EP3267966A1 - Agent de coloration pour fibres kératiniques comprenant un colorant sélectionné et un ou des polyols - Google Patents

Agent de coloration pour fibres kératiniques comprenant un colorant sélectionné et un ou des polyols

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Publication number
EP3267966A1
EP3267966A1 EP16708967.1A EP16708967A EP3267966A1 EP 3267966 A1 EP3267966 A1 EP 3267966A1 EP 16708967 A EP16708967 A EP 16708967A EP 3267966 A1 EP3267966 A1 EP 3267966A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
amino
hair
red
peg
agent
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
EP16708967.1A
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Konstantin Goutsis
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of EP3267966A1 publication Critical patent/EP3267966A1/fr
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A61K8/411—Aromatic amines, i.e. where the amino group is directly linked to the aromatic nucleus
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A61K8/418—Amines containing nitro groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/432—Direct dyes
    • A61K2800/4322—Direct dyes in preparations for temporarily coloring the hair further containing an oxidizing agent

Definitions

  • the present application relates to agents for dyeing keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, which contain a selected dye in combination with a polyol.
  • the invention also relates to the use of the compositions and to a process for dyeing keratinic fibers.
  • oxidation dyes For the dyeing of keratinic fibers, either direct dyes or oxidation dyes are generally used. Although intensive dyeings with good fastness properties can be obtained with oxidation dyes, the development of the color is generally under the influence of oxidizing agents such as H2O2, which in some cases can cause damage to the fiber. Furthermore, some oxidation dye precursors or certain mixtures of oxidation dye precursors may be sensitizing in persons with sensitive skin. Direct dyes are applied under gentler conditions. Their disadvantage, however, is that the dyeings often have only insufficient fastness properties, especially in hair washing, but also against external influences, such as sunlight or reactive environmental chemicals, such as swimming pool water.
  • an optimal gray coverage is understood as the complete lamination or covering of gray hair. If a colorant with optimal gray coverage is used in a person whose hair is grayed to 50%, for example (50% of the hair is grayed and 50% of the hair is still pigmented), a uniform color result is obtained after application of the colorant, ie a color difference between the gray and the non-graying hair is no longer noticeable after staining.
  • gray coverage While a good to very good gray coverage can usually be achieved with oxidative colorants, the gray coverage that can be achieved with substantive dyes is hitherto unsatisfactory.
  • the user who would like to do without the use of oxidative hair dyes due to the associated hair damage, therefore, to lamination or coverage of his (wholly or partially) graying hair only insufficient options available.
  • the consumer also wants shiny hair. Shiny hair looks attractive and healthy, the hair is perceived as well-groomed and vital.
  • the consumer has several wishes that he wants to meet at the same time, that is, he wants an attractive hair coloring and at the same time he wants shiny hair. For practical reasons, he would like his hair to undergo only one treatment procedure.
  • the object of the present invention was therefore to provide new, based on substantive dyes dyes that stain the hair intensely, this allow a good gray coverage and at the same time give it a very strong shine.
  • the gloss of the dyeings produced with these agents should be long-lasting and survive several hair washes.
  • compositions containing at least one nonionic substantive dye and at least 0.1% by weight, based on the total agent, of one or more polyols are capable of coloring keratinic fibers in intense shades. Surprisingly, it has been found that simultaneously with the coloring, the gloss of the keratinic fibers was significantly increased and the gray coverage could be improved.
  • keratinic fibers or keratin fibers are furs, wool, feathers and especially human hair to understand. Although the agents are primarily suitable for dyeing keratin fibers, in principle, there is nothing to prevent their use in other areas as well.
  • dyeing agent of keratin fibers used is meant dyeing agents which dye the keratin fibers on the basis of substantive dyes.
  • these agents may also contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developers and coupler components. Developers and couplers diffuse separately into the keratin fiber and form under the influence of an alkalizing agent (for example, ammonia) and an oxidizing agent (usually hydrogen peroxide) in a chemical reaction with each other, the actual dyes.
  • the colorants may additionally contain one or more oxidizing agents. If hair dyeing agents contain only direct dyes, they will be dyed without lightening at the same time. If, however, the agents additionally contain developers, couplers and / or oxidants, the keratin fibers are additionally lightened due to the further presence of the oxidant. A whitening stain is explicitly included in the definition of staining.
  • compositions contain the ingredients (a) and (b) in a cosmetic carrier, preferably in a suitable aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic carrier.
  • a cosmetic carrier preferably in a suitable aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic carrier.
  • a cosmetic carrier preferably in a suitable aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic carrier.
  • a suitable aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic carrier preferably in a suitable aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic carrier.
  • a cosmetic carrier preferably in a suitable aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic carrier.
  • aqueous-alcoholic solutions are to be understood as meaning aqueous solutions containing from 3 to 70% by weight of a monohydric C 1 -C 4 -alcohol, in particular ethanol or isopropanol.
  • the agents may additionally contain other organic solvents, such as methoxybutanol or benzyl alcohol. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents.
  • the aqueous carrier according to the invention contains at least 30 wt .-%, in particular at least 50 wt .-% water, based on the total weight of the agent. Preference is given to aqueous carriers.
  • the agents contain at least one nonionic substantive dye. This can be selected from the group HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 7, HC Red 10 , HC Red 1 1, HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 1 1, HC Blue 12, HC Blue 15, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9 , 1, 4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1, 4-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- (2-hydroxyethyl) aminophenol, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitro-1-methylbenzene, 1-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-5-chloro -2
  • Particularly preferred nonionic substantive dyes are HC Blue 12 and HC Blue 15.
  • the nonionic substantive dye used is HC Blue 12 and has the formula (I):
  • This particularly preferred dye is the hydrochloride of 2- [ethyl-4- [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitroanilino] ethanol.
  • the dye has the CAS number 132885-85-9.
  • the nonionic substantive dye employed is HC Blue 15 and has the formula (II):
  • This most preferred nonionic substantive dye is 1: 1 mixture of phosphoric acid and 4 - [(2,6-dichlorophenyl) (4-imino-3,5-dimethylcyclohexa-2,5-dien-1-ylidene) methyl] -2,6-xylidine, which is also known under the CAS number 74578-10-2.
  • the means for dyeing keratin fibers may contain the nonionic direct dye (s) in principle in amounts of 0.01 to 5.0 wt .-%.
  • the generation of intensive staining results, gloss and good gray coverage on the keratin fibers is possible even at levels below 1.5% by weight.
  • the / nonionic substantive dye (s) in an amount of 0.05 to 0.175 wt .-% and particularly preferably from 0.075 to 0.2 wt .-% - each based on the total weight of the composition - included is.
  • the non-ionic substantive dyes used in combination with a polyol can dye keratinic fibers with an intensive color result and increase the gloss of the fibers and the gray coverage.
  • an intense staining result a greatly increased gloss and a better gray coverage on the keratin fibers could be observed if the polyol (s) (b) were used in a minimum amount of 0.1% by weight.
  • the agent contains one or more polyol (s) in a total amount of at least 0.1% by weight.
  • the basis of calculation for the amounts of polyols (b) here is the total amount of all polyols present in the middle, which is related to the total amount of the agent.
  • Preferred polyols are polyhydric C 2 -C 9 alkanols having two to six hydroxyl groups and polyethylene glycols having 3 to 20 ethylene oxide units.
  • the compositions contain at least one polyhydric C 2 -C 9 alkanol having two to six hydroxyl groups or at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol having from 3 to 20 ethylene oxide units or mixtures of at least one polyhydric C 2 -C 9 alkanol having two to six hydroxyl groups and at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol 3 to 20 ethylene oxide units.
  • the C2-C9 alkanols having two to six hydroxyl groups are selected from 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, glycerol, 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol , 1,4-Butylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2,6-hexanetriol, 1,2-octanediol, 1,8-octanediol , Dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, diglycerol, triglycerol, erythritol, sorbitol, cis-1,4-dimethylolcyclohexane, trans-1,4-dimethylolcyclohexane, any isomeric mixtures of cis
  • Suitable water-soluble polyethylene glycols are selected from PEG-3, PEG-4, PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-9, PEG-10, PEG-12, PEG-14, PEG-16, PEG-18 and PEG-20 and mixtures thereof, with PEG-3 to PEG-8 being preferred.
  • polyols are methylol compounds, such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol, sugar alcohols having 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as sorbitol or mannitol, sugars having 5 to 12 carbon atoms such as glucose or sucrose, or amino sugars such as glucamine.
  • Most preferred polyols are selected from the group consisting of 1,2-propylene glycol, glycerol, 1,3-butylene glycol, PEG-3, PEG-4, PEG-5, PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-8 and mixtures it.
  • Particularly preferred polyols are 1, 2-propylene glycol, 1, 3-butylene glycol, PEG-8 or mixtures thereof.
  • polyols are therefore preferably used in a total amount of from 1.0 to 20.0% by weight, preferably from 1.5 to 15.0% by weight and more preferably from 2.0 to 10.0% by weight ,
  • the agents may additionally contain at least one further substantive dye.
  • Other substantive dyes may be selected from anionic and / or cationic substantive dyes.
  • One or more dyes from the group Basic Yellow 87, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Orange 31, Basic Red 51, Basic Red 76, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic have proven particularly compatible Blue 99, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17, HC Blue 16 and Cationic Blue 347 proved.
  • Very particularly preferred further cationic substantive dyes are the azo dyes Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51.
  • Basic Red 51 is the dye 2 - [((4-dimethylamino) phenyl) azo] -1,3-dimethyl-1H-imidazolium chloride having the CAS number 77061-58-6, which is described, for example, in US Pat the trade name MIP RED 2985, RED (MIP 2985), MIP 2985 or VIBRACOLOR® Ruby Red is commercially available.
  • Basic Orange 31 is the dye 2 - [(4-aminophenyl) azo] -1,3-dimethyl-1H-imidazolium chloride having the CAS number 97404-02-9, which is marketed under the trade names MIP Orange 3100, MIP 3100, Orange (MIP 3100), VIBRACOLOR® Flame Orange or COLIPA B1 18 is commercially available.
  • the agent additionally contains Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51.
  • anionic direct dyes may also be included under the international trade names Acid Yellow 1, Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, Pigment Red 57: 1, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, Acid Violet 43, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52, bromophenol blue and tetrabromophenol blue.
  • Developer-type oxidation dye precursors are selected from at least one compound from the group formed from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (1,2-dihydroxyethyl) - p-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-imidazole -1-yl) propyl] amine, N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1, 3-diamino-propan-2-ol, bis ( 2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane, 1, 3-bis (2,5-diaminophenoxy) propan-2-ol, N,
  • coupler-type oxidation dye precursors are selected from the group consisting of 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 5 Amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, 2-aminophenol, 3-phenylenediamine, 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy ) ethanol, 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenyl) propane, 2, 6-Bis (2'-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene, 2 - ( ⁇ 3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl ⁇ amino) ethanol
  • the other substantive dyes, developer components and coupler components are preferably used in a proportion of 0.0001 to 5.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 3.5 wt .-%, each based on the ready-to-use agent.
  • developer components and coupler components are generally used in approximately molar amounts to each other.
  • a certain excess of individual oxidation dye precursors is not disadvantageous, so that developer components and coupler components in a molar ratio of 1: 0.5 to 1: 3, in particular 1: 1 to 1: 2 , can stand.
  • the agents additionally contain an oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide and / or one of its solid addition products of organic or inorganic compounds.
  • hydrogen peroxide itself is used as the aqueous solution.
  • concentration of a hydrogen peroxide solution on average is determined on the one hand by the legal requirements and on the other hand by the desired effect; preferably 6 to 12 wt .-% solutions are used in water.
  • Suitable ready-to-use agents are characterized in that, based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent, 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 1 to 12.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 2.5 to 10 wt .-% and in particular 3 to 6 wt .-% hydrogen peroxide, each based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition may further contain at least one peroxo salt.
  • Suitable peroxo salts are inorganic peroxo compounds, preferably selected from the group formed from ammonium peroxodisulfate, alkali metal peroxodisulfates, ammonium peroxomonosulfate, alkali metal peroxomonosulfates, alkali metal peroxodiphosphates and alkaline earth metal peroxides. Particularly preferred are peroxodisulfates, especially ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate and sodium peroxodisulfate.
  • an agent is characterized in that it additionally contains at least one persulfate from the group consisting of ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate and sodium peroxodisulfate.
  • the persulfates are each in an amount of 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 1 to 12.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 2.5 to 10 wt .-% and in particular 3 to 6 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent containing the agent.
  • Ammonium peroxodisulfate (or ammonium persulfate) is a compound of formula (NH4) 2S20s.
  • Potassium peroxodisulfate (or potassium persulfate) is a compound of the formula K2S2O8.
  • Sodium peroxodisulfate (or sodium persulfate) is a compound of the formula Na2S20s.
  • the agents may also contain one or more zwitterionic and / or amphoteric, anionic, cationic and / or nonionic surfactants. It is preferred if the agent contains amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants, but the content of anionic surfactants and cationic surfactants on average is as low as possible.
  • amphoteric surfactants are subdivided into ampholytic / amphoteric surfactants and zwitterionic surfactants.
  • Ampholytic / amphoteric surfactants are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which have both acidic (for example -COOH or -SO 3 H groups) and basic hydrophilic groups (for example amino groups) and thus behave acidic or basic depending on the condition.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are understood by the person skilled in the art to be surfactants which carry both a negative and a positive charge in the same molecule.
  • Examples of preferred zwitterionic surfactants are the betaines, the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, the N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinate and the 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 24 -Catoms in the alkyl group.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylaminopropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group.
  • amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants are the surfactants of the following formulas (III) and / or (IV).
  • an agent is therefore characterized in that it contains as amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactant at least one compound of the formula (III) and / or of the formula (IV),
  • R4, R5 each independently represent a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched Cs-C24 alkyl group.
  • the one or more amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants may be used in a total amount of from 0.1 to 4.0% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 2.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.4 to 1, 8 wt .-% and particularly preferably from 0.6 to 0.9 wt .-% - in each case based on the total weight of the composition - be contained.
  • compositions contain nonionic surfactants.
  • Preferred nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides and alkylene oxide addition products of fatty alcohols and fatty acids with in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Preparations having excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.
  • the nonionic surfactants can be used in amounts of from 0.1 to 45% by weight, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight and very particularly preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total amount of ready-to-use agents.
  • compositions having a total content of one or more polyols of at least 0.1% by weight By employing one or more nonionic substantive dyes in compositions having a total content of one or more polyols of at least 0.1% by weight, intense colorations of exceptionally high gloss can be obtained on keratinic fibers.
  • gloss-generating ingredients can thus be dispensed with.
  • certain oils can produce gloss.
  • oils are also known to deposit on the keratinic fibers, to make the fibers heavier and thus give them a "greasy" appearance, in a further particularly preferred embodiment it is therefore preferred to incorporate them into the It is not possible to use any of the fatty acid triglycerides, silicone oils and hydrocarbons, but it does not cause any greasiness, and the keratin fibers are not weighted, they do not look greasy and the hair does not lose their hair in volume.
  • the total content of the oils from the group of the fatty acid triglycerides, the silicone oils and the hydrocarbons, based on the total weight of the composition, which are present in the middle, is preferably less than 1.0% by weight, preferably less than 0.25% by weight. %, more preferably below 0, 1 wt .-% and most preferably below 0.05% by weight.
  • an oil is understood as meaning a hydrophobic compound which is liquid at 20.degree. C. and which at 20.degree. C. has a solubility in water of less than 1.0, preferably less than 0.1 g per liter (g of oil per liter of water ) owns.
  • the ready-to-use agents may contain other auxiliaries and additives.
  • Dyeing processes on keratin fibers usually take place in the weakly acidic to alkaline range, preferably in the slightly acidic to weakly alkaline medium.
  • the pH of the agents can in principle be between 1 and 12.
  • the pH is in the range of 1.0 to 8.5, preferably 2.0 to 8.0, more preferably 3.5 to 7.0, and most preferably 4.0 to 6.9.
  • the pH values are values measured at a temperature of 20 ° C., for example with a glass electrode.
  • the alkalizing agents which can be used to adjust the preferred pH are preferably selected from ammonia, alkanolamines, basic amino acids and inorganic alkalizing agents.
  • Preferred inorganic alkalizing agents are magnesium carbonate, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, sodium silicate and sodium metasilicate.
  • usable, organic alkalizing agents are preferably selected from monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methylpropanol and triethanolamine.
  • the basic amino acids which can be used as alkalizing agents are preferably selected from the group formed from arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine, more preferably arginine.
  • Acidifiers which can be used to adjust the pH are organic acids, such as citric acid, acetic acid, ascorbic acid, benzoic acid, lactic acid, malic acid and maleic acid, as well as mineral acids, such as hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid or phosphoric acid.
  • the colorants in particular if they additionally contain hydrogen peroxide, contain at least one stabilizer or complexing agent.
  • Particularly preferred stabilizers are phenacetin, alkali benzoates (sodium benzoate) and salicylic acid.
  • all complexing agents of the prior art can be used, preferred complexing agents are nitrogen-containing polycarboxylic acids, in particular ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS), and phosphonates, in particular 1-hydroxyethane-1, 1-diphosphonate (HEDP) and / or ethylenediamine tetramethylenephosphonate (EDTMP ) and or
  • Diethylenetriamine pentamethylene phosphonate (DTPMP) or its sodium salts.
  • the agents may contain other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as nonionic polymers, cationic polymers, zwitterionic and amphoteric polymers, structuralants, hair conditioning compounds, fiber structure-improving agents, dyes for staining the agent, anti-dandruff agents, amino acids, oligopeptides, protein hydrolysates on animal and / or plant-based, light stabilizers, UV blockers, active ingredients, vitamins, provitamins, vitamin precursors, plant extracts, fats, waxes, swelling and penetrating agents, opacifiers, pearlescing agents, thickeners, pigments and propellants.
  • auxiliaries and additives such as nonionic polymers, cationic polymers, zwitterionic and amphoteric polymers, structuralants, hair conditioning compounds, fiber structure-improving agents, dyes for staining the agent, anti-dandruff agents, amino
  • compositions additionally contain one or more C 12 -C 30 -fatty alcohols in a minimum amount of 15.0% by weight.
  • the agent preferably contains one or more C 12 -C 30 fatty alcohols in a total amount of at least 15.0% by weight.
  • the basis of calculation for the amounts of the fatty alcohols (d) here is the total amount of all Ci2-C3o fatty alcohols containing in the middle, which is related to the total amount of the agent.
  • Ci2-C3o-fatty alcohol in the context of the present invention is understood to mean a Ci2-C3o-alkanol or a Ci2-C3o-alkenol, that is a saturated or unsaturated Ci2-C3o-alkyl chain which is substituted by a hydroxy group.
  • the substitution of the alkyl chain by the hydroxy group can be carried out at the end of the alkyl chain or in the middle part of the alkyl chain.
  • the (saturated or unsaturated) alkyl chain is terminally substituted by a hydroxy group.
  • Ci2-C3o-alkyl chain may be linear or branched.
  • Preferred C 12 -C 30 fatty alcohols (d) are selected from the group consisting of
  • Hexadecyl alcohol cetyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol (hexadecan-1-ol),
  • mixtures of C 12 -C 30 fatty alcohols for example a mixture of C 12 -C 16 -fatty alcohols, C 16 -C 18 -fatty alcohols, C 12 -C 18 -fatty alcohols C 18 -C 24 -fatty alcohol or C 20 -22 fatty alcohols.
  • the one or more C 12 -C 30 fatty alcohols are preferably present in a total amount of at least 15.0% by weight in the middle.
  • a minimum amount of 15.0% by weight in this context means that 100 g of the composition contains a total amount of at least 15.0 g of one or more C12-C30 fatty alcohols. It is preferred if the total amount of C 12 -C 30 fatty alcohols is at most 60.0% by weight, more preferably 30.0% by weight.
  • Ci2-C3o-fatty alcohols leads to a further, strong increase in the gloss of the keratinic fibers.
  • the best results can be obtained if one or more fatty alcohols are used in a total amount of from 15.0 to 60.0% by weight, preferably from 16.0 to 40.0% by weight. Particularly advantageous are amounts of from 17.0 to 30.0 wt .-%.
  • long-chain and short-chain fatty alcohols can be distinguished.
  • short-chain fatty alcohols are understood as meaning fatty alcohols having 12 to 16 carbon atoms.
  • Long-chain fatty alcohols are fatty alcohols with at least 18 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty alcohols having a chain length of 18 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred.
  • compositions contain both short-chain and long-chain fatty alcohols in specific quantitative ranges.
  • hair conditioning compounds may preferably be included in the compositions.
  • Hair conditioning compounds have, for example due to cationic or cationizable groups, in particular protonated amine groups or quaternary ammonium groups, a substantivity to human hair.
  • Particularly preferred hair conditioning compounds are cationic and / or amphoteric polymers such as
  • the agents may be formulated as single-component agents or as multi-component agents such as two-component agents or three-component agents and used accordingly. Separation into multicomponent systems is particularly useful where incompatibilities exist the ingredients are to be expected or feared; the agent to be used in such systems is manufactured by the consumer just prior to use by mixing the component.
  • the agent for changing the color of keratinic fibers is always understood to mean the ready-to-use agent.
  • the agent is made available to the user in the form of a one-component agent, then the ready-to-use agent does not have to be prepared first but can be taken directly from the container in which it was made up and applied to the keratinic fibers.
  • Bleaching agents are usually two-component products in which an oxidizing agent-containing component (A1) is mixed with an (alkalizing) agent (A2) shortly before use and this ready-to-use mixture is applied to the hair.
  • the agent is the ready-to-use agent which was prepared shortly before use by mixing (A1) and (A2).
  • the nonionic substantive dye (a) and / or the polyol (b) in the component (A1) (that is, together with the oxidizing agent) or in the component (A2) (together with the alkalizing agent) are made up.
  • the ready-to-use agent is prepared shortly before application to human hair by mixing 3 components, wherein
  • component (A1) comprises at least one nonionic substantive dye (a),
  • the component (A2) at least one first oxidizing agent (for example hydrogen peroxide) and
  • Component (A3) contains at least one second oxidizing agent (for example one or more peroxodisulfate salts).
  • the polyol (b) may be compounded in the component (A1) and / or (A2) and / or (A3).
  • the combination of one or more nonionic substantive dyes with at least one polyol can increase the gloss of keratinic fibers during the dyeing of the fibers and increase the color lift of the dye (s). Also, an improved gray coverage is achieved.
  • Another object of the present invention is therefore the use of an agent contained in a cosmetic carrier
  • the means of the subject invention can be used in methods for dyeing human hair.
  • Another object of the present invention is therefore a method
  • hair strands were measured colorimetrically (spectral flask SF 450 colorimetric device from Datacolor). Subsequently, the ready-to-use dyeing formulations prepared as described above were applied to the hair strands and left there at room temperature for 30 minutes. The hair strands were then rinsed thoroughly and dried in a stream of air. After dyeing and drying, the hair strands were again measured colorimetrically. According to the following formula, the color difference ( ⁇ ) between undyed and dyed streak was calculated:
  • the gray coverage can be determined according to the following procedure: A graying and a non-graying strand of hair are measured colorimetrically before staining and after staining (determination of the Lab values). From these values, the gray coverage index is calculated in%.
  • the previously prepared dyeing formulations were applied to each of the two hairs (liquor ratio 4: 1, 4 g of cream per g of hair) and allowed to act for 30 minutes. Thereafter, the strands of hair were rinsed and dried. The dyed and dried strands of hair were measured colorimetrically a second time.
  • the gray coverage index was determined according to the following formula:

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Abstract

L'invention concerne un agent de coloration de fibres kératiniques, en particulier de cheveux humains, contenant dans un excipient cosmétique (a) au moins un colorant non ionique de coloration directe et (b) au moins 0,1 %.en poids d'un ou de plusieurs polyols, rapporté à la totalité de l'agent de coloration.
EP16708967.1A 2015-03-12 2016-03-03 Agent de coloration pour fibres kératiniques comprenant un colorant sélectionné et un ou des polyols Ceased EP3267966A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102015204471.8A DE102015204471A1 (de) 2015-03-12 2015-03-12 Färbemittel für keratinische Fasern mit ausgewähltem Farbstoff und Polyol
PCT/EP2016/054557 WO2016142269A1 (fr) 2015-03-12 2016-03-03 Agent de coloration pour fibres kératiniques comprenant un colorant sélectionné et un ou des polyols

Publications (1)

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EP3267966A1 true EP3267966A1 (fr) 2018-01-17

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EP16708967.1A Ceased EP3267966A1 (fr) 2015-03-12 2016-03-03 Agent de coloration pour fibres kératiniques comprenant un colorant sélectionné et un ou des polyols

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Country Link
US (1) US10322075B2 (fr)
EP (1) EP3267966A1 (fr)
DE (1) DE102015204471A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2016142269A1 (fr)

Families Citing this family (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102015219754A1 (de) * 2015-10-13 2017-04-13 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Haarfärbemittel mit kationischem Polymer
WO2021055014A1 (fr) * 2019-09-20 2021-03-25 President And Fellows Of Harvard College Méthodes et compositions permettant de réduire le grisonnement des cheveux

Family Cites Families (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE2151131A1 (de) * 1971-10-14 1973-04-19 Joh Andre Sebald Gmbh Kosmetische frisierlotion
DE19708497A1 (de) * 1997-03-03 1998-09-10 Schwarzkopf Gmbh Hans Mittel und Verfahren zum Färben und Tönen keratinischer Fasern
DE102004036688A1 (de) 2004-07-28 2006-03-23 Henkel Kgaa Kationische Azoverbindungen als direktziehende Farbstoffe zur Färbung keratinischer Fasern
DE202008016408U1 (de) 2008-12-12 2009-03-19 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Neue Farbstoffvorproduktkombinationen
EP2468248A1 (fr) * 2010-12-27 2012-06-27 KPSS-Kao Professional Salon Services GmbH Utilisation de colorants pour colorer des fibres en kératine et compositions comportant les colorants
DE102012216606A1 (de) * 2012-09-18 2014-03-20 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Mittel zum Behandeln keratinischer Fasern, enthaltend spezifische Aminosilikone, Säuren und direktziehende Farbstoffe

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US20180235856A1 (en) 2018-08-23
US10322075B2 (en) 2019-06-18
WO2016142269A1 (fr) 2016-09-15
DE102015204471A1 (de) 2016-09-15

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