EP3038591A1 - Préparation cosmétique ou dermatologique de conditionnement de la peau, sans émulsifiant, contenant des substances actives - Google Patents

Préparation cosmétique ou dermatologique de conditionnement de la peau, sans émulsifiant, contenant des substances actives

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Publication number
EP3038591A1
EP3038591A1 EP14755810.0A EP14755810A EP3038591A1 EP 3038591 A1 EP3038591 A1 EP 3038591A1 EP 14755810 A EP14755810 A EP 14755810A EP 3038591 A1 EP3038591 A1 EP 3038591A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
preparation according
skin
substances
preparation
copolymer
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
EP14755810.0A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Cathrin Scherner
Inken GROTH
Magdalena VON WEDEL-PARLOW
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Beiersdorf AG
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf AG filed Critical Beiersdorf AG
Publication of EP3038591A1 publication Critical patent/EP3038591A1/fr
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/927—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of insects, e.g. shellac
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/35—Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
    • A61K8/355—Quinones
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A61K8/66—Enzymes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8147—Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/87—Polyurethanes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/004—Aftersun preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/04—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically tanning the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/33—Free of surfactant

Definitions

  • Emulsifier-free, skin-conditioning and active ingredient-containing cosmetic or dermatological preparation Emulsifier-free, skin-conditioning and active ingredient-containing cosmetic or dermatological preparation
  • the invention comprises an emulsifier-free, skin-conditioning cosmetic or dermatological preparation with active ingredients.
  • the preparation is suitable for application on wet skin without being completely rinsed off and thus allows the creaming and the application of skin care and / or during the shower
  • WO 2013064391 A2 describes cosmetic or dermatological preparations which make it possible to apply cream under the shower.
  • the invention is an emulsifier-free cosmetic or dermatological preparation comprising one or more polyacrylic acid polymers, one or more C14-22 fatty alcohols and one or more waxes and / or a hydrocarbon mixture and one or more active substances.
  • the preparation preferably comprises waxes, in particular Cera Microcristallina, in the range of more than 0.5% by weight, in particular more than 13% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation.
  • the preferred level refers to both individual waxes and preferably the total amount of multiple waxes.
  • Active ingredients according to the invention include all cosmetically or dermatologically active substances, in particular those substances which have a skin-care and / or skin-protecting property.
  • the active ingredients may preferably be selected from the group of skin care substances, self-tanning agents, cooling substances, warming substances and / or whitening substances.
  • one or more active substances are preferably selected from only one of the abovementioned groups.
  • one or more may be selected from the group of cyclodextrin, ubiquinone, creatine, 1-methylhydantoin-2-imide, glycine soy germ extract, ascorbic acid (vitamin C and its derivatives), ascorbyl palmitate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, pimpinella anisum Fruit Extract, Arctium Lappa Fruit Extract, Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Taurine, Foil Acid, Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Glucosylrutin and Isoquercitrin, Carnitine, Sodium Chloride, Glyceryl Glucoside, Climbazole, Piroctone Olamine, Oryzanol, BHT, Tocopherol, Vitamins, especially Vitamin E and A and their derivatives, Tocopheryl Acetate, Nelumbo Nucifera Leaf Extract, Caffeine, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract,
  • Cyanomethylphenyl Menthane Carboxamide Chelidonium Majus Extract, Salicylic Acid, 4-Butylresorcinol, Paullinia Cupana Seed Extract, Butyl Acrylate / Ethyltrimonium Chloride, Methacrylate / Styrene Copolymer, Octenidine HCl, Urea, Octadecenedioic Acid,
  • D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, folic acid and / or derivatives thereof, rucinol, panthenol, niacinamide, alpha-glucosylrutin, carnitine, carnosine, natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids, creatine, taurine, .beta.-alanine, 1 can be selected as preferred active ingredients -Methylhydantoin-2-imide, N- (4- (2,4-dihydroxyphenyl) thiazol-2-yl) isobutyramide, Glycine Soy Germ Extract, Pimpinella Anisum Fruit Extract, Arctium Lappa Fruit Extract, Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Glucosylrutin and
  • Q10 should be selected as active ingredient.
  • DHA 1, 3-dihydroxyacetone
  • self-tanning substances as active ingredients in the preparation according to the invention allows a time-saving application and the entire body can be browned so easily for the first time.
  • the circulation stimulating substances such as capsaicinoids as
  • circulation-promoting agents are preferably used
  • Vanilyl butyl ether (0.5 - 2.5%)
  • Nicotinic acid benzyl ester (0.5 - 4.0%)
  • NSAIDs non-steroidal antiinflammatory drugs
  • these are aspirin (acetylsalicylic acid), diflunisal, salsalates, ibuprofen, etofenamate, dexibuprofen, naproxen, fenoprofen, ketoprofen, dexketoprofen, flurbiprofen, oxaprozin, loxoprofen, indomethacin, tolmetin, sulindac, etodolac, ketorolac, diclofenac, nabumetone, piroxicam, meloxicam , Tenoxicam, droxicam, lornoxicam, isoxicam, mefenamic acid, meclofenamic acid,
  • Flufenamic acid Flufenamic acid, tolfenamic acid, celecoxib, rofecoxib, valdecoxib, parecoxib,
  • Menthol is part of the well-known Japanese peppermint oil (CAS: 20747-49-3). The most important isomer is (-) - menthol. Menthol produced when rubbed on the skin due
  • Oleum Eucalypti Oleum Menthae piperitae, Oleum camphoratum, Oleum Rosmarini, Oleum Thymi, Oleum pinis sibricum and Oleum Pini silverstris, as well as the terpenes 1, 8-cineol and levomethanol, as well as oleum Abietis albae, Oleum anisi, Oleum aurantii Floris, can also be used as further preferred essential oils , Oleum Bergamottae, Oleum Calendulae infusum, Oleum Caryophylli, Oleum Chamomillae, Oleum Cinnamomi ceylanici, Oleum Citri, Oleum
  • Citronellae Oleum Cupressi, Oleum Cymbopogonis, Oleum Jecoris, Oleum Lavendulae, Oleum Macidis, Oleum Majoranae, Oleum Melaleucae viridiflorae, Oleum Melissae, Oleum Menthae arvensis, Oleum Millefolium, Oleum Myrrhae, Oleum myrtle, Oleum Pini sibricum, Oleum Pinisilvestris, Oleum Salviae, Oleum Santali, Oleum Terebinthinae rectificat, Oleum Valerianae and Oleum Zingiberis are used.
  • the essential oils are used individually or in combination with others in a proportion of a total of 0.001 to 10 wt.%, In particular 0.01 to 1 wt.% In the preparation, based on the total mass of the preparation without propellant.
  • substances which are known for warming properties such as, for example, HotAct (vanillyl butyl ether) and / or capsicum, can also be used instead of the substances having a seemingly cooling effect.
  • HotAct vanillyl butyl ether
  • capsicum capsicum
  • Whitening fabrics are substances for skin whitening. This refers to the bleaching or coating of human skin to make it lighter for cosmetic purposes.
  • Preferred whitening substances are rucinol, hydroquinones, kojic acid, liquorice root extract, N- (4- (2,4-dihydroxyphenyl) thiazol-2-yl) isobutyramide, Camu Camu, licoriche, acerola or vitamin C.
  • tyrosinase inhibitors and melanin synthesis inhibitors, since the inhibition of tyrosinase results in the inhibition of melanin synthesis, but the inhibition of melanin synthesis does not necessarily mean tyrosinase inhibition.
  • melaninase inhibition For example, rucinol, hydroquinones and kojic acid also inhibit tyrosinase.
  • the use concentration in parts by weight of one or more of the active ingredients in the applied preparation is preferably up to 25% by weight, in particular in the range between 0.001% by weight and 20% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation.
  • the active compounds from the group of lipophilic compounds.
  • the basic preparation according to the invention is composed of predominantly lipophilic substances, it is thus possible to achieve a longer retention on the skin.
  • the preparation according to the invention preferably comprises as active ingredients Q10 and menthol.
  • the remaining of active ingredients after rinsing and drying on the skin by the preparation according to the invention succeeds.
  • the application of the combination of special fatty alcohols, waxes and advantageously one or more film formers leads to a skin protection and / or skin care even under the shower.
  • the preparations according to the invention advantageously comprise one or more film formers.
  • film formers are advantageously selected from the group hexadecene copolymer, trimethylsiloxysilicate, polypropylsilsesquioxane, polysilicone-25,
  • Acrylate copolymer polyurethane, methacrylate, polyglyceryl stearate, dilinoleate crosspolymer, alkyl acrylate / methacrylic acid crosspolymer, IPDI copolymer, in particular
  • the proportion of film formers is advantageously selected in the range of 0.1% by weight, in particular 0.5% by weight to 10% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation.
  • the protective film that forms on the skin is examined, once after the application of a rinse off product with integrated skin care aspects (Nivea cream soft shower gel) alone and once after application of the same product (Nivea cream soft shower gel) and subsequent application of the inventive preparation. After both applications, the skin is rinsed with water.
  • the skin refatting measurements were made by IR imaging. The measurement technique is called IR-ATR (InfraRed-Attenuated Total Reflectance).
  • the protective film of the invention comprises a skin-forming film comprising one or more active ingredients.
  • Advantageous and thus longer in the film and thus remaining on the skin are lipophilic drugs to choose.
  • the skin conditioning according to the invention comprises moisturizing
  • the protective film can be detected by means of IR-ATR measurement technology and ideally has a thickness of at least 1 ⁇ m to 10 ⁇ m.
  • the skin conditioning according to the invention is characterized in that the protective film on the skin comprises one or more active substances, one or more lipids and one or more skin moisturizing agents and no skin barrier damaging substances, in particular no emulsifiers and / or surfactants, are included.
  • fatty alcohols In the preparation according to the invention are one or more fatty alcohols and at least one additional wax and / or mixture of liquid and solid
  • Hydrocarbons having a melting range of 5 ° C to 75 ° C, preferably up to 55 ° C (according to DSC), given together, in particular melted.
  • At least one wax is present in addition to at least one fatty alcohol or, in addition to fatty alcohol, at least one mixture of liquid and solid is present
  • hydrocarbons Contain hydrocarbons. Ideally, it contains fatty alcohol, wax and a mixture of hydrocarbons.
  • fatty alcohols are myristyl, cetearyl and / or stearyl alcohols, as waxes Cera Microcristallina, Coco-Glyceride, C18-36 Acid Triglyceride, Synthetic Wax, Cera Alba, Paraffin, Copernicia Cerifera Cera, C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate,
  • Preferred use concentrations of the wax or wax is in the range of 0.5 to 20 wt.%, Based on the total mass of the preparation.
  • the fatty alcohols, waxes and hydrocarbon mixtures advantageously all have a melting range of 5 ° C. to 75 ° C., preferably up to 55 ° C. (according to DSC).
  • DSC Densilic Recanning Calorimetry
  • DSC is a thermal method for measuring emitted / absorbed heat quantity of a sample during isothermal operation, heating or cooling (see DIN 53765, DIN 51007, ASTM E 474, ASTM D 3418).
  • DSC is a comparative measurement method that enables the determination of heat quantities of physical and chemical processes. If a material is his
  • the method runs cyclically, so that after the first heating curve, a defined cooling takes place and then the sample is heated again in the specified temperature range. This gives two different kinds of information: In the first heating curve, all thermal effects, including the prehistory, are discernible. In the second heating curve, the history has been eliminated and the pure thermal behavior of the sample under defined cooling conditions can be evaluated.
  • the melting range of fatty alcohols, waxes or hydrocarbons between 4.5 ° C and 75 ° C according to DSC is the range determined in the first heating curve.
  • Fats and fat-like substances with a waxy consistency can also be used according to the invention as waxes. These include u.a. Fats (triglycerides), mono and diglycerides, natural and synthetic waxes, fatty and wax alcohols, esters of fatty alcohols and fatty acids and fatty acid amides or any mixtures of this substance.
  • Fats triglycerides
  • mono and diglycerides natural and synthetic waxes
  • fatty and wax alcohols esters of fatty alcohols and fatty acids and fatty acid amides or any mixtures of this substance.
  • waxes from the group of fats in particular from the group of natural waxes: Shorea Stenoptera Seed Butter, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Theobroma Cocoa (Cocoa) Seed Butter, Mango Butter, Hydrogenated Palm Kernel Glycerides, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides, Sunflower Seed Wax, Soybean Glycerides, Butyrospermum Parkii
  • Palmitic Acid Stearic Acid
  • the fatty alcohols used are preferably C14 to C22 fatty alcohols.
  • the fatty alcohols are preferably selected from the group consisting of linear fatty alcohols, especially myristyl (C14H 30 O), cetyl alcohol (or palmityl) (C 6 H 34 0), stearyl alcohol (or
  • Octadecyl C 8 H 38 0
  • cetyl stearyl alcohol cetearyl alcohol
  • behenyl alcohol lanolin alcohol
  • lanolin alcohol a mixture of the alcohols cetyl alcohol hexadecanol
  • stearyl alcohol octadecanol
  • the proportion of total C 14-22 fatty alcohols is advantageously from 0.5 to 14% by weight, in particular from 7 to 9% by weight, or in particular from 0.5 to 5%, based on the total mass of the preparation.
  • Hydrocarbon gels or mixtures of liquid and solid paraffin hydrocarbons are preferably used as hydrocarbon mixtures.
  • the content of solid hydrocarbons in the hydrocarbon mixture is preferably between 1 and 50%, particularly preferably between 10 and 30%.
  • Advantageous is the use of
  • Hydrocarbon mixtures which form fringe micelles or paracrystalline structures.
  • the proportion of the total hydrocarbon mixture is advantageously 1 to 50 wt.%, In particular 20 to 30 wt.%, Based on the total mass of the preparation.
  • Fatty alcohol, in particular two or three fatty alcohols, according to the invention are necessarily included in the preparation.
  • one or more waxes are added to the preparation.
  • a hydrocarbon mixture of liquid and solid hydrocarbons which are liquid at room temperature may also be added.
  • the preparation comprises all three building blocks, fatty alcohols, waxes and
  • the preparation and preparation according to the invention may then be admixed with cosmetic or dermatological substances known to the person skilled in the art, the addition of which may not impair the skin-conditioning properties of the preparation obtainable.
  • cosmetic or dermatological substances known to the person skilled in the art, the addition of which may not impair the skin-conditioning properties of the preparation obtainable.
  • thickeners, fillers and neutralizing agents are added to the preparations.
  • Thickeners are advantageously suitable for stabilizing the system and enhance the skin-conditioning properties and the special skin feel of the preparations according to the invention.
  • aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinat is preferably added, which also leads to an optimization of the skin feel by the skin protection film acts a little more velvety.
  • Sodium hydroxide solution is advantageously added as a neutralizing agent so that the thickeners can form their gel network and a stable system is formed.
  • the preparation according to the invention is emulsifier-free. That the optionally acting as emulsifying polyacrylic acid polymers are not understood according to the invention as emulsifiers.
  • Emulgatorhin also includes a minimum content of additional emulsifiers of less than 1 wt.%, Based on the total mass of the preparation, which may be included for example by impurities or entrainment. The influence on the product performance may be irrelevant in these quantity ranges.
  • Polyacrylic acid polymers are understood as meaning the polymers of acrylic and / or methacrylic acid known in cosmetics and acrylate crosspolymers.
  • these are high molecular weight polymers (macromolecules) (> 1 Mg / mole) composed of a backbone of polyacrylic acid and small amounts
  • Polyalkenylether cross-links exist. They are also referred to as carbomers. These water-soluble or dispersible polymers can cause a significant increase in viscosity in the liquid in which they are dissolved or dispersed. This is caused by the formation of carbomer microgels in the water.
  • Particularly preferred polyacrylic acid polymers are, in addition to the carbomers, those acrylate crosspolymers which exert a polymeric emulsifier action.
  • Polymer emulsifiers are mainly high polyacrylic acid polymers
  • emulsifying polyacrylic acid polymers have a small lipophilic portion in addition to the hydrophilic body.
  • acrylate crosspolymers which have the INCI name "Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer" have and among the
  • the polyacrylic acid polymers are particularly preferably selected from the group of acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers and / or carbomers. Especially preferred are acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer Pemulen® TR-1, e.g. from Lubrizol and Carbopol® 3128 from Lubrizol.
  • a specific combination of polyacrylic acid polymers having an emulsifying action such as the Pemulen TR-1 with other polyacrylic acid polymers, such as Carbopol 3128, which improve the sensory properties and ensure the stability of the preparation, especially at higher temperatures, and a connection with free water.
  • Particularly preferred herein is a combination of three polyacrylic acid polymers wherein a polyacrylic acid polymer has an emulsifying effect, e.g. the pemulen TR-1 or pemulen TR-2, with other polyacrylic acid containing the sensory
  • the preparation according to the invention therefore advantageously comprises at least three polyacrylic acid polymers, in particular three polyacrylic acid polymers, which differ in their properties.
  • the proportion of total polyacrylic acid polymers is preferably 0.05 to 2 wt.%, In particular 0.2 to 1 wt.%, Based on the total mass of the preparation.
  • two polyacrylic acid polymers or three polyacrylic acid polymers are understood to mean that one polyacrylic acid polymer differs from the other in at least one property.
  • the substance group acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers comprises, for example, the commercial products pemulen TR-1 or TR-2.
  • Carbomers are differentiated, for example, into types A, B and C. Differences here are, for example, their gels with different viscosities (United States Pharmacopoeia, USP). Also essential to the invention and therefore preferred is a proportion of waxes or preferably a mixture of liquid and solid hydrocarbons having a melting range of 4.5 to 75 ° C, in particular up to 55 ° C according to DSC.
  • Preparations according to the invention may be added. Otherwise, the stability is more difficult to adjust due to the absence of emulsifiers.
  • lipids is used as a generic term for fats, oils, waxes and the like, as is well known to the person skilled in the art. Also, the terms “oil phase ,, and” lipid phase , are used interchangeably.
  • oils and fats differ in their polarity. It is proposed to assume the interfacial tension against water as a measure of the polarity index of an oil or an oil phase. In this case, the lower the interfacial tension between this oil phase and water, the greater the polarity of the relevant oil phase. According to the invention, the interfacial tension is considered as a possible measure of the polarity of a given oil component.
  • the interfacial tension is the force acting on an imaginary line of one meter length located in the interface between two phases.
  • the physical unit for this interfacial tension is calculated classically by the force / length relationship and is usually expressed in mN / m (millinewtons divided by meters). It has a positive connotation if it tries to reduce the interface. In the opposite case, it has a negative sign.
  • the preparation according to the invention makes it possible for the first time to apply care in the shower and to apply active ingredients during the showering process.
  • the preparations according to the invention are advantageously formulated only with preservatives which have a water solubility of more than 0.75% at 20 ° C.
  • the preparations according to the invention are furthermore preferably also free of surfactants.
  • Surfactants are substances that are the surface tension of a liquid or the
  • Surfactants cause two actually immiscible liquids, such as oil and water, can be dispersed. Furthermore, surfactants are described as amphiphilic substances that can dissolve organic, nonpolar substances in water. Due to their specific molecular structure, they provide at least one hydrophilic and one hydrophobic one
  • hydrophilic fractions of a surfactant molecule are usually polar functional groups, for example -COO " , -OSO 3 2" , -SO 3 " , while the hydrophobic moieties generally represent nonpolar hydrocarbon radicals
  • Anionic surfactants generally have carboxylate, sulfate or sulfonate groups as functional groups. In aqueous solution they form negatively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral medium. Cationic surfactants are almost exclusively characterized by the presence of a quaternary ammonium group. In aqueous solution, they form positively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Amphoteric surfactants contain both anionic and cationic groups and behave accordingly in aqueous solution depending on the pH as anionic or cationic surfactants. They have a positive charge in a strongly acidic environment and a negative charge in an alkaline environment.
  • washing-active substances such as, for example, cationic surfactants, in particular quaternary ammonium compounds.
  • a detergent substance is used in detergents, dishwashing detergents, shampoos, shower gels and denotes the proportion of the formulation which influences the washing or cleaning performance.
  • Substances increase the "solubility" of fat and dirt particles in water that adhere to the laundry or body, they can be of natural or synthetic origin and are classified according to the nature of their charge in anionic, cationic, ampholytic or nonionic.
  • Emulsifiers cause two immiscible liquids (for example, oil in water) to mix together to form an emulsion. Due to the amphiphilic character, they penetrate into the oil with their fat-soluble part. Through the hydrophilic part For example, the oil droplets produced by stirring can be dispersed in the aqueous environment
  • Emulsifiers and surfactants can damage the skin's barrier layer.
  • Preparations are therefore added neither emulsifiers nor surfactants, so it is advantageous to dispense with the addition of additional washing-active substances.
  • the preparation skin moisturizer, moisturizer, added as an active ingredient.
  • the preparations are used on wet skin and especially for shaving.
  • the preparation according to the invention can be used for skin conditioning.
  • the protective film that forms is ideally at least 1 ⁇ m thick (measured according to IR-ATR measurement technology) and / or does not comprise substances which damage the skin barrier, in particular no emulsifiers, surfactants, PEG 's and / or organohalogen compounds.
  • Preferred embodiments of the preparations according to the invention comprise one or more waxes, a hydrocarbon mixture and an active ingredient from the group of skin moisturizing agents, wherein the fatty alcohols used are myristyl, cetearyl and / or stearyl alcohols, wax Cera Microcristallina and as the hydrocarbon mixture paraffin liquid.
  • Glycerin as well as Ubichinon active ingredient Q10 for skin care and a cooling active substance such as menthol, are advantageous in this preparation as skin moisturizing agent.
  • This triple combination of active ingredients creates a pleasant skin feel and care during both showering and prolonged skin care.
  • sodium hydroxide is preferably contained.
  • Myristyl alcohol 1, 0000 1, 0000 1, 0000 2,0000
  • Phenoxyethanol 0.5000 0.5000 0.5000 0.4000 0.4000
  • Methylisothiazolinone 0.0900 0.0900 0.0900 0.0800 0.0800
  • Carbomer (Carbopol 981) 0,0200 0,0200 0,0200 0,0200 0,0200 0,0200 0,0200
  • Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract 0.0010 0.0250 0.1000

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  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
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Abstract

L'invention concerne une préparation cosmétique ou dermatologique de conditionnement de la peau, sans émulsifiant, qui contient des substances actives.
EP14755810.0A 2013-08-29 2014-08-25 Préparation cosmétique ou dermatologique de conditionnement de la peau, sans émulsifiant, contenant des substances actives Ceased EP3038591A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE201310217244 DE102013217244A1 (de) 2013-08-29 2013-08-29 Emulgatorfreie, hautkonditionierende und wirkstoffhaltige kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitung
DE201420001438 DE202014001438U1 (de) 2013-08-29 2014-02-19 Emulgatorfreie, hautkonditionierende und wirkstoffhaltige kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitung
DE201420001570 DE202014001570U1 (de) 2013-08-29 2014-02-24 Emulgatorfreie, hautkonditionierende und wirkstoffhaltigekosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitung
PCT/EP2014/067974 WO2015028417A1 (fr) 2013-08-29 2014-08-25 Préparation cosmétique ou dermatologique de conditionnement de la peau, sans émulsifiant, contenant des substances actives

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EP3038591A1 true EP3038591A1 (fr) 2016-07-06

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US (1) US10617630B2 (fr)
EP (1) EP3038591A1 (fr)
DE (3) DE102013217244A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2015028417A1 (fr)

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AU2018333932B2 (en) 2017-09-13 2024-05-02 Living Proof, Inc. Long lasting cosmetic compositions
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JP7214730B2 (ja) 2017-11-20 2023-01-30 リビング プルーフ インコーポレイテッド 長期持続性の化粧品性能を達成するための特性
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Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
US10617630B2 (en) 2020-04-14
WO2015028417A1 (fr) 2015-03-05
US20160220475A1 (en) 2016-08-04
DE102013217244A1 (de) 2015-03-05
DE202014001438U1 (de) 2014-03-05
DE202014001570U1 (de) 2014-03-27

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