EP2934675A2 - Use of a product for keratin fibers, containing at least one specific polymer combination for improving the color retention of oxidative hair colorations - Google Patents

Use of a product for keratin fibers, containing at least one specific polymer combination for improving the color retention of oxidative hair colorations

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Publication number
EP2934675A2
EP2934675A2 EP13796033.2A EP13796033A EP2934675A2 EP 2934675 A2 EP2934675 A2 EP 2934675A2 EP 13796033 A EP13796033 A EP 13796033A EP 2934675 A2 EP2934675 A2 EP 2934675A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
copolymer
structural unit
weight
acid
alkyl radical
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP13796033.2A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Diane Metten
Bernd Richters
Rene Scheffler
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of EP2934675A2 publication Critical patent/EP2934675A2/en
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8164—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a carboxyl radical, and containing at least one other carboxyl radical in the molecule, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers, e.g. poly (methyl vinyl ether-co-maleic anhydride)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/004—Preparations used to protect coloured hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/432—Direct dyes
    • A61K2800/4324—Direct dyes in preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/594—Mixtures of polymers

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the use of a hair treatment composition containing a combination of at least one nonionic propylene oxide-modified starch with at least one film-forming and / or setting anionic polymer to improve the color retention of oxidative hair colorations and to corresponding methods of treating keratin-containing fibers.
  • all animal hair e.g. Wool, horsehair, angora hair, furs, feathers and products or textiles made from them.
  • the keratinic fibers are human hairs.
  • keratinic fibers for example human keratin fibers
  • dyeing compositions which contain, among other constituents, oxidation dye precursors, in particular oxidation bases ("developers") .
  • developers oxidation bases
  • couplers a second group of oxidation dye precursors
  • keratin fibers are dyed with the aid of direct dyes.
  • These direct-acting dyes are colored molecules that are absorbed by the surface of the keratin fibers.
  • the coloring of the keratinic fiber obtained by oxidation dyes or substantive dyes fades due to external influences such as light, but in particular due to repeated hair washing.
  • a first object of the present invention is therefore the use of an agent contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier
  • At least one copolymer A having at least one structural unit (A1), at least one structural unit (A2), at least one structural unit (A3) and at least one structural unit (A4),
  • R1 is an optionally heterofunctionalized alkyl radical
  • R2 is a hetero-functionalized alkyl radical other than R1;
  • R3 independently of one another is an optionally heterofunctionalized alkyl radical other than R1 and R2
  • copolymer A different from copolymer A having at least one structural unit (B1)
  • R 4 is an optionally heterofunctionalized alkyl radical
  • oxidatively colored keratin-containing fibers for improving the color content of oxidatively colored keratin-containing fibers, in particular oxidatively dyed human hair.
  • the improvement of the color content according to the invention comprises the preservation of the color when exposed to external influences.
  • the colorant thus includes, for example, phenomena such as the fastness to washing, lightfastness, rubfastness or perspiration fastness of oxidative hair dyeing.
  • the use according to the invention with regard to the color retention after washing of the keratin fibers has particular advantages.
  • the use according to inventive compositions for improving the wash fastness of oxidatively colored keratin-containing fibers, in particular oxidatively colored human hair, is therefore a preferred embodiment of the present application.
  • the agents according to the invention contain the active ingredients in a cosmetic carrier.
  • This cosmetic carrier is watery, alcoholic or watery-alcoholic.
  • aqueous-alcoholic carriers are water-containing compositions containing 3 to 70% by weight of a C 1 -C 4 -alcohol, based on the total weight of the application mixture, in particular ethanol or isopropanol.
  • an aqueous carrier contains at least 30% by weight, in particular at least 50% by weight, of water, based on the total weight of the application mixture.
  • Preferred cosmetic agents contain, based on their total weight, 40 to 99 wt .-%, preferably 50 to 98 wt .-%, particularly preferably 60 to 95 wt .-% and in particular 70 to 90 wt .-% water.
  • compositions according to the invention containing as the first essential constituent a copolymer A comprising the structural units (A1), (A2), (A3) and (A4).
  • the copolymer A is at least 70 wt .-%, preferably at least 80 wt .-%, preferably at least 90 wt .-% and in particular at least 95 wt. -% consists of the structural units (A1), (A2), (A3) and (A4).
  • Further preferred copolymers A consist entirely of the structural units (A1), (A2), (A3) and (A4).
  • the radical R 1 in the structural unit (A1) is an ether radical, preferably a polyalkoxylated radical.
  • R 1 in formula (A1) is a radical -CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 - (OCH (CH 3) CH 2 ) x (O [CH 2 ] 2) yOCH 3 in which x and y independently of one another have a value between 1 and 100.
  • the radical R2 in the structural unit (A2) is preferably an amino-containing radical, preferably a radical with a tertiary amine. Particular preference is given to structural units (A2) in which R 2 in formula (A2) is a radical - (CH 2 ) 3 -N (CH 3) 2 .
  • At least one of the radicals R 3 is preferably at least one alkyl radical, preferably a (C 1 to C 4) -alkyl radical.
  • Structural units are particularly preferred (A3) in which 2 CH 3 or -CHzCHzCHs, preferably -CH 2 CH 3 and a radical R 3 in formula (A3), R 3 is -CH H.
  • copolymers A consist of at least 70% by weight, preferably at least 80% by weight, preferably at least 90% Wt .-% and in particular at least 95 wt .-%, most preferably completely from the structural units (A1), (A2), (A3) and (A4):
  • A2 a structural unit (A2), at least one structural unit (A3) and at least one structural unit (A4),
  • R1 in formula (A1) represents a radical -CH (CH 3) CH 2 - (OCH (CH 3) CH 2) x (0 [CH 2] 2) y OCH 3, where x and y are independently a Value between 1 and 100;
  • R2 in formula (A2) is a radical - (CH 2 ) 3 -N (CH 3 ) 2 ;
  • R3 independently of one another is an optionally heterofunctionalized alkyl radical other than R1 and R2.
  • A-I) Copolymer A having at least one structural unit (A1), at least
  • A2 a structural unit (A2), at least one structural unit (A3) and at least one structural unit (A4),
  • R1 in formula (A1) represents a radical -CH (CH 3) CH 2 - (OCH (CH 3) CH 2) x (0 [CH 2] 2) y OCH 3, where x and y are independently a Value between 1 and 100;
  • R2 is a hetero-functionalized alkyl radical other than R1;
  • a radical R3 in the formula (A3) is -CH 2 CH 3 or -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3, preferably -CH 2 CH 3 and a radical R3 in the formula (A3) is H.
  • A-III) Copolymer A having at least one structural unit (A1), at least
  • A2 a structural unit (A2), at least one structural unit (A3) and at least one structural unit (A4), in which
  • R1 is an optionally heterofunctionalized alkyl radical
  • - R2 in formula (A2) is a radical - (CH2) 3-N (CH3) 2;
  • a radical R3 in the formula (A3) is -CH 2 CH 3 or -CHzCHzCHs , preferably -CH 2 CH 3 and a radical R3 in the formula (A3) is H.
  • radical R1 in formula (A1) is a radical -CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 - (OCH (CH 3 ) CH 2) x (O [CH 2] 2) y OCH 3 , in which x and y independently of one another a value between 1 and 100;
  • radical R2 in formula (A2) is a radical - (CH 2 ) 3-N (CH 3) 2 ;
  • a radical R3 is -CH 2 CH 3 and a radical R3 in formula (A3) is H.
  • the proportion by weight of the copolymer A in the total weight of cosmetic agents according to the invention is preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 7.0% by weight and in particular from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight.
  • the agents according to the invention contain a copolymer B comprising the structural unit (B1).
  • the copolymer B it has proved to be advantageous if the copolymer B to at least 70 wt .-%, preferably at least 80 wt .-%, preferably at least 90 wt .-% and in particular at least 95 wt. -% consists of the structural unit (B1). Further preferred copolymers B consist entirely of the structural unit (B1).
  • the radical R4 in the structural unit (B1) is an alkyl radical, preferably a C1 to C4 alkyl radical.
  • the structural unit (B1), in which the radical R 4 is -CH 3 is particularly preferred.
  • the proportion by weight of copolymer B in the total weight of cosmetic agent according to the invention is preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 7.0% by weight and in particular from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight.
  • An inventively preferred cosmetic agent is characterized in that the total amount of the mixture of copolymer A and copolymer B, based on the total weight of the composition, 0, 1 to 10.0 wt .-%, in particular 1, 0 to 5.0 wt .-%, is.
  • the Copoylmere A and B can be incorporated in the agent of the invention in pure form.
  • the copolymers A and B it has proved to be advantageous to use the copolymers A and B in prefabricated form, that is to say in combination with further active ingredients or auxiliaries. Particular preference is given to using mixtures of the copolymers A and B in this case.
  • the weight ratio of the copolymer A to the copolymer B in preferably used polymer mixtures is from 20: 1 to 1:20, preferably from 10: 1 to 1:10, in particular from 8: 1 to 1: 8 and very particularly preferably from 5: 1 to 1: 5.
  • the weight ratio of the copolymer A to the copolymer B is from 20: 1 to 1:20, preferably from 10: 1 to 1:10, in particular from 8: 1 to 1: 8 and very particularly preferably 5: 1 to 1: 5.
  • the copolymer B is used in excess.
  • the copolymers A and B described above or mixtures thereof are preferably combined with additional auxiliaries.
  • Particularly preferred is the use of alcohols.
  • a preferred class of alcohols are the diols, especially the 1, 2 diols.
  • 1, 2 octanediol is used.
  • the 1, 2 Octanediol not only facilitates the further processing of the copolymers A and B, or their mixtures, but additionally reinforced their advantageous technical effect, in particular their nourishing effect.
  • the aforementioned diols can be incorporated together with the copolymers A and B, or their mixture, or separately from the copolymers A and B in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention.
  • the cosmetic agents used according to the invention may additionally contain at least one further, different from the copolymers A and B consolidating polymer.
  • Firming polymers contribute to the maintenance and / or build-up of the hair volume and hair fullness of the overall hairstyle. These polymers are at the same time also film-forming polymers and therefore generally typical substances for shaping hair treatment agents such as hair setting agents, Hair mousses, hair waxes, hair sprays.
  • the film formation can be quite selective and connect only a few fibers.
  • Film-forming polymers are polymers which leave a continuous film on the skin, the hair or the nails when drying.
  • Such film formers can be used in a wide variety of cosmetic products, such as for example face masks, make-up, hair fixatives, hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair treatments, shampoos or nail varnishes.
  • Particular preference is given to polymers which have a sufficient solubility in water or water / alcohol mixtures in order to be present in completely completely dissolved form in the agent according to the invention.
  • the film-forming polymers may be of synthetic or natural origin.
  • film-forming polymers are understood as meaning polymers which, when used in 0.01 to 20% strength by weight aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution, are capable of depositing a transparent polymer film on the hair.
  • the properties of the agent according to the invention prove to be particularly advantageous when it is formulated as an aerosol spray, aerosol foam, pump spray or pump foam. This preferred form of packaging will be described later in detail.
  • Particularly preferred film-forming and / or setting polymers are anionic.
  • an anionic polymer is understood as meaning a polymer which, in standard conditions, contains structural units in a protic solvent with anionic groups which have to be compensated by counterions while maintaining electroneutrality and which has no structural units with permanently cationic groups.
  • Anionic groups include carboxyl and sulfonic acid groups.
  • Film-forming anionic and / or reinforcing anionic polymers which comprise at least one structural unit of the formula (I) and at least one structural unit of the formula (II) have proven to be particularly effective,
  • R and R 2 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, with the proviso that R and R 2 do not simultaneously represent a methyl group, R 3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
  • R 4 represents a carbamoyl group, a linear or branched (C 4 d 2) - alkylaminocarbonyl group, a linear or branched (C 4 to C 2) -Alkylaminoethyl- aminocarbonyl group, a linear or branched (C 4 to C 2) - Alkylaminopropyl aminocarbonyl distr, a linear or branched (C 4 to C 12 ) -Alkyloxycarbonyl distr, a linear or branched (C 4 to Ci 2 ) -Alkylaminoethyloxycarbonyl distr, a linear or branched (C 4 to Ci 2 ) -Alkylaminopropyloxycarbonyl distr, a linear or branched (C 2 to Ci 2) is acyloxy,
  • A is a hydroxy group or an organic radical having at least one sulfonic acid group which binds to the structural fragment via an oxygen atom or a group NH.
  • the additional setting polymers are particularly preferred in the agent used in the invention in an amount of 0.5 wt .-% to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 1, 0 wt .-% to 9.0 wt .-%, especially preferably from 3.0% by weight to 8.0% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the composition used according to the invention.
  • the additional fixing anionic polymer contains at least one structural unit of the formula (I) which is selected from at least one structural unit of the formulas (1-1) to (I-5)
  • the said additional fixing polymer additionally contains at least one structural unit of the formula (III) in addition to the above structural units of the formulas (I) and (II) (III)
  • R 5 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • R 6 is a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl group (in particular a methyl group or an ethyl group).
  • Copolymers of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate and tert-butyl acrylate are for example preferred.
  • the additional reinforcing anionic polymer contains at least one structural unit of the formula (II) which is selected from at least one structural unit of the formulas (11-1) to (11-15)
  • X is an oxygen atom or a group NH
  • R is a (C 2 to C 12 ) acyl group (in particular acetyl or neodecanoyl).
  • X 3 according to formulas (II-5) to (11-12) stands for an oxygen atom.
  • the agent used according to the invention comprises at least one additional fixing anionic polymer which has at least one structural unit of the formula (1-1), at least one structural unit of the formula (II-3) and at least one structural unit of the formula (II -16) (especially selected from the group formed from the above formulas (II-5) to (11-12) with the proviso that X 3 represents an oxygen atom),
  • X 3 is an oxygen atom or a group NH
  • R 6 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • R 7 is an alkyl group having 4 carbon atoms (especially n-butyl, sec-butyl, iso-butyl or tert-butyl).
  • the additional fixing polymer in addition to the above structural units of the formulas (1-1), (II-3) and (11-16) additionally contains at least one structural unit of the formula (III)
  • R 8 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • R 9 is a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl group (in particular a methyl group or an ethyl group).
  • Preferred additional strengthening polymers of this type are selected from the group formed by:
  • Copolymers of acrylic acid, (C- ⁇ to C 4 ) -alkyl acrylates, C 4 -alkylaminoethyl methacrylate and Cs-alkylacrylamide are examples of acrylic acid, (C- ⁇ to C 4 ) -alkyl acrylates, C 4 -alkylaminoethyl methacrylate and Cs-alkylacrylamide.
  • the polymer is that available under the trade name Amphomer ® 028-4910 from National Starch polymer having the INCI name
  • agents are preferred according to the invention which comprise as additional anionic setting polymer at least one polymer which contains at least one structural unit of the formula (I-3) and at least one structural unit of the formula (I-13)
  • Preferred polymers of this type are selected from at least one polymer of the group that is formed
  • Polymers of this type are, for example, in an inverse isohexadecane emulsion by the company SEPPIC under the trade name Sepigel ® 305 (INCI name: Polyacrylamide, C13-14 isoparaffin, laureth-7) or Simulgel ® 600 (INCI name: Acrylamide / Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer , Isohexadecane, polysorbate-80).
  • An agent used particularly preferably according to the invention is characterized in that it contains as polymer a copolymer (b1).
  • copolymers (b1) can be defined by the general formula
  • indices m, n and o vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner.
  • the copolymer (b1) has a molecular weight of 50 to 500 kDa, preferably 100 to 450 kDa, more preferably 150 to 400 kDa and especially 200 to 300 kDa.
  • Copolymers of acrylamide with methacrylic acid and acryloyldimethyltaurate are available for example under the trade name Acudyne ® SCP (Rohm & Haas).
  • such agents are preferred as being according to the invention which contain as additional anionic setting polymer at least one polymer which at least one structural unit of the formula (I-3) and at least one structural unit of the formula (I-13)
  • R 5 is a (C 2 to d 2 ) acyl group (in particular acetyl or neodecanoyl).
  • Particularly preferred polymers of this type are selected from at least one polymer of the group formed
  • Such copolymers are, for example, from the company Clariant under the trade name Aristoflex A 60 (INCI name: VA Crotonates Copolymer) in an isopropanol-water mixture (60 wt .-% active ingredient), from BASF under the trade name Luviset CA 66 ( Vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymer 90:10, INCI name VA Crotonates Copolymer) provided by National Starch under the trade name Resyn 28-2942 or Resyn 28-2930 (INCI name: VA / Crotonates / Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymer) ,
  • compositions used according to the invention can be carried out in all forms customary for hair care products, for example in the form of solutions which can be applied to the hair as hair lotions or pump or aerosol spray, in the form of creams, emulsions, waxes, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions or other preparations suitable for use on the hair.
  • the agents according to the invention are preferably configured as a cream or gel or pump foam or aerosol foam.
  • the cosmetic carrier is in cream form or gel form or foam form.
  • a cream is understood to mean a composition in the form of a disperse system which, in addition to water, additionally contains fat and / or oil.
  • suitable fats or oils are described in the course of this application (vide infra).
  • a gel is to be understood to mean a dimensionally stable, easily deformable and dispersed system which consists of a colloidally divided substance with a long or highly branched structure Particles and a liquid exist as a dispersant.
  • Long or highly branched particles are preferably polymeric thickeners (vide infra).
  • a foam according to the invention is understood to mean a disperse system in which a gas is present as a divided phase in a liquid as a continuous phase.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably additionally contain at least one surfactant, nonionic, anionic, cationic, ampholytic surfactants being suitable in principle.
  • the group of ampholytic or amphoteric surfactants includes zwitterionic surfactants and ampholytes.
  • the surfactants according to the invention may already have emulsifying activity.
  • the additional surfactants are preferably used in the agent used in the invention in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.05 wt .-% to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the agent, included.
  • agents used according to the invention additionally comprise at least one nonionic surfactant.
  • Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group, or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups.
  • hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group, or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups.
  • Such compounds are, for example
  • R is CO for a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • R 2 is hydrogen or methyl
  • R 3 is linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms
  • w is a number from 1 to 20 .
  • R 4 is an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms
  • G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms
  • p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry.
  • alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids with in each case 2 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid have proven to be very particularly preferred nonionic surfactants. Preparations with excellent properties are also obtained when they contain as nonionic surfactants C 2 -C 30 fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol and / or addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil ,
  • the agents according to the invention as surfactant very particularly preferably contain at least one addition product of from 15 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, in particular from 15 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide, to a linear or branched (in particular linear) fatty alcohol having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • ethylene oxide in particular from 15 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide
  • linear or branched (in particular linear) fatty alcohol having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • These are very particularly preferably Ceteareth-15, Ceteareth-25 or Ceteareth- 50, which are marketed as Eumulgin ® CS 15 (Cognis), Cremophor A25 (BASF SE) or Eumulgin ® CS 50 (Cognis).
  • Suitable anionic surfactants are in principle all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group,
  • Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
  • Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms are alpha-sulfofatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula R-O (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -OSO 3 H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x 0 or 1 to 12,
  • R 7 CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Alk for CH 2 CH 2 , CHCH 3 CH 2 and / or CH 2 CHCH 3 , n for numbers from 0.5 to 5 and M is a cation, as described in DE-OS 197 36 906,
  • Condensation products of C 8 - C 30 - fatty alcohols with protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids and their derivatives which are known to the skilled person as protein fatty acid condensates, such as Lamepon ® - types Gluadin ® - types Hostapon ® KCG or Amisoft ® - types.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerdisulfate, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and Eiweissfettkladensate.
  • quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides.
  • the long alkyl chains of these surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms, such as In cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium trichloride, lauryldimethylbenzylamine, and tricetylmethylammonium chloride.
  • Further preferred cationic surfactants are the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ⁇ _) in the molecule - Wear group - or -S0 3 ⁇ _).
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate.
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid
  • Ampholytes are surface-active compounds which, apart from a C 8 - C 2 4 - alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -S0 3 H group in the molecule and are capable of forming inner salts .
  • suitable ampholytes are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Particularly preferred ampholytes are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and the d 2 -C 8 -acy
  • the agents used according to the invention contain the ingredients or active ingredients in a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
  • Preferred cosmetically acceptable carriers are aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic media with preferably at least 10% by weight of water, based on the total agent.
  • alcohols it is possible in particular to include the lower alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms usually used for cosmetic purposes, such as, for example, ethanol and isopropanol.
  • at least one (C 1 to C 4 ) monoalkyl alcohol in the agents according to the invention in particular in an amount of from 1 to 50% by weight, in particular from 5 to 30% by weight. This is in turn preferred in particular for the packaging as pump foam or aerosol foam.
  • organic solvents or a mixture of solvents having a boiling point below 400 ° C in an amount of 0, 1 to 15 weight percent, preferably from 1 to 10 weight percent based on the total agent may be included.
  • Particularly suitable as additional co-solvents are unbranched or branched hydrocarbons such Pentane, hexane, isopentane and cyclic hydrocarbons such as cyclopentane and cyclohexane.
  • particularly preferred water-soluble solvents are glycerol, ethylene glycol and propylene glycol in an amount of up to 30% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • compositions according to the invention preferably contain from 0.01 to 30% by weight of glycerol and / or propylene glycol and / or polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol, based on the total agent.
  • the agents preferably have a pH of from 6.8 to 9.5, in particular from 7.0 to 8.5, on.
  • the pH values refer to the pH at 25 ° C, unless stated otherwise.
  • compositions used according to the invention may further comprise the auxiliaries and additives which are usually added to conventional styling agents.
  • auxiliaries and additives in particular additional care substances are mentioned.
  • a silicone oil and / or a silicone gum can be used as a care material.
  • Silicone oils or silicone gums which are suitable according to the invention are in particular dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes, for example dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, and also their alkoxylated, quaternized or else anionic derivatives. Preference is given to cyclic and linear polydialkylsiloxanes, their alkoxylated and / or aminated derivatives, dihydroxypoly-dimethylsiloxanes and polyphenylalkylsiloxanes.
  • Silicone oils cause a wide variety of effects. For example, at the same time they influence the dry and wet combability, the grip of dry and wet hair and the shine.
  • the term "silicone oils” is understood by the person skilled in the art as meaning several structures of silicon-organic compounds. Initially, this is understood to mean the dimethiconols.
  • Examples of such products include the following commercial products: Botanisil NU-150M (Botanigenics), Dow Coming 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9026 Fluid, Ultrapure Dimethiconol (Ultra Chemical), Unisil SF- R (Universal Preserve), X-21-5619 (Shin- Etsu Chemical Co.), Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Specialties), ACC DL-9430 Emulsion (Taylor Chemical Company), AEC Dimethiconol & Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate (A & E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics) Ltd.), BC Dimethiconol Emulsion 95 (Basildon Chemical Company, Ltd.), Cosmetic Fluid 1401, Cosmetic Fluid 1403, Cosmetic Fluid 1501, Cosmetic Fluid 1401 DC (all aforementioned Chemsil Silicones, Inc.), Dow Corning 1401 Fluid, Dow Corning 1403 Fluid, Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Em
  • Dimethicones form the second group of silicones which may be present according to the invention. These may be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched.
  • Dimethicone copolyols form another group of silicones that are suitable.
  • Corresponding dimethicone copolyols are commercially available and are sold, for example, by Dow Corning under the name Dow Corning® 5330 Fluid.
  • the teaching according to the invention also encompasses the fact that the dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolymers can already be present as an emulsion.
  • the corresponding emulsion of dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols from these and the conventional methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art.
  • both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions.
  • the emulsions of dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art.
  • the droplet size of the emulsified particles according to the invention 0.01 to 10000 ⁇ , preferably 0.01 to 100 ⁇ , more preferably 0.01 to 20 ⁇ and most preferably 0 , 01 to 10 ⁇ .
  • the particle size is determined by the method of light scattering.
  • branched dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols are used, it is to be understood that the branching is greater than a random branching, which occurs randomly due to impurities of the respective monomers.
  • branched dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols are therefore to be understood as meaning that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%.
  • Prefers is a degree of branching greater than 0.1%, and most preferably greater than 0.5%.
  • the degree of branching is determined from the ratio of the unbranched monomers to the branching monomers, that is, the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention, both low-branched and highly branched dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols can be very particularly preferred.
  • Particularly suitable silicones are amino-functional silicones, in particular the silicones, which are summarized under the INCI name Amodimethicone. Therefore, it is preferred according to the invention if the agents according to the invention additionally contain at least one amino-functional silicone. These are silicones which have at least one, optionally substituted, amino group. These silicones are referred to as amodimethicone according to the INCI nomenclature and are available for example in the form of an emulsion as a commercial product Dow Corning ® 939 or as a commercial product Dow Corning ® 949 in a mixture with a cationic and a nonionic surfactant.
  • those amino-functional silicones are used which have an amine number above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and especially preferably above 0.4 meq / g.
  • the amine number stands for the milliequivalents of amine per gram of the amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and also expressed in mg KOH / g.
  • the agents contain the silicones preferably in amounts of from 0.01% by weight to 15% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • the agent may contain, for example, at least one protein hydrolyzate and / or one of its derivatives.
  • Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins). According to the invention, the term protein hydrolyzates also means total hydrolyzates as well as individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids.
  • the molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.
  • protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used.
  • Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ® (Cognis), Promois ® (Interorgana) Collapuron ® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ® (Inolex), sericin (Pentapharm) and kerasol tm ® (Croda) sold.
  • the protein hydrolysates are present in the agents according to the invention, for example, in concentrations of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0 , 05 wt .-% up to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total application preparation included.
  • the agent according to the invention may further comprise at least one vitamin, a provitamin, a vitamin precursor and / or one of their derivatives.
  • vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H.
  • vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin Ai) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ).
  • the ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
  • vitamin A component for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration.
  • the agents preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total application preparation.
  • the vitamin B group or to the vitamin B complex include vitamin B- ⁇ (thiamine), vitamin B 2 (riboflavin), vitamin B 3 (nicotinic acid and / or nicotinamide (niacinamide)), vitamin B 5 (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone), vitamin B 6 (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin E (tocopherols, in particular a-tocopherol), vitamin F (linoleic acid and / or linolenic acid), vitamin H.
  • vitamin B- ⁇ thiamine
  • vitamin B 2 riboflavin
  • vitamin B 3 nicotinic acid and / or nicotinamide (niacinamide)
  • vitamin B 5 pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone
  • vitamin B 6 pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal
  • vitamin C ascorbic acid
  • vitamin E to
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, C, E and H. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinamide and biotin are particularly preferred.
  • the addition of panthenol increases the flexibility of the polymer film formed using the composition of the present invention.
  • the compositions according to the invention may contain panthenol instead of or in addition to glycerol and / or propylene glycol.
  • the agents according to the invention contain panthenol, preferably in an amount of 0.05 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total agent.
  • the compositions used according to the invention may further contain at least one plant extract.
  • extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.
  • mixtures of several, in particular two, different plant extracts may be preferable to use mixtures of several, in particular two, different plant extracts in the compositions used according to the invention.
  • Mono- or oligosaccharides can also be used as a care substance in the compositions according to the invention.
  • Both monosaccharides and oligosaccharides such as cane sugar, lactose and raffinose, can be used.
  • the use of monosaccharides is preferred according to the invention.
  • those compounds which contain 5 or 6 carbon atoms are preferred.
  • Suitable pentoses and hexoses are, for example, ribose, arabinose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, glucose, mannose, gulose, idose, galactose, talose, fucose and fructose.
  • Arabinose, glucose, galactose and fructose are preferably used carbohydrates; Very particular preference is given to using glucose which is suitable both in the D - (+) or L - (-) configuration or as a racemate.
  • derivatives of these pentoses and hexoses such as the corresponding on- and uronic acids (sugar acids), sugar alcohols and glycosides, can also be used according to the invention.
  • Preferred sugars are gluconic acid, glucuronic acid, sugar acid, mannose and mucic acid.
  • Preferred sugar alcohols are sorbitol, mannitol and dulcitol.
  • Preferred glycosides are the methylglucosides. Since the monosaccharides or oligosaccharides used are usually obtained from natural raw materials such as starch, they usually have the configurations corresponding to these raw materials (for example D-glucose, D-fructose and D-galactose).
  • the monosaccharides or oligosaccharides are contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total application preparation.
  • the agent may further contain at least one lipid as a care substance.
  • Lipids which are suitable according to the invention are phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, and those mentioned under the INCI names linoleic amidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride Phosphates, cocamidopropyl PG-dimonium chlorides phosphates and stearamidopropyl PG-dimonium chlorides phosphates known substances. These are sold, for example, by the company Mona under the trade names Phospholipid EFA® , Phospholipid PTC® and Phospholipid SV® .
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain the lipids in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the total application preparation.
  • the agent according to the invention is formulated as a cream - that the cosmetic agent according to the invention additionally contains at least one oil phase.
  • an oil phase is understood as meaning a phase which is liquid at 20 ° C. and dissolves at 20 ° C. to less than 1 g in 100 g of water.
  • the oil phase preferably has a viscosity of up to 1000 mPas, (Brookfield, RVDV II +, 20 ° C., 20 revolutions per minute, spindle no. 1).
  • the oil of the oil phase is selected from at least one oil of the group that is formed
  • Liquid fatty acids and / or their mono, - di- and trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched C 6 - to C 2 2 fatty acids with glycerol Liquid fatty acids and / or their mono, - di- and trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched C 6 - to C 2 2 fatty acids with glycerol.
  • Preferred vegetable oils are selected from at least one member of the group formed from amaranth oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, castor oil, sesame oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, apricot kernel oil, macadamia nut oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil.
  • Preferred ester oils are selected from esters of C 6 -C 30 fatty acids with C 2 -C 30 fatty alcohols.
  • the monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred.
  • fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, Gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, for example in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis or the Dimerization of
  • fatty alcohol moieties in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and Brassidylalkohol and their technical mixtures, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols incurred.
  • isopropyl myristate IPM Rilanit ®
  • isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester Cetiol ® SN
  • 2-ethylhexyl palmitate Cegesoft ® 24
  • stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester Cetiol ® 868
  • cetyl oleate glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ® J 600)
  • Mono, di- and triflic acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol which are preferably usable as oil in the oil phase are in particular the triglyceride esters of capric acid and caprylic acid (INCI name: Caprylic / Capric triglycerides), for example obtainable as a commercial product Cognis under the name myritol ® 312th
  • the additional oil phase is preferably in the composition according to the invention in an amount of 0.05 wt .-% to 25 wt .-%, in particular from 0.1 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the cosmetic By means of, included.
  • agents according to the invention which additionally contain at least one fatty substance.
  • a fatty substance is understood as meaning those compounds which are soluble at less than 1 g at 20 ° C. in 100 g of water.
  • the fatty substance is preferably selected from at least one fatty substance which is formed the group of candelilla wax, shea butter, carnauba wax, beeswax, coconut oil, C 12 to C 2 o-fatty acids (particularly stearic acid)
  • the additional fatty substance is preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from 0.05% by weight to 35% by weight, in particular from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the cosmetic composition. contain. If the agents according to the invention are in the form of a cream or a gel, it is preferred according to the invention to additionally add at least one polymeric thickener. This thickener is different from the said propylene oxide modified starches.
  • acrylamide copolymer acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer
  • acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer acrylates / acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate copolymer
  • acrylates / beheneth-25-methacrylate copolymer acrylates / C10.
  • the polymeric thickener is particularly preferably chosen from polymeric, anionic, amphiphilic thickeners, particularly preferably those having the INCI names Acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, acrylates / ceteth-20 itaconate copolymer, Acrylates / Ceteth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Laureth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Palmeth-20 Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-50 Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Stearyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates /
  • the polymeric thickeners are preferably present in an amount of from 0.5 to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in the composition according to the invention in cream or gel form. This is preferably a transparent gel according to the invention.
  • UV filters are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC ( ⁇ 280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
  • the UV filters preferred according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.
  • UV filters which can be used according to the invention are 4-aminobenzoic acid, ⁇ , ⁇ , ⁇ -trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate (homosalates), 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2- oxo-bicyclo- [2.2.1] hept-1-yl-methanesulphonic acid) and its salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, a- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidene) toluene-4-sulfonic acid and salts
  • the UV filters are usually contained in amounts of 0.01-5 wt .-%, based on the total application preparation. Amounts of 0, 1-2.5 wt .-% are preferred.
  • the agent used in the invention further contains one or more substantive dyes.
  • Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols.
  • Preferred substantive dyes are those having the international designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, HC Orange 1, HC Red 1, HC Red 1, HC Red 13, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, HC Red BN, Pigment Red 57: 1, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 1, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Black 9, Acid Black 1, and Acid Black 52 known compounds and 1, 4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1, 4-bis (ß-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- (ß- hydroxyethyl) aminophenol, 2- (2'-hydroxyethyl
  • aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, as well as
  • the dyes which are also known by the names Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51, are very particularly preferred cationic substantive dyes of the Group (c).
  • the cationic substantive dyes sold under the trademark Arianor are also very particularly preferred cationic substantive dyes according to the invention.
  • the agents used according to the invention according to this embodiment preferably contain the substantive dyes in an amount of 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, based on the total agent.
  • the agents used according to the invention are free of oxidation dye precursors.
  • Oxidation dye precursors are classified into so-called developer components and coupler components.
  • the developer components form the actual dyes under the influence of oxidizing agents or of atmospheric oxygen with one another or with coupling with one or more coupler components.
  • agents used according to the invention as a pump spray, aerosol spray, but preferably as a pump foam or aerosol foam.
  • the agents according to the invention are packaged in a dispensing device, which is either an additionally filled with a propellant compressed gas container ("aerosol container”) or a non-aerosol container.
  • a dispensing device which is either an additionally filled with a propellant compressed gas container ("aerosol container”) or a non-aerosol container.
  • the pressurized gas containers with the aid of which a product is distributed by the internal gas pressure of the container via a valve, are defined as “aerosol containers”.
  • aerosol container a container under normal pressure is defined in reverse to the aerosol definition, with the aid of which a product is distributed by means of mechanical action by a pumping system.
  • agents used according to the invention are formulated as aerosol hair foam or aerosol hair spray.
  • the agent according to the invention therefore preferably additionally contains at least one propellant.
  • Propellants which are suitable according to the invention are selected, for example, from N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 , air, alkanes having 3 to 5 carbon atoms, such as propane, n-butane, isobutane, n-pentane and isopentane, and mixtures thereof. Preference is given to dimethyl ether, propane, n-butane, isobutane and mixtures thereof.
  • said alkanes, mixtures of said alkanes or mixtures of said alkanes with dimethyl ether are used as sole blowing agent.
  • the invention expressly also includes the concomitant use of propellants of the type of chlorofluorocarbons, but in particular of fluorocarbons.
  • the sizes of the aerosol droplets or of the foam bubbles and the respective size distribution can be set for a given spraying device.
  • blowing agent used varies depending on the specific composition of the composition, the packaging used and the desired product type, such as hair spray or hair foam.
  • aerosol foam products preferably contain the blowing agent in amounts of from 1 to 35% by weight, based on the total product. Amounts of 2 to 30 wt .-%, in particular from 3 to 15 wt .-% are particularly preferred. Aerosol sprays generally contain larger amounts of propellant.
  • the blowing agent is used in this case in an amount of 30 to 98 wt .-%, based on the total product. Amounts of 40 to 95 wt .-%, in particular from 50 to 95 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • the aerosol products can be prepared in the usual way.
  • all constituents of the respective agent with the exception of the propellant, are introduced into a suitable pressure-resistant container. This is then closed with a valve.
  • the desired amount of blowing agent is introduced.
  • isopentane is preferably suitable as a propellant, which is incorporated into the compositions according to the invention and is packaged in the first chamber of the two-chamber aerosol container.
  • at least one further propellant other than isopentane is made up, which builds up a higher pressure in the two-chamber aerosol container than the isopentane.
  • the blowing agents of the second chamber are preferably selected from N 2 O, dimethyl ether, C0 2 , air, alkanes having 3 or 4 carbon atoms (such as propane, n-butane, iso-butane) and mixtures thereof.
  • a further subject of the present application is a process for the treatment of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, comprising the steps
  • At least one copolymer A having at least one structural unit (A1), at least one structural unit (A2), at least one structural unit (A3) and at least one structural unit (A4),
  • R1 is an optionally heterofunctionalized alkyl radical
  • R2 is a hetero-functionalized alkyl radical other than R1;
  • R3 independently of one another is an optionally heterofunctionalized alkyl radical other than R1 and R2
  • copolymer A different from copolymer A having at least one structural unit (B1)
  • R 4 is an optionally heterofunctionalized alkyl radical
  • Preferred according to the invention are the abovementioned preferred embodiments of the copolymers A and B and the delivery devices (vide supra).
  • the agent in step ii) is applied to the keratin-containing fibers and the keratin-containing fibers are shaped. This form is fixed by the agent applied in step ii).
  • Formulation E1 when applied to oxidatively colored keratinic fibers, resulted in improved color retention compared to formulation V1 after numerous hair washes.

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Abstract

Products which contain, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, a) at least one copolymer A having at least one structural unit (A1), at least one structural unit (A2), at least one structural unit (A3) and at least one structural unit (A4), wherein R1 represents an optionally heterofunctionalized alkyl group; R2 represents an optionally heterofunctionalized alkyl group which is different from R1; R3 independently represents an optionally heterofunctionalized alkyl group different from R1 and R2, and b) at least one copolymer B, which is different from copolymer A and has at least one structural unit (B1), wherein R4 represents an optionally heterofunctionalized alkyl group, improve the color retention of oxidatively dyed keratin fibers.

Description

„Verwendung eines Mittels für keratinhaltige Fasern, enthaltend mindestens eine spezielle Polymerkombination zur Verbesserung des Farberhalts oxidativer Haarcolorationen" "Use of an agent for keratin-containing fibers containing at least one special polymer combination for improving the color retention of oxidative hair colorations"
Die vorliegende Erfindung betrifft die Verwendung eines Mittels zur Haarbehandlung, enthaltend eine Kombination mindestens einer nichtionischen, mittels Propylenoxid modifizierten Stärke mit mindestens einem filmbildenden und/oder festigenden anionischen Polymer, zur Verbesserung des Farberhalts oxidativer Haarcolorationen sowie entsprechende Verfahren zur Behandlung keratinhaltiger Fasern. The present invention relates to the use of a hair treatment composition containing a combination of at least one nonionic propylene oxide-modified starch with at least one film-forming and / or setting anionic polymer to improve the color retention of oxidative hair colorations and to corresponding methods of treating keratin-containing fibers.
Unter keratinhaltigen Fasern werden prinzipiell alle tierischen Haare, z.B. Wolle, Rosshaar, Angorahaar, Pelze, Federn und daraus gefertigte Produkte oder Textilien verstanden. Vorzugsweise handelt es sich bei den keratinischen Fasern jedoch um menschliche Haare. In principle, all animal hair, e.g. Wool, horsehair, angora hair, furs, feathers and products or textiles made from them. Preferably, however, the keratinic fibers are human hairs.
Die Färbung keratinischer Fasern, beispielsweise menschlicher Keratinfasern erfolgt in der Regel mit Färbezusammensetzungen, die neben weiteren Bestandteilen Oxidationsfarbstoffvorprodukte, insbesondere Oxidationsbasen („Entwickler") enthalten. Diese farblosen oder schwach farbigen Substanzen reagieren nach Zugabe eines Oxidationsmittels im Rahmen einer oxidativen Kondensation zu Farbstoffmolekülen. Zur Nuancierung der so erhaltenen Farben wird den Entwicklern in der Regel eine zweite Gruppe von Oxidationsfarbstoffvorprodukte, die sogenannten Kuppler, zugesetzt. Durch die Kombination von Entwickler- und Kupplerkomponenten lässt sich eine Vielzahl unterschiedlicher Farbtöne realisieren. The coloring of keratinic fibers, for example human keratin fibers, is generally carried out with dyeing compositions which contain, among other constituents, oxidation dye precursors, in particular oxidation bases ("developers") .These colorless or slightly colored substances react after addition of an oxidizing agent in the course of an oxidative condensation to form dye molecules In order to shade the colors thus obtained, a second group of oxidation dye precursors, the so-called couplers, is generally added to the developers.With the combination of developer and coupler components, a large number of different shades can be achieved.
In Ergänzung oder alternativ zu den vorgenannten Oxidationsfarbstoffen werden Keratinfasern mit Hilfe direktziehender Farbstoffe gefärbt. Bei diesen direktziehenden Farbstoffen handelt es sich um farbige Moleküle die auf die Oberfläche der Keratinfasern aufziehen. In addition to or as an alternative to the abovementioned oxidation dyes, keratin fibers are dyed with the aid of direct dyes. These direct-acting dyes are colored molecules that are absorbed by the surface of the keratin fibers.
Die durch Oxidationsfarbstoffe oder direktziehende Farbstoffe erhaltene Färbung der keratinischen Faser verblasst durch äußere Einflüsse wie Licht, insbesondere jedoch aufgrund wiederholter Haarwäsche. The coloring of the keratinic fiber obtained by oxidation dyes or substantive dyes fades due to external influences such as light, but in particular due to repeated hair washing.
Zur Verbesserung des Farberhalts oxidativ gefärbter Keratinfasern wird in den europäischen Patenten EP 1 915 981 B1 und EP 1 923 042 B1 beispielsweise der Einsatz von Zinksalzen vorgeschlagen. Die Zinksalze werden nach Lehre dieser Dokumente nach Beendigung des Färbevorgangs auf die keratinischen Fasern aufgebracht. To improve the color content of oxidatively colored keratin fibers, for example, the use of zinc salts is proposed in European patents EP 1 915 981 B1 and EP 1 923 042 B1. The zinc salts are applied according to the teaching of these documents after completion of the dyeing process on the keratinic fibers.
Die nach Lehre dieser Dokumente erzielten Farberhaltungswerte sind jedoch nicht in jedem Falle zufriedenstellend. Zusammenfassend besteht damit weiterhin ein Bedarf nach Verfahren zur Verbesserung des Farberhalts gefärbter keratinischer Fasern. Vor diesem Hintergrund wurde festgestellt, dass durch die Behandlung keratinischer Fasern mit einer Kombination spezieller Polymere ein verbesserter Farberhalt erreicht werden kann. However, the color retention values obtained by teaching these documents are not satisfactory in every case. In summary, there remains a need for methods for improving the color retention of colored keratinic fibers. Against this background, it has been found that by treating keratinic fibers with a combination of special polymers, improved color retention can be achieved.
Ein erster Gegenstand der vorliegenden Erfindung ist daher die Verwendung eines Mittels, enthaltend in einem kosmetisch akzeptablen Träger A first object of the present invention is therefore the use of an agent contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier
a) mindestens ein Copolymer A mit mindestens einer Struktureinheit (A1 ), mindestens einer Struktureinheit (A2), mindestens eine Struktureinheit (A3) und mindestens einer Struktureinheit (A4), a) at least one copolymer A having at least one structural unit (A1), at least one structural unit (A2), at least one structural unit (A3) and at least one structural unit (A4),
wobei  in which
- R1 für einen gegebenenfalls heterofunktionaliserten Alkylrest steht;  R1 is an optionally heterofunctionalized alkyl radical;
- R2 für einen von R1 verschiedenen, gegebenenfalls heterofunktionalisierten Alkylrest steht; R2 is a hetero-functionalized alkyl radical other than R1;
- R3 voneinander unabhängig für einen von R1 und R2 verschiedenen gegebenenfalls heterofunktionalisierten Alkylrest steht - R3 independently of one another is an optionally heterofunctionalized alkyl radical other than R1 and R2
mindestens ein von Copolymer A verschiedenes Copolymer B mit mindestens einer Struktureinheit (B1 )  at least one copolymer A different from copolymer A having at least one structural unit (B1)
wobei R4 für einen gegebenenfalls heterofunktionaliserten Alkylrest steht,  where R 4 is an optionally heterofunctionalized alkyl radical,
zur Verbesserung des Farberhalts oxidativ gefärbter keratinhaltiger Fasern, insbesondere oxidativ gefärbten menschlichen Haars. for improving the color content of oxidatively colored keratin-containing fibers, in particular oxidatively dyed human hair.
Gemäß obiger Formeln und allen folgenden Formeln steht eine chemische Bindung, die mit dem Symbol * gekennzeichnet ist, für eine freie Valenz des entsprechenden Strukturfragments. According to the above formulas and all following formulas, a chemical bond marked with the symbol * stands for a free valency of the corresponding structural fragment.
Die Verbesserung des Farberhalts umfasst erfindungsgemäß den Erhalt der Farbe bei Einwirkung äußerer Einflüsse. Der Farberhallt umfasst damit beispielsweise Phänomene wie die Waschechtheit, Lichtechtheit, Reibechtheit oder Schweißechtheit der oxidativen Haarfärbung. Besondere Vorteile weist die erfindungsgemäße Verwendung im Hinblick auf den Farberhalt nach Wäsche der Keratinfasern auf. Die Verwendung nach erfindungsgemäßer Zusammensetzungen zur Verbesserung der Waschechtheit oxidativ gefärbter keratinhaltiger Fasern, insbesondere oxidativ gefärbten menschlichen Haars, ist daher eine bevorzugte Ausführungsform der vorliegenden Anmeldung. The improvement of the color content according to the invention comprises the preservation of the color when exposed to external influences. The colorant thus includes, for example, phenomena such as the fastness to washing, lightfastness, rubfastness or perspiration fastness of oxidative hair dyeing. The use according to the invention with regard to the color retention after washing of the keratin fibers has particular advantages. The use according to inventive compositions for improving the wash fastness of oxidatively colored keratin-containing fibers, in particular oxidatively colored human hair, is therefore a preferred embodiment of the present application.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel enthalten die Wirkstoffe in einem kosmetischen Träger. Dieser kosmetische Träger ist wässrig, alkoholisch oder wässrig-alkoholisch. Unter wässrig-alkoholischen Trägern sind im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung wasserhaltige Zusammensetzungen, enthaltend 3 bis 70 Gew.-% eines Ci-C4-Alkohols, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Anwendungsmischung, insbesondere Ethanol bzw. Isopropanol, zu verstehen. Ein wässriger Träger enthält im Sinne der Erfindung mindestens 30 Gew.-%, insbesondere mindestens 50 Gew.- % Wasser, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Anwendungsmischung. Bevorzugte kosmetische Mittel enthalten, bezogen auf sein Gesamtgewicht, 40 bis 99 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 50 bis 98 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 60 bis 95 Gew.-% und insbesondere 70 bis 90 Gew.-% Wasser. The agents according to the invention contain the active ingredients in a cosmetic carrier. This cosmetic carrier is watery, alcoholic or watery-alcoholic. For the purposes of the present invention, aqueous-alcoholic carriers are water-containing compositions containing 3 to 70% by weight of a C 1 -C 4 -alcohol, based on the total weight of the application mixture, in particular ethanol or isopropanol. For the purposes of the invention, an aqueous carrier contains at least 30% by weight, in particular at least 50% by weight, of water, based on the total weight of the application mixture. Preferred cosmetic agents contain, based on their total weight, 40 to 99 wt .-%, preferably 50 to 98 wt .-%, particularly preferably 60 to 95 wt .-% and in particular 70 to 90 wt .-% water.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel enthaltend als ersten wesentlichen Bestandteil ein Copolymer A, umfassend die Struktureinheiten (A1 ), (A2), (A3) und (A4). Für die technische Wirkung der erfindungsgemäßen Mittel hat es sich als vorteilhaft erwiesen, wenn das Copolymer A zu mindestens 70 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise zu mindestens 80 Gew.-%, bevorzugt zu mindestens 90 Gew.-% und insbesondere zu mindestens 95 Gew.-% aus den Struktureinheiten (A1 ), (A2), (A3) und (A4) besteht. Weitere bevorzugte Copolymere A bestehen vollständig aus den Struktureinheiten (A1 ), (A2), (A3) und (A4). The compositions according to the invention containing as the first essential constituent a copolymer A comprising the structural units (A1), (A2), (A3) and (A4). For the technical effect of the compositions according to the invention, it has proved to be advantageous if the copolymer A is at least 70 wt .-%, preferably at least 80 wt .-%, preferably at least 90 wt .-% and in particular at least 95 wt. -% consists of the structural units (A1), (A2), (A3) and (A4). Further preferred copolymers A consist entirely of the structural units (A1), (A2), (A3) and (A4).
In einer bevorzugten Ausführungsform steht der Rest R1 in der Struktureinheit (A1 ) für einen Etherrest, vorzugsweise für einen polyalkoxylierten Rest. Besonders bevorzugt werden Struktureinheiten (A1 ), in denen R1 in Formel (A1 ) für einen Rest -CH(CH3)CH2- (OCH(CH3)CH2)x(0[CH2]2)yOCH3 steht, in dem x und y unabhängig voneinander einen Wert zwischen 1 und 100 aufweisen. In a preferred embodiment, the radical R 1 in the structural unit (A1) is an ether radical, preferably a polyalkoxylated radical. Particular preference is given to structural units (A1) in which R 1 in formula (A1) is a radical -CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 - (OCH (CH 3) CH 2 ) x (O [CH 2 ] 2) yOCH 3 in which x and y independently of one another have a value between 1 and 100.
Der Rest R2 in der Struktureinheit (A2) steht vorzugsweise für einen aminogruppenhaltigen Rest, vorzugsweise für einen Rest mit einem tertiären Amin. Besonders bevorzugt werden Struktureinheiten (A2), in denen R2 in Formel (A2) für einen Rest -(CH2)3-N(CH3)2 steht. The radical R2 in the structural unit (A2) is preferably an amino-containing radical, preferably a radical with a tertiary amine. Particular preference is given to structural units (A2) in which R 2 in formula (A2) is a radical - (CH 2 ) 3 -N (CH 3) 2 .
In der Struktureinheit (A3) steht mindestens einer der Reste R3 vorzugsweise für mindestens einen Alkylrest, bevorzugt einen (C1 bis C4)-Alkylrest. Besonders bevorzugt werden Struktureinheiten (A3), in denen R3 für -CH2CH3 oder -CHzCHzCHs, vorzugsweise für -CH2CH3 und ein Rest R3 in Formel (A3) für H steht. In the structural unit (A3), at least one of the radicals R 3 is preferably at least one alkyl radical, preferably a (C 1 to C 4) -alkyl radical. Structural units are particularly preferred (A3) in which 2 CH 3 or -CHzCHzCHs, preferably -CH 2 CH 3 and a radical R 3 in formula (A3), R 3 is -CH H.
Einige bevorzugte Copolymere A sind nachfolgend aufgeführt. Diese Copolymere A bestehen zu mindestens 70 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise zu mindestens 80 Gew.-%, bevorzugt zu mindestens 90 Gew.-% und insbesondere zu mindestens 95 Gew.-%, ganz besonders bevorzugt vollständig aus den Struktureinheiten (A1 ), (A2), (A3) und (A4): Some preferred copolymers A are listed below. These copolymers A consist of at least 70% by weight, preferably at least 80% by weight, preferably at least 90% Wt .-% and in particular at least 95 wt .-%, most preferably completely from the structural units (A1), (A2), (A3) and (A4):
A-l) Copolymer A mit mindestens einer Struktureinheit (A1 ), mindestens A-1) Copolymer A having at least one structural unit (A1), at least
einer Struktureinheit (A2), mindestens eine Struktureinheit (A3) und mindestens einer Struktureinheit (A4), a structural unit (A2), at least one structural unit (A3) and at least one structural unit (A4),
wobei in which
- R1 in Formel (A1 ) für einen Rest -CH(CH3)CH2-(OCH(CH3)CH2)x(0[CH2]2)yOCH3 steht, in dem x und y unabhängig voneinander einen Wert zwischen 1 und 100 aufweisen; - R1 in formula (A1) represents a radical -CH (CH 3) CH 2 - (OCH (CH 3) CH 2) x (0 [CH 2] 2) y OCH 3, where x and y are independently a Value between 1 and 100;
- R2 in Formel (A2) für einen Rest -(CH2)3-N(CH3)2 steht; - R2 in formula (A2) is a radical - (CH 2 ) 3 -N (CH 3 ) 2 ;
- R3 voneinander unabhängig für einen von R1 und R2 verschiedenen gegebenenfalls heterofunktionalisierten Alkylrest steht.  - R3 independently of one another is an optionally heterofunctionalized alkyl radical other than R1 and R2.
A-l I) Copolymer A mit mindestens einer Struktureinheit (A1 ), mindestens A-I) Copolymer A having at least one structural unit (A1), at least
einer Struktureinheit (A2), mindestens eine Struktureinheit (A3) und mindestens einer Struktureinheit (A4), a structural unit (A2), at least one structural unit (A3) and at least one structural unit (A4),
wobei in which
- R1 in Formel (A1 ) für einen Rest -CH(CH3)CH2-(OCH(CH3)CH2)x(0[CH2]2)yOCH3 steht, in dem x und y unabhängig voneinander einen Wert zwischen 1 und 100 aufweisen; - R1 in formula (A1) represents a radical -CH (CH 3) CH 2 - (OCH (CH 3) CH 2) x (0 [CH 2] 2) y OCH 3, where x and y are independently a Value between 1 and 100;
- R2 für einen von R1 verschiedenen, gegebenenfalls heterofunktionalisierten Alkylrest steht; R2 is a hetero-functionalized alkyl radical other than R1;
- ein Rest R3 in der Formel (A3) für -CH2CH3 oder -CH2CH2CH3, vorzugsweise für -CH2CH3 und ein Rest R3 in Formel (A3) für H steht. a radical R3 in the formula (A3) is -CH 2 CH 3 or -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3, preferably -CH 2 CH 3 and a radical R3 in the formula (A3) is H.
A-Ill) Copolymer A mit mindestens einer Struktureinheit (A1 ), mindestens A-III) Copolymer A having at least one structural unit (A1), at least
einer Struktureinheit (A2), mindestens eine Struktureinheit (A3) und mindestens einer Struktureinheit (A4), wobei a structural unit (A2), at least one structural unit (A3) and at least one structural unit (A4), in which
- R1 für einen gegebenenfalls heterofunktionaliserten Alkylrest steht;  R1 is an optionally heterofunctionalized alkyl radical;
- R2 in Formel (A2) für einen Rest -(CH2)3-N(CH3)2 steht; - R2 in formula (A2) is a radical - (CH2) 3-N (CH3) 2;
- ein Rest R3 in der Formel (A3) für -CH2CH3 oder -CHzCHzCHs, vorzugsweise für -CH2CH3 und ein Rest R3 in Formel (A3) für H steht. a radical R3 in the formula (A3) is -CH 2 CH 3 or -CHzCHzCHs , preferably -CH 2 CH 3 and a radical R3 in the formula (A3) is H.
Ganz besonders bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße kosmetische Mittel sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass Very particularly preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized in that
- der Rest R1 in Formel (A1 ) für einen Rest -CH(CH3)CH2-(OCH(CH3)CH2)x(0[CH2]2)yOCH3 steht, in dem x und y unabhängig voneinander einen Wert zwischen 1 und 100 aufweisen; - the radical R1 in formula (A1) is a radical -CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 - (OCH (CH 3 ) CH 2) x (O [CH 2] 2) y OCH 3 , in which x and y independently of one another a value between 1 and 100;
- der Rest R2 in Formel (A2) für einen Rest -(CH2)3-N(CH3)2 steht; - the radical R2 in formula (A2) is a radical - (CH 2 ) 3-N (CH 3) 2 ;
- ein Rest R3 für -CH2CH3 und ein Rest R3 in Formel (A3) für H steht. - A radical R3 is -CH 2 CH 3 and a radical R3 in formula (A3) is H.
Der Gewichtsanteil des Copolymers A am Gesamtgewicht erfindungsgemäßer kosmetischer Mittel beträgt bevorzugt 0,05 bis 10 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,1 bis 7,0 Gew.-% und insbesondere 0,2 bis 5,0 Gew.-%. The proportion by weight of the copolymer A in the total weight of cosmetic agents according to the invention is preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 7.0% by weight and in particular from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight.
Als zweiten wesentlichen Bestandteil enthalten die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel ein Copolymer B, umfassend die Struktureinheit (B1 ). Für die technische Wirkung der erfindungsgemäßen Mittel hat es sich als vorteilhaft erwiesen, wenn das Copolymer B zu mindestens 70 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise zu mindestens 80 Gew.-%, bevorzugt zu mindestens 90 Gew.-% und insbesondere zu mindestens 95 Gew.-% aus der Struktureinheit (B1 ) besteht. Weitere bevorzugte Copolymere B bestehen vollständig aus der Struktureinheit (B1 ). As a second essential component, the agents according to the invention contain a copolymer B comprising the structural unit (B1). For the technical effect of the agents according to the invention, it has proved to be advantageous if the copolymer B to at least 70 wt .-%, preferably at least 80 wt .-%, preferably at least 90 wt .-% and in particular at least 95 wt. -% consists of the structural unit (B1). Further preferred copolymers B consist entirely of the structural unit (B1).
In einer bevorzugten Ausführungsform steht der Rest R4 in der Struktureinheit (B1 ) für einen Alkylrest, bevorzugt einen C1 bis C4 Alkylrest. Besonders bevorzugt wird die Struktureinheit (B1 ), in welcher der Rest R4 für -CH3 steht. In a preferred embodiment, the radical R4 in the structural unit (B1) is an alkyl radical, preferably a C1 to C4 alkyl radical. The structural unit (B1), in which the radical R 4 is -CH 3 is particularly preferred.
Der Gewichtsanteil des Copolymers B am Gesamtgewicht erfindungsgemäßer kosmetischer Mittels beträgt bevorzugt 0,05 bis 10 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0, 1 bis 7,0 Gew.-% und insbesondere 0,2 bis 5,0 Gew.-%. Ein erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt verwendetes kosmetisches Mittel ist dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Gesamtmenge der Mischung aus Copolymer A und Copolymer B, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht des Mittels, 0, 1 bis 10,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere 1 ,0 bis 5,0 Gew.-%, beträgt. The proportion by weight of copolymer B in the total weight of cosmetic agent according to the invention is preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 7.0% by weight and in particular from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight. An inventively preferred cosmetic agent is characterized in that the total amount of the mixture of copolymer A and copolymer B, based on the total weight of the composition, 0, 1 to 10.0 wt .-%, in particular 1, 0 to 5.0 wt .-%, is.
Die Copoylmere A und B können in das erfindungsgemäße Mittel in Reinform eingearbeitet werden. Für die Verarbeitung und die kosmetischen Eigenschaften der erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen Mittel hat es sich jedoch als vorteilhaft erwiesen, die Copolymere A und B in vorkonfektionierter Form, also in Kombination mit weiteren Wirk- oder Hilfsstoffen, einzusetzen. Bevorzugt werden dabei insbesondere Gemische aus den Copolymeren A und B eingesetzt. Das Gewichtsverhältnis des Copolymers A zum Copolymer B in bevorzugt eingesetzten Polymergemische beträgt 20:1 bis 1 :20, vorzugsweise 10:1 bis 1 :10, insbesondere 8:1 bis 1 :8 und ganz besonders bevorzugt 5: 1 bis 1 :5. Folgerichtig sind daher auch erfindungsgemäße kosmetische Mittel bevorzugt, in denen das Gewichtsverhältnis des Copolymers A zum Copolymer B 20:1 bis 1 :20, vorzugsweise 10:1 bis 1 :10, insbesondere 8:1 bis 1 :8 und ganz besonders bevorzugt 5: 1 bis 1 :5 beträgt. Ganz besonders bevorzugt ist der Einsatz der Copoylmere A und B in einem Gewichtsverhältnis von 2: 1 bis 1 :4, vorzugsweise von 1 : 1 bis 1 :3. Vorzugsweise wird das Copolymer B im Überschuss eingesetzt. The Copoylmere A and B can be incorporated in the agent of the invention in pure form. For the processing and the cosmetic properties of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention, however, it has proved to be advantageous to use the copolymers A and B in prefabricated form, that is to say in combination with further active ingredients or auxiliaries. Particular preference is given to using mixtures of the copolymers A and B in this case. The weight ratio of the copolymer A to the copolymer B in preferably used polymer mixtures is from 20: 1 to 1:20, preferably from 10: 1 to 1:10, in particular from 8: 1 to 1: 8 and very particularly preferably from 5: 1 to 1: 5. Consequently, cosmetic agents according to the invention are also preferred in which the weight ratio of the copolymer A to the copolymer B is from 20: 1 to 1:20, preferably from 10: 1 to 1:10, in particular from 8: 1 to 1: 8 and very particularly preferably 5: 1 to 1: 5. Very particularly preferred is the use of Copoylmere A and B in a weight ratio of 2: 1 to 1: 4, preferably from 1: 1 to 1: 3. Preferably, the copolymer B is used in excess.
Die zuvor beschriebenen Copolymere A und B oder deren Gemische werden vorzugsweise mit zusätzlichen Hilfsstoffen kombiniert. Besonders bevorzugt ist der Einsatz von Alkoholen. Eine bevorzugte Klasse von Alkoholen sind die Diole, insbesondere die 1 ,2 Diole. Mit besonderem Vorzug wird 1 ,2 Octandiol eingesetzt. Insbesondere das 1 ,2 Octandiol erleichtert nicht nur die weitere Verarbeitung der Copolymere A und B, bzw. ihrer Gemische, sondern verstärkt zusätzlich noch deren vorteilhafte technische Wirkung, insbesondere deren pflegende Wirkung. The copolymers A and B described above or mixtures thereof are preferably combined with additional auxiliaries. Particularly preferred is the use of alcohols. A preferred class of alcohols are the diols, especially the 1, 2 diols. With particular preference is used 1, 2 octanediol. In particular, the 1, 2 Octanediol not only facilitates the further processing of the copolymers A and B, or their mixtures, but additionally reinforced their advantageous technical effect, in particular their nourishing effect.
Die vorgenannten Diole können gemeinsam mit den Copolymeren A und B, bzw. deren Gemisch, oder separat von den Copolymeren A und B in die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen Mittel eingearbeitet werden. Vor diesem Hintergrund sind erfindungsgemäße kosmetische Mittel bevorzugt, die weiterhin mindestens ein 1 ,2 Diol, vorzugsweise 1 ,2 Octandiol enthalten. The aforementioned diols can be incorporated together with the copolymers A and B, or their mixture, or separately from the copolymers A and B in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention. Against this background, preference is given to cosmetic agents according to the invention which also contain at least one 1, 2-diol, preferably 1-octanediol.
Ein erfindungsgemäß bevorzugtes Polymergemisch auf Grundlage der Copolymere A und B, wird unter der Bezeichnung Styleze® XT3 (INCI: Water (and) Polyimide-1 (and) PVM/MA Copoylmer (and) Caprylyl Glycol (proposed)) von der Firma ISP vertrieben. An inventively preferred polymer mixture based on the copolymers A and B, under the name Styleze ® XT3 (INCI: Water (and) Polyimide-1 (and) PVM / MA Copoylmer (and) Caprylyl Glycol (proposed)) sold by the company ISP ,
Die erfindungsgemäß verwendeten kosmetischen Mittel können zusätzlich mindestens ein weiteres, von den Copolymeren A und B verschiedenes festigendes Polymer enthalten. The cosmetic agents used according to the invention may additionally contain at least one further, different from the copolymers A and B consolidating polymer.
Festigende Polymere tragen zum Halt und/oder zum Aufbau des Haarvolumens und der Haarfülle der Gesamtfrisur bei. Diese Polymere sind gleichzeitig auch filmbildende Polymere und daher generell typische Substanzen für formgebende Haarbehandlungsmittel wie Haarfestiger, Haarschäume, Haarwachse, Haarsprays. Die Filmbildung kann dabei durchaus punktuell sein und nur einige Fasern miteinander verbinden. Firming polymers contribute to the maintenance and / or build-up of the hair volume and hair fullness of the overall hairstyle. These polymers are at the same time also film-forming polymers and therefore generally typical substances for shaping hair treatment agents such as hair setting agents, Hair mousses, hair waxes, hair sprays. The film formation can be quite selective and connect only a few fibers.
Als eine Testmethode für die festigende Wirkung eines Polymers werden häufig der so genannte Drei-Punkt-Biege-Test oder der curl-retention - Test angewendet. As a test method for the firming effect of a polymer, the so-called three-point bending test or curl-retention test is often used.
Unter filmbildenden Polymeren sind solche Polymere zu verstehen, welche beim Trocknen einen kontinuierlichen Film auf der Haut, dem Haar oder den Nägeln hinterlassen. Derartige Filmbildner können in den unterschiedlichsten kosmetischen Produkten wie beispielsweise Gesichtsmasken, Make-up, Haarfestigern, Haarsprays, Haargelen, Haarwachsen, Haarkuren, Shampoos oder Nagellacken verwendet werden. Bevorzugt sind insbesondere solche Polymere, die eine ausreichende Löslichkeit in Wasser oder Wasser/Alkohol-Gemischen besitzen, um in dem erfindungsgemäßen Mittel in vollständig gelöster Form vorzuliegen. Die filmbildenden Polymere können synthetischen oder natürlichen Ursprungs sein. Film-forming polymers are polymers which leave a continuous film on the skin, the hair or the nails when drying. Such film formers can be used in a wide variety of cosmetic products, such as for example face masks, make-up, hair fixatives, hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair treatments, shampoos or nail varnishes. Particular preference is given to polymers which have a sufficient solubility in water or water / alcohol mixtures in order to be present in completely completely dissolved form in the agent according to the invention. The film-forming polymers may be of synthetic or natural origin.
Unter filmbildenden Polymeren werden weiterhin erfindungsgemäß solche Polymere verstanden, die bei Anwendung in 0,01 bis 20 Gew.-%-iger wässriger, alkoholischer oder wässrigalkoholischer Lösung in der Lage sind, auf dem Haar einen transparenten Polymerfilm abzuscheiden. According to the invention, film-forming polymers are understood as meaning polymers which, when used in 0.01 to 20% strength by weight aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution, are capable of depositing a transparent polymer film on the hair.
Besonders vorteilhaft erweisen sich die Eigenschaften des erfindungsgemäßen Mittels, wenn es als Aerosolspray, Aerosolschaum, Pumpspray oder Pumpschaum konfektioniert wird. Diese bevorzugte Form der Konfektionierung wird später im Detail beschrieben. The properties of the agent according to the invention prove to be particularly advantageous when it is formulated as an aerosol spray, aerosol foam, pump spray or pump foam. This preferred form of packaging will be described later in detail.
Besonders bevorzugte filmbildende und/oder festigende Polymere sind anionisch. Unter einem anionischen Polymer wird erfindungsgemäß ein Polymer verstanden, das in einem protischen Lösemittel bei Standardbedingungen Struktureinheiten mit anionischen Gruppen, welche durch Gegenionen unter Erhaltung der Elektroneutralität kompensiert werden müssen, trägt und keine Struktureinheiten mit permanent kationischen Gruppen aufweist. Unter anionische Gruppen fallen Carboxyl- und Sulfonsäuregruppen. Particularly preferred film-forming and / or setting polymers are anionic. According to the invention, an anionic polymer is understood as meaning a polymer which, in standard conditions, contains structural units in a protic solvent with anionic groups which have to be compensated by counterions while maintaining electroneutrality and which has no structural units with permanently cationic groups. Anionic groups include carboxyl and sulfonic acid groups.
Als besonders wirksam haben sich filmbildende anionische und/oder festigende anionische Polymere erwiesen, die mindestens eine Struktureinheit der Formel (I) und mindestens eine Struktureinheit der Formel (II) umfassen, Film-forming anionic and / or reinforcing anionic polymers which comprise at least one structural unit of the formula (I) and at least one structural unit of the formula (II) have proven to be particularly effective,
worin R und R2 unabhängig voneinander für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine Methylgruppe stehen, mit der Maßgabe, dass R und R2 nicht gleichzeitig für eine Methylgruppe stehen, R3 für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine Methylgruppe steht, wherein R and R 2 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, with the proviso that R and R 2 do not simultaneously represent a methyl group, R 3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
R4 für eine Carbamoyl-Gruppe, eine lineare oder verzweigte (C4 bis d2)- Alkylaminocarbonylgruppe, eine lineare oder verzweigte (C4 bis Ci2)-Alkylaminoethyl- aminocarbonylgruppe, eine lineare oder verzweigte (C4 bis Ci2)-Alkylaminopropyl- aminocarbonylgruppe, eine lineare oder verzweigte (C4 bis C12)-Alkyloxycarbonylgruppe, eine lineare oder verzweigte (C4 bis Ci2)-Alkylaminoethyloxycarbonylgruppe, eine lineare oder verzweigte (C4 bis Ci2)-Alkylaminopropyloxycarbonylgruppe, eine lineare oder verzweigte (C2 bis Ci2)-Acyloxygruppe steht, R 4 represents a carbamoyl group, a linear or branched (C 4 d 2) - alkylaminocarbonyl group, a linear or branched (C 4 to C 2) -Alkylaminoethyl- aminocarbonyl group, a linear or branched (C 4 to C 2) - Alkylaminopropyl aminocarbonylgruppe, a linear or branched (C 4 to C 12 ) -Alkyloxycarbonylgruppe, a linear or branched (C 4 to Ci 2 ) -Alkylaminoethyloxycarbonylgruppe, a linear or branched (C 4 to Ci 2 ) -Alkylaminopropyloxycarbonylgruppe, a linear or branched (C 2 to Ci 2) is acyloxy,
A für eine Hydroxygruppe oder einen organischen Rest mit mindestens einer Sulfonsäuregruppe steht, der über ein Sauerstoffatom oder eine Gruppe NH an das Strukturfragment bindet.  A is a hydroxy group or an organic radical having at least one sulfonic acid group which binds to the structural fragment via an oxygen atom or a group NH.
Die zusätzlichen festigenden Polymere sind in dem erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Mittel bevorzugt in einer Menge von 0,5 Gew.-% bis 10 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt von 1 ,0 Gew.-% bis 9,0 Gew.-%, ganz besonders bevorzugt von 3,0 Gew.-% bis 8,0 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gewicht des erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Mittels, enthalten. The additional setting polymers are particularly preferred in the agent used in the invention in an amount of 0.5 wt .-% to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 1, 0 wt .-% to 9.0 wt .-%, especially preferably from 3.0% by weight to 8.0% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the composition used according to the invention.
Es ist erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt, wenn das zusätzliche festigende anionische Polymer mindestens eine Struktureinheit der Formel (I) enthält, die ausgewählt wird aus mindestens einer Struktureinheit der Formeln (1-1 ) bis (I-5) It is preferred according to the invention if the additional fixing anionic polymer contains at least one structural unit of the formula (I) which is selected from at least one structural unit of the formulas (1-1) to (I-5)
Dabei ist es wiederum besonders bevorzugt, wenn das besagte zusätzliche festigende Polymer neben den obigen Struktureinheiten der Formeln (I) und (II) zusätzlich mindestens eine Struktureinheit der Formel (III) enthält (III) In this case, it is again particularly preferred if the said additional fixing polymer additionally contains at least one structural unit of the formula (III) in addition to the above structural units of the formulas (I) and (II) (III)
worin wherein
R 5 steht für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine Methylgruppe R 5 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
R 6 steht für eine (Ci bis C4)-Alkylgruppe (insbesondere eine Methylgruppe oder eine Ethylgruppe). R 6 is a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl group (in particular a methyl group or an ethyl group).
Copolymere aus Methacrylsäure und Ethylacrylat und tert-Butylacrylat eignen sich beispielsweise als bevorzugt. Copolymers of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate and tert-butyl acrylate are for example preferred.
Es ist erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt, wenn das zusätzliche festigende anionische Polymer mindestens eine Struktureinheit der Formel (II) enthält, die ausgewählt wird aus mindestens einer Struktureinheit der Formeln (11-1 ) bis (11-15) It is particularly preferred according to the invention if the additional reinforcing anionic polymer contains at least one structural unit of the formula (II) which is selected from at least one structural unit of the formulas (11-1) to (11-15)
(II-4) (II-5) (II-6) ) (II-4) (II-5) (II-6) )
Me c=o c=o o  Me c = o c = o o
I I I I II
NH, NhL NH, NHL
(11-13) (11-14) R5 (11-15) worin (11-13) (11-14) R 5 (11-15) wherein
X für ein Sauerstoffatom oder eine Gruppe NH steht,  X is an oxygen atom or a group NH,
R für eine (C2 bis C12)-Acylgruppe (insbesondere für Acetyl oder Neodecanoyl) steht. R is a (C 2 to C 12 ) acyl group (in particular acetyl or neodecanoyl).
Es ist erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt, wenn X3 gemäß Formeln (II-5) bis (11-12) für ein Sauerstoffatom steht. It is preferred according to the invention if X 3 according to formulas (II-5) to (11-12) stands for an oxygen atom.
Im Rahmen einer ersten bevorzugten Ausführungsform der Erfindung enthält das erfindungsgemäß verwendete Mittel mindestens ein zusätzliches festigendes anionisches Polymer, welches mindestens eine Struktureinheit der Formel (1-1 ), mindestens eine Struktureinheit der Formel (II-3) und mindestens eine Struktureinheit der Formel (11-16) (insbesondere ausgewählt aus der Gruppe, die gebildet wird aus obigen Formeln (II-5) bis (11-12) mit der Maßgabe, dass X3 für ein Sauerstoffatom steht), In the context of a first preferred embodiment of the invention, the agent used according to the invention comprises at least one additional fixing anionic polymer which has at least one structural unit of the formula (1-1), at least one structural unit of the formula (II-3) and at least one structural unit of the formula (II -16) (especially selected from the group formed from the above formulas (II-5) to (11-12) with the proviso that X 3 represents an oxygen atom),
worin X3 steht für ein Sauerstoffatom oder eine Gruppe NH, wherein X 3 is an oxygen atom or a group NH,
R6 steht für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine Methylgruppe und R 6 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group and
R7 steht für eine Alkylgruppe mit 4 Kohlenstoffatomen (insbesondere n-Butyl, sec-Butyl, iso-Butyl oder tert-Butyl). R 7 is an alkyl group having 4 carbon atoms (especially n-butyl, sec-butyl, iso-butyl or tert-butyl).
Dabei ist es wiederum besonders bevorzugt, wenn das zusätzliche festigende Polymer neben den obigen Struktureinheiten der Formeln (1-1 ), (II-3) und (11-16) zusätzlich mindestens eine Struktureinheit der Formel (III) enthält In this case, it is again particularly preferred if the additional fixing polymer in addition to the above structural units of the formulas (1-1), (II-3) and (11-16) additionally contains at least one structural unit of the formula (III)
(III) (III)
worin wherein
R8 steht für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine Methylgruppe R 8 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
R9 steht für eine (Ci bis C4)-Alkylgruppe (insbesondere eine Methylgruppe oder eine Ethylgruppe). R 9 is a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl group (in particular a methyl group or an ethyl group).
Bevorzugte zusätzliche festigende Polymere dieser Art werden ausgewählt aus der Gruppe, die gebildet wird aus: Preferred additional strengthening polymers of this type are selected from the group formed by:
Copolymeren aus Acrylsäure, (C-ι bis C4)-Alkylacrylaten, C4-Alkylaminoethylmethacrylat und Cs-Alkylacrylamid. Copolymers of acrylic acid, (C-ι to C 4 ) -alkyl acrylates, C 4 -alkylaminoethyl methacrylate and Cs-alkylacrylamide.
Ein Beispiel eines besonders bevorzugt im Rahmen dieser Ausführungsform verwendbaren Polymers ist das unter dem Handelsnamen Amphomer® 028-4910 von der Firma National Starch erhältliche Polymer mit der INCI-Bezeichung An example of a particularly preferred usable in this embodiment, the polymer is that available under the trade name Amphomer ® 028-4910 from National Starch polymer having the INCI name
Octylacrylamide/Acrylates/Butylaminoethylmethacrylate Copolymer. Octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer.
Im Rahmen einer weiteren Ausführungsform gelten solche Mittel als erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt, die als zusätzliches anionisches festigendes Polymer mindestens ein Polymer enthalten, das mindestens eine Struktureinheit der Formel (I-3) und mindestens eine Struktureinheit der Formel (I- 13) enthalten Within the scope of a further embodiment, those agents are preferred according to the invention which comprise as additional anionic setting polymer at least one polymer which contains at least one structural unit of the formula (I-3) and at least one structural unit of the formula (I-13)
Bevorzugte Polymere dieser Art werden ausgewählt aus mindestens einem Polymer der Gruppe, die gebildet wird aus  Preferred polymers of this type are selected from at least one polymer of the group that is formed
- Copolymeren aus 2-Acrylamido-2-methyl-propansulfonsäure und Acrylamid,  Copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylamide,
- Copolymeren aus 2-Acrylamido-2-methyl-propansulfonsäure, Acrylamid und Acrylsäure.  - Copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl-propanesulfonic acid, acrylamide and acrylic acid.
Polymere dieser Art werden beispielsweise in einer inversen Isohexadecan-Emulsion von der Firma Seppic unter dem Handelsnamen Sepigel® 305 (INCI-Bezeichnung: Polyacrylamide, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Laureth-7) oder Simulgel® 600 (INCI-Bezeichnung: Acrylamide/Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Polysorbate-80) vertrieben. Polymers of this type are, for example, in an inverse isohexadecane emulsion by the company SEPPIC under the trade name Sepigel ® 305 (INCI name: Polyacrylamide, C13-14 isoparaffin, laureth-7) or Simulgel ® 600 (INCI name: Acrylamide / Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer , Isohexadecane, polysorbate-80).
Ein erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt verwendetes Mittel ist dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es als Polymer ein Copolymer (b1 ) enthält. An agent used particularly preferably according to the invention is characterized in that it contains as polymer a copolymer (b1).
Diese Copolymere (b1 ) lassen sich durch die allgemeine Formel These copolymers (b1) can be defined by the general formula
beschreiben, wobei die Indices m, n und o je nach Molmasse des Polymers variieren und nicht bedeuten sollen, dass es sich um Blockcopolymere handelt. Vielmehr können Struktureinheiten im Molekül statistisch verteilt vorliegen. describe, wherein the indices m, n and o vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner.
Besonders bevorzugt verwendete erfindungsgemäße Mittel sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das Copolymer (b1 ) eine Molmasse von 50 bis 500 kDa, vorzugsweise von 100 bis 450 kDa, weiter bevorzugt von 150 bis 400 kDa und insbesondere von 200 bis 300 kDa aufweist. Particularly preferred agents used according to the invention are characterized in that the copolymer (b1) has a molecular weight of 50 to 500 kDa, preferably 100 to 450 kDa, more preferably 150 to 400 kDa and especially 200 to 300 kDa.
Copolymere von Acrylamid mit Methacrylsäure und Acryloyldimethyltaurat sind beispielsweise unter dem Handelsnamen Acudyne® SCP (Rohm & Haas) erhältlich. Copolymers of acrylamide with methacrylic acid and acryloyldimethyltaurate are available for example under the trade name Acudyne ® SCP (Rohm & Haas).
Im Rahmen einer weiteren Ausführungsform gelten solche Mittel als erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt, die als zusätzliches anionisches festigendes Polymer mindestens ein Polymer enthalten, das mindestens eine Struktureinheit der Formel (I-3) und mindestens eine Struktureinheit der Formel (I- 13) enthalten In the context of a further embodiment, such agents are preferred as being according to the invention which contain as additional anionic setting polymer at least one polymer which at least one structural unit of the formula (I-3) and at least one structural unit of the formula (I-13)
worin R5 für eine (C2 bis d2)-Acylgruppe (insbesondere für Acetyl oder Neodecanoyl) steht. wherein R 5 is a (C 2 to d 2 ) acyl group (in particular acetyl or neodecanoyl).
Besonders bevorzugte Polymere dieser Art werden ausgewählt aus mindestens einem Polymer der Gruppe, die gebildet wird aus Particularly preferred polymers of this type are selected from at least one polymer of the group formed
- Copolymeren aus Vinylacetat und Crotonsäure.  - Copolymers of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid.
- Copolymeren aus Vinylpropionat und Crotonsäure,  - copolymers of vinyl propionate and crotonic acid,
- Copolymeren aus Vinylneodecanoat, Vinylacetat und Crotonsäure.  - Copolymers of vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl acetate and crotonic acid.
Solche Copolymere werden beispielsweise von der Firma Clariant unter dem Handelsnamen Aristoflex A 60 (INCI-Bezeichnung: VA Crotonates Copolymer) in einem Isopropanol-Wasser- Gemisch (60 Gew.-% Aktivsubstanz), von der Firma BASF unter dem Handelsnamen Luviset CA 66 (Vinylacetat/Crotonsäure-Copolymer 90: 10, INCI-Bezeichnung VA Crotonates Copolymer) bereitgestellt, von der Firma National Starch unter dem Handelsnamen Resyn 28-2942 bzw. Resyn 28-2930 (INCI-Bezeichnung: VA/Crotonates/Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymer) bereitgestellt. Such copolymers are, for example, from the company Clariant under the trade name Aristoflex A 60 (INCI name: VA Crotonates Copolymer) in an isopropanol-water mixture (60 wt .-% active ingredient), from BASF under the trade name Luviset CA 66 ( Vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymer 90:10, INCI name VA Crotonates Copolymer) provided by National Starch under the trade name Resyn 28-2942 or Resyn 28-2930 (INCI name: VA / Crotonates / Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymer) ,
Im Rahmen dieser Ausführungsformen eignen sich die zuvor genannten bevorzugten Ausführungsformen der Copolymere A und B als bevorzugt (vide supra). In the context of these embodiments, the aforementioned preferred embodiments of the copolymers A and B are preferred (vide supra).
Gleichsam gelten alle zuvor genannten bevorzugten Mengenangaben bezüglich der Copolymere A und B zur Verwendung des erfindungsgemäßen Mittels auch für diese Ausführungsformen mutatis mutandis als bevorzugt.  Similarly, all of the above-mentioned preferred quantities with respect to the copolymers A and B for the use of the agent according to the invention are also mutatis mutandis preferred for these embodiments.
Die Formulierung der erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Mittel kann in allen für Haarpflegemittel üblichen Formen erfolgen, beispielsweise in Form von Lösungen, die als Haarwasser oder Pumpoder Aerosolspray auf das Haar aufgebracht werden können, in Form von Cremes, Emulsionen, Wachsen, Gelen oder auch tensidhaltigen schäumenden Lösungen oder anderen Zubereitungen, die für die Anwendung auf dem Haar geeignet sind. Vorzugsweise werden die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel als Creme oder Gel oder Pumpschaum oder Aerosolschaum ausgestaltet. Insbesondere liegt der kosmetische Träger in Cremeform oder Gelform oder Schaumform vor. The formulation of the compositions used according to the invention can be carried out in all forms customary for hair care products, for example in the form of solutions which can be applied to the hair as hair lotions or pump or aerosol spray, in the form of creams, emulsions, waxes, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions or other preparations suitable for use on the hair. The agents according to the invention are preferably configured as a cream or gel or pump foam or aerosol foam. In particular, the cosmetic carrier is in cream form or gel form or foam form.
Unter einer Creme ist erfindungsgemäß eine Zusammensetzung in Form eines dispersen Systems zu verstehen, die neben Wasser zusätzlich Fett und/oder Öl enthält. Bevorzugt geeignete Fette bzw. Öle werden im Verlaufe dieser Anmeldung beschrieben (vide infra).  According to the invention, a cream is understood to mean a composition in the form of a disperse system which, in addition to water, additionally contains fat and / or oil. Preferably suitable fats or oils are described in the course of this application (vide infra).
Unter einem Gel ist erfindungsgemäß ein formbeständiges, leicht deformierbares und disperses System zu verstehen, das aus einem kolloid zerteilten Stoff mit langen oder stark verzweigten Teilchen und einer Flüssigkeit als Dispersionsmittel bestehen. Als lange oder stark verzweigte Teilchen dienen bevorzugt polymere Verdickungsmittel (vide infra). According to the invention, a gel is to be understood to mean a dimensionally stable, easily deformable and dispersed system which consists of a colloidally divided substance with a long or highly branched structure Particles and a liquid exist as a dispersant. Long or highly branched particles are preferably polymeric thickeners (vide infra).
Unter einem Schaum ist erfindungsgemäß ein disperses System zu verstehen, in dem ein Gas als zerteilte Phase in einer Flüssigkeit als kontinuierliche Phase vorliegt.  A foam according to the invention is understood to mean a disperse system in which a gas is present as a divided phase in a liquid as a continuous phase.
Zur Intensivierung des erfindungsgemäßen Effektes enthalten die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel vorzugsweise zusätzlich mindestens ein Tensid, wobei sich prinzipiell nichtionische, anionische, kationische, ampholytische Tenside eignen. Die Gruppe der ampholytischen oder auch amphoteren Tenside umfasst zwitterionische Tenside und Ampholyte. Die Tenside können erfindungsgemäß bereits emulgierende Wirkung haben.  In order to intensify the effect according to the invention, the agents according to the invention preferably additionally contain at least one surfactant, nonionic, anionic, cationic, ampholytic surfactants being suitable in principle. The group of ampholytic or amphoteric surfactants includes zwitterionic surfactants and ampholytes. The surfactants according to the invention may already have emulsifying activity.
Die zusätzlichen Tenside sind in dem erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Mittel bevorzugt in einer Menge von 0,01 Gew.-% bis 5 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt von 0,05 Gew.-% bis 0,5 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gewicht des Mittels, enthalten.  The additional surfactants are preferably used in the agent used in the invention in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.05 wt .-% to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the agent, included.
Es hat sich als besonders bevorzugt erwiesen, wenn die erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Mittel zusätzlich mindestens ein nichtionisches Tensid enthalten. It has proved to be particularly preferred if the agents used according to the invention additionally comprise at least one nonionic surfactant.
Nichtionische Tenside enthalten als hydrophile Gruppe z.B. eine Polyolgruppe, eine Polyalkylenglykolethergruppe oder eine Kombination aus Polyol- und Polyglykolethergruppe. Solche Verbindungen sind beispielsweise  Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group, or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Such compounds are, for example
Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 100 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 1 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C- Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,  Addition products of 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group .
mit einem Methyl- oder C2 - C6 - Alkylrest endgruppenverschlossene Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 1 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe, wie beispielsweise die unter den Verkaufsbezeichnungen Dehydol® LS, Dehydol® LT (Cognis) erhältlichen Typen, with a methyl or C 2 - C 6 - alkyl radical end-capped addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and with alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as those available under the trade names Dehydol ® LS, LT Dehydol ® types (Cognis),
Ci2-C30-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin, C 12 -C 30 -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with glycerol,
Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl, Polyolfettsäureester, wie beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Hydagen® HSP (Cognis) oder Sovermol - Typen (Cognis), Addition products of 5 to 60 mol ethylene oxide onto castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, polyol fatty acid esters, such as the commercially available product ® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol - types (Cognis),
alkoxilierte Triglyceride,  alkoxylated triglycerides,
alkoxilierte Fettsäurealkylester der Formel (E4-I)  alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula (E4-I)
R CO-(OCH2CHR2)wOR3 (E4-I) R CO- (OCH 2 CHR 2 ) w OR 3 (E4-I)
in der R CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, R2 für Wasserstoff oder Methyl, R3 für lineare oder verzweigte Alkylreste mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen und w für Zahlen von 1 bis 20 steht, in which R is CO for a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R 2 is hydrogen or methyl, R 3 is linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is a number from 1 to 20 .
Aminoxide, Hydroxymischether, wie sie beispielsweise in der DE-OS 19738866 beschrieben sind, Sorbitanfettsäureester und Anlagerungeprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Sorbitanfettsäureester wie beispielsweise die Polysorbate, Amine oxides, Hydroxy mixed ethers, as described, for example, in DE-OS 19738866, sorbitan fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide onto sorbitan fatty acid esters, for example the polysorbates,
Zuckerfettsäureester und Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Zuckerfettsäureester, Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettamine,  Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters, addition products of ethylene oxide onto fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,
Zuckertenside vom Typ der Alkyl- und Alkenyloligoglykoside gemäß Formel (E4-II),  Sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type of formula (E4-II),
R40-[G]p (E4-II) R 4 0- [G] p (E4-II)
in der R4 für einen Alkyl- oder Alkenylrest mit 4 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, G für einen Zuckerrest mit 5 oder 6 Kohlenstoffatomen und p für Zahlen von 1 bis 10 steht. Sie können nach den einschlägigen Verfahren der präparativen organischen Chemie erhalten werden. in which R 4 is an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry.
Als ganz besonders bevorzugte nichtionische Tenside haben sich die Alkylenoxid- Anlagerungsprodukte an gesättigte lineare Fettalkohole und Fettsäuren mit jeweils 2 bis 100 Mol Ethylenoxid pro Mol Fettalkohol bzw. Fettsäure erwiesen. Zubereitungen mit hervorragenden Eigenschaften werden ebenfalls erhalten, wenn sie als nichtionische Tenside Ci2-C30- Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin und/oder Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl enthalten. The alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids with in each case 2 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid have proven to be very particularly preferred nonionic surfactants. Preparations with excellent properties are also obtained when they contain as nonionic surfactants C 2 -C 30 fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol and / or addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil ,
Ganz besonders bevorzugt enthalten die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel als Tensid mindestens ein Anlagerungsprodukt von 15 bis 100 mol Ethylenoxid, insbesondere von 15 bis 50 mol Ethylenoxid an einen linearen oder verzweigten (insbesondere linearen) Fettalkohol mit 8 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen. Es handelt sich dabei ganz besonders bevorzugt um Ceteareth-15, Ceteareth- 25 oder Ceteareth-50, welche als Eumulgin® CS 15 (COGNIS), Cremophor A25 (BASF SE) bzw. Eumulgin® CS 50 (COGNIS) vermarktet werden. The agents according to the invention as surfactant very particularly preferably contain at least one addition product of from 15 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, in particular from 15 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide, to a linear or branched (in particular linear) fatty alcohol having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms. These are very particularly preferably Ceteareth-15, Ceteareth-25 or Ceteareth- 50, which are marketed as Eumulgin ® CS 15 (Cognis), Cremophor A25 (BASF SE) or Eumulgin ® CS 50 (Cognis).
Als anionische Tenside eignen sich prinzipiell alle für die Verwendung am menschlichen Körper geeigneten anionischen oberflächenaktiven Stoffe. Diese sind gekennzeichnet durch eine wasserlöslich machende, anionische Gruppe wie z. B. eine Carboxylat-, Sulfat-, Sulfonat- oder Phosphat-Gruppe und eine lipophile Alkylgruppe mit etwa 8 bis 30 C-Atomen. Zusätzlich können im Molekül Glykol- oder Polyglykolether-Gruppen, Ester-, Ether- und Amidgruppen sowie Hydroxylgruppen enthalten sein. Beispiele für geeignete anionische Tenside sind, jeweils in Form der Natrium-, Kalium- und Ammonium- sowie der Mono-, Di- und Trialkanolammoniumsalze mit 2 bis 4 C- Atomen in der Alkanolgruppe, Suitable anionic surfactants are in principle all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group,
lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen (Seifen),  linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),
Ethercarbonsäuren der Formel R-0-(CH2-CH20)x-CH2-COOH, in der R eine lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 16 ist, Ether carboxylic acids of the formula R-O- (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -CH 2 -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,
Acylsarcoside mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,  Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
Acyltauride mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe, Acylisethionate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe, Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und -dialkylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und Sulfobernsteinsäuremono-alkylpolyoxyethylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6 Oxyethylgruppen,  Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
lineare Alkansulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,  linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 C atoms,
lineare Alpha-Olefinsulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,  linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 C atoms,
Alpha-Sulfofettsäuremethylester von Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen,  Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
- Alkylsulfate und Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate der Formel R-0(CH2-CH20)x-OS03H, in der R eine bevorzugt lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 12 ist, Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula R-O (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -OSO 3 H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,
Gemische oberflächenaktiver Hydroxysulfonate,  Mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates,
sulfatierte Hydroxyalkylpolyethylen- und/oder Hydroxyalkylenpropylenglykolether,  sulfated hydroxyalkylpolyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene glycol ethers,
Sulfonate ungesättigter Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen und 1 bis 6 Doppelbindungen, Ester der Weinsäure und Zitronensäure mit Alkoholen, die Anlagerungsprodukte von etwa 2-15 Molekülen Ethylenoxid und/oder Propylenoxid an Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen darstellen,  Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds, esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
sulfatierte Fettsäurealkylenglykolester der Formel (E1-II)  sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula (E1-II)
R7CO(AlkO)nS03M (E1-II) R 7 CO (AlkO) n SO 3 M (E1-II)
in der R7CO- für einen linearen oder verzweigten, aliphatischen, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 C-Atomen, Alk für CH2CH2, CHCH3CH2 und/oder CH2CHCH3, n für Zahlen von 0,5 bis 5 und M für ein Kation steht, wie sie in der DE-OS 197 36 906 beschrieben sind, in the R 7 CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Alk for CH 2 CH 2 , CHCH 3 CH 2 and / or CH 2 CHCH 3 , n for numbers from 0.5 to 5 and M is a cation, as described in DE-OS 197 36 906,
Am id ethercarbonsäu ren ,  At id ethercarbonsäu ren,
Kondensationsprodukte aus C8 - C30 - Fettalkoholen mit Proteinhydrolysaten und/oder Aminosäuren und deren Derivaten, welche dem Fachmann als Eiweissfettsäurekondensate bekannt sind, wie beispielsweise die Lamepon® - Typen, Gluadin® - Typen, Hostapon® KCG oder die Amisoft® - Typen. Condensation products of C 8 - C 30 - fatty alcohols with protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids and their derivatives, which are known to the skilled person as protein fatty acid condensates, such as Lamepon ® - types Gluadin ® - types Hostapon ® KCG or Amisoft ® - types.
Bevorzugte anionische Tenside sind Alkylsulfate, Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate und Ether- carbonsäuren mit 10 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und bis zu 12 Glykolethergruppen im Molekül, Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und -dialkylester mit 8 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und Sulfobernsteinsäuremono-alkylpolyoxyethylester mit 8 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6 Oxyethylgruppen, Monoglycerdisulfate, Alkyl- und Alkenyletherphosphate sowie Eiweissfettsäurekondensate. Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerdisulfate, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and Eiweissfettsäurekondensate.
Erfindungsgemäß einsetzbar sind weiterhin kationische Tenside vom Typ der quartären Ammoniumverbindungen, der Esterquats und der Amidoamine. Bevorzugte quaternäre Ammoniumverbindungen sind Ammoniumhalogenide, insbesondere Chloride und Bromide, wie Alkyl- trimethylammoniumchloride, Dialkyldimethylammoniumchloride und Trialkylmethylammonium- chloride. Die langen Alkylketten dieser Tenside weisen bevorzugt 10 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatome auf, wie z. B. in Cetyltrimethylammoniumchlorid, Stearyltrimethylammoniumchlorid, Distearyldimethyl- ammoniumchlorid, Lauryldimethylamnrioniunrichlorid, Lauryldimethylbenzylamnrioniunrichlorid und Tricetylmethylammoniumchlorid. Weitere bevorzugte kationische Tenside sind die unter den INCI- Bezeichnungen Quaternium-27 und Quaternium-83 bekannten Imidazolium-Verbindungen. Also usable according to the invention are cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats and the amidoamines. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides. The long alkyl chains of these surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms, such as In cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium trichloride, lauryldimethylbenzylamine, and tricetylmethylammonium chloride. Further preferred cationic surfactants are the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.
Als zwitterionische Tenside werden solche oberflächenaktiven Verbindungen bezeichnet, die im Molekül mindestens eine quartäre Ammoniumgruppe und mindestens eine -COO<_) - oder -S03 <_) - Gruppe tragen. Besonders geeignete zwitterionische Tenside sind die sogenannten Betaine wie die N-Alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium-glycinate, beispielsweise das Kokosalkyl-dimethylammonium- glycinat, N-Acyl-aminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, beispielsweise das Kokosacyl- aminopropyl-dimethylammoniumglycinat, und 2-Alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazoline mit jeweils 8 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkyl- oder Acylgruppe sowie das Kokosacylaminoethylhy- droxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat. Ein bevorzugtes zwitterionisches Tensid ist das unter der INCI- Bezeichnung Cocamidopropyl Betaine bekannte Fettsäureamid-Derivat. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO <_) in the molecule - Wear group - or -S0 3 <_). Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
Unter Ampholyten werden solche oberflächenaktiven Verbindungen verstanden, die außer einer C8 - C24 - Alkyl- oder -Acylgruppe im Molekül mindestens eine freie Aminogruppe und mindestens eine -COOH- oder -S03H-Gruppe enthalten und zur Ausbildung innerer Salze befähigt sind. Beispiele für geeignete Ampholyte sind N-Alkylglycine, N-Alkylpropionsäuren, N-Alkylaminobuttersäuren, N- Alkyliminodipropionsäuren, N-Hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-Alkyltaurine, N-Al- kylsarcosine, 2-Alkylaminopropionsäuren und Alkylaminoessigsäuren mit jeweils etwa 8 bis 24 C- Atomen in der Alkylgruppe. Besonders bevorzugte Ampholyte sind das N- Kokosalkylaminopropionat, das Kokosacylaminoethylaminopropionat und das d2 - Ci8 - Acylsarcosin. Ampholytes are surface-active compounds which, apart from a C 8 - C 2 4 - alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -S0 3 H group in the molecule and are capable of forming inner salts , Examples of suitable ampholytes are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytes are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and the d 2 -C 8 -acylsarcosine.
Die erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Mittel enthalten die Inhalts- bzw.- Wirkstoffe in einem kosmetisch akzeptablen Träger. The agents used according to the invention contain the ingredients or active ingredients in a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
Bevorzugte kosmetisch akzeptable Träger sind wässrige, alkoholische oder wässrigalkoholische Medien mit vorzugsweise mindestens 10 Gew.-% Wasser, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel. Als Alkohole können insbesondere die für kosmetische Zwecke üblicherweise verwendeten niederen Alkohole mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen wie zum Beispiel Ethanol und Isopropanol enthalten sein. Es ist erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt mindestens einen (Ci bis C4)-Monoalkylalkohol in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln insbesondere in einer Menge von 1 bis 50 Gew.-% insbesondere von 5 bis 30 Gew.-% einzusetzen. Dies ist wiederum insbesondere für die Konfektionierung als Pumpschaum oder Aerosolschaum bevorzugt. Preferred cosmetically acceptable carriers are aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic media with preferably at least 10% by weight of water, based on the total agent. As alcohols, it is possible in particular to include the lower alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms usually used for cosmetic purposes, such as, for example, ethanol and isopropanol. According to the invention, it is preferred to use at least one (C 1 to C 4 ) monoalkyl alcohol in the agents according to the invention, in particular in an amount of from 1 to 50% by weight, in particular from 5 to 30% by weight. This is in turn preferred in particular for the packaging as pump foam or aerosol foam.
Als zusätzliche Co-Solventien können organische Lösungsmittel oder ein Gemisch aus Lösungsmitteln mit einem Siedepunkt unter 400°C in einer Menge von 0, 1 bis 15 Gewichtsprozent, bevorzugt von 1 bis 10 Gewichtsprozent bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel enthalten sein. Besonders geeignet als zusätzliche Co-Solventien sind unverzweigte oder verzweigte Kohlenwasserstoffe wie Pentan, Hexan, Isopentan und cyclische Kohlenwasserstoffe wie Cyclopentan und Cyclohexan. Weitere, besonders bevorzugte wasserlösliche Lösungsmittel sind Glycerin, Ethylenglykol und Propylenglykol in einer Menge bis 30 Gew.-% bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel. As additional co-solvents, organic solvents or a mixture of solvents having a boiling point below 400 ° C in an amount of 0, 1 to 15 weight percent, preferably from 1 to 10 weight percent based on the total agent may be included. Particularly suitable as additional co-solvents are unbranched or branched hydrocarbons such Pentane, hexane, isopentane and cyclic hydrocarbons such as cyclopentane and cyclohexane. Further, particularly preferred water-soluble solvents are glycerol, ethylene glycol and propylene glycol in an amount of up to 30% by weight, based on the total agent.
Insbesondere der Zusatz von Glycerin und/oder Propylenglykol und/oder Polyethylenglykol und/oder Polypropylenglykol erhöht die Flexibilität des bei Anwendung des erfindungsgemäßen Mittels gebildeten Polymerfilms. Wird also ein flexibler Halt gewünscht, enthalten die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel vorzugsweise 0,01 bis 30 Gew.-% Glycerin und/oder Propylenglykol und/oder Polyethylenglykol und/oder Polypropylenglykol bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel. In particular, the addition of glycerol and / or propylene glycol and / or polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol increases the flexibility of the polymer film formed when the agent according to the invention is used. Thus, if a flexible hold is desired, the compositions according to the invention preferably contain from 0.01 to 30% by weight of glycerol and / or propylene glycol and / or polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol, based on the total agent.
Die Mittel weisen bevorzugt einen pH-Wert von 6,8 bis 9,5, insbesondere von 7,0 bis 8,5, auf. Die Angaben zum pH-Wert beziehen sich dabei im Sinne dieser Schrift auf den pH-Wert bei 25°C, sofern nichts anderes vermerkt ist. The agents preferably have a pH of from 6.8 to 9.5, in particular from 7.0 to 8.5, on. For the purposes of this document, the pH values refer to the pH at 25 ° C, unless stated otherwise.
Die erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Mittel können weiterhin die Hilfs- und Zusatzstoffe enthalten, die üblicherweise herkömmlichen Stylingmitteln zugesetzt werden. The compositions used according to the invention may further comprise the auxiliaries and additives which are usually added to conventional styling agents.
Als geeignete Hilfs- und Zusatzstoffe sind insbesondere zusätzliche Pflegestoffe zu nennen.  As suitable auxiliaries and additives in particular additional care substances are mentioned.
Als Pflegestoff kann beispielsweise ein Silikonöl und/oder ein Silikongum eingesetzt werden. As a care material, for example, a silicone oil and / or a silicone gum can be used.
Erfindungsgemäß geeignete Silikonöle oder Silikongums sind insbesondere Dialkyl- und Alkylarylsiloxane, wie beispielsweise Dimethylpolysiloxan und Methylphenylpolysiloxan, sowie deren alkoxylierte, quaternierte oder auch anionische Derivate. Bevorzugt sind cyclische und lineare Polydialkylsiloxane, deren alkoxylierte und/oder aminierte Derivate, Dihydroxypoly- dimethylsiloxane und Polyphenylalkylsiloxane. Silicone oils or silicone gums which are suitable according to the invention are in particular dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes, for example dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, and also their alkoxylated, quaternized or else anionic derivatives. Preference is given to cyclic and linear polydialkylsiloxanes, their alkoxylated and / or aminated derivatives, dihydroxypoly-dimethylsiloxanes and polyphenylalkylsiloxanes.
Silikonöle bewirken die unterschiedlichsten Effekte. So beeinflussen sie beispielsweise gleichzeitig die Trocken- und Nasskämmbarkeiten, den Griff des trockenen und nassen Haares sowie den Glanz. Unter dem Begriff Silikonöle versteht der Fachmann mehrere Strukturen Silicium- organischer Verbindungen. Zunächst werden hierunter die Dimethiconole verstanden. Silicone oils cause a wide variety of effects. For example, at the same time they influence the dry and wet combability, the grip of dry and wet hair and the shine. The term "silicone oils" is understood by the person skilled in the art as meaning several structures of silicon-organic compounds. Initially, this is understood to mean the dimethiconols.
Als Beispiele für derartige Produkte werden die folgenden Handelsprodukte genannt: Botanisil NU- 150M (Botanigenics), Dow Corning 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9026 Fluid, Ultrapure Dimethiconol (Ultra Chemical), Unisil SF-R (Universal Preserve), X-21-5619 (Shin- Etsu Chemical Co.), Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Specialties), ACC DL-9430 Emulsion (Taylor Chemical Company), AEC Dimethiconol & Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate (A & E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics) Ltd.), B C Dimethiconol Emulsion 95 (Basildon Chemical Company, Ltd.), Cosmetic Fluid 1401 , Cosmetic Fluid 1403, Cosmetic Fluid 1501 , Cosmetic Fluid 1401 DC (alle zuvor genannten Chemsil Silicones, Inc.), Dow Corning 1401 Fluid, Dow Corning 1403 Fluid, Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend (alle zuvor genannten Dow Corning Corporation), Dub Gel Sl 1400 (Stearinerie Dubois Fils), HVM 4852 Emulsion (Crompton Corporation), Jeesilc 6056 (Jeen International Corporation), Lubrasil, Lubrasil DS (beide Guardian Laboratories), Nonychosine E, Nonychosine V (beide Exsymol), SanSurf Petrolatum-25, Satin Finish (beide Collaborative Laboratories, Inc.), Silatex-D30 (Cosmetic Ingredient Resources), Silsoft 148, Silsoft E-50, Silsoft E-623 (alle zuvor genannten Crompton Corporation), SM555, SM2725, SM2765, SM2785 (alle zuvor genannten GE Silicones), Taylor T-Sil CD-1 , Taylor TME-4050E (alle Taylor Chemical Company), TH V 148 (Crompton Corporation), Tixogel CYD-1429 (Sud-Chemie Performance Additives), Wacker-Belsil CM 1000, Wacker-Belsil CM 3092, Wacker-Belsil CM 5040, Wacker-Belsil DM 3096, Wacker-Belsil DM 31 12 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 8005 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 60081 VP (alle zuvor genannten Wacker- Chemie GmbH). Examples of such products include the following commercial products: Botanisil NU-150M (Botanigenics), Dow Coming 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9026 Fluid, Ultrapure Dimethiconol (Ultra Chemical), Unisil SF- R (Universal Preserve), X-21-5619 (Shin- Etsu Chemical Co.), Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Specialties), ACC DL-9430 Emulsion (Taylor Chemical Company), AEC Dimethiconol & Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate (A & E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics) Ltd.), BC Dimethiconol Emulsion 95 (Basildon Chemical Company, Ltd.), Cosmetic Fluid 1401, Cosmetic Fluid 1403, Cosmetic Fluid 1501, Cosmetic Fluid 1401 DC (all aforementioned Chemsil Silicones, Inc.), Dow Corning 1401 Fluid, Dow Corning 1403 Fluid, Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend (all aforementioned Dow Corning Corporation), Dub Gel Sl 1400 (Stearinerie Dubois Fils), HVM 4852 Emulsion (Crompton Corporation), Jeesilc 6056 (Jeen Internationa l Corporation), Lubrasil, Lubrasil DS (both Guardian Laboratories), Nonychosine E, Nonychosine V (both exsymol), SanSurf Petrolatum-25, Satin Finish (both Collaborative Laboratories, Inc.), Silatex-D30 (Cosmetic Ingredient Resources), Silsoft 148, Silsoft E -50, Silsoft E-623 (all aforementioned Crompton Corporation), SM555, SM2725, SM2765, SM2785 (all aforementioned GE Silicones), Taylor T-Sil CD-1, Taylor TME-4050E (all Taylor Chemical Company), TH V 148 (Crompton Corporation), Tixogel CYD-1429 (Sud-Chemie Performance Additives), Wacker-Belsil CM 1000, Wacker-Belsil CM 3092, Wacker-Belsil CM 5040, Wacker-Belsil DM 3096, Wacker-Belsil DM 31 12 VP , Wacker-Belsil DM 8005 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 60081 VP (all Wacker-Chemie GmbH mentioned above).
Dimethicone bilden die zweite Gruppe der Silikone, welche erfindungsgemäß enthalten sein können. Diese können sowohl linear als auch verzweigt als auch cyclisch oder cyclisch und verzweigt sein. Dimethicones form the second group of silicones which may be present according to the invention. These may be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched.
Dimethiconcopolyole (S3) bilden eine weitere Gruppe von Silikonen, die geeignet sind. Entsprechende Dimethiconcopolyole sind kommerziell erhältlich und werden beispielsweise von der Firma Dow Corning unter der Bezeichnung Dow Corning ® 5330 Fluid vertrieben. Dimethicone copolyols (S3) form another group of silicones that are suitable. Corresponding dimethicone copolyols are commercially available and are sold, for example, by Dow Corning under the name Dow Corning® 5330 Fluid.
Selbstverständlich umfasst die erfindungsgemäße Lehre auch, dass die Dimethiconole, Dimethicone und/oder Dimethiconcopolymere bereits als Emulsion vorliegen können. Dabei kann die entsprechende Emulsion der Dimethiconole, Dimethicone und/oder Dimethiconcopolyole sowohl nach der Herstellung der entsprechenden Dimethiconole, Dimethicone und/oder Dimethiconcopolyole aus diesen und den dem Fachmann bekannten üblichen Verfahren zur Emulgierung hergestellt werden. Hierzu können als Hilfsmittel zur Herstellung der entsprechenden Emulsionen sowohl kationische, anionische, nichtionische oder zwitterionische Tenside und Emulgatoren als Hilfsstoffe verwendet werden. Selbstverständlich können die Emulsionen der Dimethiconole, Dimethicone und/oder Dimethiconcopolyole auch direkt durch ein Emulsionspoly- merisationsverfahren hergestellt werden. Auch derartige Verfahren sind dem Fachmann wohl bekannt. Of course, the teaching according to the invention also encompasses the fact that the dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolymers can already be present as an emulsion. In this case, the corresponding emulsion of dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols from these and the conventional methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art. For this purpose, both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions. Of course, the emulsions of dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art.
Wenn die Dimethiconole, Dimethicone und/oder Dimethiconcopolyole als Emulsion verwendet werden, dann beträgt die Tröpfchengröße der emulgierten Teilchen erfindungsgemäß 0,01 bis 10000 μιτι, bevorzugt 0,01 bis 100 μιτι, besonders bevorzugt 0,01 bis 20 μιτι und ganz besonders bevorzugt 0,01 bis 10 μιτι. Die Teilchengröße wird dabei nach der Methode der Lichtstreuung bestimmt.  If the dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols are used as emulsion, then the droplet size of the emulsified particles according to the invention 0.01 to 10000 μιτι, preferably 0.01 to 100 μιτι, more preferably 0.01 to 20 μιτι and most preferably 0 , 01 to 10 μιτι. The particle size is determined by the method of light scattering.
Werden verzweigte Dimethiconole, Dimethicone und/oder Dimethiconcopolyole verwendet, so ist darunter zu verstehen, dass die Verzweigung größer ist, als eine zufällige Verzweigung, welche durch Verunreinigungen der jeweiligen Monomere zufällig entsteht. Im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung ist daher unter verzweigten Dimethiconolen, Dimethiconen und/oder Dimethiconcopolyolen zu verstehen, dass der Verzweigungsgrad größer als 0,01 % ist. Bevorzugt ist ein Verzweigungsgrad größer als 0,1 % und ganz besonders bevorzugt von größer als 0,5 %. Der Grad der Verzweigung wird dabei aus dem Verhältnis der unverzweigten Monomeren zu den verzweigenden Monomeren, das heißt der Menge an tri- und tetrafunktionalen Siloxanen, bestimmt. Erfindungsgemäß können sowohl niedrigverzweigte als auch hochverzweigte Dimethiconole, Dimethicone und/oder Dimethiconcopolyole ganz besonders bevorzugt sein. If branched dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols are used, it is to be understood that the branching is greater than a random branching, which occurs randomly due to impurities of the respective monomers. For the purposes of the present invention, branched dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols are therefore to be understood as meaning that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%. Prefers is a degree of branching greater than 0.1%, and most preferably greater than 0.5%. The degree of branching is determined from the ratio of the unbranched monomers to the branching monomers, that is, the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention, both low-branched and highly branched dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols can be very particularly preferred.
Besonders geeignete Silikone sind aminofunktionelle Silikone, insbesondere die Silikone, die unter der INCI-Bezeichnung Amodimethicone zusammengefasst sind. Daher ist es erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt, wenn die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel zusätzlich mindestens ein aminofunktionelles Silikon enthalten. Darunter sind Silikone zu verstehen, welche mindestens eine, gegebenenfalls substituierte, Aminogruppe aufweisen. Diese Silikone werden nach der INCI-Deklaration als Amodimethicone bezeichnet und sind beispielsweise in Form einer Emulsion als Handelsprodukt Dow Corning® 939 oder als Handelsprodukt Dow Corning® 949 im Gemisch mit einem kationischen und eine nichtionischen Tensid erhältlich. Particularly suitable silicones are amino-functional silicones, in particular the silicones, which are summarized under the INCI name Amodimethicone. Therefore, it is preferred according to the invention if the agents according to the invention additionally contain at least one amino-functional silicone. These are silicones which have at least one, optionally substituted, amino group. These silicones are referred to as amodimethicone according to the INCI nomenclature and are available for example in the form of an emulsion as a commercial product Dow Corning ® 939 or as a commercial product Dow Corning ® 949 in a mixture with a cationic and a nonionic surfactant.
Vorzugsweise werden solche aminofunktionellen Silikone eingesetzt, die eine Aminzahl oberhalb von 0,25 meq/g, vorzugsweise oberhalb von 0,3 meq/g und insbesondere bevorzugt oberhalb von 0,4 meq/g aufweisen. Die Aminzahl steht dabei für die Milli-Äquivalente Amin pro Gramm des aminofunktionellen Silikons. Sie kann durch Titration ermittelt und auch in der Einheit mg KOH/g angegeben werden.  Preferably, those amino-functional silicones are used which have an amine number above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and especially preferably above 0.4 meq / g. The amine number stands for the milliequivalents of amine per gram of the amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and also expressed in mg KOH / g.
Die Mittel enthalten die Silikone bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,01 Gew.-% bis 15 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt von 0,05 bis 2 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel. The agents contain the silicones preferably in amounts of from 0.01% by weight to 15% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight, based on the total agent.
Als Pflegestoff einer anderen Verbindungsklasse kann das Mittel beispielsweise mindestens ein Proteinhydrolysat und/oder eines seiner Derivate enthalten. As a care substance of another class of compounds, the agent may contain, for example, at least one protein hydrolyzate and / or one of its derivatives.
Proteinhydrolysate sind Produktgemische, die durch sauer, basisch oder enzymatisch katalysierten Abbau von Proteinen (Eiweißen) erhalten werden. Unter dem Begriff Proteinhydrolysate werden erfindungsgemäß auch Totalhydrolysate sowie einzelne Aminosäuren und deren Derivate sowie Gemische aus verschiedenen Aminosäuren verstanden. Das Molgewicht der erfindungsgemäß einsetzbaren Proteinhydrolysate liegt zwischen 75, dem Molgewicht für Glycin, und 200.000, bevorzugt beträgt das Molgewicht 75 bis 50.000 und ganz besonders bevorzugt 75 bis 20.000 Dalton. Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins). According to the invention, the term protein hydrolyzates also means total hydrolyzates as well as individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids. The molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.
Erfindungsgemäß können Proteinhydrolysate sowohl pflanzlichen als auch tierischen oder marinen oder synthetischen Ursprungs eingesetzt werden. According to the invention, protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used.
Tierische Proteinhydrolysate sind beispielsweise Elastin-, Kollagen-, Keratin-, Seiden- und Milchei- weiß-Proteinhydrolysate, die auch in Form von Salzen vorliegen können. Solche Produkte werden beispielsweise unter den Warenzeichen Dehylan® (Cognis), Promois® (Interorgana), Collapuron® (Cognis), Nutrilan® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol® (Deutsche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein® (Inolex), Sericin (Pentapharm) und Kerasol® (Croda) vertrieben. Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ® (Cognis), Promois ® (Interorgana) Collapuron ® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ® (Inolex), sericin (Pentapharm) and kerasol tm ® (Croda) sold.
Die Proteinhydrolysate sind in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln beispielsweise in Konzentrationen von 0,01 Gew.-% bis zu 20 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise von 0,05 Gew.-% bis zu 15 Gew.-% und ganz besonders bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05 Gew.-% bis zu 5 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf die gesamte Anwendungszubereitung enthalten. The protein hydrolysates are present in the agents according to the invention, for example, in concentrations of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0 , 05 wt .-% up to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total application preparation included.
Als Pflegestoff kann das erfindungsgemäße Mittel weiterhin mindestens ein Vitamin, ein Provitamin, eine Vitaminvorstufe und/oder eines derer Derivate enthalten. As a care substance, the agent according to the invention may further comprise at least one vitamin, a provitamin, a vitamin precursor and / or one of their derivatives.
Dabei sind erfindungsgemäß solche Vitamine, Provitamine und Vitaminvorstufen bevorzugt, die üblicherweise den Gruppen A, B, C, E, F und H zugeordnet werden. According to the invention, such vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H.
Zur Gruppe der als Vitamin A bezeichneten Substanzen gehören das Retinol (Vitamin A-i) sowie das 3,4-Didehydroretinol (Vitamin A2). Das ß-Carotin ist das Provitamin des Retinols. Als Vitamin A-Komponente kommen erfindungsgemäß beispielsweise Vitamin A-Säure und deren Ester, Vitamin A-Aldehyd und Vitamin A-Alkohol sowie dessen Ester wie das Palmitat und das Acetat in Betracht. Die Mittel enthalten die Vitamin A-Komponente bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05-1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Anwendungszubereitung. The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin Ai) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ). The ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The agents preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total application preparation.
Zur Vitamin B-Gruppe oder zu dem Vitamin B-Komplex gehören u. a. Vitamin B-ι (Thiamin), Vitamin B2 (Riboflavin), Vitamin B3 (Nicotinsäure und/oder Nicotinsäureamid (Niacinamid)), Vitamin B5 (Pantothensäure, Panthenol und Pantolacton), Vitamin B6 (Pyridoxin sowie Pyridoxamin und Pyridoxal), Vitamin C (Ascorbinsäure), Vitamin E (Tocopherole, insbesondere a-Tocopherol), Vitamin F (Linolsäure und/oder Linolensäure), Vitamin H. The vitamin B group or to the vitamin B complex include vitamin B-ι (thiamine), vitamin B 2 (riboflavin), vitamin B 3 (nicotinic acid and / or nicotinamide (niacinamide)), vitamin B 5 (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone), vitamin B 6 (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin E (tocopherols, in particular a-tocopherol), vitamin F (linoleic acid and / or linolenic acid), vitamin H.
Bevorzugt enthalten die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel Vitamine, Provitamine und Vitaminvorstufen aus den Gruppen A, B, C, E und H. Panthenol, Pantolacton, Pyridoxin und seine Derivate sowie Nicotinsäureamid und Biotin sind besonders bevorzugt. The agents according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, C, E and H. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinamide and biotin are particularly preferred.
Ganz besonders bevorzugt wird als Pflegestoff D-Panthenol, gegebenenfalls in Kombination mit mindestens einem der oben genannten Silikonderivate eingesetzt.  Very particular preference is given to using D-panthenol as care substance, if appropriate in combination with at least one of the abovementioned silicone derivatives.
Wie auch der Zusatz von Glycerin und/oder Propylenglykol erhöht der Zusatz von Panthenol die Flexibilität des bei Anwendung des erfindungsgemäßen Mittels gebildeten Polymerfilms. Wird also ein besonders flexibler Halt gewünscht, können die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel statt oder zusätzlich zu Glycerin und/oder Propylenglykol Panthenol enthalten. In einer bevorzugten Ausführungsform enthalten die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel Panthenol, vorzugsweise in einer Menge von 0,05 bis 10 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,1 - 5 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel. Als Pflegestoff können die erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Mittel weiterhin mindestens einen Pflanzenextrakt enthalten. As with the addition of glycerin and / or propylene glycol, the addition of panthenol increases the flexibility of the polymer film formed using the composition of the present invention. If, therefore, a particularly flexible hold is desired, the compositions according to the invention may contain panthenol instead of or in addition to glycerol and / or propylene glycol. In a preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention contain panthenol, preferably in an amount of 0.05 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total agent. As a conditioner, the compositions used according to the invention may further contain at least one plant extract.
Üblicherweise werden diese Extrakte durch Extraktion der gesamten Pflanze hergestellt. Es kann aber in einzelnen Fällen auch bevorzugt sein, die Extrakte ausschließlich aus Blüten und/oder Blättern der Pflanze herzustellen.  Usually these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.
Erfindungsgemäß sind vor allem die Extrakte aus Grünem Tee, Eichenrinde, Brennnessel, Hamamelis, Hopfen, Henna, Kamille, Klettenwurzel, Schachtelhalm, Weißdorn, Lindenblüten, Mandel, Aloe Vera, Fichtennadel, Rosskastanie, Sandelholz, Wacholder, Kokosnuss, Mango, Aprikose, Limone, Weizen, Kiwi, Melone, Orange, Grapefruit, Salbei, Rosmarin, Birke, Malve, Wiesenschaumkraut, Quendel, Schafgarbe, Thymian, Melisse, Hauhechel, Huflattich, Eibisch, Meristem, Ginseng und Ingwerwurzel bevorzugt.  The extracts of green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime , Wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.
Weiterhin kann es bevorzugt sein, in den erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Mitteln Mischungen aus mehreren, insbesondere aus zwei, verschiedenen Pflanzenextrakten einzusetzen. Furthermore, it may be preferable to use mixtures of several, in particular two, different plant extracts in the compositions used according to the invention.
Auch Mono- bzw. Oligosaccharide können als Pflegestoff in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln eingesetzt werden. Mono- or oligosaccharides can also be used as a care substance in the compositions according to the invention.
Es können sowohl Monosaccharide als auch Oligosaccharide, wie beispielsweise Rohrzucker, Milchzucker und Raffinose, eingesetzt werden. Die Verwendung von Monosacchariden ist erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt. Unter den Monosacchariden sind wiederum solche Verbindungen bevorzugt, die 5 oder 6 Kohlenstoffatome enthalten.  Both monosaccharides and oligosaccharides, such as cane sugar, lactose and raffinose, can be used. The use of monosaccharides is preferred according to the invention. Among the monosaccharides, in turn, those compounds which contain 5 or 6 carbon atoms are preferred.
Geeignete Pentosen und Hexosen sind beispielsweise Ribose, Arabinose, Xylose, Lyxose, Allose, Altrose, Glucose, Mannose, Gulose, Idose, Galactose, Talose, Fucose und Fructose. Arabinose, Glucose, Galactose und Fructose sind bevorzugt eingesetzte Kohlenhydrate; Ganz besonders bevorzugt eingesetzt wird Glucose, die sowohl in der D-(+)- oder L-(-)- Konfiguration oder als Racemat geeignet ist. Weiterhin können auch Derivate dieser Pentosen und Hexosen, wie die entsprechenden On- und Uronsäuren (Zuckersäuren), Zuckeralkohole und Glykoside, erfindungsgemäß eingesetzt werden. Bevorzugte Zuckersäuren sind die Gluconsäure, die Glucuronsäure, die Zuckersäure, die Mannozuckersäure und die Schleimsäure. Bevorzugte Zuckeralkohole sind Sorbit, Mannit und Dulcit. Bevorzugte Glykoside sind die Methylglucoside. Da die eingesetzten Mono- bzw. Oligosaccharide üblicherweise aus natürlichen Rohstoffen wie Stärke gewonnen werden, weisen sie in der Regel die diesen Rohstoffen entsprechenden Konfigurationen auf (z.B. D-Glucose, D-Fructose und D-Galactose).  Suitable pentoses and hexoses are, for example, ribose, arabinose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, glucose, mannose, gulose, idose, galactose, talose, fucose and fructose. Arabinose, glucose, galactose and fructose are preferably used carbohydrates; Very particular preference is given to using glucose which is suitable both in the D - (+) or L - (-) configuration or as a racemate. Furthermore, derivatives of these pentoses and hexoses, such as the corresponding on- and uronic acids (sugar acids), sugar alcohols and glycosides, can also be used according to the invention. Preferred sugars are gluconic acid, glucuronic acid, sugar acid, mannose and mucic acid. Preferred sugar alcohols are sorbitol, mannitol and dulcitol. Preferred glycosides are the methylglucosides. Since the monosaccharides or oligosaccharides used are usually obtained from natural raw materials such as starch, they usually have the configurations corresponding to these raw materials (for example D-glucose, D-fructose and D-galactose).
Die Mono- bzw. Oligosaccharide sind in den erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Mitteln bevorzugt in einer Menge von 0, 1 bis 8 Gew.-%, insbesondere bevorzugt 1 bis 5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Anwendungszubereitung, enthalten.  The monosaccharides or oligosaccharides are contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total application preparation.
Das Mittel kann weiterhin mindestens ein Lipid als Pflegestoff enthalten. The agent may further contain at least one lipid as a care substance.
Erfindungsgemäß geeignete Lipide sind Phospholipide, beispielsweise Sojalecithin, Ei-Lecithin und Kephaline sowie die unter den INCI-Bezeichnungen Linoleamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate, Cocamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate und Stearamidopropyl PG- Dimonium Chloride Phosphate bekannten Substanzen. Diese werden beispielsweise von der Firma Mona unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Phospholipid EFA®, Phospholipid PTC® sowie Phospholipid SV® vertrieben. Die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel enthalten die Lipide bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,01 bis 10 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,1 bis 5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Anwendungszubereitung. Lipids which are suitable according to the invention are phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, and those mentioned under the INCI names linoleic amidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride Phosphates, cocamidopropyl PG-dimonium chlorides phosphates and stearamidopropyl PG-dimonium chlorides phosphates known substances. These are sold, for example, by the company Mona under the trade names Phospholipid EFA® , Phospholipid PTC® and Phospholipid SV® . The agents according to the invention preferably contain the lipids in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the total application preparation.
Es ist erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt - insbesondere wenn das erfindungsgemäße Mittel als Creme formuliert ist - dass das erfindungsgemäße kosmetische Mittel zusätzlich mindestens eine Ölphase enthält. It is inventively preferred - especially when the agent according to the invention is formulated as a cream - that the cosmetic agent according to the invention additionally contains at least one oil phase.
Unter einer Ölphase versteht sich erfindungsgemäß eine bei 20°C flüssige Phase, die sich bei 20°C zu weniger als 1 g in 100 g Wasser löst. According to the invention, an oil phase is understood as meaning a phase which is liquid at 20 ° C. and dissolves at 20 ° C. to less than 1 g in 100 g of water.
Die Ölphase besitzt bevorzugt eine Viskosität bis zu 1000 mPas, (Brookfield, RVDV II+, 20°C, 20 Umdrehungen pro Minute, Spindel Nr. 1 ). The oil phase preferably has a viscosity of up to 1000 mPas, (Brookfield, RVDV II +, 20 ° C., 20 revolutions per minute, spindle no. 1).
In einer bevorzugten Ausführungsform wird das Öl der Ölphase ausgewählt aus mindestens einem Öl der Gruppe, die gebildet wird aus In a preferred embodiment, the oil of the oil phase is selected from at least one oil of the group that is formed
pflanzliche Öle, vegetable oils,
tierische Öle, animal oils,
Esterölen,  Esterölen,
flüssige Fettsäuren und/oder deren Mono,- Di- und Trifettsäureester von gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten linearen und/oder verzweigten C6- bis C22-Fettsäuren mit Glycerin. Liquid fatty acids and / or their mono, - di- and trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched C 6 - to C 2 2 fatty acids with glycerol.
Bevorzugte pflanzliche Öle werden ausgewählt aus mindestens einem Vertreter der Gruppe, die gebildet wird aus Amaranthöl, Sonnenblumenöl, Olivenöl, Sojaöl, Rapsöl, Ricinusöl, Sesamöl, Mandelöl, Jojobaöl, Orangenöl, Aprikosenkernöl, Macadamianussöl, Weizenkeimöl, Pfirsichkernöl und die flüssigen Anteile des Kokosöls. Preferred vegetable oils are selected from at least one member of the group formed from amaranth oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, castor oil, sesame oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, apricot kernel oil, macadamia nut oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil.
Bevorzugte Esteröle werden ausgewählt aus Estern von C6 - C30 - Fettsäuren mit C2 - C30 - Fettalkoholen. Bevorzugt sind die Monoester der Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen mit 2 bis 24 C-Atomen. Beispiele für eingesetzte Fettsäurenanteile in den Estern sind Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2-Ethyl- hexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmitoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Li- nolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen, die z.B. bei der Druckspaltung von natürlichen Fetten und Ölen, bei der Oxidation von Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese oder der Dimerisierung von ungesättigten Fettsäuren anfallen. Beispiele für die Fettalkoholanteile in den Esterölen sind Isopropylalkohol, Capronalkohol, Caprylalkohol, 2-Ethylhexylalkohol, Caprinalkohol, Laurylalkohol, Isotridecylalkohol, Myristylalkohol, Cetylalkohol, Palmoleylalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Isostearylalkohol, Oleylalkohol, Elaidylalkohol, Petroselinylalkohol, Linolylalkohol, Linolenylalkohol, Elaeostearylalkohol, Arachylalkohol, Gadoleylalkohol, Behenylalkohol, Erucylalkohol und Brassi- dylalkohol sowie deren technische Mischungen, die z.B. bei der Hochdruckhydrierung von technischen Methylestern auf Basis von Fetten und Ölen oder Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese sowie als Monomerfraktion bei der Dimerisierung von ungesättigten Fettalkoholen anfallen. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt sind Isopropylmyristat (Rilanit® IPM), lsononansäure-C16-18-alkylester (Cetiol® SN), 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat (Cegesoft® 24), Stearinsäure- 2-ethylhexylester (Cetiol® 868), Cetyloleat, Glycerintricaprylat, Kokosfettalkohol-caprinat/-caprylat (Cetiol® LC), n-Butylstearat, Oleylerucat (Cetiol® J 600), Isopropylpalmitat (Rilanit® IPP), Oleyl Oleate (Cetiol®), Laurinsäurehexylester (Cetiol® A), Di-n-butyladipat (Cetiol® B), Myristylmyristat (Cetiol® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol® SN), Ölsäuredecylester (Cetiol® V). Preferred ester oils are selected from esters of C 6 -C 30 fatty acids with C 2 -C 30 fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, Gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, for example in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis or the Dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids incurred. Examples of fatty alcohol moieties in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and Brassidylalkohol and their technical mixtures, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols incurred. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ® 24) stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ® MM), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol ® SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol ® V).
Bevorzugt als Öl in der Ölphase verwendbare Mono,- Di- und Trifettsäureester von gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten linearen und/oder verzweigten Fettsäuren mit Glycerin sind die insbesondere Triglyceridester aus Caprinsäure und Caprylsäure (INCI-Bezeichnung: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) beispielsweise erhältlich als Handelsprodukt der Firma Cognis unter der Bezeichnung Myritol® 312. Mono, di- and triflic acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol which are preferably usable as oil in the oil phase are in particular the triglyceride esters of capric acid and caprylic acid (INCI name: Caprylic / Capric triglycerides), for example obtainable as a commercial product Cognis under the name myritol ® 312th
Die zusätzliche Ölphase ist bevorzugt in dem erfindungsgemäßen Mittel in einer Menge von 0,05 Gew.-% bis 25 Gew.-%, insbesondere von 0,1 Gew.-% bis 20 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gewicht des kosmetischen Mittels, enthalten. The additional oil phase is preferably in the composition according to the invention in an amount of 0.05 wt .-% to 25 wt .-%, in particular from 0.1 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the cosmetic By means of, included.
Weiterhin eignen sich erfindungsgemäße Mittel, die zusätzlich mindestens einen Fettstoff enthalten. Also suitable are agents according to the invention which additionally contain at least one fatty substance.
Unter einem Fettstoff werden erfindungsgemäß solche Verbindungen verstanden, die bei 20°C zu weniger als 1 g in 100 g Wasser löslich sind. According to the invention, a fatty substance is understood as meaning those compounds which are soluble at less than 1 g at 20 ° C. in 100 g of water.
Bevorzugt wird der Fettstoff ausgewählt aus mindestens einem Fettstoff der Gruppe, die gebildet wird aus Candelillawachs, Sheabutter, Carnaubawachs, Bienenwachs, Kokosfett, C12 bis C2o- Fettsäuren (insbesondere Palmitinsäure, Stearinsäure) The fatty substance is preferably selected from at least one fatty substance which is formed the group of candelilla wax, shea butter, carnauba wax, beeswax, coconut oil, C 12 to C 2 o-fatty acids (particularly stearic acid)
Der zusätzliche Fettstoff ist bevorzugt in dem erfindungsgemäßen Mittel in einer Menge von 0,05 Gew.-% bis 35 Gew.-%, insbesondere von 1 Gew.-% bis 20 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gewicht des kosmetischen Mittels, enthalten. Falls die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel in Form einer Creme oder eines Gels vorliegen, ist es erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt, zusätzlich mindestens ein polymeres Verdickungsmittel zuzusetzen. Dieses Verdickungsmittel ist von den besagten mit Propylenoxid modifizierten Stärken verschieden. Sie können beispielsweise ausgewählt werden unter den unter folgenden INCI- Bezeichnungen bekannten polymeren Verdickungsmitteln: Acrylamides Copolymer, Acrylamide/Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Acrylates/Acetoacetoxyethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Acrylates/Ceteth-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates/Ceteth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Laureth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Palmeth-25 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates/Steareth-50 Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Steareth-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates/Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Stearyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Acrylic Acid/Acrylonitrogens Copolymer, Agar, Agarose, Alcaligenes Polysaccharides, Algin, Alginic Acid, Ammonium Acrylates/Acrylonitrogens Copolymer, Ammonium Acrylates Copolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vinyl Formamide Copolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Ammonium Alginate, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Amylopectin, Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate, Astragalus Gummifer Gum, Attapulgite, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Flour, Bentonite, Butoxy Chitosan, Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum, Calcium Alginate, Calcium Carboxymethyl Cellulose, Calcium Carrageenan, Calcium Potassium Carbomer, Calcium Starch Octenylsuccinate, C20-40 Alkyl Stearate, Carbomer, Carboxybutyl Chitosan, Carboxymethyl Chitin, Carboxymethyl Chitosan, Carboxymethyl Dextran, Carboxymethyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Carboxymethyl Hydroxypropyl Guar, Cellulose Acetate Propionate Carboxylate, Cellulose Gum, Ceratonia Siliqua Gum, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Cholesterol/HDI/Pullulan Copolymer, Cholesteryl Hexyl Dicarbamate Pullulan, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum, Diglycol/CHDM/lsophthalates/SIP Copolymer, Dihydrogenated Tallow Benzylmonium Hectorite, Dimethicone Crosspolymer-2, Dimethicone Propyl PG-Betaine, DMAPA Acrylates/Acrylic Acid/Acrylonitrogens Copolymer, Ethylene/Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Gelatin, Gellan Gum, Glyceryl Alginate, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Flour, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Hectorite, Hydrated Silica, Hydrogenated Potato Starch, Hydroxybutyl Methylcellulose, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Hydroxyethyl Chitosan, Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose, Hydroxypropylcellulose, Hydroxypropyl Chitosan, Hydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine Carbomer, Hydroxypropyl Guar, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose Stearoxy Ether, Hydroxystearamide MEA, Isobutylene/Sodium Maleate Copolymer, Lithium Magnesium Silicate, Lithium Magnesium Sodium Silicate, Macrocystis Pyrifera (Kelp), Magnesium Alginate, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Magnesium Silicate, Magnesium Trisilicate, Methoxy PEG- 22/Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Methylcellulose, Methyl Ethylcellulose, Methyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Montmorillonite, Moroccan Lava Clay, Natto Gum, Nonoxynyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Octadecene/MA Copolymer, Pectin, PEG-800, PEG- Crosspolymer, PEG-150/Decyl Alcohol/SMDI Copolymer, PEG-175 Diisostearate, PEG-190 Distearate, PEG-15 Glyceryl Tristearate, PEG-140 Glyceryl Tristearate, PEG-240/HDI Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether, PEG-100/IPDI Copolymer, PEG-180/Laureth-50/TMMG Copolymer, PEG-10/Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-15/Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-2M, PEG-5M, PEG-7M, PEG-9M, PEG-14M, PEG-20M, PEG-23M, PEG-25M, PEG-45M, PEG-65M, PEG-90M, PEG-1 15M, PEG-160M, PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Trioleate, PEG-180/Octoxynol- 40 TMMG Copolymer, PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate, PEG-4 Rapeseedamide, PEG- 150/Stearyl Alcohol/SMDI Copolymer, Polyacrylate-3, Polyacrylic Acid, Polycyclopentadiene, Polyether-1 , Polyethylene/Isopropyl Maleate/MA Copolyol, Polymethacrylic Acid, Polyquaternium- 52, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Potassium Alginate, Potassium Aluminum Polyacrylate, Potassium Carbomer, Potassium Carrageenan, Potassium Polyacrylate, Potato Starch Modified, PPG-14 Laureth-60 Hexyl Dicarbamate, PPG-14 Laureth-60 Isophoryl Dicarbamate, PPG-14 Palmeth-60 Hexyl Dicarbamate, Propylene Glycol Alginate, PVP/Decene Copolymer, PVP Montmorillonite, Rhizobian Gum, Ricinoleic Acid/Adipic Acid/AEEA Copolymer, Sclerotium Gum, Sodium Acrylate/Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates/Acrolein Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates/Acrylonitrogens Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates/Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Sodium Acrylate/Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer, Sodium Carbomer, Sodium Carboxymethyl Chitin, Sodium Carboxymethyl Dextran, Sodium Carboxymethyl Beta- Glucan, Sodium Carboxymethyl Starch, Sodium Carrageenan, Sodium Cellulose Sulfate, Sodium Cyclodextrin Sulfate, Sodium Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Sodium Isooctylene/MA Copolymer, Sodium Magnesium Fluorosilicate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Sodium Polymethacrylate, Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate, Sodium Silicoaluminate, Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate, Sodium Stearoxy PG- Hydroxyethylcellulose Sulfonate, Sodium Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer, Sodium Tauride Acrylates/Acrylic Acid/Acrylonitrogens Copolymer, Solanum Tuberosum (Potato) Starch, Starch/Acrylates/Acrylamide Copolymer, Starch Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Steareth-60 Cetyl Ether, Steareth-100/PEG-136/HDI Copolymer, Sterculia Urens Gum, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum, Tapioca Starch, TEA-Alginate, TEA-Carbomer, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Starch, Tromethamine Acrylates/Acrylonitrogens Copolymer, Tromethamine Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Welan Gum, Yeast Beta-Glucan, Yeast Polysaccharides, Zea Mays (Com) Starch. The additional fatty substance is preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from 0.05% by weight to 35% by weight, in particular from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the cosmetic composition. contain. If the agents according to the invention are in the form of a cream or a gel, it is preferred according to the invention to additionally add at least one polymeric thickener. This thickener is different from the said propylene oxide modified starches. They can be selected, for example, from the polymeric thickeners known under the following INCI names: acrylamide copolymer, acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer, acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, acrylates / acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / beheneth-25-methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / C10. 30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Acrylates / Ceteth-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Ceteth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Laureth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-50 Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Stearyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Acrylic Acid / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Agar, Agarose, Alcaligenes Polysaccharides, Algin, Alginic Acid, Ammonium Acrylates / Acrylonitrogens Copolymer, Ammonium Acrylates Copolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Vinyl Formamide Copolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer, Ammonium Alginate, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Amylopectin, Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate, Astragalus Gummifer Gum, Attapulgite, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Flour, Bentonite, Butoxy Chitosan, Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum, Calcium Alginates, Calcium Carboxymethyl Cellulose, Calcium Carrageenan, Calcium Potassium Carbomer, Calcium Starch Octenylsuccinate, C20-40 Alkyl Stearate, Carbomer, Carboxybutyl Chitosan, Carboxymethyl Chitin, Carboxymethyl Chitosan, Carboxymethyl Dextran, Carboxymethyl Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Carboxymethyl Hydroxypropyl Guar, Cellulose Acetate Propionate Carboxylate, Cellulose Gum, Ceratonia Siliqua Gum, Cetyl Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Cholesterol / HDI / Pullulan Copolymer, Cholesteryl Hexyl Dicarbamate Pullulan, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum, Diglycol / CHDM / Isophthalates / SIP Copolymer, Dihydrogenated Tallow Benzylmonium Hectorite, Dimethicone Crosspolymer -2, Dimethicone Propyl PG-Betaine, DMAPA Acrylates / Acrylic Acid / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Ethylene / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Gelatin, Gellan Gum, Glyceryl Alginate, Glycine Soybean (Soybean) Flour, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Hectorite, Hydrated Silica, Hydrogenated Potato Starch, Hydroxybutyl Methylcellulose, Hydroxyethyl Acrylates / Sodium Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Hydroxyethyl Chitosan, Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose, Hydroxypropylcellulose, Hydroxypropyl Chitosan, Hydroxypropyl Ethylene Diamines Carbomer, Hydroxypropyl Guar, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose Stearoxy Ether, Hydroxystearamide MEA, Isobutylene / Sodium Maleate Copolymer, Lithium Magnesium Silicate, Lithium Magnesium Sodium Silicate, Macrocystis Pyrifera (Kelp), Magnesium Alginate, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Magnesium Silicate, Magnesium Trisilicate, Methoxy PEG-22 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Methyl Cellulose, Methyl Ethyl Cellulose, Methyl Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Montmorillonite, Moroccan Lava Clay, Natto Gum, Nonoxynyl Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Octadecenes / MA Copolymer, Pectin, PEG-800, PEG Crosspolymer, PEG-150 / Decyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer, PEG-175 Diisostearate, PEG-190 Distearates, PEG-15 glyceryl tristearate, PEG-140 glyceryl tristearate, PEG-240 / HDI copolymer bis-decyltetradeceth-20 ether, PEG-100 / IPDI copolymer, PEG-180 / Laureth-50 / TMMG copolymer, PEG-10 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-15 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-2M, PEG-5M, PEG-7M, PEG-9M, PEG-14M, PEG-20M, PEG-23M, PEG-25M, PEG-45M, PEG-65M , PEG-90M, PEG-1 15M, PEG-160M, PEG-120 methyl glucose trioleates, PEG-180 / octoxynol-40 TMMG copolymer, PEG-150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearates, PEG-4 rapeseedamides, PEG-150 / stearyl alcohol / SMDI Copolymer, Polyacrylates-3, Polyacrylic Acid, Polycyclopentadienes, Polyether-1, Polyethylenes / Isopropyl Maleate / MA Copolyol, Polymethacrylic Acid, Polyquaternium-52, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Potassium Al PPG-14 Laureth-60 Hexyl Dicarbamate, PPG-14 Laureth-60 Isophoryl Dicarbamate, PPG-14 Palmeth-60 Hexyl Dicarbamate, Propylene Glycol Alginate, PVP / Decene Copolymer, PVP Montmorillonite, Rhizobian Gum, Ricinoleic Acid / Adipic Acid / AEEA Copolymer, Sclerotium Gum, Sodium Acrylate / Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates / Acrolein Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates / Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Sodium Acrylate / Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer, Sodium Carbomer, Sodium Carboxymethyl Chitin, Sodium Carboxymethyl Dextran, Sodium Carboxymethyl Beta Glucan, Sodium Carboxymethyl Starch, Sodium Carrageenan, Sodium Cellulose Sulfates, Sodium Cyclodextrin Sulfate, Sodium Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Sodium Isooctylene / MA Copolymer, Sodium Magnesium Fluorosilicates, Sodium Polyacrylates, Sodium Polyacry Late Starch, Sodium Polyacryloyl Dimethyl Taurate, Sodium Polymethacrylate, Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate, Sodium Silicoaluminate, Sodium Starch Octenyl Succinate, Sodium Stearoxy PG Hydroxyethyl Cellulose Sulfonate, Sodium Styrene / Acrylate Copolymer, Sodium Tauride Acrylate / Acrylic Acid / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Solanum Tuberosum (Potato) Starch , Starch / Acrylates / Acrylamide Copolymer, Starch Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Steareth-60 Cetyl Ether, Steareth-100 / PEG-136 / HDI Copolymer, Sterculia Urens Gum, Synthetic Fluorophlogopite, Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum, Tapioca Starch, TEA Alginate, TEA Carbomer, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Starch, Tromethamine Acrylates / Acrylonitrogens Copolymer, Tromethamine Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Welan Gum, Yeast Beta Glucan, Yeast Polysaccharides, Zea Mays (Com) Starch.
Besonders bevorzugt wird der polymere Verdicker ausgewählt unter polymeren, anionischen, amphiphilen Verdickern, besonders bevorzugt unter solchen mit den INCI-Bezeichnungen Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Acrylates/Ceteth-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates/Ceteth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Laureth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Palmeth-20 Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Palmeth-25 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates/Steareth-50 Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Steareth-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates/Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Stearyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Crosspolymer. The polymeric thickener is particularly preferably chosen from polymeric, anionic, amphiphilic thickeners, particularly preferably those having the INCI names Acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, acrylates / ceteth-20 itaconate copolymer, Acrylates / Ceteth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Laureth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Palmeth-20 Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-50 Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Stearyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Crosspolymer.
Die polymeren Verdickungsmittel sind bevorzugt in einer Menge von 0,5 bis 20 Gew.-% insbesondere von 0,5 bis 10 Gew.-% in dem erfindungsgemäßen Mittel in Cremeform oder Gelform enthalten. Dabei handelt es sich erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt um ein transparentes Gel. The polymeric thickeners are preferably present in an amount of from 0.5 to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in the composition according to the invention in cream or gel form. This is preferably a transparent gel according to the invention.
Obwohl jeder der genannten Pflegestoffe für sich alleine bereits ein zufrieden stellendes Resultat ergibt, sind im Rahmen der vorliegenden Erfindung auch alle Ausführungsformen umfasst, in denen das Mittel mehrere Pflegestoffe auch aus verschiedenen Gruppen enthält. Although each of the aforementioned care substances alone already gives a satisfactory result, in the context of the present invention, all embodiments are also included, in which the agent contains a plurality of care substances also from different groups.
Durch Zugabe eines UV-Filters können sowohl die Mittel selbst, als auch die behandelten Fasern vor schädlichen Einflüssen von UV-Strahlung geschützt werden. Vorzugsweise wird daher dem Mittel mindestens ein UV-Filter zugegeben. Die geeigneten UV-Filter unterliegen hinsichtlich ihrer Struktur und ihrer physikalischen Eigenschaften keinen generellen Einschränkungen. Vielmehr eignen sich alle im Kosmetikbereich einsetzbaren UV-Filter, deren Absorptionsmaximum im UVA(315-400 nm)-, im UVB(280-315nm)- oder im UVC(<280 nm)-Bereich liegt. UV-Filter mit einem Absorptionsmaximum im UVB-Bereich, insbesondere im Bereich von etwa 280 bis etwa 300 nm, sind besonders bevorzugt. By adding a UV filter, both the agents themselves and the treated fibers can be protected from the harmful effects of UV radiation. Preferably, therefore, at least one UV filter is added to the agent. The suitable UV filters are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
Die erfindungsgemäß bevorzugten UV-Filter können beispielsweise ausgewählt werden aus substituierten Benzophenonen, p-Aminobenzoesäureestern, Diphenylacrylsäureestern, Zimtsäureestern, Salicylsäureestern, Benzimidazolen und o-Aminobenzoesäureestern.  The UV filters preferred according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.
Beispiele für erfindungsgemäß verwendbare UV-Filter sind 4-Amino-benzoesäure, Ν,Ν,Ν- Trimethyl-4-(2-oxoborn-3-ylidenmethyl)anilin-methylsulfat, 3,3,5-Trimethyl-cyclohexylsalicylat (Homosalate), 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenon, 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure und deren Kalium-, Natrium- und Triethanolaminsalze, 3,3'-(1 ,4-Phenylendimethylen)-bis(7,7-dimethyl- 2-oxo-bicyclo-[2.2.1]hept-1-yl-methan-sulfonsäure) und deren Salze, 1-(4-tert.-Butylphenyl)-3-(4- methoxyphenyl)-propan-1 ,3-dion, a-(2-Oxoborn-3-yliden)-toluol-4-sulfonsäure und deren Salze, ethoxylierte 4-Aminobenzoesäure-ethylester (PEG-25 PABA; Uvinul®P 25), 4-Dimethylamino- benzoesäure-2-ethylhexylester, Salicylsäure-2-ethylhexylester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäure-isopentylester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäure-2-ethylhexyl-ester, 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon-5-sulfonsäure und deren Natriumsalz (Benzophenone-4; Uvinul®MS 40; Uvasorb®S 5), 3-(4'-Methylbenzyliden)-D,L- Campher, 3-Benzyliden-campher (3-Benzylidene camphor), 4-lsopropylbenzylsalicylat, 2,4,6- Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1 '-oxi)-1 ,3,5-triazin, 3-lmidazol-4-yl-acrylsäure und deren Ethylester, Polymere des N-{(2 und 4)-[2-oxoborn-3-ylidenmethyl]benzyl}-acrylamids, 2,4-Dihy- droxybenzophenon, 1 , 1 '-Diphenylacrylonitrilsäure-2-ethylhexyl-ester, o-Aminobenzoesäure- menthylester, 2,2',4,4'-Tetrahydroxybenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenon-5-natriumsulfonat und 2-Cyano-3,3-diphenylacryl- säure-2'-ethylhexylester. Bevorzugt sind 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon-5-sulfonsäure und deren Natriumsalz und/oder ethoxylierte 4-Aminobenzoesäure-ethylester. Examples of UV filters which can be used according to the invention are 4-aminobenzoic acid, Ν, Ν, Ν-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate (homosalates), 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2- oxo-bicyclo- [2.2.1] hept-1-yl-methanesulphonic acid) and its salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, a- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidene) toluene-4-sulfonic acid and salts thereof, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (PEG-25 PABA; Uvinul ® P 25), 4-dimethylamino benzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, -2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt (Benzophenone-4; Uvinul ® MS 40; Uvasorb ® S 5) , 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 3-benzylidene-camphor (3-benzylidene camphor) , 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino (p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxy) -1, 3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, Polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} -acrylamide, 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 1, 1 '-diphenylacrylonitrile acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, o-aminobenzoic acid menthyl ester, 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone-5-sodium sulfonate and 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylic acid 2'-ethylhexyl ester. Preference is given to 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt and / or ethoxylated ethyl 4-aminobenzoate.
Die UV-Filter sind üblicherweise in Mengen von 0,01 -5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Anwendungszubereitung, enthalten. Mengen von 0, 1-2,5 Gew.-% sind bevorzugt. The UV filters are usually contained in amounts of 0.01-5 wt .-%, based on the total application preparation. Amounts of 0, 1-2.5 wt .-% are preferred.
In einer besonderen Ausführungsform enthält das erfindungsgemäß verwendete Mittel weiterhin einen oder mehrere direktziehende Farbstoffe. Dies ermöglicht, dass bei Anwendung des Mittels die behandelte keratinische Faser nicht nur temporär strukturiert, sondern zugleich auch gefärbt wird. Das kann insbesondere dann wünschenswert sein, wenn nur eine temporäre Färbung beispielsweise mit auffälligen Modefarben gewünscht wird, die sich durch einfaches Waschen wieder aus der keratinischen Faser entfernen lässt. In a particular embodiment, the agent used in the invention further contains one or more substantive dyes. This allows the treated keratin fiber not only to be temporarily patterned when the agent is applied, but also dyed at the same time. This may be particularly desirable if only a temporary dyeing is desired, for example, with eye-catching fashion colors, which can be removed again by simple washing from the keratinic fiber.
Direktziehende Farbstoffe sind üblicherweise Nitrophenylendiamine, Nitroaminophenole, Azo- farbstoffe, Anthrachinone oder Indophenole. Bevorzugte direktziehende Farbstoffe sind die unter den internationalen Bezeichnungen bzw. Handelsnamen HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, Acid Yellow 1 , Acid Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, HC Orange 1 , Disperse Orange 3, Acid Orange 7, HC Red 1 , HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 1 1 , HC Red 13, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, HC Red BN, Pigment Red 57: 1 , HC Blue 2, HC Blue 1 1 , HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, HC Violet 1 , Disperse Violet 1 , Disperse Violet 4, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Black 9, Acid Black 1 , und Acid Black 52 bekannten Verbindungen sowie 1 ,4-Diamino-2-nitrobenzol, 2-Amino-4-nitrophenol, 1 ,4-Bis-(ß-hydroxyethyl)- amino-2-nitrobenzol, 3-Nitro-4-(ß-hydroxyethyl)-aminophenol, 2-(2'-Hydroxyethyl)amino-4,6-dinitro- phenol, 1-(2'-Hydroxyethyl)amino-4-methyl-2-nitrobenzol, 1-Amino-4-(2'-hydroxyethyl)-amino-5- chlor-2-nitrobenzol, 4-Amino-3-nitrophenol, 1 -(2'-Ureidoethyl)amino-4-nitrobenzol, 4-Amino-2-nitro- diphenylamin-2'-carbonsäure, 6-Nitro-1 ,2,3,4-tetrahydrochinoxalin, 2-Hydroxy-1 ,4-naphthochinon, Pikraminsäure und deren Salze, 2-Amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-Ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoesäure und 2-Chloro-6-ethylamino-1-hydroxy-4-nitrobenzol. Bevorzugt werden kationische direktziehende Farbstoffe eingesetzt. Besonders bevorzugt sind dabei Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols. Preferred substantive dyes are those having the international designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, HC Orange 1, HC Red 1, HC Red 1, HC Red 13, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, HC Red BN, Pigment Red 57: 1, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 1, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Black 9, Acid Black 1, and Acid Black 52 known compounds and 1, 4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1, 4-bis (ß-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- (ß- hydroxyethyl) aminophenol, 2- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-4-methyl-2-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-4- (2 ' -hydroxyethyl) amino-5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 1- (2'-ureidoethyl) amino-4-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-2-nitrobenzene diphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, picramic acid and its salts, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4- Ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-1-hydroxy-4-nitrobenzene. Preference is given to using cationic substantive dyes. Particularly preferred are
(a) kationische Triphenylmethanfarbstoffe, wie beispielsweise Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 und Basic Violet 14,  (a) cationic triphenylmethane dyes such as Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14,
(b) aromatischen Systeme, die mit einer quaternären Stickstoffgruppe substituiert sind, wie beispielsweise Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 und Basic Brown 17, sowie  (b) aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group, such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, as well as
(c) direktziehende Farbstoffe, die einen Heterocyclus enthalten, der mindestens ein quaternäres Stickstoffatom aufweist, wie sie beispielsweise in der EP-A2-998 908, auf die an dieser Stelle explizit Bezug genommen wird, in den Ansprüchen 6 bis 1 1 genannt werden.  (C) substantive dyes containing a heterocycle having at least one quaternary nitrogen atom, as mentioned for example in EP-A2-998 908, to which reference is explicitly made at this point in claims 6 to 1 1 are called.
Die Farbstoffe, die auch unter den Bezeichnungen Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 und Basic Red 51 bekannt sind, sind ganz besonders bevorzugte kationische direktziehende Farbstoffe der Gruppe (c). Die kationischen direktziehenden Farbstoffe, die unter dem Warenzeichen Arianor vertrieben werden, sind erfindungsgemäß ebenfalls ganz besonders bevorzugte kationische direktziehende Farbstoffe. The dyes, which are also known by the names Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51, are very particularly preferred cationic substantive dyes of the Group (c). The cationic substantive dyes sold under the trademark Arianor are also very particularly preferred cationic substantive dyes according to the invention.
Die erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Mittel gemäß dieser Ausführungsform enthalten die direktziehenden Farbstoffe bevorzugt in einer Menge von 0,001 bis 20 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel.  The agents used according to the invention according to this embodiment preferably contain the substantive dyes in an amount of 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, based on the total agent.
Es ist erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt, dass die erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Mittel frei von Oxidationsfarbstoffvorprodukten sind. Oxidationsfarbstoffvorprodukte werden eingeteilt in sogenannte Entwicklerkomponenten und Kupplerkomponenten. Die Entwicklerkomponenten bilden unter dem Einfluß von Oxidationsmitteln oder von Luftsauerstoff untereinander oder unter Kupplung mit einer oder mehreren Kupplerkomponenten die eigentlichen Farbstoffe aus. It is preferred according to the invention that the agents used according to the invention are free of oxidation dye precursors. Oxidation dye precursors are classified into so-called developer components and coupler components. The developer components form the actual dyes under the influence of oxidizing agents or of atmospheric oxygen with one another or with coupling with one or more coupler components.
Sind die werden die erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Mittel als Pumpspray, Aerosolspray, vorzugsweise aber als Pumpschaum oder Aerosolschaum. These are the agents used according to the invention as a pump spray, aerosol spray, but preferably as a pump foam or aerosol foam.
Hierzu werden die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel in einer Abgabevorrichtung konfektioniert, die entweder ein zusätzlich mit einem Treibmittel befüllter Druckgasbehälter („Aerosolbehälter") oder ein Nichtaerosolbehälter darstellt. For this purpose, the agents according to the invention are packaged in a dispensing device, which is either an additionally filled with a propellant compressed gas container ("aerosol container") or a non-aerosol container.
Die Druckgasbehälter, mit deren Hilfe ein Produkt durch den inneren Gasdruck des Behälters über ein Ventil verteilt wird, bezeichnet man definitionsgemäß als "Aerosolbehälter". Als "Nichtaerosolbehälter" wird im Umkehrschluß zur Aerosoldefinition ein Behältnis unter Normaldruck definiert, mit dessen Hilfe ein Produkt mittels mechanischer Einwirkung durch ein Pumpsystem verteilt wird. The pressurized gas containers, with the aid of which a product is distributed by the internal gas pressure of the container via a valve, are defined as "aerosol containers". As a "nonaerosol container", a container under normal pressure is defined in reverse to the aerosol definition, with the aid of which a product is distributed by means of mechanical action by a pumping system.
Insbesondere bevorzugt sind die erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Mittel als Aerosolhaarschaum oder Aerosolhaarspray konfektioniert. Das erfindungsgemäße Mittel enthält daher bevorzugt zusätzlich mindestens ein Treibmittel. With particular preference the agents used according to the invention are formulated as aerosol hair foam or aerosol hair spray. The agent according to the invention therefore preferably additionally contains at least one propellant.
Erfindungsgemäß geeignete Treibmittel sind beispielsweise ausgewählt aus N20, Dimethylether, C02, Luft, Alkanen mit 3 bis 5 Kohlenstoffatomen, wie Propan, n-Butan, iso-Butan, n-Pentan und iso-Pentan, und deren Mischungen. Bevorzugt sind Dimethylether, Propan, n-Butan, iso-Butan und Mischungen daraus. Propellants which are suitable according to the invention are selected, for example, from N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 , air, alkanes having 3 to 5 carbon atoms, such as propane, n-butane, isobutane, n-pentane and isopentane, and mixtures thereof. Preference is given to dimethyl ether, propane, n-butane, isobutane and mixtures thereof.
Gemäß einer bevorzugten Ausführungsform werden die genannten Alkane, Mischungen der genannten Alkane oder Mischungen der genannten Alkane mit Dimethylether als einziges Treibmittel eingesetzt. Die Erfindung umfasst aber ausdrücklich auch die Mitverwendung von Treibmitteln vom Typ der Fluorchlorkohlenwasserstoffe, insbesondere aber der Fluorkohlenwasserstoffe. Über das Mengenverhältnis von Treibmittel zu den übrigen Bestandteilen der Zubereitungen lassen sich bei gegebener Sprühvorrichtung die Größen der Aerosoltröpfchen bzw. der Schaumblasen und die jeweilige Größenverteilung einstellen. According to a preferred embodiment, said alkanes, mixtures of said alkanes or mixtures of said alkanes with dimethyl ether are used as sole blowing agent. However, the invention expressly also includes the concomitant use of propellants of the type of chlorofluorocarbons, but in particular of fluorocarbons. With regard to the quantity ratio of blowing agent to the other constituents of the preparations, the sizes of the aerosol droplets or of the foam bubbles and the respective size distribution can be set for a given spraying device.
Die Menge an eingesetztem Treibmittel variiert in Abhängigkeit von der konkreten Zusammensetzung des Mittels, der verwendeten Verpackung und der gewünschten Produktart, etwa Haarspray oder Haarschaum. Bei Verwendung herkömmlicher Sprühvorrichtungen enthalten Aerosolschaumprodukte das Treibmittel bevorzugt in Mengen von 1 bis 35 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Produkt. Mengen von 2 bis 30 Gew.-%, insbesondere von 3 bis 15 Gew.-% sind besonders bevorzugt. Aerosolsprays enthalten generell größere Mengen an Treibmittel. Bevorzugt wird das Treibmittel in diesem Fall in einer Menge von 30 bis 98 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Produkt, eingesetzt. Mengen von 40 bis 95 Gew.-%, insbesondere von 50 bis 95 Gew.-% sind besonders bevorzugt. The amount of blowing agent used varies depending on the specific composition of the composition, the packaging used and the desired product type, such as hair spray or hair foam. When conventional spray devices are used, aerosol foam products preferably contain the blowing agent in amounts of from 1 to 35% by weight, based on the total product. Amounts of 2 to 30 wt .-%, in particular from 3 to 15 wt .-% are particularly preferred. Aerosol sprays generally contain larger amounts of propellant. Preferably, the blowing agent is used in this case in an amount of 30 to 98 wt .-%, based on the total product. Amounts of 40 to 95 wt .-%, in particular from 50 to 95 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
Die Aerosolprodukte lassen sich in üblicher Art und Weise herstellen. In der Regel werden alle Bestandteile des jeweiligen Mittels mit Ausnahme des Treibmittels in einen geeigneten druckfesten Behälter eingefüllt. Dieser wird daraufhin mit einem Ventil verschlossen. Über herkömmliche Techniken wird schließlich die gewünschte Menge Treibmittel eingefüllt. The aerosol products can be prepared in the usual way. As a rule, all constituents of the respective agent, with the exception of the propellant, are introduced into a suitable pressure-resistant container. This is then closed with a valve. By conventional techniques, finally, the desired amount of blowing agent is introduced.
Zur Verschäumung von gelförmigen Mitteln in einem Zweikammer-Aerosolbehälter eignet sich bevorzugt Isopentan als ein Treibmittel, welches in die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel eingearbeitet wird und in der ersten Kammer des Zweikammer-Aerosolbehälters konfektioniert ist. In der zweiten Kammer des Zweikammer-Aerosolbehälters wird mindestens ein weiteres, von Isopentan verschiedenes Treibmittel konfektioniert, welches in dem Zweikammer-Aerosolbehälter einen höheren Druck aufbaut als das Isopentan. Die Treibmittel der zweiten Kammer werden bevorzugt ausgewählt aus N20, Dimethylether, C02, Luft, Alkanen mit 3 oder 4 Kohlenstoffatomen (wie Propan, n-Butan, iso-Butan) sowie Mischungen daraus. For the foaming of gel-like agents in a two-chamber aerosol container isopentane is preferably suitable as a propellant, which is incorporated into the compositions according to the invention and is packaged in the first chamber of the two-chamber aerosol container. In the second chamber of the two-chamber aerosol container, at least one further propellant other than isopentane is made up, which builds up a higher pressure in the two-chamber aerosol container than the isopentane. The blowing agents of the second chamber are preferably selected from N 2 O, dimethyl ether, C0 2 , air, alkanes having 3 or 4 carbon atoms (such as propane, n-butane, iso-butane) and mixtures thereof.
Die erfindungsgemäße Verwendung der zuvor beschriebenen Mittel ermöglicht eine Verbesserung des Farberhalts oxidativ gefärbter keratinischer Fasern. The use according to the invention of the agents described above makes it possible to improve the color content of oxidatively colored keratinic fibers.
Ein weiterer Gegenstand der vorliegenden Anmeldung ist ein Verfahren zur Behandlung keratinhaltiger Fasern, insbesondere menschlichen Haars, umfassend die Schritte A further subject of the present application is a process for the treatment of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, comprising the steps
i) Durchführung einer oxidativen Färbung der keratinhaltigen Faser,  i) carrying out an oxidative dyeing of the keratin-containing fiber,
ii) Aufbringen eines Mittels, enthaltend in einem kosmetisch akzeptablen Träger  ii) applying an agent containing in a cosmetically acceptable carrier
a) mindestens ein Copolymer A mit mindestens einer Struktureinheit (A1 ), mindestens einer Struktureinheit (A2), mindestens eine Struktureinheit (A3) und mindestens einer Struktureinheit (A4), a) at least one copolymer A having at least one structural unit (A1), at least one structural unit (A2), at least one structural unit (A3) and at least one structural unit (A4),
wobei  in which
- R1 für einen gegebenenfalls heterofunktionaliserten Alkylrest steht;  R1 is an optionally heterofunctionalized alkyl radical;
- R2 für einen von R1 verschiedenen, gegebenenfalls heterofunktionalisierten Alkylrest steht;  R2 is a hetero-functionalized alkyl radical other than R1;
- R3 voneinander unabhängig für einen von R1 und R2 verschiedenen gegebenenfalls heterofunktionalisierten Alkylrest steht  - R3 independently of one another is an optionally heterofunctionalized alkyl radical other than R1 and R2
mindestens ein von Copolymer A verschiedenes Copolymer B mit mindestens einer Struktureinheit (B1 )  at least one copolymer A different from copolymer A having at least one structural unit (B1)
wobei R4 für einen gegebenenfalls heterofunktionaliserten Alkylrest steht,  where R 4 is an optionally heterofunctionalized alkyl radical,
auf die oxidativ gefärbte keratinhaltige Faser.  on the oxidatively colored keratin-containing fiber.
Als erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt gelten die zuvor genannten bevorzugten Ausführungsformen der Copolymere A und B sowie der Abgabevorrichtungen (vide supra). Preferred according to the invention are the abovementioned preferred embodiments of the copolymers A and B and the delivery devices (vide supra).
In einer bevorzugten Ausführungsform des erfindungsgemäßen Verfahrens wird das Mittel in Schritt ii) auf die keratinhaltigen Fasern appliziert und die keratinhaltigen Fasern in Form gebracht. Diese Form wird durch das in Schritt ii) aufgebrachte Mittel fixiert. In a preferred embodiment of the method according to the invention, the agent in step ii) is applied to the keratin-containing fibers and the keratin-containing fibers are shaped. This form is fixed by the agent applied in step ii).
B e i s p i e l e B e i s p e e l e
Die folgenden Mengenangaben verstehen sich - soweit nichts anderes vermerkt ist - in Gewichtsprozent. Unless otherwise stated, the following quantities are by weight.
Folgende Rezepturen wurden durch Vermischen der angegebenen Rohstoffe bereitgestellt: The following recipes were provided by mixing the specified raw materials:
Rohstoffe E1 V1 Raw materials E1 V1
Styleze XT3 10,0 - Amphomer 028-4910 2 2,7 Styleze XT3 10.0 - Amphomer 028-4910 2 2.7
2-Amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol 0,50  2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol 0.50
Wasser <- ad 100 ->  Water <- ad 100 ->
1 INCI: Water (and) Polyimide-1 (and) PVM/MA Copoylmer (and) Caprylyl Glycol (27 Gew.-% Aktivgehalt des Polymers; AKZO) 1 INCI: Water (and) Polyimide-1 (and) PVM / MA Copoylmer (and) Caprylyl Glycol (27% by Weight Active Content of the Polymer; AKZO)
2 Octylacrylamide/Acrylates/Butylaminoethylmethacrylate Copolymer (AKZO) 2 octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (AKZO)
Die Rezeptur E1 bewirkte nach Auftrag auf oxidativ gefärbte keratinische Fasern einen im Vergleich zur Rezeptur V1 nach zahlreichen Haarwäschen verbesserten Farberhalt. Formulation E1, when applied to oxidatively colored keratinic fibers, resulted in improved color retention compared to formulation V1 after numerous hair washes.

Claims

P a t e n t a n s p r ü c h e P atent claims
1. Verwendung eines Mittels, enthaltend in einem kosmetisch akzeptablen Träger 1. Use of an agent contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier
a) mindestens ein Copolymer A mit mindestens einer Struktureinheit (A1 ), mindestens einer Struktureinheit a) at least one copolymer A with at least one structural unit (A1), at least one structural unit
(A2), mindestens eine Struktureinheit (A2), at least one structural unit
(A3) und mindestens einer Struktureinheit (A3) and at least one structural unit
(A4), (A4),
wobei where
- R1 für einen gegebenenfalls heterofunktionaliserten Alkylrest steht; - R1 represents an optionally heterofunctionalized alkyl radical;
- R2 für einen von R1 verschiedenen, gegebenenfalls heterofunktionalisierten Alkylrest steht; - R2 represents an alkyl radical different from R1, optionally heterofunctionalized;
- R3 voneinander unabhängig für einen von R1 und R2 verschiedenen gegebenenfalls heterofunktionalisierten Alkylrest steht - R3 independently represents an optionally heterofunctionalized alkyl radical different from R1 and R2
mindestens ein von Copolymer A verschiedenes Copolymer B mit mindestens einer Struktureinheit (B1 ) at least one copolymer B different from copolymer A with at least one structural unit (B1)
wobei R4 für einen gegebenenfalls heterofunktionaliserten Alkylrest steht, where R4 represents an optionally heterofunctionalized alkyl radical,
zur Verbesserung des Farberhalts oxidativ gefärbter keratinhaltiger Fasern, insbesondere oxidativ gefärbten menschlichen Haars. to improve the color retention of oxidatively colored keratin-containing fibers, in particular oxidatively colored human hair.
Verwendung nach Anspruch 1 , dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass R1 in Formel (A1 ) für einen Rest -CH(CH3)CH2-(OCH(CH3)CH2)x(0[CH2]2)yOCH3 steht, in dem x und y unabhängig voneinander einen Wert zwischen 1 und 100 aufweisen. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that R1 in formula (A1) represents a radical -CH(CH 3 )CH2-(OCH(CH3)CH2)x(0[CH2]2) y OCH 3 , in which x and y independently have a value between 1 and 100.
Verwendung nach einem der vorherigen Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass Rest R2 in der Struktureinheit (A2) für einen aminogruppenhaltigen Rest, vorzugsweise für einen Rest mit einem tertiären Amin, steht. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that radical R2 in the structural unit (A2) represents a radical containing amino groups, preferably a radical with a tertiary amine.
Verwendung nach einem der vorherigen Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass mindestens einer der Reste R3 der Struktureinheit (A3) für einen Alkylrest, bevorzugt einen (C1 bis C4)-Alkylrest, steht. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one of the radicals R3 of the structural unit (A3) represents an alkyl radical, preferably a (C1 to C4) alkyl radical.
5. Verwendung nach einem der vorherigen Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Rest R4 in der Struktureinheit (B1 ) für einen Alkylrest, bevorzugt einen C1 bis C4 Alkylrest, besonders bevorzugt für -CH3 , steht. 5. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the radical R4 in the structural unit (B1) represents an alkyl radical, preferably a C1 to C4 alkyl radical, particularly preferably -CH 3 .
6. Verwendung nach einem der vorherigen Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Gewichtsanteil des Copolymers A am Gesamtgewicht erfindungsgemäßer kosmetischer Mittel 0,05 bis 10 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0, 1 bis 7,0 Gew.-% und insbesondere 0,2 bis 5,0 Gew.-%, beträgt. 6. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the proportion by weight of the copolymer A in the total weight of cosmetic products according to the invention is 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 7.0% by weight and in particular 0.2 up to 5.0% by weight.
7. Verwendung nach einem der vorherigen Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Gewichtsanteil des Copolymers B am Gesamtgewicht erfindungsgemäßer kosmetischer Mittel 0,05 bis 10 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0, 1 bis 7,0 Gew.-% und insbesondere 0,2 bis 5,0 Gew.-%, beträgt. 7. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the proportion by weight of the copolymer B in the total weight of cosmetic products according to the invention is 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 7.0% by weight and in particular 0.2 up to 5.0% by weight.
8. Verwendung nach einem der vorherigen Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das Gewichtsverhältnis des Copolymers A zum Copolymer B 20: 1 bis 1 :20, vorzugsweise 10: 1 bis 1 :10, insbesondere 8: 1 bis 1 :8 und ganz besonders bevorzugt 5:1 bis 1 :5, äußerst bevorzugt von 2:1 bis 1 :4, am bevorzugtesten von 1 :1 bis 1 :3 beträgt. 8. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of the copolymer A to the copolymer B is 20: 1 to 1:20, preferably 10: 1 to 1:10, in particular 8: 1 to 1:8 and very particularly preferred 5:1 to 1:5, most preferably from 2:1 to 1:4, most preferably from 1:1 to 1:3.
9. Verwendung nach einem der vorherigen Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Gesamtmenge der Mischung aus Copolymer A und Copolymer B bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht des Mittels, 0, 1 bis 10,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere 1 ,0 bis 5,0 Gew.-%, beträgt. 9. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total amount of the mixture of copolymer A and copolymer B, based on the total weight of the agent, is 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 5.0 % by weight.
10. Verwendung nach einem der vorherigen Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das Mittel einen pH-Wert von 6,8 bis 9,5, insbesondere von 7,0 bis 8,5, aufweist. 10. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the agent has a pH of 6.8 to 9.5, in particular 7.0 to 8.5.
1 1. Verwendung nach einem der vorherigen Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das Mittel als Creme oder Gel oder Pumpschaum oder Aerosolschaum vorliegt. 1 1. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the agent is present as a cream or gel or pump foam or aerosol foam.
12. Verwendung nach einem der vorherigen Ansprüche zur Verbesserung der Waschechtheit oxidativ gefärbter keratinhaltiger Fasern, insbesondere oxidativ gefärbten menschlichen Haars. 12. Use according to one of the preceding claims to improve the washing fastness of oxidatively colored keratin-containing fibers, in particular oxidatively colored human hair.
13. Verfahren zur Behandlung keratinhaltiger Fasern, insbesondere menschlichen Haars, umfassend die Schritte 13. Method for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, comprising the steps
i) Durchführung einer oxidativen Färbung der keratinhaltigen Faser, i) carrying out an oxidative staining of the keratin-containing fiber,
ii) Aufbringen eines Mittels, enthaltend in einem kosmetisch akzeptablen Träger ii) applying an agent contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier
a) mindestens ein Copolymer A mit mindestens einer Struktureinheit (A1 ), mindestens einer Struktureinheit (A2), mindestens eine Struktureinheit (A3) und mindestens einer Struktureinheit A4), a) at least one copolymer A with at least one structural unit (A1), at least one structural unit (A2), at least one structural unit (A3) and at least one structural unit A4),
wobei - R1 für einen gegebenenfalls heterofunktionaliserten Alkylrest steht; where - R1 represents an optionally heterofunctionalized alkyl radical;
- R2 für einen von R1 verschiedenen, gegebenenfalls heterofunktionalisierten Alkylrest steht; - R2 represents an alkyl radical different from R1, optionally heterofunctionalized;
- R3 voneinander unabhängig für einen von R1 und R2 verschiedenen gegebenenfalls heterofunktionalisierten Alkylrest steht - R3 independently represents an optionally heterofunctionalized alkyl radical different from R1 and R2
mindestens ein von Copolymer A verschiedenes Copolymer B mit mindestens einer Struktureinheit (B1 ) at least one copolymer B different from copolymer A with at least one structural unit (B1)
wobei R4 für einen gegebenenfalls heterofunktionaliserten Alkylrest steht, where R4 represents an optionally heterofunctionalized alkyl radical,
auf die oxidativ gefärbte keratinhaltige Faser. on the oxidatively colored keratin-containing fiber.
EP13796033.2A 2012-12-20 2013-11-22 Use of a product for keratin fibers, containing at least one specific polymer combination for improving the color retention of oxidative hair colorations Withdrawn EP2934675A2 (en)

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DE102012224051.9A DE102012224051A1 (en) 2012-12-20 2012-12-20 Use of an agent for keratin-containing fibers, containing at least one special polymer combination for improving the color content of oxidative hair colorations
PCT/EP2013/074433 WO2014095222A2 (en) 2012-12-20 2013-11-22 Use of a product for keratin fibers, containing at least one specific polymer combination for improving the color retention of oxidative hair colorations

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US9833394B1 (en) * 2016-05-12 2017-12-05 L'oreal Methods and compositions for improving the quality and durability of color in artificially colored hair
DE102016219846A1 (en) * 2016-10-12 2018-04-12 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Active substance mixtures for styling agents
WO2018102495A2 (en) * 2016-11-30 2018-06-07 Saudi Arabian Oil Company Invert emulsion drilling fluids with fatty acid and fatty diol rheology modifiers
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DE102019206914A1 (en) * 2019-05-13 2020-11-19 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Process for coloring keratinic material, comprising the use of an organosilicon compound, a coloring compound and a film-forming polymer II

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DE19736906A1 (en) 1997-08-25 1999-03-04 Henkel Kgaa Process for the preparation of sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters
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FR2785183B1 (en) 1998-11-04 2002-04-05 Oreal TINCTORIAL COMPOSITION CONTAINING CATIONIC DIRECT DYE AND PYRAZOLO- [1,5-a] - PYRIMIDINE AS OXIDATION BASE, AND DYEING METHODS
FR2907667B1 (en) 2006-10-26 2008-12-12 Oreal PROCESS FOR PROTECTING THE COLOR OF ARTIFICIALLY ARTIFICIENT KERATIN FIBERS WITH RESPECT TO WASHING AND LIGHT; COLORING PROCESSES
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US20150283058A1 (en) 2015-10-08

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