EP3166576B1 - Composition cosmétique - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3166576B1
EP3166576B1 EP15734178.5A EP15734178A EP3166576B1 EP 3166576 B1 EP3166576 B1 EP 3166576B1 EP 15734178 A EP15734178 A EP 15734178A EP 3166576 B1 EP3166576 B1 EP 3166576B1
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EP
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Prior art keywords
dye
weight
silicate
powder
cosmetic composition
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EP15734178.5A
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German (de)
English (en)
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EP3166576A1 (fr
Inventor
Patrizia Valsesia
Gaetano Distefano
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Intercos SpA
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Intercos Italiana SpA
Intercos SpA
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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
    • A61K8/022—Powders; Compacted Powders
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26—Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/466—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4946—Imidazoles or their condensed derivatives, e.g. benzimidazoles
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A61K8/8182—Copolymers of vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/85—Polyesters
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/927—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of insects, e.g. shellac
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/98—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin
    • A61K8/987—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin of species other than mammals or birds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/08—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for cheeks, e.g. rouge
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous solution and a powder portion; the present invention further relates to said powder portion, to methods of preparation thereof and to its use in said cosmetic composition.
  • Such cosmetic products can be produced in a wide range of colors according to the user's needs.
  • dyes are usually used which are soluble and/or insoluble in the medium but dispersible therein, such as pigments and lakes.
  • Pigments mainly consist of inorganic salts or oxides and such materials can be optically transparent (white pigments) or with absorption of a part of the visible spectrum (colored pigments).
  • a particular category are pearly reflections pigments in which, depending on the composition, the light can be absorbed or not by a colored component (e.g. iron oxides) and can be reflected in all or some spectral components due to a thin-film interference from a transparent oxide deposited on an inert sheet (e.g. mica).
  • a colored component e.g. iron oxides
  • Such pigments are generally used in decorative products for the face and the area around the eyes (powder and eye shadows) and in other powder preparations.
  • Lakes typically consist of water-soluble salts of organic dyes precipitated on inorganic supports (e.g. alumina, barium sulfate, etc.); such salts formed by a precipitation reaction are often used in cosmetics.
  • inorganic supports e.g. alumina, barium sulfate, etc.
  • lakes typically offer a brighter and more intense color compared to inorganic pigments and a fair stability and for this they are widely used in cosmetics.
  • solubility of organic lakes which in any case is not null at room temperature and neutral pH, increases in the presence of high temperatures and/or basic or acid pH and/or in the presence of other solutes (e.g. salts dissociated in water, such as NaCl), causing the staining of the aqueous phase, with the generation of a solution of the dye compound dissociated in water.
  • solutes e.g. salts dissociated in water, such as NaCl
  • Such an effect can cause an unsightly skin staining due to the absorption of the dye into the epidermis when the cosmetic containing the lake is applied, making it difficult to remove it, if not mechanically, and with aggressive and irritating solvents.
  • EP 1226811A1 refers to a solid light and mouldable cosmetic product in particular for make-up.
  • the cosmetic product is subjected to an aqueous dispersion and drying processes to obtain the cosmetic powders.
  • US 6143280A discloses a method of adhering dye to a silica.
  • the method comprises providing a silica slurry, which includes a plurality of silica particles, depositing alum in the pores of the silica particles, reacting a base with the alum to convert the alum into aluminum hydroxide resulting in treated silica particles.
  • the main difficulty to devise the solution proposed herein therefore is to find a raw material already usable in the cosmetic field but with more features, and "change" the use thereof to make it fit for the purpose.
  • phyllosilicates, or layered silicates are known in the art as rheology modifiers or as thickening agents, i.e. which are able to impart a semi-solid gel structure to oils or water by modifying the rheological behavior, for example by increasing the viscosity of emulsions and thereby facilitating the application thereof. Based on the amount of rheology modifier added to the liquid, the final product will be more or less consistent.
  • a powder composition consisting of one powder portion serving as a substrate (e.g. natural or synthetic talc or mica sheets) on which a powder portion layer is evenly applied with good adhesion, able to selectively capture and immobilize the organic dye when this is present in aqueous environment.
  • a cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous solution and a powder portion comprising a dye, where such a powder portion is able to selectively capture and immobilize the dye released when said powder portion comes into contact with an aqueous solution, thus preventing the color migration.
  • It is a sixth object of the present invention to obtain a cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous solution and a powder portion comprising a dye, where such a powder portion, before coming into contact with said aqueous solution of the cosmetic composition, has already been in contact with an aqueous solution so as to selectively capture and immobilize the dye released from said powder portion, thus preventing the color migration.
  • the present invention relates to a colored powder cosmetic composition as defined in claim 1.
  • a colored powder cosmetic composition comprising at least one natural or synthetic silicate and at least one dye, where said at least one silicate is able to absorb the water-soluble portion of said dye released from the dye itself when it is in contact with an aqueous solution, is able to prevent the above migration phenomenon.
  • silicate means the class of (natural or synthetic) inorganic compounds mainly consisting of silicon and oxygen and based on anionic tetrahedral units of the [SiO 4 ] 4- type organized according to variable architectures and the charge of which is neutralized by metal cations.
  • Such tetrahedral units can remain isolated (as in the so-called nesosilicate) or, by sharing oxygen atoms, connect to form structures of various types, as in soro-, cyclo-, ino-, phyllo- or tecto-silicates: the substitution of (tetravalent) silicon atoms with (trivalent) aluminum atoms allows the entry of positive ions in the framework, such as, e.g., in tectosilicates.
  • the phyllosilicate also called layered silicate
  • the phyllosilicates have a lamellar or scaly appearance, with well-defined flaking.
  • the phyllosilicates are based on indefinitely flanking extended chains of tetrahedrons [SiO 4 ] 4- , joined together, on the same plane, to form layers which are repeated regularly along the direction perpendicular to the plane itself.
  • Phyllosilicates may be of natural origin, i.e. extracted from rocks present in natural environments, or they may be obtained through chemical synthesis starting from inorganic precursors (sol-gel or hydrothermal synthesis).
  • Such phyllosilicates can be further modified by including organic compounds within the structure which give them an oleophilic character.
  • Said at least one natural or synthetic phyllosilicate is a sepiolite, hectorite, montmorillonite, bentonite-based phyllosilicate or mixtures thereof.
  • the phyllosilicate comprises a quaternary salt of sepiolite, hectorite, montmorillonite, bentonite or mixtures thereof.
  • Suitable quaternary salts may be, for example, ammonium, disteardimonium, stearalkonium, phosphonium, arsonium, benzalkonium, cetrimonium, pyridinium, tiazonium salts and the like.
  • said at least one natural or synthetic phyllosilicate is a phyllosilicate which comprises stearalkonium bentonite and/or hectorite.
  • modified phyllosilicate oleophils useful for the present invention are benzalkonium montmorillonite (available from Southern Clay Products under the trade name Garamite R 7305 (mixture)), quaternium-90 montmorillonite (available from Southern Clay Products under the trade name Garamite R 7303 (mixture)), disteardimonium hectorite (available from Element Specialities under the trade name Bentone R 38 V), stearalkonium hectorite (available from Element Specialities under the trade name Bentone R V 27), benzalkonium sepiolite (available from Southern Clay Products under the trade name Garamite R 7305 (mixture)), quaternio-90 sepiolite (available from Southern Clay Products under the trade name Garamite R 7303 (mixture)), stearalkonium bentonite (available from Southern Clay Products under the trade names of Claytone AF, Garamite R VT, Tixogel R LG, Tixogel R LG-
  • the term "dye” shall mean any ingredient capable of imparting color to the formulation.
  • Dyes can be distinguished in pure dyes soluble in water (water-soluble) and insoluble in water.
  • Water-soluble dyes are mainly soluble salts of organic dyes or organic dyes with polar groups.
  • Water-insoluble dyes are referred to as pigments; pigments are further subdivided into inorganic pigments (e.g. iron oxides, titanium dioxide, dichromium trioxide, ferric ferrocyanide, etc.) and organic pigments (water insoluble salts of organic chromophores).
  • inorganic pigments e.g. iron oxides, titanium dioxide, dichromium trioxide, ferric ferrocyanide, etc.
  • organic pigments water insoluble salts of organic chromophores
  • Particular types of organic pigments useful for the present invention are lakes, constituted starting from said pure water-soluble dyes precipitated as insoluble salts on insoluble inorganic substrates, such as for example on talc, aluminum hydrate, calcium carbonate, sulphate barium substrates, and the like.
  • Such lakes when such substrates are precipitated on such insoluble inorganic substrates, form insoluble products with pigmentary properties, that is, they color by "contact” dispersing in the application medium.
  • lakes possess a better resistance to light and their coloring strength depends on the degree of fineness of the particles: the higher the degree of grinding, the higher the coloring strength and the smaller the amount of product to use.
  • pigments useful for the present invention are the so-called “beads”, which are pearlescent pigments consisting of crystals in the form of thin flakes, with high refractive index, particularly used in decorative cosmetics.
  • Such pearlescent pigments have a core of mica, or aluminum and potassium silicate, on which titanium dioxide and optionally metal oxides are layered/deposited. Varying the titanium dioxide thickness gives beads of different grain size and more or less colored and opaque reflections.
  • Examples of pure water-soluble dyes particularly useful for the purposes of the present invention are those selected from the group comprising Yellow 5 ( CAS # 1934-21-0 ), Yellow 6 ( CAS # 2783-94-0 ), Yellow 7 ( CAS # 2321-07-5 ), Yellow 8 ( CAS # 518-47-8 ), Yellow 10 ( CAS # 8004-92-0 ), Orange 4 ( CAS # 633-96-5 ), Red 4 ( CAS # 4548-53-2 ), Red 22 ( CAS # 17372-87-1 , 548-26-5), Red 28 ( CAS # 18472-87-2 ), Red 33 ( CAS # 3567-66-6 ), Red 36 ( CAS # 2814-77-9 ), Red 40 ( CAS # 25956-17-6 ), Cochineal ( CAS # 1343-78-8 ), Blue 1 ( CAS # 3844-45-9 ), Ext. Violet 2 ( CAS # 4430-18-6 ), Green 3 ( CAS # 2353-45-9 ), Green 5 ( CAS # 4403-90-1
  • non water-soluble organic pigments extended on inorganic supports are those selected from the group comprising Yellow 5 Lake, Yellow 6 Lake ( CAS # 15790-07-5 ), Yellow 7 Lake, Yellow 10 Lake ( CAS # 68814-04-0 ), Orange 4 Lake, Red 4 Lake, Red 22 Lake, Red 28 Lake, Red 33 Lake, Red 36 Lake), Red 40 Lake ( CAS # 84455-18-5 ), Carmine ( CAS # 1390-65-4 ), Blue 1 Lake ( CAS # 15792-67-3 , 68921-42-6), e Green 3 Lake.
  • said powder cosmetic composition comprises particles having an average size ⁇ 150 ⁇ m, more preferably ⁇ 50 ⁇ m, even more preferably ⁇ 5 ⁇ m.
  • Said colored powder cosmetic composition comprises at least one silicate, preferably a natural or synthetic phyllosilicate in an amount from 50% to 90% by weight, more preferably from 55% by weight to 85% by weight, even more preferably from 60% by weight to 80% by weight and most preferably from 65% by weight to 75% by weight, and at least one dye preferably in an amount from 10% to 50% by weight, more preferably from 15% to 45% by weight, even more preferably from 20% to 40% by weight and most preferably from 25% to 35% by weight.
  • silicate preferably a natural or synthetic phyllosilicate in an amount from 50% to 90% by weight, more preferably from 55% by weight to 85% by weight, even more preferably from 60% by weight to 80% by weight and most preferably from 65% by weight to 75% by weight
  • at least one dye preferably in an amount from 10% to 50% by weight, more preferably from 15% to 45% by weight, even more preferably from 20% to 40% by weight and most preferably from 25% to 35% by weight.
  • said powder cosmetic composition further comprises at least one portion of cosmetic excipient, selected from the group comprising, for example, sericite (which is a silicate of aluminum and potassium, also called natural mica), fluorophlogopite (also called synthetic mica), borosilicate, talc, boron nitride, silica, alumina, etc. More preferably, said cosmetic excipient is natural mica or synthetic mica.
  • said colored powder cosmetic composition according to the first aspect of the present invention may be used in any anhydrous product used in cosmetics, such as in a powder, face powder, blusher, pencil and the like.
  • said colored powder cosmetic composition is obtained by the dry mixing of an insoluble dye with an either natural or synthetic phyllosilicate.
  • said colored powder cosmetic composition was obtained by dry mixing the ingredients, i.e. without the use of aqueous solutions. Therefore, when said colored powder cosmetic composition is contact with an aqueous solution for the first time, the phyllosilicate contained in such a colored powder cosmetic composition will prevent the migration of the water-soluble portion of the dye contained in the powder.
  • said natural or synthetic phyllosilicate is a phyllosilicate comprising stearalkonium bentonite and/or hectorite; preferably, said dye is a lake.
  • said natural or synthetic phyllosilicate is in an amount from 50% to 90% by weight, even more preferably from 50% to 85% by weight and most preferably from 60% to 85% by weight; preferably, said dye (lake) is in an amount from 10% to 50% by weight, even more preferably from 15% to 50% by weight and most preferably from 15% to 40% by weight.
  • Said colored powder cosmetic composition obtained according to said first embodiment is particularly useful for the preparation of cosmetic compositions such as cosmetic powders of the blusher, foundation, powder type.
  • said colored powder cosmetic composition of the present invention is obtained by: a) first dissolving said dye in an aqueous solution, such as for example in distilled water, and adding to such a solution so obtained said natural or synthetic phyllosilicate, so as to obtain a liquid colored dispersion of phyllosilicate and dye; and, then, b) filtering said liquid dispersion of a phyllosilicate and dye and leaving it to dry to obtain a powder with low residual water, such as for example ⁇ 1%.
  • said colored powder cosmetic composition is obtained, first, by contacting said dye with an aqueous solution, thus giving the possibility that as a result of such a contact, the above-mentioned problem of migration of the water-soluble portion of the dye could occur, but in fact preventing the occurrence thereof thanks to the presence of said natural or synthetic phyllosilicate, which is capable of absorbing said water-soluble dye portion and, then, drying and filtering said liquid dispersion of phyllosilicate and the water-soluble dye portion, obtaining again a colored powder.
  • Such colored powder thus obtained again is more effective than the same colored powder obtained according to the first embodiment of the powder described above (which had not been subjected to a first contact with an aqueous solution and subsequent drying) since, the dye having already been subjected to migration in the step of preparation of the powder, its water-soluble portion will not tend to migrate anymore when placed in contact for a second time with an aqueous solution.
  • said a natural or synthetic phyllosilicate is a phyllosilicate comprising stearalkonium bentonite and/or hectorite; preferably, said dye is a water-soluble pure dye.
  • said liquid colored dispersion of phyllosilicate and dye obtained at the end of said step a) described above comprises water in an amount from 5% to 95% by weight, more preferably from 20% to 90% by weight, even more preferably from 40% to 85% by weight and most preferably from 60% to 80% by weight.
  • Said colored powder cosmetic composition initially had an aqueous phase which was dried and thus is not present in its final state.
  • Said colored powder cosmetic composition obtained according to said second embodiment is particularly useful for the preparation of cosmetic compositions such as eye shadows.
  • said colored powder cosmetic composition is obtained by absorbing a water-soluble fraction of dye released from a lake.
  • a lake initially in the form of powder mixed with a suitable amount of a natural or synthetic phyllosilicate, is wetted so as to give an aqueous dispersion of phyllosilicate and of a water-soluble fraction of dye released from the lake, such as to enable the natural or synthetic phyllosilicate to absorb such a water-soluble fraction of dye released from said lake.
  • the dispersion is then filtered and dried to obtain a colored powder with low residual water, such as for example ⁇ 1%.
  • the colored powder cosmetic composition is obtained by contacting a fraction of water-soluble dye (in this case released from a lake) with a phyllosilicate in water and then drying such a solution again to obtain again a colored powder which has already operated to prevent migration. Also in this case, there will thus be no further possibility of migration of the water-soluble portion of the dye (lake) contained in the colored powder cosmetic composition when this will be in contact with an aqueous solution.
  • said natural or synthetic phyllosilicate is a phyllosilicate comprising stearalkonium bentonite and/or hectorite.
  • said aqueous dispersion of phyllosilicate and lake described above comprises water, preferably in an amount from 5% to 95% by weight, more preferably from 20% to 90% by weight, even more preferably from 40% to 85% by weight and most preferably from 50% to 80% by weight, a natural or synthetic phyllosilicate in an amount from 50% to 90% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 80% by weight, even more preferably from 15% to 60% by weight and most preferably from 30% to 50% by weight, and said lake.
  • Said colored powder cosmetic composition obtained according to said third embodiment is especially useful for the preparation of cosmetic compositions, such as eye shadows, cosmetic inks for the decoration of the eyelids, mascara for the decoration of the eyelashes, cosmetic fluid for the lips, and pencils and eyeliners for the decoration of the eyes.
  • cosmetic compositions such as eye shadows, cosmetic inks for the decoration of the eyelids, mascara for the decoration of the eyelashes, cosmetic fluid for the lips, and pencils and eyeliners for the decoration of the eyes.
  • said colored powder cosmetic composition comprises a natural or synthetic phyllosilicate, at least one dye and at least one cosmetic excipient portion.
  • said natural or synthetic phyllosilicate is a phyllosilicate comprising stearalkonium bentonite and/or hectorite; preferably, said dye is a lake; and preferably, said cosmetic excipient is selected from the group comprising, for example, sericite (which is an aluminum and potassium silicate also called natural mica), fluorophlogopite (also called synthetic mica), borosilicate, talcum, boron nitride, silica, alumina, etc.
  • sericite which is an aluminum and potassium silicate also called natural mica
  • fluorophlogopite also called synthetic mica
  • borosilicate talcum
  • boron nitride silica, alumina, etc.
  • said colored powder cosmetic composition is obtained by dry mixing said at least one lake with a powder based on said natural or synthetic phyllosilicate, and said cosmetic excipient portion (e.g. natural mica or synthetic mica).
  • said cosmetic excipient portion e.g. natural mica or synthetic mica.
  • Said colored powder cosmetic composition obtained according to said fourth embodiment is particularly useful for the preparation of cosmetic compositions such as eye shadows and cosmetic emulsions for the decoration of the eyes.
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous phase like that indicated in claim 9.
  • a cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous phase and a non-aqueous phase comprising at least one colored powder portion, where said colored powder portion comprises at least one natural or synthetic phyllosilicate, and at least one dye, where said at least one phyllosilicate is able to absorb the water-soluble portion of said dye released from said powder when it is in contact with said aqueous solution, is able to prevent the above color migration problem.
  • the water-soluble dye portion released from the powder is absorbed by said at least one natural or synthetic phyllosilicate, preventing the migration of color.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the second aspect of the present invention can be any product used in cosmetics, such as nail polishes and solvents thereof, mascara, foundation, marker pens, eye shadows, lipsticks, lip gloss, as well as oil/silicone in water emulsions and water in oil/silicone emulsions, or other products comprising an aqueous phase for the care and the aesthetics of fingernails, face, eyes, lips and body products in general.
  • cosmetics such as nail polishes and solvents thereof, mascara, foundation, marker pens, eye shadows, lipsticks, lip gloss, as well as oil/silicone in water emulsions and water in oil/silicone emulsions, or other products comprising an aqueous phase for the care and the aesthetics of fingernails, face, eyes, lips and body products in general.
  • said natural or synthetic phyllosilicate and said dye contained in said colored powder portion are a silicate, preferably a phyllosilicate, and a dye, respectively, as described above with reference to the first aspect of the present invention referred to a colored powder cosmetic composition.
  • said at least one phyllosilicate comprises stearalkonium bentonite; moreover, preferably, said dye is a lake.
  • said cosmetic composition according to the second aspect of the present invention consists of said aqueous phase in an amount from 5% to 95% by weight, preferably from 10% to 90% by weight, more preferably from 20% to 80% by weight, even more preferably from 30% to 70% by weight and most preferably from 40% to 60% by weight, and of said non-aqueous phase in an amount from 5% to 95% by weight, preferably from 10% to 90% by weight, more preferably from 20% to 80% by weight, even more preferably from 30% to 70% by weight and most preferably from 40% to 60% by weight.
  • said non-aqueous phase comprises said at least one colored powder portion based on a natural or synthetic phyllosilicate and at least one dye, where said powder portion is in an amount from 1% to 99% by weight, preferably from 10% to 90% by weight and most preferably from 20% to 80% by weight of such a non-aqueous phase.
  • Said colored powder portion comprises a natural or synthetic phyllosilicate, in an amount from 50% to 90% by weight, more preferably from 55% by weight to 85% by weight, even more preferably from 60% by weight to 80% by weight and most preferably from 65% by weight to 75% by weight, and at least one dye in an amount from 10% to 50% by weight, more preferably from 15% to 45% by weight, even more preferably from 20% to 40% by weight and most preferably from 25% to 35% by weight.
  • a natural or synthetic phyllosilicate in an amount from 50% to 90% by weight, more preferably from 55% by weight to 85% by weight, even more preferably from 60% by weight to 80% by weight and most preferably from 65% by weight to 75% by weight, and at least one dye in an amount from 10% to 50% by weight, more preferably from 15% to 45% by weight, even more preferably from 20% to 40% by weight and most preferably from 25% to 35% by weight.
  • said colored powder portion contained in the cosmetic composition according to the second aspect of the present invention can be obtained according to any of the methods of preparation described above with reference from the first to the fourth embodiment of said colored powder cosmetic composition according to the first aspect of the present invention.
  • said colored powder portion is obtained by: a) dissolving said dye in distilled water and adding said at least one silicate, preferably a phyllosilicate, so as to obtain a dispersion of silicate, preferably of phyllosilicate, and dye; and by b) filtering said dispersion and leaving it to dry to obtain a powder having a water residual ⁇ 1%.
  • said cosmetic composition according to the second aspect of the present invention may be in liquid, semi-liquid or pasty form.
  • said cosmetic composition according to the second aspect of the present invention further comprises at least one among solvents, silicone compounds, waxes, cosmetics excipients, film-forming polymers, texturizers, emollients, preservatives, perfumes, flavors, vitamins, antioxidants, oils or vegetable or mineral fats, surfactants or mixtures thereof.
  • Particularly suitable solvents can be any organic solvent suitable for use in cosmetic products, such as for example aliphatic hydrocarbons having from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, as well as as isoparaffins such as isooctane, isononane, isodecane, isododecane.
  • organic solvent suitable for use in cosmetic products such as for example aliphatic hydrocarbons having from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, as well as as isoparaffins such as isooctane, isononane, isodecane, isododecane.
  • Particularly suitable silicone compounds can be, for example, polisiloxanes, cyclomethicone, dimethicone.
  • Particularly suitable waxes can be, for example, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, beeswax, ceresin, microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax, silicone wax, polyethylene wax and the like.
  • cosmetic excipients can be talc, mica, silica, kaolin, zinc oxide, calcium carbonate, magnesium phosphate carbonate, starch and derivatives thereof, nylon, polyethylene, acrylic (co)polymers and so on.
  • Particularly suitable film-forming polymers may be lipophilic (co)polymers derived from, for example, polyvinylpyrrolidone, fluorine-containing monomers, acrylic monomers, cellulose, etc.
  • Particularly suitable texturizers may be, for example, polyurethanes, polyethylene, HDI/trimethylol hexyllactone crosspolymer, boron nitride, dimethicone, nylon-12 and others.
  • Particularly suitable emollients or emulsifiers may be octyl dodecanol, dimethicone, isononyl isononanoate, dipentaerythrityl pentaisononanoate.
  • Particularly suitable surfactants may be sorbitan stearate, sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan laurate and polyoxyethylenes derived from such compounds.
  • the present invention relates to a method as that indicated in claim 11 for preparing a colored powder composition comprising at least one silicate, synthetic or natural, and at least one dye.
  • the Applicant of the present invention has in fact surprisingly found that a method for preparing a colored powder composition comprising at least one natural or synthetic silicate and at least one dye, method comprising the steps of:
  • said at least one natural or synthetic silicate, and said dye contained in said colored powder portion are a silicate and a dye, respectively, as described above with reference to the first aspect of the present invention referred to a colored powder cosmetic composition.
  • said at least one silicate is a phyllosilicate which comprises stearalkonium bentonite; moreover, preferably, said dye is a lake.
  • the aqueous solution indicated in step b) above is distilled water.
  • said silicate dispersion preferably of phyllosilicate, and dye thus obtained is left under stirring for about one hour at room temperature.
  • said dispersion is filtered at reduced pressure and then washed with plenty of distilled water on paper filter before being subjected to drying.
  • said drying takes place by placing the powder recovered from said filtration in a furnace at a temperature from about 60°C to 90°C, preferably at 80°C up to have a residual content of water ⁇ 1%.
  • the amount of such a water residual content is verified using a thermobalance.
  • said method further comprises the further step of c) grinding the powder thus dried for obtaining particles having average size ⁇ 150 ⁇ m, for example using a 150 mesh metal sieve; more preferably, for obtaining particles having average size ⁇ 50 ⁇ m, even more preferably ⁇ 5 ⁇ m.
  • said dispersion of silicate, preferably of phyllosilicate, and dye in aqueous solution comprises water in an amount from 5% to 95% by weight, more preferably from 20% to 90% by weight, even more preferably from 40% to 85% by weight and most preferably from 60% to 80% by weight, at least one silicate, preferably a natural or synthetic phyllosilicate, in an amount from 5% to 95% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 80% by weight, even more preferably from 15% to 60% by weight and most preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, and at least one dye, preferably in an amount from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3% to 10% by weight and most preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight.
  • the colored powder composition comprising at least one silicate, preferably a natural or synthetic phyllosilicate, and at least one dye
  • at least one silicate preferably a natural or synthetic phyllosilicate
  • at least one dye preferably, said dye being a lake.
  • said dry mixing takes place by means of a mixer for powders for about 5 minutes.
  • said dry-mixed colored powder composition comprises said at least one silicate, preferably a natural or synthetic phyllosilicate, in an amount from 20% to 95% by weight, more preferably from 40% to 90% by weight, even more preferably from 50% to 85% by weight and most preferably from 60% to 85% by weight; preferably, said dye (lake) is in an amount from 5% to 80% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 60% by weight, even more preferably from 15% to 50% by weight and most preferably from 15% to 40% by weight.
  • silicate preferably a natural or synthetic phyllosilicate
  • the present invention relates to a method as that indicated in claim 14 for preparing a colored powder composition comprising at least one natural or synthetic silicate, by the absorption of the dye portion released from a lake in aqueous environment.
  • the Applicant of the present invention has in fact surprisingly found that a method for preparing a colored powder composition comprising at least one natural or synthetic silicate, the method comprising the steps of:
  • said at least one natural or synthetic silicate contained in said colored powder portion is a silicate, as described above with reference to the first aspect of the present invention referred to a colored powder cosmetic composition.
  • said at least one silicate is a phyllosilicate and more preferably a phyllosilicate comprising stearalkonium bentonite.
  • the aqueous solution indicated in step b) above is distilled water.
  • said silicate dispersion preferably of phyllosilicate, and water-soluble dye portion released from said lake is left under stirring for about one hour at room temperature.
  • said dispersion is filtered at reduced pressure and then washed with plenty of distilled water on paper filter before being subjected to drying.
  • said step d) of drying takes place by placing the powder recovered from said filtration in a furnace at a temperature from about 60°C to 90°C, preferably at 80°C up to have a residual content of water ⁇ 1%.
  • the amount of such a water residual content is verified using a thermobalance.
  • said method further comprises the further step of e) grinding the powder thus dried for obtaining particles having average size ⁇ 150 ⁇ m, for example using a 150 mesh metal sieve; more preferably, for obtaining particles having average size ⁇ 50 ⁇ m, even more preferably ⁇ 5 ⁇ m.
  • said silicate dispersion, preferably of phyllosilicate, and lake in aqueous solution comprises at least one silicate, preferably a natural or synthetic phyllosilicate, preferably in an amount from 5% to 95% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 80% by weight, even more preferably from 15% to 60% by weight and most preferably from 30% to 50% by weight, at least one lake, in an amount preferably from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, even more preferably from 3% to 20% by weight and most preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, and water, preferably in an amount from 5% to 95% by weight, more preferably from 20% to 90% by weight, even more preferably from 40% to 85% by weight and most preferably from 50% to 80% by weight.
  • silicate preferably a natural or synthetic phyllosilicate
  • a method, not recited in the claims, for preparing a colored powder composition comprises the steps of:
  • said at least one natural or synthetic silicate contained in said colored powder portion is a silicate, as described above with reference to the first aspect of the present invention referred to a colored powder cosmetic composition.
  • said at least one silicate is a phyllosilicate, preferably it comprises stearalkonium bentonite.
  • said cosmetic excipient is selected from the group comprising, for example, sericite (which is a silicate of aluminum and potassium, also called natural mica), fluorophlogopite (also called synthetic mica), borosilicate, talc, boron nitride, silica, alumina, etc. More preferably, said cosmetic excipient is natural mica or synthetic mica.
  • said step a) of mixing occurs under continuous stirring at room temperature.
  • said hydrocarbon solvent in step a) is an isododecane.
  • said step c) of activating the exfoliation of the mixture impregnated with cosmetic excipient takes place by means of alcohol, such as for example ethyl alcohol or isopropyl alcohol, or any analogous activator, such as for example propylene carbonate or glycerin carbonate.
  • alcohol such as for example ethyl alcohol or isopropyl alcohol
  • any analogous activator such as for example propylene carbonate or glycerin carbonate.
  • said step d) of drying takes place by placing the gel so obtained in a furnace at a temperature from about 60°C to 90°C, preferably at 80°C up to have a residual content of isododecane ⁇ 1%.
  • the amount of such a isododecane residual content is verified using a thermobalance.
  • said method further comprises the further step of d') grinding the gel thus dried for obtaining particles having average size ⁇ 150 ⁇ m, for example using a 150 mesh metal sieve; more preferably, for obtaining particles having average size ⁇ 50 ⁇ m, even more preferably ⁇ 5 ⁇ m.
  • said mixture comprising at least one silicate, preferably a natural or synthetic phyllosilicate, a hydrocarbon solvent and a cosmetic excipient comprises at least one silicate, preferably a natural or synthetic phyllosilicate, preferably in an amount from 0.1% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 2% to 15% by weight and most preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, at least one hydrocarbon solvent, in an amount preferably from 15% to 75% by weight, more preferably from 20% to 70% by weight, even more preferably from 25% to 65% by weight and most preferably from 30% to 60% by weight, and a cosmetic excipient, preferably natural or synthetic mica, preferably in an amount from 15% to 75% by weight, more preferably from 20% to 70% by weight, even more preferably from 25% to 65% by weight and most preferably from 30% to 60% by weight.
  • said step e) of dry-mixing of the powder obtained above with a lake takes place by means of a powder mixer for a period of about 5 minutes.
  • said colored powder composition obtained with the method described above comprises at least one silicate, preferably a natural or synthetic phyllosilicate, preferably in an amount from 2% to 35% by weight, more preferably from 3% to 30% by weight, even more preferably from 4% to 25% by weight and most preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, a cosmetic excipient, preferably natural mica or synthetic mica, in an amount preferably from 60% to 98% by weight, more preferably from 65% to 95% by weight, even more preferably from 70% to 95% by weight and most preferably from 75% to 90% by weight, and a lake, preferably in an amount from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight and most preferably from 2.5% to 8% by weight.
  • silicate preferably a natural or synthetic phyllosilicate
  • said method according to the fifth aspect of the present invention comprises, at the end of said step c) of exfoliation, a further step of reconversion in which it is possible to convert the gel obtained into a solid material (silicate, preferably phyllosilicate).
  • This further step preferably takes place when said solvent is a volatile solvent, for example isododecane.
  • said reconversion takes place in the presence of another solid finely dispersed in the gel, such as an excipient powder.
  • the deposition of the silicate, preferably phyllosilicate, on such an excipient is obtained, with the advantage that the final powder is a composite powder which benefits both from the particle size features of the excipient (sophisticated cosmetic properties) and of the absorbent capacity of the silicate, preferably of the phyllosilicate.
  • the present invention relates to the use of a colored powder composition for the preparation of a cosmetic composition as that indicated in claim 17.
  • the Applicant of the present application has in fact surprisingly found that the use of a colored powder composition comprising at least one natural or synthetic silicate and at least one dye, for the preparation of a cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous phase, allows said at least one natural or synthetic silicate to absorb the water-soluble portion of said at least one dye when said colored powder comes in contact with said aqueous phase of said cosmetic composition.
  • said at least one natural or synthetic silicate contained in said colored powder portion is a silicate, as described above with reference to the first aspect of the present invention referred to a colored powder cosmetic composition.
  • said at least one silicate is a phyllosilicate, preferably it comprises stearalkonium bentonite.
  • a lake and a natural or synthetic phyllosilicate were taken.
  • the lake was a carmine (C.I. 75470), a red pigment extracted from dried cochineal insects (scientific name Dactylopius coccus ) .
  • the phyllosilicate was a stearalkonium hectorite, a creamy white powder, available from Elementis Specialties, Delden, Netherlands with the initials Bentone R 27V.
  • the two ingredients were dry mixed with a powder mixer for 5 minutes.
  • a colored powder was thus obtained (Powder 1) with a homogeneous distribution comprising 20% by weight of the lake and 80% by weight of the natural or synthetic phyllosilicate. It was thus possible to introduce the lake in high percentages without incurring unacceptable aesthetic defects.
  • An aqueous dispersion was prepared by dissolving 0.826% by weight of the pure water-soluble dye called Blue 1 (C.I. 42090), a reddish-blue powder, in 66.116% by weight of distilled water and adding 33.058% by weight of stearalkonium hectorite to the mixture.
  • the dispersion is left under stirring for 1 hour at room temperature and then filtered at reduced pressure and then washed with plentiful distilled water on paper filter.
  • the powder recovered by filtration was placed to dry in an oven at 80°C up to have a residual water content ⁇ 1%, verified using a thermobalance. After drying, the powder was subjected to sifting with a 150 mesh metal sieve.
  • a colored powder (Powder 2) was so obtained, having an even color distribution in which the phyllosilicate absorbed the water-soluble portion of the dye.
  • Such a powder will not be subject to the problem of migration when placed in contact with an aqueous solution and can therefore be regarded as belonging to a new class of pigments, associable to the pigment Maya Blue).
  • the natural or synthetic phyllosilicates "charged" with two different pure dyes can be dry mixed and by processing such a mixture in an aqueous environment, the inter-diffusion of the dyes will lead to the creation of an end pigment having a unique color. In this way, a higher color purity than the simple mixing of traditional pigments is ensured.
  • a colored powder (Powder 3) was so obtained, having an even color distribution in which the phyllosilicate absorbed the water-soluble fraction of dye released by the non water-soluble lake in aqueous environment.
  • Powder 4 was prepared in a manner similar to Powder 3, using a water-insoluble lake called Red 7 Lake (C.I. 15850), reddish in color, instead of the lake called Blue 1 Lake (C.I. 42090), in the same percentages by weight.
  • Red 7 Lake C.I. 15850
  • Blue 1 Lake C.I. 42090
  • a colored powder (Powder 4) was so obtained, having an even color distribution in which the phyllosilicate absorbed the water-soluble fraction of dye released by the non water-soluble lake in aqueous environment.
  • Powder 5 was prepared in a manner similar to Powder 3, using a water-insoluble lake called Yellow 5 Lake (C.I. 19140), instead of the lake called Blue 1 Lake (C.I. 42090), in the same percentages by weight.
  • Yellow 5 Lake C.I. 19140
  • Blue 1 Lake C.I. 42090
  • a colored powder (Powder 5) was so obtained, having an even color distribution in which the phyllosilicate absorbed the water-soluble fraction of dye released by the non water-soluble lake in aqueous environment.
  • the powder obtained consisting of stearalkonium hectorite and synthetic mica, was subjected to sieving with a 150 mesh metal sieve.
  • the powder thus obtained after sieving was then dry mixed with the water-insoluble lake called Blue 1 Lake (C.I. 42090) by means of a powder mixer for 5 minutes, obtaining a composite having the following proportions: 3.86% by weight of such a lake, 7.720 stearalkonium hectorite and 88.42% by weight of synthetic mica.
  • Powders 1 and 3 described above were evaluated by means of migration and absorption tests as described hereafter.
  • Some aqueous solutions of CaCl 2 were prepared at 5% by weight; to 20 g of each of such solutions, 0.5 g of pigment Carmine (C.I. 75470) and progressive amounts (from 0 to 4 g) of Bentone R 27 V (phyllosilicate of stearalkonium hectorite), which are the two compounds used to prepare Powder 1 mentioned above, were added.
  • the resulting dispersions were incubated in a stove at 80°C for 24h to induce the migration of the organic pigment. At the end, the dispersions were filtered and the mother liquors were examined. The dye concentration was determined by HPLC.
  • Table 1 shows the colors of mother liquor after testing and the residual amount of chromophore in mother liquor, expressed in parts per million (PPM).
  • Table 1 Test Bentone R 27 VG Pigment g Sol. 5% weight CaCl 2 /g Mother liquor color Residual amount of chromophore in mother liquor/ppm 1 0.00 Carmine 0.50 20.00 ++++ intense red 249 2 0.10 Carmine 0.50 20.00 ++++ 246 3 0.20 Carmine 0.50 20.00 ++++ 21 4 0.50 Carmine 0.50 20.00 ++++ 19 5 1.00 Carmine 0.50 20.00 ++ 5 6 2.00 Carmine 0.50 20.00 + (almost clear) ⁇ 5 7 3.00 Carmine 0.50 20.00 clear ⁇ 5 8 4.00 Carmine 0.50 20.00 clear ⁇ 5 9 0.00 Blue 1 Lake 0.50 20.00 ++++ intense blue 1104 10 0.10 Blue 1 Lake 0.50 20.00 ++++ 987 11 0.20 Blue 1 Lake 0.50 20.00 ++++ 837 12 0.50 Blue 1 Lake 0.50 20.00 ++++
  • Table 1 shows that, in the absence of Bentone R 27 V (tests 1 and 9), the color of the mother liquors was intense red or intense blue, respectively, depending on whether the test concerned the carmine or blue lake.
  • the amount of residual chromophore in the mother liquor of such tests 1 and 9 was significantly high (about 1000 ppm).
  • the coloring of the mother liquors decreased up to become clear by using increasing amounts of Bentone R 27 V and the amount of chromophore was reduced to a few units in ppm.
  • Excellent results were obtained using Bentone R 27 V in amounts starting from 1 g, both in combination with carmine (tests 5-8) and with the blue lake (tests 13-16).
  • Powders 1 and 3 described above were evaluated by means of resistance tests to strong acids and bases and to mono- and divalent salts.
  • Table 2 shows the colors of mother liquor after testing and the residual amount of chromophore in mother liquor, expressed in parts per million (PPM).
  • Table 2 shows that the tests of the invention n. 25-28, in which the lake Blue 1 Lake was combined with the phyllosilicate Bentone R 27 V, showed clear staining of the mother liquors after treatment with acids, bases or salts, and a very low amount of residual chromophore (less than 5 ppm). Conversely, the corresponding comparison tests n. 29-32, where the same Blue 1 Lake was coated on talc rather than being mixed with the phyllosilicate, the color of the mother liquors turned deep blue and the amount of residual chromophore in the mother liquors was considerably high.
  • the evaluation test of powders 1 and 3 shown in examples 2 and 3 above show that, in the presence of a phyllosilicate, an excellent effect of prevention of the migration of a dye or lake is obtained when it is in contact with an aqueous solution. Conversely, the same effect is not obtained if the dye or lake is coated on a traditional excipient, such as talc, instead of being mixed with the phyllosilicate.
  • each of these points are simply the three coordinates L*, a* and b*, each variable in a range from -100 to +100, where L* expresses the clarity of a color, where the maximum value of L* coincides with the paper white, while a* and b* define the hue of a color, where the more positive is the value of a*, the redder the color, while the more negative is the value of a*, the greener the color; similarly, the more positive is the value of b*, the yellower the color, while the more negative is the value of b*, the bluer the color.
  • Table 3 shows the CIElab coordinates obtained by varying the type of dye used, alone or in combination with another dye, and adjusting the percentages of dye compared with the phyllosilicate.
  • Table 3 Test Water-soluble dye % dye compared to Bentone R 27 V L* a* b* Mass color 33 (inv.) Red n. 33 3.50 60.32 45.17 -6.07 Amaranth 34 (inv.) Yellow n. 5 0.625 91.69 -4.3 33.07 Yellow 35 (inv.) Yellow n. 5 1.25 91.26 -4.26 39.08 Yellow 36 (inv.) Yellow n. 5 2.50 90.31 -3.98 48.69 Yellow 37 (inv.) Blue n.
  • Table 3 shows that by mixing a single type of dye with the phyllosilicate, colored powders were obtained substantially of the same color as the starting dye, while mixing two types of dye, in various percentages, with the phyllosilicate, colored powders were obtained having various shades of gradations. It was therefore possible to obtain a variety of colored powders to meet the user's needs to have powders to be used in the cosmetic field with more and more varied colors.
  • pigment (A) based on the absorption of the water-soluble dye Blue n. 1 (2.4% by weight) on 97.6% by weight of phyllosilicate Bentone R 27 V was compared with a pigment (B) based on the same water-soluble dye and non-absorbent excipient (talc) instead of phyllosilicate.
  • talc non-absorbent excipient
  • Powders 1-5 prepared above comprising a dye or lake and at least one phyllosilicate were used to prepare cosmetic compositions to be used as eye shadows, lipsticks, nail polishes and similar accessories useful in cosmetics.
  • Such powders during their preparation may have had contact with an aqueous phase which was then dried and which therefore is not present in the final state of such powders at the time of preparation of the cosmetic compositions described hereafter.
  • Cosmetic composition 1 was prepared, comprising 50% by weight of an aqueous phase and 50% by weight of a non-aqueous phase compared to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the aqueous phase consisted of 45% by weight of water and 5% by weight of isopropyl alcohol.
  • the non-aqueous phase comprised: - Powder 1 (see above) 10% by weight - talc 30% by weight - HDI/trimethylol hexyllactone crosspolymer 1.25% by weight - magnesium aluminum silicate 1.5% by weight - boron nitride 5% by weight - dimethicone 1.75% by weight - ethylhexylglycerin 0.25% by weight - caprylyl glycol 0.25% by weight
  • the aqueous phase was then removed to obtain the blusher cosmetic powder of the Cosmetic Composition 1.
  • Cosmetic composition 2 was prepared, comprising 42.08% by weight of an aqueous phase and 57.92% by weight of a non-aqueous phase compared to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the non-aqueous phase comprised: - Powder 2 (see above) 12% by weight - Mica 30% by weight - magnesium aluminum silicate 1.438% by weight - HDI/trimethylol hexyllactone crosspolymer 2.874% by weight - dimethicone 2.76% by weight - isononyl isononanoate 2.76% by weight - vinylpyrrolidone hexadecene copolymer 2.76% by weight - cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone 2.62% by weight - ethylhexylglycerin 0.288% by weight - polysorbate 20 0.42% by weight
  • the aqueous phase was then removed to obtain the eye shadow cosmetic powder of the Cosmetic Composition 2.
  • the cosmetic composition 3 was prepared in a similar way to the cosmetic composition 2, using Powder 3 in place of Powder 2, in the percentages.
  • Cosmetic composition 4 was prepared, comprising 48.8% by weight of an aqueous phase and 51.2% by weight of a non-aqueous phase compared to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the non-aqueous phase comprised: - Powder 3 (see above) 7.82% by weight - alcohol 7.46% by weight - 1.2-hexanediol 4.46% by weight - sodium polyaspartate 1.00% by weight - titanium dioxide 7.79% by weight - acrylate copolymer 7.18% by weight - preservatives 15.49% by weight
  • Cosmetic composition 5 was prepared, comprising 54.46% by weight of an aqueous phase and 45.54% by weight of a non-aqueous phase compared to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the non-aqueous phase comprised: - Powder 3 (see above) 7.34% by weight - butyl glycol 2.10% by weight - Senegal acacia gum 4.20% by weight - triethanolamine 2.50% by weight - stearic acid 5.04% by weight - synthetic beeswax 10.50% by weight - paraffin 8.40% by weight - polybutene 2.10% by weight - ascorbyl palmitate 0.21% by weight - vinylpyrrolidone/eicosene copolymer 2.10% by weight - preservatives 1.05% by weight
  • Cosmetic composition 6 was prepared, comprising 35.525% by weight of an aqueous phase and 64.475% by weight of a non-aqueous phase compared to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the non-aqueous phase comprised: - Powder 4 (see above) 7.00% by weight - octyldodecanol 16.47% by weight - ethylcellulose 1.83% by weight - dipentaerythrityl pentaisononanoate 9.00% by weight - sorbitan stearate 3.00% by weight - polybutene 9.70% by weight - polyglyceryl-4 caprylate 3.60% by weight - Xanthan gum 0.40% by weight - vinylpyrrolidone/ metacrylamide/vinyl imidazole copolymer 7.00% by weight - denatured alcohol 5.775% by weight - preservatives 0.70% by weight
  • Cosmetic composition 7 was prepared, comprising 35.620% by weight of an aqueous phase and 64.380% by weight of a non-aqueous phase compared to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the non-aqueous phase comprised: - Powder 3 (see above) 24.10% by weight - Powder 5 (see above) 10.06% by weight - Chondrus Crispus 0.34% by weight - glycerine 3.81% by weight - polysorbate 80 0.45% by weight - polyurethane 24 23.52% by weight - preservatives 2.10% by weight
  • Cosmetic composition 8 was prepared, comprising 43.326% by weight of an aqueous phase and 56.674% by weight of a non-aqueous phase compared to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the non-aqueous phase comprised: - Powder 6 (see above) 20.00% by weight - Mica 25.00% by weight - Nylon-12 0.595% by weight - magnesium aluminum silicate 1.438% by weight - dimethicone 2.083% by weight - vinylpyrrolidone hexadecene copolymer (polyvinylpyrrolidone/hexadecene copolymer) 2.083% by weight - isononyl isononanoate 2.38% by weight - cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone 2.38% by weight - ethylhexylglycerin 0.298% by weight - caprylyl glycol 0.417% by weight
  • the aqueous phase was then removed to obtain the eye shadow cosmetic powder of the Cosmetic Composition 8.
  • Cosmetic composition 9 was prepared, comprising 35.48% by weight of an aqueous phase and 64.52% by weight of a non-aqueous phase compared to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the non-aqueous phase comprised: - Powder 6 (see above) 45.515% by weight - sorbitan stearate 2.68% by weight - ascorbyl palmitate 0.01% by weight - tocopherol 0.025% by weight - titanium dioxide (C.I. 77891) 14.08% by weight - polyarylamide 0.56% by weight - preservatives 1.65% by weight
  • compositions 1-9 of the invention thus prepared therefore contained at least one powder of the invention comprising at least one dye or lake mixed with a phyllosilicate.
  • compositions 1-9 of the invention showed no migration of the dyes contained therein, even when placed in contact with aqueous solutions. In fact, there was no migration of the color and no negative effects of unwanted staining of the skin or other parts of the body were observed after having been subjected to treatment with such compositions of the invention comprising the powders of the invention as described above.

Claims (17)

  1. Composition cosmétique pulvérulente colorée comprenant au moins un silicate, naturel ou synthétique, et au moins un colorant, caractérisée en ce que ledit au moins un silicate est un phyllosilicate comprenant un sel quaternaire de sépiolite, d'hectorite, de montmorillonite, de bentonite, ou de mélanges de ceux-ci, ledit au moins un colorant est un colorant hydrosoluble pur ou un colorant non hydrosoluble dilué sur un support inorganique, ledit au moins un silicate est susceptible d'absorber la partie hydrosoluble dudit colorant libérée par le colorant lui-même quand il est en contact avec une solution aqueuse, ledit au moins un silicate est en une quantité de 50 % à 90 % en poids et ledit au moins un colorant est en une quantité de 10 % à 50 % en poids.
  2. Composition cosmétique pulvérulente colorée selon la revendication 1, dans laquelle ledit au moins un silicate est en une quantité de 55 % à 85 % en poids et ledit au moins un colorant est en une quantité de 15 % à 45 % en poids.
  3. Composition cosmétique pulvérulente colorée selon la revendication 1 ou 2, dans laquelle ledit au moins un silicate est en une quantité de 60 % à 80 % en poids et ledit au moins un colorant est en une quantité de 20 % à 40 % en poids.
  4. Composition cosmétique pulvérulente colorée selon les revendications 1 à 3, dans laquelle ledit au moins un silicate est en une quantité de 65 % à 75 % en poids et ledit au moins un colorant est en une quantité de 25 % à 35 % en poids.
  5. Composition cosmétique pulvérulente colorée selon les revendications 1 à 4, dans laquelle lesdits sels quaternaires sont choisis dans le groupe comprenant les sels d'ammonium, de distéardimonium, de stéaralconium, de phosphonium, d'arsonium, de benzalconium, de cétrimonium, de pyridinium, de tiazonium et similaire.
  6. Composition cosmétique pulvérulente colorée selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 5, qui comprend en outre au moins une partie de l'excipient cosmétique.
  7. Composition cosmétique pulvérulente colorée selon la revendication 6, dans laquelle ledit excipient cosmétique est un mica naturel ou un mica synthétique.
  8. Composition cosmétique pulvérulente colorée selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 7, qui comprend des particules ayant une taille moyenne < 150 µm.
  9. Composition cosmétique comprenant une phase aqueuse et une phase non aqueuse qui comprend au moins une partie pulvérulente, dans laquelle ladite au moins une partie pulvérulente est la composition cosmétique pulvérulente colorée selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 8, et comprend au moins un silicate, naturel ou synthétique, et au moins un colorant, dans laquelle ledit au moins un silicate est susceptible d'absorber la partie hydrosoluble dudit colorant libérée par le colorant quand il est en contact avec une solution aqueuse.
  10. Composition cosmétique selon la revendication 9, dans laquelle ladite poudre est obtenue par : a) dissolution dudit colorant dans de l'eau distillée et addition dudit au moins un silicate afin d'obtenir une dispersion de silicate et de colorant ; et par b) filtrage de ladite dispersion et repos pour séchage afin d'obtenir une poudre ayant une eau résiduelle < 1 %.
  11. Procédé de préparation d'une composition pulvérulente colorée comprenant au moins un silicate, naturel ou synthétique, et au moins un colorant, dans lequel ledit au moins un silicate est un phyllosilicate comprenant un sel quaternaire de sépiolite, d'hectorite, de montmorillonite, de bentonite ou de mélanges de ceux-ci, ledit au moins un colorant est un colorant hydrosoluble pur ou un colorant non hydrosoluble dilué sur un support inorganique, le procédé comprenant les étapes de :
    a) dissolution dudit au moins un colorant dans une solution aqueuse et addition dudit au moins un silicate afin d'obtenir une dispersion de silicate et de colorant ; et
    b) filtrage de ladite dispersion et repos pour qu'elle sèche afin d'obtenir une poudre colorée ayant une eau résiduelle < 1 %.
  12. Procédé selon la revendication 11, dans lequel lesdits sels quaternaires sont choisis dans le groupe comprenant les sels d'ammonium, de distéardimonium, de stéaralconium, de phosphonium, d'arsonium, de benzalconium, de cétrimonium, de pyridinium, de tiazonium et similaire.
  13. Procédé selon les revendications 11 à 12, qui, à la fin de l'étape b), comprend en outre l'étape supplémentaire c) de tamisage de la poudre colorée ainsi séchée afin d'obtenir des particules ayant une taille moyenne < 150 µm.
  14. Procédé de préparation d'une composition pulvérulente colorée comprenant au moins un silicate, dans lequel ledit au moins un silicate est un phyllosilicate comprenant un sel quaternaire de sépiolite, d'hectorite, de montmorillonite, de bentonite ou de mélanges de ceux-ci, le procédé comprenant les étapes de :
    a) mélange d'une laque pulvérulente et dudit au moins un silicate, naturel ou synthétique ;
    b) mise en contact dudit mélange de l'étape a) avec une solution aqueuse pour former une dispersion dans un environnement aqueux contenant une fraction hydrosoluble du colorant libérée par ladite laque ;
    c) ledit au moins un silicate, naturel ou synthétique, absorbant ladite fraction hydrosoluble du colorant libérée par ladite laque ;
    d) séchage de ce qui a été obtenu à l'étape c) afin d'obtenir une poudre colorée ayant une eau résiduelle < 1 %.
  15. Procédé selon la revendication 14, dans lequel lesdits sels quaternaires sont choisis dans le groupe comprenant les sels d'ammonium, de distéardimonium, de stéaralconium, de phosphonium, d'arsonium, de benzalconium, de cétrimonium, de pyridinium, de tiazonium et similaire.
  16. Procédé selon la revendication 14, qui, à la fin de l'étape d), comprend en outre l'étape supplémentaire d') de tamisage de la poudre colorée ainsi séchée afin d'obtenir des particules ayant une taille moyenne < 150 µm.
  17. Utilisation d'une composition pulvérulente colorée comprenant au moins un silicate, naturel ou synthétique, et au moins un colorant, selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 8, dans la préparation d'une composition cosmétique comprenant une phase aqueuse selon l'une quelconque des revendications 9 à 10, afin de permettre audit au moins un silicate, naturel ou synthétique, d'absorber la partie hydrosoluble dudit au moins un colorant quand le colorant lui-même est en contact avec ladite phase aqueuse de ladite composition cosmétique.
EP15734178.5A 2014-07-09 2015-07-06 Composition cosmétique Active EP3166576B1 (fr)

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PCT/EP2015/065343 WO2016005320A1 (fr) 2014-07-09 2015-07-06 Composition cosmétique

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US20210030601A1 (en) * 2018-03-29 2021-02-04 Kimberly-Clark Worldwide, Inc. Method of manufacturing an exudate management layer for use in an absorbent article
RU2743649C1 (ru) * 2018-03-29 2021-02-20 Кимберли-Кларк Ворлдвайд, Инк. Способ изготовления слоя распределения продуктов выделения для использования во впитывающем изделии
US10987298B2 (en) * 2018-06-29 2021-04-27 L'oreal Mascara compositions comprising a polymer having cyclic amide, cyclic amine and acrylamide functionality
CN112386553A (zh) * 2019-08-19 2021-02-23 英妃(杭州)化妆品有限公司 一种腮红及其制备工艺
US11752080B1 (en) * 2022-08-12 2023-09-12 Elc Management Llc Binder for use in powdery cosmetic compositions

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JP2017520589A (ja) 2017-07-27
US20170157004A1 (en) 2017-06-08
EP3166576A1 (fr) 2017-05-17
CN106470664B (zh) 2020-03-31
JP6715822B2 (ja) 2020-07-01
CN106470664A (zh) 2017-03-01
WO2016005320A1 (fr) 2016-01-14
US10898418B2 (en) 2021-01-26
KR102400356B1 (ko) 2022-05-19
KR20170026626A (ko) 2017-03-08

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