EP3038591A1

EP3038591A1 - Emulsifier-free, skin conditioning and active ingredient-containing cosmetic or dermatological preparation

Info

Publication number: EP3038591A1
Application number: EP14755810.0A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Cathrin Scherner; Inken GROTH; Magdalena VON WEDEL-PARLOW
Original assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Current assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Priority date: 2013-08-29
Filing date: 2014-08-25
Publication date: 2016-07-06
Also published as: DE102013217244A1; WO2015028417A1; DE202014001438U1; DE202014001570U1; US10617630B2; US20160220475A1

Abstract

The invention relates to an emulsifier-free, skin conditioning cosmetic or dermatological preparation which contains active ingredients.

Description

Emulsifier-free, skin-conditioning and active ingredient-containing cosmetic or dermatological preparation

The invention comprises an emulsifier-free, skin-conditioning cosmetic or dermatological preparation with active ingredients. The preparation is suitable for application on wet skin without being completely rinsed off and thus allows the creaming and the application of skin care and / or during the shower

skin-protecting agents.

Applying under moist conditions, skincare under the shower, will

in summary understood as skin conditioning. This means, inter alia .:

1 . Use of a standard shower product to cleanse the skin, rinse off

2. Application / distribution of the preparation according to the invention on wet skin

3. Reapply with warm or cold water

4. Drying of the skin

WO 2013064391 A2 describes cosmetic or dermatological preparations which make it possible to apply cream under the shower.

Due to lack of time, many people want the most efficient

Skin care and simultaneous skin protection.

It is desirable to provide a preparation, on the one hand

designed to be skin-friendly and on the other hand opens up the possibility skin-protective and / or skin-protecting agents applied to the skin and can be used to save time under shower or on wet skin.

The invention is an emulsifier-free cosmetic or dermatological preparation comprising one or more polyacrylic acid polymers, one or more C14-22 fatty alcohols and one or more waxes and / or a hydrocarbon mixture and one or more active substances.

The preparation preferably comprises waxes, in particular Cera Microcristallina, in the range of more than 0.5% by weight, in particular more than 13% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation.

The preferred level refers to both individual waxes and preferably the total amount of multiple waxes.

Active ingredients according to the invention include all cosmetically or dermatologically active substances, in particular those substances which have a skin-care and / or skin-protecting property. The active ingredients may preferably be selected from the group of skin care substances, self-tanning agents, cooling substances, warming substances and / or whitening substances. In each case one or more active substances are preferably selected from only one of the abovementioned groups.

As skin-care substances, it is advantageous to choose those substances which make the skin supple and have a smoothing effect, i. reduce the roughness. As well as active ingredients that maintain the skin in a healthy state, avoid damaging effects on the skin due to external influences and / or moisturize.

As active ingredients, one or more may be selected from the group of cyclodextrin, ubiquinone, creatine, 1-methylhydantoin-2-imide, glycine soy germ extract, ascorbic acid (vitamin C and its derivatives), ascorbyl palmitate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, pimpinella anisum Fruit Extract, Arctium Lappa Fruit Extract, Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Taurine, Foil Acid, Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Glucosylrutin and Isoquercitrin, Carnitine, Sodium Chloride, Glyceryl Glucoside, Climbazole, Piroctone Olamine, Oryzanol, BHT, Tocopherol, Vitamins, especially Vitamin E and A and their derivatives, Tocopheryl Acetate, Nelumbo Nucifera Leaf Extract, Caffeine, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Menthoxypropanediol, Menthane Carboxamide, Ethylpyridine,

Cyanomethylphenyl Menthane Carboxamide, Chelidonium Majus Extract, Salicylic Acid, 4-Butylresorcinol, Paullinia Cupana Seed Extract, Butyl Acrylate / Ethyltrimonium Chloride, Methacrylate / Styrene Copolymer, Octenidine HCl, Urea, Octadecenedioic Acid,

Dihydroxyacetones, Cholesterol, Ceramides 3, Silver Citrate, Arginine HCL, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Panthenol, Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), Retinyl Palmitate / Retinol, Biotin, Bisabolol, Menthol, Alanine, Allantoin, Pyrus Malus Star Extract, Acetyl Hydroxyproline, Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract, Zingerone, 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, Garcinia Cambogia Fruit Extract, epsilon-polylysine, raspberry ketone, alexidine, N- (4- (2,4-dihydroxyphenyl) thiazol-2-yl) isobutyramide, dihydromyricetine, silymarin, 3- ( 4-hydroxy-3-methoxy-phenyl) -1- (4-hydroxyphenyl) -propan-1-one, pyridoxine-3,4-cyclic phosphate, oxygen, dioic acid, glycerylglucose.

D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, folic acid and / or derivatives thereof, rucinol, panthenol, niacinamide, alpha-glucosylrutin, carnitine, carnosine, natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids, creatine, taurine, .beta.-alanine, 1 can be selected as preferred active ingredients -Methylhydantoin-2-imide, N- (4- (2,4-dihydroxyphenyl) thiazol-2-yl) isobutyramide, Glycine Soy Germ Extract, Pimpinella Anisum Fruit Extract, Arctium Lappa Fruit Extract, Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Glucosylrutin and

Isoquercitrin, Sodium Chloride, Glyceryl Glucoside, Climbazole, Piroctone Olamine,

Menthoxypropanediol, menthane carboxamides, ethylpyridines, cyanomethylphenyl, menthane carboxamides and / or 4-butylresorcinol. In particular, Q10 should be selected as active ingredient.

As a self-tanner advantageously used according to the invention, inter alia:

HC = 0 H ₂ C-OH

HC = 0 HC = 0 I I

II CH ₂ HC-OH

HC-OH c = o I I

II CH ₂ C = O

H ₂ C-OH H ₂ c-OH II

HC = 0 H ₂ C-OH

Glycerol aldehyde hydroxymethylglyoxal γ-dialdehyde erythrulose

6-aldo-D-fructose ninhydrin

Also to be mentioned is 5-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone (juglone) which is extracted from the shells of fresh walnuts

5-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone (juglone)

and 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone (Lawson) found in henna leaves.

2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone (Lawson)

Very particular preference according to the invention is the 1, 3-dihydroxyacetone (DHA), occurring in the human body trivalent sugars. H ₂ C-OH

I

C = O

I

H ₂ c -OH

1, 3-dihydroxyacetone (DHA)

The use of self-tanning substances as active ingredients in the preparation according to the invention allows a time-saving application and the entire body can be browned so easily for the first time.

As warming substances are the circulation stimulating substances, such as capsaicinoids as

Active ingredients known. The mode of action of these products is based on the one hand on the promotion of blood circulation in the affected areas and on the other on an influence on the metabolism. Capsaicin, for example, stimulates the release of substance P, a neuropeptide of eleven amino acids. This molecule actively engages in the

Pain cycle and contributes to a reduction in the perceived pain.

As circulation-promoting agents are preferably used

Capsaicinoids (0.01 - 0.20%)

Nonivamide (0.01-0.15%)

Vanilyl butyl ether (0.5 - 2.5%)

Nicotinic acid benzyl ester (0.5 - 4.0%)

Rosemary oil (0.5 - 5.0%)

Capsiate (vanilin ester) (0.5 - 2.5%)

Mustard oils (0.2 - 4.0%)

Further active ingredients to be used according to the invention are to be selected from the group of non-heating, anti-inflammatory agents from the field of non-steroidal antiinflammatory drugs (NSAIDs). In particular, these are aspirin (acetylsalicylic acid), diflunisal, salsalates, ibuprofen, etofenamate, dexibuprofen, naproxen, fenoprofen, ketoprofen, dexketoprofen, flurbiprofen, oxaprozin, loxoprofen, indomethacin, tolmetin, sulindac, etodolac, ketorolac, diclofenac, nabumetone, piroxicam, meloxicam , Tenoxicam, droxicam, lornoxicam, isoxicam, mefenamic acid, meclofenamic acid,

Flufenamic acid, tolfenamic acid, celecoxib, rofecoxib, valdecoxib, parecoxib,

Lumiracoxib, etoricoxib, firocoxib, licofelone, lysine clonixinate, hyperforin and / or figwort. Preference is given here to ibuprofen, diclofenac and its salts, indomethacin, flurbiprofen and etofenamate. Particularly preferred is the incorporation of one or more substances known for their long-lasting cooling properties, for example menthol and its derivatives, camphor, mint, eucalyptus, etc.

As a particularly preferred essential oil, the menthol has been found. Menthol is part of the well-known Japanese peppermint oil (CAS: 20747-49-3). The most important isomer is (-) - menthol. Menthol produced when rubbed on the skin due

Surface anesthetization and irritation of cold-sensitive nerves in migraine or the like a pleasant feeling of cold. Proven to show the affected

Skin but normal or elevated temperature.

Oleum Eucalypti, Oleum Menthae piperitae, Oleum camphoratum, Oleum Rosmarini, Oleum Thymi, Oleum pinis sibricum and Oleum Pini silverstris, as well as the terpenes 1, 8-cineol and levomethanol, as well as oleum Abietis albae, Oleum anisi, Oleum aurantii Floris, can also be used as further preferred essential oils , Oleum Bergamottae, Oleum Calendulae infusum, Oleum Caryophylli, Oleum Chamomillae, Oleum Cinnamomi ceylanici, Oleum Citri, Oleum

Citronellae, Oleum Cupressi, Oleum Cymbopogonis, Oleum Jecoris, Oleum Lavendulae, Oleum Macidis, Oleum Majoranae, Oleum Melaleucae viridiflorae, Oleum Melissae, Oleum Menthae arvensis, Oleum Millefolium, Oleum Myrrhae, Oleum myrtle, Oleum Pini sibricum, Oleum Pinisilvestris, Oleum Salviae, Oleum Santali, Oleum Terebinthinae rectificat, Oleum Valerianae and Oleum Zingiberis are used.

The essential oils are used individually or in combination with others in a proportion of a total of 0.001 to 10 wt.%, In particular 0.01 to 1 wt.% In the preparation, based on the total mass of the preparation without propellant.

Advantageously, substances which are known for warming properties, such as, for example, HotAct (vanillyl butyl ether) and / or capsicum, can also be used instead of the substances having a seemingly cooling effect.

Whitening fabrics are substances for skin whitening. This refers to the bleaching or coating of human skin to make it lighter for cosmetic purposes.

Preferred whitening substances are rucinol, hydroquinones, kojic acid, liquorice root extract, N- (4- (2,4-dihydroxyphenyl) thiazol-2-yl) isobutyramide, Camu Camu, licoriche, acerola or vitamin C.

A distinction is made between tyrosinase inhibitors and melanin synthesis inhibitors, since the inhibition of tyrosinase results in the inhibition of melanin synthesis, but the inhibition of melanin synthesis does not necessarily mean tyrosinase inhibition. For example, rucinol, hydroquinones and kojic acid also inhibit tyrosinase.

The use concentration in parts by weight of one or more of the active ingredients in the applied preparation is preferably up to 25% by weight, in particular in the range between 0.001% by weight and 20% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation.

According to the invention, it is advantageous to choose the active compounds from the group of lipophilic compounds.

Since the basic preparation according to the invention is composed of predominantly lipophilic substances, it is thus possible to achieve a longer retention on the skin.

The preparation according to the invention preferably comprises as active ingredients Q10 and menthol.

In addition to a cooling effect during and after showering skin-caring effects are achieved at the same time.

Surprisingly, the remaining of active ingredients after rinsing and drying on the skin by the preparation according to the invention succeeds. The application of the combination of special fatty alcohols, waxes and advantageously one or more film formers leads to a skin protection and / or skin care even under the shower.

The preparations according to the invention advantageously comprise one or more film formers.

These film formers are advantageously selected from the group hexadecene copolymer, trimethylsiloxysilicate, polypropylsilsesquioxane, polysilicone-25,

Acrylate copolymer, polyurethane, methacrylate, polyglyceryl stearate, dilinoleate crosspolymer, alkyl acrylate / methacrylic acid crosspolymer, IPDI copolymer, in particular

VP / Hexadecenes Copolymer, Octyldodecyl Citrate Crosspolymer, Trimethylsiloxysilicate / Polypropylsilsesquioxane, Polysilicone-25, Ammonium Acrylate Copolymer,

Acrylate copolymer, polyurethane-2 and polymethyl methacrylate, polyglyceryl stearate /

Isostearate dilinoleate - crosspolymer, octadecene / MA copolymer (and) methyl acetylricinoleate (and) diisooctyl adipate, trimethylsiloxysilicate, polyurethane-34, C8-22 alkyl

Acrylates / Methacrylic Acid Crosspolymer and / or Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer.

The proportion of film formers is advantageously selected in the range of 0.1% by weight, in particular 0.5% by weight to 10% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation.

In a comparison, the protective film that forms on the skin is examined, once after the application of a rinse off product with integrated skin care aspects (Nivea cream soft shower gel) alone and once after application of the same product (Nivea cream soft shower gel) and subsequent application of the inventive preparation. After both applications, the skin is rinsed with water. The skin refatting measurements were made by IR imaging. The measurement technique is called IR-ATR (InfraRed-Attenuated Total Reflectance).

It was found that only after application of the preparation according to the invention does a protective film visible by means of the measurement technique mentioned remain on the skin and can be detected. Detection is via the intensity of the hydrocarbon IR bands (CH-IR bands).

The protective film of the invention comprises a skin-forming film comprising one or more active ingredients. Advantageous and thus longer in the film and thus remaining on the skin are lipophilic drugs to choose.

The skin conditioning according to the invention comprises moisturizing

Conditions, in particular the skin care in the shower, whereby a protective film remains even after rinsing on the skin. The protective film can be detected by means of IR-ATR measurement technology and ideally has a thickness of at least 1 μm to 10 μm.

In particular, the skin conditioning according to the invention is characterized in that the protective film on the skin comprises one or more active substances, one or more lipids and one or more skin moisturizing agents and no skin barrier damaging substances, in particular no emulsifiers and / or surfactants, are included.

Only this remaining on the skin film allows the application and also the whereabouts of active ingredients on the skin.

In the preparation according to the invention are one or more fatty alcohols and at least one additional wax and / or mixture of liquid and solid

Hydrocarbons, having a melting range of 5 ° C to 75 ° C, preferably up to 55 ° C (according to DSC), given together, in particular melted.

That Advantageously, at least one wax is present in addition to at least one fatty alcohol or, in addition to fatty alcohol, at least one mixture of liquid and solid is present

Contain hydrocarbons. Ideally, it contains fatty alcohol, wax and a mixture of hydrocarbons.

Preferred as fatty alcohols are myristyl, cetearyl and / or stearyl alcohols, as waxes Cera Microcristallina, Coco-Glyceride, C18-36 Acid Triglyceride, Synthetic Wax, Cera Alba, Paraffin, Copernicia Cerifera Cera, C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate,

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Olus oil, C20-40 alcohol and / or beeswax and as a hydrocarbon mixture to choose Paraffinum Liquidum.

Preference is given to Cera Microcristallina. Preferred use concentrations of the wax or wax is in the range of 0.5 to 20 wt.%, Based on the total mass of the preparation.

The fatty alcohols, waxes and hydrocarbon mixtures advantageously all have a melting range of 5 ° C. to 75 ° C., preferably up to 55 ° C. (according to DSC).

DSC (Differential Scanning Calorimetry) is a thermal method for measuring emitted / absorbed heat quantity of a sample during isothermal operation, heating or cooling (see DIN 53765, DIN 51007, ASTM E 474, ASTM D 3418). DSC is a comparative measurement method that enables the determination of heat quantities of physical and chemical processes. If a material is his

physical state changes, such as Melting or transformation of one crystal form into another, or if it reacts chemically, heat is absorbed or released. These amounts of heat can be measured quantitatively with the help of DSC. The method runs cyclically, so that after the first heating curve, a defined cooling takes place and then the sample is heated again in the specified temperature range. This gives two different kinds of information: In the first heating curve, all thermal effects, including the prehistory, are discernible. In the second heating curve, the history has been eliminated and the pure thermal behavior of the sample under defined cooling conditions can be evaluated. The melting range of fatty alcohols, waxes or hydrocarbons between 4.5 ° C and 75 ° C according to DSC is the range determined in the first heating curve.

Fats and fat-like substances with a waxy consistency can also be used according to the invention as waxes. These include u.a. Fats (triglycerides), mono and diglycerides, natural and synthetic waxes, fatty and wax alcohols, esters of fatty alcohols and fatty acids and fatty acid amides or any mixtures of this substance.

Particularly preferred are the waxes from the group of fats, in particular from the group of natural waxes: Shorea Stenoptera Seed Butter, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Theobroma Cocoa (Cocoa) Seed Butter, Mango Butter, Hydrogenated Palm Kernel Glycerides, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides, Sunflower Seed Wax, Soybean Glycerides, Butyrospermum Parkii

Unsaponifiables,, Wool Wax, Cera Alba, Beeswax, Sugar Cane Wax, Cera Carnauba, Candelilla Wax, Japan Wax, Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil, Shellac Wax, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Hydrogenated Soybean Oil,

from the group of synthetic waxes, in particular:

Cera Microcristallina, Synthetic Beeswax, Synthetic Wax, Polyethylene, Paraffin Wax, Ceresin, Ozokerite from the group of fatty acids, in particular:

Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid,

from the group of esters of fatty acids, in particular from

Cetearyl Nonanoates, Methyl Palmitates, Glyceryl Tribehenates, Glyceryl Laurates, Glyceryl Stearates, Cetyl Palmitates; Shea Butter Oleyl Esters, PEG-8 Beeswax

selected.

Other preferred additives are Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cocos Nucifera Oil, and / or Cananga Odorate Flower Oil.

The fatty alcohols used are preferably C14 to C22 fatty alcohols. The fatty alcohols are preferably selected from the group consisting of linear fatty alcohols, especially myristyl (C14H ₃₀ O), cetyl alcohol (or palmityl) (C ₆ H ₃₄ 0), stearyl alcohol (or

Octadecyl) (C ₈ H ₃₈ 0) and cetyl stearyl alcohol (cetearyl alcohol), behenyl alcohol, lanolin alcohol, (a mixture of the alcohols cetyl alcohol hexadecanol) and stearyl alcohol (octadecanol).

The proportion of total C 14-22 fatty alcohols is advantageously from 0.5 to 14% by weight, in particular from 7 to 9% by weight, or in particular from 0.5 to 5%, based on the total mass of the preparation.

Hydrocarbon gels or mixtures of liquid and solid paraffin hydrocarbons are preferably used as hydrocarbon mixtures. The content of solid hydrocarbons in the hydrocarbon mixture is preferably between 1 and 50%, particularly preferably between 10 and 30%. Advantageous is the use of

Hydrocarbon mixtures which form fringe micelles or paracrystalline structures.

The proportion of the total hydrocarbon mixture is advantageously 1 to 50 wt.%, In particular 20 to 30 wt.%, Based on the total mass of the preparation.

Fatty alcohol, in particular two or three fatty alcohols, according to the invention are necessarily included in the preparation. In addition, one or more waxes are added to the preparation. Preferably, instead of the wax, a hydrocarbon mixture of liquid and solid hydrocarbons which are liquid at room temperature may also be added.

Ideally, the preparation comprises all three building blocks, fatty alcohols, waxes and

Hydrocarbon mixture.

The preparation and preparation according to the invention may then be admixed with cosmetic or dermatological substances known to the person skilled in the art, the addition of which may not impair the skin-conditioning properties of the preparation obtainable. Advantageously, thickeners, fillers and neutralizing agents are added to the preparations.

Thickeners are advantageously suitable for stabilizing the system and enhance the skin-conditioning properties and the special skin feel of the preparations according to the invention.

As a filler, aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinat is preferably added, which also leads to an optimization of the skin feel by the skin protection film acts a little more velvety.

Sodium hydroxide solution is advantageously added as a neutralizing agent so that the thickeners can form their gel network and a stable system is formed.

The preparation according to the invention is emulsifier-free. That the optionally acting as emulsifying polyacrylic acid polymers are not understood according to the invention as emulsifiers.

In other words, in addition to the polyacrylic acid polymers, no further emulsifiers are added to the formulation.

Emulgatorfrei also includes a minimum content of additional emulsifiers of less than 1 wt.%, Based on the total mass of the preparation, which may be included for example by impurities or entrainment. The influence on the product performance may be irrelevant in these quantity ranges.

However, preference is given to a content of emulsifiers of 0% by weight.

Polyacrylic acid polymers are understood as meaning the polymers of acrylic and / or methacrylic acid known in cosmetics and acrylate crosspolymers.

Preferably, these are high molecular weight polymers (macromolecules) (> 1 Mg / mole) composed of a backbone of polyacrylic acid and small amounts

Polyalkenylether cross-links exist. They are also referred to as carbomers. These water-soluble or dispersible polymers can cause a significant increase in viscosity in the liquid in which they are dissolved or dispersed. This is caused by the formation of carbomer microgels in the water.

Particularly preferred polyacrylic acid polymers are, in addition to the carbomers, those acrylate crosspolymers which exert a polymeric emulsifier action.

Polymer emulsifiers are mainly high polyacrylic acid polymers

Molecular weight. These emulsifying polyacrylic acid polymers have a small lipophilic portion in addition to the hydrophilic body. For the purposes of the present invention, very particular preference is given to acrylate crosspolymers which have the INCI name "Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer" have and among the

Trade names PemulenTR-1 and Pemulen TR-2 and Carbopol 1342, Carbopol 1382 and Carbopol ETD 2020 are available from NOVEON.

The polyacrylic acid polymers are particularly preferably selected from the group of acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers and / or carbomers. Especially preferred are acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer Pemulen® TR-1, e.g. from Lubrizol and Carbopol® 3128 from Lubrizol.

In this case, according to the invention, a specific combination of polyacrylic acid polymers having an emulsifying action, such as the Pemulen TR-1 with other polyacrylic acid polymers, such as Carbopol 3128, which improve the sensory properties and ensure the stability of the preparation, especially at higher temperatures, and a connection with free water.

Particularly preferred herein is a combination of three polyacrylic acid polymers wherein a polyacrylic acid polymer has an emulsifying effect, e.g. the pemulen TR-1 or pemulen TR-2, with other polyacrylic acid containing the sensory

To improve properties and stability of the preparation, especially at higher temperatures (e.g., Carbopol 3128) and a polyacrylic acid polymer, which improve the sensory properties upon ingestion of free water (e.g., Carbopol 981).

The preparation according to the invention therefore advantageously comprises at least three polyacrylic acid polymers, in particular three polyacrylic acid polymers, which differ in their properties.

The proportion of total polyacrylic acid polymers is preferably 0.05 to 2 wt.%, In particular 0.2 to 1 wt.%, Based on the total mass of the preparation.

The combination of at least two polyacrylic acid polymers with at least two C 14-22 fatty alcohols for improved stabilization of the preparation and, above all, the skin feel when used on wet / moist skin has not proven to be advantageous

uncomfortable, not waxy, dull or squeaky.

According to the invention, two polyacrylic acid polymers or three polyacrylic acid polymers are understood to mean that one polyacrylic acid polymer differs from the other in at least one property. The substance group acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers comprises, for example, the commercial products pemulen TR-1 or TR-2.

Carbomers are differentiated, for example, into types A, B and C. Differences here are, for example, their gels with different viscosities (United States Pharmacopoeia, USP). Also essential to the invention and therefore preferred is a proportion of waxes or preferably a mixture of liquid and solid hydrocarbons having a melting range of 4.5 to 75 ° C, in particular up to 55 ° C according to DSC.

As oils may optionally be advantageous nonpolar to medium polar lipids in the

Preparations according to the invention may be added. Otherwise, the stability is more difficult to adjust due to the absence of emulsifiers.

In the context of the present disclosure, the term "lipids" is used as a generic term for fats, oils, waxes and the like, as is well known to the person skilled in the art. Also, the terms "oil phase ,, and" lipid phase ,, are used interchangeably.

Among other things, oils and fats differ in their polarity. It is proposed to assume the interfacial tension against water as a measure of the polarity index of an oil or an oil phase. In this case, the lower the interfacial tension between this oil phase and water, the greater the polarity of the relevant oil phase. According to the invention, the interfacial tension is considered as a possible measure of the polarity of a given oil component.

The interfacial tension is the force acting on an imaginary line of one meter length located in the interface between two phases. The physical unit for this interfacial tension is calculated classically by the force / length relationship and is usually expressed in mN / m (millinewtons divided by meters). It has a positive connotation if it tries to reduce the interface. In the opposite case, it has a negative sign.

The preparation according to the invention makes it possible for the first time to apply care in the shower and to apply active ingredients during the showering process.

The preparations according to the invention are advantageously formulated only with preservatives which have a water solubility of more than 0.75% at 20 ° C.

Due to the lack of emulsifiers, destabilization and crystallization can otherwise occur.

The preparations according to the invention are furthermore preferably also free of surfactants.

Surfactants are substances that are the surface tension of a liquid or the

Reduce interfacial tension between two phases and the formation of

Enable or support dispersions. Surfactants cause two actually immiscible liquids, such as oil and water, can be dispersed. Furthermore, surfactants are described as amphiphilic substances that can dissolve organic, nonpolar substances in water. Due to their specific molecular structure, they provide at least one hydrophilic and one hydrophobic one

Part of the molecule, for a reduction of the surface tension of the water, the

Moisturizing the skin, facilitating the removal of dirt and solution, a

easy rinsing and - as desired - for foam control.

The hydrophilic fractions of a surfactant molecule are usually polar functional groups, for example -COO ^" , -OSO ₃ ^2" , -SO ₃ ^" , while the hydrophobic moieties generally represent nonpolar hydrocarbon radicals

Generally classified by type and charge of the hydrophilic part of the molecule. Here four groups can be distinguished:

Anionic surfactants,

Cationic surfactants,

• amphoteric surfactants and

• nonionic surfactants.

Anionic surfactants generally have carboxylate, sulfate or sulfonate groups as functional groups. In aqueous solution they form negatively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral medium. Cationic surfactants are almost exclusively characterized by the presence of a quaternary ammonium group. In aqueous solution, they form positively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Amphoteric surfactants contain both anionic and cationic groups and behave accordingly in aqueous solution depending on the pH as anionic or cationic surfactants. They have a positive charge in a strongly acidic environment and a negative charge in an alkaline environment.

Furthermore, washing-active substances, such as, for example, cationic surfactants, in particular quaternary ammonium compounds, are known. A detergent substance is used in detergents, dishwashing detergents, shampoos, shower gels and denotes the proportion of the formulation which influences the washing or cleaning performance. Detergent Active

Substances increase the "solubility" of fat and dirt particles in water that adhere to the laundry or body, they can be of natural or synthetic origin and are classified according to the nature of their charge in anionic, cationic, ampholytic or nonionic.

Emulsifiers cause two immiscible liquids (for example, oil in water) to mix together to form an emulsion. Due to the amphiphilic character, they penetrate into the oil with their fat-soluble part. Through the hydrophilic part For example, the oil droplets produced by stirring can be dispersed in the aqueous environment

Character.

Emulsifiers and surfactants can damage the skin's barrier layer. The

Preparations are therefore added neither emulsifiers nor surfactants, so it is advantageous to dispense with the addition of additional washing-active substances.

Advantageously, the preparations skin moisturizer, moisturizer, added as an active ingredient.

The preparations are used on wet skin and especially for shaving.

The preparation according to the invention can be used for skin conditioning.

It allows the production of a skin protection film after application of the preparation on the skin and subsequent rinsing with water.

The protective film that forms is ideally at least 1 μm thick (measured according to IR-ATR measurement technology) and / or does not comprise substances which damage the skin barrier, in particular no emulsifiers, surfactants, PEG ^'s and / or organohalogen compounds.

Preferred embodiments of the preparations according to the invention comprise one or more waxes, a hydrocarbon mixture and an active ingredient from the group of skin moisturizing agents, wherein the fatty alcohols used are myristyl, cetearyl and / or stearyl alcohols, wax Cera Microcristallina and as the hydrocarbon mixture paraffin liquid.

Glycerin, as well as Ubichinon active ingredient Q10 for skin care and a cooling active substance such as menthol, are advantageous in this preparation as skin moisturizing agent.

This triple combination of active ingredients creates a pleasant skin feel and care during both showering and prolonged skin care.

As a neutralizing agent, sodium hydroxide is preferably contained.

In the case of restrictions on substances which are preferred, whether lipids, waxes, active substances or film formers or further preferred components, their preferred ranges of proportions then also relate to the individual constituents then selected. The others, which are excluded from the restriction, will no longer be included in the listed proportions.

The following examples illustrate the preparation according to the invention

to obtain preparations according to the invention.

The numerical values are parts by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation. Content substance 1 2 3 4 5

Cera Microcristallina 25,000 16,5000 16,5000 35,000 45,000

Paraffinium Liquidum 8.5000 8.5000

Myristyl alcohol 1, 0000 1, 0000 1, 0000 2,0000

Cetearyl alcohol 5,0000 5,0000 5,0000 4,0000 4,0000

Stearyl alcohol 2,0000 2,0000 2,0000 3,0000 3,0000

Hydrogenated coconut glycerides 3.0000 3.0000 3.0000 2.0000 2.0000

Almond oil 0,3500 0,7000

Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate 1, 0000 1, 0000 1, 0000 1, 0000 1, 0000

Perfume 0.8000 0.7000 1, 0000 0.7000 0.7000

Glycerol 5,1000 5,1000 5,1000 15,100 10,100

Sodium hydroxide solution 45% 0.1600 0.1600 0.1600 0.1600 0.1600

Phenoxyethanol 0.5000 0.5000 0.5000 0.4000 0.4000

Methylisothiazolinone 0.0900 0.0900 0.0900 0.0800 0.0800

Acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylates

Crosspolymer (Carbopol 3128) 0.1000 0.1000 0.1000 0.1200

Carbomer (Carbopol 981) 0,0200 0,0200 0,0200 0,0200 0,0200

Acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylates

Crosspolymer (Pemulen TR-1) 0.1000 0.1000 0.1000 0.1200 0.1400

Sea salt 0,0100 0,0100 0,0100 0,0500

Q10 0.0100 0.0050 0.0300 0.005 0.0010

4-butylresorcinol 0.3000 0.0010 0.1000 0.0200

N- (4- (2,4-dihydroxyphenyl) thiazol-2-yl) isobutyramide 0.1000 0.0250 0.0100

Creatine 0,5000 1, 0000 0,0010

Niacinamide 0.2000 0.0010 0.1000

Magnolia Officinalis Bark

Extract 0.5000 0.1500 0.2500 Arctium Lappa Fruit Extract 0.1000 0.5000 0.0100

Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract 0.0010 0.0250 0.1000

1, 3-dihydroxyacetone 0.1500 1, 0000 3.5000 0.8000 2,000

Glyceryl Glucosides 5.0000 0.1000 1, 5000 0.0100

Menthoxypropanediol 0.1000 1, 5000 0.6000 0.2000 0.0100

Panthenol 0,0100

Glycine Soy Germ Extract 0.2000 0.0500

Glycyrrhetinic acid 0.0100 0.1000 0.0050

Water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

Trisodium EDTA 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10

Q10 0.01 0.005 0.03 0.0045 0.005

4-butylresorcinol 0.30 0.001 0.10

N- (4- (2,4-dihydroxyphenyl) thiazol-2-yl) isobutyramide 0.10 0.025 0.01

Creatine 0.50 1, 00 0.001

Niacinamide 0.20 0.001

Menthol 0.30

Aqua ad100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad100

Claims

claims

1 . An emulsifier-free cosmetic or dermatological preparation comprising one or more polyacrylic acid polymers, one or more C 14-22 fatty alcohols and one or more waxes and / or a hydrocarbon mixture, characterized in that one or more active substances are contained.

2. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that the wax or waxes to a proportion of more than 0.5 wt.%, Based on the total mass of the preparation, are selected.

3. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that are selected as fatty alcohols myristyl, cetearyl and / or stearyl alcohols.

4. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that as wax Cera Microcristallina, Coco glyceride, C18-36 acid triglyceride, synthetic wax, Cera Alba, paraffin, Copernicia cerifera Cera, C18-38 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate, Butyrospermum Parkii butter, Olus oil, C20-40 alcohol and / or beeswax

5. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that one or more film formers are included.

6. Preparation according to claim 5, characterized in that as a film former

Hexadecene copolymer, trimethylsiloxysilicate, polypropylsilsesquioxane, polysilicone-25, acrylate copolymer, polyurethane, methacrylate, polyglyceryl stearate, dilinoleate crosspolymer, alkyl acrylate / methacrylic acid crosspolymer, IPDI copolymer, especially VP / hexadecenes copolymer, octyldodecyl citrate crosspolymer, trimethylsiloxysilicate / polypropylsilsesquioxane, polysilicone-25 , Ammonium acrylate copolymer, acrylate copolymer, polyurethane-2 and polymethyl methacrylate,

Polyglyceryl stearate / isostearate dilinoleate - crosspolymer, octadecene / MA copolymer (and) methyl acetylricinoleate (and) diisooctyl adipate, trimethylsiloxysilicate, polyurethane-34, C8-22 alkyl acrylate / methacrylic acid crosspolymer and / or castor oil / IPDI copolymer.

7. Preparation according to claim 5 or 6, characterized in that as a film former Castor Oil / IPDI copolymer, trimethylsiloxysilicate / Polypropylsilsesquioxan and / or acrylate copolymer can be selected

8. Preparation according to claim 5, 6 or 7, characterized in that the or

Film former to a proportion of 0.1 to 10 wt.%, Based on the total mass of the preparation can be selected.

9. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that one or more active substances from the group of skin-care substances, the Self-tanning agents, the cooling substances, the warming substances and / or the skin lightening substances are selected.

10. Preparation according to claim 9, characterized in that one or more

Active substances from only one of the groups of skin-care substances, the

Self-tanning agents, the cooling substances, the warming substances and / or the skin lightening substances are selected.

1 1. A preparation according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that as active ingredient D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, folic acid and / or derivatives thereof, rucinol, panthenol, niacinamide, alpha-glucosylrutin, carnitine, carnosine, natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids, Creatine, Taurine, β-Alanine, 1-Methylhydantoin-2-Imide, N- (4- (2,4-Dihydroxyphenyl) thiazol-2-yl) isobutyramide, Glycine Soy Germ Extract, Pimpinella Anisum Fruit Extract, Arctium Lappa Fruit Extract , Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Glucosylrutin and Isoquercitrin, Sodium Chloride, Glyceryl Glucoside, Climbazole, Piroctone Olamine, Menthoxypropanediol, Menthane Carboxamide Ethylpyridine, Cyanomethylphenyl Menthane Carboxamide, 1, 3-Dihydroxyacetone, Glyceryl Glucose, Menthol and / or 4-butylresorcinol.

12. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that is selected as the active ingredient Q10.

13. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the active substances are lipophilic.

14. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that one or more skin moisturizing agents are included.

15. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation is free of surfactants.

16. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims comprising as active ingredients Q10 and menthol.

17. Use of the preparation according to one of the preceding claims on wet skin.