie au préalable sur la base des mesures du corps, puis un maintien du nombre de mailles et enfin une diminution des mailles, là aussi sur l'extérieur de la pièce centrale du tricot définie au préalable sur la base des mesures du corps, de sorte que des parties latérales trapézoïdales sont ainsi tricotées qui veillent à la mise en forme tridimensionnelle, dans lequel sans une interruption temporaire de l'opération de tricotage pour différentes rangées de mailles, comme dans la technique de gousset, l'opération de tricotage est poursuivie en continu, dans lequel les augmentations et diminutions de mailles sont effectuées dans des positions des rangées de tricot en superposition, de sorte qu'elles s'étendent le long de deux ou quatre lignes (3) qui vont en direction du point le plus élevé ou de la partie la plus élevée (4) de la courbure du corps (2, 2', 2"),
    caractérisé en ce que
    les augmentations et diminutions de mailles ne sont pas effectuées dans des rangées de tricot directement consécutives.
  2. Vêtement tricoté selon la revendication 1,
    caractérisé en ce que
    les augmentations et diminutions de mailles sont effectuées dans une rangée de mailles sur deux.
  3. Vêtement tricoté selon la revendication 1 ou 2,
    caractérisé en ce qu'
    il s'agit d'un vêtement tricoté avec formation textile tridimensionnelle du devant (5) ou des devants pour les seins (2').
  4. Vêtement tricoté selon la revendication 3,
    caractérisé en ce que
    respectivement deux lignes (3', 3") pour la courbure de corps (2) d'un sein (2') partent du bas, respectivement du haut, en direction des points les plus hauts (4) des seins (2').
  5. Vêtement tricoté selon la revendication 4,
    caractérisé en ce qu'
    au niveau de la poitrine du devant (5) ou des devants du vêtement fini, les dimensions sont situées dans les plages suivantes :
    dimension (11) du point d'épaule le plus haut (8) jusqu'à la courbe de niveau à laquelle la ligne supérieure de buste (3') commence, qui commence à environ 1 cm de distance de la couture (10) des manches (7), entre 14 et 18 cm,
    dimension (12) de la longueur supérieure de la ligne de buste (3') entre 5 et 20 cm,
    dimension (13) de la longueur de la ligne de buste inférieure (3") entre 5 et 20 cm,
    dimension (14) de la distance entre les extrémités des lignes supérieure (3') et inférieure (3") de buste au niveau à proximité du point le plus haut (4) du buste (2') entre 1 et 10 cm,
    dimension (15) de la distance entre les lignes (3' et 3") sur leurs extrémités éloignées du buste (2') entre 10 et 30 cm et
    dimension (16) de l'extrémité basse de la ligne inférieure de buste (3") à la couture (9) entre le devant (5) et le dos (6) entre 2 et 8 cm.
  6. Vêtement tricoté selon l'une des revendications 1 à 4,
    caractérisé en ce que
    des deux côtés de la courbure du corps (2), respectivement deux lignes (3) pour les courbures du corps (2) comme les fesses (2") ou le ventre partent en aval et en amont en direction de la partie la plus haute (4) de la courbure du corps (2, 2").
EP19709656.3A 2018-03-20 2019-03-01 Vêtement tricoté Active EP3768885B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102018106524.8A DE102018106524B3 (de) 2018-03-20 2018-03-20 Strickbekleidung
PCT/EP2019/055162 WO2019179750A1 (fr) 2018-03-20 2019-03-01 Vêtement tricoté

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3768885A1 EP3768885A1 (fr) 2021-01-27
EP3768885B1 true EP3768885B1 (fr) 2022-05-11

Family

ID=65717974

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP19709656.3A Active EP3768885B1 (fr) 2018-03-20 2019-03-01 Vêtement tricoté

Country Status (7)

Country Link
US (1) US20210010174A1 (fr)
EP (1) EP3768885B1 (fr)
AU (1) AU2019238834A1 (fr)
CA (1) CA3094000A1 (fr)
DE (1) DE102018106524B3 (fr)
DK (1) DK3768885T3 (fr)
WO (1) WO2019179750A1 (fr)

Families Citing this family (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
USD961190S1 (en) * 2019-11-22 2022-08-23 Alexis Ezio Giannotti Pullover garment
CN111621913B (zh) * 2020-06-06 2021-08-10 针知运纺织科技(上海)有限公司 一种夹底的平拷方法

Family Cites Families (14)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE185326C (fr) * 1900-01-01
GB399591A (en) * 1932-05-09 1933-10-12 Julius Rompler Ag Improvements in or relating to looped fabrics and garments made from the same
FR986562A (fr) * 1949-03-12 1951-08-02 Procédé de tricot
US3103111A (en) * 1962-06-07 1963-09-10 Hawthorne Knitting Mills Inc Body bulge receiving cup and method of making same
US3500665A (en) 1968-02-16 1970-03-17 Alamance Ind Inc Full-fashioned brassiere and blank
US3789098A (en) 1971-06-11 1974-01-29 Int Playtex Corp Methods and apparatus for constructing knitted brassiere blanks and brassieres
US3802229A (en) * 1972-04-10 1974-04-09 Pilot Res Corp Seamless garment with partial and full course fashioning and method
DE3937406C2 (de) 1989-11-10 1998-04-16 Stoll & Co H Verfahren zur Herstellung einer dreidimensional geformten Maschenware auf einer Flachstrickmaschine
JP2568362B2 (ja) * 1992-11-24 1997-01-08 株式会社ワコール 衣 服
US5592836A (en) * 1994-05-03 1997-01-14 Alba-Waldensian, Inc. Circularly knit brassiere having knit-in-lift and support panels, and a blank and method for making same
CA2542654C (fr) * 2003-10-15 2012-12-04 Thomas Lutz Vetement comportant des zones de compression
ITTV20110120A1 (it) * 2011-09-02 2013-03-03 Bencom S R L Articolo di maglieria, o parte di esso, e metodo di realizzazione relativo
DE102015115228B3 (de) * 2015-09-10 2016-09-15 Medi Gmbh & Co. Kg Flachgestrick in Form eines das Gesäß umfassenden Hosenteils, kompressive Hose umfassend ein solches Flachgestrick sowie Verfahren zur Herstellung eines solchen Flachgestricks
US10415164B2 (en) * 2017-05-02 2019-09-17 Nike, Inc. Upper-torso garment with three-dimensional knit structures

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
US20210010174A1 (en) 2021-01-14
CA3094000A1 (fr) 2019-09-26
DE102018106524B3 (de) 2019-08-01
EP3768885A1 (fr) 2021-01-27
WO2019179750A1 (fr) 2019-09-26
DK3768885T3 (da) 2022-08-08
AU2019238834A1 (en) 2020-11-12

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