EP3720567A1

EP3720567A1 - Novel method for reducing the effects of blue-light-induced stress on the skin

Info

Publication number: EP3720567A1
Application number: EP18821722.8A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Virginie ANCHARTECHAHAR
Original assignee: Serdex; Societe dExploitation de Produits pour les Industries Chimiques SEPPIC SA
Current assignee: Societe dExploitation de Produits pour les Industries Chimiques SEPPIC SA
Priority date: 2017-12-08
Filing date: 2018-11-23
Publication date: 2020-10-14
Also published as: FR3074684B1; FR3074684A1; CN112105421A; JP2021515028A; WO2019110887A1

Abstract

The invention relates to a method for preventing or slowing down the appearance of signs of ageing on the human skin or lips, generated by oxidative stress caused by exposition to blue light, or removing said signs, said method comprising at least one step of applying, to the human skin or lips, a topical cosmetic formulation (F₁) comprising, in relation to 100 % of its mass: (1) between 90 and 99.5 mass % of at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient, and (2) between 0.5 and 10 mass % of a composition (C₁) comprising, in relation to 100 % of its mass: a) between 90 and 99 mass % of at least one composition (C₂) comprising, in relation to 100 % of its own mass: (i) between 40 and 80 mass % of at least one compound of formula (I): HO-[CH₂-CH(OH)-CH₂-O-]_nH (I), in which n is a whole number higher than or equal to 1 and lower than or equal to 6, and (ii) between 20 and 60 mass % of water, and b) between 1 and 10 mass %, more particularly between 1 and 5 mass %, and even more particularly between 1 and 3 mass %, of an extract (EX) of the plant of the species Hedychium coronarium.

Description

New anti-stress process of the skin induced by exposure to blue light

The present invention relates to a method for preventing or slowing the appearance of signs of aging of human skin or lips generated by the oxidative stress caused by exposure to blue light, or for eliminating said signs, comprising at least one application step on human skin or on the lips of a cosmetic formulation for topical use comprising a plant extract of the species Hedychium coronarium.

Human skin is the first image offered in the eyes of others, and therefore, the improvement of its appearance is a subject of constant concern for human beings. The skin is a reflection of a state of well-being, often associated with youth, and conversely to a state of fatigue and / or aging. Skin aging is therefore a concern for humans and more particularly for consumers of cosmetic products who are looking for solutions to mitigate and / or prevent the visible manifestations of said aging. This cutaneous aging is observed at the level of the different cutaneous tissues and is characterized by metabolic, functional, cellular, architectural and tissue alterations, leading to visible external effects characterized by the appearance and increase of wrinkles, by a dull complexion. , by a lack of uniformity of the complexion (phenomenon of dyschromism), or by a modification of the texture and the properties, in particular biomechanical, of the skin of the human body.

Skin aging results from factors that are specific to each individual (characteristics of each individual's genetic heritage) and from environmental factors. Among the environmental factors that can cause skin aging include repeated and prolonged exposure to the sun, especially exposure to ultraviolet radiation, exposure to air pollution, cigarette smoke, various oxidative stress that may result among other factors previously mentioned, as well as psychological, emotional and nervous stress. The repeated and prolonged exposure of human skin to sunlight, and more particularly to ultraviolet radiation, leads to a form of aging that is commonly called photo-aging. This photo-aging is well documented in the scientific literature and it causes alterations of the skin at different levels, one of the most well-known skin alterations is solar elastosis, which is characterized by profound changes in the architecture and the organization of the elastic fibers of the dermis. These modifications lead to a characteristic appearance of these skins which present very deep wrinkles and marked, inducing a tanned skin appearance, namely stiff, cracked and burnished, as well as changes in their mechanical properties.

Changes in the mechanical properties of human skin due to aging are due to the alteration of the dermal extracellular matrix, composed by elastic fibers and collagen fibers, and also to the alteration of cellular characteristics. Schulze et al. (1) showed that dermal fibroblasts stiffened with age, influencing cellular functions involving the cytoskeleton, such as contractile, migratory and proliferative properties, which are important for the reorganization of the extracellular matrix.

It is also known that reactive oxygen species (known as "ROS") in excess in human skin (whether the stimulus is exogenous or that production is endogenous) create irreversible binding with the identified proteins. under the term "carbonylated proteins", which then lose their function. There has recently been a link between these carbonyl proteins and their impact on key cellular functions such as carbohydrate metabolism, protein maintenance, cell mobility, including migration, and protein homeostasis (2). (Baraibar and Friguet, 2013). Studies investigating the effect of human sera from donors of different ages on the migratory properties of fibroblasts were conducted by Kondo et al. (3). The data obtained show that the serum of elderly donors inhibits the migratory properties of fibroblasts, and even those of fetal fibroblasts. This illustrates the importance of intrinsic factors in the problematic skin aging.

The so-called "photodynamic" technique has been described as particularly suitable for rejuvenation (ie the reduction of wrinkles and fine lines, pigmentation spots, etc.) of the so-called "photo-exposed" skin, namely the skin exposed to solar radiation. , and more particularly to ultraviolet radiation. The mechanism by which this technique acts has recently been studied (4), and it turns out that its mode of action includes an increase in the fibroblastic population and an increase in the migratory capacity of said fibroblasts.

These recent studies thus show that the alteration of the migratory properties of fibroblasts contributes to the phenomenon of cutaneous aging. These migratory properties are important and described as part of the skin lesion repair process. Malfunctions of this process in the elderly are widely described, thus illustrating the importance of this cellular functionality.

As a result, an improvement in the migratory properties of fibroblasts in the dermis of human skin and / or an increase in the fibroblastic population constitute a means of preventing and / or treating aging of the skin of the body. and, more particularly, to prevent and / or treat the visible effects of said aging, for example wrinkles, dullness, lack of uniformity of the complexion (dyschromia), rigidity of the skin of the human body, caused by aging. natural or by prolonged exposure to the sun, especially exposure to ultraviolet radiation, or exposure to oxidative stress.

Blue light represents part of the visible light and is characterized by a wavelength range of between 380 nanometers and 500 nanometers, and thus constitutes most of the light transmitted by the sun in the visible spectrum.

However, the evolution of our lifestyles exposes us more and more to the radiations of the artificial blue light coming from LEDs (Light Emitted Diodes) present in the lighting of domestic interiors and offices, more particularly the lamps with LEDs, tablet screens, smartphones, computers, and televisions. This exposure is increased because of the proliferation of devices emitting blue light but also because of the increased cumulative daily duration due to the evolution of our consumption patterns (in 201 1, on average 3.5 hours per day , an increase of 23% in 30 years) (5).

Studies of the effects of blue light on human skin have demonstrated that it has an anti-proliferative effect and promotes differentiation of keratinocytes (6). In addition, the exposure to blue light of skin fragments whose barrier function has been previously altered has shown a delay in the recovery of the cutaneous barrier, in particular as regards the lipids secreted at the interface between the stratum corneum. and stratum granulosum (7).

The international application published under the number WO 2017/157998 A1 discloses the production of reactive oxygen species ("ROS" or "EORs") intracellular and mitochondrial by normal human keratinocytes, and the protection conferred by an application of a composition to topical use comprising a hydrolyzate of cocoa beans.

The French patent application published under the publication number FR 2895257 A1 also discloses the existence of cellular damage caused to the skin and more particularly to the eyelids by the light rays of wavelengths of the visible spectrum and more particularly those close to the blue, and the use of a lipophilic antioxidant, such as vitamins, pro-vitamins, carotenoids, retinoids, unsaponifiables, polyunsaturated fatty acids and glycyrrhetinic acid, to maintain and / or enhance the protective native function and restorative lipophilic structures of the eye contour.

Hedychium is a genus of flowering plants belonging to the ginger Zingiberaceae family. There are about seventy to eighty known species, from Southeast Asia (Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia, Philippines, etc.), southern China, Himalayas and Madagascar. Some species have become widely acclimatized in other countries (South Africa, South America, Central America, West Indies and many islands in the Pacific, Indian and Atlantic oceans). The genus name Hedychium is derived from two ancient Greek words, hedys meaning "sweet" and chios meaning "snow". This refers to the fragrant white flower of the type species Hedychium coronarium. Common names include garland flower, ginger lily, and kahili ginger.

Members of the genus Hedychium are perennial rhizomatous plants, which usually grow to a height of 120 cm to 180 cm tall. Some species are cultivated for their exotic foliage and for their fragrant flower spikes in shades of white, yellow and orange. Many crops have also been developed for use in garden making. Among the species used are, for example, Hedychium aurantiacum, Hedychium coccineum, Hedychium coronarium, Hedychium densiflorum, Hedychium ellipticum (ginger peel), Hedychium flavescens, Hedychium gardnerianum (ginger), Hedychium samuiense and Hedychium spicatum called kapur kachari in Hindi.

The species differ from each other in their biological taxonomy and in many cases also in their origin.

The species Hedychium coronarium (also called "ginger butterfly") was first described in 1783 by Johann Gerhard Koenig in the book by Andrea Johan Retzius "Observationes Botanicae" t. 3 pages 73-74.

The species Hedychium spicatum (also known as "wild ginger") was first recorded by James Edward Smith (181 1), then described by Francis Buchanan-Hamilton in 1819 in the works of Abraham REES " the Cyclopaedia; Science and Literature. T 17, p.521-522.

Hedychium has been widely described for use in traditional medicine as for example in "Edible Medicinal and Non Medicinal Plants", Vol. 8 Flowers, pages 853-860 "or in" Medicinal Plants Used by Women of the Agnalazaha Coastal Forest (Southeast of Madagascar) ", Journal of Ethno Biology and Ethno medicine, 2013 as well as by X. Yan, and "Chinese Medicines, Molecular Structures, Natural Sources and Applications", 1999 or by Sharma et al., "Phytochemistry", 14: 578, 1975.

The international application published under the number WO 2002/056859 A2 discloses compositions comprising Hedychium extracts and the associated cosmetic uses. Said international application particularly describes the use of the species Hedychium spicatum and more particularly its activity in the regulation of the firmness, tone or texture of the skin. In another aspect, said application describes particularly the use of the species Hedychium spicatum and in the treatment of environmental damage of the skin, based on the inhibition of UV-induced metalloproteinase-1 secretion (MMP-1), preventing the loss of thiols induced by the smoke to protect glutathione in the endogenous cellular antioxidant defense system and inhibiting the production of nitric oxide as a precursor to the formation of harmful oxygen species (ROS) reagents.

The Brazilian patent application BR PI0905586-0 A2 describes the cosmetic use of extracts of Hedychium coronarium, derived from the flowers of the plant, to moisturize, revitalize and regenerate the skin. In addition, an anti-aging effect, due to the high concentration of flavonoids in the flowers, is mentioned as well as an anti-inflammatory and anti-peroxidative activity, as well as a strengthening of micro-vessels and capillaries, and the property to combat the formation of edema and photo-induced erythema.

The international application published under the number WO 2006/053415 A1 describes the well-adapted use of several plant extracts in cosmetic applications, including applications using the mechanism of inhibition of MMP-1, MMP-2, MMP-3. , MMP-9, HLE (human leukocyte elastase). However, Hedychium plant extracts are mentioned only very broadly and in a broad list of possible plants, and no specific effects have been described or shown for any Hedychium species.

In the context of their search for novel cosmetic active agents for the prevention and / or treatment of the signs of aging of human skin or lips generated by the oxidative stress caused by exposure to the blue light of said human skin, the The inventors have set about developing a new technical solution consisting in the use of an extract of the plant species Hedychium coronarium.

Therefore, according to a first aspect, the invention relates to a method for the purpose of preventing or slowing down the appearance of signs of aging of human skin or lips generated by the oxidative stress caused by the exposure to blue light, or else to eliminate said signs, comprising at least one step of application to human skin or to the lips, of a cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) comprising for 100% of its mass:

(1) - from 90% to 99.5% by weight, more particularly from 92% to 99.5%, and even more particularly from 95% to 99.5% by weight of at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient, and

(2) - From 0.5% to 10% by weight, more particularly from 0.5% to 8% by weight, and even more particularly from 0.5% to 5% by weight of a composition (Ci), said composition ( Ci) comprising for 100% of its mass: a) - from 90% to 99% by weight, more particularly from 95% to 99% by weight, and even more particularly from 97% to 99% by weight of at least one composition (C ₂ ) comprising for 100% of its own mass :

(i) - From 40% to 80% by weight, more particularly from 50% to 80% by weight, and even more particularly from 60% to 80% by weight of at least one compound of formula (I)

H0- [CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ -O-] _n H (I),

in which n represents an integer greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 6, and

(ü) - From 20% to 60% by weight, more particularly from 20% to 50% by weight and even more particularly from 20% to 40% by weight of water

b) - from 1% to 10% by weight, more particularly from 1% to 5% by weight, and even more particularly from 1% to 3% by weight of an extract (EX) of the plant of the species Hedychium coronarium.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "extract (EX)" denotes a composition derived from the extraction of the same part or from several parts of the plant of the species Hedychium coronarium. the present invention is a mixture of chemical substances isolated from the part or parts extracted from the plant of the species Hedychium coronarium.In one particular aspect, the subject of the invention is the process as defined above and in which the extract (EX) is an extract of the plant of the species Hedychium coronarium from flowers, seeds, fruits, leaves, stems, roots and / or rhizomes, and more particularly roots and / or rhizomes of said species plant Hedychium coronarium.

By "blue light" is meant within the meaning of the present invention natural or artificial radiation, characterized by wavelengths greater than or equal to 380 nanometers and less than or equal to 500 nanometers, more particularly greater than or equal to 450 nanometers and less than or equal to 500 nanometers, and even more particularly greater than or equal to 450 nanometers and less than or equal to 480 nanometers.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "blue light exposure" denotes that the average daily duration of exposure to blue light as defined above is greater than or equal to 4 hours / day and less than or equal to 12 hours / day, more particularly greater than or equal to 4 hours / day and less than or equal to 6 hours / day.

By "oxidative stress" (or "oxidative stress") is meant within the meaning of the present invention a human physiological state for which there is an imbalance between the antioxidants and pro-oxidant free radicals; the latter being reactive oxygen species ("ROS"), whose excess production in human skin, or the lips, especially from oxygen present in the mitochondria, was caused by the exposure thereof to external stress such as exposure to blue light as defined above.

By "signs of aging of the human skin or lips" is meant within the meaning of the present invention, any changes in the external appearance of the skin or the lips due to aging, such as wrinkles and fine lines, the deterioration of microrelief, lack of elasticity and / or tone of the skin, lack of density and / or firmness of human skin or lips, but also any internal changes in the skin that do not systematically result in an appearance modified exterior, such as any internal damage to the skin resulting from exposure to ultraviolet radiation.

According to a more particular aspect, the invention relates to the method as defined above, for which the oxidative stress is caused to the exposure of the natural blue light, characterized by a radiation of wavelengths greater than or equal to 380 nanometers and less than or equal to 500 nanometers, more particularly greater than or equal to 450 nanometers and less than or equal to 500 nanometers, and even more particularly greater than or equal to 450 nanometers and less than or equal to 480 nanometers.

According to a more particular aspect, the subject of the invention is the process as defined above, for which the oxidative stress is caused at the exposure of the artificial blue light, characterized by a radiation of wavelengths greater than or equal to 380 nanometers and less than or equal to 500 nanometers, more particularly greater than or equal to 450 nanometers and less than or equal to 500 nanometers, and even more particularly greater than or equal to 450 nanometers and less than or equal to 480 nanometers.

By "artificial blue light" is meant in the sense of the present invention the blue light as defined above generated by devices comprising at least one light emitting diode (or "LED" or "Light Emitting Diode" in English), such as communication equipment with screens lit by "LED", tactile or not, such as mobile phones or "smartphone" in English, tablets, computers, televisions; lighting lamps for residential and office interiors, neon signs and billboards.

The terms "for topical use" or "topically" used above mean that said cosmetic formulation (Fi), is implemented by application to the skin, whether it is a direct application in the case a cosmetic formulation or an indirect application for example in the case of a body care product in form wipes made of textile or paper or sanitary products intended to be in contact with the skin.

The expression "cosmetically acceptable" used to qualify "the excipient" in the definition of the cosmetic formulation (Fi) as described above, means according to the directive of the Council of the European Economic Community No. 76/768 / CEE of 27 July 1976 as amended by Directive 93/35 / EEC of 14 June 1993, that the said formulation (F1) includes any substance or preparation intended to be placed in contact with the various parts of the human body (epidermis, hair system and capillary, nails, lips and genitals) or with the teeth and oral mucosa in view, exclusively and mainly, to clean, perfume, modify the appearance and / or correct body odor and / or protect them or keep them in good condition.

According to a particular aspect, the subject of the invention is the process as defined above and in which n represents an integer greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 4, more particularly greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 3 .

According to a still more particular aspect, the subject of the invention is the process as defined above and in which n represents an integer equal to 1.

According to one particular aspect, the subject of the invention is the process as defined above and characterized in that said signs of aging of the human skin or of the lips are wrinkles, fine lines or an alteration of the microrelief of the human skin or of the skin. lips.

According to one particular aspect, the subject of the invention is the process as defined above and characterized in that the said signs of aging of the human skin or of the lips are the lack of elasticity and / or tone of the human skin or of the skin. lips.

According to one particular aspect, the subject of the invention is the process as defined above and characterized in that the said signs of aging of the human skin or of the lips are the lack of density and / or firmness of the human skin or the lips. .

The extract (EX) of the plant of the Hedychium coronarium species, included in the formulation (Fi) used in the process which is the subject of the present invention, can be prepared by the process comprising:

A step a) of mixing a determined amount of roots and / or rhizomes of the plant of the Hedychium coronarium species, with a solvent or a suitable solvent mixture (S), to obtain a mixture (Mi),

A step b) of filtering the mixture (Mi) to obtain a filtrate (M2),

A step c) of decantation of the filtrate (M ₂ ) to separate the sediments from the supernatant medium (M ₃ ),

A step d) of filtration of the supernatant (M ₃ ) to obtain a clear solution (Si) A step e) of adding to the solution (Si) obtained at the end of step d), a necessary quantity of solvent (S) to obtain the extract (EX) characterized by a dry matter content desired.

In step a) of the process for the preparation of the extract (EX) described above, the required amount of roots and / or rhizomes of the plant Hedychium coronarium species, is introduced into the tank in ground or cut form.

In step a) of the process for preparing the extract (EX) previously described, the solvent (S) is chosen from the group consisting of:

The compounds of formula (II):

CH ₃ - (CH ₂ ) _m -OH (II),

where m is an integer greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 8;

The compounds of formula (I):

H0- [CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ -O-] _n H (I),

The compounds of formula (III):

CH ₃ - (CH ₂ ) p- (C = O) -O (CH ₂ ) p'-CH ₃ (III), for which p and p ', which may be identical or different, represent an integer greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 8;

Chloroform, water, aqueous solutions of strong acids such as aqueous solutions of hydrochloric acid, aqueous solutions of strong bases such as soda solutions.

In step a) of the process for preparing the extract (EX) described above, the solvent (S) is more particularly chosen from the group consisting of ethanol, 1-propanol, isopropanol and glycerol. propylene glycol, water, and more particularly among ethanol, mixtures of water and ethanol, mixtures of water and glycerol.

In the process for preparing the extract (EX) described above, step a) is preferably carried out in the presence of a water / ethanol mixture (50/50 v / v), and in proportions of 1 kg of roots. and / or rhizomes of the plant species Hedychium coronarium, for 10 dm ³ of the previously described solvent mixture.

In step b) of the process for preparing the extract (EX) previously described, the conventional filtration techniques known to those skilled in the art can be applied to obtain the filtrate (M ₂ ) from the mixture (Mi) previously obtained.

In step c) of the process for preparing the extract (EX) previously described, the separation of the solids obtained after sedimentation and the supernatant (M ₃ ) can be carried out by conventional techniques known to those skilled in the art. In step d) of the process for preparing the extract (EX) previously described, the filtration of the supernatant (M3) is carried out in order to obtain a solution (Si) which is brighter than the supernatant (M3) and is carried out according to conventional techniques. known to those skilled in the art.

In step e) of the process for preparing the extract (EX) previously described, adjusting the solution (Si) to a solvent (S) or to a solvent mixture (S) to obtain the extract (EX) is carried out by the use of solvents (S) described above and more particularly with a mixture of water and glycerol in which, for 100% of its mass, the water represents a proportion by volume of between 10% and 90% preferably between 20% and 80%, and still more preferably 30%, and the glycerol represents a proportion by volume of between 90% and 10%, preferably between 80% and 20%, and even more preferably 70%.

The cosmetic formulations for topical use (F) used in the process which is the subject of the present invention as defined above, are generally in the form of aqueous or hydro-alcoholic or hydro-glycolic solutions, in the form of a suspension. , an emulsion, a microemulsion or a nanoemulsion, whether of water-in-oil, oil-in-water, water-in-oil-in-water or oil-in-water type. water-in-oil, or in the form of a powder. They may be packaged in a vial, in a device of the "vial" pump type, in pressurized form in an aerosol device, in a device provided with a perforated wall such as a grid or in a device provided with a ball applicator ( says "roll-on").

In general, the cosmetically acceptable excipients present in the cosmetic formulation for topical use (F) used in the process that is the subject of the present invention as defined above, are chosen from the substances and / or chemical compositions usually in the field of formulations for topical use, such as foaming and / or detergent surfactants, thickening and / or gelling surfactants, thickening and / or gelling agents, stabilizing agents, film-forming compounds, solvents and co-solvents, hydrotropic agents, thermal or mineral waters, plasticizers, emulsifiers and co-emulsifiers, opacifying agents, pearlescent agents, superfatting agents, sequestering agents, chelating agents, oils, waxes, perfumes, essential oils, preservatives, conditioners, sunscreens, mined fillers particles or pigments, particles providing a visual effect or intended for the encapsulation of active substances, exfoliating particles, texture agents, optical brighteners, repellents for insects.

Examples of foaming and / or detergent surfactants that can be combined with the composition (Ci) in the cosmetic formulation for topical use (F) used in the process which is the subject of the present invention as defined above, mention may be made of anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic foaming and / or detergent surfactants.

Among the foaming and / or detergent anionic surfactants that can be combined with the composition (Ci) in the topical cosmetic formulation (Fi) used in the process which is the subject of the present invention as defined above, one mention may be made of alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, amine, or aminoalcohol, alkyl ether sulphate, alkyl sulphate, alkylamidoether sulphate, alkylaryl polyether sulphate, monoglyceride sulphate or alpha salts. olefinsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylphosphates, alkyletherphosphates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alkylcarboxylates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, alkylsarcosinates, acylisethionates, N-acyltaurates, acyllactylates, N-acyl derivatives of amino acids, N-acyl derivatives of peptides, Na derivatives Cells of proteins or N-acyl derivatives of fatty acids.

Among the foaming and / or detergent amphoteric surfactants which can be combined with the composition (Ci) in the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) used in the process which is the subject of the present invention as defined above, one mention may be made of alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, sultaines, alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines, imidazoline derivatives, phosphobetaines, amphopolyacetates and amphopropionates.

Among the foaming and / or detergent cationic surfactants which can be combined with the composition (Ci) in the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) used in the process which is the subject of the present invention as defined above, one mention may be made especially of quaternary ammonium derivatives.

Among the foaming and / or detergent nonionic surfactants that can be combined with the composition (Ci) in the topical cosmetic formulation (Fi) used in the process which is the subject of the present invention as defined above, there may be mentioned more particularly the compositions (C ₃ ) represented by the formula (IV):

R ₃ -O- (G ₃ ) rH (IV),

in which R ₃ represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical which may comprise at least one hydroxyl function, and comprising from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, G ₃ represents the remainder of a reducing sugar and r represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 5, said composition (C ₃ ) consisting of a mixture of the compounds of formulas (IV1), (IV2), (IV ₃ ), (IV ₄ ) and (IV ₅ ) :

R ₃ -O- (G ₃ ) 1H (IV 1),

R ₃ -O- (G ₃ ) ₂ -H (IV ₂ ), R ₃ -O- (G ₃ ) ₃ -H (IVS),

R ₃ -O- (G ₃ ) ₄ -H (IV ₄ ),

R ₃ -O- (G ₃ ) ₅ -H (IVs),

in molar proportions of said compounds of formulas (IV ₁ ), (IV ₂ ), (IV ₃ ), (IV ₄ ) and (IV ₅ ) respectively equal to ai, a ₂ , a ₃ , a ₄ and as such that the sum ai + a ₂ + a ₃ + a ₄ + as is equal to 1, and the sum ai + 2a ₂ + 3a ₃ + 4a ₄ + 5as is equal to r.

Among the compositions (C ₃ ) represented by the formula (IV), there may be mentioned more particularly those for which R ₃ represents an alkyl radical chosen from the group consisting of the n-octyl radical, the n-decyl radical, the n-dodecyl radical, the n-tetradecyl radical, and for which G ₃ represents the residue of a reducing sugar chosen from the rest of glucose, xylose and arabinose.

Among the thickening and / or gelling surfactants that can be associated with the composition (Ci) in the cosmetic formulation for topical use (F) used in the process which is the subject of the present invention as defined above, it is possible to mention the optionally poly (alkoxylated) alkyl polyglycoside fatty esters, such as the ethoxylated methylpolyglucoside esters such as PEG 120 methyl glucose trioleate and PEG 120 methyl glucose dioleate respectively marketed under the names GLUCAMATE ™ LT and GLUMATE ™ DOE120; alkoxylated fatty esters such as PEG 150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate marketed under the name CROTHIX ™ DS53, PEG 55 propylene glycol oleate sold under the name ANTIL ™ 141; fatty chain polyalkylene glycol carbamates such as PPG-14 laureth isophoryl dicarbamate marketed under the name ELFACOS ™ T21 1, PPG-14 palmeth-60 hexyl dicarbamate sold under the name ELFACOS ™ GT2125.

As examples of stabilizing agents that can be associated with the composition (Ci) in the cosmetic formulation for topical use (F) used in the process which is the subject of the present invention as defined above, mention may be made of the microcrystalline waxes, and more particularly ozokerite, mineral salts such as sodium chloride or magnesium chloride, silicone polymers such as polysiloxane polyalkyl polyether copolymers.

As examples of hydrotropic agents that can be associated with the composition (Ci) in the cosmetic formulation for topical use (F) used in the process that is the subject of the present invention as defined above, mention may be made of the xylene sulphonates, cumene sulphonates, hexyl polyglucoside, (2-ethyl hexyl) polyglucoside, n-heptyl polyglucoside.

As examples of opacifying agents and / or pearlescent agents that can be associated with the composition (Ci) in the cosmetic formulation for topical use (F) used in the method that is the subject of the present invention as defined above, we can mention palmitate of sodium, sodium stearate, sodium hydroxystearate, magnesium palmitate, magnesium stearate, magnesium hydroxystearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, ethylene glycol distearate, polyethylene glycol monostearate, polyethylene glycol distearate, fatty alcohols having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

As examples of texture agents that can be associated with the composition (Ci) in the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) used in the process that is the subject of the present invention as defined above, mention may be made of N-acylated derivatives of amino acids, such as lauroyl lysine marketed under the name AMINOHOPE ™ LL, octenyl starch succinate sold under the name DRYFLO ™, myristyl polyglucoside marketed under the name MONTANOV ™ 14, fibers cellulose, cotton fibers, chitosan fibers, talc, sericite, mica.

According to a particular aspect, the subject of the invention is the process as defined above, characterized in that the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) is in the form of a gel and comprises for 100% of its mass:

From 0.5% to 10% by weight, more particularly from 0.5% to 8% by weight and even more particularly from 0.5% to 5% by weight of a composition (Ci) as defined above,

From 0.5% to 10% by weight, more particularly from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and even more particularly from 0.5% to 3% by weight of at least one thickening agent selected from the group consisting of by the branched and / or cross-linked polymers (P), polysaccharides consisting solely of monosaccharides, polysaccharides consisting of monosaccharides, cellulose, cellulose derivatives,

From 80% to 99% by weight, more particularly from 87% to 99% by weight, and even more particularly from 92% to 99% by weight of water.

By "branched and / or crosslinked polymers (P)" is meant in the sense of the present invention a homopolymer or a polymer formed from several different types of monomers bearing at least one ethylenic function, such as a copolymer, a terpolymer or a tetrapolymer.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "connected polymer" denotes, for the polymer (P), a nonlinear polymer which has pendant chains so as to obtain, when this polymer is dissolved in water, a strong entanglement state leading to very low gradient viscosities for the solution thus thickened.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "crosslinked polymer" denotes, for the polymer (P), a non-linear polymer which, when added to water, is in the state of a three-dimensional network insoluble in water. water, but inflatable with water and leading then to obtaining a chemical gel. In a particular aspect, the polymer (P) is a crosslinked polymer. According to a more particular aspect, the polymer (P) is derived from the polymerization of monomers as defined above and described below, and in the presence of at least one diethylenic or polyethylene crosslinking monomer (AR).

According to an even more particular aspect, the crosslinking monomer (AR) is chosen from the group consisting of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, diethylene glycol diacrylate, ethylene glycol diacrylate, diallyl urea, triallylamine and trimethylol propanetriacrylate. methylenebis (acrylamide) or a mixture of these compounds, diallyoxyacetic acid or a salt thereof such as sodium diallyloxyacetate, or a mixture of these compounds.

According to a still more particular aspect, the crosslinking monomer (AR) is chosen from the group consisting of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, triallylamine, trimethylol propanetriacrylate and methylenebis (acrylamide).

According to a still more particular aspect, when the polymer (P) is crosslinked, the crosslinking monomer (AR) is used in molar proportions less than or equal to 0.5%, more particularly less than or equal to 0.25% more preferably less than or equal to 0.1%, more particularly less than or equal to 0.05%, and most preferably greater than or equal to 0.005% and less than or equal to 0.05%.

In a particular aspect, the polymer (P) is a homopolymer of a monomer having at least one ethylenic function and a weak acid function, partially or totally salified.

Within the meaning of the present invention, in the polymer (P) as defined above, the term "salified" in the expression "(...) a monomer having at least one weak acid function, partially or totally salified (.. .) "Indicates that the weak acidic function present in the monomer is in anionic form associated in salt form with a cation such as alkali metal salts, such as sodium or potassium cations, or as basic cations. nitrogen compounds such as ammonium salt, lysine salt or monoethanolamine salt (HO-Chh-CI-h-NhV).

The weak acid function of the monomer containing it is in particular the carboxylic acid function, partially or totally salified. Said monomer can be, for example, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, fumaric acid, partially or totally salified. It is preferably the acrylic acid partially or totally salified in the form of an alkali metal salt such as for example the sodium salt or the potassium salt, ammonium salt or a salt of an amino alcohol as for example the salt of monethanolamine.

According to a particular aspect of the present invention, the polymer (P), present in the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) used in the process object of the The present invention as defined above, is a homopolymer of acrylic acid and more particularly the sodium or ammonium salt of acrylic acid, resulting from a polymerization reaction in the presence of a crosslinking agent (AR ) selected from triallylamine, trimethylol propanetriacrylate, methylene-bis (acrylamide).

According to another particular aspect, the polymer (P) is a homopolymer of a monomer having at least one ethylenic function and a strong acid function, partially or totally salified.

For the purposes of the present invention, in the polymer (P) as defined above, the term "salified" in the expression "(...) a monomer having at least one strong, partially or totally salified acid function (.. .) "Indicates that the strong acid function present in the monomer is in an anionic form associated in salt form with a cation such as alkali metal salts, such as sodium or potassium cations, or as basic cations. nitrogen compounds such as ammonium salt, lysine salt or monoethanolamine salt (HO-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -NH ₄ ⁺ ). The strong acid function of the monomer containing it is in particular the sulphonic acid function or the phosphonic acid function, partially or totally salified. Said monomer may be, for example, partially or totally salified styrenesulphonic acid. It is preferably 2-methyl-2 - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid partially or totally salified in the form of an alkali metal salt such as, for example, the sodium salt or the salt potassium, ammonium salt or a salt of an amino alcohol such as for example the salt of monethanolamine.

According to a particular aspect of the present invention, the monomer having a strong acid function is 2-methyl-2 - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid, and more particularly the sodium or potassium salt. ammonium of 2-methyl 2 - [(1-oxo-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid.

According to a particular aspect of the present invention, the polymer (P), present in the topical cosmetic formulation (Fi) used in the process which is the subject of the present invention as defined above, is a homopolymer of the 2-methyl-2 - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid, and more particularly the sodium or ammonium salt of 2-methyl-2 - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid, resulting from a polymerization reaction in the presence of a crosslinking agent (AR) selected from triallylamine, trimethylol propanetriacrylate, methylene-bis (acrylamide).

According to another particular aspect of the present invention, the polymer (P), present in the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) used in the method which is the subject of the present invention as defined above, is:

a copolymer of 2-methyl-2 - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid, partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt or ammonium salt, and a neutral monomer selected from the group consisting of acrylamide, (2-hydroxyethyl) acrylate, (2-hydroxyethyl) methacrylate, vinylpyrrolidone, N, N-dimethylacrylamide, N-isopropylacrylamide, tris (hydroxy-methyl) acrylamido methane (THAM), hydroxyethylacrylamide,

a copolymer of acrylic acid, partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt or of ammonium salt, and of a neutral monomer chosen from the group consisting of acrylamide, acrylate and (2) hydroxyethyl), (2-hydroxyethyl) methacrylate, vinylpyrrolidone, N, N-dimethylacrylamide, N-isopropylacrylamide, tris (hydroxymethyl) acrylamido methane (THAM), hydroxyethylacrylamide,

a copolymer of acrylic acid, partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt or of ammonium salt, and 2-methyl-2 - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt or ammonium salt,

a terpolymer of 2-methyl 2 - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid, partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt or ammonium salt, and acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt or ammonium salt, and a neutral monomer selected from the group consisting of acrylamide, (2-hydroxyethyl) acrylate, (2-hydroxyethyl) methacrylate, vinylpyrrolidone, N, N-dimethylacrylamide, N-isopropylacrylamide, tris (hydroxy-methyl) acrylamido methane (THAM), hydroxyethylacrylamide,

a terpolymer of 2-methyl-2 - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid, partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt or ammonium salt, and a neutral monomer selected from the group consisting of acrylamide, (2-hydroxyethyl) acrylate, (2-hydroxyethyl) methacrylate, vinylpyrrolidone, N, N-dimethylacrylamide, N-isopropylacrylamide, tris (hydroxy-methyl) acrylamido methane (THAM), hydroxyethylacrylamide, and a monomer of formula (V):

CH ₂ = C (R 6) -C (= O) - [CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O] _n -R 7 (V) in which R 6 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical, R 7 represents a linear alkyl radical or branched having from eight to thirty carbon atoms and n represents a number greater than or equal to one and less than or equal to fifty.

According to another particular aspect of the present invention, the polymer (P), present in the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) used in the method which is the subject of the present invention as defined above, is: a copolymer of 2-methyl-2 - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulphonic acid, partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt or of ammonium salt, and of acrylate ( 2-hydroxyethyl), resulting from a polymerization reaction in the presence of a crosslinking agent (AR) chosen from triallylamine, trimethylol propanetriacrylate, methylenebis (acrylamide),

a copolymer of 2-methyl-2 - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid, partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt or ammonium salt, and (2-methacrylate) -hydroxyethyl), resulting from a polymerization reaction in the presence of a crosslinking agent (AR) chosen from triallylamine, trimethylol propanetriacrylate, methylenebis (acrylamide),

a copolymer of 2-methyl-2 - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulphonic acid, partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt or of ammonium salt, and of acrylamide, a polymerization reaction in the presence of a crosslinking agent (AR) chosen from triallylamine, trimethylol propanetriacrylate, methylenebis (acrylamide),

a copolymer of 2-methyl-2 - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid, partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt or ammonium salt, and vinylpyrrolidone, derived from a polymerization reaction in the presence of a crosslinking agent (AR) chosen from triallylamine, trimethylol propanetriacrylate and methylenebis (acrylamide),

a copolymer of acrylic acid, partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt or of ammonium salt, and of acrylamide, resulting from a polymerization reaction in the presence of a crosslinking agent (AR) chosen from triallylamine, trimethylol propanetriacrylate, methylenebis (acrylamide),

a copolymer of acrylic acid, partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt or of ammonium salt, and 2-methyl-2 - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid , partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt or ammonium salt, resulting from a polymerization reaction in the presence of a crosslinking agent (AR) chosen from triallylamine, trimethylol propanetriacrylate, methylenebis (acrylamide )

a copolymer of acrylic acid, partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt or of ammonium salt, and of a monomer of formula (V) defined above, resulting from a polymerization reaction in the presence of a crosslinking agent (AR) chosen from triallylamine, trimethylol propanetriacrylate, methylenebis (acrylamide),

a tetrapolymer of 2-methyl-2 - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulphonic acid, partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt or of ammonium salt, and the acrylate of (2-hydroxyethyl), lauroyl methacrylate, stearoyl methacrylate, resulting from a polymerization reaction in the presence of a crosslinking agent (AR) which is trimethylol propanetriacrylate,

a terpolymer of 2-methyl-2 - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -propanesulphonic acid, partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt or ammonium salt, N, N-dimethylacrylamide and tetraethoxylated lauroyl methacrylate, resulting from a polymerization reaction in the presence of a crosslinking agent (AR) which is trimethylol propanetriacrylate,

a terpolymer of 2-methyl-2 - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -propanesulphonic acid, partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt or ammonium salt, N, N-dimethylacrylamide and partially or totally salified acrylic acid in the form of sodium salt or ammonium salt, resulting from a polymerization reaction in the presence of a crosslinking agent (AR) chosen from triallylamine, trimethylol propanetriacrylate, methylene bis (acrylamide).

According to another particular aspect of the present invention, the polymer (P), present in the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) used in the method which is the subject of the present invention as defined above, may be chosen from the products marketed under the brand names SIMULGEL ™ EG, SIMULGEL ™ EPG,

SIMULGEL ™ 600, SIMULGEL ™ NS, SIMULGEL ™ INS 100, SIMULGEL ™ FL,

SIMULGEL ™ A, SIMULGEL ™ SMS 88, SEPIGEL ™ 305, SEPIGEL ™ 501, SEPINOV ™ EMT 10, SEPINOV ™ WEO, SEPIPLUS ™ 400, SEPIPLUS ™ 265, SEPIPLUS ™ S, SEPIMAX ™ Zen, SEPIMAX ™ C, ARISTOFLEX ™ AVC,

ARISTOFLEX ™ AVS, NOVEMER ™ EC-1, NOVEMER ™ EC 2, ARISTOFLEX ™ HMB, COSMEDIA ™ SP, FLOCARE ™ AND 25, FLOCARE ™ AND 75, FLOCARE ™ AND 26, FLOCARE ™ AND 30, FLOCARE ™ AND 58, FLOCARE ™ PSD 30, VISCOLAM ™ AT 64, VISCOLAM ™ AT 100.

Among the thickening agents that may be associated with the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) in the form of a gel, and used in the process that is the subject of the present invention as defined above, mention may be made of the polysaccharides consisting solely of monosaccharides, such as glucans or homopolymers of glucose, glucomannoglucans, xyloglycans, galactomannans which are polymers whose main chain consists of D-mannose units, linked together in b-1, 4 and on which D-galactose units are grafted laterally by α-1, 6 linkages. Galactomannans are differentiated by their degree of substitution (DS), corresponding to the number of D-galactose units on the main D-mannose chain; this degree of substitution (DS) is between 0 and 1, and more particularly between 1 and 0.25, such as galactomannans originating from cassia gum (DS = 1/5), from locust bean gum (DS = 1/4), tara gum (DS = 1/3), guar gum (DS = 1/2), fenugreek gum (DS = 1).

According to a more particular aspect of the present invention, the thickening agent present in the topical cosmetic formulation (Fi) used in the process which is the subject of the present invention as defined above, is chosen from the elements of the group. consisting of guar gum, tara gum, glucans.

Among the thickening agents that may be associated with the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) in the form of a gel, and used in the process that is the subject of the present invention as defined above, mention may be made of the polysaccharides consisting of saccharide derivatives, and more particularly:

Sulphated galactans, which are galactose polymers which may have pendant ester-sulfate groups, represented in particular by algal polysaccharides such as carrageenans and agar;

- Uronans, which are the uronic acid polymers such as algin and pectin;

- The heteropolymers of oses and uronic acids: often of complex composition, these polymers are found in sap exudates (such as exudate of gum arabic and exudate of karaya gum) but they are also produced by microorganisms, such as, for example, xanthan gum and gellan gum;

Glucosaminoglycans which are polysaccharides formed from glucose derived by replacing its hydroxyl on C-2 with an amine (called 2-amino-2-deoxy-D-glucose or, more simply, glucosamine). The amine function may be acetylated. Among the hydrocolloids in this class are chitosan, formed solely of glucosamine units, and hyaluronan, the repeat unit of which is a dimer of glucosamine and glucuronic acid.

The thickening agents which are polysaccharides derived from monosaccharides, and which can be more particularly associated with the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) in the form of a gel, and used in the process which is the subject of the present invention as defined above, are gum acacia and gum acacia.

For the purposes of the present invention, "xanthan gum" denotes a polysaccharide synthesized by bacteria of the genus Xanthomonas and, in particular, the species X. campestris. The main chain of the xanthan gum is identical to that of the cellulose, that is to say that it is formed of bD-glucose units connected by the carbons 1 and 4. There is a triholoside connected every two units glucose in the main chain, in a regular alternative way; each branch consisting of a triholoside composed of two mannoses and a glucuronic acid, of the type: 3-D-Manp- (1 4) -3-D-GlcAp- (1 2) -αD-Manp- (1 3) [I. Capron et al., "About the native and renaturated conformation of xanthan exopolysaccharide", 1997. Xanthan gum (GX) is available as a salt of sodium, potassium or calcium.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "acacia gum" denotes a branched complex polysaccharide whose main chain consists of units of B-galactose linked together by carbons 1 and 3. The chains connected to the main chain consist of units of b-galactose interconnected by carbons 1 and 6, also bearing units of α-arabinose, and in smaller proportions of β-glucoronosyl units. Both the main chain and the pendant chains contain α-L-arabinosyl, α-L-rhamnopyranosyl, β-D-glucuronopyranosyl and 4-O-methyl-D-glucuronopyranosyl units.

Thickening agents which are cellulose derivatives, and which can be more particularly associated with the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) in the form of a gel, and used in the process which is the subject of this invention. as defined above, are methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose.

According to a still more particular aspect, the water that can be associated with the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) is in the form of a gel, and used in the process that is the subject of the present invention, such as defined above, is a thermal or mineral water with a mineralization of at least 300 mg / l, in particular Avene water, Vittel water, Vichy basin water, water of Uriage, the water of La Roche Posay, the water of the Bourboule, the water of Enghien-les-Bains, the water of Saint-Gervais-les Bains, the water of Néris-les-Bains, the water of Allevard-les-Bains, the water of Digne, the water of the Maizieres, the water of Neyrac-les-bains, the water of Lons le Saunier, the water of Rochefort, the water of Saint Christau, the water of Fumades and the water of Tercis-les-bains.

According to an even more particular aspect, it is possible to associate with the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) in the form of a gel, and used in the process which is the subject of the present invention as defined above, at less a new organic solvent such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-propanediol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, xylitol, erythritol, sorbitol.

According to another particular aspect, the subject of the invention is the process as defined above, characterized in that the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) is in the form of an oil-in-water type emulsion, and comprises for 100% of its mass:

From 5% to 42% by weight, more particularly from 5% to 40% by weight, and even more particularly from 5% to 40% by weight of at least one oil and / or wax From 0.5% to 10% by weight, more particularly from 0.5% to 8% by weight and even more particularly from 0.5% to 5% by weight of a composition (Ci) as defined above,

From 0.5% to 8% by weight, more particularly from 0.5% to 5% by weight and even more particularly from 0.5% to 3% by weight of at least one emulsifying surfactant of the oil-in-water type;

- From 40% to 94% by weight, more particularly from 47% to 94% by weight, and even more particularly from 52% to 94% by weight of at least one aqueous phase (PA).

As examples of oils that can be associated with the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) is in the form of an oil-in-water type emulsion and used in the process that is the subject of the present invention, we can cite :

linear alkanes such as, for example, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, tetradecane, pentadecane, hexadecane, heptadecane, octadecane, nonadecane, branched alkanes having from 12 to 40 carbon atoms, as for example 2-methyl undecane (or isododecane), 2-methyl tetradecane (or isopentadecane), 2-methyl pentadecane (or isohexadecane), 2-methyl hexadecane (or isoheptadecane), 2-methyl heptadecane (or isooctadecane), 2-methyl octadecane (or isononadecane), 2-methyl nonadecane (or isoeicosane),

white mineral oils, mixtures of alkanes containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, and which are obtained by distillation of the oil and by the implementation of subsequent processing steps such as, for example, the steps of desulfurization, deasphalting, extraction of aromatic compounds, extraction of waxes, and other finishing treatment steps, among which mention may be made of the mineral oils marketed under the tradenames Marcol ™ 52, Marcol ™ 82, Drakeol ™ 6VR, Eolane ™ 130, Eolane ™ 150,

hemisqualane (or 2,6,10-trimethyl-Dodecane, CAS number: 3891 -98-3), squalane (or 2,6,10,15,19,23-hexamethyltetracosane), hydrogenated polyisobutene or polydecene hydrogen,

fatty alcohol di-ethers such as, for example, the group consisting of dioctyl ether, didecyl ether, didodecyl ether, dodecyl octyl ether, dihexadecyl ether, (1,3-dimethyl butyl) tetradecyl ether, (1,3-dimethylbutyl) hexadecyl ether, bis (1,3-dimethylbutyl) ether, dihexyl ether,

mono-esters of fatty acids and alcohols, for example the elements of the group consisting of methyl laurate, ethyl laurate, propyl laurate, isopropyl laurate, butyl laurate and laurate; 2-butyl, hexyl laurate, methyl cocoate, ethyl cocoate, propyl cocoate, isopropyl cocoate, butyl cocoate, 2-butyl cocoate, hexyl cocoate, methyl myristate, ethyl myristate, propyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, butyl myristate, 2-butyl myristate , hexyl myristate, octyl myristate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, propyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl palmitate, 2-butyl palmitate, palmitate, hexyl, octyl palmitate, methyl oleate, ethyl oleate, propyl oleate, isopropyl oleate, butyl oleate, 2-butyl oleate, hexyl oleate, octyl oleate, methyl stearate, ethyl stearate, propyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, butyl stearate, 2-butyl stearate, stearate hexyl, octyl stearate, methyl isostearate, ethyl isostearate, propyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, butyl isostearate, 2-butyl isostearate, i hexyl sostearate, isostearyl isostearate,

vegetable oils, such as phytosqualane, sweet almond oil, coconut oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, corn germ oil, soybean oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil , pumpkin oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, rye oil, safflower oil, bancoulier oil, passionflower oil , hazelnut oil, palm oil, shea butter, apricot kernel oil, calophyllum oil, sysymbrium oil, avocado oil, calendula, oils derived from flowers or vegetables vegetable oils ethoxylated;

esters derived from lanolic acid, such as isopropyl lanolate, isocetyl lanolate,

monoglycerides, diglycerides and triglycerides of fatty acids such as glycerol triheptanoate,

alkylbenzoates,

silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, amine-modified silicones, fatty acid-modified silicones, alcohols-modified silicones, alcohol-modified silicones and fatty acids, modified silicones, polyether groups, modified epoxy silicones, silicones modified with fluorinated groups, cyclic silicones and silicones modified with alkyl groups.

For the purpose of the present invention, the term "oil" denotes compounds and / or mixtures of compounds which are insoluble in water and are in a liquid aspect at a temperature of 25 ° C.

As examples of waxes which may be associated with the topical cosmetic formulation (Fi), it is in the form of an oil-in-water type emulsion and used in the process which is the subject of the present invention. can include beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricoury wax, wax from Japan, fiber wax cork, sugar cane wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax; ozokerite; polyethylene wax; silicone waxes; vegetable waxes; fatty alcohols and solid fatty acids at room temperature; glycerides solid at room temperature.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" denotes compounds and / or mixtures of compounds which are insoluble in water and which have a solid appearance at a temperature greater than or equal to 45 ° C.

"Oil-in-water type emulsifying surfactant" present in the topical cosmetic formulation (Fi) in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and used in the process of the present invention, denotes the chemical substance or mixture of chemical substance which makes it possible to stabilize the droplets of the oil and / or wax dispersed in the continuous aqueous phase comprising water and the composition (Ci) such than previously defined.

As an oil-in-water emulsifying surfactant present in the topical cosmetic formulation (Fi) in the form of an oil-in-water type emulsion as defined above, there may be mentioned for example:

the polysorbates resulting from the ethoxylation reaction between a molar equivalent of sorbitan esters and between 5 and 20 molar equivalents of ethylene oxide, and more particularly between a molar equivalent of sorbitan laurate, or of sorbitan palmitate; , or sorbitan stearate, or sorbitan isostearate, or sorbitan oleate, and between 5 and 20 molar equivalents of ethylene oxide;

the products resulting from the ethoxylation reaction between a molar equivalent of a fatty acid, such as, for example, palmitic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, and between 5 to 200 molar equivalents of ethylene oxide;

the products resulting from the esterification reaction between a fatty acid, such as, for example, palmitic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid and between 4 to 20 molar equivalents, more particularly between 3 to 10 molar equivalents of glycerol;

a composition (C ₄ ), or a composition mixture (C ₄ ), represented by the formula (V)

R ₄ -O- (G ₄ ) r'-H (V),

in which R ₄ represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical which may comprise at least one hydroxy function, and comprising from 14 to 36 carbon atoms, G ₄ represents the remainder of a reducing sugar and r 'represents a number decimal greater than or equal to 1, 05 and less than or equal to 5, said composition (C ₄ ) consisting of a mixture of the compounds of formulas (Vi), (V ₂ ), (V ₃ ), (V ₄ ) and (V ₅ ): R ₄ -O- (G ₄ ) 1H (VI),

R ₄ -O- (G ₄ ) ₂ -H (V ₂ ),

R ₄ -O- (G ₄ ) ₃ -H (V ₃ ),

R ₄ -O- (G ₄ ) ₄ -H (V ₄ ),

R ₄ -O- (G ₄ ) ₅ -H (V ₅ ),

in molar proportions of said compounds of formulas (Vi), (V ₂ ), (V ₃ ), (V ₄ ) and (V ₅ ) respectively equal to ai, a ' ₂ , a' ₃ , a ' ₄ and a's such that the sum a'i + a ' ₂ + a' ₃ + a ' ₄ + a's equals 1, and the sum a'i + 2a' ₂ + 3a ' ₃ + 4a' ₄ + 5a's equals r .

According to one particular aspect, the subject of the invention is the process as defined above, characterized in that the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprises at least one an oil-in-water type emulsifying surfactant which is a member of the group consisting of a mixture of ethoxylated stearic acid with 120 moles of ethylene oxide and glycerol monostearate, and a composition (C ₄ ), or a composition mixture (C ₄ ), represented by formula (V):

R ₄ -O- (G ₄ ) _r -H (V),

in which R ₄ represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical which may comprise at least one hydroxyl function, and comprising from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, G ₄ represents the remainder of a reducing sugar and r 'represents a number decimal greater than or equal to 1, 05 and less than or equal to 5, said composition (C ₄ ) consisting of a mixture of the compounds of formulas (Vi), (V ₂ ), (V ₃ ), (V ₄ ) and (V ₅ ):

R ₄ -O- (G ₄ ) 1H (VI),

R ₄ -O- (G ₄ ) ₂ -H (V ₂ ),

R ₄ -O- (G ₄ ) ₃ -H (V ₃ ),

R ₄ -O- (G ₄ ) ₄ -H (V ₄ ),

R ₄ -O- (G ₄ ) ₅ -H (V ₅ ),

in molar proportions of said compounds of formulas (Vi), (V ₂ ), (V ₃ ), (V ₄ ) and (V ₅ ) respectively equal to a'i, a ' ₂ , a' ₃ , a ' ₄ and a's such that the sum a'i + a ' ₂ + a' ₃ + a ' ₄ + a's equals 1, and the sum a'i + 2a' ₂ + 3a ' ₃ + 4a' ₄ + 5a's equals to r '.

According to one particular aspect, the subject of the invention is the process as defined above, characterized in that the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprises at least one an oil-in-water type emulsifying surfactant which is a mixture of ethoxylated stearic acid with 120 moles of ethylene oxide and of glycerol monostearate, and more particularly that marketed under the brand name SIMULSOL ™ 165 or under brand name Arlacel ™ P135. According to a particular aspect, in the composition (C ₄ ) represented by the formula (V), G ₄ represents the remainder of a reducing sugar chosen from glucose, dextrose, sucrose, fructose, idose, gulose , galactose, maltose, isomaltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, xylose, arabinose, lyxose, allose, altrose, dextran and tallose. The said G ₄ residue is more particularly chosen from glucose, xylose and arabinose.

According to another particular aspect, in the composition (C ₄ ) represented by the formula (V), G ₄ represents the remainder of a reducing sugar chosen from glucose, xylose and arabinose, and r 'represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.5; this decimal number is in this case often less than or equal to 2.0, and for example greater than or equal to 1, 25 and less than or equal to 2.0.

According to another particular aspect, in the composition (C ₄ ) represented by the formula (V), R ₄ represents a saturated linear alkyl radical chosen from the group consisting of the n-tetradecyl radical, the n-hexadecyl radical, the n-octadecyl radical, the oleyl radical, the n-eicosyl radical, the n-dodecosyl radical, G ₄ represents the residue of a reducing sugar chosen from glucose, xylose and arabinose, and r 'represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.5; this decimal number is in this case often less than or equal to 2.0, and for example greater than or equal to 1, 25 and less than or equal to 2.0.

According to another particular aspect, the subject of the invention is the process as defined above, characterized in that the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) is in the form of an oil-in-water type emulsion, and in which the emulsifying surfactant of oil-in-water type is a mixture (M ₄ I) of compositions (C ₄ ) as defined above, said mixture (M ₄ I) comprising for 100% of its mass:

from 5% to 25% by weight, more particularly from 10% to 25% by weight, more particularly from 10% to 20% by weight of a composition (C ₄ ) represented by the formula (V), for which R ₄ represents the n-eicosyl radical and / or the n-docosyl radical, G ₄ represents the rest of the glucose, and r 'represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.5,

from 75% to 95% by weight, more particularly from 75% to 90% by weight, and even more particularly from 80% to 90% by weight of a mixture of 1-eicosanol and 1-docosanol.

According to a more particular aspect, the process as defined above, characterized in that the topical cosmetic formulation (Fi) is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, and in which the surfactant emulsifying active type oil-in-water is a mixture (M ₄₁ ) of compositions (C ₄ ) is that marketed under the brand name Montanov ™ 202.

According to another particular aspect, the subject of the invention is the process as defined above, characterized in that the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) is in the form of an oil-in-water type emulsion, and in which the emulsifying surfactant of oil-in-water type is a mixture (M ₄ 2) of compositions (C ₄ ) as defined above, said mixture (M ₄ 2) comprising for 100% of its mass:

from 10% to 60% by weight, more particularly from 10% to 50% by mass, more particularly from 15% to 50% by weight of a composition (C ₄ ) represented by the formula (V), for which R ₄ represents the n-octadecyl radical and / or the n-hexadecyl radical, G ₄ represents the rest of the glucose, and r 'represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.5,

from 40% to 90% by weight, more particularly from 50% to 90% by weight, and even more particularly from 50% to 85% by weight of a mixture of 1-octadecanol and 1-hexadecanol.

According to a more particular aspect, the process as defined above, characterized in that the topical cosmetic formulation (Fi) is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, and in which the surfactant Emulsifier oil-in-water type is a mixture (M ₄ 2) of compositions (C ₄ ) is that marketed under the brand name Montanov ™ 68.

According to another particular aspect, the subject of the invention is the process as defined above, characterized in that the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) is in the form of an oil-in-water type emulsion, and in which the emulsifying surfactant of oil-in-water type is a mixture (M ₄ 3) of compositions (C ₄ ) as defined above, said mixture (M ₄ 3) comprising for 100% of its mass:

from 5% to 25% by weight of a composition (C ₄ ) represented by the formula (V), for which R ₄ represents the n-eicosyl radical and / or the n-docosyl radical, G ₄ represents the rest of the glucose, and r 'represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.5,

from 1, 5% to 10% by weight of a composition (C ₄ ) represented by the formula (V), for which R ₄ represents the n-dodecyl radical and / or the n-tetradecyl radical, G ₄ represents the remainder of the glucose, and r 'represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1, 05 and less than or equal to 2.5,

from 1% to 10% by weight of a composition (C ₄ ) represented by the formula (V), for which R ₄ represents the n-octadecyl radical and / or the n-hexadecyl radical, G ₄ represents the glucose remains, and r 'represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1, 05 and less than or equal to 2.5,

from 45% to 80% by weight of a mixture of 1-eicosanol and 1 -docosanol from 5% to 10% by weight of a mixture of 1-dodecanol and 1-tetradecanol from 0% to 10% by weight of mixture of 1-hexadecanol and 1-octadecanol, it being understood that the sum of the components of the mixture (M ₄₃ ) is equal to 100% by weight.

According to a more particular aspect, the process as defined above characterized in that the cosmetic formulation for topical use (F) is in the form of an oil-in-water type emulsion, and in which the surfactant oil-in-water type emulsifying agent is a mixture (M43) of compositions (C4) is that marketed under the brand name Montanov ™ L.

By "aqueous phase (PA)" present in the cosmetic formulation for topical use (F) in the form of an oil-in-water type emulsion and used in the process which is the subject of the present invention, designates the phase comprising at least water, tap water, spring water, or a thermal or mineral water having a mineralization of at least 300 mg / L as described above, and optionally comprising a water-soluble organic solvent such as, for example, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-propanediol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, xylitol, erythritol , sorbitol.

According to another particular aspect, the subject of the invention is the process as defined above, characterized in that the cosmetic formulation for topical use (F) is in the form of a water-in-oil type emulsion, and comprises for 100% of its mass:

From 49% to 70% by weight of at least one aqueous phase (PA1),

From 0.5% to 10% by weight, more particularly from 0.5% to 8% by weight, and even more particularly from 0.5% to 5% by weight of a composition (Ci) as defined in claim 1; ,

From 0.5% to 5% by weight of at least one emulsifying surfactant of the water-in-oil type

From 15% to 50% by weight, more particularly from 17% to 50% by weight, and even more particularly from 20% to 50% by weight of at least one oil and / or wax.

By "aqueous phase (PA1)" present in the cosmetic formulation for topical use (F) in the form of a water-in-oil type emulsion and used in the process that is the subject of the present invention, designates the phase corresponding to the same definition as the phase (PA).

By "oil" and "wax", present in the cosmetic formulation for topical use (F) in the form of a water-in-oil type emulsion and implemented In the process which is the subject of the present invention, the oils and the waxes as defined and described above are designated for the production of the formulation (F1) in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. .

"Water-in-oil type emulsifying surfactant" present in the topical cosmetic formulation (Fi) in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion and used in the process of the present invention, denotes the chemical substance or the mixture of chemical substances which makes it possible to stabilize the droplets of water or of aqueous phase dispersed in oil and / or wax, the continuous aqueous phase (PAi) comprising water and the composition (Ci) as defined above.

As an emulsifying surfactant of water-in-oil type present in the topical cosmetic formulation (Fi) in the form of a water-in-oil type emulsion as defined above, there may be mentioned for example:

The elements of the group consisting of sorbitan laurate, for example that sold by the company SEPPIC under the brand name Montane ™ 20, sorbitan palmitate, for example that marketed by the company SEPPIC under the brand name Montane ™ 40 sorbitan stearate, for example that marketed by the company SEPPIC under the brand name Montane ™ 60, sorbitan oleate, for example that marketed by the company SEPPIC under the brand name Montane ™ 80, sorbitan sesquioleate as for example that marketed by the company SEPPIC under the brand name Montane ™ 85, sorbitan trioleate, for example that marketed by the company SEPPIC under the trade name Montane ™ 83, sorbitan isolaurate, isostearate of sorbitan, for example that marketed by the company SEPPIC under the brand name Montane ™ 70, mannitan laurate, mannitan oleate, or a mixture of these esters;

Polyesters with a molecular weight of between 1000 g. mol ¹ and 3000 g. mol ¹ and resulting from the condensation between a poly (isobutenyl) succinic acid or its anhydride, such as the HYPERMER ™ 2296 sold by the company Croda, or the mixture marketed under the brand name SIMALINE ™ IE 501 A by the company SEPPIC polyglycol polyhydroxystearates of formula (VI):

formula (VI) in which y ₂ represents an integer greater than or equal to 2 and less than or equal to 50, Z ₄ represents the hydrogen atom, the methyl radical, or the ethyl radical, Z ₃ represents a radical of formula (VII):

(VII)

formula (VII) in which y'2 represents an integer greater than or equal to 0 and less than or equal to 10, more particularly greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 10 and Z'2 represents a radical of formula (VII) as defined above, with Z2 'the same or different from Z2, or the hydrogen atom.

As an example of a water-in-oil emulsifying surfactant of formula (VI) present in formulation (F1), mention may be made of the PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate marketed under the trade name SIMALINE ™ WO by the company SEPPIC, or the mixtures comprising PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate and sold under the trade names SIMALINE ™ IE 201 A and SIMALINE ™ IE 201 B by the company SEPPIC; the composition (C5), or a mixture of composition (C5) represented by the formula (VIII):

R ₅ -O- (G ₅ ) r "-H (VIII),

formula (VIII) in which R5 represents a branched alkyl radical of formula (IX):

CH (CsH2s _{+ 1} ) (CtH2t _{+ 1} ) -CH ₂ - (IX),

formula (IX) in which t is an integer between 6 and 18, s is an integer between 4 and 18 and the sum s + t is greater than or equal to 10, and less than or equal to 22, for example the 2-butyl octyl, 2-butyl decyl, 2-hexyl octyl, 2-hexyl decyl, 2-octyl decyl, 2-hexyl dodecyl, 2-octyl dodecyl, 2-decyl tetradecyl, 2-dodecyl hexadecyl, 2-tetradecyl octadecyl radicals ,

G5 represents the rest of the xylose and r "represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 5, said composition (C5) consisting of a mixture of the compounds of formulas (VIIh), (VIII2), ( VIII3) (Viiu) and (VIII _5):

R ₅ -O- (G ₅ ) _I -H (Vllh),

R ₄₅ -O- (G ₅ ) ₂ -H (VIII 2),

R ₅ -O- (G ₅ ) ₃ -H (VIII ₃ ),

R ₅ -O- (G ₅ ) ₄ -H (VIIU),

R ₅ -O- (G ₅ ) ₅ -H (Vllls),

in the molar proportions of said compounds of formulas (Viiu), (VI 112) (Viiu), (VI ll ₄₎ and (Viiu) equal to A'H respectively, a'2, a'3, a _"4 and a'U such that the sum of "i + a '2 + a' 3 + a" ₄ + a "5 equals 1, and the sum a'h + 2a" 2 + 3a "3 + 4a" ₄ + ôa'U is equal to r ". According to a more particular aspect, in the formula (VIII) representing the composition (C5) present in the formulation (F1) in the form of a water-in-water emulsion oil and used in the process that is the subject of the present invention, Gs represents the rest of xylose, r "represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 5, and more particularly greater than or equal to 1, 0.5 and less than or equal to 2.5, and even more particularly greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.0, Rs represents a radical selected from the group consisting of the 2-octyl decyl radical, the 2-hexyl dodecyl radical, the 2-octyl dodecyl radical.

According to a particular aspect, the subject of the invention is the process as defined above, characterized in that the emulsifying surfactant of the water-in-oil type included in the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) is in the form of a water-in-oil type emulsion is a composition (Cs) or a mixture of composition (Cs), represented by the formula (VIII) in which Gs represents the rest of the xylose, r "represents a higher decimal number or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.0, and R ₅ represents the 2-octyl dodecyl radical.

According to a particular aspect, the subject of the invention is the process as defined above, characterized in that the emulsifying surfactant of the water-in-oil type included in the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) is in the form of a water-in-oil type emulsion is chosen from the group consisting of:

Sorbitan laurate, sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan stearate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan isostearate, or a mixture of these esters;

• PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate,

• The composition (Cs), or a mixture of composition (Cs), represented by the formula (VIN):

Rs-O- (G ₅ ) r "-H (VIII),

wherein Rs represents a 2-octyl dodecyl radical, Gs represents the rest of xylose and r "represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 5, said composition (Cs) being a compounds of the formulas (Vllh), (VIII _2), (VIII3) (VIIL) and (Vllls):

Rs-O- (Gs) i-H (Vllh),

R ₄₅ -O- (G ₅ ) ₂ -H (Vll),

R _S -O- (G ₅ ) ₃ -H (VI They),

R _S -O- (G ₅ ) ₄ -H (VI IU),

R _S -O- (G ₅ ) ₅ -H (Vllls),

in molar proportions of said compounds of formulas (VIII), (VIII2), (VIII3), (VI IU) and (VIII) respectively equal to a "i, a'2, a '3, a" ₄ and a " s such that the sum a "i + a'2 + a '3 + a'h + a'5 equals 1, and the sum a'h + 2a" 2 + 3a "3 + 4a" 4 + 5a " s is equal to r ". According to another particular aspect, the subject of the invention is the process as defined above in which the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi), which may be in any physical form, and more particularly in the form of a gel or an oil-in-water type emulsion or a water-in-oil type emulsion as described above, also comprises at least one cosmetic active ingredient.

As examples of active principles that may be present in the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi), used in the process that is the subject of the present invention, there are:

- Vitamins and their derivatives, for example, retinol (vitamin A) and its esters (retinyl palmitate for example), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its esters, ascorbic acid sugar derivatives (by for example, ascorbyl glucoside), tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (for example tocopherol acetate), vitamins B3 or B10 (niacinamide and its derivatives);

Compounds having a lightening or depigmenting action on the skin, for example SEPIWHITE ™ MSH, arbutin, kojic acid, hydroquinone,

VEGEWHITE ™, GATULINE ™, SYNERLIGHT ™, BIOWHITE ™, PHYTOLIGHT ™, DERMALIGHT ™, CLARISKIN ™, MELASLOW ™, DERMAWHITE ™, ETHIOLINE, MELAREST ™, GIGAWHITE ™, ALBATIN ™, LUMISKIN ™;

Compounds with a soothing action such as SEPICALM ™ S, allantoin and bisabolol;

- anti-inflammatory agents;

- Compounds showing a moisturizing action, for example urea, hydroxyureas, glycerol, polyglycerols, glycerolglucoside, diglycerolglucoside, polyglycerylglucosides, xylityl glucoside marketed under the brand name Aquaxyl ™;

- Compounds showing a slimming or lipolytic action such as caffeine or its derivatives, ADIPOSLIM ™, ADIPOLESS ™;

N-acylated proteins; N-acylated peptides, for example MATRIXIL ™; N-acyl amino acids; partial hydrolysates of N-acylated proteins; amino acids; peptides; total hydrolysts of protein;

- Vegetable extracts rich in polyphenols tannins and / or isoflavones, for example grape extracts, pine extracts, wine extracts, olive extracts; soy extracts, for example Raffermine ™; wheat extracts for example TENSINE ™ or GLIADINE ™; plant extracts rich in terpenes; freshwater or marine algae extracts; marine extracts in general such as corals;

- essential waxes; bacterial extracts; ceramides or phospholipids - Compounds with antimicrobial action or purifying action, for example LIPACIDE ™ C8G, LIPACIDE ™ UG, SEPICONTROL ™ A5, OCTOPIROX ™ or SENSIVA ™ SC50;

Compounds having an energizing or stimulating property such as Physiogenyl ™, panthenol and its derivatives such as SEPICAP ™ MP;

- Anti-aging active ingredients like SEPILIFT ™ DPHP, LIPACIDE ™ PVB, SEPIVINOL ™, SEPIVITAL ™, MANOLIVA ™, PHYTO-AGE ™, TIMECODE ™; SURVICODE ™;

- Active anti-aging photo; the active ingredients protecting the integrity of the dermal-epidermal junction;

The active agents increasing the synthesis of the components of the extracellular matrix, for example collagen, elastins, glycosaminoglycans;

- Assets acting favorably on chemical cellular communication such as cytokines or physical as integrins;

- Active ingredients that create a sensation of "heating" on the skin, such as activators of cutaneous microcirculation (for example nicotinic acid derivatives) or products that create a sensation of "freshness" on the skin (for example menthol and drifts) ;

The active agents improving the cutaneous microcirculation, for example the venotonic ones; draining assets; decongestant active ingredients, for example extracts of ginko biloba, ivy, horse chestnut, bamboo, ruscus, small holly, centalla asiatica, fucus, rosemary, willow;

Tanning agents or skin browning agents, for example dihydroxyacetone, isatin, alloxane, ninhydrin, glyceraldehyde, mesotartaric aldehyde, glutaraldehyde, erythrulose.

As examples of organic solar filters possibly present in the cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi), implemented in the method that is the subject of the present invention, mention may be made of all those appearing in cosmetic directive 76/768 / EEC modified Annex VII; as those of the families of the benzoic acid derivatives such as para-aminobenzoic acids (PABA), in particular the monoglycerol esters of PABA, the ethyl esters of N, N-propoxy PABA, the ethyl esters of N, N-diethoxy PABA ethyl esters of N, N-dimethyl PABA, methyl esters of N, N-dimethyl PABA, butyl esters of N, N-dimethyl PABA; anthranilic acid derivatives such as homomenthyl-N-acetyl anthranilate; salicylic acid derivatives such as amyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate, ethylhexyl salicylate, phenyl salicylate, benzyl salicylate, p-isopropanolphenyl salicylate; cinnamic acid derivatives such as ethylhexyl cinnamate, ethyl-4-isopropyl cinnamate, methyl-2,5-diisopropyl cinnamate, p-methoxypropyl cinnamate, p-methoxyisopropyl cinnamate, p-methoxyisoamyl cinnamate, p-methoxyoctyl cinnamate (the p-methoxy-2-ethylhexyl cinnamate), p-methoxy 2-ethoxyethyl cinnamate, p-methoxycyclohexyl cinnamate, ethyl-α-cyano-3-phenyl cinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl cinnamate cyano-3-phenyl, diparamethoxy cinnamate mono-2-ethylhexanoyl of glyceryl; benzophenone derivatives such as 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2- hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonate, 4-phenylbenzophenone, 2-ethylhexyl-4'-phenylbenzophenone-2-carboxylate, 2-hydroxy-4- n-octyloxybenzophenone, 4-hydroxy-3-carboxybenzophenone; 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -d, 1-camphor, 3- (benzylidene) -d, 1-camphor, benzalkonium methosulfate camphor; urocanic acid, ethyl urocanate; sulfonic acid derivatives such as 2-phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid-5 and its salts; the family of triazine derivatives such as hydroxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyloxyhydroxyphenyl-4-methoxyphenyltriazine, 2,4,6-trianillino- (p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxy) -1,3,5-trihydro- triazine, 4,4 - ((6 - (((1,1-dimethylethyl) amino) carbonyl phenyl) amino) -1,3,5-triazine-2,4-diyl diimino) bis- (2-ethylhexyl) benzoic acid ester, 2-phenyl-5-methylbenzoxazole, 2,2'-hydroxy-5-methylphenylbenzotriazole, 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-t-octylphenyl) benzotriazole, 2- ( 2'-hydroxy-5'-methylphenyl) benzotriazole; dibenzazine; dianisoylmethane, 4-methoxy-4 "-t-butylbenzoylmethane, 5- (3,3-dimethyl-2-norbornylidene) -3-pentan-2-one, diphenylacrylate derivatives such as 2-ethylhexyl-2- cyano-3,3-diphenyl-2-propenoate, ethyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl-2-propenoate, the family of polysiloxanes such as benzylidene malonate siloxane.

Among the inorganic solar filters, also called "inorganic screens", which can be associated with the topical formulation (Fi) used in the process that is the subject of the present invention, mention may be made of titanium oxides and zinc oxides. , cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, iron oxides yellow, red or black, chromium oxides. These inorganic screens may or may not be micronized, have undergone or not surface treatments and may be presented in the form of aqueous or oily pre-dispersions.

The following examples illustrate the invention without limiting it.

Example 1 Preparation of an Extract of Hedvchium Coronarium Roots

A root extract of Hedychium coronarium is prepared according to the method described above. In step (a), ground roots (rhyzomes) of Hedychium coronarium, having an average length of 10 centimeters, are introduced into a suitable extraction tank, then a water / ethanol mixture (50/50 v / v ) is added as extraction solvent and two extraction sequences are conducted.

In step (b), the extraction mixture is filtered using conventional filtration techniques.

In step (c), the filtrate of step (b) is concentrated by isolating the solid residues, followed by decantation of the supernatant.

In step (d), the supernatant of step (c) is filtered by the implementation of conventional filtration techniques.

In step (e), the adjustment of the clarity of the solution obtained at the end of step (d) is carried out in order to reach a concentrated solution at 20 g / l in a mixture of water and glycerol. in a glycerol / water ratio of (v / v), followed by additional filtration to obtain a final extract at the desired concentration of 2.0% (w / v).

EXAMPLE 2 Evaluation of the Effects of a Hedvchium Coronarium Root Extract (HCR Extract) on the Self-Propelled Activity of Blue Light-irradiated Fibroblasts (MPC Assav)

D - objective of the study

a) - The objective of the study is to evaluate the effects of a root extract of Hedychium coronarium (HCR extract) on the autophage activity and the integrity of its lysosomal network of fibroblasts irradiated with light blue at a wavelength of 453 nanometers. b) - Cells extracted from normal human fibroblasts (NHF) obtained after plastic surgery on a 28-year-old volunteer donor human subject (Caucasian woman) were cultured in primary monolayers.

c) the extracted cells were pretreated for 24 hours by contacting the product to be tested, then

d) the pretreated cells were irradiated with blue light and the test products were brought into contact with the irradiated cells for a further 24 hours; e) the lysosomes are then revealed by the use of a specific reactive compound . Note: cells extracted from normal human fibroblasts (NHF) obtained at the end of step b) are brought into contact with the product to be tested, without prior irradiation with blue light, and then undergo step e), as a comparison of the results.

2) Principle of the study Lysosomes are cytoplasmic organelles that allow the recycling of cellular materials that have exceeded their life time or are no longer useful.

Their main function is to digest endogenous or exogenous substrates in all eukaryotic cells (called autophagy or heterophagy).

Lysosomes cut off non-useful cell products, fats or lipids, carbohydrates, proteins and other macro-molecules into simple, small-sized compounds, which are then transferred to the cytoplasm of a new, young cell. As a result, the lipid membrane contains many enzymes, proton pumps and protein transporters. The acidity of the pH is regulated to allow a minimal activity of acid hydrolases. The fluorescent technique "Lyso Tracker" makes it easy to label in living cells (a "fluophore" is bound to a weak base, partially protonated at neutral pH). This characteristic allows the marking to be very selective with respect to acidic organelles (or lysosomes). Then, it allows to measure the effects of the radiation of the blue light. Indeed, these radiations generate the formation of free radicals which affect the lysosomal network, in its distribution in the cellular space. These phenomena can then be visualized by a specific fluorescent "LysoTracker" developer.

By "autophagy" is meant the cellular process in eukaryotic cells that allows the digestion of materials in vacuoles associated with the lysosome. Thus, lysosomes can directly incorporate cytoplasmic fragments. Autophagy is an important mechanism that allows the cell to mobilize its energy reserve to defend itself or destroy damaged organelles and thus avoid serious future complications. It is necessary for the survival of the cell and is involved in the control of longevity, aging mechanisms ^{(8) (9)} .

The MDC reagent is specific to vacuoles and specifically and quantitatively determines the autophage activity ⁽¹⁰⁾ .

3) Operating mode

the cells used for the study come from normal human fibroblast culture (NHF), obtained after a plastic surgery on a human subject voluntary donor of 28 years (Caucasian woman) were cultivated in primary monolayers,

the extract of Hedychium coronarium roots (HCR extract) tested is that prepared in example 1, and the concentration of the HCR extract tested is 2% in dry extract (w / v).

Normal human fibroblasts (NHF) were seeded at 96 wells in microplates (cell density of 10,000 cells per well, ie 30,000 NHF / cm ² ) 24 hours before treatment with HCR extract. the HCR extract is then applied to the 96 microplate wells previously prepared and left for 24 hours,

each well is then irradiated with blue light at a wavelength of 453 nanometers (40 J / cm ² , 23 mW / cm ² for 29 minutes);

the fibroblasts (NHF) are then treated with the HCR extract for 24 hours,

the fibroblast cells (NHF) are then inoculated with a complementary medium (Dulbecco modified with Eagle medium medium or DMEM (Gibco 41966), with antibiotics (Gibco 15140) and 10% with fetal vial serum or FBS (Gibco 10270)

the treatments with the HCR extract are carried out in a medium in the absence of FBS and the irradiation is carried out in the phopshate buffer (PBS).

the incubations and the treatments are carried out at a temperature of 37 ° C. and with a flow of 5% CO 2, with the exception of the irradiation which is carried out at ambient temperature.

At the end of the treatments, the wells are carefully rinsed with PBS and 0.05 millimoles of MDC are applied to the cells at 37 ° C. and in the presence of 5% CO 2, the wells are then incubated for 30 minutes. then washed, and the fluorescence is measured at a wavelength of 380 nanometers (excitation) and 525 nanometers (emission) with spectrophotometer type Tecan Safire II. The results obtained are expressed in RFU (Real Fluorescence Units); a blank test is also performed with the same equipment. This protocol is also implemented for control compounds, namely vitamin E and vitamin C, known for their protective effects vis-à-vis the blue light radiation.

4) Expression of results

- the value measured for the blank test is subtracted from the values obtained for each measurement for treated or untreated fibroblasts.

the results are expressed in RFU or fluorescence units and a Student T test is performed to evaluate the significance of each measurement.

5) Results

The results obtained are recorded in the following Table 1.

Table 1: Effect of treatment of HCR extract on the autophage activity of cells irradiated with blue light with a wavelength of 453 nanometers.

Student's test: ( ^* ): 0.01 <p <0.05 ( ^** ): 0.001 <p <0.01 ( ^*** ): p <0.001

5 6) Analysis of the results

The results show that when fibroblasts undergo blue light radiation at 453 nanometers, the autophagic activity of said fibroblasts increases. When the fibroblasts are treated with vitamin C or vitamin E, and irradiated with blue light at 453 nanometers, the autophagic activity of said treated fibroblasts decreases by about 14% for vitamin C treatment , and about 22% for the vitamin E treatment. When the fibroblasts are treated with the HCR extract at different concentrations, namely with a mass content of 0.001%, 0.005% and 0.01%, autophagic activity of said treated fibroblasts decreases by about 13%, 15% and 35% respectively.

5 Example 3 Evaluation of the Effects of an Extract of Hedvchium Coronarium Roots (HCR Extract) on the Lysosomal Network in Fibroblasts Irradiated by Blue Light (Lyso Tracker Staininq)

Seeding of the fibroblasts (NHF) is carried out according to the method described in Example 2.

The fibroblasts (NHF) are incubated in petri dishes (at a density of 250,000 cells per dish, with diameters of 60 mm, a density of about 13,000 NHF / cm ² ), in the same medium as previously described in US Pat. Example 2 (media supplemented with FBS) one day before treatment with the test products (incubation at 37 ° C, 5% CC> ₂ ). Each product tested at the desired dose (one in each dish) is applied for 24 hours (medium incubation without FBS serum, at 37 ° C / 5% CO2).

The cells are then irradiated with blue light with a wavelength of 453 nanometers under the same conditions as described in Example 2.

To proceed with the labeling of lysosomes; the cells are then incubated with a fluorescent marker (Invitrogen LysoTracker).

The cells are then observed and photographed at a magnification of x40 (Olympus CK40 Microscope, equipped with Archimed Microvision processing software) with or without an appropriate fluorescent filter. These photographs make it possible to qualitatively assess the state of the lysosomal network and whole cells.

Examination of the photographs carried out in the framework of this test makes it possible to observe the conservation or not of the "needle" shape of the fibroblasts having undergone the irradiation with blue light as described previously and also the quality of the organization of the lysosomal network. On the basis of these observations, we note:

"Needle shape" (A), when the shape of the fibroblast remains in its original form "absence of needle shape", when the initial form of the fibroblast is no longer observed (no A)

"Organized" (O) when the lysosome network maintains an organization level identical to or close to the original fibroblast network

"Unorganized" (non-O), when the lysosome network no longer has an identical level of organization or is close to the initial fibroblast network

The results obtained are shown in Table 2 below.

Table 2: effect of treatment of HCR extract on the protection of the lysosomal network and lysosomes of cells irradiated with blue light with a wavelength of 453 nanometers. a) Comments

Treatment of fibroblasts with the three levels of HCR extract allows protection of the damaged lysosomal network by irradiation with blue light.

Bibliography

(1): Schulze et al., "Stiffening of human skin fibroblasts with age; Clin. Plast. Surg .; 2012; 39 (1): 9-20.

(2): Baraibar and Friguet, "Oxidative proteome modifications target specifies cellular pathways during oxidative stress, cellular senescence and aging"; Exp Gerontol; 2013; 48 (7): 620-5.

(3): Kondo et al., "Inhibitory effects of human serum on human feast skin fibroblast migration: migration-inhibitory activity and substances in serum, and its age-related changes"; In Vitro Cell Dev Biol Anim; 2000; 36 (4): 256-61.

(4): Jang et al., Prolonged activation of ERK contributes to the photorejuvenation effect in photodynamic therapy in human dermal fibroblasts; JID; 2013; 133 (9): 2265-75. (5): Blufence UV, protection against blue light, phthalmic vision, 2017 [on line].

(6) Kuse Y et al. Damage of photoreceptor-derived cells in culture induced light emitting diode-derived blue light, Sci. Rep. 2014 Jun 9; 4: 5223

(7) Denda M, Fuziwata S, "visible radiation affects epidermal permeability barrier recovery: selective effects of red and blue light", J. Invest Dermatol. 2008 May; 128 (5): 1335-

6

(8) "Autophagy fights disease trough cellular self-digestion", Mizushima N., Levine B., Cuervo AM., Klionsky DJ., Nature 2008; 451 (7182): 1069-75

(9) "Autophagy and human diseases" Jiang P, Mizushima N., Cell Res. 2014; 24 (1): 69-79

(10) "Monodansylcadaverine (MDC) is a specific in vivo marker for vaculoles autophagy" Biederbick A., Kern HF, Elsasser HP, Eur. J Cell Biol. 1995; 66 (1): 3-14.

Illustrative Formulations

In the following formulations, the percentages are expressed as percentage by mass for 100% of the mass of the formulation.

Example 4: oil-in-water emulsion

Water qs 100%

Montanov ™ L 3%

Triglyceride C8-C10 6%

Emogreen ™ L15 3%

Sweet almond oil 1%

Sepimax ™ Zen 0.9%

Sepinov ™ EMT 10 0.4%

Euxyl ™ PE9010 1%

Sensiva ™ PA 40 0.5%

Perfume 0.05%

HCR extract 3%

Example 5: Oil-in-water emulsion

Water qs 100%

Triethanol amine qs pH 5.5 to 6

Simulsol ™ 165 3%

Triglyceride C8-C10 6%

Emogreen ™ L15 3%

Sweet almond oil 1% Sepimax ™ Zen 0.9%

Sepinov ™ EMT 10 0.4%

Euxyl ™ PE9010 1%

Sensiva ™ PA 40 0.5%

Perfume 0.05%

HCR extract 3%

Example 6: Care cream

Cyclomethicone: 10%

SIMULGEL ™ EG: 0.8%

Montanov ™ 68: 2%

Stearyl alcohol: 1%

Stearyl alcohol: 0.5%

Conservative: 0.65%

Lysine: 0.025%

EDTA (disodium salt): 0.05%

Xanthan gum: 0.2%

Glycerin: 3%

HCR extract 3%

Water: q.s. 100%

Example 8: Solar milk

FORMULA

At Montanov ™ 68: 3.0%

Sesame oil: 5.0%

PARSOL ™ MCX: 5.0%

Carrageenan l: 0.10%

B Water: q.s. 100%

HCR extract 3%

C SIMULGEL ™ EG: 0.80

D Perfume: q.s.

Curator: q.s.

PROCEDURE: Emulsify B in A at 60 ° C then add C at 60 ° C, then D at 30 ° C and adjust the pH if necessary.

Example 9: Body Milk

Montanov ™ 202: 3.5% LANOL ™ 37T: 8.0%

SOLAGUM ™ L: 0.05%

Water: q.s. 100%

Benzophenone-3: 2.0%

Dimethicone 350cPs: 0.05%

Simiulgel ™ NS: 2.5%

HCR extract 3%

Conservative: 0.2%

Perfume: 0.4%

EXAMPLE 10 Cleansing Emulsion with Sweet Almond Oil

Montanov ™ 202: 5%

Sweet almond oil: 5%

Water: q.s. 100%

SIMULGEL ™ EG: 0.3%

HCR extract 3%

Glycerin: 5%

Conservative: 0.2%

Perfume: 0.3%

Example 11: moisturizing cream for oily skin

Montanov ™ 68: 5%

Cetylstearyloctanoate: 8%

Octyle palmitate: 2%

Water: q.s. 100%

SIMULGEL ™ EG: 2.6%

MICROPEARL ™ M100: 3.0%

Mucopolysaccharides: 5%

SEPICIDE ™ HB: 0.8%

Perfume: 0.3%

HCR extract 3%

Example 12: Cleansing Milk

Montanov ™ 68: 3%

PRIMOL ™ 352: 8.0%

Sweet almond oil: 2%

Water: qsp 100% SIMULGEL ™ EG: 0.8%

Conservative: 0.2%

3% HCR extract Example 13: Solar milk

Montanov ™ L: 3.5%

LANOL ™ 37T: 10.0%

PARSOL ™ MCX: 5.0%

EUSOLEX ™ 4360: 2.0% Water: q.s. 100%

SIMULGEL ™ EG: 1, 8%

UNHCR extract: 3%

Conservative: 0.2%

Perfume: 0.4%

Example 14: Bronzing emulsion without sun

LANOL ™ 99: 15%

Montanov ™ 68: 3.0%

PARSOL ™ MCX: 3.0% Water: q.s. 100%

Dihydroxyacetone: 5.0%

Monosodium phosphate: 0.2%

Simulgel ™ EG: 2.5%

HCR extract: 3% Perfume: 0.3%

SEPICIDE ™ HB: 0.8%

Sodium hydroxide: q.s. pH = 5.

Example 15: Care Cream

Cyclomethicone: 10%

Simulgel ™ EG: 2.8%

Montanov ™ 202: 4.5%

Conservative: 0.65%

Lysine: 0.025% EDTA (disodium salt): 0.05%

Xanthan gum: 0.2%

Glycerin: 3% UNHCR extract: 3%

Water: qsp. 100%

Example 16: Sunscreen

SIMULSOL ™ 165: 3%

Montanov ™ 68: 2%

Benzoate C12-C15: 8%

PECOSIL ™ PS 100: 2%

Dimethicone: 2%

Cyclomethicone: 5%

Octyl para-methoxy cinnamate: 6%

Benzophenone-3: 4%

Titanium oxide: 8%

Xanthan gum: 0.2%

Butylene glycol: 5%

Demineralized water: qsp 100%

Simulgel ™ EG: 1.5%

UNHCR extract: 3%

Conservative, perfume: qs

Example 17: Sunblock and self-tanning gel

Montanov ™ 68: 3.0%

Glyceryl triheptanoate: 10.0%

DEEPALINE ™ PVB: 1.05%

Simulgel ™ EG: 2.2%

Water: qs 100%

Dihydroxyacetone: 5%

UNHCR extract: 2%

Perfume: 0.1%

SEPICIDE ™ HB: 0.3%

SEPICIDE ™ Cl: 0.1%

PARSOL ™ MCX: 4.0%

The definitions of the commercial products used in the examples are as follows: MICROPEARL ™ M 100 is an ultra-fine powder with a very soft feel and mattifying action marketed by MATSUMO SEPICIDE ™ Cl, imidazolidine urea, is a preservative marketed by the company SEPPIC.

SIMULSOL ™ 165 is self-emulsifiable glycerol stearate marketed by the company SEPPIC.

SEPICIDE ™ HB, which is a mixture of phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben and butylparaben, is a preservative marketed by the company SEPPIC.

PARSOL ™ MCX is octyl para-methoxy cinnamate; marketed by the company G I VAU DAN.

LANOL ™ 37T is glycerol triheptanoate, marketed by the company SEPPIC. SOLAGUM ™ L is a carrageenan marketed by the company SEPPIC.

EUSOLEX ™ 4360 is a solar filter marketed by MERCK.

DEEPALINE ™ PVB is an acylated wheat protein hydrolyzate marketed by the company SEPPIC.

PRIMOL ™ 352 is a mineral oil marketed by the company EXXON.

PECOSIL ™ PS 100 is Dimethicone PEG-7 marketed by the company PHOENIX. Montanov ™ 68 (INCI name Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside) is an emulsifying agent marketed by the company SEPPIC

Montanov ™ L (INCI name C14-22 Alcohols (and) C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside) is an emulsifying agent marketed by the company SEPPIC.

Montanov ™ 202 (INCI name Arachidyl Alcohol & Behenyl Alcohol & Arachidyl)) is an emulsifying agent marketed by the company SEPPIC.

SIMULGEL ™ EG (INCI name: sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer and isohexadecane and polysorbate 80): Reverse latex used as thickening agent EMOGREEN ™ L15 (INCI name: C13-C15 alkanes) is an emollient

EUXYL ™ PE9010 (INCI name: Phenoxyethanol & Ethylhexylglycerin): Composition used as a preservative.

SEPINOV ™ EMT 10 (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer) is a thickening agent.

SEPIMAX ™ Zen (INCI name: Polyacryalte Crosspolymer-6) is a thickening agent

Claims

1. A method for preventing or slowing the appearance of signs of aging of human skin or lips generated by the oxidative stress caused by exposure to blue light, or for eliminating said signs, comprising at least a step of application to human skin or to the lips, of a cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) comprising for 100% of its mass:

(1) - from 90% to 99.5% by weight of at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient, and

(2) - From 0.5% to 10% by weight of a composition (Ci), said composition (Ci) comprising for 100% of its mass:

a) - from 90% to 99% by weight of at least one composition (C ₂ ) comprising for 100% of its own mass:

(i) - from 40% to 80% by weight of at least one compound of formula (I):

H0- [CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ -O-] _n H (I),

(ii) - From 20% to 60% by mass of water

b) - From 1% to 3% by weight of an extract (EX) of the plant of the species Hedychium coronarium.

2. Method as defined in claim 1, characterized in that said plant extract (EX) of the species Hedychium coronarium comes from the roots and / or rhizomes of said plant species Hedychium coronarium.

3. Process as defined in any one of claims 1 or 2, wherein the compound of formula (I) is glycerol.

4. A method as defined in any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that said signs of aging of the human skin or lips are wrinkles, fine lines or an alteration of the microrelief of human skin or skin. lips.

5. A method as defined in any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that said signs of aging of the human skin or lips are the lack of elasticity and / or tone of the human skin or skin. lips.

6. A method as defined in any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that said signs of aging of human skin or lips are lack of density and / or firmness of human skin or lips .

7. Process as defined in any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that said cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) is in the form of a gel and comprises for 100% of its mass:

From 0.5% to 10% by weight of said composition (Ci),

From 0.5% to 10% by weight of at least one thickening agent chosen from branched and / or crosslinked polymers, polysaccharides consisting solely of monosaccharides, polysaccharides consisting of monosaccharides, cellulose, cellulose derivatives , and

From 80% to 99% by mass of water.

8. Process as defined in any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that said cosmetic formulation for topical use (Fi) is in the form of an oil-in-water type emulsion, and comprises for 100% of its mass:

From 5% to 42% by weight of at least one oil and / or wax,

From 0.5% to 10% by weight of said composition (Ci),

From 0.5% to 8% by weight of at least one emulsifying surfactant of the oil-in-water type

From 40% to 94.0% by weight of at least one aqueous phase (PA).

9. A method as defined in claim 8, characterized in that in said topical cosmetic formulation (Fi), said at least one emulsifying surfactant of the oil-in-water type is chosen from mixtures of stearic acid ethoxylated with 120 moles of ethylene oxide and glycerol monostearate, the composition (C ₄ ), represented by the formula (V): R ₄ -O- (G ₄ ) r'-H (V), in which R ₄ represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical which may comprise at least one hydroxyl function, and comprising from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, G ₄ represents the remainder of a reducing sugar and r 'represents a decimal number greater than or equal to at 1, 05 and less than or equal to 5, said composition (C ₄ ) consisting of a mixture of the compounds of formulas (Vi), (V ₂ ), (V ₃ ), (V ₄ ) and (V ₅ ):

R ₄ -O- (G ₄ ) 1H (VI),

R ₄ -O- (G ₄ ) ₂ -H (V ₂ ),

R ₄ -O- (G ₄ ) ₃ -H (V ₃ ),

R ₄ -O- (G ₄ ) ₄ -H (V ₄ ),

R ₄ -O- (G ₄ ) ₅ -H (V ₅ ), in molar proportions of said compounds of formulas (Vi), (V ₂ ), (V ₃ ), (V ₄ ) and (V ₅ ) respectively equal to ai, a'2, a'3, a ' ₄ and a '5 such that the sum a'i + a'2 + a'3 + a' ₄ + a'5 equals 1, and the sum a'1 + 2a'2 + 3a'3 + 4a ' ₄ + 5a's is equal to r ', or a mixture of said compositions (C ₄ ).

10. A method as defined in any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that said cosmetic formulation for topical use (F1) is in the form of a water-in-oil type emulsion, and comprises for 100% of its mass:

From 49% to 70% by weight of at least one aqueous phase (PA)

From 0.5% to 10% by weight of said (Ci),

From 0.5% to 5% by weight of at least one emulsifying surfactant of the water-in-oil type, and

From 15% to 50% by weight of at least one oil and / or wax.

1. The process as defined in claim 10, characterized in that in said topical cosmetic formulation (F1) said at least one emulsifying surfactant of water-in-oil type is chosen from sorbitan laurate, palmitate and sorbitan, sorbitan stearate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan isostearate, or a mixture of these esters; PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, the composition (C ₅ ) represented by formula (VIII):

R ₅ -O- (G ₅ ) r "-H (VIII),

formula (VI II) in which R ₅ represents a 2-octyl dodecyl radical, Gs represents the rest of xylose and r "represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 5, said composition (C ₅ ) consisting of a mixture of compounds of formulas (VII I1), (I2 VII), (VI I I3), (VI 11 ₄₎ and (VI I I5):

R ₅ -O- (G ₅ ) _I -H (VI II1),

R ₄₅ -O- (G ₅ ) ₂ -H (VIII 2),

R ₅ -O- (G ₅ ) ₃ -H (VIII ₃ ),

R ₅ -O- (G ₅ ) ₄ -H (VIIU),

R ₅ -O- (G ₅ ) ₅ -H (VI 11 ₅ ),

in molar proportions to said compounds of formulas (VI II ₁ ), (VI II ₂ ), (VI II ₃ ), (VI 11 ₄ ) and (VII I5) respectively equal to a "i, a'2, a ' 3, a " ₄ and a '5 such that the sum a" i + a' 2 + a '3 + a " ₄ + a' 5 is equal to 1, and that the sum a" i + 2a "2 + 3a" 3 + 4a " ₄ + 5a" s is equal to r "; or a mixture of said compositions (C ₅ ).