FR3027519A1 - USE OF ISOSORBID ESTERS AND N-ACYL DERIVATIVES OF AMINO ACIDS AS A BROWNING AND / OR TANNING AGENT FOR HUMAN SKIN - Google Patents

Abstract

On behalf of: Company Operating Products for Chemical Industries-SEPPIC Inventors: Laetitia CATTUZZATO, Sandy DUMONT, Jerome GUILBOT Abstract: Use of a compound of formula (I): wherein R 'and R ", represent an atom hydrogen or a radical or a composition (C1) comprising 99% to 20% by weight of at least one compound of formula (Ia) and from 1% to 80% by weight of at least one compound of formula (Ib) ): formula (Ib) in which the radical R, represents a radical for browning and / or tanning the human skin, in a cosmetic composition Browning method and composition and medicament.

Description

The subject of the present invention is the use of esters of N-acyl derivatives of amino acids and of isosorbide as a coloring agent for the skin of the human body, as well as non-therapeutic treatment methods intended for tanning and / or browning the skin of the human body using cosmetic compositions for topical use comprising said esters of N-acyl derivatives of amino acids and isosorbide. Human skin is the first image offered in the eyes of others, and therefore, the improvement of its appearance is a subject of constant concern for human beings. The skin is a reflection of a state of well-being, often associated with youth, and a contrario a state of fatigue and / or aging. Thus, a tanned complexion and tanned skin are signs of good health and people are attaching more and more importance to this appearance of "good looks". The color of the skin results from the combination of two biological components: the vascularization and the pigmentation of the skin; said pigmentation of the skin being the resultant of the quantities of melanins and carotenes present in human skin.

Melanins are produced by specific epidermal cells: melanocytes. These are found at the level of the basal layer of the epidermis or in the hair follicles. Melanins are large cells with many long extensions called dendrites. These dendrites come into contact with the surrounding keratinocytes, which may be up to two superior cell bases, to transmit the melanin grouped in melanosomes. Epidermal Unit of Melanization (EMU), the group of melanocytes and keratinocytes, interacting together to give color to the skin. An EMU comprises in particular a melanocyte and forty keratinocytes. The process of melanogenesis itself includes melanin synthesis by melanocytes, their transfer and distribution to neighboring keratinocytes. The synthesis of melanins occurs in melanocytes, and more particularly in specialized organelles, melanosomes. This synthesis is made from tyrosine and involves several enzymes, including tyrosinase which is the first enzyme to intervene in the reaction chain.

There are two main groups of melanins: eumelanins (brown or black) and phaeomelanines (yellow-orange). The maturation of melanosomes goes through four stages in order to be mature and able to be transferred to keratinocytes. During their maturation, melanosomes migrate to the end of the dendrites through a system of microtubules and microfilaments. The transfer between melanocytes and keratinocytes is done by a more or less detailed system of phagocytosis / endocytosis / pinocytosis, via in particular a PAR-2 membrane receptor. The pigmentation of the skin can either be constitutive or induced. The constitutive pigmentation is based on the genetic heritage of the individual, hormonal factors and age.

The induced pigmentation results mainly from ultraviolet radiation exposures. It appears between 48 hours and 72 hours after exposure of the skin to ultraviolet radiation and disappears quickly after the exposure has stopped. This induction of pigmentation results in particular from an activation of tyrosinase, an increase in the size and number of melanocytes and an increase in the transfer of melanosomes to keratinocytes. An indirect action on keratinocytes also comes into play to promote the process of melanogenesis by the secretion of soluble factors. An increase in the synthesis and / or activity of melanogenic enzymes allowing an increase in the amount of melanins produced by melanocytes, and more generally in the biogenesis of melanosomes, their transport and transfer to keratinocytes, will lead to their visible manifestation. know the coloring and / or natural browning of human skin. Natural tanning is not always recommended because it requires prolonged exposure to the sun's radiation, and more particularly to ultraviolet radiation from the sun, and more particularly to UV-A and UV-B radiation from the sun, which causes the skin to turn brown. human, but which also cause unwanted reactions and alteration of human skin, especially for sensitive skin. Among these reactions and alterations, mention may be made of erythema, burning, external signs of aging of the skin, for example alteration or loss of elasticity, lack of tone, lack of firmness, appearance or digging wrinkles or fine lines of human skin. The Ministry of Health and Social Protection, in collaboration with INPES and the Health Insurance, under the cancer plan, recently drafted recommendations on these exposures in order to limit the risk of developing skin cancers. To combine a tanned skin and an unaltered skin, there are products for tanning and / or artificial browning of the skin, for example the carbonyl-containing chemical substances which, by interaction with the amino acids of human skin, allow the formation of colored products on the surface of the skin. Mention may be made, for example, of mono- or polycarbonyl compounds such as dihydroxyacetone (DHA), erythrulose, mesotartaric aldehyde, glutaraldehyde, glyceraldehyde, alloxane and ninhydrin.

DHA is the most commonly used self-tanning agent for the preparation of cosmetic compositions intended to brown and / or artificially tan human skin as it provides an external tanning or browning effect of human skin similar to the one that can result from exposure to sunlight. However, the DHA has disadvantages: its effectiveness is not universal, the color generated by its application to the skin depends on the type of skin, and the consumer may encounter problems of unevenness in the coloring obtained on the skin. DHA has the disadvantage of degrading over time, depending on the cosmetic medium in which it is formulated, partially oxidizing during storage, which manifests itself in the eventual appearance of a color yellowish or even orange of the cosmetic composition comprising it. To overcome the disadvantages of DHA as a self-tanning agent for human skin, the cosmetic industry has deployed over the last twenty years many solutions, including combining DHA with other cosmetically acceptable ingredients. The European patent published under the number EP 0 425 324 B1, which discloses the combination of DHA with an indole derivative for coloring human skin in an intense and rapid manner over time, can be cited. In addition, academic studies have highlighted the possibility of long-term genotoxicity of DHA (1). To achieve a tanned skin, there are also specific technologies for exposure to ultraviolet radiation, such as cabins called "UV cabins", which are enclosed spaces in which the subject is subjected for a variable duration to UV-radiation. A (320-400 nm). Their regular use is, however, harmful to human health. There are also chemical substances and compositions, more particularly extracts of plants or bacteria, which are disclosed as a coloring agent for human skin. There may be mentioned the French patent application published under the number FR 2 973 697 A1 which discloses the use of a hydroglycolic extract of Tribulus terrestris and of chaulmoogra oil in cosmetic compositions for pigmenting the skin. The use of plant extracts, bacteria, however, has the disadvantage of showing unreliable and non-repetitive performance over time due to the variability of the content of the raw materials used to obtain them. There are also active synthetic ingredients, for example peptides and polypeptides, which are described as coloring agents for human skin. The French patent application published under the number FR 2 970 968 A1 discloses the increase of the amount of melanin in biopsies of human skin, treated with peptide compounds. The French patent published under the number FR 2 913 685 B1 discloses the use, as agents for treating disorders of skin pigmentation, of unsaturated fatty amino acid derivatives of formula (A): NH 2 -CH 2 [CH (Rn)] - CH2 = CH (R1) -COOR (A) in which Rn represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by a halogen more particularly fluorine; R1 represents a hydrogen, fluorine, chlorine or bromine atom or a -CF3 group or a linear or branched alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; R represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by a halogen, in particular fluorine; n represents an integer between 2 and 14. The French patent application published under the number FR 2 827 511 A1 discloses self-tanning compositions comprising self-tanning agents and N-acylated esters of amino acids of general formula (B): R'1- (C = O) -N (R'2) -CH (R'3) (CH2) (C = O) OR'4 (B) wherein n represents an integer equal to 0, 1 or 2; R'1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical containing from 5 to 21 carbon atoms; R'2 represents the hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 3 carbon atoms; R'3 represents a radical chosen from the group consisting of a hydrogen atom, a methyl group and an ethyl group, a linear or branched alkyl radical containing 3 or 4 carbon atoms; R'4 represents a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, or a linear or branched alkenyl radical containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms or a sterol residue. The French patent application published under the number FR 2 827 511 A1 specifically discloses self-tanning compositions comprising self-tanning agents and isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, and the use of the compounds of formula (B) to improve the stability and coloring of the compositions comprising a self-tanning agent. Japanese Patent Application No. 2000-229121 discloses the use of N-acylamino acid ester polyols as high performance surfactants. The international application published under the number VVO 2010/034917 describes the mono-esters and di-esters of polyols of N- (w-undecylenoyl) phenylalanine, and more particularly the mono-esters and diesters resulting from the reaction of the glycerol and N- (w-undecylenoyl) phenylalanine, and their uses as lightening agents in human skin. The international application published under the number VVO 2013/001192 A1 describes mono-esters and diesters resulting from the esterification reaction between isosorbide and N-acylated amino acid derivatives, their uses as an active agent cosmetic, to prevent and / or limit the unsightly effects generated by the hypoxia of the endothelial cells of the human body, and more particularly to prevent and / or limit the unsightly effects generated by dark circles, periocular bags and / or legs heavy.

In the context of their search for new active agents for coloring and / or browning the skin of the human body, the inventors have endeavored to develop a new technical solution consisting in the use of products resulting from the esterification reaction between the skin and the skin. isosorbide and N-acylated derivatives of amino acids for staining and / or browning the skin of the human body, and a cosmetic process for tanning and / or browning the skin of the human body by applying to said skin a cosmetic formulation for topical use comprising said products resulting from the esterification reaction between isosorbide and N-acyl derivatives of amino acids. This is why, according to a first aspect, the subject of the invention is the use of a compound of formula (I): OR "R'0 (I) in which R 'and R", which are identical or different, represent either a hydrogen atom or a monovalent radical of formula (IIa): ## STR5 ## wherein formula (11a) in which either the group R 1 -C (= O) - represents the octanoyl radical and R 2 represents the isopropyl radical, or the R1-C (= O) - group represents the octanoyl radical and R2 represents the isobutyl radical, or the R1-C (= O) group represents the (wundecylenoyl) radical and R2 represents the radical; isobutyl, or the group R1-C (= O) - represents the octanoyl radical and R2 represents the (1-methyl) propyl radical; is a monovalent radical of formula (I lb): R 1 0 (11b), formula (11b) in which the group R 1 -C (= O) - represents the radical (w-undecylenoyl), or a mixture of compounds of formula (1), it being understood that at least one of the radicals R 'or R "does not represent a hydrogen atom and that when none of the radicals R' and R" represents a hydrogen atom, R and R "are identical, or a mixture of compound of formula (1), said use being for the purpose of browning and / or tanning the human skin and said use being in a cosmetic composition. In particular, the subject of the invention is the use as defined above of a composition (Cl) comprising for 100% of its mass: from 99% by weight to 20% by weight, more particularly from 99% by mass to 50% by weight. % by mass, and even more particularly from 95% by mass to 75% by weight, of at least one compound of formula (Ia) OH R'O (la), formula (Ia) in which R 'rep is a monovalent radical of formula (11a): ## STR2 ## wherein either the group R 1 -C (= O) - represents the octanoyl radical and R 2 represents the radical isopropyl, or the group R1-C (= O) - represents the octanoyl radical and R2 represents the isobutyl radical, or the group R1-C (= O) - represents the w-undecylenoyl radical and R2 represents the isobutyl radical, or the group R 1 -C (= O) - represents the octanoyl radical and R 2 represents the 1-methylpropyl radical; or a monovalent radical of formula (11b): ## STR2 ## wherein formula (11b) in which the group R 1 -C (= O) - represents the w-undecylenoyl radical, From 1 wt% to 80 wt%, more particularly from 1 wt% to 50 wt%, and even more particularly from 5 wt% to 25 wt% of at least one compound of formula (lb): OR RO (lb), formula (Ib) in which the radical R, represents either a monovalent radical of formula (IIa): ## STR2 ## wherein formula (IIa) in which either the group R1-C (= O) represents the octanoyl radical and R2 represents the isopropyl radical, or the R1-C (= O) group represents the octanoyl radical and R2 represents the isobutyl radical, or the R1-C (= O) group represents the radical; wundecylenoyl and R2 is isobutyl, or R1-C (= O) - is octanoyl and R2 is 1-methylpropyl; a monovalent radical of formula (11b): ## STR2 ## wherein formula R 1 -C (= O) represents the w-undecylenoyl radical, said use being for the purpose of browning and / or tanning the human skin and said use being in a cosmetic composition. By "browning and / or tanning of human skin" is meant, in the sense of the invention, a modification of the external appearance of the skin resulting in the appearance and development of a brown color, more or less intense, from the surface of human skin. According to another particular aspect, the subject of the invention is the use as described above for which in the monovalent radical (11a) compounds of formulas (1), (Ia) and (Ib), or the group R1- C (= O) - represents the octanoyl radical and R2 represents the isopropyl radical, or the R1-C (= O) group represents the octanoyl radical and R2 represents the isobutyl radical, or the R1-C (= O) group represents the wundecylenoyl radical and R2 represents the isobutyl radical, or the R1-C (= O) group represents the octanoyl radical and R2 represents the radicall-methyl propyl radical.

According to another particular aspect, the invention relates to the use as described above for which in the monovalent radical (11b) compounds of formulas (1), (la) and (Ib), the group R1-C ( = 0) - represents the w-undecylenoyl radical. According to another very particular aspect of the present invention, the subject of the present invention is the use as described previously of isosorbide N-octanoyl valinate, isosorbide N-octanoyl isoleucinate and N- (w-undecylenoyl). isosorbide isoleucinate, isosorbide N-octanoyl leucinate or isosorbide N- (w-undecylenoyl) prolinate. According to another very particular aspect of the present invention, the subject of the present invention is the use as described above of bis (N-octanoyl valinate) of isosorbide, bis (Noctanoyl isoleucinate) of isosorbide, bis [N - (w-undecylenoyl) isoleucinate] isosorbide, bis [N-octanoyl isoleucinate] isosorbide or bis [N- (w-undecylenoyl) prolinate] isosorbide. The compound of formula (1) as defined above may be prepared according to a preparation process comprising: - a step of esterification: - Either of a compound of formula (IIIa): ## STR1 ## in which the radicals R 1 -C (= O) - and R 2 are as defined in formula (11a), or a compound of formula (IIIb): ## STR2 ## wherein R1-C (= O) - is as defined for the formula (11b), with the isosorbide of formula (IV): OH HO (IV), to obtain either the compound of formula (Ia) or the compound of formula (Ib), that is a mixture (M) of the compound of formula (Ia) and of the compound of formula (Ib); and if necessary or if desired, - a step b) of separating the compounds of formula (Ia) and formula (Ib), from said mixture (M) obtained in step (a). The compounds of formulas (IIIa) and (IIIb) are known or are synthesizable by N-acylation of the corresponding α-amino acids, according to methods known to those skilled in the art. In the process as defined above, the molar ratio of compound of formula (IIIa) or of formula (IIIb) on isosorbide of formula (IV) is generally between 3/1 and 1/5, more particularly between 1/1 and 1/5, and even more particularly between 1/1 and 1/3.

In the process as defined above, the step b) of separating the compounds of formula (Ia) and of formula (Ib) is carried out by the conventional separation methods known to those skilled in the art. The compound of formula (I) as defined above may also be prepared according to a preparation process comprising: an esterification step a1), or of a compound of formula (IIIa): ## STR2 ## ), in which the radicals R1-C (= O) - and R2 are as defined in formula (11a), or of a compound of formula (IIIb) ## STR1 ## in which the radical R1-C (= O) - is as defined for formula (11b), with an alcohol of formula (V): R5-OH (V), in which R5 represents a linear aliphatic radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms carbon, to form: - Let a compound of formula (VIa): ## STR3 ## in which the radicals R 1 -C (= O) -, R 2 and R 5 are as defined above, - or a compound of formula (VIb): ## STR2 ## wherein the radicals R 1 -C (= O) - and R 5 are as previously defined; A step a2) of trans-esterification of the compound of formula (Via) or of the compound of formula (VIb) obtained in step a1), by reaction with the isosorbide of formula (IV), to obtain either the compound of formula (Ia), either the compound of formula (Ib), or a mixture (M) of the compound of formula (Ia) and the compound of formula (Ib); and if necessary or if desired, - The implementation of step b). In the process as described above, step a1) is generally carried out at a temperature of about 60 ° C to 120 ° C, under an inert gas, and in the presence of an acidic catalyst system. By acidic catalytic system are meant strong acids such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, nitric acid, hypophosphorous acid, methanesulfonic acid, para-toluene sulfonic acid, trifluoromethanesulfonic acid, or acidic ion exchange resins. In step a1) of the process as described above, the molar ratio of compound of formula (IIIa) or compound of formula (IIIb) on alcohol of formula (V) is generally between 1/1 and 1/10, more particularly between 1/1 and 1/8, and even more particularly between 1/2 and 1/8. In the process as described above, step a2) of trans-esterification of the ester of formula (Via) or of formula (VIb) obtained in step a1) is generally carried out at a temperature of about between 80 ° C and 180 ° C, more particularly between 100 ° C and 150 ° C, even more particularly between 120 ° C and 150 ° C under an inert gas, and in the presence of an acid catalyst system such as previously described, and with vacuum distillation of the alcohol of formula (V) formed in-situ.

In step a2) of the process as described above, the molar ratio compound of formula (Via) or of formula (VIb) on isosorbide of formula (V) is between 3/1 and 1/5, more particularly between 1/1 and 1/5, and even more particularly between 1/1 and 1/3. The composition (C1) as defined above can be prepared by various routes.

A first route of preparation of the composition (C1), used in the object of the invention, consists in mixing, in the desired mass proportions, the compound of formula (Ia) as defined above, with the compound of formula (Ib) as defined above. A second route of preparation of the composition (C1), used in the object of the invention, consists in carrying out the process for preparing the compound of formula (1) as described above, by reacting in the desired proportions, the isosorbide of formula (IV) with the compound of formula (IIIa) and / or the compound of formula (IIIb). A third route of preparation of the composition (C1), used in the object of the invention, consists in implementing the variant of the process for the preparation of the compound of formula (I) as described above, by react in the desired proportions, the compound of formula (IIIa) or the compound (IIIb) with the alcohol of formula (V), then the isosorbide of formula (IV). The invention also relates to a method for the purpose of browning and / or tanning human skin comprising at least one step A of application to said human skin of a cosmetic formulation for topical use comprising at least one cosmetically excipient and an effective amount of at least one compound of formula (I) or a composition (C1) as defined above. The expression "for topical use" used in the definition of the cosmetic formulation used in step A) of the cosmetic process that is the subject of the present invention means that said formulation is implemented by application to the skin, that it is a direct application in the case of a cosmetic formulation or an indirect application when the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is impregnated on a support intended to be placed in contact with the skin (paper, wipe, textile, transdermal device, etc ...).

The expression "cosmetically acceptable" used in the definition of the cosmetic formulation for topical use, used in step A) of the cosmetic process that is the subject of the present invention, means according to the directive of the Council of the European Economic Community No. 76/768 / EEC of 27 July 1976 as amended by Directive 93/35 / EEC of 14 June 1993, that the said formulation for topical use includes any substance or preparation intended to be placed in contact with the various parts of the human body ( epidermis, hair and hair system, nails, lips and genitals) or with oral teeth and mucous membranes with a view, exclusively and principally, to clean them, to perfume them, to modify their appearance and / or to correct body odor and / or protect or maintain it in good condition. By effective amount of the compound of formula (I) or a composition (Cl) as defined above present in the cosmetic formulation for topical use implemented in step A) of the cosmetic process object of the present invention means for 100% of the mass of said cosmetic formulation for topical use, the amount of between 0.1% and 5% by weight, more particularly between 0.1% and 3% by weight, and even more particularly between 0.5% and 2%; % by weight of compound of formula (I) or composition (Cl). In a particular embodiment, the method as defined above further comprises a step B of exposure to sunlight or ultraviolet radiation generated by an artificial light device, said human skin having undergone said step A. Among the artificial light devices capable of generating ultraviolet radiation and capable of being used in step B) of the cosmetic tanning or browning process of the human skin which is the subject of the present invention, mention may be made for example ultraviolet lamps, consisting of one or more fluorescent lamps emitting ultraviolet radiation, 95% of which consists of ultraviolet-A radiation (wavelength 400 to 315 nanometers) and 5% consisting of ultraviolet-B radiation (wavelength 315 to 280 nanometers) (with a margin of error of ± 3%). Advantageously, the cosmetic tanning or browning process of human skin, comprising steps A) and B) as described above, makes it possible to obtain a tanning or browning of the treated skin after short duration, characterized by a greater intensity of coloration and a prolonged duration of persistence after the end of step B). The cosmetic formulations for topical use used in stage A) of the cosmetic process which is the subject of the present invention are generally in the form of aqueous or hydro-alcoholic or hydro-glycolic solutions, in the form of a suspension, of an emulsion, a microemulsion or a nanoemulsion, whether water-in-oil, oil-in-water, water-in-oil-in-water or oil-in-water-in oil, or in the form of a powder.

The topical cosmetic formulations used in the cosmetic process which is the subject of the present invention may be packaged in a bottle, in a device of the pump "bottle" type, in pressurized form in an aerosol device, in a device provided with a perforated wall such as a grid or in a device provided with a ball applicator (called "roll-on").

In general, the compound of formula (I) or the composition (Cl), present in topical cosmetic formulations used in the cosmetic process that is the subject of the present invention, is associated with chemical additives usually used. in the field of formulations for topical use, such as foaming and / or detergent surfactants, thickening and / or gelling surfactants, thickening and / or gelling agents, stabilizing agents, film-forming compounds, solvents and co-solvents, hydrotropic agents, thermal or mineral waters, plasticizers, emulsifiers and co-emulsifiers, opacifying agents, pearlescent agents, superfatting agents, sequestering agents, chelating agents, oils, waxes, antioxidants, fragrances, essential oils, preservatives, conditioners, deodorants, bleaching agents for the fading of hair and skin, the active ingredients intended to provide a treating and / or protective action with respect to the skin or the hair, sunscreens, mineral fillers or pigments, the particles providing an effect visual or for the encapsulation of active, exfoliating particles, texture agents, optical brighteners, repellents for insects. As examples of foaming and / or detergent surfactants which can be combined with the compound of formula (I) or with the composition (Cl) in the topical cosmetic formulations used in the cosmetic process which is the subject of the present invention, it is possible to mention may be made of foaming surfactants and / or anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic detergents. Among the foaming and / or detergent anionic surfactants that can be combined with the compound of formula (I) or with the composition (Cl) in the topical cosmetic formulations used in the cosmetic process that is the subject of the present invention, it is mention may be made of the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, amine or alkylalcohol salts of alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl sulphates, alkylamido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, monoglycerides sulphates, alpha olefinsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylphosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alkylcarboxylates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, alkylsarcosinates, acylisethionates, N-acyltaurates, acyllactylates, N-acyl derivatives of amino acids, N-acyl derivatives of peptides, N-acyl derivatives of proteins, N-acylated fatty acids. Among the foaming and / or detergent amphoteric surfactants which can be combined with the compound of formula (I) or with the composition (Cl) in the topical cosmetic formulations used in the cosmetic process which is the subject of the present invention, it is possible to mention may be made of alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, sultaines, alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines, imidazoline derivatives, phosphobetaines, amphopolyacetates and amphopropionates. Among the foaming and / or detergent cationic surfactants that can be combined with the compound of formula (I) or with the composition (Cl) in the topical cosmetic formulations used in the cosmetic process that is the subject of the present invention, it is mention may be made especially of quaternary ammonium derivatives. Among the foaming and / or detergent nonionic surfactants that can be combined with the compound of formula (I) or with the composition (Cl) in the topical cosmetic formulations used in the cosmetic process that is the subject of the present invention, mention may be made more particularly of alkylpolyglycosides comprising a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic radical containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, such as octylpolyglucoside, decylpolyglucoside, undecylenylpolyglucoside, dodecylpolyglucoside, tetradecylpolyglucoside, hexadecyl polyglucoside, 1-12 dodecanediyl polyglucoside; ethoxylated hydrogenated castor oil derivatives such as the product marketed under the INCI name "Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil"; polysorbates such as Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 40, Polysorbate 60, Polysorbate 70, Polysorbate 80, Polysorbate 85; coconut amides; N-alkylamines. As examples of thickening and / or gelling surfactants that can be combined with the compound of formula (I) or with the composition (Cl) in the topical cosmetic formulations used in the cosmetic process which is the subject of the present invention, mention may be made of optionally alkoxylated alkyl polyglycoside fatty esters, such as the ethoxylated methylpolyglucoside esters such as PEG 120 methyl glucose trioleate and PEG 120 methyl glucose dioleate respectively marketed under the names GLUCAMATE ™ LT and GLUMATE ™ DOE 120; alkoxylated fatty esters such as PEG 150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate sold under the name CROTHIX ™ DS53, PEG 55 propylene glycol oleate sold under the name ANTIL ™ 141; fatty chain polyalkylene glycol carbamates such as PPG-14 laureth isophoryl dicarbamate sold under the name ELFACOSTM T211, PPG-14 palmeth-60 hexyl dicarbamate sold under the name ELFACOSTM GT2125. As examples of thickening and / or gelling agents that can be combined with the compound of formula (I) or with the composition (Cl) in the topical cosmetic formulations used in the cosmetic process that is the subject of the present invention, mention may be made of linear or branched or cross-linked polyelectrolytic polymers, such as the homopolymer of partially or totally salified acrylic acid, the homopolymer of partially or totally salified methacrylic acid, the homopolymer of the acid 2-methyl-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid (AMPS) partially or totally salified, copolymers of acrylic acid and AMPS, copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and AMPS, copolymers of AMPS and (2-hydroxyethyl) acrylate, copolymers of AMPS and (2-hydroxyethyl) methacrylate, copolymers AMPS and hydroxyethylacrylamide, copolymers of AMPS and N, N-dimethyl acrylamide, copolymers of AMPS and tris (hydroxymethyl) acrylamido methane (THAM), copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid and acrylate of (2) hydroxyethyl), copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid and (2-hydroxyethyl) methacrylate, copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid and hydroxyethylacrylamide, copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid and THAM, copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid and N, N-dimethyl acrylamide, terpolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid, AMPS and (2-hydroxyethyl) acrylate, terpolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid, AMPS and (2-hydroxyethyl) methacrylate, terpolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid, AMPS and THAM, terpolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid, AMPS and N, N-dimethylacrylamide, terpolymers of e acrylic or methacrylic acid, AMPS and acrylamide, copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid and alkyl acrylates whose carbon chain comprises between four and thirty carbon atoms and more particularly between ten and thirty carbon atoms, the copolymers of AMPS and alkyl acrylates whose carbon chain comprises between four and thirty carbon atoms and more particularly between ten and thirty carbon atoms, the linear terpolymers , connected or crosslinked with at least one monomer having a strong, free, partially salified or totally salified acidic function, with at least one neutral monomer, and at least one monomer of formula (VIII): C1-12 = C (R6) -C (= O) - [C1-C12-C12-O] n -R7 (VIII) in which R6 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical, R7 represents a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from eight to thirty carbon atoms and n represents a higher number or equal to one and less than or equal to fifty.

Polyelectrolytes polymers, linear or branched or crosslinked that can be combined with the compound of formula (I) or composition (Cl) in cosmetic formulations for topical use implemented in the cosmetic process object of the present invention may be in the form of a solution, an aqueous suspension, a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, a powder. Polyelectrolytes polymers, linear or branched or crosslinked that can be combined with the compound of formula (I) or composition (Cl) in cosmetic formulations for topical use implemented in the cosmetic process object of the present invention can be selected from the products sold under the trade names SI MU LG EL TM EG, SIMULGELTmEPG, SEPIGELTM 305, SIMULGELTm 600, SIMULGELTm NS, SIMULGELTm INS 100, SIMULGELTm FL, SIMULGELTm A, SIMULGELTm SMS 88, SEPI NOVTmEMT 10, SEPIPLUSTm400, SEPIPLUSTm265 , SEPIPLUSTmS, SEPIMAXTMZEN, ARISTOFLEXTMAVC, ARISTOFLEXTMAVS, NOVEMERTMEC-1, NOVEMERTMEC 2, ARISTOFLEXTMHMB, COSMEDIATMSP, FLOCARETMET 25, FLOCARETMET 75, FLOCARETMET 26, FLOCARETMET 30, FLOCARETMET 58, FLOCARETMPSD 30, VISCOLAMTMAT 64, VISCOLAMTMAT 100. Examples of thickeners and / or gelling agents that can be combined with the compound of formula (I) or with the composition (Cl) in cosmetic formulations for use topical used in the cosmetic process object of the present invention, mention may be made of polysaccharides consisting solely of monosaccharides, such as glucans or homopolymers of glucose, glucomannoglucans, xyloglycans, galactomannans whose degree of substitution (DS) of D-galactose units on the main D-mannose chain are between 0 and 1, and more particularly between 1 and 0.25, such as galactomannans derived from cassia gum (DS = 1/5), gum carob (DS = 1/4), tara gum (DS = 1/3), guar gum (DS = 1/2), fenugreek gum (DS = 1). As examples of thickening and / or gelling agents that can be combined with the compound of formula (I) or with the composition (Cl) in the topical cosmetic formulations used in the cosmetic process that is the subject of the present invention, mention may be made of polysaccharides consisting of monosaccharides, such as sulphated galactans and more particularly carrageenans and agar, uronans and more particularly alginines, alginates and pectins, heteropolymers of monosaccharides and uronic acids. and more particularly xanthan gum, gellan gum, exudates of arabic gum and karaya gum, glucosaminoglycans. As examples of thickening and / or gelling agents that can be combined with the compound of formula (I) or with the composition (Cl) in the topical cosmetic formulations used in the cosmetic process that is the subject of the present invention, mention may be made of cellulose, cellulose derivatives such as methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, silicates, starch, hydrophilic derivatives of starch, and polyurethanes.

As examples of stabilizing agents that can be combined with the compound of formula (I) or with the composition (Cl) in the topical cosmetic formulations used in the cosmetic process that is the subject of the present invention, mention may be made of the microcrystalline waxes, and more particularly ozokerite, mineral salts such as sodium chloride or magnesium chloride, silicone polymers such as polysiloxane polyalkyl polyether copolymers. As examples of solvents that can be combined with the compound of formula (I) or with the composition (Cl) in the topical cosmetic formulations used in the cosmetic process that is the subject of the present invention, mention may be made of water organic solvents such as glycerol, diglycerol, glycerol oligomers, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-propanediol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, xylitol, erythritol, sorbitol, water-soluble alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol or butanol, water mixtures and said organic solvents. As examples of thermal or mineral waters that can be associated with the compound of formula (I) or with the composition (Cl) in the topical cosmetic formulations used in the cosmetic process that is the subject of the present invention, it is possible to cite thermal or mineral waters with a mineralization of at least 300 mg / I, in particular Avene water, Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, water La Roche Posay, the water of the Bourboule, the water of Enghien-les-bains, the water of Saint-Gervais-les bains, the water of Néris-les-bains, the water of Allevard -the-baths, the water of Digne, the water of the Maizieres, the water of Neyrac-les-bains, the water of Lons le Saunier, the water of Rochefort, the water of Saint Christau, the water of the Fumades and the water of Tercis-les-bains. As examples of hydrotropic agents which can be combined with the compound of formula (I) or with the composition (Cl) in the topical cosmetic formulations used in the cosmetic process which is the subject of the present invention, mention may be made of the xylene sulphonates, cumenesulfonates, hexyl polyglucoside, (2-ethylhexyl) polyglucoside, n-heptyl polyglucoside. As examples of emulsifying surfactants which can be combined with the compound of formula (I) or with the composition (Cl) in the topical cosmetic formulations used in the cosmetic process which is the subject of the present invention, mention may be made of nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants. As examples of emulsifying nonionic surfactants that can be combined with the compound of formula (I) or with the composition (Cl) in the topical cosmetic formulations used in the cosmetic process which is the subject of the present invention, it is possible to mention esters of fatty acids and sorbitol, such as the products marketed under the names MONTANET ™ 40, MONTANET ™ 60, MONTANET ™ 70, MONTANET ™ 80 and MONTANET ™ 85; compositions comprising glycerol stearate and ethoxylated stearic acid between 5 moles and 150 moles of ethylene oxide, such as the composition comprising stearic acid ethoxylated with 135 moles of ethylene oxide and glycerol stearate. sold under the name SIMULSOL ™ 165; mannitan esters; ethoxylated mannitan esters; sucrose esters; methyl glucoside esters; alkyl polyglycosides comprising a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic radical containing from 14 to 36 carbon atoms, such as tetradecyl polyglucoside, hexadecyl polyglucoside, octadecyl polyglucoside, hexadecyl polyxyloside or octadecyl polyxyloside; eicosyl polyglucoside, dodecosyl polyglucoside, 2-octyldodecyl polyxyloside, 12-hydroxystearyl polyglucoside; linear or branched fatty alcohol compositions, saturated or unsaturated, and comprising from 14 to 36 carbon atoms, and alkylpolyglycosides as described above, for example the compositions sold under the brand name MONTANOVTm68, MONTANOVTm82, MONTANOVTm14, MONTANOVTm202 , MONTANOVTmS, MONTANOVTmVVO 18, FLUIDANOVTm2OX and EASYNOVTM. As examples of anionic surfactants that can be combined with the compound of formula (I) or with the composition (Cl) in the topical cosmetic formulations used in the cosmetic process that is the subject of the present invention, mention may be made of glyceryl stearate citrate, cetearyl sulphate, soaps such as sodium stearate or triethanolammonium stearate, N-acyl derivatives of salified amino acids such as stearoyl glutamate. Examples of emulsifying cationic surfactants that can be combined with the compound of formula (I) or with the composition (Cl) in the topical cosmetic formulations used in the cosmetic process that is the subject of the present invention include aminoxides, quaternium-82 and the surfactants described in the international application published under the number VVO 96/00719 and mainly those whose fatty chain comprises at least 16 carbon atoms. Examples of opacifying agents and / or pearlescent agents that can be combined with the compound of formula (I) or with the composition (Cl) in topical cosmetic formulations used in the cosmetic process that is the subject of the present invention, mention may be made of sodium palmitate, sodium stearate, sodium hydroxystearate, magnesium palmitate, magnesium stearate, magnesium hydroxystearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, ethylene glycol distearate, polyethylene glycol monostearate, polyethylene glycol distearate, fatty alcohols having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

As examples of texture agents that can be combined with the compound of formula (I) or with the composition (Cl) in the topical cosmetic formulations used in the cosmetic process that is the subject of the present invention, mention may be made of N-acylated derivatives of amino acids, such as lauroyl lysine marketed under the name AMINOHOPETmLL, octenyl starch succinate sold under the name DRYFLO TM, myristyl polyglucoside sold under the name MONTANOV ™ 14, cellulose fibers, cotton fibers, chitosan fibers, talc, sericite, mica. As examples of deodorant agents that can be combined with the compound of formula (I) or with the composition (Cl) in the topical cosmetic formulations used in the cosmetic process that is the subject of the present invention, mention may be made of the alkali silicates, zinc salts such as zinc sulphate, zinc gluconate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate; quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts; glycerol derivatives such as glycerol caprate, glycerol caprylate, polyglycerol caprate; 1,2 decanediol; 1,3 propanediol; salicylic acid; sodium bicarbonate; cyclodextrins; metallic zeolites; TRICLOSANTm; aluminum bromohydrate, aluminum chlorohydrates, aluminum chloride, aluminum sulphate, aluminum and zirconium hydrochlorides, aluminum and zirconium trihydrochloride, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate , aluminum and zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum and zirconium octochlorhydrate, aluminum sulphate, sodium and aluminum lactate, aluminum and glycol hydrochloride complexes, as well as propylene glycol aluminum dihydrochloride complex, aluminum and propylene glycol sesquichlorohydrate complex, polyethylene glycol aluminum aluminum and polyethylene glycol, the complex of aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and polyethylene glycol.

As examples of oils which can be combined with the compound of formula (I) or with the composition (Cl) in the topical cosmetic formulations used in the cosmetic process which is the subject of the present invention, mention may be made of oils minerals such as paraffin oil, liquid petrolatum, isoparaffins or mineral white oils; oils of animal origin, such as squalene or squalane, vegetable oils, such as phytosqualane, sweet almond oil, coconut oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, corn germ oil, soybean oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, rye oil, Safflower oil, bancoulier oil, passionflower oil, hazelnut oil, palm oil, shea butter, apricot kernel oil, calophyllum oil, sysymbrium oil, avocado oil, calendula oil, oils derived from flowers or vegetables ethoxylated vegetable oils; synthetic oils such as fatty acid esters such as butyl myristate, propyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, cetyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, octyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexadecyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, dodecyl oleate, hexyl laurate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, lanolic acid derived esters, such as isopropyl lanolate, isocetyl lanolate, monoglycerides, diglycerides and triglycerides of fatty acids such as glycerol triheptanoate, alkylbenzoates, hydrogenated oils, poly (alpha-olefin), polyolefins such as polyisobutane ) synthetic isoalkanes such as isohexadecane, isododecane, perfluorinated oils; silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, amine-modified silicones, fatty acid-modified silicones, alcohols-modified silicones, alcohol-modified silicones and fatty acids, modified silicones, polyether groups, modified epoxy silicones, silicones modified with fluorinated groups, cyclic silicones and silicones modified with alkyl groups. By "oils" is meant herein the compounds and / or the mixtures of water-insoluble compounds having a liquid appearance at a temperature of 25 ° C.

As examples of waxes that can be combined with the compound of formula (I) or with the composition (Cl) in the topical cosmetic formulations used in the cosmetic process that is the subject of the present invention, mention may be made of bee, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricoury wax, japanese wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes, waxes microcrystalline, lanolin wax; ozokerite; polyethylene wax; silicone waxes; vegetable waxes; fatty alcohols and solid fatty acids at room temperature; glycerides solid at room temperature. By "waxes" is meant in the present application the compounds and / or mixtures of compounds insoluble in water, having a solid appearance at a temperature greater than or equal to 45 ° C.

As examples of active principles that can be associated with the compound of formula (I) or with the composition (Cl) in the topical cosmetic formulations used in the cosmetic process that is the subject of the present invention, mention may be made of vitamins and their derivatives, especially their esters, such as retinol (vitamin A) and its esters (retinyl palmitate for example), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its esters, ascorbic acid sugar derivatives (as ascorbyl glucoside), tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (such as tocopherol acetate), vitamins B3 or B10 (niacinamide and its derivatives); compounds showing a lightening or depigmenting action of the skin, such as w-undecelynoyl phenylalanine sold under the name SEPIVVHITETmMSH, SEPICALMTmVG, the mono ester and / or the glycerol diester of w-undecelynoyl phenylalanine, the w-undecelynoyl dipeptides, l arbutin, kojic acid, hydroquinone; the compounds showing a soothing action including SEPICALM TM S, allantoin and bisabolol; anti-inflammatory agents; compounds showing a moisturizing action such as urea, hydroxyureas, glycerol, polyglycerols, glycerolglucoside, diglycerolglucoside, polyglycerylglucosides, xylitylplucoside; plant extracts rich in polyphenols such as grape extracts, pine extracts, wine extracts, olive extracts; compounds showing a slimming or lipolytic action such as caffeine or its derivatives, ADIPOSLIM ™, ADIPOLES ™, fucoxanthin; N-acylated proteins; N-acylated peptides such as MATRIXIL ™; N-acyl amino acids; partial hydrolysates of N-acylated proteins; amino acids; peptides; total hydrolysts of protein; soy extracts, for example Raffermine TM; wheat extracts for example TENSINETm or GLIADINETm; plant extracts, such as tannin-rich plant extracts, plant extracts rich in isoflavones or plant extracts rich in terpenes; freshwater or marine algae extracts; marine plant extracts; marine extracts in general such as corals; essential waxes; bacterial extracts; ceramides; phospholipids; compounds exhibiting antimicrobial action or purifying action, such as LIPACIDETM C8G, LIPACIDETM UG, SEPICONTROL ™ A5; OCTOPIROXTm or SENSIVATM SC50; compounds showing an energizing or stimulating property such as PHYSIOGENYL ™, panthenol and its derivatives such as SEPICAP ™ MP; anti-aging actives such as SEPILIFTT ™ DPHP, LIPACIDETM PVB, SEPIVINOL ™, SEPIVITAL ™, MANOLIVAT ™, PHYTO-AGET ™, TIMECODET ™; SURVICODETM; anti-aging photo active ingredients; the active ingredients protecting the integrity of the dermal-epidermal junction; actives enhancing the synthesis of extracellular matrix components such as collagen, elastins, glycosaminoglycans; assets acting favorably on chemical cellular communication such as cytokines or physical ones such as integrins; active ingredients that create a sensation of "heating" on the skin, such as activators of cutaneous microcirculation (such as nicotinic acid derivatives) or products that create a sensation of "freshness" on the skin (such as menthol and derivatives) ; the active agents improving cutaneous microcirculation, for example the venotonic ones; draining assets; decongestant active ingredients such as extracts of ginko biloba, ivy, horse chestnut, bamboo, ruscus, holly, centalla asiatica, fucus, rosemary, willow; agents for tanning or browning the skin, for example dihydroxyacetone (DHA), erythrulose, mesotartaric aldehyde, glutaraldehyde, glyceraldehyde, alloxane, ninhydrin, plant extracts, for example red wood extracts of the genus Pterocarpus and of the genus Baphia such as Pteropcarpus santalinus, Pterocarpus osun, Pterocarpus soyauxii, Pterocarpus erinaceus, Pterocarpus indicus or Baphia nitida such as those described in the European patent application EP 0 971 683; agents known for their action of facilitating and / or accelerating the tanning and / or browning of human skin, and / or for their action of coloring human skin, for example caratenoids (and more particularly beta carotene) and gamma carotene), the product marketed under the tradename "Carrot oil" (INCI name: Daucus Carota, helianthus annuus sunflower oil) by Provital, which contains carotenoids, vitamin E and vitamin K; tyrosine and / or its derivatives, known for their effect on the tanning acceleration of human skin in association with exposure to ultraviolet radiation, for example the product marketed under the trademark "SunTan AcceleratorTM" by the company Provital which contains tyrosine and riboflavins (vitamin B), the tyrosine and tyrosinase complex marketed under the trade name "Zymo Tan Complex" by Zymo Line, the product marketed under the brand name MelanoBronzeTM (INCI name : Acetyl Tyrosine, Monk's pepper extract (Vitex Agnus castus)) by the company Mibelle which contains acetyl tyrosine, product sold under the brand name Unipertan VEG-24/242/2002 (INCI name: butylene glycol and Acetyl Tyrosine and the hydrolyzed vegetable protein and Adenosine triphosphate) by the company UNIPEX, the product marketed under the brand name "Try-ExcellTm" (INCI name: Oleoyl Tyrosine and Luffa Cylindrica (Se ed) Oil and Oleic Acid) by Sederma Company which contains extracts of pumpkin seed (or Loofah oil), the product sold under the brand name "Actibronze TM" (INCI name: hydrolyzed wheat protein and acetyl tyrosine and copper gluconate) by Alban Muller, the product marketed under the trade name Tyrostan TM (INCI name: potassium caproyl tyrosine) by Synerga, the product sold under the trade name Tyrosinol (INCI name: Sorbitan Isostearate, glyceryl oleate, caproyl Tyrosine) by the company Synerga, the product sold under the brand name lnstaBronzeTM (INCI name: Dihydroxyacetone and acetyl tyrosine and copper gluconate) marketed by Alban Muller, the product sold under the trade name Tyrosilane (INCI name: methylsilanol and acetyl tyrosine) by Exymol; the peptides known for their effect of activating melanogenesis, for example the product marketed under the trade name Bronzing SF Peptide powder (INCI name: Dextran and Octapeptide-5) by the company FiniteCec Activos, the product marketed under the brand name Melitane (INCI name: Glycerin and Aqua and Dextran and Acetyl hexapeptide-1) comprising acetyl hexapeptide-1 known for its alpha-MSH agonist action, the product marketed under the brand name Melatimes SolutionsTM (INCI name: Butylene glycol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-40) by LIPOTEC, sugars and sugar derivatives, for example the product marketed under the brand name TanositolTm (INCI name: inositol) by Provital, the product sold under the brand name ThalitanTm (or Phycosaccharide TM AG) by CODIF International (INCI name: Aqua and hydrolyzed algin (Laminaria Digitata) and magnesium sulfate and manganese sulfate) containing an oligosacchar marine wrinkle (guluronic acid and mannuronic acid chelates with magnesium and manganese ions), the product sold under the brand name MelactivaTM (INCI name: Maltodextrin, Mucuna Pruriens Seed extract) by Alban Muller, the compounds rich in flavonoids for example the product sold under the brand name "Biotanning" (INCI name: Hydrolyzed citrus Aurantium dulcis fruit extract) by the company Silab and known to be rich in flavonoids of lemon (hesperidin type). Examples of antioxidants that can be combined with the compound of formula (I) or with the composition (Cl) in the topical cosmetic formulations used in the cosmetic process that is the subject of the present invention include EDTA and its salts, citric acid, tartaric acid, oxalic acid, BHA (butylhydroxyanisole), BHT (butylhydroxytoluene), tocopherol derivatives such as tocopherol acetate, mixtures of antioxidant compounds such as DISSOLVINETM GL 47S marketed by Akzo Nobel under the name INCI: Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate. As examples of sunscreens that can be combined with the compound of formula (I) or with the composition (Cl) in the topical cosmetic formulations used in the cosmetic process that is the subject of the present invention, mention may be made of all those contained in Cosmetic Directive 76/768 / EEC as amended Annex VII. Among the solar organic filters that can be combined with the compound of formula (1) or with the composition (Cl) in the topical cosmetic formulations used in the cosmetic process that is the subject of the present invention, mention may be made of the family derivatives of benzoic acid such as para-aminobenzoic acids (PABA), in particular monoglycerol esters of PABA, ethyl esters of N, N-propoxy PABA, ethyl esters of N, N-diethoxy PABA, ethyl esters N, N-dimethyl PABA, N, N-dimethyl PABA methyl esters, N, N-dimethyl PABA butyl esters; the family of anthranilic acid derivatives such as homomenthyl-N-acetyl anthranilate; the family of salicylic acid derivatives such as amyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate, ethylhexyl salicylate, phenyl salicylate, benzyl salicylate, pisopropanolphenyl salicylate; the family of cinnamic acid derivatives such as ethylhexyl cinnamate, ethyl-4-isopropyl cinnamate, methyl-2,5-diisopropyl cinnamate, p-methoxypropyl cinnamate and p-methoxyisopropyl cinnamate; , p-methoxyisoamyl cinnamate, p-methoxyoctyl cinnamate (p-methoxy-2-ethylhexyl cinnamate), p-methoxy-2-ethoxyethyl cinnamate, pmethoxycyclohexyl cinnamate, ethyl-a-cyano cinnamate 6-phenyl, (2-ethylhexyl) -α-cyano-6-phenyl cinnamate, glyceryl diparamethoxy mono-2-ethylhexanoyl cinnamate; the family of benzophenone derivatives such as 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonate, 4-phenylbenzophenone, 2-ethylhexyl-4'-phenylbenzophenone-2-carboxylate, 2-hydroxy-2-hydroxybenzophenone, 4-n-octyloxybenzophenone, 4-hydroxy-3-carboxybenzophenone; 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -d, 1-camphor, 3- (benzylidene) -d, 1-camphor, benzalkonium methosulfate camphor; urocanic acid, ethyl urocanate; the family of sulfonic acid derivatives such as sulfonic acid 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5 and its salts; the family of triazine derivatives such as hydroxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyloxyhydroxyphenyl-4-methoxyphenyltriazine, 2,4,6-trianillino- (p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1-oxy) -1,3, 5-triazine, 4,4 - ((6 - (((1,1-dimethylethyl) amino) carbonyl) phenyl) amino) -1,3,5-triazine-2,4-diyl diimino) bis- (2) benzoic acid ester, 2-phenyl-5-methylbenzoxazole, 2,2'-hydroxy-5-methylphenylbenzotriazole, 2- (2'-hydroxy5'-t-octylphenyl) benzotriazole, 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-methylphenyl) benzotriazole; dibenzazine; dianisoylmethane, 4-methoxy-4 "-t-butylbenzoylmethane, 5- (3,3-dimethyl-2-norbornylidene) -3-pentan-2-one, the family of diphenylacrylate derivatives such as 2-ethylhexyl- 2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl-2-propenoate, ethyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl-2-propenoate, the family of polysiloxanes such as benzylidene malonate siloxane, among the inorganic solar filters, also called "inorganic screens", which can be associated with the compound of formula (1) or with the composition (Cl) in the topical cosmetic formulations used in the cosmetic process which is the subject of the present invention, mention may be made of titanium oxides, zinc oxides, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, iron oxides yellow, red or black, chromium oxides These inorganic screens can be micronized or not, whether or not they have undergone surface treatments and may optionally be presented in the form of aqueous or oily pre-dispersions. also relates to a compound of formula (1) or a composition (C1) as defined above, for their use in a therapeutic treatment method intended to stimulate the production of melanins to prevent and / or treat diseases of human skin .

The following examples illustrate the invention without limiting it. EXAMPLE 1 Preparation of a Composition (C18) According to the Invention 400 grams of valine is introduced, ie one molar equivalent in a mixture of hydro-alcoholic consisting of 1440 grams of water and 160 grams of isopropanol, at a concentration of temperature of 20 ° C. The pH of the medium is adjusted to 10 by addition of a 30% sodium hydroxide solution. 448.8 grams of octanoyl chloride, ie 0.8 molar equivalents, are then gradually added to the mixture maintained between 20 ° C. and 40 ° C., and at a pH of between 10 and 10.5. The reaction medium is then stirred for two hours and then heated to 70 ° C, then added 687.7 grams of a 75% phosphoric acid acid solution to gradually reach a pH value of about 2.0.

The aqueous phase of the medium is decanted and withdrawn and the organic phase remaining in the reactor is washed several times with brine at room temperature with stirring. After washing and then drying by distillation of the residual water under vacuum, the organic phase comprising 636.9 grams of desired N-octanoyl valine is obtained. 82 grams of isosorbide, ie one molar equivalent of isosorbide, are introduced into the reactor comprising 133.2 grams of the dried reaction medium obtained in the preceding step. The temperature is raised to 120 ° C. 0.47 grams of 98% sulfuric acid and 0.47 grams of 50% hypophosphorous acid are then added and the resulting mixture is heated to 125 ° C under partial vacuum with a nitrogen sparge. The reaction mixture is then maintained for 24 hours with stirring at this temperature, then neutralized by addition of a 30% sodium hydroxide solution so as to obtain a pH of the composition (C1A), diluted to 5% in water, between 3.0 and 6.0. The analytical characteristics of the composition (C1A) obtained are as follows: Acid value (according to NFT 60-204) = 43.7 pH 5% of the composition A in water (according to the NFT 73-206 method) = 4 Index of Hydroxyl (according to US Pharmacopeia XXI NF XVI 01/011985) = 181.4 Ester number (calculated by the difference between the saponification number measured according to the NFT method 60-110 and the acid number measured according to the method NFT 60-204) = 99.3 Saponification number (according to NFT 60-206) = 143 mg KOH / g Exem the 2nd aera tion of a com- position CIR according to the invention The procedure of the method described in Example 1 is carried out by replacing the molar equivalent of valine with a molar equivalent of leucine, to obtain the composition (C1B), the analytical characteristics of which are as follows: acid number (according to NFT 60-204) = 63, 3 pH 5% of composition B in water (according to method NFT 73-206) = 4.6 Hydroxyl number (according to US Pharmacopeia XXI NF XVI 01/0 11985) = 243.7 Ester number (calculated as the difference between the saponification number measured according to the NFT 60-110 method and the acid number measured according to the NFT 60-204 method) = 93.8 Index of saponification (according to NFT 60-206) = 157.1 mg KOH / g, for example, on the appearance of a Cl composition according to the invention. The procedure of the process described in Example 1 is carried out by replacing the molar equivalent of valine with a molar equivalent of leucine, and the 0.8 molar equivalent of octanoyl chloride with 0.8 molar equivalents of chloride. of undecylenoyl to obtain the Composition (C-C), the analytical characteristics of which are as follows: Acid number (according to NFT 60-204) = 48.8 pH 5% of the composition D in water (according to the NFT method 73- 206) = 4.6 Hydroxyl number (according to US Pharmacopeia XXI NF XVI 01/011985) = 204.3 Ester number (calculated by the difference between the saponification number measured according to the NFT 60-110 method and the acid number measured according to the method NFT 60-204) = 87.6 Saponification number (according to NFT 60-206) = 136.4 mg KOH / g Exem the 4 aration of a Cl composition according to the invention The procedure of the process described in Example 1 is carried out by replacing the molar equivalent of valine with a mole equivalent. isoleucine, to obtain the composition (CID) whose analytical characteristics are as follows: Acidic index (according to NFT 60-204) = 71.5 pH 5% of the composition E in water (according to the NFT method 73 -206) = 4.1 Hydroxyl number (according to US Pharmacopeia XXI NF XVI 01/011985) = 219.8 Ester number (calculated by the difference between the saponification number measured according to the NFT method 60-110 and the acid number measured according to the NFT 60-204 method) = 86.2 Saponification number (according to NFT 60-206) = 157.7 mg KOH / g Iodine number (according to NFT 60-203) = 157 The procedure of the process described in Example 1 is carried out by replacing the molar equivalent of valine with a molar equivalent. of proline, and the 0.8 equivalent of octanoyl chloride per 0.8 molar equivalent of (wundecylenoyl) chloride, to obtain the Composition (CIE) whose analytical characteristics are the following: acid number (according to NFT 60-204) = 78.4 pH 5% of the composition F in water (according to the method NFT 73-206) = 4.2 Hydroxyl number (according to US Pharmacopeia XXI NF XVI 01/011985) = 191.7 Ester number (calculated as the difference between the saponification number measured according to the method NFT 60-110 and the acid number measured according to the method NFT 60-204) = 67 Saponification number (according to NFT 60-206) = 146.2 mg KOH / g Example 6 (Comparative): Preparation of a composition (G) comprising (N-hexadecanoyl leucinate) isosorbide and [bis ( N-hexadecanoyl) isosorbide leucinatel. The procedure of the process described in Example 1 is carried out by replacing the molar equivalent of valine with a molar equivalent of leucine, and the 0.8 equivalent of octanoyl chloride with 0.8 molar equivalents of chloride of leucine. hexadecanoyl, to obtain Composition G, the analytical characteristics of which are as follows: Acid number (according to NFT 60-204) = 10.0 pH 5% of composition H in water (according to method NFT 73-206) = 6.1 Hydroxyl number (according to US Pharmacopeia XXI NF XVI 01/011985) = 125.0 Ester number (calculated as the difference between the saponification number measured according to the method NFT 60-110 and the index d acid measured according to the method NFT 60-204) = 107.3 Saponification number (according to NFT 60-206) = 117.3 mg KOH / g Example 7 (comparative): preparation of a composition H comprising the mono-ester N- (3-undecylenoyl) isoleucine and isosorbide and N- (β-undecylenoyl) isoleucine di-ester and isosorbide. The procedure of the process described in Example 1 is carried out by replacing the molar equivalent of valine with a molar equivalent of isoleucine and the 0.8 molar equivalent of octanoyl chloride with 0.8 molar equivalents of chloride. of undecylenoyl, to obtain the composition H, the analytical characteristics of which are as follows: acid number (according to NFT 60-204) = 72.4 pH 5% of the composition H in water (according to the method NFT 73-206) = 4.1 Hydroxyl number (according to US Pharmacopeia XXI NF XVI 01/011985) = 187.5 Ester number (calculated by the difference between the saponification number measured according to the NFT 60-110 method and the index of acid measured according to the method NFT 60-204) = 69.0 Saponification number (according to NFT 60-206) = 141.4 mg KOH / g Example 8 (comparative): preparation of a composition J comprising the mono- ester of octanoyl proline and isosorbide and the di-ester of octanoyl proline and isosorbide. The procedure of the method described in Example 1 is carried out by replacing the molar equivalent of valine a molar equivalent of proline, to obtain Composition J, the analytical characteristics of which are as follows: Acidic index (according to NFT 60-204 ) = 85.8 pH 5% of the composition J in water (according to the method NFT 73-206) = 3.3 Hydroxyl number (according to US Pharmacopeia XXI NF XVI 01/011985) = 214.7% d ester (calculated as the difference between the saponification number measured by the NFT method 60-110 and the acid number measured according to the NFT 60-204 method) = 65.3 Saponification number (according to NFT 60-206 ) = 151.1 mg KOH / g Demonstration of the human skin staining activity of the compounds and compositions according to the invention by a study of the production of melanin on a line of murine melanocytes B16 / F1 La highlighting of the staining activity was achieved by the implementation of a study model the production of melanin on a line of murine B16 / F1 melanocytes. This test is commonly used in the cosmetics and pharmaceutical sector. Protocol: B16F1 murine melanocytes were amplified in T75 culture flask, then seeded at 5000 cells / well in 96-well culture plates in a specific culture medium, at 37 ° C. in a humid atmosphere containing 5% CO 2. After 24 hours of plaque amplification, the cells were treated with the compositions according to the invention or culture medium alone (control) and then incubated for 72 hours at 37 ° C. under 5% CO 2. Each condition has been realized in triplicate. Evaluation of the effects: After the incubation, the supernatants were recovered and the melanin secreted by the cells in the culture medium (extracellular) was quantified by spectrophotometric measurement at 450 nm of these culture supernatants, against a range of melanin stallion. The results were expressed in μg of melanin / ml of culture medium. The cell mats were lysed in PBS using a sonication rod and 2 evaluations were performed on these: Evaluation of the amount of melanin by spectrophotometric measurement at 450 nm of the lysates against a standard range of melanin; Evaluation of the amount of protein by assay according to the method of Bradford. The results of melanin production by (intracellular) cells were expressed relative to the amount of protein present in the carpets. Thus the final result is given as pg melanin per mg protein.

Statistical analysis using the Student's test was performed to compare each condition with the control condition. Tests were conducted in a first experimental series with the compositions (C1B) and (C10) according to the invention, compared to the culture control and to the composition G. The results obtained are recorded in the following Table 1: Table 1 Products Tested Extracellular Melanin Intracellular Melanin (μg / mL) (μg / mg Protein) Culture Control 119 ± 4,101 ± 5 Composition (C1B) (10 μg / mL) 144 ± 2 99 ± 6 Composition (Cl B) (50 μg / ml) 137 ± 2,114 ± 2 Composition (C1 c) (10 μg / ml) 140 ± 5 104 ± 3 Composition (C1 c) (50 μg / ml) 112 ± 7,151 ± 1 Composition G (50 μg / ml) / m1) 55 ± 23 95 ± 2 Compared with the control, the use of the composition (C1B) induces an increase in the production of extracellular melanin at the two doses tested and an increase in the production of intracellular melanin at the dose of 50 μg / ml, whereas the use of the composition (C10) induces an increase in the production of extracel melanin at a dose of 10 μg / ml and increased production of intracellular melanin at the doses tested. On the contrary The use of the composition G induces a decrease in the production of extracellular melanin and the production of intracellular melanin (for a dose of 50 μg / ml). Tests were conducted in a second experimental series with compositions (C1A) and (CIE) according to the invention, compared to the culture control and compositions J and K. The results obtained are given in Table 2 below: Table 2 Products Tested Extracellular Melanin Intracellular Melanin (μg / mL) (μg / mg Protein) Culture Control 141 ± +/- 3 85 ± +/- 2 Composition (C1A) (50 μg / ml) 139 ± +/- 8 100 ± 6 Composition (CIE) (10 μg / ml) 148 ± +/- 7 98 ± 7 Composition (CIE) (50 μg / ml) 130 ± 2 108 ± 4 Composition J (50 μg / ml) 140 ± 2 ( lb) 84 ± 3 Compared to the control, the use of the Composition (C1A) induces the increase in the production of intracellular melanin at a dose of 50 μg / ml but does not induce a change in this same dose, in the production of extracellular melanin. In addition, the use of the composition (CIE) induces the increase in the production of intracellular melanin at the two doses tested. On the other hand, the use of the composition J equivalent dose (50pg / m1) induces no significant change in the production of both types of melanin. Tests were conducted in a third experimental series with the composition (CID) according to the invention, compared to the culture control and comparative composition H. The results obtained are shown in Table 3 below: Table 3 Products tested Extracellular Melanin Intracellular Melanin (μg / mL) (μg / mg protein) Culture Control 150 +/- 10 (2) 93 +/- 8 (2) Composition (CID) (50 μg / mL) 139 +/- 1 125 ± 1 Composition H (10 μg / ml) 139 +/- 2 98 +/- 1 Composition H (50 μg / ml) Cytoxicity Cytoxicity Compared with the control, the use of the composition (CID) according to the invention at the dose of 50pg / ml, induces an increase in the production of intracellular melanin. At equivalent dose, composition H is cytotoxic.

Demonstration of the human skin coloring activity of the compounds and compositions according to the invention by a clinical study The demonstration of the human skin coloring activity of the compositions according to the invention, the speed of said staining and its persistence over time, was carried out by the implementation of a clinical study for a panel of volunteers.

Protocol: The study was conducted on a panel of 20 female volunteers, aged 18 to 40 years (mean age: 29 years, minimum age: 20 years and maximum age: 37 years), Caucasian skin, phototype III . The formulations for topical use comprising the compositions according to the invention and the reference products to be tested were applied daily to the skin of the thighs at a frequency of twice a day. Conduct of the study: The study is carried out in three phases: Phase a): period of application of the evaluated products of a duration of 15 days. Measurements made during the period of phase a) make it possible to evaluate the coloration of the skin without exposure of said skin to UV-A radiation. The end of this phase a) is noted J15.

Phase b): period following the period of phase a), consisting of exposure to ultraviolet radiation of an ultraviolet lamp of the skin treated with the tested products. For each subject, this exposure is performed every 2/3 days for a total of 6 exposures corresponding to 1 MPD (Minimal Pigmenting Dose - 16J / cm2 on average) each, and is followed by an application of the tested products.

Phase b) lasts 12 days, and the end of phase b) is noted as J27. Phase c): period following the period of phase b), consisting of an observation of the evolution of the coloration of the treated skin according to the provisions of the previous phases. Phase c) does not include application of the formulations comprising the tested products, nor exposure to ultraviolet radiation A as described in phase b).

Phase c) lasts 6 days, and the end of the period of phase c) is noted J33. In the context of this clinical study, the Fg formulation according to the invention which is applied to the skin of the members of the panel comprises for 100% of its mass, 99% by weight of water and 1% by weight of the composition (C1B). In the context of this clinical study, the formulation (Fo) comprises, for 100% of its mass, 1% by weight of acetyl tyrosine (AT) which is a reference compound known for its skin-coloring activity and 99% by mass. of water. Evaluation of the effects: The coloration of the surfaces of the skin treated with the formulations (FO) and (FB), as well as an area of the untreated skin and close to the area of the treated skin, is evaluated by measuring the angle Individual Typological (or ATI) which represents the degree of pigmentation of the skin; the lower the ATI, the darker the skin. Its detection was carried out by spectrocolorimetry according to the standards of the International Commission on Illumination (CIE), by measuring the parameters L * and b *, then by calculating the Individual Typological Angle as follows: I TA = [ArcTangent ((L * -50) / b *)] x (180 / rr)). L * being the parameter characterizing the brightness and b * the parameter which determines the blue axis towards yellow. The measurements are made: - the first day of phase a) of the protocol, but before the first application of the formulation (denoted OJ) - the last day of phase a) of the protocol (noted J15) - the last day of the phase b) of the protocol (noted J27) - the last day of phase c) of the protocol (noted J33). For the same treated surface, a decrease of the ITA over time will mean an increase in the coloration of said surface of the treated skin. The results obtained are shown in Table 4 below: Table 4 ATI to ATI to ATI to ATI to ATI to ATI to ATI to ATI to OJ J15 J22 J24 J26 J27 J33 J40 Skin not treated 36.59 37.22 36, 27 36.03 35.14 35.31 33.14 34.20 ± 8 ± 8 * ± 8 ± 8 * ± 9 * ± 8 * ± 8 * ± 7 * Skin treated with (Fo) 36.94 36.91 36.27 36.39 35.67 35.20 32.17 33.15 ± 8 ± 90 ± 9 ± 9 ± 10 ± 9 ± 9 * ± 9 * 0 Skin treated with (FB) 38.4 39.02 36 , 76 36.29 35.48 33.54 33.02 32.85 ± 8 ± 8 * 0 ± 8 ± 8 ± 8 ± 9 * ± 9 * ± 9 * 0 * 0 # * 0 # * 0 # *: Statistically significant difference with respect to OJ (p <0.05) o: Statistically significant difference from untreated area (p <0.05) #: Statistically significant difference from outcome with Fo (p < 0.05) The application of the formulation (FB) significantly increases the color of the skin compared to its starting color (OJ), as well as in relation to the evolution of the skin color during of the study e untreated). In addition, the effect obtained by the formulation (FB) is greater than that obtained by the formulation (Fo) at D22, D24 and D26, ie during step B) of the cosmetic process of the skin as described previously and the invention. Bibliography (1): Petersen et al., "Dihydroxyacetone, the active browning ingredient in sunless tanning lotions, DNA damage digests, cell-cycle block and apoptosis in cultured HaCaT keratinocytes", 2004, Mutat Res, Jun 13; 560 (2) : 173-86. Examples of cosmetic formulations In the following examples the proportions are expressed in percentages by weight. Non-greasy tanning machine for face and body LANOLTM 2681: 3.0% 34 2.5% q.s. 100% 1.0% 0.2% SEPIMAXTmZen: Water: Composition (C1B): Fragrance: SEPICIDETm HB: 0.8% Soda: q.s. pH = 5 Sunless bronzing emulsion LANOLTM 99: 15% MONTANOVTm 68: 5.0% PARSOLTM MCX: 3.0% Water: qsp100% Composition (C1B): 3.0% Monosodium phosphate: 0.2% SEPIMAXTm Zen: 0.5% Fragrance: 0.3% SEPICIDETM HB: 0.8% Soda: qs pH = 5. Pressed clay powder SIMULGELTmEG: 2.00% LANOLTM 99: 12.00% Composition (C1B): 1.00% Talc: 33.00% MICROPEARLTM M310: 3.00% Iron oxide yellow: 0.80% Oxide red iron: 0.30% Black iron oxide: 0.05% Mica: qs 100% self-tanning gel SIMULGELTmEG: 5.0% Ethanol: 30% Composition (Clc) 5% Menthol: 0.1% Caffeine: 2.5% Ivry extract: 2% SEPICIDETm HB: 1% Water: q.s. 100% Sunblock and self-tanning gel MONTANOVTm S: 3.0% Glyceryl triheptanoate: 10.0% LIPACIDETM PVB: 1.05% SIMULGELTmEG: 2.2% Water: q.s. 100% Composition (C1B): 5% Fragrance: 0.1% SEPICIDETM HB: 0.3% SEPICIDETM CI: 0.1% PARSOLTM MCX: 4.0% Self-tanning cream with a-hydroxy acids MONTANOVTm 68: 5.0% LIPACIDETM PVB: 1.05% LANOLTM 99: 10.0% Water: qs 100% Gluconic acid: 1.5% Composition (C1B): 3% Triethanolamine: 0.9% SEPIMAXTmZen: 1.5% Fragrance: 0.4% SEPICIDETM HB: 0.2% SEPICIDETM CI: 0.4% Self-tanning cream a-hydroxy acids for sensitive skin Mixture of N-lauroyl amino acids: 0.1% to 5% Magnesium and potassium aspartate: 0.002% to 0.5% MONTANOVTm 68: 5.0% LANOLTM 99: 2.0% Water: qs 100% Lactic Acid: 1.5% Composition (C1B): 3.5% Triethanolamine: 0.9% SIMULGELTMINS 100: 1.5% Fragrance: 0.4% SEPICIDETM HB: 0.3% SEPICIDETM CI: 0.2 % SIMULSOLTm 165 self-tanning moisturizing emulsion: 5.0% LANOLTM 1688: 8.5% Galam butter: 2% Liquid paraffin: 6.5% LANOLTM 14M: 3% LANOLTM S: 0.6% Water: 66, 2% Composition (C1B): 3% MICROPEARLTM M100: 5% SIMULGELTmNS: AQUAXYL TM Vitamin E acetate: 0.20% Sodium pyrolidinonecarboxylate: 0.20% Fragrance: 0.2% SEPICIDETM HB: 0.5% SEPICIDETM Cl : 0.3% Satin self-tanning moisturizing emulsion A Water Up to 100 ° A Disodium EDTA 0.10% Sodium Benzoate 0.30% Soda (12%) 0.07% B MONTANOVTm L 1.00% SIMULSOLTm 165 2.00% LANOLTM P 2.00% Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 5.00% Neopentyl Glycol 8.00% Dimethicone 1.00% Composition (C1B) 1.00% C SEPIMAXTm ZEN 1.50% SOLAGUM TM AX 0.50% D Phenoxyethanol and Ethylhexylglycerin 1.00% Suncare lotion - SPF15 A Aqua / VVater Up to 100% SOLAGUM TM AX 0.50% TriEthanolAmine ( 99%) 0.40% B SENSAN OVTM VVR 3.00% MONTANOVTm S 1.00% C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 10.00% Ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate and BHT 5.00% Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 2.50% C Cyclopentasiloxane and cyclohexasiloxane 2.50% D AQUAXYL TM 3.00% Phenoxyethanol and Ethylhexylglycerin 1.00% Composition (C1B) 1.00% Perfume / Fragrance 0.10% Lactic Acid (25%) 0.09% Sun-activating cream gel with DHA A Aqua / VVater Qs 100% B SIMULGELTm SMS 88 3.00% C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 10.00% Dimethicone 5.00% C Glycerin 3.00% Monopropylene Glycol 2.00% Phenoxyethanol and Ethylhexylglycerin 1.00% Tocopherol 0.05% D Aqua / VVater 40.00% Dihydroxyacetone 3.00% E Composition (C1B) 1.00% Fragrance / Fragrance 0.10% Citric Acid Qs pH Body Lotion after Solar A Water Up to 100% SEPIMAXTm ZEN 0.50% B AQUAXYL TM 2.00% SEPICALMTm S VVP 1.00% C Butylene Glycol 3.00% SEPICLEARTM G7 1.30% Perfume / Fragrance 0.03% Phenoxyethanol and Ethylhexyl Glycerin 0.80% Composition (C1B) 1.00% The commercial products used in the examples are defined as follows: LANOLTM 2681 is a caprylate mixture, copra caprate, sold by the company SEPPIC; SEPIMAXTmZen (INCI name polyacrylate crosspolymer-6) is a thickening, emulsifying and stabilizing agent. LANOLTM 99 is isononyl isononanoate marketed by the company SEPPIC; MONTANOV-68 (cetearyl glucoside), is a self-emulsifiable composition as described in VVO 92/06778, sold by the company SEPPIC; SEPICIDETM HB (INCI name: Phenoxyethanol / Methylparaben / Ethylparaben / Propylparaben / Butylparaben) is a preservative marketed by the company SEPPIC; PARSOL ™ MCX is octyl para-methoxy cinnamate; marketed by GIVAUDAN; MICROPEARL ™ M310 is an ultra-fine powder with a very soft feel and mattifying action marketed by MATSUMO; SIMULGELTmEG (INCI name: sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate / sodium acrylate, and isohexadecane and polysorbate 80) is a thickening, emulsifying and stabilizing agent marketed by the company SEPPIC. MONTANOV ™ S is a pearlescent agent marketed by the company SEPPIC, based on a mixture of alkyl polyglucosides such as those described in VVO 95/13863; LIPACIDETM PVB, is a hydrolysate of acyl wheat proteins marketed by the company SEPPIC; SEPICIDETM Cl, imidazolidine urea, is a preservative marketed by the company SEPPIC; SIMULGELTMINS 100 (INCI name: sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate / hydroxy ethyl acrylate, and isohexadecane and polysorbate 60) is a thickening, emulsifying and stabilizing agent marketed by the company SEPPIC. SIMULSOL ™ 165 is self-emulsifiable glycerol stearate marketed by the company SEPPIC; - LANOLTM 1688 is an emollient non-fat ester marketed by the company SEPPIC - LANOLTM 14M and LANOLTM S are consistency factors marketed by the company SEPPIC; - SIMULGELTmNS (INCI name: sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate / hydroxy ethyl acrylate, and squalane and polysorbate 60) is a thickening, emulsifying and stabilizing agent marketed by the company SEPPIC. AQUAXYLTM (INCI name: Xylitylglucoside and Anhydroxylitol and Xylitol): moisturizing composition marketed by the company SEPPIC; MONTANOVTM L (INCI name: C14-22 Alkyl Alcohol C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside) is an emulsifying composition marketed by the company SEPPIC, LANOLTM P is an emollient ester of palmitic acid and ethylene glycol SOLAGUMTm AX is a gum mixture acacia and xanthan gum used as emulsifying agent SENSANOVTM VVR (INCI name: C20-22 Alkyl phosphate & C20-22 Alcohols) is an anionic surfactant mixture marketed by the company SEPPIC SIMULGELTm SMS 88 (INCI name: Sodium acrylate / Acryloyldimethyl) taurate / Dimethylacrylamide crosspolymer & Isohexadecane & Polysorbate 60) is a thickening and emulsifying agent marketed by SEPPIC SEPICALMTM S VVP (INCI name: Sodium Cocoyl Amino Acids & Sarcosine & Potassium Aspartate & Magnesium) is a soothing agent marketed by the company SEPPIC SEPICLEARTM G7 (INCI name: heptyl glucoside) is a solubilizing agent marketed by the company SEPPIC

Claims (7)

CLAIMS1 Use of a compound of formula (1): OR "R'0 (I) in which R 'and R", which are identical or different, represent either a hydrogen atom or a monovalent radical of formula (11a): Wherein R1-C (= O) - represents the octanoyl radical and R2 represents the isopropyl radical, or the R1-C group (= 0) represents the octanoyl radical and R2 represents the isobutyl radical, or the R1-C (= O) group represents the (w-undecylenoyl) radical and R2 represents the isobutyl radical, or the R1-C (= O) group; represents the octanoyl radical and R2 represents the (1-methyl) propyl radical; a monovalent radical of formula (11b): ## STR5 ## wherein formula R 1 -C (= O) represents the radical (w-undecylenoyl), it being understood that at least one radicals R 'or R "do not represent a hydrogen atom and when none of the radicals R' and R" represents a hydrogen atom, R 'and R "are identical, or a mixture of compounds of formula (1), said use being for the purpose of browning and / or tanning the human skin and said use being in a cosmetic composition. 2. Use as defined in claim 1, of a composition (CI) comprising for 100% of its mass: from 99% by weight to 20% by weight of at least one compound of formula (Ia) OH R'O ( la), wherein R 'represents either a monovalent radical of formula (IIa): ## STR2 ## wherein formula 0) represents the octanoyl radical and R2 represents the isopropyl radical, or the R1-C (= O) group represents the octanoyl radical and R2 represents the isobutyl radical, or the R1-C (= O) group represents the wundecylenoyl radical and R2 represents the isobutyl radical, or the R1-C (= O) group represents the octanoyl radical and R2 represents the 1-methylpropyl radical; or a monovalent radical of formula (11b): ## STR5 ## wherein formula (11b) in which the group R 1 -C (= O) - represents the radical w-undecylenoyl,; 1% by weight to 80% by weight of at least one compound of formula (Ib): OR RO (Ib), formula (Ib) in which the radical R, represents either a monovalent radical of formula (IIa): ## STR2 ## Wherein R1-C (= O) - represents the octanoyl radical and R2 represents the isopropyl radical, or the R1-C (= O) group - represents the octanoyl radical and R2 represents the isobutyl radical, or the R1-C (= O) group represents the wundecylenoyl radical and R2 represents the isobutyl radical, or the R1-C (= O) group represents the octanoyl radical and R2 represents the 1-methylpropyl radical; or a monovalent radical of formula (11b): R 1 0 (11b), formula (11b) in which the group R 1 -C (= O) - represents the radical w-undecylenoyl. 3. A method for the purpose of browning and / or tanning human skin comprising at least one step A of application to said human skin of a cosmetic formulation for topical use comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient and an effective amount of at least one compound of formula (1): OR "R'0 (I) in which R 'and R", which are identical or different, represent either a hydrogen atom or a monovalent radical of formula (11a): R 2 N / 1 H 0 (11a), formula (11a) wherein either the group R 1 -C (= O) - represents the octanoyl radical and R 2 represents the isopropyl radical, or the R 1 -C (= O) group represents the octanoyl radical and R2 represents the isobutyl radical, or the R1-C (= O) group represents the (wundecylenoyl) radical and R2 represents the isobutyl radical, or the R1-C (= O) group represents the octanoyl radical and R2 represents the (1-methyl) propyl radical; is a monovalent radical of formula (11b): R 1 -O (lib), formula (11b) in which the group R 1 -C (= O) - represents the radical (w-undecylenoyl), or a mixture of compounds of formula (1). 4. A method for the purpose of browning and / or tanning human skin comprising at least one step A of application to said human skin of a cosmetic formulation for topical use comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient and an effective amount of a composition (Cl) comprising for 100% of its mass: from 99% by mass to 20% by weight of at least one compound of formula (Ia) OH R'O (la), formula (la) in which R 'represents is a monovalent radical of formula (11a): ## STR2 ## in which either the group R 1 -C (= O) - represents the octanoyl radical and R 2 represents the isopropyl radical, or the group R1-C (= O) - represents the octanoyl radical and R2 represents the isobutyl radical, or the R1-C (= O) - represents the w-undecylenoyl radical and R2 represents the isobutyl radical, or the group R 1 -C (= O) - represents the octanoyl radical and R 2 represents the 1-methylpropyl radical; or a monovalent radical of formula (11b): ## STR2 ## wherein formula (11b) in which the group R 1 -C (= O) - represents the w-undecylenoyl radical, 1% by weight to 80% by weight of at least one compound of formula (Ib): OR RO (Ib), formula (Ib) in which the radical R, represents either a monovalent radical of formula (11a): Embedded image wherein R 1 -C (= O) - represents the octanoyl radical and R 2 represents the isopropyl radical, or the R 1 -C (= O) group - represents the radical octanoyl and R2 is isobutyl, or R1-C (= O) - is wundecylenoyl and R2 is isobutyl, or R1-C (= O) - is octanoyl and R2 is the 1-methylpropyl radical; is a monovalent radical of formula (11b): ## STR5 ## in which formula (11b) in which the group R 1 -C (= O) represents the w-undecylenoyl radical, 5. A method as defined in any one of claims 3 or 4 characterized in that it further comprises a step B of exposure to sunlight or ultraviolet radiation generated by an artificial light device, said human skin having undergone said step A .. 6. Compound of formula (1): OR "O R'0 (I) in which R 'and R", which are identical or different, represent either a hydrogen atom or a monovalent radical of formula (11a): N / 1 1 H 0 (11a), formula (11a) wherein either the group R1-C (= O) - represents the octanoyl radical and R2 represents the isopropyl radical, or the R1-C group (= 0) represents the octanoyl radical and R2 represents the isobutyl radical, or the R1-C (= O) group represents the (wundecylenoyl) radical and R2 represents the isobutyl radical, or the R1-C (= O) group represents the octanoyl radical and R2 represents the (1-methyl) propyl radical; is a monovalent radical of formula (11b): RI (11b), formula (11b) in which the group R1-C (= O) - represents the (w-undecylenoyl) radical, or a mixture of compounds of formula ( 1), it being understood that at least one of the radicals R 'or R "does not represent a hydrogen atom and that when none of the radicals R' and R" represents a hydrogen atom, R 'and R " are identical for use in a method of therapeutic treatment for stimulating the production of melanins to prevent and / or treat diseases of human skin. Composition (Cl) comprising for 100% of its mass: from 99% by weight to 20% by weight of at least one compound of formula (Ia) OH R'O (la), formula (la) in which R 'represents either a monovalent radical of formula (11a): ## STR2 ## in which either the group R 1 -C (= O) - represents the octanoyl radical and R 2 represents the isopropyl radical, or the group R1-C (= O) represents the octanoyl radical and R2 represents the isobutyl radical, or the R1-C (= O) group represents the w-undecylenoyl radical and R2 represents the isobutyl radical, or the group R1-C (= O) - represents the octanoyl radical and R2 represents the 1-methylpropyl radical; either a monovalent radical of formula (11b): ## STR2 ## wherein formula (11b) in which the group R 1 -C (= O) - represents the w-undecylenoyl radical; 1% by weight to 80% by weight of at least one compound of formula (Ib): OR RO (Ib), formula (Ib) in which the radical R, represents either a monovalent radical of formula (IIa): (IIa), formula (11a) wherein either the group R1-C (= O) - represents the octanoyl radical and R2 represents the isopropyl radical, or the group R1-C (= O) - represents the octanoyl radical and R2 represents the isobutyl radical, or the R1-C (= O) group represents the wundecylenoyl radical and R2 represents the isobutyl radical, or the R1-C (= O) group represents the octanoyl radical; and R2 represents the 1-methylpropyl radical; or a monovalent radical of formula (11b): ## STR5 ## wherein formula R1-C (= O) represents the w-undecylenoyl radical for its use in a method of therapeutic treatment intended to stimulate the production of melanins to prevent and / or treat diseases of human skin.