EP3623877A1 - Verfahren zur herstellung einer uhrenkomponente - Google Patents

Verfahren zur herstellung einer uhrenkomponente Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3623877A1
EP3623877A1 EP19196224.0A EP19196224A EP3623877A1 EP 3623877 A1 EP3623877 A1 EP 3623877A1 EP 19196224 A EP19196224 A EP 19196224A EP 3623877 A1 EP3623877 A1 EP 3623877A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
recess
timepiece
manufacturing
component
timepiece component
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP19196224.0A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Carine Bienvenu
Patrice Nagel
Quoc-Hien NGUYEN
Alexandra Roulet
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Rolex SA
Original Assignee
Rolex SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Rolex SA filed Critical Rolex SA
Publication of EP3623877A1 publication Critical patent/EP3623877A1/de
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B24—GRINDING; POLISHING
    • B24B—MACHINES, DEVICES, OR PROCESSES FOR GRINDING OR POLISHING; DRESSING OR CONDITIONING OF ABRADING SURFACES; FEEDING OF GRINDING, POLISHING, OR LAPPING AGENTS
    • B24B1/00—Processes of grinding or polishing; Use of auxiliary equipment in connection with such processes
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B19/00—Indicating the time by visual means
    • G04B19/06—Dials
    • G04B19/12—Selection of materials for dials or graduations markings
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B44—DECORATIVE ARTS
    • B44C—PRODUCING DECORATIVE EFFECTS; MOSAICS; TARSIA WORK; PAPERHANGING
    • B44C1/00—Processes, not specifically provided for elsewhere, for producing decorative surface effects
    • B44C1/005—Processes, not specifically provided for elsewhere, for producing decorative surface effects by altering locally the surface material
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C27/00—Making jewellery or other personal adornments
    • A44C27/001—Materials for manufacturing jewellery
    • A44C27/002—Metallic materials
    • A44C27/003—Metallic alloys
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C27/00—Making jewellery or other personal adornments
    • A44C27/001—Materials for manufacturing jewellery
    • A44C27/005—Coating layers for jewellery
    • A44C27/006—Metallic coatings
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B24—GRINDING; POLISHING
    • B24C—ABRASIVE OR RELATED BLASTING WITH PARTICULATE MATERIAL
    • B24C1/00—Methods for use of abrasive blasting for producing particular effects; Use of auxiliary equipment in connection with such methods
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B19/00—Indicating the time by visual means
    • G04B19/06—Dials
    • G04B19/10—Ornamental shape of the graduations or the surface of the dial; Attachment of the graduations to the dial
    • G04B19/103—Ornamental shape of the graduations or the surface of the dial; Attachment of the graduations to the dial attached or inlaid numbers
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B44—DECORATIVE ARTS
    • B44C—PRODUCING DECORATIVE EFFECTS; MOSAICS; TARSIA WORK; PAPERHANGING
    • B44C1/00—Processes, not specifically provided for elsewhere, for producing decorative surface effects
    • B44C1/22—Removing surface-material, e.g. by engraving, by etching
    • B44C1/221—Removing surface-material, e.g. by engraving, by etching using streams of abrasive particles
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B37/00—Cases
    • G04B37/0008—Cases for pocket watches and wrist watches
    • G04B37/0058—Cases for pocket watches and wrist watches for shaped watches

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a method of manufacturing a timepiece component.
  • the invention also relates to a watch component as such.
  • the invention also relates to a timepiece comprising such a timepiece component.
  • the visible surface of such a component can have several different aspects, depending on the different finishing step (s) chosen.
  • the surface condition of this visible surface thus makes it possible to achieve a particular aesthetic aspect, which is sought after.
  • Such a visible surface may have reliefs with respect to a main surface, formed in withdrawal with respect to this main surface, for example in the form of recesses, or conversely forming a protruding relief with respect to this main surface.
  • the general objective of the invention is to offer an improved and simplified solution for forming a timepiece component of attractive aesthetic appearance, comprising recessed reliefs, and which does not include all or part of the drawbacks of the state of the art.
  • an object of the invention is to offer a solution for forming a timepiece component comprising a first surface having a surface finish different from that of a second surface, set back from said first surface.
  • the invention is based on a method of manufacturing a timepiece component for a timepiece, characterized in that it comprises a first step of manufacturing a timepiece component comprising a first surface, in which is arranged at least one recess, that is to say a surface set back from the first surface, and characterized in that it comprises a second stage of termination of the horological component, inducing a modification of the surface state, in particular the roughness, in particular measured by the parameters Ra and / or Str, and / or the gloss, of the first surface but not of the at least one recess or of only a portion of this at least one recess.
  • the at least one recess comprises a recess surface, or second surface, set back from the first surface, not covered at the time of implementation of the second termination step, this recessed recess surface retaining an unchanged surface finish at the end of the second termination step from its surface finish at the start of the second termination step.
  • the invention also relies on a timepiece component comprising a first surface, in which is arranged at least one recess, characterized in that all or part of the first surface has a first surface state obtained by tribofinishing and / or chemical mechanical polishing and / or by tumbling and / or by trovalisation and / or by sandblasting and / or by micro-blasting and / or by wet spraying, different from the second surface state, in particular the roughness, in particular measured by the parameters Ra and / or Str, and / or the gloss, of at least a portion of the at least one recess.
  • the invention is also based on a timepiece, in particular a watch, characterized in that it comprises a timepiece component as described above.
  • the invention relates to a timepiece component 10 of any chemical composition and in particular of metal and / or metal alloy and / or technical ceramic.
  • a component can thus for example be obtained from stainless steel, precious metals, titanium, alumina, strontium aluminate doped or not, zirconia stabilized or not, hybrid material organic-inorganic or generally any metal alloy or any technical ceramic or any composite usable in the field of watchmaking.
  • technical ceramic is meant dense materials based on aluminum oxide, and / or zirconium oxide, and / or stabilized zirconium oxide, and / or nitrides, and / or carbides. , and / or strontium aluminate, in particular doped.
  • the timepiece component 10 can be in one piece or comprise the combination of different parts assembled together. Thus, it can be of a single chemical nature or a combination of chemical natures. It can therefore include the same material or several different materials. It can be presented in a single color or be of several colors.
  • the invention further relates to any type of watch component.
  • This horological component 10 can be a bezel, a bezel disc, but more generally any covering element, a case, a case back, a middle part, a dial, a decorative plate, or a bracelet link.
  • This component can also be a component of the movement, such as a date disc for example.
  • the invention relates more particularly to a timepiece component 10 having at least one recessed relief defined by a recessed surface with respect to the main surface 5 of the timepiece component, recessed relief generally called a recess.
  • the main surface 5 is considered here as the visible surface of the largest surface area of the timepiece component.
  • a second recessed surface 20 or recess 20 is more precisely formed in a first surface 1 of the timepiece component, which constitutes all or part of the main surface 5.
  • This recessed surface 20 is hollowed out in the first surface 1; an edge 4 forms an interface between the first surface 1 and the recessed surface 20.
  • the latter can be flat or curved. It can for example be frustoconical. It can also be continuous or discontinuous, that is to say that it can be formed from several flat or curved surfaces connected by edges.
  • the recess 20 can thus take any form. It may in particular comprise at least a third surface 2 forming a bottom, which can be connected to the first surface 1 by a connecting surface 3.
  • the third surface 2 and / or the connecting surface 3 can be continuous or discontinuous.
  • the second recessed surface 20 or recess 20 may comprise a third surface 2 forming a bottom substantially parallel to the first surface 1, connected to the first surface by one or more side walls acting as a bonding surface 3 substantially perpendicular to the bottom, forming a niche shape with a flat bottom, as illustrated by recess 20 of the figure 1a .
  • a background can for example appear a symbol or an alphanumeric character intended to display a time indication or derived from the time or any marking.
  • the second recessed surface 20 or recess 20 may be in the form of a curved surface comprising a rounded section forming a U, as illustrated by recess 20 of the figure 1b .
  • the third surface 2 integrates the bonding surface 3.
  • the second recessed surface 20 or recess 20 may be in the form of a discontinuous surface comprising a V-shaped section, as illustrated by recess 20 of the figure 1c .
  • the second recessed surface 20 or recess 20 may not have a bottom.
  • the recess 20 is through, that is to say that it crosses the watch component 10 on either side.
  • the invention relates to the method of manufacturing such a timepiece component.
  • This method comprises a first step consisting in preparing a timepiece component 10 comprising a main surface 5 and a first surface 1 in which at least one recess 20 is arranged.
  • This element resulting from the first stage has substantially the final shapes and dimensions of the watch component; it will already be called a watch component, even if it is not completely finished.
  • this first step is implemented in a known manner, by any process of the state of the art.
  • the first surface 1 is considered in the invention to be a surface in which at least one recess is arranged and which is affected by the rest of the process, that is to say that its surface condition will be modified.
  • This surface condition will be characterized in particular, without limitation, by the roughness, particularly by means of the standardized roughness parameters Ra and / or Str, and / or by the gloss, or even by the color, as will be detailed by following on the basis of several examples.
  • the first step may consist in manufacturing a ceramic bezel disc or a metal decorative plate, comprising recesses.
  • the concept of the invention consists in implementing a second finishing / termination step, which makes it possible to finalize the surface states of the watch component, in particular which makes it possible to easily obtain different surface states between the first and the second surface. of the watch component.
  • the second step of the invention more specifically implements a step of terminating the timepiece component 10 inducing a modification of the surface state of the first surface, for example aiming to decrease the specular reflection, without affecting or affecting as little as possible the at least one recess (that is to say the at least one recessed surface), or noticing any possible part of the main surface that has been spared.
  • the recessed surface 20 may possibly be affected by the second termination step at the edge 4 forming an interface between the first surface 1 and said recessed surface 20.
  • the second termination step may for example affect a portion of said recess 20 or second recessed surface 20 which is between the plane P1 and a plane P2 parallel to the plane P1 and distant by a distance d from the plane P1 in the direction of the interior of said recess, as shown in the Figures 1a to 1c .
  • the surface state of the recess can possibly be modified over a distance d strictly less than the depth of the recess. The depth is measured in a direction perpendicular to the planes P1 and P2.
  • the distance d does not exceed 80 ⁇ m, or even 50 ⁇ m, even 20 ⁇ m. Of course, this distance can be zero.
  • termination step we mean a modification of the surface condition of the first surface 1 by interposed media.
  • the particularity of this termination process is to allow such a result to be obtained without masking protecting the recesses, with so-called “free” media and abrasives; the contact between the abrasives and the surface to be finished is made by impacts and not by friction as in the case of polishing.
  • This step includes, for example, the mechanical stressing of an abrasive mixture by impacts, for example by setting in vibratory, oscillatory or rotary movement, for example in a tank (tribofinishing). It also includes, for example, without limitation, barreling, and / or trovalisation, and / or sandblasting and / or micro-blasting and / or wet spraying of said first surface 1.
  • the termination step uses an abrasive which can be supported by media.
  • the dimension and / or the geometry of the media is defined so as to prevent any contact of the media with at least one deepest portion of the recess, namely a portion arranged below a plane P2 as defined above, in particular to prevent any contact with a third surface 2 forming a bottom.
  • the media can have a polyhedral shape, in particular pyramidal, or spherical. They can be glass, ceramic, porcelain, soapstone, alumina, or zircon (ZrSiO 4 ).
  • the method of manufacturing a timepiece component 10 for a timepiece may include an intermediate step between the two aforementioned steps, consisting in modifying the surface condition of all or part of the main surface 5 and possibly of the second surface by shrinkage 20 aimed at maximizing specular reflection.
  • This modification can form surfaces of homogeneous and isotropic topography.
  • this step can correspond to a polishing of the surfaces in order to make them shiny.
  • the second termination step modifies the surface condition of the first surface 1 so as to give it a homogeneous and isotropic topography with reduced specular reflection.
  • this termination step is a step of matifying the first surface 1 previously polished.
  • Such an approach thus makes it possible to obtain a timepiece component 10 comprising a first mat surface 1, and a second recessed surface 20 whose state of surface is at least partially unchanged.
  • Such an approach makes it possible in particular to obtain a timepiece component 10 which may include a first mat surface 1, and a third surface 2 forming a bottom, the surface state of which is unchanged.
  • the second termination step modifies the surface state of all or part of the main surface 5 to give the first surface 1 a homogeneous and isotropic topography, while reducing or even minimizing its specular reflection.
  • the first step of manufacturing a timepiece component 10 can be followed by an intermediate step, such as a step of depositing a coating in the at least one recess or recessed surface, in particular of the third surface 2, monolayer or multilayer , in particular by a step by PVD (acronym coming from the process known by the English name "Physical Vapor Déposition”), by CVD (acronym coming from the process known by the English name “Chemical Vapor Déposition”), by ALD (acronym coming from the process known by the English name "Atomic Layer Déposition”), by LBL (acronym from the process known by the English name "Layer by Layer”), by ink-jet, by dip-coating, by brush, by dispenser, by spraying, by nebulization or by sol-gel process.
  • PVD acronym coming from the process known by the English name "Physical Vapor Déposition”
  • CVD acronym coming from the process known by the English name "Chemical Va
  • Such a coating may comprise a layer composed of metal (metals) and / or oxide (s) and / or nitride (s) and / or carbide (s) and / or nitrocarbon (s) and / or sulfide (s) and / or organic material (s), and / or inorganic material (s), and / or hybrid material (s), and / or a paint , and / or a lacquer, and / or an enamel, and / or a varnish and / or a glass ceramic, and / or a material based on polymer or glue.
  • the figure 4 is a photograph of a timepiece component 10 taken at the interface between the first surface 1 and the third surface 2 of a recess, corresponding to an example comprising a recess according to the figure 1a , which will be detailed later.
  • the method may include a complementary step after the second termination step, for example a diamond-setting step to make a portion of the main surface, in particular the first surface 1, shiny, for example a portion forming a bevel.
  • the second termination step is not necessarily the last step of the manufacturing process.
  • the timepiece component 10 may comprise at least a second type of recess of any other geometry and / or a multitude of recesses, of the same geometry or not, nested one inside the other or not. Their conformations represent different variant embodiments.
  • the figure 2 illustrates by way of example, a timepiece component 10 according to an alternative embodiment.
  • This timepiece component 10 comprises a first planar surface 1, in which a recessed relief is present.
  • This recessed relief consists of a recess 20 or a second recessed surface 20 comprising a connecting surface 3, which itself comprises second recesses 21 or fourth recessed surfaces 21 each comprising a fifth surface 22 forming a background.
  • the first recess 20 has a V shape, as in the example of the figure 1c
  • the second recesses 21 inserted in the connection surface of the first recess 20 have a niche shape, as in the example of the figure 1a .
  • the second termination step is chosen to modify only the surface state of the first surface 1: thus, this step does not modify the surface state of the recessed surfaces 20 and 21.
  • the surface condition of a portion of the second recessed surface 20, lying between planes P1 and P2 as defined above, can also be affected by the second termination step, without the recesses or fourth surfaces recessed 21 are not affected.
  • the figure 3 illustrates by way of example a timepiece component 10 according to another particular exemplary embodiment.
  • This watch component 10 comprises a main surface 5, in which two recesses 20 and 20 ′ are present, in different zones forming a first surface 1 possibly discontinuous between the two recesses.
  • the second recess 20 ' is wider than the first recess 20 but less deep.
  • the recess 20 ′ is accessible to the media.
  • Each recess 20, 20 ′ is configured as defined above with reference to the figure 1c .
  • the termination step thus modifies the surface condition of the first surface 1 and of the second recess 20 ′ without affecting the first recess 20.
  • the horological component 10 in ceramic is a bezel disc. It has a main frustoconical surface 5, in particular a first frustoconical surface 1, in which recesses or recessed surfaces are formed in the form of crenellations comprising third surfaces each forming a bottom 2 as well as vertical or substantially vertical connecting surfaces 3 ensuring the connection between the first surface 1 and the third surfaces each forming a bottom.
  • the recesses have a rectangular section, 0.69 ⁇ 0.05 mm wide and deep 0.15 ⁇ 0.05 mm.
  • the bezel disc already presents its final geometry, with the recesses.
  • the surface condition of the first surface 1 before the second tribofinishing step (roughness R1) is polished, and that of the third surface 2 forming the bottom of a recess before the tribofinishing step (roughness R2) is sanded.
  • the roughness respective of the first surface 1 and the third surface 2 forming the bottom of a hollow become "R1 '" and "R2'”.
  • the figure 4 shows a photograph of a part of the timepiece component 10 obtained, seen from above at the interface between the first surface and the third surface 2 of a recess.
  • the top view makes it possible to observe the first surface 1 and the third surface 2 as well as the location of the edge 4.
  • the connecting surface is not visible.
  • the first surface 1 is in the form of a matt ceramic
  • the third surface 2 is in the form of a sanded ceramic covered by a PVD coating.
  • the figure 5 represents the linear roughness profile at the interface represented by the figure 4 . It makes it possible to note the difference in roughness between the third surface 2, ie the bottom of the recesses, and the first surface 1.
  • a timepiece component 10 in ceramic is a decorative plate. It has a first flat surface 1 in which notches in the form of slots form second surfaces set back from the first surface 1, comprising vertical or substantially vertical connecting surfaces ensuring the connection between the first surface 1 and third surfaces 2 each forming a background.
  • a polishing is applied to the first surface 1 and the third surfaces 2 at the end of the first step.
  • a second tribofinishing step similar to that described in the first example is applied.
  • the roughness measurements Ra and their deviations, in nanometers, are detailed by the following table, as well as the gloss measured with the gloss meter and expressed in gloss unit and the color expressed in the CIELab color space.
  • the variation in the surface finish by means of the described termination process can be accompanied by a change in color.
  • a black ceramic can become dark gray or a green ceramic can become dark green.
  • the figure 6 shows a photograph of part of the timepiece component 10 obtained, at the interface between the first surface 1 and the third surface 2 of a recess.
  • the top view makes it possible to observe the first surface 1 and the third surface 2 of a hollow as well as the location of the edge 4.
  • the connecting surface is not visible.
  • the first surface 1 is in the form of a matt ceramic
  • the third surface 2 is in the form of a polished ceramic.
  • the figure 7 represents the linear roughness profile at the interface represented by the figure 6 . It shows the difference in roughness between the third polished surface 2 forming the bottom of the recesses, and the first mat surface 1.
  • the invention makes it possible to easily obtain different surface states among which a first surface 1 uniformly finished and a third surface 2 polished or rough forming the bottom of the hollow.
  • the invention also relates to a timepiece component 10 as such obtained by the method described above.
  • This timepiece component 10 can for example be a bezel, a bezel disc, a covering element, a case, a case back, a middle part, a dial, a bracelet link or a decorative plate.
  • This component can also be a component of the movement, such as for example a date disc.
  • the timepiece component 10 therefore comprises a first surface 1, in which is arranged at least one recess forming at least one second surface arranged set back from the first surface 1.
  • This at least one second surface comprises for example a third surface 2 forming a bottom and a connecting surface located between the first surface 1 and the third surface 2.
  • the first surface 1 has a first surface state obtained by termination without having to protect the recesses while the media and / or abrasives are put in movement towards the recesses, this first surface state being different from the second surface state by at least a portion of the at least one recess.
  • the timepiece component 10 may comprise a first surface 1 uniformly matified by tribofinishing and a surface of a polished or rough recess.
  • the invention also relates to a timepiece as such, in particular a watch, more specifically a wristwatch.
  • a bezel disc which is a timepiece component 10 produced according to an embodiment of the invention.
  • This bezel disc comprises a main surface 5, for example two-color, comprising at least one polished zone 6 and at least one matified zone 7.
  • the polished disc can be protected with a mask (for example a rigid metal mask) on a zone 6 during the second tribofinishing step (here matification from a polished surface state).
  • the recesses 20 form indications, for example round, on the periphery of the telescope disc. These recesses have a coating to be able to present a predefined, clear and readable color.
  • the surface condition of these recesses is identical, regardless of their positioning within the at least one matt area or the at least one shiny area of the main surface 5 of the telescope disc.
  • the termination step is carried out in the presence of a recess in the surface concerned, that is to say in the presence of a recessed relief in the first surface which is processed by the termination step.
  • this coating is thin, and does not fill the entire height of the recess, so that there is always a recess forming a recessed relief in the surface .
  • This recess is present before the start of the termination step, as well as after this termination step.
  • this termination step cannot therefore be compared to a polishing which would remove excess material to form a continuous surface without relief, therefore without indentation, of a timepiece component.
  • the recess represents a hollow relief portion arranged on a first surface.
  • the surface of the recess, or second surface is understood as its upper surface, that is to say oriented towards the side of said first surface. It is arranged at a lower level than said first surface since the recess forms a hollow relief, and is not covered by another material, that is to say that it opens directly outwards, at least at the time of the second termination step.
  • this termination step at least a portion, preferably the portion of greatest depth, retains an unchanged surface condition.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Materials Engineering (AREA)
  • Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • General Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Adornments (AREA)
  • Other Surface Treatments For Metallic Materials (AREA)
  • Physical Vapour Deposition (AREA)
EP19196224.0A 2018-09-17 2019-09-09 Verfahren zur herstellung einer uhrenkomponente Pending EP3623877A1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP18194911 2018-09-17

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3623877A1 true EP3623877A1 (de) 2020-03-18

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EP19196224.0A Pending EP3623877A1 (de) 2018-09-17 2019-09-09 Verfahren zur herstellung einer uhrenkomponente

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US (1) US11745536B2 (de)
EP (1) EP3623877A1 (de)
JP (1) JP7474572B2 (de)
CN (1) CN110900315B (de)

Cited By (1)

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FR3141632A1 (fr) * 2022-11-04 2024-05-10 G. Et F. Châtelain, Succursale De Chanel Sarl Procédé de fabrication d’une pièce décorative semi-mate et pièce décorative semi-mate

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JP2022011407A (ja) 2020-06-30 2022-01-17 セイコーエプソン株式会社 時計用部品の加飾方法、時計用部品、時計用ムーブメント及び時計
US20220256720A1 (en) * 2021-02-08 2022-08-11 Apple Inc. Electronic devices with textured zirconia-based components

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CN110900315A (zh) 2020-03-24
CN110900315B (zh) 2024-10-18

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