EP3537919B1 - Gemme - Google Patents

Gemme Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3537919B1
EP3537919B1 EP17800762.1A EP17800762A EP3537919B1 EP 3537919 B1 EP3537919 B1 EP 3537919B1 EP 17800762 A EP17800762 A EP 17800762A EP 3537919 B1 EP3537919 B1 EP 3537919B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
facets
gemstone
light
girdle
angle
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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Application number
EP17800762.1A
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German (de)
English (en)
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EP3537919A1 (fr
Inventor
Michael Bonke
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Realization Desal AG
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Realization Desal AG
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Publication date
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Publication of EP3537919A1 publication Critical patent/EP3537919A1/fr
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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/001—Faceting gems

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a gemstone, in particular a diamond, but also to other gemstones, such as gemstones or semi-precious stones, or synthetic gemstones.
  • Gemstones with different cut shapes are known.
  • gemstones with a brilliant cut or octagonal cut have prevailed.
  • these types of cuts can have disadvantages under certain circumstances.
  • a major problem that gemstones, especially diamonds, have when they are used e.g. in a wristwatch dial is the size and the interaction of the individual facets of the stones.
  • a dial fully set with small brilliants can accommodate up to eight hundred individual brilliants, which are very small with an individual diameter of 1 mm or even less.
  • Human perception usually works up to a size of 0.2 mm. This means that the viewer perceives two points that are 0.2 mm apart as two separate points. When the distance decreases to 0.1 mm, the viewer perceives the two points as just one point.
  • the octagonal cut which is characterized by the fact that it has only sixteen facets (eight facets in the upper part and eight facets in the lower part) and one table facet, the individual facets of the upper part of the gemstone are usually still above the individual perceptual size. This means that an observer with the naked eye can make out a structure of the facet arrangement in the gemstone.
  • the octagonal cut has the disadvantage that breaking up the circular structure into just eight segments entails a certain loss of light. At each "corner" of the stone, where the individual facets face each other at a certain angle, the stone loses some light. In this respect, a gemstone with an octagonal cut does not have an optimal light yield.
  • the solution is provided by a gemstone which comprises a crown with a multiplicity of crown facets and a table, a girdle, and a bottom with a multiplicity of bottom facets.
  • An upper part angle is advantageously between 34.5° and 35.5°, preferably 35°, with a lower part angle being between 40° and 41°, preferably between 40.2° and 40.8°, particularly preferably 40.5°.
  • the angle of the outer top facets to the girdle plane of the gem which runs perpendicular to a vertical axis of the gem or longitudinal axis of the gem, is between 34.5° and 35.5°, preferably 35°.
  • the angle of the lower part facets to a horizontal axis of the gemstone is between 40° and 41°, preferably between 40.2° and 40.8°, particularly preferably 40.5°.
  • the upper part angle is 35° and the lower part angle is 40.5°.
  • the light is guided within the stone in such a way that the total reflection angle is used correctly and does not work against the light output of the gemstone.
  • Total reflection occurs when a ray of light falls below the angle of total reflection attempting to exit from an optically denser medium into an optically thinner medium. If the light ray strikes the boundary of the two optical media within the angle of total reflection, it is "totally" reflected. This means that zero percent of the light is lost in the process.
  • the edge areas of the gemstones are the sensitive areas where, as a rule, greater light losses occur than with light which impinges on the inner part of the table facet.
  • the proposed angular arrangement avoids a loss of light in the light which falls on the edge of a gem from above on the gem. This results in an optimal overall yield of the incident light with the gemstone.
  • the gem described offers the advantage of high dispersion, in particular due to its upper part angle.
  • Dispersion is the breakdown of white light into its spectral colors.
  • dispersion means the different refraction according to the different refractive indices of the different wavelengths of light. Due to the high degree of dispersion of the gemstone, the gemstone comes to life and a natural degree of color of the gemstone recedes into the background. This is of particular advantage in the case of gemstones with a "low" degree of color, because a viewer is then unable to perceive the low degree of color and therefore classifies the gemstone as very interesting. The reason is that the impression of the white light broken down into the spectral colors, i.e. the simultaneous appearance of the different spectral colors (rainbow colors), makes it impossible for the viewer to recognize the original color. In other words, the spectral colors dominate the visual impression and drown out the color perception of the gemstone.
  • the proposed gem has the advantage that the gem represents an aesthetically interesting and clearly recognizable light pattern under a kaleidoscope magnifying glass.
  • the light pattern loses its optical effect and does not appear concise. This creates a clear Light pattern, which results in a star of arrows with most facetings of the gemstones when viewed from above. When viewed from the back of the gemstone, the pattern of light may reveal a flower or an arrangement of hearts.
  • the principle of a kaleidoscope magnifying glass is that the light falling on the stone from above, perpendicular to its horizontal axis, is white, unfiltered light.
  • the white light coming in from directly above becomes dominant and clearly distinguishes itself from the light coming in from the side.
  • This separation of strong white light incident vertically on the stone and reduced colored light incident from the side means that the lighting of the white light leaves up to 10 times the optical impression compared to the result of the slightly more oblique colored lighting.
  • the girdle corresponds to a peripheral edge or a separating edge between the upper part (crown) and the lower part (pavilion) of cut gemstones.
  • the crown is the upper part of the gemstone that is above the girdle.
  • the base is the lower part of the diamond that lies below the girdle.
  • the table (table facet) is the largest facet of the top of the gemstone.
  • the crown angle (crown angle) is the angle that results from a side view of the gemstone between the lateral boundary line of the crown and the girdle plane, this boundary line resulting from an orthogonal projection of a crown facet onto a plane that contains the longitudinal axis of the gemstone.
  • the girdle plane is that plane which is parallel to the table and in which the gem has the greatest cross-sectional dimension.
  • the girdle plane is aligned perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of the gemstone.
  • the base angle (pavilion angle) is the angle that results from a side view of the gemstone between the lateral boundary line of the base and the girdle plane, this boundary line resulting from an orthogonal projection of a base facet onto a plane that contains the longitudinal axis of the gemstone.
  • the top of the gem has one angular plane or two angular planes.
  • angular plane is meant a series of facets extending in the direction from the girdle of the gemstone, i.e. the outer bounding circle, to the center of the stone, than to the center of the tablet, have a definite angle in relation to the horizontal plane.
  • an aesthetically interesting and valuable light pattern is achieved under a kaleidoscope loupe.
  • the vibrancy of the gemstone is optimized in the critical areas of a flat viewing angle. This ensures that the gemstone not only sparkles and is lively when viewed from above, or that the flashes of red and blue light, which are caused by the dispersion of the light in the gemstone, are also clearly visible from a flat viewing angle.
  • This advantage not only unfolds in the individual gemstones, but is particularly interesting when it comes to covering an entire area with many smaller gemstones. This is the case, for example, with a pavee-set surface of a piece of jewelery or with a watch face.
  • the table is preferably a regular dodecagon. This means that the gemstone is cut in a rhythm of 12.
  • the 12-part division increases the overall light output of the gemstone.
  • a combination of a division of 12 and one or two angle planes in the upper part of the gemstone achieves greater sparkle while maintaining the overall light output.
  • the sum of the crown facets and the bottom facets is thirty-six or twenty-four facets.
  • the top facets are reduced compared to a brilliant cut gemstone. This contributes to increasing the sparkle of the gemstone.
  • the reduced number of crown facets, and consequently the reduced total number of facets of the gemstone results in a light pattern that is visually perceived as impressive or concise under a kaleidoscope loupe.
  • the certain number of facets of the upper part enables optimization of the liveliness of the gemstone in the critical areas of a flat viewing angle.
  • the base facets preferably comprise lower girdle facets and the crown facets comprise upper girdle facets, with each of the lower girdle facets being precisely aligned with one of the upper girdle facets.
  • the juxtaposition of the lower girdle facets and the upper girdle facets avoids a flash of light being split in two by striking a double facet in the stone. Thus, the sparkle of the gemstone is increased.
  • a clear light pattern of the gemstone is achieved under a kaleidoscope magnifying glass.
  • a further aspect of the invention relates to a watch with at least one gemstone which is arranged in particular in a space between the dial and the hands.
  • the space or the receiving space of the clock in which a clock face and/or at least one pointer of the clock are arranged is the dial-pointer space.
  • the gemstone is particularly preferably arranged in the dial. More than two hundred jewels, particularly preferably more than four hundred to eight hundred jewels, are preferably provided in the dial. In particular, the gemstones each have a diameter of less than 2 mm, particularly preferably equal to or less than 1 mm.
  • the impression of unrest in the dial disappears.
  • the gemstone described above represents a significant improvement in the effect of the gemstone, in particular a diamond, within the dial-hand space.
  • the watch glass which is located above the dial or an inner bezel, yes reduced some part of the light effect.
  • Both the light falling on the diamonds is reduced by the watch glass and the light emerging from the diamonds is largely swallowed up by the watch glass at flat exit angles, and reduced by approx. 10% to 30% at steep exit angles.
  • the reduction in light caused by the crystal is "compensated” for, allowing the gem to perform well under the crystal. This is of particular importance when using gemstones in clocks or wristwatches.
  • FIG. 1 a gemstone 1 according to a first embodiment not part of the present invention is described in detail.
  • the Figure 1(a) a top view that Figure 1(b) a side view
  • the Figure 1(c) a bottom view of the gemstone 1.
  • the Figure 1(d) shows a light pattern of the gemstone 1 from above under a kaleidoscope magnifying glass.
  • the gemstone 1 has an upper part 2 , a girdle 3 and a lower part 4 .
  • An upper part angle ⁇ of the gemstone 1 is between 34.5° and 35.5°, preferably 35°. Furthermore, a lower part angle ⁇ of the gemstone 1 is between 40° and 41°, preferably between 40.2° and 40.8°, particularly preferably 40.5°. In particular, the upper part angle ⁇ is 35° and the lower part angle ⁇ is 40.5°.
  • the upper part 2 comprises a panel 10 and a multiplicity of upper part facets 11,12, the lower part 4 having a multiplicity of lower part facets 13,14.
  • the upper part facets 11, 12 comprise first upper part facets 11 and second upper part facets (upper girdle facets) 12.
  • the lower part facets 13, 14 comprise first lower part facets (lower girdle facets) 13 and second lower part facets 14.
  • the panel 10 is formed as a regular dodecagon.
  • the first upper part facets 11 each adjoin the panel 10 with a broad side
  • the second upper part facets 12 extending from the panel 10 to the girdle 3 and adjoining the girdle 3 with a broad side.
  • Figure 1(a) the shape of an inner star.
  • the first top facets 11 have the shape of a pentagon and the second top facets 12 have the shape of a triangle.
  • the first sub-facets 13 have the shape of a triangle and the second sub-facets 12 have the shape of a pentagon.
  • this embodiment of the gemstone 1 has twelve such first upper part facets 11 and twelve such second upper part facets 12 .
  • a total of twenty-four top facets are provided for the gemstone 1 .
  • the first lower part facets 13 each border the panel 10 with a broad side, the second lower part facets 14 extending from the panel 10 to the girdle 3 .
  • this embodiment of the gemstone 1 has twelve such first sub-part facets 13 and twelve such second sub-part facets 14 .
  • a total of twenty-four lower part facets are provided for the gemstone 1 .
  • the total number of facets of Gem 1 is 49 facets (48 crown and base facets plus the table 10).
  • the upper part 2 of the gemstone 1 has two angular planes, one angular plane comprising the first upper part facets 12 and the other angular plane comprising the second upper part facets 13 .
  • the lower part 3 has two angular planes, one angular plane comprising the first lower part facets 13 and the other angular plane comprising the second lower part facets 14 .
  • the lower part 2 converges to form a point (cullet) 5 .
  • the tip 5 is formed by the second bottom part facets 14 .
  • each of the second cap facets 12 is precisely aligned with a first base facet 13 .
  • FIG 2 1 shows a gemstone 1 according to a second embodiment of the present invention.
  • Figure 2(a) a top view that Figure 2(b) a side view, and the Figure 2(c) a bottom view of the gemstone 1.
  • the second exemplary embodiment differs fundamentally from the first exemplary embodiment in that the first upper part facets 11 each border the panel 10 with a broad side and extend from the panel 10 to the girdle 3 .
  • the second upper part facets 12 each border the girdle 3 with a broad side.
  • first top facets 11 each have the shape of a triangle and the second top facets 12 have the shape of a pentagon.
  • Figure 2(a) the shape of an outer star.
  • the Figure 2(d) 12 shows a light pattern of the gem 1 from above when the gem 1 is viewed under a kaleidoscope magnifying glass.
  • FIG 3 1 shows a gemstone 1 according to a third embodiment of the present invention.
  • Figure 3(a) a top view that Figure 3(b) a side view, and the Figure 3(c) a bottom view of the gemstone 1.
  • the first upper part facets 11 each border the panel 10 with a broad side and extend from the panel 10 to the girdle 3 as in the second exemplary embodiment.
  • the second upper part facets 12 each border the girdle 3 with a broad side and extend from the panel 10 to the girdle 3.
  • both the first crown facets 11 and the second crown facets 12 extend from the panel 10 to the girdle 3.
  • the first top facets 11 and the second top facets 12 are formed in a triangular shape.
  • Figure 3(a) the shape of a full star.
  • the upper part facets 11 , 12 result in only a single angular plane in the upper part 2 of the gemstone 1 , since all upper part facets 11 , 12 go from the girdle 3 to the table 10 . This means that all crown facets 11, 12 have the same angle of attack, which is equal to the crown angle.
  • Figures 3(d) and (e) show light patterns of gemstone 1 from above and below under a kaleidoscope magnifying glass.
  • FIG 4 1 shows a gemstone 1 according to a fourth embodiment of the present invention.
  • Figure 4(a) a top view that Figure 4(b) a side view, and the Figure 4(c) a bottom view of the gemstone 1.
  • the upper part 2 has only a large number of first upper part facets 11 . That is, the crown facets include only the first crown facets 11 .
  • the first top facets 11 are each formed in the shape of a square and border on the panel 10 and the girdle 2 .
  • the gem 1 in the upper part 2 has only one angular plane.
  • the total number of facets of Gem 1 is 37 facets (36 cap and base facets plus the table 10).
  • Each of the first upper part facets 11 is advantageously placed opposite a first lower part facet 13 .
  • the Figure 4(d) 12 shows a light pattern of the gem 1 from above when the gem 1 is viewed under a kaleidoscope magnifying glass.
  • the figure 5 12 shows a gemstone 1 according to a fifth embodiment of the present invention.
  • Figure 5(a) a top view that Figure 5(b) a side view, and the Figure 5(c) a bottom view of the gemstone 1.
  • the difference between the gemstone 1 according to the fifth embodiment and the gemstone 1 according to the fourth embodiment is that the first upper part facets 11 in the fifth embodiment are arranged twisted in the circumferential direction or in the direction of the girdle 3 with respect to the first lower part facets 13.
  • the gem 1 of figure 5 an angular plane in the upper part 2.
  • the Figure 5(d) 12 shows the resulting light pattern of gem 1 from above when gem 1 is viewed under a kaleidoscope loupe.
  • the figure 6 12 shows a gemstone 1 according to a sixth embodiment of the present invention.
  • the upper part 2 of the gemstone 1 corresponds in terms of structure to the upper part 2 of the gemstone 1 according to the fourth embodiment.
  • Figure 6(a) a top view that Figure 6(b) a side view, and the Figure 6(c) a bottom view of the gemstone 1.
  • the bottom part 4 has only one angle plane, which comprises a multiplicity of first bottom part facets 13 .
  • the sub-part facets only include the first sub-part facets 13 .
  • the lower part 4 has twelve lower part facets or twelve first lower part facets 13 .
  • the first lower part facets 13 are each designed in the shape of a triangle and extend from the tip 5 (cullet) to the girdle 3.
  • the first lower part facets 13 border the girdle 3 with a broad side.
  • the tip 5 is formed by the first lower part facets 13 .
  • the total number of facets of Gem 1 is 25 facets (24 crown and base facets plus the table 10).
  • the Figure 6(d) 12 shows the resulting light pattern of gem 1 from above when gem 1 is viewed under a kaleidoscope loupe.
  • the gemstones 1 described above reflect a very high percentage of the light striking them back into the viewer's eye. Furthermore, the gemstones 1 can throw back the highest possible proportion of the incident white light, fanned out into the spectral colors, back into the eye of the beholder. Furthermore, in the case of the gemstones 1, a high proportion of the incident light is reflected as individual flashes of light. This means that the gemstones 1 do not convert concentrated light into scattered, diffused light. Furthermore, the gemstones 1 are such designed so that they reflect the incident light back to the viewer in such a way that the gemstones shine brightly, show dispersion and sparkle when viewed from as many (including flat) positions as possible. In addition, the gemstones 1 are optimized for use in a watch.
  • the gemstones 1 in their sparkle and dispersion behavior have fewer but stronger light flashes, with the gemstones 1 also sparkling at flat viewing angles and emitting dispersion beams.
  • the gemstones 1 according to the exemplary embodiments explained make a calm, non-design-dominant impression.
  • Gems are 1 Kaleidoscope-enabled. That is, the gemstones 1 produce an aesthetically pleasing and clearly recognizable symbol of light when the gemstones 1 are viewed under a kaleidoscope magnifying glass.

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  • Adornments (AREA)

Claims (5)

  1. Pierre précieuse (1) comprenant :
    - une couronne (2) avec une pluralité de facettes de couronne (11, 12) et une table (10),
    - un rondiste (3), et
    - une culasse (4) avec une pluralité de facettes de culasse (13, 14),
    - caractérisée en ce qu'
    - un angle de couronne (α) est compris entre 34,5° et 35,5°, de manière préférée est de 35°, et un angle de culasse (β) est compris entre 40° et 41°, de manière préférée entre 40,2° et 40,8°, de manière particulièrement préférée est de 40,5°, et
    - la somme des facettes de couronne (11, 12) et des facettes de culasse (13, 14) est de 36 ou de 24 facettes.
  2. Pierre précieuse selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que la couronne (2) de la pierre précieuse (1) présente un plan angulaire ou deux plans angulaires.
  3. Pierre précieuse selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que la table (10) est un dodécagone régulier.
  4. Pierre précieuse selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que les facettes de culasse comprennent des facettes de rondiste inférieures (13) et les facettes de couronne comprennent des facettes de rondiste supérieures (12), dans laquelle chacune des facettes de rondiste inférieures (13) est orientée précisément sur une des facettes de rondiste supérieures (12).
  5. Montre avec au moins une pierre précieuse (1) selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, qui est disposée dans un espace de cadran et d'aiguille ou dans un verre de montre.
EP17800762.1A 2016-11-11 2017-11-07 Gemme Active EP3537919B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102016222189.2A DE102016222189A1 (de) 2016-11-11 2016-11-11 Schmuckstein
PCT/EP2017/078417 WO2018087065A1 (fr) 2016-11-11 2017-11-07 Gemme

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3537919A1 EP3537919A1 (fr) 2019-09-18
EP3537919B1 true EP3537919B1 (fr) 2022-04-27

Family

ID=60388012

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP17800762.1A Active EP3537919B1 (fr) 2016-11-11 2017-11-07 Gemme

Country Status (4)

Country Link
US (1) US20190298011A1 (fr)
EP (1) EP3537919B1 (fr)
DE (1) DE102016222189A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2018087065A1 (fr)

Families Citing this family (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
USD901324S1 (en) * 2015-04-22 2020-11-10 Shenzhen Perfect Love Diamond Co., Ltd. Diamond with eighty-one facets
USD829124S1 (en) * 2016-11-11 2018-09-25 Realization Desal Ag Cut stone
USD883134S1 (en) * 2016-11-11 2020-05-05 Realization Desal Ag Cut stone
US20190261747A1 (en) * 2018-02-23 2019-08-29 Jack Reiss Llc Cutting method for a diamond with low depth percentage and resultant cut diamond
TWD210100S (zh) * 2020-02-07 2021-02-21 瑞士商哈利溫士頓公司 針盤

Family Cites Families (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
AT393597B (de) * 1990-04-10 1991-11-11 Swarovski & Co Zur herstellung von kesselketten geeigneter schmuckstein
US6422039B2 (en) * 2000-07-20 2002-07-23 D. Swarovski & Co. Gem
US9486043B2 (en) * 2007-05-04 2016-11-08 Worldwide Diamond Trademarks Ltd. Hexagon shaped diamond which displays hearts and arrows pattern
AT12644U1 (de) * 2011-03-07 2012-09-15 Swarovski D Kg Brilliantschliff
CN103564998B (zh) * 2013-11-11 2015-11-11 张坤芝 内部呈现十二箭结构的85刻面的钻石
US9226554B2 (en) * 2014-05-12 2016-01-05 Yoshihiko Kodama Circular cut diamond
DE102015207049A1 (de) * 2015-04-17 2016-10-20 Levitation AG Uhrglas mit mindestens einem Schmuckstein

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP3537919A1 (fr) 2019-09-18
WO2018087065A1 (fr) 2018-05-17
DE102016222189A1 (de) 2018-05-17
US20190298011A1 (en) 2019-10-03

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