EP3633090A1 - Maschine und verfahren zur herstellung von bedruckten garnen - Google Patents

Maschine und verfahren zur herstellung von bedruckten garnen Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3633090A1
EP3633090A1 EP19196172.1A EP19196172A EP3633090A1 EP 3633090 A1 EP3633090 A1 EP 3633090A1 EP 19196172 A EP19196172 A EP 19196172A EP 3633090 A1 EP3633090 A1 EP 3633090A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
ribbon
machine
feeding
tension
acquisition
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP19196172.1A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Marco Giuseppe RUGGERI
Luca Ruggeri
Giovanni Ruggeri
Pierfelice COGLIATI
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Gitalia Jacquard Srl
Original Assignee
Gitalia Jacquard Srl
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Gitalia Jacquard Srl filed Critical Gitalia Jacquard Srl
Publication of EP3633090A1 publication Critical patent/EP3633090A1/de
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B11/00—Treatment of selected parts of textile materials, e.g. partial dyeing
    • D06B11/002—Treatment of selected parts of textile materials, e.g. partial dyeing of moving yarns
    • D06B11/0023—Treatment of selected parts of textile materials, e.g. partial dyeing of moving yarns by spraying or pouring
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02H—WARPING, BEAMING OR LEASING
    • D02H5/00—Beaming machines
    • D02H5/02—Beaming machines combined with apparatus for sizing or other treatment of warps
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/02—Material containing basic nitrogen
    • D06P3/04—Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P5/00—Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
    • D06P5/30—Ink jet printing
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P7/00—Dyeing or printing processes combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06P7/005—Dyeing combined with texturising or drawing treatments
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B41—PRINTING; LINING MACHINES; TYPEWRITERS; STAMPS
    • B41J—TYPEWRITERS; SELECTIVE PRINTING MECHANISMS, i.e. MECHANISMS PRINTING OTHERWISE THAN FROM A FORME; CORRECTION OF TYPOGRAPHICAL ERRORS
    • B41J3/00—Typewriters or selective printing or marking mechanisms characterised by the purpose for which they are constructed
    • B41J3/407—Typewriters or selective printing or marking mechanisms characterised by the purpose for which they are constructed for marking on special material
    • B41J3/4078—Printing on textile
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B11/00—Treatment of selected parts of textile materials, e.g. partial dyeing
    • D06B11/0056—Treatment of selected parts of textile materials, e.g. partial dyeing of fabrics
    • D06B11/0059—Treatment of selected parts of textile materials, e.g. partial dyeing of fabrics by spraying

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a machine and a method for producing yarns for chine fabrics of the type specified in the preamble of the first claim.
  • the present invention relates to a machine for producing yarns adapted to allow the simplification of the phases prior to the process of weaving chine fabric in such a way as to allow the industrialization of chine, for example also for natural type fibres characterized, that is, by a greater rigidity.
  • chine fabrics are particular fabrics, for example silk, with a cloth weave of a dappled colour. They are characterized by patterns with blurred outlines obtained with the colouring of the warp, before weaving, with the reserve dyeing technique rather than by printing the pre-made fabric.
  • the chine fabric can be created starting, substantially, from two different techniques.
  • the so-called "à la branche” technique consists in producing, by dyeing, small bunches of warp yarns suitably bound in such a way that the binding prevents the colour bath from reaching the covered yarns, thus colouring only the unbound part.
  • the warp is then mounted on the loom and woven with a single-colour weft thread. Due to the small movements that the threads undergo in the winding and binding of the warp, the result is patterns with a flamed, streaked, or vertically shaded effect, with imprecise outlines.
  • these techniques are mainly manufacturing and not industrial techniques.
  • the biggest disadvantage of the prior art is that it does not allow the production of high quality chine fabrics in a short time.
  • This application describes a production process for silk chine fabric that comprises a plurality of steps: perform the temporary weaving by placing silk beams on a weaving machine to perform the temporary primary weaving with temporary wefts; pre-treat the silk fabric by soaking in a pre-treatment liquid at 95-98 °C; wash the fabric with water; dehydrate the washed fabric with drying for 5-7 minutes at 120 °C; print the silk fabric with inkjet printers; dry the fabric with steam by removing the temporary wefts; perform the permanent weaving; and perform a post-treatment after the permanent weaving.
  • the method described is not very advantageous from an economic point of view because it involves the performance of a plurality of phases with different tools and different, though well measured, times.
  • the technical task underlying the present invention is to design a machine and a method for producing yarns for chine fabrics capable of substantially avoiding at least some of the above-mentioned drawbacks.
  • Another important purpose of the invention is to produce high quality chine fabrics using an industrial and non-manufacturing production method, with reduced costs and time both from the point of view of manpower and equipment used.
  • Fig. 1 shows a functional diagram of a machine for producing yarns for chine fabrics according to the invention.
  • the measures, values, shapes and geometric references (such as perpendicularity and parallelism), when used with words like “about” or other similar terms such as “approximately” or “substantially”, are to be understood as except for measurement errors or inaccuracies due to production and/or manufacturing errors and, above all, except for a slight divergence from the value, measure, shape or geometric reference which it is associated with.
  • these terms if associated with a value, preferably indicate a divergence of not more than 10% of said value.
  • the number 1 globally denotes the machine for producing yarns for chine fabrics according to the invention.
  • the machine 1 is preferably a portion of a chine fabric-producing plant. Therefore, it is substantially adapted to carrying out part of the method for producing the chine fabric and, in particular, the part prior to the final weaving.
  • the plant essentially comprises at least one machine 1 and one weaving apparatus of which this latter is of a known type.
  • the weaving apparatus can therefore be a Jacquard type loom or other types as long as they are adapted to allow the production of fabric weaves including, therefore, a warp and a weft.
  • the weaving apparatus is adapted to taking warp yarns from a beam and conveying the weft by means of sliders that are perpendicular to the direction of the beam's unwinding.
  • the machine 1 preferably comprises feeding means 2 , acquisition means 3 , printing means 4 , and drying means 5 .
  • the feeding means 2 are preferably adapted to feed the machine 1 with yarns. Therefore, they are not energy feeding means, but are adapted to supply the machine 1 with the material being processed.
  • the feeding means 2 preferably define a feeding plane 2a .
  • the feeding plane 2a substantially defines the plane along which the material exits the feeding means 2.
  • the feeding means 2 are adapted to ejecting a ribbon 10 made of yarns.
  • the yarns are preferably, but not necessarily, made of natural fibre.
  • ribbon 10 is not intended to indicate a fabric or a long, flat object made of solid material, but simply means that the bundle of yarns, which are generally very fine, constitute a ribbon of yarns.
  • the ribbon 10 preferably includes yarns arranged adjacent to each other, in an orderly manner, along the feeding plane 2a.
  • orderly means that none of the yarns overlap the others and that the yarns continue to run, outside of the feeding means 2, adjacent to each other.
  • the ribbon 10 defines a warp intended for the production of chine fabric. This last aspect is very important because the machine does not have a set of pre-treatments including, for example, the production of a dummy weave with temporary wefts.
  • the feeding means 2 may, in practice, comprise, for example, a beam.
  • the beam comprising the yarns can therefore be temporarily bound to the feeding means 2 in such a way as to be easily replaceable at the end of the process.
  • the beam can be operationally connected to other apparatus adapted to supplying yarns.
  • the acquisition means 3 are preferably very similar to the feeding means 2.
  • the acquisition means 3 are substantially identical to the feeding means 2, but have a reverse function.
  • the acquisition means 3 define an acquisition plane 3a.
  • the acquisition plane 3a is preferably the plane along which the ribbon 10 is aligned.
  • the acquisition means 3a are preferably adapted for acquiring the ribbon 10 along the acquisition plane 3a.
  • the acquisition plane 3a and the feeding plane 2a are preferably tangential to the respective beams comprised in the feeding means 2 and the acquisition means 3.
  • planes 2a, 3a can be aligned or staggered to each other.
  • the ribbon 10 connects the feeding means 2 and the acquisition means 3.
  • the acquisition means 3, as well as the feeding means 2, may also comprise an electric motor adapted to allow the rotation of the beam in such a way as to drag the ribbon 10 coming from the feeding means 2.
  • the ribbon 10 or, to be more precise, the yarns of the ribbon 10 are unwound from the feeding means 2 and again rolled into the acquisition means 3.
  • the beam of the acquisition means 3 can also be removable, or it can be directly operationally connected to another apparatus.
  • the acquisition means 3 may not even include a beam and may simply be adapted to convey, under tension, the ribbon 10 to the weaving apparatus.
  • the beam including the ribbon 10 of the acquisition means 3, could be disassembled and arranged on a weaving apparatus for weaving the warp, consisting of the ribbon 10, with the weft.
  • the printing means 4 are preferably arranged between the feeding means 2 and the acquisition means 3. They are adapted to allow the printing of images on the ribbon 10.
  • the printing means 4 can comprise an ink printer including a plurality of heads sliding transversely with respect to the ribbon 10 and, in practice, to the yarns.
  • the ribbon 10 moved by the feeding means 2 and acquisition means 3 is conveyed to the printing means 4 for printing.
  • the printing images can be defined by means of apparatuses accessible to a user. Therefore the machine 1 also, preferably, comprises processing means 6 .
  • the processing means 6 are preferably adapted to allow the external user to record one or more images. In addition, they are operationally connected to the printing means 4 so that the printing means 4 print images recorded within the processing means 6 onto the ribbon 10.
  • the processing means 6 may therefore include an electronic compiler, such as a computer, which has drawing software or the like.
  • the printing means 4 can include a digital ink jet printer adapted to receive digital images from the processing means 6.
  • processing means 6 can also be operationally connected to the feeding means 2, to the acquisition means 3, and to the drying means 5 in such a way as to allow, by means of management software, certain machine parameters, such as, for example, the speeds at which the ribbon 10 passes through the printing means 4, to be controlled.
  • the drying means 5 are preferably arranged between the printing means 4 and the acquisition means 3. In addition, they are adapted for transferring heat to the ribbon 10 in such a way as to fix the ink with which the yarns of the ribbon 10 are impregnated.
  • the drying means 5 are then adapted to receive the incoming ribbon 10 from the printing means 4 before it can be conveyed to the acquisition means 3.
  • the drying means 5 include an oven adapted to heat the ribbon 10 to temperatures between 100°C and 200°C. Ovens of this type are already known in the current state of the art.
  • the machine 1 also, preferably, comprises tensioning means 7 .
  • the tensioning means 7 are preferably adapted for placing the ribbon 10 under tension. They therefore preferably comprise at least one first tensioner 70 and a second tensioner 71 .
  • tensioner is not intended to indicate a single element, but can also be understood as a set of elements.
  • the tensioner 70 can include a roller, or a plurality of rollers arranged in series and in such a way that the ribbon 10, passing through the tensioning means 7, assumes a desired, predetermined tension.
  • the tensioning means 7 are adapted to allow the maintenance of a constant tension along the entire path of the ribbon 10 in the machine 1.
  • the first tensioner 70 is preferably arranged near the feeding means 2.
  • the second tensioner 71 is, on the other hand, preferably arranged near the acquisition means 3.
  • the term "proximity" means that the tensioners 70, 71 are arranged immediately adjacent to the feeding means 2 and the acquisition means 3 respectively. Therefore, the first tensioner 70 is, preferably, arranged immediately downstream of the feeding means 2 and the second tensioner 71 is arranged immediately upstream of the acquisition means 3. Of course, if the ribbon 10 moves in the opposite direction, the first tensioner 70 should be considered as arranged immediately upstream of the feeding means 2 and the second tensioner 71 arranged immediately downstream of the acquisition means 3.
  • the machine 1 can provide for the arrangement of tensioning means 7 at the printing means 4 too, and at the drying means 5.
  • the processing means 6 are, preferably, operationally connected to the tensioning means 7 in such a way as to control them.
  • the processing means 6 themselves could include a plurality of sensors along the route described by the ribbon 10 in the machine 1 in such a way as to detect the actual tension and bring it back, by means of the tensioning means 7, to within predetermined threshold values.
  • the first tensioner 70 is adapted to vary the tension of the ribbon 10 increasing it when the ribbon 10 is released from the feeding means 2 and the second tensioner 71 is adapted to vary the tension of the ribbon 10 decreasing it when the ribbon 10 is released from the acquisition means 3.
  • this variation in tension is provided in order to compensate for the reduction of the ribbon 10 on the beam of the feeding means 2 and the increase of ribbon 10 on the beam of the acquisition means 3 that is to constitute the warp.
  • the tensioners 70, 71 are configured to vary the tension of the belt 10 to compensate for the tension variations respectively on the feeding means 2 and the acquisition means 3.
  • the tensioning means 7 are adapted to vary the tension of the ribbon 10 according to final tension-to-initial tension ratios between 7% and 22%.
  • the machine 1 enables the production of a ribbon 10, constituting a warp beam for the whole chine fabric production plant.
  • the plant includes the machine 1 and a weaving apparatus adapted to receive ribbon 10 from the acquisition means 3, directly or indirectly, and adapted to weave the ribbon 10 with at least a second yarn.
  • the ribbon 10 defines, therefore, the warp and the second yarn defines the weft.
  • the invention comprises a new method for producing chine fabrics.
  • the method is carried out using the plant described above.
  • It comprises an arrangement phase, a handling phase, and a weaving phase.
  • a plurality of yarns is preferably arranged on the feeding plane 2a in a mutually adjacent manner and in such a way as to define the ribbon 10 adapted to form a warp.
  • This phase is performed, for example, by arranging a yarn beam on the feeding means 2.
  • the ribbon 10 is preferably moved within the printing means 4 and, then, within the drying means 5 in such a way as to allow the printing of images on the ribbon 10.
  • the ribbon 10 is woven with at least one second yarn constituting a weft in such a way as to produce the chine fabric.
  • This last phase is preferably carried out in a known weaving apparatus following the reception, by the weaving machine, of the ribbon 10 acquired by the acquisition means 3.
  • the method allows chine fabric to be produced.
  • the ribbon-ordered yarns are printed, for example coloured yarns, with motifs that follow patterns that can be defined by means of a processing apparatus.
  • the weft tends to offset the images printed on the warp, blurring them and defining images on a fabric that is the chine.
  • the plant and the method do not involve the use of temporary wefts, or the moulding of the weave, and allow the method to be speeded up considerably.
  • the method can, in fact, be carried out at speeds between, preferably, 20 m/h and 40 m/h.
  • this parameter is greatly influenced by the resolution of the pattern and the titration of the resulting warp. Therefore, these speeds could even be increased.
  • the machine 1 and the method for producing yarns for chine fabrics according to the invention results in important advantages.
  • the machine 1, the plant, and the method allow the industrialization of the chine fabric creation process in a simple and economical way.
  • high quality chine fabrics can be produced, in which the blurring is given during the weaving phase, exploiting industrial phases and avoiding the use of manpower.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Materials Engineering (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
EP19196172.1A 2018-10-04 2019-09-09 Maschine und verfahren zur herstellung von bedruckten garnen Withdrawn EP3633090A1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
IT201800009182 2018-10-04

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3633090A1 true EP3633090A1 (de) 2020-04-08

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ID=64755618

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EP19196172.1A Withdrawn EP3633090A1 (de) 2018-10-04 2019-09-09 Maschine und verfahren zur herstellung von bedruckten garnen

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Citations (14)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3257086A (en) * 1963-08-02 1966-06-21 John W Drenning Tension equalizing control system
US3447215A (en) * 1967-06-26 1969-06-03 Advance Finishing Inc Production of random dyed pile textiles
DE1710160A1 (de) * 1967-06-23 1972-02-17 Friedrich Hans Joachim Verfahren und Vorrichtung zur Vorrichtung zur direkten Herstellung von Webbaeumen aus monoaxial gereckten Extruder-Folien
JPS50157636A (de) * 1974-05-22 1975-12-19
US4640529A (en) * 1985-09-16 1987-02-03 Katz Marcella M Flexible non-distortable handcraft sheet material and method of applying printed designs thereto
ES2024166A6 (es) * 1990-03-29 1992-02-16 Fauno S L Perfeccionamientos en las maquinas para la estampacion de tejidos.
US6328078B1 (en) * 1998-03-13 2001-12-11 Tietex International, Ltd. System and process for forming a fabric having digitally printed warp yarns
US20020095753A1 (en) * 2001-01-25 2002-07-25 Pascoe William M. Space dyed yarn
JP2003342882A (ja) * 2002-05-27 2003-12-03 Inaoka Kogyo Kk 織物の染色加工方法
WO2006123372A1 (en) * 2005-05-19 2006-11-23 Ghertex S.R.L Method and plant for printing a chain of warp yarns
JP2007169818A (ja) * 2005-12-21 2007-07-05 Tsudakoma Corp 経糸糊付装置のストレッチ制御装置
CN104831566A (zh) 2015-05-11 2015-08-12 海安县南莫制丝有限公司 一种印经丝绸织物生产工艺
CN108342802A (zh) * 2018-02-06 2018-07-31 江南大学 一种经纱排列匀整机构以及经纱喷墨印花和上浆联合系统
WO2018228694A1 (en) * 2017-06-15 2018-12-20 Staubli Bayreuth Gmbh Weaving machine, method for simultaneously weaving two pile fabrics on such a machine and pile fabric obtainable with such a method

Patent Citations (14)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3257086A (en) * 1963-08-02 1966-06-21 John W Drenning Tension equalizing control system
DE1710160A1 (de) * 1967-06-23 1972-02-17 Friedrich Hans Joachim Verfahren und Vorrichtung zur Vorrichtung zur direkten Herstellung von Webbaeumen aus monoaxial gereckten Extruder-Folien
US3447215A (en) * 1967-06-26 1969-06-03 Advance Finishing Inc Production of random dyed pile textiles
JPS50157636A (de) * 1974-05-22 1975-12-19
US4640529A (en) * 1985-09-16 1987-02-03 Katz Marcella M Flexible non-distortable handcraft sheet material and method of applying printed designs thereto
ES2024166A6 (es) * 1990-03-29 1992-02-16 Fauno S L Perfeccionamientos en las maquinas para la estampacion de tejidos.
US6328078B1 (en) * 1998-03-13 2001-12-11 Tietex International, Ltd. System and process for forming a fabric having digitally printed warp yarns
US20020095753A1 (en) * 2001-01-25 2002-07-25 Pascoe William M. Space dyed yarn
JP2003342882A (ja) * 2002-05-27 2003-12-03 Inaoka Kogyo Kk 織物の染色加工方法
WO2006123372A1 (en) * 2005-05-19 2006-11-23 Ghertex S.R.L Method and plant for printing a chain of warp yarns
JP2007169818A (ja) * 2005-12-21 2007-07-05 Tsudakoma Corp 経糸糊付装置のストレッチ制御装置
CN104831566A (zh) 2015-05-11 2015-08-12 海安县南莫制丝有限公司 一种印经丝绸织物生产工艺
WO2018228694A1 (en) * 2017-06-15 2018-12-20 Staubli Bayreuth Gmbh Weaving machine, method for simultaneously weaving two pile fabrics on such a machine and pile fabric obtainable with such a method
CN108342802A (zh) * 2018-02-06 2018-07-31 江南大学 一种经纱排列匀整机构以及经纱喷墨印花和上浆联合系统

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