EP3720567A1 - Neues verfahren zur verminderung der effekte von blaulichtinduziertem stress auf die haut - Google Patents

Neues verfahren zur verminderung der effekte von blaulichtinduziertem stress auf die haut

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Publication number
EP3720567A1
EP3720567A1 EP18821722.8A EP18821722A EP3720567A1 EP 3720567 A1 EP3720567 A1 EP 3720567A1 EP 18821722 A EP18821722 A EP 18821722A EP 3720567 A1 EP3720567 A1 EP 3720567A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
equal
weight
water
oil
mass
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP18821722.8A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Virginie ANCHARTECHAHAR
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Societe dExploitation de Produits pour les Industries Chimiques SEPPIC SA
Original Assignee
SERDEX SAS
Societe dExploitation de Produits pour les Industries Chimiques SEPPIC SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by SERDEX SAS, Societe dExploitation de Produits pour les Industries Chimiques SEPPIC SA filed Critical SERDEX SAS
Publication of EP3720567A1 publication Critical patent/EP3720567A1/de
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9794—Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a method for preventing or slowing the appearance of signs of aging of human skin or lips generated by the oxidative stress caused by exposure to blue light, or for eliminating said signs, comprising at least one application step on human skin or on the lips of a cosmetic formulation for topical use comprising a plant extract of the species Hedychium coronarium.
  • Human skin is the first image offered in the eyes of others, and therefore, the improvement of its appearance is a subject of constant concern for human beings.
  • the skin is a reflection of a state of well-being, often associated with youth, and conversely to a state of fatigue and / or aging.
  • Skin aging is therefore a concern for humans and more particularly for consumers of cosmetic products who are looking for solutions to mitigate and / or prevent the visible manifestations of said aging.
  • This cutaneous aging is observed at the level of the different cutaneous tissues and is characterized by metabolic, functional, cellular, architectural and tissue alterations, leading to visible external effects characterized by the appearance and increase of wrinkles, by a dull complexion. , by a lack of uniformity of the complexion (phenomenon of dyschromism), or by a modification of the texture and the properties, in particular biomechanical, of the skin of the human body.
  • Skin aging results from factors that are specific to each individual (characteristics of each individual's genetic heritage) and from environmental factors.
  • environmental factors that can cause skin aging include repeated and prolonged exposure to the sun, especially exposure to ultraviolet radiation, exposure to air pollution, cigarette smoke, various oxidative stress that may result among other factors previously mentioned, as well as psychological, emotional and nervous stress.
  • the repeated and prolonged exposure of human skin to sunlight, and more particularly to ultraviolet radiation leads to a form of aging that is commonly called photo-aging.
  • This photo-aging is well documented in the scientific literature and it causes alterations of the skin at different levels, one of the most well-known skin alterations is solar elastosis, which is characterized by profound changes in the architecture and the organization of the elastic fibers of the dermis. These modifications lead to a characteristic appearance of these skins which present very deep wrinkles and marked, inducing a tanned skin appearance, namely stiff, cracked and burnished, as well as changes in their mechanical properties.
  • ROS reactive oxygen species
  • the so-called “photodynamic” technique has been described as particularly suitable for rejuvenation (ie the reduction of wrinkles and fine lines, pigmentation spots, etc.) of the so-called “photo-exposed” skin, namely the skin exposed to solar radiation. , and more particularly to ultraviolet radiation.
  • the mechanism by which this technique acts has recently been studied (4), and it turns out that its mode of action includes an increase in the fibroblastic population and an increase in the migratory capacity of said fibroblasts.
  • an improvement in the migratory properties of fibroblasts in the dermis of human skin and / or an increase in the fibroblastic population constitute a means of preventing and / or treating aging of the skin of the body. and, more particularly, to prevent and / or treat the visible effects of said aging, for example wrinkles, dullness, lack of uniformity of the complexion (dyschromia), rigidity of the skin of the human body, caused by aging. natural or by prolonged exposure to the sun, especially exposure to ultraviolet radiation, or exposure to oxidative stress.
  • Blue light represents part of the visible light and is characterized by a wavelength range of between 380 nanometers and 500 nanometers, and thus constitutes most of the light transmitted by the sun in the visible spectrum.
  • ROS reactive oxygen species
  • the French patent application published under the publication number FR 2895257 A1 also discloses the existence of cellular damage caused to the skin and more particularly to the eyelids by the light rays of wavelengths of the visible spectrum and more particularly those close to the blue, and the use of a lipophilic antioxidant, such as vitamins, pro-vitamins, carotenoids, retinoids, unsaponifiables, polyunsaturated fatty acids and glycyrrhetinic acid, to maintain and / or enhance the protective native function and restorative lipophilic structures of the eye contour.
  • a lipophilic antioxidant such as vitamins, pro-vitamins, carotenoids, retinoids, unsaponifiables, polyunsaturated fatty acids and glycyrrhetinic acid
  • Hedychium is a genus of flowering plants belonging to the ginger Zingiberaceae family. There are about seventy to eighty known species, from Southeast Asia (Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia, Philippines, etc.), southern China, Himalayas and Madagascar. Some species have become widely acclimatized in other countries (South Africa, South America, Central America, West Indies and many islands in the Pacific, Indian and Atlantic oceans).
  • the genus name Hedychium is derived from two ancient Greek words, hedys meaning "sweet” and chios meaning "snow”. This refers to the fragrant white flower of the type species Hedychium coronarium. Common names include garland flower, ginger lily, and kahili ginger.
  • Hedychium are perennial rhizomatous plants, which usually grow to a height of 120 cm to 180 cm tall. Some species are cultivated for their exotic foliage and for their fragrant flower spikes in shades of white, yellow and orange. Many crops have also been developed for use in garden making. Among the species used are, for example, Hedychium aurantiacum, Hedychium coccineum, Hedychium coronarium, Hedychium densiflorum, Hedychium ellipticum (ginger peel), Hedychium flavescens, Hedychium gardnerianum (ginger), Hedychium samuiense and Hedychium spicatum called kapur kachari in Hindi.
  • the species differ from each other in their biological taxonomy and in many cases also in their origin.
  • Hedychium coronarium also called “ginger butterfly” was first described in 1783 by Johann Gerhard Koenig in the book by Andrea Johan Retzius "Observationes Botanicae” t. 3 pages 73-74.
  • Hedychium spicatum also known as "wild ginger” was first recorded by James Edward Smith (181 1), then described by Francis Buchanan-Hamilton in 1819 in the works of Abraham REES " the Cyclopaedia; Science and Literature. T 17, p.521-522.
  • Hedychium has been widely described for use in traditional medicine as for example in “Edible Medicinal and Non Medicinal Plants", Vol. 8 Flowers, pages 853-860 “or in” Medicinal Plants Used by Women of the Agnalazaha Coastal Forest (Southeast of Madagascar) ", Journal of Ethno Biology and Ethno medicine, 2013 as well as by X. Yan, and "Chinese Medicines, Molecular Structures, Natural Sources and Applications", 1999 or by Sharma et al., "Phytochemistry", 14: 578, 1975.
  • compositions comprising Hedychium extracts and the associated cosmetic uses.
  • Said international application particularly describes the use of the species Hedychium spicatum and more particularly its activity in the regulation of the firmness, tone or texture of the skin.
  • said application describes particularly the use of the species Hedychium spicatum and in the treatment of environmental damage of the skin, based on the inhibition of UV-induced metalloproteinase-1 secretion (MMP-1), preventing the loss of thiols induced by the smoke to protect glutathione in the endogenous cellular antioxidant defense system and inhibiting the production of nitric oxide as a precursor to the formation of harmful oxygen species (ROS) reagents.
  • MMP-1 UV-induced metalloproteinase-1 secretion
  • the Brazilian patent application BR PI0905586-0 A2 describes the cosmetic use of extracts of Hedychium coronarium, derived from the flowers of the plant, to moisturize, revitalize and regenerate the skin.
  • an anti-aging effect due to the high concentration of flavonoids in the flowers, is mentioned as well as an anti-inflammatory and anti-peroxidative activity, as well as a strengthening of micro-vessels and capillaries, and the property to combat the formation of edema and photo-induced erythema.
  • the invention relates to a method for the purpose of preventing or slowing down the appearance of signs of aging of human skin or lips generated by the oxidative stress caused by the exposure to blue light, or else to eliminate said signs, comprising at least one step of application to human skin or to the lips, of a cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) comprising for 100% of its mass:
  • composition (Ci) comprising for 100% of its mass: a) - from 90% to 99% by weight, more particularly from 95% to 99% by weight, and even more particularly from 97% to 99% by weight of at least one composition (C 2 ) comprising for 100% of its own mass :
  • n represents an integer greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 6, and
  • extract (EX) denotes a composition derived from the extraction of the same part or from several parts of the plant of the species Hedychium coronarium.
  • the present invention is a mixture of chemical substances isolated from the part or parts extracted from the plant of the species Hedychium coronarium.
  • the subject of the invention is the process as defined above and in which the extract (EX) is an extract of the plant of the species Hedychium coronarium from flowers, seeds, fruits, leaves, stems, roots and / or rhizomes, and more particularly roots and / or rhizomes of said species plant Hedychium coronarium.
  • blue light is meant within the meaning of the present invention natural or artificial radiation, characterized by wavelengths greater than or equal to 380 nanometers and less than or equal to 500 nanometers, more particularly greater than or equal to 450 nanometers and less than or equal to 500 nanometers, and even more particularly greater than or equal to 450 nanometers and less than or equal to 480 nanometers.
  • blue light exposure denotes that the average daily duration of exposure to blue light as defined above is greater than or equal to 4 hours / day and less than or equal to 12 hours / day, more particularly greater than or equal to 4 hours / day and less than or equal to 6 hours / day.
  • oxidative stress (or “oxidative stress”) is meant within the meaning of the present invention a human physiological state for which there is an imbalance between the antioxidants and pro-oxidant free radicals; the latter being reactive oxygen species ("ROS”), whose excess production in human skin, or the lips, especially from oxygen present in the mitochondria, was caused by the exposure thereof to external stress such as exposure to blue light as defined above.
  • ROS reactive oxygen species
  • signals of aging of the human skin or lips is meant within the meaning of the present invention, any changes in the external appearance of the skin or the lips due to aging, such as wrinkles and fine lines, the deterioration of microrelief, lack of elasticity and / or tone of the skin, lack of density and / or firmness of human skin or lips, but also any internal changes in the skin that do not systematically result in an appearance modified exterior, such as any internal damage to the skin resulting from exposure to ultraviolet radiation.
  • the invention relates to the method as defined above, for which the oxidative stress is caused to the exposure of the natural blue light, characterized by a radiation of wavelengths greater than or equal to 380 nanometers and less than or equal to 500 nanometers, more particularly greater than or equal to 450 nanometers and less than or equal to 500 nanometers, and even more particularly greater than or equal to 450 nanometers and less than or equal to 480 nanometers.
  • the subject of the invention is the process as defined above, for which the oxidative stress is caused at the exposure of the artificial blue light, characterized by a radiation of wavelengths greater than or equal to 380 nanometers and less than or equal to 500 nanometers, more particularly greater than or equal to 450 nanometers and less than or equal to 500 nanometers, and even more particularly greater than or equal to 450 nanometers and less than or equal to 480 nanometers.
  • artificial blue light in the sense of the present invention the blue light as defined above generated by devices comprising at least one light emitting diode (or “LED” or “Light Emitting Diode” in English), such as communication equipment with screens lit by “LED”, tactile or not, such as mobile phones or “smartphone” in English, tablets, computers, televisions; lighting lamps for residential and office interiors, neon signs and billboards.
  • LED light emitting diode
  • LED Light Emitting Diode
  • cosmetic formulation (F1) includes any substance or preparation intended to be placed in contact with the various parts of the human body (epidermis, hair system and capillary, nails, lips and genitals) or with the teeth and oral mucosa in view, exclusively and mainly, to clean, perfume, modify the appearance and / or correct body odor and / or protect them or keep them in good condition.
  • n represents an integer greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 4, more particularly greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 3 .
  • the subject of the invention is the process as defined above and in which n represents an integer equal to 1.
  • the subject of the invention is the process as defined above and characterized in that said signs of aging of the human skin or of the lips are wrinkles, fine lines or an alteration of the microrelief of the human skin or of the skin. lips.
  • the subject of the invention is the process as defined above and characterized in that the said signs of aging of the human skin or of the lips are the lack of elasticity and / or tone of the human skin or of the skin. lips.
  • the subject of the invention is the process as defined above and characterized in that the said signs of aging of the human skin or of the lips are the lack of density and / or firmness of the human skin or the lips. .
  • the extract (EX) of the plant of the Hedychium coronarium species, included in the formulation (Fi) used in the process which is the subject of the present invention, can be prepared by the process comprising:
  • step a) of the process for the preparation of the extract (EX) described above the required amount of roots and / or rhizomes of the plant Hedychium coronarium species, is introduced into the tank in ground or cut form.
  • step a) of the process for preparing the extract (EX) previously described the solvent (S) is chosen from the group consisting of:
  • m is an integer greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 8;
  • n represents an integer greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 6, and
  • Chloroform water, aqueous solutions of strong acids such as aqueous solutions of hydrochloric acid, aqueous solutions of strong bases such as soda solutions.
  • the solvent (S) is more particularly chosen from the group consisting of ethanol, 1-propanol, isopropanol and glycerol.
  • propylene glycol water, and more particularly among ethanol, mixtures of water and ethanol, mixtures of water and glycerol.
  • step a) is preferably carried out in the presence of a water / ethanol mixture (50/50 v / v), and in proportions of 1 kg of roots. and / or rhizomes of the plant species Hedychium coronarium, for 10 dm 3 of the previously described solvent mixture.
  • step b) of the process for preparing the extract (EX) previously described the conventional filtration techniques known to those skilled in the art can be applied to obtain the filtrate (M 2 ) from the mixture (Mi) previously obtained.
  • step c) of the process for preparing the extract (EX) previously described the separation of the solids obtained after sedimentation and the supernatant (M 3 ) can be carried out by conventional techniques known to those skilled in the art.
  • step d) of the process for preparing the extract (EX) previously described the filtration of the supernatant (M3) is carried out in order to obtain a solution (Si) which is brighter than the supernatant (M3) and is carried out according to conventional techniques. known to those skilled in the art.
  • step e) of the process for preparing the extract (EX) previously described adjusting the solution (Si) to a solvent (S) or to a solvent mixture (S) to obtain the extract (EX) is carried out by the use of solvents (S) described above and more particularly with a mixture of water and glycerol in which, for 100% of its mass, the water represents a proportion by volume of between 10% and 90% preferably between 20% and 80%, and still more preferably 30%, and the glycerol represents a proportion by volume of between 90% and 10%, preferably between 80% and 20%, and even more preferably 70%.
  • the cosmetic formulations for topical use (F) used in the process which is the subject of the present invention as defined above are generally in the form of aqueous or hydro-alcoholic or hydro-glycolic solutions, in the form of a suspension. , an emulsion, a microemulsion or a nanoemulsion, whether of water-in-oil, oil-in-water, water-in-oil-in-water or oil-in-water type. water-in-oil, or in the form of a powder.
  • They may be packaged in a vial, in a device of the "vial” pump type, in pressurized form in an aerosol device, in a device provided with a perforated wall such as a grid or in a device provided with a ball applicator ( says “roll-on").
  • the cosmetically acceptable excipients present in the cosmetic formulation for topical use (F) used in the process that is the subject of the present invention as defined above are chosen from the substances and / or chemical compositions usually in the field of formulations for topical use, such as foaming and / or detergent surfactants, thickening and / or gelling surfactants, thickening and / or gelling agents, stabilizing agents, film-forming compounds, solvents and co-solvents, hydrotropic agents, thermal or mineral waters, plasticizers, emulsifiers and co-emulsifiers, opacifying agents, pearlescent agents, superfatting agents, sequestering agents, chelating agents, oils, waxes, perfumes, essential oils, preservatives, conditioners, sunscreens, mined fillers particles or pigments, particles providing a visual effect or intended for the encapsulation of active substances, exfoliating particles, texture agents, optical brighteners, repellents for insects.
  • foaming and / or detergent surfactants thickening and
  • foaming and / or detergent surfactants that can be combined with the composition (Ci) in the cosmetic formulation for topical use (F) used in the process which is the subject of the present invention as defined above, mention may be made of anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic foaming and / or detergent surfactants.
  • foaming and / or detergent anionic surfactants that can be combined with the composition (Ci) in the topical cosmetic formulation (Fi) used in the process which is the subject of the present invention as defined above, one mention may be made of alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, amine, or aminoalcohol, alkyl ether sulphate, alkyl sulphate, alkylamidoether sulphate, alkylaryl polyether sulphate, monoglyceride sulphate or alpha salts.
  • olefinsulfonates paraffin sulfonates, alkylphosphates, alkyletherphosphates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alkylcarboxylates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, alkylsarcosinates, acylisethionates, N-acyltaurates, acyllactylates, N-acyl derivatives of amino acids, N-acyl derivatives of peptides, Na derivatives Cells of proteins or N-acyl derivatives of fatty acids.
  • foaming and / or detergent amphoteric surfactants which can be combined with the composition (Ci) in the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) used in the process which is the subject of the present invention as defined above, one mention may be made of alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, sultaines, alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines, imidazoline derivatives, phosphobetaines, amphopolyacetates and amphopropionates.
  • foaming and / or detergent cationic surfactants which can be combined with the composition (Ci) in the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) used in the process which is the subject of the present invention as defined above, one mention may be made especially of quaternary ammonium derivatives.
  • compositions (C 3 ) represented by the formula (IV):
  • R 3 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical which may comprise at least one hydroxyl function, and comprising from 8 to 14 carbon atoms
  • G 3 represents the remainder of a reducing sugar and r represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 5, said composition (C 3 ) consisting of a mixture of the compounds of formulas (IV1), (IV2), (IV 3 ), (IV 4 ) and (IV 5 ) :
  • compositions (C 3 ) represented by the formula (IV) there may be mentioned more particularly those for which R 3 represents an alkyl radical chosen from the group consisting of the n-octyl radical, the n-decyl radical, the n-dodecyl radical, the n-tetradecyl radical, and for which G 3 represents the residue of a reducing sugar chosen from the rest of glucose, xylose and arabinose.
  • the thickening and / or gelling surfactants that can be associated with the composition (Ci) in the cosmetic formulation for topical use (F) used in the process which is the subject of the present invention as defined above, it is possible to mention the optionally poly (alkoxylated) alkyl polyglycoside fatty esters, such as the ethoxylated methylpolyglucoside esters such as PEG 120 methyl glucose trioleate and PEG 120 methyl glucose dioleate respectively marketed under the names GLUCAMATE TM LT and GLUMATE TM DOE120; alkoxylated fatty esters such as PEG 150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate marketed under the name CROTHIX TM DS53, PEG 55 propylene glycol oleate sold under the name ANTIL TM 141; fatty chain polyalkylene glycol carbamates such as PPG-14 laureth isophoryl dicarbamate marketed under the name ELFACOS TM
  • stabilizing agents that can be associated with the composition (Ci) in the cosmetic formulation for topical use (F) used in the process which is the subject of the present invention as defined above, mention may be made of the microcrystalline waxes, and more particularly ozokerite, mineral salts such as sodium chloride or magnesium chloride, silicone polymers such as polysiloxane polyalkyl polyether copolymers.
  • hydrotropic agents that can be associated with the composition (Ci) in the cosmetic formulation for topical use (F) used in the process that is the subject of the present invention as defined above, mention may be made of the xylene sulphonates, cumene sulphonates, hexyl polyglucoside, (2-ethyl hexyl) polyglucoside, n-heptyl polyglucoside.
  • opacifying agents and / or pearlescent agents that can be associated with the composition (Ci) in the cosmetic formulation for topical use (F) used in the method that is the subject of the present invention as defined above
  • texture agents that can be associated with the composition (Ci) in the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) used in the process that is the subject of the present invention as defined above, mention may be made of N-acylated derivatives of amino acids, such as lauroyl lysine marketed under the name AMINOHOPE TM LL, octenyl starch succinate sold under the name DRYFLO TM, myristyl polyglucoside marketed under the name MONTANOV TM 14, fibers cellulose, cotton fibers, chitosan fibers, talc, sericite, mica.
  • AMINOHOPE TM LL octenyl starch succinate sold under the name DRYFLO TM
  • myristyl polyglucoside marketed under the name MONTANOV TM 14
  • fibers cellulose, cotton fibers, chitosan fibers, talc, sericite, mica such as lauroyl lysine marketed under the name AMINOHOPE TM
  • the subject of the invention is the process as defined above, characterized in that the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) is in the form of a gel and comprises for 100% of its mass:
  • At least one thickening agent selected from the group consisting of by the branched and / or cross-linked polymers (P), polysaccharides consisting solely of monosaccharides, polysaccharides consisting of monosaccharides, cellulose, cellulose derivatives,
  • branched and / or crosslinked polymers is meant in the sense of the present invention a homopolymer or a polymer formed from several different types of monomers bearing at least one ethylenic function, such as a copolymer, a terpolymer or a tetrapolymer.
  • the term "connected polymer” denotes, for the polymer (P), a nonlinear polymer which has pendant chains so as to obtain, when this polymer is dissolved in water, a strong entanglement state leading to very low gradient viscosities for the solution thus thickened.
  • crosslinked polymer denotes, for the polymer (P), a non-linear polymer which, when added to water, is in the state of a three-dimensional network insoluble in water. water, but inflatable with water and leading then to obtaining a chemical gel.
  • the polymer (P) is a crosslinked polymer.
  • the polymer (P) is derived from the polymerization of monomers as defined above and described below, and in the presence of at least one diethylenic or polyethylene crosslinking monomer (AR).
  • the crosslinking monomer (AR) is chosen from the group consisting of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, diethylene glycol diacrylate, ethylene glycol diacrylate, diallyl urea, triallylamine and trimethylol propanetriacrylate. methylenebis (acrylamide) or a mixture of these compounds, diallyoxyacetic acid or a salt thereof such as sodium diallyloxyacetate, or a mixture of these compounds.
  • the crosslinking monomer (AR) is chosen from the group consisting of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, triallylamine, trimethylol propanetriacrylate and methylenebis (acrylamide).
  • the crosslinking monomer (AR) when the polymer (P) is crosslinked, is used in molar proportions less than or equal to 0.5%, more particularly less than or equal to 0.25% more preferably less than or equal to 0.1%, more particularly less than or equal to 0.05%, and most preferably greater than or equal to 0.005% and less than or equal to 0.05%.
  • the polymer (P) is a homopolymer of a monomer having at least one ethylenic function and a weak acid function, partially or totally salified.
  • the weak acid function of the monomer containing it is in particular the carboxylic acid function, partially or totally salified.
  • Said monomer can be, for example, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, fumaric acid, partially or totally salified. It is preferably the acrylic acid partially or totally salified in the form of an alkali metal salt such as for example the sodium salt or the potassium salt, ammonium salt or a salt of an amino alcohol as for example the salt of monethanolamine.
  • the present invention is a homopolymer of acrylic acid and more particularly the sodium or ammonium salt of acrylic acid, resulting from a polymerization reaction in the presence of a crosslinking agent (AR ) selected from triallylamine, trimethylol propanetriacrylate, methylene-bis (acrylamide).
  • a crosslinking agent selected from triallylamine, trimethylol propanetriacrylate, methylene-bis (acrylamide).
  • the polymer (P) is a homopolymer of a monomer having at least one ethylenic function and a strong acid function, partially or totally salified.
  • the strong acid function of the monomer containing it is in particular the sulphonic acid function or the phosphonic acid function, partially or totally salified.
  • Said monomer may be, for example, partially or totally salified styrenesulphonic acid. It is preferably 2-methyl-2 - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid partially or totally salified in the form of an alkali metal salt such as, for example, the sodium salt or the salt potassium, ammonium salt or a salt of an amino alcohol such as for example the salt of monethanolamine.
  • an alkali metal salt such as, for example, the sodium salt or the salt potassium, ammonium salt or a salt of an amino alcohol such as for example the salt of monethanolamine.
  • the monomer having a strong acid function is 2-methyl-2 - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid, and more particularly the sodium or potassium salt.
  • the polymer (P), present in the topical cosmetic formulation (Fi) used in the process which is the subject of the present invention as defined above is a homopolymer of the 2-methyl-2 - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid, and more particularly the sodium or ammonium salt of 2-methyl-2 - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid, resulting from a polymerization reaction in the presence of a crosslinking agent (AR) selected from triallylamine, trimethylol propanetriacrylate, methylene-bis (acrylamide).
  • a crosslinking agent (AR) selected from triallylamine, trimethylol propanetriacrylate, methylene-bis (acrylamide).
  • the polymer (P), present in the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) used in the method which is the subject of the present invention as defined above, is:
  • a copolymer of 2-methyl-2 - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt or ammonium salt, and a neutral monomer selected from the group consisting of acrylamide, (2-hydroxyethyl) acrylate, (2-hydroxyethyl) methacrylate, vinylpyrrolidone, N, N-dimethylacrylamide, N-isopropylacrylamide, tris (hydroxy-methyl) acrylamido methane (THAM), hydroxyethylacrylamide,
  • a terpolymer of 2-methyl 2 - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt or ammonium salt
  • acrylic acid or methacrylic acid partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt or ammonium salt
  • a neutral monomer selected from the group consisting of acrylamide, (2-hydroxyethyl) acrylate, (2-hydroxyethyl) methacrylate, vinylpyrrolidone, N, N-dimethylacrylamide, N-isopropylacrylamide, tris (hydroxy-methyl) acrylamido methane (THAM), hydroxyethylacrylamide,
  • terpolymer of 2-methyl-2 - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt or ammonium salt, and a neutral monomer selected from the group consisting of acrylamide, (2-hydroxyethyl) acrylate, (2-hydroxyethyl) methacrylate, vinylpyrrolidone, N, N-dimethylacrylamide, N-isopropylacrylamide, tris (hydroxy-methyl) acrylamido methane (THAM), hydroxyethylacrylamide, and a monomer of formula (V):
  • the polymer (P), present in the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) used in the method which is the subject of the present invention as defined above is: a copolymer of 2-methyl-2 - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulphonic acid, partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt or of ammonium salt, and of acrylate ( 2-hydroxyethyl), resulting from a polymerization reaction in the presence of a crosslinking agent (AR) chosen from triallylamine, trimethylol propanetriacrylate, methylenebis (acrylamide),
  • AR crosslinking agent chosen from triallylamine, trimethylol propanetriacrylate, methylenebis (acrylamide)
  • terpolymer of 2-methyl-2 - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -propanesulphonic acid partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt or ammonium salt, N, N-dimethylacrylamide and partially or totally salified acrylic acid in the form of sodium salt or ammonium salt, resulting from a polymerization reaction in the presence of a crosslinking agent (AR) chosen from triallylamine, trimethylol propanetriacrylate, methylene bis (acrylamide).
  • AR crosslinking agent chosen from triallylamine, trimethylol propanetriacrylate, methylene bis (acrylamide).
  • the polymer (P), present in the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) used in the method which is the subject of the present invention as defined above may be chosen from the products marketed under the brand names SIMULGEL TM EG, SIMULGEL TM EPG,
  • SIMULGEL TM 600 SIMULGEL TM NS, SIMULGEL TM INS 100, SIMULGEL TM FL,
  • SIMULGEL TM A SIMULGEL TM SMS 88, SEPIGEL TM 305, SEPIGEL TM 501, SEPINOV TM EMT 10, SEPINOV TM WEO, SEPIPLUS TM 400, SEPIPLUS TM 265, SEPIPLUS TM S, SEPIMAX TM Zen, SEPIMAX TM C, ARISTOFLEX TM AVC,
  • thickening agents that may be associated with the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) in the form of a gel, and used in the process that is the subject of the present invention as defined above, mention may be made of the polysaccharides consisting solely of monosaccharides, such as glucans or homopolymers of glucose, glucomannoglucans, xyloglycans, galactomannans which are polymers whose main chain consists of D-mannose units, linked together in b-1, 4 and on which D-galactose units are grafted laterally by ⁇ -1, 6 linkages.
  • monosaccharides such as glucans or homopolymers of glucose, glucomannoglucans, xyloglycans, galactomannans which are polymers whose main chain consists of D-mannose units, linked together in b-1, 4 and on which D-galactose units are grafted laterally by ⁇ -1, 6 linkages.
  • DS degree of substitution
  • the thickening agent present in the topical cosmetic formulation (Fi) used in the process which is the subject of the present invention as defined above is chosen from the elements of the group. consisting of guar gum, tara gum, glucans.
  • thickening agents that may be associated with the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) in the form of a gel, and used in the process that is the subject of the present invention as defined above, mention may be made of the polysaccharides consisting of saccharide derivatives, and more particularly:
  • Sulphated galactans which are galactose polymers which may have pendant ester-sulfate groups, represented in particular by algal polysaccharides such as carrageenans and agar;
  • Uronans which are the uronic acid polymers such as algin and pectin;
  • heteropolymers of oses and uronic acids often of complex composition, these polymers are found in sap exudates (such as exudate of gum arabic and exudate of karaya gum) but they are also produced by microorganisms, such as, for example, xanthan gum and gellan gum;
  • Glucosaminoglycans which are polysaccharides formed from glucose derived by replacing its hydroxyl on C-2 with an amine (called 2-amino-2-deoxy-D-glucose or, more simply, glucosamine).
  • the amine function may be acetylated.
  • hydrocolloids in this class are chitosan, formed solely of glucosamine units, and hyaluronan, the repeat unit of which is a dimer of glucosamine and glucuronic acid.
  • the thickening agents which are polysaccharides derived from monosaccharides, and which can be more particularly associated with the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) in the form of a gel, and used in the process which is the subject of the present invention as defined above, are gum acacia and gum acacia.
  • xanthan gum denotes a polysaccharide synthesized by bacteria of the genus Xanthomonas and, in particular, the species X. campestris.
  • the main chain of the xanthan gum is identical to that of the cellulose, that is to say that it is formed of bD-glucose units connected by the carbons 1 and 4.
  • Xanthan gum (GX) is available as a salt of sodium, potassium or calcium.
  • acacia gum denotes a branched complex polysaccharide whose main chain consists of units of B-galactose linked together by carbons 1 and 3.
  • the chains connected to the main chain consist of units of b-galactose interconnected by carbons 1 and 6, also bearing units of ⁇ -arabinose, and in smaller proportions of ⁇ -glucoronosyl units.
  • Both the main chain and the pendant chains contain ⁇ -L-arabinosyl, ⁇ -L-rhamnopyranosyl, ⁇ -D-glucuronopyranosyl and 4-O-methyl-D-glucuronopyranosyl units.
  • Thickening agents which are cellulose derivatives, and which can be more particularly associated with the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) in the form of a gel, and used in the process which is the subject of this invention. as defined above, are methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose.
  • the water that can be associated with the cosmetic formulation for topical use is in the form of a gel, and used in the process that is the subject of the present invention, such as defined above, is a thermal or mineral water with a mineralization of at least 300 mg / l, in particular Avene water, Vittel water, Vichy basin water, water of Uriage, the water of La Roche Posay, the water of the Bourboule, the water of Enghien-les-Bains, the water of Saint-Gervais-les Bains, the water of Néris-les-Bains, the water of Allevard-les-Bains, the water of Digne, the water of the Maizieres, the water of Neyrac-les-bains, the water of Lons le Saunier, the water of Rochefort, the water of Saint Christau, the water of Fumades and the water of Tercis-les-bains.
  • a new organic solvent such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-propanediol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, xylitol, erythritol, sorbitol.
  • the subject of the invention is the process as defined above, characterized in that the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) is in the form of an oil-in-water type emulsion, and comprises for 100% of its mass:
  • PA aqueous phase
  • oils that can be associated with the cosmetic formulation for topical use is in the form of an oil-in-water type emulsion and used in the process that is the subject of the present invention, we can cite :
  • linear alkanes such as, for example, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, tetradecane, pentadecane, hexadecane, heptadecane, octadecane, nonadecane, branched alkanes having from 12 to 40 carbon atoms, as for example 2-methyl undecane (or isododecane), 2-methyl tetradecane (or isopentadecane), 2-methyl pentadecane (or isohexadecane), 2-methyl hexadecane (or isoheptadecane), 2-methyl heptadecane (or isooctadecane), 2-methyl octadecane (or isononadecane), 2-methyl nonadecane (or isoeicosane),
  • 2-methyl undecane or isododecane
  • 2-methyl tetradecane or isopentadecane
  • white mineral oils mixtures of alkanes containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, and which are obtained by distillation of the oil and by the implementation of subsequent processing steps such as, for example, the steps of desulfurization, deasphalting, extraction of aromatic compounds, extraction of waxes, and other finishing treatment steps, among which mention may be made of the mineral oils marketed under the tradenames Marcol TM 52, Marcol TM 82, Drakeol TM 6VR, Eolane TM 130, Eolane TM 150,
  • hemisqualane or 2,6,10-trimethyl-Dodecane, CAS number: 3891 -98-3
  • squalane or 2,6,10,15,19,23-hexamethyltetracosane
  • hydrogenated polyisobutene or polydecene hydrogen
  • fatty alcohol di-ethers such as, for example, the group consisting of dioctyl ether, didecyl ether, didodecyl ether, dodecyl octyl ether, dihexadecyl ether, (1,3-dimethyl butyl) tetradecyl ether, (1,3-dimethylbutyl) hexadecyl ether, bis (1,3-dimethylbutyl) ether, dihexyl ether,
  • mono-esters of fatty acids and alcohols for example the elements of the group consisting of methyl laurate, ethyl laurate, propyl laurate, isopropyl laurate, butyl laurate and laurate; 2-butyl, hexyl laurate, methyl cocoate, ethyl cocoate, propyl cocoate, isopropyl cocoate, butyl cocoate, 2-butyl cocoate, hexyl cocoate, methyl myristate, ethyl myristate, propyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, butyl myristate, 2-butyl myristate , hexyl myristate, octyl myristate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, propyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl palmitate, 2-butyl palmitate, palmitate, hexyl, octyl
  • vegetable oils such as phytosqualane, sweet almond oil, coconut oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, corn germ oil, soybean oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil , pumpkin oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, rye oil, safflower oil,nadooulier oil, passionflower oil , hazelnut oil, palm oil, shea butter, apricot kernel oil, calophyllum oil, sysymbrium oil, avocado oil, calendula, oils derived from flowers or vegetables vegetable oils ethoxylated;
  • phytosqualane such as phytosqualane, sweet almond oil, coconut oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, corn germ oil, soybean oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil , pumpkin oil, evening primrose oil, millet
  • esters derived from lanolic acid such as isopropyl lanolate, isocetyl lanolate,
  • silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, amine-modified silicones, fatty acid-modified silicones, alcohols-modified silicones, alcohol-modified silicones and fatty acids, modified silicones, polyether groups, modified epoxy silicones, silicones modified with fluorinated groups, cyclic silicones and silicones modified with alkyl groups.
  • oil denotes compounds and / or mixtures of compounds which are insoluble in water and are in a liquid aspect at a temperature of 25 ° C.
  • waxes which may be associated with the topical cosmetic formulation (Fi), it is in the form of an oil-in-water type emulsion and used in the process which is the subject of the present invention.
  • the term "wax” denotes compounds and / or mixtures of compounds which are insoluble in water and which have a solid appearance at a temperature greater than or equal to 45 ° C.
  • Oil-in-water type emulsifying surfactant present in the topical cosmetic formulation (Fi) in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and used in the process of the present invention, denotes the chemical substance or mixture of chemical substance which makes it possible to stabilize the droplets of the oil and / or wax dispersed in the continuous aqueous phase comprising water and the composition (Ci) such than previously defined.
  • an oil-in-water emulsifying surfactant present in the topical cosmetic formulation (Fi) in the form of an oil-in-water type emulsion as defined above there may be mentioned for example:
  • the polysorbates resulting from the ethoxylation reaction between a molar equivalent of sorbitan esters and between 5 and 20 molar equivalents of ethylene oxide, and more particularly between a molar equivalent of sorbitan laurate, or of sorbitan palmitate; , or sorbitan stearate, or sorbitan isostearate, or sorbitan oleate, and between 5 and 20 molar equivalents of ethylene oxide;
  • a molar equivalent of a fatty acid such as, for example, palmitic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, and between 5 to 200 molar equivalents of ethylene oxide;
  • a fatty acid such as, for example, palmitic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid and between 4 to 20 molar equivalents, more particularly between 3 to 10 molar equivalents of glycerol;
  • R 4 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical which may comprise at least one hydroxy function, and comprising from 14 to 36 carbon atoms
  • G 4 represents the remainder of a reducing sugar and r 'represents a number decimal greater than or equal to 1, 05 and less than or equal to 5, said composition (C 4 ) consisting of a mixture of the compounds of formulas (Vi), (V 2 ), (V 3 ), (V 4 ) and (V 5 ): R 4 -O- (G 4 ) 1H (VI),
  • the subject of the invention is the process as defined above, characterized in that the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprises at least one an oil-in-water type emulsifying surfactant which is a member of the group consisting of a mixture of ethoxylated stearic acid with 120 moles of ethylene oxide and glycerol monostearate, and a composition (C 4 ), or a composition mixture (C 4 ), represented by formula (V):
  • R 4 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical which may comprise at least one hydroxyl function, and comprising from 12 to 22 carbon atoms
  • G 4 represents the remainder of a reducing sugar and r 'represents a number decimal greater than or equal to 1, 05 and less than or equal to 5, said composition (C 4 ) consisting of a mixture of the compounds of formulas (Vi), (V 2 ), (V 3 ), (V 4 ) and (V 5 ):
  • the subject of the invention is the process as defined above, characterized in that the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprises at least one an oil-in-water type emulsifying surfactant which is a mixture of ethoxylated stearic acid with 120 moles of ethylene oxide and of glycerol monostearate, and more particularly that marketed under the brand name SIMULSOL TM 165 or under brand name Arlacel TM P135.
  • an oil-in-water type emulsifying surfactant which is a mixture of ethoxylated stearic acid with 120 moles of ethylene oxide and of glycerol monostearate, and more particularly that marketed under the brand name SIMULSOL TM 165 or under brand name Arlacel TM P135.
  • G 4 represents the remainder of a reducing sugar chosen from glucose, dextrose, sucrose, fructose, idose, gulose , galactose, maltose, isomaltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, xylose, arabinose, lyxose, allose, altrose, dextran and tallose.
  • the said G 4 residue is more particularly chosen from glucose, xylose and arabinose.
  • G 4 represents the remainder of a reducing sugar chosen from glucose, xylose and arabinose, and r 'represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.5; this decimal number is in this case often less than or equal to 2.0, and for example greater than or equal to 1, 25 and less than or equal to 2.0.
  • R 4 represents a saturated linear alkyl radical chosen from the group consisting of the n-tetradecyl radical, the n-hexadecyl radical, the n-octadecyl radical, the oleyl radical, the n-eicosyl radical, the n-dodecosyl radical
  • G 4 represents the residue of a reducing sugar chosen from glucose, xylose and arabinose
  • the subject of the invention is the process as defined above, characterized in that the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) is in the form of an oil-in-water type emulsion, and in which the emulsifying surfactant of oil-in-water type is a mixture (M 4 I) of compositions (C 4 ) as defined above, said mixture (M 4 I) comprising for 100% of its mass:
  • the topical cosmetic formulation (Fi) is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, and in which the surfactant emulsifying active type oil-in-water is a mixture (M 41 ) of compositions (C 4 ) is that marketed under the brand name Montanov TM 202.
  • the subject of the invention is the process as defined above, characterized in that the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) is in the form of an oil-in-water type emulsion, and in which the emulsifying surfactant of oil-in-water type is a mixture (M 4 2) of compositions (C 4 ) as defined above, said mixture (M 4 2) comprising for 100% of its mass:
  • the topical cosmetic formulation (Fi) is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, and in which the surfactant Emulsifier oil-in-water type is a mixture (M 4 2) of compositions (C 4 ) is that marketed under the brand name Montanov TM 68.
  • the subject of the invention is the process as defined above, characterized in that the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) is in the form of an oil-in-water type emulsion, and in which the emulsifying surfactant of oil-in-water type is a mixture (M 4 3) of compositions (C 4 ) as defined above, said mixture (M 4 3) comprising for 100% of its mass:
  • composition (C 4 ) represented by the formula (V), for which R 4 represents the n-eicosyl radical and / or the n-docosyl radical, G 4 represents the rest of the glucose, and r 'represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.5,
  • composition (C 4 ) represented by the formula (V), for which R 4 represents the n-dodecyl radical and / or the n-tetradecyl radical, G 4 represents the remainder of the glucose, and r 'represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1, 05 and less than or equal to 2.5,
  • the process as defined above characterized in that the cosmetic formulation for topical use (F) is in the form of an oil-in-water type emulsion, and in which the surfactant oil-in-water type emulsifying agent is a mixture (M43) of compositions (C4) is that marketed under the brand name Montanov TM L.
  • aqueous phase (PA) present in the cosmetic formulation for topical use (F) in the form of an oil-in-water type emulsion and used in the process which is the subject of the present invention, designates the phase comprising at least water, tap water, spring water, or a thermal or mineral water having a mineralization of at least 300 mg / L as described above, and optionally comprising a water-soluble organic solvent such as, for example, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-propanediol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, xylitol, erythritol , sorbitol.
  • a water-soluble organic solvent such as, for example, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-propanediol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, xylitol,
  • the subject of the invention is the process as defined above, characterized in that the cosmetic formulation for topical use (F) is in the form of a water-in-oil type emulsion, and comprises for 100% of its mass:
  • aqueous phase (PA1) present in the cosmetic formulation for topical use (F) in the form of a water-in-oil type emulsion and used in the process that is the subject of the present invention, designates the phase corresponding to the same definition as the phase (PA).
  • oil and wax present in the cosmetic formulation for topical use (F) in the form of a water-in-oil type emulsion and implemented
  • the oils and the waxes as defined and described above are designated for the production of the formulation (F1) in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.
  • Water-in-oil type emulsifying surfactant present in the topical cosmetic formulation (Fi) in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion and used in the process of the present invention, denotes the chemical substance or the mixture of chemical substances which makes it possible to stabilize the droplets of water or of aqueous phase dispersed in oil and / or wax, the continuous aqueous phase (PAi) comprising water and the composition (Ci) as defined above.
  • emulsifying surfactant of water-in-oil type present in the topical cosmetic formulation (Fi) in the form of a water-in-oil type emulsion as defined above there may be mentioned for example:
  • sorbitan laurate for example that sold by the company SEPPIC under the brand name Montane TM 20, sorbitan palmitate, for example that marketed by the company SEPPIC under the brand name Montane TM 40 sorbitan stearate, for example that marketed by the company SEPPIC under the brand name Montane TM 60, sorbitan oleate, for example that marketed by the company SEPPIC under the brand name Montane TM 80, sorbitan sesquioleate as for example that marketed by the company SEPPIC under the brand name Montane TM 85, sorbitan trioleate, for example that marketed by the company SEPPIC under the trade name Montane TM 83, sorbitan isolaurate, isostearate of sorbitan, for example that marketed by the company SEPPIC under the brand name Montane TM 70, mannitan laurate, mannitan oleate, or a mixture of these est
  • formula (VII) in which y'2 represents an integer greater than or equal to 0 and less than or equal to 10, more particularly greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 10 and Z'2 represents a radical of formula (VII) as defined above, with Z2 'the same or different from Z2, or the hydrogen atom.
  • a water-in-oil emulsifying surfactant of formula (VI) present in formulation (F1) mention may be made of the PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate marketed under the trade name SIMALINE TM WO by the company SEPPIC, or the mixtures comprising PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate and sold under the trade names SIMALINE TM IE 201 A and SIMALINE TM IE 201 B by the company SEPPIC; the composition (C5), or a mixture of composition (C5) represented by the formula (VIII):
  • G5 represents the rest of the xylose and r "represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 5, said composition (C5) consisting of a mixture of the compounds of formulas (VIIh), (VIII2), ( VIII3) (Viiu) and (VIII 5):
  • Gs represents the rest of xylose
  • r represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 5, and more particularly greater than or equal to 1, 0.5 and less than or equal to 2.5, and even more particularly greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.0
  • Rs represents a radical selected from the group consisting of the 2-octyl decyl radical, the 2-hexyl dodecyl radical, the 2-octyl dodecyl radical.
  • the subject of the invention is the process as defined above, characterized in that the emulsifying surfactant of the water-in-oil type included in the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) is in the form of a water-in-oil type emulsion is a composition (Cs) or a mixture of composition (Cs), represented by the formula (VIII) in which Gs represents the rest of the xylose, r "represents a higher decimal number or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.0, and R 5 represents the 2-octyl dodecyl radical.
  • the subject of the invention is the process as defined above, characterized in that the emulsifying surfactant of the water-in-oil type included in the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) is in the form of a water-in-oil type emulsion is chosen from the group consisting of:
  • composition (Cs) being a compounds of the formulas (Vllh), (VIII 2), (VIII3) (VIIL) and (Vllls):
  • the subject of the invention is the process as defined above in which the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi), which may be in any physical form, and more particularly in the form of a gel or an oil-in-water type emulsion or a water-in-oil type emulsion as described above, also comprises at least one cosmetic active ingredient.
  • the cosmetic formulation for topical use which may be in any physical form, and more particularly in the form of a gel or an oil-in-water type emulsion or a water-in-oil type emulsion as described above, also comprises at least one cosmetic active ingredient.
  • active principles that may be present in the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi), used in the process that is the subject of the present invention, there are:
  • Vitamins and their derivatives for example, retinol (vitamin A) and its esters (retinyl palmitate for example), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its esters, ascorbic acid sugar derivatives (by for example, ascorbyl glucoside), tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (for example tocopherol acetate), vitamins B3 or B10 (niacinamide and its derivatives);
  • VEGEWHITE TM GATULINE TM, SYNERLIGHT TM, BIOWHITE TM, PHYTOLIGHT TM, DERMALIGHT TM, CLARISKIN TM, MELASLOW TM, DERMAWHITE TM, ETHIOLINE, MELAREST TM, GIGAWHITE TM, ALBATIN TM, LUMISKIN TM;
  • N-acylated proteins N-acylated proteins, N-acylated peptides, for example MATRIXIL TM; N-acyl amino acids; partial hydrolysates of N-acylated proteins; amino acids; peptides; total hydrolysts of protein;
  • Vegetable extracts rich in polyphenols tannins and / or isoflavones for example grape extracts, pine extracts, wine extracts, olive extracts; soy extracts, for example Raffermine TM; wheat extracts for example TENSINE TM or GLIADINE TM; plant extracts rich in terpenes; freshwater or marine algae extracts; marine extracts in general such as corals;
  • Compounds having an energizing or stimulating property such as Physiogenyl TM, panthenol and its derivatives such as SEPICAP TM MP;
  • Anti-aging active ingredients like SEPILIFT TM DPHP, LIPACIDE TM PVB, SEPIVINOL TM, SEPIVITAL TM, MANOLIVA TM, PHYTO-AGE TM, TIMECODE TM; SURVICODE TM;
  • the active agents increasing the synthesis of the components of the extracellular matrix, for example collagen, elastins, glycosaminoglycans;
  • Active ingredients that create a sensation of "heating” on the skin such as activators of cutaneous microcirculation (for example nicotinic acid derivatives) or products that create a sensation of "freshness” on the skin (for example menthol and drifts) ;
  • the active agents improving the cutaneous microcirculation for example the venotonic ones; draining assets; decongestant active ingredients, for example extracts of ginko biloba, ivy, horse chestnut, bamboo, ruscus, small holly, centalla asiatica, fucus, rosemary, willow;
  • Tanning agents or skin browning agents for example dihydroxyacetone, isatin, alloxane, ninhydrin, glyceraldehyde, mesotartaric aldehyde, glutaraldehyde, erythrulose.
  • organic solar filters possibly present in the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi), implemented in the method that is the subject of the present invention, mention may be made of all those appearing in cosmetic directive 76/768 / EEC modified Annex VII; as those of the families of the benzoic acid derivatives such as para-aminobenzoic acids (PABA), in particular the monoglycerol esters of PABA, the ethyl esters of N, N-propoxy PABA, the ethyl esters of N, N-diethoxy PABA ethyl esters of N, N-dimethyl PABA, methyl esters of N, N-dimethyl PABA, butyl esters of N, N-dimethyl PABA; anthranilic acid derivatives such as homomenthyl-N-acetyl anthranilate; salicylic acid derivatives such as amyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate, ethylhexyl salicylate, phenyl salicylate
  • inorganic screens which can be associated with the topical formulation (Fi) used in the process that is the subject of the present invention, mention may be made of titanium oxides and zinc oxides. , cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, iron oxides yellow, red or black, chromium oxides. These inorganic screens may or may not be micronized, have undergone or not surface treatments and may be presented in the form of aqueous or oily pre-dispersions.
  • a root extract of Hedychium coronarium is prepared according to the method described above.
  • step (a) ground roots (rhyzomes) of Hedychium coronarium, having an average length of 10 centimeters, are introduced into a suitable extraction tank, then a water / ethanol mixture (50/50 v / v ) is added as extraction solvent and two extraction sequences are conducted.
  • step (b) the extraction mixture is filtered using conventional filtration techniques.
  • step (c) the filtrate of step (b) is concentrated by isolating the solid residues, followed by decantation of the supernatant.
  • step (d) the supernatant of step (c) is filtered by the implementation of conventional filtration techniques.
  • step (e) the adjustment of the clarity of the solution obtained at the end of step (d) is carried out in order to reach a concentrated solution at 20 g / l in a mixture of water and glycerol. in a glycerol / water ratio of (v / v), followed by additional filtration to obtain a final extract at the desired concentration of 2.0% (w / v).
  • a) - The objective of the study is to evaluate the effects of a root extract of Hedychium coronarium (HCR extract) on the autophage activity and the integrity of its lysosomal network of fibroblasts irradiated with light blue at a wavelength of 453 nanometers.
  • HCR extract Hedychium coronarium
  • step b) the pretreated cells were irradiated with blue light and the test products were brought into contact with the irradiated cells for a further 24 hours; e) the lysosomes are then revealed by the use of a specific reactive compound .
  • NEF normal human fibroblasts
  • Lysosomes are cytoplasmic organelles that allow the recycling of cellular materials that have exceeded their life time or are no longer useful.
  • autophagy or heterophagy Their main function is to digest endogenous or exogenous substrates in all eukaryotic cells (called autophagy or heterophagy).
  • Lysosomes cut off non-useful cell products, fats or lipids, carbohydrates, proteins and other macro-molecules into simple, small-sized compounds, which are then transferred to the cytoplasm of a new, young cell.
  • the lipid membrane contains many enzymes, proton pumps and protein transporters.
  • the acidity of the pH is regulated to allow a minimal activity of acid hydrolases.
  • the fluorescent technique "Lyso Tracker” makes it easy to label in living cells (a "fluophore” is bound to a weak base, partially protonated at neutral pH). This characteristic allows the marking to be very selective with respect to acidic organelles (or lysosomes). Then, it allows to measure the effects of the radiation of the blue light. Indeed, these radiations generate the formation of free radicals which affect the lysosomal network, in its distribution in the cellular space. These phenomena can then be visualized by a specific fluorescent "LysoTracker" developer.
  • autophagy is meant the cellular process in eukaryotic cells that allows the digestion of materials in vacuoles associated with the lysosome. Thus, lysosomes can directly incorporate cytoplasmic fragments. Autophagy is an important mechanism that allows the cell to mobilize its energy reserve to defend itself or destroy damaged organelles and thus avoid serious future complications. It is necessary for the survival of the cell and is involved in the control of longevity, aging mechanisms (8) (9) .
  • the MDC reagent is specific to vacuoles and specifically and quantitatively determines the autophage activity (10) .
  • the cells used for the study come from normal human fibroblast culture (NHF), obtained after a plastic surgery on a human subject voluntary donor of 28 years (Caucasian woman) were cultivated in primary monolayers,
  • HCR extract Hedychium coronarium roots
  • Normal human fibroblasts were seeded at 96 wells in microplates (cell density of 10,000 cells per well, ie 30,000 NHF / cm 2 ) 24 hours before treatment with HCR extract. the HCR extract is then applied to the 96 microplate wells previously prepared and left for 24 hours,
  • each well is then irradiated with blue light at a wavelength of 453 nanometers (40 J / cm 2 , 23 mW / cm 2 for 29 minutes);
  • the fibroblasts (NHF) are then treated with the HCR extract for 24 hours,
  • fibroblast cells are then inoculated with a complementary medium (Dulbecco modified with Eagle medium medium or DMEM (Gibco 41966), with antibiotics (Gibco 15140) and 10% with fetal vial serum or FBS (Gibco 10270)
  • a complementary medium Dulbecco modified with Eagle medium medium or DMEM (Gibco 41966), with antibiotics (Gibco 15140) and 10% with fetal vial serum or FBS (Gibco 10270)
  • the treatments with the HCR extract are carried out in a medium in the absence of FBS and the irradiation is carried out in the phopshate buffer (PBS).
  • PBS phopshate buffer
  • the incubations and the treatments are carried out at a temperature of 37 ° C. and with a flow of 5% CO 2, with the exception of the irradiation which is carried out at ambient temperature.
  • the wells are carefully rinsed with PBS and 0.05 millimoles of MDC are applied to the cells at 37 ° C. and in the presence of 5% CO 2, the wells are then incubated for 30 minutes. then washed, and the fluorescence is measured at a wavelength of 380 nanometers (excitation) and 525 nanometers (emission) with spectrophotometer type Tecan Safire II. The results obtained are expressed in RFU (Real Fluorescence Units); a blank test is also performed with the same equipment.
  • This protocol is also implemented for control compounds, namely vitamin E and vitamin C, known for their protective effects vis-à-vis the blue light radiation.
  • results are expressed in RFU or fluorescence units and a Student T test is performed to evaluate the significance of each measurement.
  • Table 1 Effect of treatment of HCR extract on the autophage activity of cells irradiated with blue light with a wavelength of 453 nanometers.
  • the fibroblasts are treated with vitamin C or vitamin E, and irradiated with blue light at 453 nanometers, the autophagic activity of said treated fibroblasts decreases by about 14% for vitamin C treatment , and about 22% for the vitamin E treatment.
  • the fibroblasts are treated with the HCR extract at different concentrations, namely with a mass content of 0.001%, 0.005% and 0.01%, autophagic activity of said treated fibroblasts decreases by about 13%, 15% and 35% respectively.
  • the fibroblasts are incubated in petri dishes (at a density of 250,000 cells per dish, with diameters of 60 mm, a density of about 13,000 NHF / cm 2 ), in the same medium as previously described in US Pat.
  • Example 2 media supplemented with FBS) one day before treatment with the test products (incubation at 37 ° C, 5% CC> 2 ).
  • Each product tested at the desired dose is applied for 24 hours (medium incubation without FBS serum, at 37 ° C / 5% CO2).
  • the cells are then irradiated with blue light with a wavelength of 453 nanometers under the same conditions as described in Example 2.
  • the cells are then incubated with a fluorescent marker (Invitrogen LysoTracker).
  • the cells are then observed and photographed at a magnification of x40 (Olympus CK40 Microscope, equipped with Archimed Microvision processing software) with or without an appropriate fluorescent filter. These photographs make it possible to qualitatively assess the state of the lysosomal network and whole cells.
  • Needle shape when the shape of the fibroblast remains in its original form "absence of needle shape", when the initial form of the fibroblast is no longer observed (no A)
  • Treatment of fibroblasts with the three levels of HCR extract allows protection of the damaged lysosomal network by irradiation with blue light.
  • MDC Monodansylcadaverine
  • Triethanol amine qs pH 5.5 to 6
  • Carrageenan l 0.10%
  • PROCEDURE Emulsify B in A at 60 ° C then add C at 60 ° C, then D at 30 ° C and adjust the pH if necessary.
  • Example 11 moisturizing cream for oily skin
  • Example 14 Bronzing emulsion without sun
  • Titanium oxide 8%
  • Demineralized water qsp 100%
  • MICROPEARL TM M 100 is an ultra-fine powder with a very soft feel and mattifying action marketed by MATSUMO SEPICIDE TM Cl, imidazolidine urea, is a preservative marketed by the company SEPPIC.
  • SIMULSOL TM 165 is self-emulsifiable glycerol stearate marketed by the company SEPPIC.
  • SEPICIDE TM HB which is a mixture of phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben and butylparaben, is a preservative marketed by the company SEPPIC.
  • PARSOL TM MCX is octyl para-methoxy cinnamate; marketed by the company G I VAU DAN.
  • LANOL TM 37T is glycerol triheptanoate, marketed by the company SEPPIC.
  • SOLAGUM TM L is a carrageenan marketed by the company SEPPIC.
  • EUSOLEX TM 4360 is a solar filter marketed by MERCK.
  • DEEPALINE TM PVB is an acylated wheat protein hydrolyzate marketed by the company SEPPIC.
  • PRIMOL TM 352 is a mineral oil marketed by the company EXXON.
  • PECOSIL TM PS 100 is Dimethicone PEG-7 marketed by the company PHOENIX.
  • Montanov TM 68 (INCI name Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside) is an emulsifying agent marketed by the company SEPPIC
  • Montanov TM L (INCI name C14-22 Alcohols (and) C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside) is an emulsifying agent marketed by the company SEPPIC.
  • Montanov TM 202 (INCI name Arachidyl Alcohol & Behenyl Alcohol & Arachidyl)) is an emulsifying agent marketed by the company SEPPIC.
  • SIMULGEL TM EG (INCI name: sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer and isohexadecane and polysorbate 80): Reverse latex used as thickening agent EMOGREEN TM L15 (INCI name: C13-C15 alkanes) is an emollient
  • EUXYL TM PE9010 (INCI name: Phenoxyethanol & Ethylhexylglycerin): Composition used as a preservative.
  • SEPINOV TM EMT 10 (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer) is a thickening agent.
  • SEPIMAX TM Zen (INCI name: Polyacryalte Crosspolymer-6) is a thickening agent

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EP18821722.8A 2017-12-08 2018-11-23 Neues verfahren zur verminderung der effekte von blaulichtinduziertem stress auf die haut Pending EP3720567A1 (de)

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FR1761824A FR3074684B1 (fr) 2017-12-08 2017-12-08 Nouveau procede anti-stress de la peau induit par l'exposition a la lumiere bleue
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WO2002056859A2 (en) 2001-01-19 2002-07-25 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc. Composition containing hedychium extract and use thereof
WO2006053415A1 (en) 2004-11-18 2006-05-26 Biopharmacopae Design International Inc. Plant extract having matrix metalloprotease inhibiting activity and dermatological uses thereof
FR2895257A1 (fr) 2005-12-22 2007-06-29 Oreal Actif pour le traitement du contour des yeux.
FR2948285B1 (fr) * 2009-07-27 2011-09-23 Soc Dexploitation De Produits Pour Les Industries Chimiques Seppic Emulsion huile-dans-eau a proprietes sensorielles ameliorees
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KR20140101967A (ko) * 2013-02-13 2014-08-21 한국임업진흥원 산양삼 추출물을 포함하는 아이세럼 및 이의 제조방법
CN103494737B (zh) * 2013-09-27 2015-04-22 浙江树人大学 一种以姜花作为抗衰老护肤因子的化妆品制剂及制备方法
FR3048881B1 (fr) 2016-03-16 2020-03-27 Jafer Enterprises R&D, S.L. Hydrolysat peptidique et osidique des feves de cacao, compositions cosmetiques le comprenant et leurs utilisations cosmetiques
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