EP3246766B1 - Procédé de fabrication d'une piece d'horlogerie dotée d'un élément d'habillage en relief - Google Patents

Procédé de fabrication d'une piece d'horlogerie dotée d'un élément d'habillage en relief Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3246766B1
EP3246766B1 EP16170378.0A EP16170378A EP3246766B1 EP 3246766 B1 EP3246766 B1 EP 3246766B1 EP 16170378 A EP16170378 A EP 16170378A EP 3246766 B1 EP3246766 B1 EP 3246766B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
substrate
metal layer
layer
insulating layer
pattern
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Active
Application number
EP16170378.0A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP3246766A1 (fr
Inventor
Pascal Grossenbacher
Stewes Bourban
Pierry Vuille
Yves Winkler
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Swatch Group Research and Development SA
Original Assignee
Swatch Group Research and Development SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Swatch Group Research and Development SA filed Critical Swatch Group Research and Development SA
Priority to EP16170378.0A priority Critical patent/EP3246766B1/fr
Priority to CH00646/16A priority patent/CH712474A2/fr
Priority to JP2017089534A priority patent/JP6310595B2/ja
Priority to US15/591,138 priority patent/US11027574B2/en
Priority to CN201710352353.1A priority patent/CN107402513B/zh
Publication of EP3246766A1 publication Critical patent/EP3246766A1/fr
Priority to HK18105942.8A priority patent/HK1246413A1/zh
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP3246766B1 publication Critical patent/EP3246766B1/fr
Active legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

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Classifications

    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B37/00—Cases
    • G04B37/22—Materials or processes of manufacturing pocket watch or wrist watch cases
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04D—APPARATUS OR TOOLS SPECIALLY DESIGNED FOR MAKING OR MAINTAINING CLOCKS OR WATCHES
    • G04D3/00—Watchmakers' or watch-repairers' machines or tools for working materials
    • G04D3/0002—Watchmakers' or watch-repairers' machines or tools for working materials for mechanical working other than with a lathe
    • G04D3/0043—Watchmakers' or watch-repairers' machines or tools for working materials for mechanical working other than with a lathe for components of the time-indicating mechanisms
    • G04D3/0048—Watchmakers' or watch-repairers' machines or tools for working materials for mechanical working other than with a lathe for components of the time-indicating mechanisms for dials
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B44—DECORATIVE ARTS
    • B44C—PRODUCING DECORATIVE EFFECTS; MOSAICS; TARSIA WORK; PAPERHANGING
    • B44C1/00—Processes, not specifically provided for elsewhere, for producing decorative surface effects
    • B44C1/10—Applying flat materials, e.g. leaflets, pieces of fabrics
    • B44C1/14—Metallic leaves or foils, e.g. gold leaf
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B44—DECORATIVE ARTS
    • B44C—PRODUCING DECORATIVE EFFECTS; MOSAICS; TARSIA WORK; PAPERHANGING
    • B44C1/00—Processes, not specifically provided for elsewhere, for producing decorative surface effects
    • B44C1/24—Pressing or stamping ornamental designs on surfaces
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C25—ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PROCESSES; APPARATUS THEREFOR
    • C25D—PROCESSES FOR THE ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PRODUCTION OF COATINGS; ELECTROFORMING; APPARATUS THEREFOR
    • C25D1/00—Electroforming
    • C25D1/10—Moulds; Masks; Masterforms
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C25—ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PROCESSES; APPARATUS THEREFOR
    • C25D—PROCESSES FOR THE ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PRODUCTION OF COATINGS; ELECTROFORMING; APPARATUS THEREFOR
    • C25D5/00—Electroplating characterised by the process; Pretreatment or after-treatment of workpieces
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B19/00—Indicating the time by visual means
    • G04B19/04—Hands; Discs with a single mark or the like
    • G04B19/042—Construction and manufacture of the hands; arrangements for increasing reading accuracy
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B19/00—Indicating the time by visual means
    • G04B19/06—Dials
    • G04B19/10—Ornamental shape of the graduations or the surface of the dial; Attachment of the graduations to the dial
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B19/00—Indicating the time by visual means
    • G04B19/06—Dials
    • G04B19/12—Selection of materials for dials or graduations markings
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B19/00—Indicating the time by visual means
    • G04B19/06—Dials
    • G04B19/18—Graduations on the crystal or glass, on the bezel, or on the rim
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B19/00—Indicating the time by visual means
    • G04B19/28—Adjustable guide marks or pointers for indicating determined points of time
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B45/00—Time pieces of which the indicating means or cases provoke special effects, e.g. aesthetic effects
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C27/00—Making jewellery or other personal adornments

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a method of manufacturing a piece such as a timepiece, a piece of jewelry or a piece of jewelry, for example a watch dial, a bezel, a bracelet, etc.
  • the method more particularly makes it possible to produce a covering element on said piece, such as an hour indicator, a decorative element, etc.
  • a watch dial comprising through T-shaped through openings. Then, a mask is affixed to the dial. The mask has openings arranged to communicate with the openings in the dial. Then, the openings are filled, by electroplating, by pressing of an amorphous material or by injection of metal, so as to form covering elements. Finally, the thickness of the filling material protruding from the mask is removed, and the mask is removed.
  • a drawback of this process is that it does not make it possible to produce covering elements formed integrally with the dial, the dial being covered with a layer of different color in order to produce the desired two-tone appearance.
  • Another drawback is the limitation in the shape of the covering elements.
  • the method does not make it possible to form covering elements which are raised relative to the dial, i.e. elements whose underside (the face facing the dial) is not fully pressed against the dial, that is to say covering elements comprising a head surmounting a narrower part, the part narrow being linked to the dial.
  • Another drawback is that the method does not make it possible to produce covering elements with textured heads, for example guilloche.
  • Another drawback is that the method does not make it possible to produce covering elements formed from a non-metallic material.
  • the purpose of the present invention is to overcome all or part of the drawbacks mentioned above.
  • the method according to the first embodiment makes it possible to manufacture a part provided with a relief covering element.
  • This dressing element consists of the portion of the volume filling the pattern at the end of the covering step, it is therefore impossible to separate the covering element from the part.
  • the covering element is of shape corresponding to the imprint of the pattern, it is understood that the recess can take any desired shape.
  • the covering element is the color of the base material of the part, which forms a contrast with the color of the metallic layer arranged around the covering element.
  • the part formed by the method according to the second embodiment differs from the part formed by the method according to the first embodiment in that the covering element has a recess, that is to say an elevation, by compared to the metallic layer.
  • the metal layer is curved around the covering element.
  • the periphery of the lower face of the covering element rests on the metal layer in the first embodiment, which is not the case in the second embodiment. All this gives different aesthetic aspects to the two rooms.
  • the manufacturing method according to the first or second embodiment may include one or more of the characteristics below, according to all technically possible combinations.
  • the pattern comprises a background having a texture, for example a guilloche.
  • the base material is an amorphous metal or a polymer
  • the covering step being carried out by pressing a block of base material on the assembly comprising the substrate and the metal layer.
  • the base material is metallic, the covering step being carried out by galvanic growth of the base material on the assembly comprising the substrate and the layer metallic.
  • the metal layer consists of gold, silver or nickel.
  • the insulating layer consists of resin.
  • the method according to the invention comprises the following steps.
  • an electrically conductive substrate SB also called master in the molding environment.
  • the SB substrate is advantageously made of brass, but can be made of another material, for example stainless steel, aluminum, nickel, a cermet composite, a ceramic or a rendered polymer. conductor (by electrolytic deposition or plasma treatment for example), etc.
  • the substrate SB comprises a hollow pattern MT opening onto an upper surface SP of the substrate SB. In one embodiment, the pattern MT was obtained by machining the substrate SB.
  • the pattern MT has a flat bottom ST extending parallel to the upper surface SP of the substrate SB, and flanks FC extending substantially orthogonally to said bottom ST, but this shape is not limiting.
  • the flanks FC could be inclined relative to the upper surface SP at an angle ⁇ ′ less than 90 °, the bottom ST could not be entirely parallel to the upper surface SP, etc.
  • the upper surface SP of the substrate SB and the bottom ST of the pattern MT have optionally undergone surface machining to create a particular texture that one wishes to give to the part, for example a guillochis, as seen on the figure 1a .
  • an insulating layer CI is deposited in the pattern MT, up to the level of the upper surface SP.
  • the deposition step Md_Cis is for example carried out by baking a resin in viscous form deposited in the pattern MT.
  • the excess is removed by surfacing.
  • this surfacing also makes it possible to create or recreate a texture at the level of the upper surface SP.
  • a metal layer CM is deposited on the upper surface SP (electrically conductive) of the substrate SB by galvanic growth.
  • the substrate SB and the insulating layer CI are thus immersed in a galvanic bath suitable for the deposition of a metal such as gold, silver, nickel, or any other metal or metal alloy which can be deposited in a relatively thick layer.
  • the metal deposit grows not only orthogonally to the upper surface SP, but also laterally, that is to say in the direction of the insulating layer CI.
  • the metal layer CM therefore comprises lateral ends EL which rest on the insulating layer CI.
  • the metal layer CM is machined to reduce its thickness E and / or structure or polish its surface.
  • step Md_Dis shown at figure 1d , the insulating layer CI is dissolved. There then remains only an assembly ES formed by the substrate SB and the metal layer CM.
  • a surface treatment of this ES assembly is carried out.
  • This treatment is for example the application of a release agent or a passivation treatment.
  • the interest of this step appears in the following text.
  • this assembly ES is covered with a volume VL of a base material of the part to be manufactured, so that the volume VL forms an imprint of the assembly ES.
  • the base material is amorphous or partially amorphous metal, which is advantageous for its mechanical properties.
  • the base material is a polymer. In these two cases, a block of amorphous or partially amorphous metal, or of polymer, is pressed on the ES assembly at a temperature at which it has a pasty consistency, which allows it to deform to conform to the shapes of the ES assembly, and in particular those of the metallic layer CM and of the pattern MT.
  • the base material is any other metal or metal alloy, for example nickel, gold, etc., and the covering is carried out by galvanic growth of said metal.
  • the volume VL of basic material has a portion EH of a shape corresponding to the imprint of the pattern MT, as well as a narrow portion BA corresponding to the filling of the space between the lateral ends EL of the metal layer CM.
  • the volume VL of base material and the metal layer CM are separated from the substrate SB.
  • the substrate SB is for example immersed in a selective acid bath in which it is dissolved.
  • the separation is carried out by demolding by force. Having previously carried out a surface treatment of the ES assembly then facilitates demolding.
  • the volume VL of base material has a covering element EH in relief of shape corresponding to the imprint of the pattern MT, and an upper face SF covered with the metallic layer CM.
  • the metal layer CM extends on either side of the narrow portion BA, between the upper face SF of the volume VL and a lower face FF of the covering element EH. It is noted that the entire lower face FF of the covering element EH is in contact with the layer metallic CM: the lower face FF of the covering element is an extension of the upper surface of the metallic layer CM.
  • the method according to the invention comprises the steps Md_Sub to Md_Cis previously described, followed by the following steps.
  • an intermediate metallic layer CT is deposited on the upper surface SP (metallic) of the substrate SB by galvanic growth.
  • the substrate SB and the insulating layer CI are thus immersed in a galvanic bath suitable for the deposition of a metal such as nickel.
  • the metal deposit grows not only orthogonally to the upper surface SP, but also laterally, that is to say in the direction of the insulating layer CI.
  • the intermediate layer CT therefore comprises lateral ends EL "which rest on the insulating layer CI.
  • a metallic layer CM ′ is deposited on the intermediate layer CT (metallic) by galvanic growth.
  • the metal is for example gold or silver, but can be any other metal or metal alloy which can be deposited in a relatively thick layer.
  • the metal layer CM ' covers the intermediate layer CT.
  • the metal layer CM ′ therefore comprises lateral ends EL ′ which cover the lateral ends EL ′′ of the intermediate layer CT, and which rest on the insulating layer CI.
  • the metal layer CM ' is machined to reduce its thickness E' and / or structure or polish its surface.
  • step Md'_Dis shown at figure 2c , the insulating layer CI is dissolved. There then remains only an assembly ES ′ formed of the substrate SB, of the intermediate layer CT and of the metal layer CM ′.
  • a surface treatment of this set ES ′ is carried out.
  • This treatment is for example the application of an oil or a passivation.
  • the interest of this step appears in the following text.
  • the assembly ES ' is covered with a volume VL' of a base material of the part to be manufactured, so that the volume VL forms an imprint of the assembly ES.
  • the base material is amorphous metal, which is advantageous for its mechanical properties.
  • the base material is a polymer. In these two cases, a block of amorphous or partially amorphous metal or of polymer is pressed onto the assembly ES 'at a temperature at which it has a pasty consistency, which allows it to deform to conform to the shapes of the assembly. ES ', and in particular that of the MT motif.
  • the base material is any other metal, for example nickel, gold, etc., and the covering is carried out by galvanic growth of said metal.
  • the volume VL 'of base material has a portion EH' of a shape corresponding to the imprint of the pattern MT, as well as a narrow portion BA ' corresponding to the filling of the space between the lateral ends EL 'of the metal layer CM'.
  • the volume VL ′ of base material, the intermediate layer CT and the metal layer CM ′ are separated from the substrate SB.
  • the substrate SB is for example immersed in a selective acid bath in which it is dissolved.
  • the separation is carried out by demolding by force. Having previously carried out a surface treatment of the ES 'assembly then makes it easier to demold.
  • the intermediate layer CT is dissolved.
  • the volume VL 'of base material then has a covering element EH' in relief of shape corresponding to the imprint of the pattern MT, and an upper face SF 'covered with the metallic layer CM'.
  • the metal layer CM ′ extends on either side of the narrow portion BA, matching the curved shape of said narrow portion BA. Only a part of the lower face FF of the covering element EH 'is in contact with the metal layer CM', contrary to what is the case in the first embodiment.
  • the first and the second embodiment therefore make it possible to manufacture a PC, PC 'two-color part comprising a covering element EH, EH' in relief, the color transition between the base material and the metallic layer CM, CM 'being net.
  • the covering element EH, EH ' cannot be separated from the rest of the part PC, PC' because it is an integral part of the volume VL, VL 'of base material.
  • the upper surface SP of the substrate SB and the background ST of the pattern MT may have previously undergone surface machining to create a particular texture, for example a guilloche. In this case, by impression effect, the metal layer CM, CM 'and the head of the covering element EH, EH' also have this texture.
  • the metal layer CM, CM ' is dissolved.
  • the narrow portion BA, BA ' is then visible from the outside, making a different aesthetic appearance.

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  • Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • General Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
  • Electrochemistry (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • Materials Engineering (AREA)
  • Metallurgy (AREA)
  • Organic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Manufacturing Of Printed Wiring (AREA)
  • Laminated Bodies (AREA)
  • Adornments (AREA)
  • Electroplating Methods And Accessories (AREA)
EP16170378.0A 2016-05-19 2016-05-19 Procédé de fabrication d'une piece d'horlogerie dotée d'un élément d'habillage en relief Active EP3246766B1 (fr)

Priority Applications (6)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP16170378.0A EP3246766B1 (fr) 2016-05-19 2016-05-19 Procédé de fabrication d'une piece d'horlogerie dotée d'un élément d'habillage en relief
CH00646/16A CH712474A2 (fr) 2016-05-19 2016-05-19 Procédé de fabrication d'une pièce pour l'horlogerie dotée d'un élément d'habillage en relief.
JP2017089534A JP6310595B2 (ja) 2016-05-19 2017-04-28 隆起した外側要素を有する計時器を製造する方法
US15/591,138 US11027574B2 (en) 2016-05-19 2017-05-10 Process for the production of a timepiece provided with a raised external element
CN201710352353.1A CN107402513B (zh) 2016-05-19 2017-05-18 设置有凸起的外部元件的钟表的制造方法
HK18105942.8A HK1246413A1 (zh) 2016-05-19 2018-05-08 設置有凸起的外部元件的鐘錶的製造方法

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP16170378.0A EP3246766B1 (fr) 2016-05-19 2016-05-19 Procédé de fabrication d'une piece d'horlogerie dotée d'un élément d'habillage en relief

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3246766A1 EP3246766A1 (fr) 2017-11-22
EP3246766B1 true EP3246766B1 (fr) 2020-01-29

Family

ID=56024183

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP16170378.0A Active EP3246766B1 (fr) 2016-05-19 2016-05-19 Procédé de fabrication d'une piece d'horlogerie dotée d'un élément d'habillage en relief

Country Status (6)

Country Link
US (1) US11027574B2 (ja)
EP (1) EP3246766B1 (ja)
JP (1) JP6310595B2 (ja)
CN (1) CN107402513B (ja)
CH (1) CH712474A2 (ja)
HK (1) HK1246413A1 (ja)

Families Citing this family (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP3674817A1 (fr) * 2018-12-24 2020-07-01 Meco S.A. Procede de fabrication d'un article decoratif
EP3951512B1 (fr) 2020-08-04 2023-03-01 Comadur S.A. Procede de fabrication d'une piece comprenant au moins un motif metallise en trois dimensions

Family Cites Families (11)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN1899002A (zh) * 2003-12-26 2007-01-17 三井金属矿业株式会社 印刷电路板、其制造方法以及电路装置
DE102008034616A1 (de) * 2008-07-25 2010-02-04 Leonhard Kurz Stiftung & Co. Kg Prägefolie und deren Verwendung sowie Verfahren zur Herstellung von Strukturelementen aus Kupfer
EP2182096A1 (fr) * 2008-10-28 2010-05-05 Nivarox-FAR S.A. Procédé LIGA hétérogène
EP2192454A1 (fr) * 2008-11-28 2010-06-02 The Swatch Group Research and Development Ltd. Procédé de décoration tridimensionnelle
EP2383244A1 (fr) 2010-04-23 2011-11-02 Omega SA Elément céramique incrusté d'au moins un décor métallique
US8354729B2 (en) * 2010-12-27 2013-01-15 Industrial Technology Research Institute Gas sensor and manufacturing method thereof
EP2549341A1 (fr) * 2011-07-20 2013-01-23 The Swatch Group Research and Development Ltd. Procédé pour implanter un décor dans un élément d'habillage horloger déposé par galvanoplastie et élément d'habillage réalisé selon ce procédé
EP2549340B1 (fr) * 2011-07-20 2018-09-19 The Swatch Group Research and Development Ltd. Procédé pour fixer une garniture sur un élément d'habillage horloger et élément d'habillage réalisé selon ce procédé
JP2015026771A (ja) * 2013-07-29 2015-02-05 株式会社フジクラ 回路基板の製造方法
EP3231898B1 (en) * 2014-12-12 2019-10-09 Citizen Watch Co., Ltd. Method for manufacturing electroformed components
EP3035125B1 (fr) * 2014-12-19 2018-01-10 Rolex Sa Procédé de fabrication d'un composant horloger multi-niveaux

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
None *

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
HK1246413A1 (zh) 2018-09-07
US11027574B2 (en) 2021-06-08
EP3246766A1 (fr) 2017-11-22
CN107402513A (zh) 2017-11-28
CN107402513B (zh) 2020-04-10
JP2017207479A (ja) 2017-11-24
US20170334236A1 (en) 2017-11-23
JP6310595B2 (ja) 2018-04-11
CH712474A2 (fr) 2017-11-30

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