EP2793838A2

EP2793838A2 - Compositions for keratinous fibres, comprising at least one cellulose with cationic structural unit and at least one specific copolymer

Info

Publication number: EP2793838A2
Application number: EP12790874.7A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Diane Metten; Bernd Richters; Rene Scheffler
Original assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Current assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date: 2011-12-22
Filing date: 2012-11-20
Publication date: 2014-10-29
Also published as: DE102011089627A1; WO2013092074A2; US20140377204A1; WO2013092074A3

Abstract

Compositions for the treatment of keratinous fibres, more particularly human hair, comprising in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle (a) at least one cellulose with cationic structural unit, and (b) at least one copolymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (A1), at least one structural unit of the formula (A2) and at least one structural unit of the formula (A3), in which R¹, R³ and R⁷ independently of one another are each a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, R² is a (C₁ to C₄)-alkyl group, R⁴ is a hydroxy‑(C₂ to C₆)-alkyl group, the use of the compositions for temporary deformation of hair and for hair care, more particularly as aerosol hair spray or aerosol hair mousse.

Description

"Agent for keratin-containing fibers containing at least one cationic moiety cellulose and at least one special copolymer"

The present invention relates to hair treatment compositions containing a combination of at least one cationic moiety with at least one particular copolymer, the use of these agents for temporary shaping and / or care of keratinous fibers and aerosol hair sprays / foams based on these compositions.

In principle, all animal hair, e.g. Wool, horsehair, angora hair, furs, feathers and products or textiles made from them. Preferably, however, the keratinic fibers are human hairs.

An attractive-looking hairstyle is now generally considered an indispensable part of a well-groomed appearance. Due to current fashion trends, hairstyles are always considered to be chic, which in many hair types can only be built up using firming agents or can be maintained for a longer period of time up to several days. Therefore, hair treatment agents that serve a permanent or temporary shaping of the hair play an important role. Temporary shapes that should give a good hold, without affecting the healthy appearance of the hair, such as their gloss, can be achieved for example by hair sprays, hair waxes, hair gels, hair mousses, hair drier, etc.

Corresponding temporary shaping agents usually contain synthetic polymers as the shaping component. Preparations containing a dissolved or dispersed polymer can be applied to the hair by means of propellant gases or by a pumping mechanism. In particular, however, hair gels and hair waxes are generally not applied directly to the hair, but distributed by means of a comb or hands in the hair.

The most important property of a composition for the temporary deformation of keratinic fibers, also referred to below as styling agent, is to give the treated fibers in the produced form the strongest possible hold. If the keratin fibers are human hair, it is also referred to as a strong hairstyle or the high degree of retention of the styling agent. The hairstyle hold is essentially determined by the type and amount of synthetic polymer used, but also an influence of the other components of the styling can be given by means of.

In addition to a high degree of hold, styling agents must meet a whole range of other requirements. These may be broad in properties on the hair, properties of the particular formulation, For example, properties of the foam, the gel or the sprayed aerosol, and properties relating to the handling of the styling agent, are subdivided, the properties of the hair are of particular importance. Particularly noteworthy are moisture resistance, low tackiness and a balanced conditioning effect. Furthermore, a styling agent should be universally applicable as possible for all hair types.

In order to meet the different requirements, a large number of synthetic polymers has already been developed, which are used in styling agents. The polymers can be subdivided into cationic, anionic, nonionic and amphoteric film-forming and / or setting polymers. Ideally, when applied to hair, the polymers give a polymer film which, on the one hand, gives the hairstyle strong hold but, on the other hand, is sufficiently flexible not to break under stress. If the polymer film is too brittle, it results in the formation of so-called Filmpiaken, that is residues that detach during the movement of the hair and give the impression that the user of the corresponding styling agent would dandruff.

Developing styling agents that have all the desired properties in combination is still difficult. In particular, this applies to the combination of strong hold on the one hand and simple, uniform application to the keratinous fibers on the other.

Object of the present invention was therefore to provide a means for temporary deformation and / or care keratinic fibers available, which is characterized by a high degree of hold or by a high care effect and in particular excellent handling during application to the keratin fibers has.

It has now surprisingly been found that this can be achieved by a combination of special polymers. Furthermore, within the scope of specific embodiments of the invention, in addition to these excellent properties, compositions without turbidity have been provided. The absence of turbidity is of particular importance in the context of the provision of aerosol compositions, since solid suspended particles can lead to a blockage of the outlet nozzle of the aerosol packaging. In general, there is the additional risk of sedimentation in turbid and low-viscosity compositions, which has an adverse effect on the storage stability of the composition.

A first subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic agent for the cosmetic treatment of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

(a) at least one cellulose with cationic structural unit and

(b) at least one copolymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (A1), at least one structural unit of the formula (A2) and at least one structural unit of the formula (A3), wherein

R, R ³ and R ⁷ independently represent a hydrogen atom or a

Methyl group,

R ² is a (C 1 -C ₄ ) -alkyl group,

R ⁴ is a hydroxy (C ₂ to C ₆ ) alkyl group.

According to the above formulas and all following formulas, a chemical bond marked with the symbol ^{* stands} for a free valency of the corresponding structural fragment.

Examples of (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl groups according to the invention are methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl.

Preferred agents according to the invention comprise the cationic structural unit cellulose of component (a) in an amount of from 0.05% to 8.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, 0 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.2 to 2.5 wt.%, Each based on the total weight of the composition.

Preferred agents contain the copolymers of component (b) in an amount of from 0.05% by weight to 8.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 5.0% by weight, completely particularly preferably from 0.2 to 2.5% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the composition.

A preferred suitable cosmetic agent of this invention comprises the celluloses having the cationic structural unit according to component (a) and the copolymers of component (b) in a weight ratio range of (a) to (b) of 5 to 1 to 1 to 5, in particular 2 to 1 to 1 to 2.

The properties of the agent according to the invention prove to be particularly advantageous when it is formulated as an aerosol spray, aerosol foam, pump spray or pump foam. This preferred form of packaging will be described later in detail.

The celluloses with cationic structural unit according to the invention preferably have an average molecular weight (M _w ) of from 10,000 g / mol to 50,000,000 g / mol, in particular from 100,000 g / mol to 5,000,000 g / mol, more preferably from 200,000 g / mol to 1,000,000 g / mol , on. The said weight average is an average molecular weight which takes into account the total weight of the molecules of different molecular weight and not just the number of molecules. For the statistical calculation of the weight average, first the "weight fraction"

Are defined. This indicates the proportion by weight of macromolecules in the sample, which consists of; ^' Segments (eg monomer building blocks) of mass M, exist and occur in the sample N-ma \. For the weight-average molecular weight M _w = lw, M, thus applies

M _w = [I (A / i M ² i)] / [I (A / i Mi)].

Particularly good effects are achieved when the cellulose with cationic structural unit is selected from quaternized cellulose. Such a cellulose has permanently cationic structural units comprising at least one quaternized nitrogen atom. Cosmetic compositions which contain at least one (C ₂ to C ₄ ) -hydroxyalkylcellulose compound having at least one cationic structural unit as the cellulose having a cationic structural unit have proven particularly suitable. Particularly preferred are hydroxyethyl cellulose compounds having at least one cationic structural unit. Again, these are preferably quaternized (C ₂ to C ₄ ) hydroxyalkyl cellulose, in particular quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose.

It is particularly preferred in the context of the present invention if the cationic structural unit comprises the group 2-hydroxy-3- (trimethylammonio) propoxy which binds to the cellulose backbone, in particular the (C ₂ to C ₄ ) hydroxyalkylcellulose backbone (preferably hydroxyethylcellulose backbone).

Quaternized celluloses are available in the market with varying degrees of substitution, cationic charge density, nitrogen content and molecular weights. For example, Polyquaternium-67 is commercially available under the designations SL ^® polymer or polymer ^® SK (Amerchol) is. Other cationic celluloses are, 400 (Amerchol, INCI name Polyquaternium-10) and polymer Quatrisoft ^® LM-200 (Amerchol, INCI name Polyquaternium-24) under the names Polymer JR ^®. Other commercial products, the compounds Celquat ^® H 100 and Celquat ^® L are 200. Finally, located under the trade designation Mirustyle CP ^® of the company. Croda with Trimonium and Cocodimonium hydroxyethylcellulose a further derivatized cellulose with the INCI name Polyquaternium-72 before. Polyquaternium-72 can be used pre-dissolved both in solid form and already in aqueous solution. Particularly preferred cationic celluloses are selected from Polyquaternium-10 and / or Polyquaternium-67, most preferably Polyquaternium-10. In addition to the said cellulose having the cationic structural unit of component (a), the composition according to the invention necessarily contains as component (b) at least one previously defined copolymer (vide supra). This copolymer is of course different from the compounds of component (a).

It is preferred according to the invention if R according to formula (A1) is a methyl group.

It is inventively preferred if R ² according to formula (A1) for a methyl group, a

Ethyl group, an n-butyl group, a tert-butyl group.

It is preferred according to the invention if the radical R ⁴ according to formula (A2) is a 2-hydroxyethyl group, a 2-hydroxypropyl group or a 3-hydroxypropyl group.

An inventively particularly preferred copolymer of component (b) comprises structural units of the formula (A1) wherein R is a methyl group and R ^{2 is} a methyl group and structural units of the formula (A1) wherein R is a hydrogen atom and R ^{2 is} a butyl group (especially for an n-butyl group), and structural units of the formula (A2) wherein R ^{3 is} a methyl group and R ^{4 is} a 2-hydroxyethyl group and structural units of the formula (A3) wherein R ^{7 is} a methyl group.

It is particularly preferred according to the invention if the copolymer of component (b) comprises, in addition to the abovementioned structural units (in particular in addition to the abovementioned structural units (vide supra)) at least one structural unit of the formula (A4),

wherein

R represents a hydrogen atom or a group ^* -C-OR ⁵

II

O

in which R ^{5 represents} a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ to C ₆ ) -alkyl group,

R 'represents a hydrogen atom or a group ^* CH ₂ -C-OR' 8

II

O

where R is a hydrogen atom or a (C 1 -C ₆ ) -alkyl group, R ⁶ is a hydrogen atom or a (C 1 -C ₆ ) -alkyl group,

with the proviso that only one of the groups R or R 'is a hydrogen atom. The structural units of the formula (A4) are derived from unsaturated dicarboxylic acids, namely from the itaconic acid or the maleic acid and in each case their monoesters or their diesters.

The cosmetic agents according to the invention preferably comprise at least one copolymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (A1), at least one structural unit of the formula (A2) and at least one structural unit of the formula (A3), and at least one structural unit of the formula (A4-1),

wherein

R, R ³ and R ⁷ independently represent a hydrogen atom or a

Methyl group,

R ² is a (C 1 -C ₄ ) -alkyl group,

R ⁴ is a hydroxy (C ₂ to C ₆ ) alkyl group,

R ⁵ and R ⁶ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ to C ₆ ) -alkyl group.

Preferred agents according to the invention comprise those copolymers of component (b) which, in addition to the other structural units, comprise a structural unit of the formula (A4-1) in which R ⁵ and R ⁶ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, methyl, ethyl, propyl or isopropyl. Particularly preferred agents according to the invention comprise those copolymers of component (b) which, in addition to the other structural units, comprise a structural unit of the formula (A4-1) in which R ⁵ and R ⁶ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, methyl or ethyl. In a very particularly preferred embodiment of the agent according to the invention is at least one structural unit of the formula (A4-1) wherein R ⁵ and R ^{6 is} a hydrogen atom.

An inventively very particularly preferred copolymer of component (b) comprises structural units of the formula (A1) wherein R is a methyl group and R ^{2 is} a methyl group and structural units of the formula (A1) wherein R is a hydrogen atom and R ^{2 is} a butyl group (in particular is an n-butyl group), and structural units of the formula (A2) in which R ^{3 is} a methyl group and R ^{4 is} a 2-hydroxyethyl group and structural units of the formula (A3) in which R ^{7 is} a methyl group, and structural units of the formula ( A4-1), wherein R ⁵ and R ^{6 represent} a hydrogen atom. Such a polymer bears the INCI nomenclature Acrylates / C1-2 succinates / hydroxy acrylate copolymer. It can be purchased, for example, from Dow under the trade name Acudyne LT-120 (INCI nomenclature: Acrylates / C1-2 succinates / hydroxy acrylate copolymer, 47% by weight of active substance in water.

The following embodiments of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are particularly suitable for achieving the object:

(A) Composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

(a) at least one hydroxyethylcellulose having at least one structural unit 2-hydroxy-3- (trimethylammonio) propoxy which binds to the hydroxyethylcellulose backbone and

(b) at least one copolymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (A1), at least one structural unit of the formula (A2) and at least one structural unit of the formula (A3), and at least one structural unit of the formula (A4-1),

wherein

R, R ³ and R ⁷ independently represent a hydrogen atom or a

Methyl group,

R ² is a (C 1 -C ₄ ) -alkyl group,

R ⁴ is a hydroxy (C ₂ to C ₆ ) alkyl group,

(B) agents for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

(b) at least one copolymer comprising structural units of the formula (A1) in which R is a methyl group and R ^{2 is} a methyl group, and structural units of the formula (A1) in which R is a hydrogen atom and R ^{2 is} a butyl group (in particular an n-) Butyl group), and structural units of the formula (A2) in which R ^{3 is} a methyl group and R ^{4 is} a 2-hydroxyethyl group and structural units of the formula (A3) in which R ^{7 is} a Methyl group is at least one structural unit of the formula (A2) and at least one structural unit of the formula (A3), and at least one structural unit of the formula (A4-1),

(C) agents for the cosmetic treatment of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

(a) Polyquaternium 10

and

(b) at least one copolymer having the INCI nomenclature Acrylates / C1-2 succinates / hydroxy acrylate copolymer.

(D) A composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

(a) 0.05 wt.% to 8.0 wt.%, preferably from 0.1 wt.% to 5.0 wt.%, particularly preferably from 0.2 to 2.5 wt.% , at least one hydroxyethylcellulose having at least one structural unit 2-hydroxy-3- (trimethylammonio) propoxy which binds to the hydroxyethylcellulose backbone

and

(b) from 0.05% to 8.0% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 2.5% by weight , at least one copolymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (A1), at least one structural unit of the formula (A2) and at least one structural unit of the formula (A3),

wherein

R, R ³ and R ⁷ independently represent a hydrogen atom or a

Methyl group,

R ² is a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl group,

R ⁴ is a hydroxy (C ₂ to C ₆ ) alkyl group.

(E) agents for the cosmetic treatment of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

(a) 0.05 wt.% to 8.0 wt.%, preferably from 0.1 wt.% to 5.0 wt.%, particularly preferably from 0.2 to 2.5 wt.% , at least one hydroxyethylcellulose with at least one Structural unit 2-hydroxy-3- (trimethylammonio) propoxy, which binds to the hydroxyethyl cellulose backbone

and

(b) from 0.05% to 8.0% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 2.5% by weight , at least one copolymer comprising structural units of the formula (A1) in which R is a methyl group and R ^{2 is} a methyl group, and structural units of the formula (A1) in which R is a hydrogen atom and R ^{2 is} a butyl group (in particular an n-butyl group) and structural units of the formula (A2) in which R ^{3 is} a methyl group and R ^{4 is} a 2-hydroxyethyl group and structural units of the formula (A3) in which R ^{7 is} a methyl group at least one structural unit of the formula (A2) and at least one structural unit of the formula (A3), and at least one structural unit of the formula (A4-1),

(F) agents for the cosmetic treatment of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

(a) 0.05 wt.% to 8.0 wt.%, preferably from 0.1 wt.% to 5.0 wt.%, particularly preferably from 0.2 to 2.5 wt.% , Polyquaternium-10

and

(b) from 0.05% to 8.0% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 2.5% by weight , at least one copolymer with the INCI nomenclature Acrylates / C1-2 Succinates / Hydroxyacrylates Copolymer.

It is particularly preferred if, for all embodiments of the first subject of the invention, the copolymers of component (b) are completely or partially neutralized. For neutralization, at least one alkanolamine is preferably used. For this reason, preferred agents according to the invention (in particular the preferred embodiments (A) to (F)) additionally contain at least one alkanolamine. The alkanolamines which can be used as alkalizing agents according to the invention are preferably selected from primary amines having a C ₂ -C ₆ -alkyl basic body which carries at least one hydroxyl group. Particularly preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group formed from 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1 -Aminopropan-2-ol, 1-Aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol , 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropane-1, 2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol. Very particularly preferred according to the invention Alkanolamines are selected from the group 2-aminoethane-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol and 2-amino-2-methyl-propane-1, 3-diol.

The compositions according to the invention preferably have a pH of from pH 4 to pH 9, particularly preferably from pH 6 to pH 7, at 20 ° C.

In order to intensify the effect according to the invention, the agents according to the invention preferably additionally comprise at least one surfactant, nonionic, anionic, cationic, ampholytic surfactants being suitable in principle. The group of ampholytic or amphoteric surfactants includes zwitterionic surfactants and ampholytes. The surfactants according to the invention may already have emulsifying activity.

The additional surfactants are in the inventive composition preferably in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.05 wt .-% to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the Weight of the agent, included.

It has proved to be particularly preferred if the agents according to the invention additionally comprise at least one nonionic surfactant.

Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group, or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Such compounds are, for example

Addition products of 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group .

with a methyl or C ₂ - C ₆ - alkyl radical end-capped addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and with alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as those available under the trade names Dehydol ^® LS, LT Dehydol ^® types (Cognis),

C 12 -C ₃₀ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with glycerol,

Addition products of 5 to 60 mol ethylene oxide onto castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, polyol fatty acid esters, such as the commercially available product ^® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol - types (Cognis),

alkoxylated triglycerides,

alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula (E4-I)

R CO- (OCH ₂ CHR ² ) _w OR ³ (E4-I)

in which R is CO for a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen or methyl, R ^{3 is} linear or branched

Alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is from 1 to 20,

Amine oxides,

Hydroxy mixed ethers, as described, for example, in DE-OS 19738866, sorbitan fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide onto sorbitan fatty acid esters, for example the polysorbates,

Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters, addition products of ethylene oxide onto fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,

Sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type of formula (E4-II),

R ⁴ 0- [G] _p (E4-II)

in which R ^{4 is} an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry.

The alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids with in each case 2 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid have proven to be very particularly preferred nonionic surfactants. Preparations with excellent properties are also obtained when they contain as nonionic surfactants C ₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol and / or addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil ,

The agents according to the invention as surfactant very particularly preferably contain at least one addition product of from 15 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, in particular from 15 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide, to a linear or branched (in particular linear) fatty alcohol having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms. These are very particularly preferably Ceteareth-15, Ceteareth-25 or Ceteareth- 50, which are marketed as Eumulgin ^® CS 15 (Cognis), Cremophor A25 (BASF SE) or Eumulgin ^® CS 50 (Cognis).

Suitable anionic surfactants are in principle all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group,

linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps), Ether carboxylic acids of the formula R-O- (CH 2 -CH 2 O) _x -CH 2 -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,

Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,

linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 C atoms,

linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 C atoms,

Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms,

Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula R-O (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,

Mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates,

sulfated hydroxyalkylpolyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene glycol ethers,

Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds, esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,

sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula (E1-II)

R ⁷ CO (AlkO) _n S0 ₃ M (E1 -II)

in the R ⁷ CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Alk for CH ₂ CH ₂ , CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or CH ₂ CHCH ₃ , n for numbers from 0.5 to 5 and M is a cation, as described in DE-OS 197 36 906,

amide ether carboxylic acids,

Condensation products of C ₈ - C ₃₀ - fat alcohols with protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids and their derivatives, which are known to the skilled person as protein fatty acid condensates, such as Lamepon ^® - types Gluadin ^® - types Hostapon ^® KCG or Amisoft ^® - types.

Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethyl ester having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerdisulfate, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and Eiweissfettsäurekondensate. Also usable according to the invention are cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats and the amidoamines. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides. The long alkyl chains of these surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms, such as. In cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride and tricetylmethyl ammonium chloride. Further preferred cationic surfactants are the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.

Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ^<_) in the molecule - Wear group - or -S0 ₃ ^<_). Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytes are surface-active compounds which, apart from a C ₈ - C ₂ 4 - alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -S0 ₃ H group in the molecule and are capable of forming inner salts , Examples of suitable ampholytes are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytes are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and the d ₂ -C ₈ -acylsarcosine.

The agents according to the invention contain the ingredients or active ingredients in a cosmetically acceptable carrier.

Preferred cosmetically acceptable carriers are aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic media with preferably at least 10% by weight of water, based on the total agent. As alcohols, it is possible in particular to include the lower alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms usually used for cosmetic purposes, such as, for example, ethanol and isopropanol. It is according to the invention preferably at least one (Ci to C ₄ ) monoalkyl alcohol in the inventive compositions, in particular in an amount of 1 to 50 wt .-%, in particular of 5 to use 30 wt .-%. This is in turn preferred in particular for the packaging as pump foam or aerosol foam.

As additional co-solvents, organic solvents or a mixture of solvents having a boiling point below 400 ° C in an amount of 0, 1 to 15 weight percent, preferably from 1 to 10 weight percent based on the total agent may be included. Particularly suitable as additional co-solvents are unbranched or branched hydrocarbons such as pentane, hexane, isopentane and cyclic hydrocarbons such as cyclopentane and cyclohexane. Further, particularly preferred water-soluble solvents are glycerol, ethylene glycol and propylene glycol in an amount of up to 30% by weight, based on the total agent.

In particular, the addition of glycerol and / or propylene glycol and / or polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol increases the flexibility of the polymer film formed when the agent according to the invention is used. Thus, if a flexible hold is desired, the compositions according to the invention preferably contain from 0.01 to 30% by weight of glycerol and / or propylene glycol and / or polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol, based on the total agent.

The agents preferably have a pH of 2 to 1 1. The pH range between 2 and 8 is particularly preferred. The pH value in the context of this document refers to the pH at 25 ° C., unless stated otherwise.

The compositions of the invention may further contain the auxiliaries and additives which are usually added to conventional styling agents.

As suitable auxiliaries and additives in particular additional care substances are mentioned.

As a care material, for example, a silicone oil and / or a silicone gum can be used.

Silicone oils or silicone gums which are suitable according to the invention are in particular dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes, for example dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, and also their alkoxylated, quaternized or else anionic derivatives. Preference is given to cyclic and linear polydialkylsiloxanes, their alkoxylated and / or aminated derivatives, dihydroxypoly-dimethylsiloxanes and polyphenylalkylsiloxanes.

Silicone oils cause a wide variety of effects. For example, at the same time they influence the dry and wet combability, the grip of dry and wet hair and the shine. The term "silicone oils" is understood by the person skilled in the art as meaning several structures of silicon-organic compounds. Initially, this is understood to mean the dimethiconols.

Examples of such products include the following commercial products: Botanisil NU-150M (Botanigenics), Dow Corning 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9026 Fluid, Ultrapure Dimethiconol (Ultra Chemical), Unisil SF-R (Universal Preserve), X-21-5619 (Shin- Etsu Chemical Co.), Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Specialties), ACC DL-9430 Emulsion (Taylor Chemical Company ), AEC Dimethiconol & Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate (A & E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics) Ltd.), BC Dimethiconol Emulsion 95 (Basildon Chemical Company, Ltd.), Cosmetic Fluid 1401, Cosmetic Fluid 1403, Cosmetic Fluid 1501, Cosmetic Fluid 1401 DC (all aforementioned Chemsil Silicones, Inc.), Dow Corning 1401 Fluid, Dow Corning 1403 Fluid, Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend (all aforementioned Dow Corning Corporation), Dub Gel Sl 1400 (Dubois Fils Stearinerie), HVM 4852 Emulsion (Crompton Corporation), Jeesilc 6056 (Jeen International Corporation), Lubrasil, Lubrasil DS (both Guardian Laboratories), Nonychosine E, Nonychosine V (both exsymol), SanSurf Petrolatum-25, Satin Finish (both Collaborative Laboratories, Inc. ), Silatex D30 (Cosmetic Ingredient Resources), Silsoft 148, Silsoft E-50, Silsoft E-623 (all aforementioned Crompton Corporation), SM555, SM2725, SM2765, SM2785 (all aforementioned GE Silicones), Taylor T-Sil CD-1, Taylor TME-4050E (all Taylor Chemical Company), THV 148 (Crompton Corporation), Tixogel CYD-1429 (Sud-Chemie Performance Additives), Wacker-Belsil CM 1000, Wacker-Belsil CM 3092, Wacker-Belsil CM 5040, Wacker-Belsil DM 3096, Wacker-Belsil DM 31 12 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 8005 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 60081 VP (all Wacker-Chemie GmbH mentioned above).

Dimethicones form the second group of silicones which may be present according to the invention. These may be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched.

Dimethicone copolyols (S3) form another group of silicones that are suitable. Corresponding dimethicone copolyols are commercially available and are sold, for example, by Dow Corning under the name Dow ^Corning® 5330 Fluid.

Of course, the teaching according to the invention also encompasses the fact that the dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolymers can already be present as an emulsion. In this case, the corresponding emulsion of dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols from these and the conventional methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art. For this purpose, both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions. Of course, the emulsions of dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art. If the dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols are used as emulsion, then the droplet size of the emulsified particles according to the invention 0.01 to 10,000 μιη, preferably 0.01 to 100 μιη, more preferably 0.01 to 20 μιη and most preferably 0 , 01 to 10 μιη. The particle size is determined by the method of light scattering.

If branched dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols are used, it is to be understood that the branching is greater than a random branching, which occurs randomly due to impurities of the respective monomers. For the purposes of the present invention, branched dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols are therefore to be understood as meaning that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%. Preferably, a degree of branching is greater than 0.1%, and most preferably greater than 0.5%. The degree of branching is determined from the ratio of the unbranched monomers to the branching monomers, that is, the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention, both low-branched and highly branched dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols can be very particularly preferred.

Particularly suitable silicones are amino-functional silicones, in particular the silicones, which are summarized under the INCI name Amodimethicone. Therefore, it is preferred according to the invention if the agents according to the invention additionally contain at least one amino-functional silicone. These are silicones which have at least one, optionally substituted, amino group. These silicones are referred to as amodimethicone according to the INCI nomenclature and are available for example in the form of an emulsion as a commercial product Dow Corning ^® 939 or as a commercial product Dow Corning ^® 949 in a mixture with a cationic and a nonionic surfactant.

Preferably, those amino-functional silicones are used which have an amine number above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and especially preferably above 0.4 meq / g. The amine number stands for the milliequivalents of amine per gram of the amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and also expressed in mg KOH / g.

The agents contain the silicones preferably in amounts of from 0.01% by weight to 15% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight, based on the total agent.

As a care substance of another class of compounds, the agent may contain, for example, at least one protein hydrolyzate and / or one of its derivatives.

Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins). Under the term protein hydrolysates will be According to the invention, total hydrolyzates and individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids are understood. The molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.

According to the invention, protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois® ^® (Interorgana) Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ^® (Inolex) sericin (Pentapharm) and kerasol tm ^® (Croda) sold.

The protein hydrolysates are present in the agents according to the invention, for example, in concentrations of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0 , 05 wt .-% up to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total application preparation included.

As a care substance, the agent according to the invention may further comprise at least one vitamin, a provitamin, a vitamin precursor and / or one of their derivatives.

According to the invention, such vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin Ai) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The agents preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total application preparation.

The vitamin B group or to the vitamin B complex include vitamin B-ι (thiamine), vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin), vitamin B ₃ (nicotinic acid and / or nicotinamide (niacinamide)), vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone), vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin E (tocopherols, in particular a-tocopherol), vitamin F (linoleic acid and / or linolenic acid), vitamin H. The agents according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, C, E and H. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinamide and biotin are particularly preferred.

Very particular preference is given to using D-panthenol as a care substance, if appropriate in combination with at least one of the abovementioned silicone derivatives.

As with the addition of glycerin and / or propylene glycol, the addition of panthenol increases the flexibility of the polymer film formed using the composition of the present invention. If, therefore, a particularly flexible hold is desired, the compositions according to the invention may contain panthenol instead of or in addition to glycerol and / or propylene glycol. In a preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention contain panthenol, preferably in an amount of 0.05 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total agent.

As a conditioner, the compositions according to the invention may further contain at least one plant extract.

Usually these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.

The extracts of green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime , Wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.

Furthermore, it may be preferred to use in the compositions according to the invention mixtures of several, especially two, different plant extracts.

Mono- or oligosaccharides can also be used as a care substance in the compositions according to the invention.

Both monosaccharides and oligosaccharides, such as cane sugar, lactose and raffinose, can be used. The use of monosaccharides is preferred according to the invention. Among the monosaccharides, in turn, those compounds which contain 5 or 6 carbon atoms are preferred.

Suitable pentoses and hexoses are, for example, ribose, arabinose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, glucose, mannose, gulose, idose, galactose, talose, fucose and fructose. Arabinose, glucose, galactose and fructose are preferably used carbohydrates; Very particular preference is given to using glucose which is in both the D - (+) or L - (-) configuration or as Racemat is suitable. Furthermore, derivatives of these pentoses and hexoses, such as the corresponding on- and uronic acids (sugar acids), sugar alcohols and glycosides, can also be used according to the invention. Preferred sugars are gluconic acid, glucuronic acid, sugar acid, mannose and mucic acid. Preferred sugar alcohols are sorbitol, mannitol and dulcitol. Preferred glycosides are the methylglucosides. Since the mono- or oligosaccharides used are usually obtained from natural raw materials such as starch, they usually have the configurations corresponding to these raw materials (eg D-glucose, D-fructose and D-galactose).

The mono- or oligosaccharides are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.1 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total application preparation.

The agent may further contain at least one lipid as a care substance.

Lipids which are suitable according to the invention are phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, and also the substances known by the INCI names linoleneamidopropyl PG-dimonium chlorides phosphates, cocamidopropyl PG-dimonium chlorides phosphates and stearamidopropyl PG-dimonium chlorides phosphates. These are sold, for example, by the company Mona under the trade names Phospholipid ^EFA® , Phospholipid ^PTC® and Phospholipid ^SV® . The agents according to the invention preferably contain the lipids in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the total application preparation.

Furthermore, oil bodies are suitable as a care substance.

The natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies include, for example: vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.

liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether Di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl-n-octyl ether, n-octyl-n-decyl ether, n-decyl-n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n Undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The compounds are available as commercial products 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred.

Esteröle. Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C ₆ - C ₃₀ fatty acids with C ₂ - C ₃₀ fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, caprate Kokosfettalkohol- / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate , oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit ^® IPP), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), decyl oleate (Cetiol ^® V).

Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2- ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate,

Propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol di-isostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate,

symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in DE-OS 197 56 454, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),

Trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol,

Fatty acid partial glycerides, which are understood to mean monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. With the use of technical products production reasons may still contain small amounts of triglycerides. The partial glycerides preferably follow the formula (D4-I),

CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _m R

I

CHO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ² (D4-I)

I

CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _q R ³ in the R, R ² and R ^{3 are} independently of one another hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms are provided with the proviso that at least one of these groups is an acyl radical and at least one of these groups is hydrogen. The sum (m + n + q) is 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25. Preferably, R is an acyl radical and R ² and R ^{3 are} hydrogen and the sum (m + n + q ) is 0. Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, Elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Preferably, oleic acid monoglycerides are used. The amount used of the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies in the compositions according to the invention is usually 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total application preparation, preferably 0.1 to 20% by weight, and in particular 0.1 to 15% by weight. %.

Although each of the aforementioned care substances alone already gives a satisfactory result, in the context of the present invention, all embodiments are also included, in which the agent contains a plurality of care substances also from different groups.

By adding a UV filter, both the agents themselves and the treated fibers can be protected from the harmful effects of UV radiation. Preferably, therefore, at least one UV filter is added to the agent. The suitable UV filters are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.

The UV filters preferred according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

Examples of UV filters which can be used according to the invention are 4-aminobenzoic acid, Ν, Ν, Ν-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate (homosalates), 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2- oxo-bicyclo- [2.2.1] hept-1-yl-methanesulphonic acid) and its salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, a- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidene) toluene-4-sulfonic acid and salts thereof, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (PEG-25 PABA; Uvinul ^® P 25), 4-dimethylamino benzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, -2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt (Benzophenone-4; Uvinul ^® MS 40; Uvasorb ^® S 5) , 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 3-benzylidene-camphor (3-benzylidene camphor) , 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino (p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxy) -1, 3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, Polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} -acrylamide, 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 1, 1'-diphenylacrylonitrile acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, o-aminobenzoic acid menthyl ester, 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone-5-sodium sulfonate and 2-cyano- 3,3-diphenylacrylic acid 2'-ethylhexyl ester. Preference is given to 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt and / or ethoxylated ethyl 4-aminobenzoate. The UV filters are usually contained in amounts of 0.01-5 wt .-%, based on the total application preparation. Amounts of 0, 1-2.5 wt .-% are preferred.

In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention also contains one or more substantive dyes. This allows the treated keratin fiber not only to be temporarily patterned when the agent is applied, but also dyed at the same time. This may be particularly desirable if only a temporary dyeing is desired, for example, with eye-catching fashion colors, which can be removed again by simple washing from the keratinic fiber.

Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols. Preferred substantive dyes are those having the international designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, HC Orange 1, HC Red 1, HC Red 1, HC Red 13, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, HC Red BN, Pigment Red 57: 1, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 1, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Black 9, Acid Black 1, and Acid Black 52 known compounds and 1, 4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1, 4-bis (ß-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- (ß- hydroxyethyl) aminophenol, 2- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-4-methyl-2-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-4- (2 ' -hydroxyethyl) amino-5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 1- (2'-ureidoethyl) amino-4-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-2-nitro-d iphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, picramic acid and its salts, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4- Ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-1-hydroxy-4-nitrobenzene. Preference is given to using cationic substantive dyes. Particularly preferred are

(a) cationic triphenylmethane dyes such as Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14,

(b) aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group, such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, as well as

(C) substantive dyes containing a heterocycle having at least one quaternary nitrogen atom, as mentioned for example in EP-A2-998 908, to which reference is explicitly made at this point in claims 6 to 1 1 are called.

The dyes which are also known by the names Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51 are very particularly preferred cationic substantive dyes of group (c). The cationic direct dyes, which are sold under the trademark Arianor ^®, according to the invention are also very particularly preferred cationic direct dyes. The agents according to the invention according to this embodiment preferably contain the substantive dyes in an amount of 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, based on the total agent.

It is preferred according to the invention that the agents according to the invention are free of oxidation dye precursors. Oxidation dye precursors are classified into so-called developer components and coupler components. The developer components form the actual dyes under the influence of oxidizing agents or of atmospheric oxygen with one another or with coupling with one or more coupler components.

The formulation of the compositions according to the invention can be carried out in all forms customary for styling agents, for example in the form of solutions which can be applied to the hair as hair lotions or pump or aerosol spray, in the form of creams, emulsions, waxes, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions or other preparations suitable for use on the hair.

Hair creams and gels generally contain structurants and / or thickening polymers which serve to give the products the desired consistency. Structurants and / or thickening polymers are typically used in an amount of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total product. Amounts of 0.5 to 5 wt .-%, in particular 0.5 to 3 wt .-% are preferred.

The agents according to the invention are preferably used as pump spray, aerosol spray, pump foam or aerosol foam.

For this purpose, the agents according to the invention are packaged in a dispensing device, which is either an additionally filled with a propellant compressed gas container ("aerosol container") or a non-aerosol container.

The pressurized gas containers, with the aid of which a product is distributed by the internal gas pressure of the container via a valve, are defined as "aerosol containers". As a "nonaerosol container", a container under normal pressure is defined in reverse to the aerosol definition, with the aid of which a product is distributed by means of mechanical action by a pumping system.

With particular preference the agents according to the invention are packaged as aerosol hair foam or aerosol hair spray. The agent according to the invention (in particular the preferred embodiments (A) to (F) (vide supra)) therefore preferably additionally contains at least one propellant. Propellants which are suitable according to the invention are selected, for example, from N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ , air, alkanes having 3 to 5 carbon atoms, such as propane, n-butane, isobutane, n-pentane and isopentane, and mixtures thereof. Preference is given to dimethyl ether, propane, n-butane, isobutane and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, said alkanes, mixtures of said alkanes or mixtures of said alkanes with dimethyl ether are used as sole blowing agent. However, the invention expressly also includes the concomitant use of propellants of the type of chlorofluorocarbons, but in particular of fluorocarbons.

With regard to the quantity ratio of blowing agent to the other constituents of the preparations, the sizes of the aerosol droplets or of the foam bubbles and the respective size distribution can be set for a given spraying device.

The amount of blowing agent used varies depending on the specific composition of the composition, the packaging used and the desired product type, such as hair spray or hair foam. When using conventional spray devices, aerosol foam products preferably contain the blowing agent in amounts of from 1 to 35% by weight, based on the total product. Amounts of 2 to 30 wt .-%, in particular from 3 to 15 wt .-% are particularly preferred. Aerosol sprays generally contain larger amounts of propellant. Preferably, the blowing agent is used in this case in an amount of 30 to 98 wt .-%, based on the total product. Amounts of 40 to 95 wt .-%, in particular from 50 to 95 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

The aerosol products can be prepared in the usual way. As a rule, all constituents of the respective agent, with the exception of the propellant, are introduced into a suitable pressure-resistant container. This is then closed with a valve. By conventional techniques, finally, the desired amount of blowing agent is introduced.

For the foaming of gel-like agents in a two-chamber aerosol container isopentane is preferably suitable as a propellant, which is incorporated into the compositions according to the invention and is packaged in the first chamber of the two-chamber aerosol container. In the second chamber of the two-chamber aerosol container, at least one further propellant other than isopentane is made up, which builds up a higher pressure in the two-chamber aerosol container than the isopentane. The blowing agents of the second chamber are preferably selected from N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, C0 ₂ , air, alkanes having 3 or 4 carbon atoms (such as propane, n-butane, iso-butane) and mixtures thereof. A preferred embodiment of the agents according to the invention are aerosol hair foams or aerosol hair sprays containing the previously described inventive agent and at least one propellant.

Preferred inventive agents and blowing agents of the aerosol hair foam or aerosol hair spray, as well as the respective amounts of propellant correspond to those already mentioned above.

A second object of the invention is the use of the compositions according to the invention for the temporary deformation of hair and / or hair care.

The compositions according to the invention and products which contain these agents, in particular aerosol hair foams or aerosol hair sprays, are distinguished in particular by the fact that they give treated hair a very strong, lasting hairstyle hold, although the hair remains flexible. If the product is formulated as a hair foam, a stable, fine-pored and creamy foam forms, which can be distributed evenly and without dripping on the hair.

A third object of the invention is a method for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, wherein a means according to the first subject of the invention is foamed to a foam using a dispenser and the resulting foam is applied to the keratin-containing fibers.

It is inventively preferred that the keratin-containing fibers are brought into shape and this form is fixed by the means of the first subject of the invention.

Preferred according to the invention are the abovementioned dispensers (vide supra).

A fourth subject of the invention is a method for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, wherein an agent according to the first subject of the invention is applied as a spray to the keratin-containing fibers using a dispensing device.

Preferred according to the invention are the abovementioned dispensers (vide supra). Examples

Unless otherwise stated, the following quantities are by weight.

The following recipes were provided by mixing the specified raw materials:

INCI Nomenclature: Polyquaternium-10 (100% by weight of active substance in powder form, average molecular weight (M _w ) 400000) (DOW)

INCI Nomenclature: Acrylates / C1-2 Succinates / Hydroxy Acrylates Copolymer; 47% by weight of active substance in water (DOW)

Standardized hair strands of the company Kerling (Art. No. 827560) of the hair type "European Natural, Color 6/0" of a length (L _max ) of 220 mm and a weight of 0.6 g were used. For preparation, the strands were washed with a 12.5 wt .-% sodium laurethsulphat solution. The hair strands were dried overnight in a drying oven at 318K.

0.18 g of the compositions were applied to one strand of hair and massaged. The tress was then wound on a winder (Fripac-medis, 0 7mm, Art. No. D-1203) and dried overnight at room temperature.

The winder was carefully removed and the tress hung. The lengths of the curls were each measured (L ₀ ) and the strands placed in a climatic chamber. There they were stored at 294 K and a relative humidity of 85% over a period of 24 h and then measured again the lengths of the curls (L _t ).

Per test 5 test strands were treated and measured accordingly.

The high-humidity curl retention (HHCR) was calculated according to the following formula and for each composition the arithmetic mean was calculated from the HHCR values of the 5 test strands:

L - L,

HHCR = -

Anax ^_ 4 HHCR E1: 81%

HHCR V1: 60%

HHCR V2: 21%

The polymer combination of the agent E1 according to the invention (a total of 1.5% by weight of active substance in polymer) has a significantly higher HHCR than the same amount of polymer (1.5% by weight of active substance) of the particular polymer of the comparison compositions V1 and V2.

Claims

P a n t a n s p r e c h e

1. Cosmetic agent for the cosmetic treatment of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, containing in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

(a) at least one cellulose with cationic structural unit

and

(b) at least one copolymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (A1), at least one structural unit of the formula (A2) and at least one structural unit of the

Formula (A3),

wherein

R, R ³ and R ⁷ independently represent a hydrogen atom or a

Methyl group,

R ² is a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl group,

R ⁴ is a hydroxy (C ₂ to C ₆ ) alkyl group.

Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the celluloses having a cationic structural unit have an average molecular weight (M _w ) of from 10,000 g / mol to 50,000,000 g / mol, in particular from 100,000 g / mol to 5,000,000 g / mol, particularly preferably from 200,000 g / mol to 1,000,000 g / mol.

Composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the celluloses are selected with cationic structural unit of at least one (C ₂ to C ₄ ) - hydroxyalkylcellulose compound having at least one cationic structural unit.

Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the celluloses are selected with cationic structural unit of at least one hydroxyethyl cellulose compound having at least one cationic structural unit

Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the cationic structural unit comprises the group 2-hydroxy-3- (trimethylammonio) propoxy, which binds to said cellulose backbone.

Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the cellulose with cationic structural unit Polyquaternium 10 and / or Polyquaternium 67 is.

Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the said celluloses of the component (a) in an amount of 0.05 wt .-% to 8.0 wt .-%, preferably from 0, 1 wt .-% to 5.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.2 to 2.5% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the composition. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the copolymer of component (b) comprises, in addition to the abovementioned structural units, at least one structural unit of the formula (A4),

R represents a hydrogen atom or a group ^* -C-OR

O

in which R ^{5 represents} a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ to C ₆ ) -alkyl group,

R 'represents a hydrogen atom or a group ^* CH ₂ -C-OR ⁸

O

wherein R ^{8 represents} a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ to C ₆ ) -alkyl group,

R is a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ to C ₆ ) -alkyl group,

with the proviso that only one of the groups R or R 'is a hydrogen atom.

9. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the copolymer of component (b) in addition to the abovementioned structural units comprises at least one structural unit of the formula (A4),

wherein

R ⁵ and R ⁶ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ -C ₆ ) -alkyl group.

10. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that at least one copolymer of component (b) is contained, comprising structural units of the formula (A1) wherein R is a methyl group and R ^{2 is} a methyl group, and structural units of Formula (A1) wherein R is a hydrogen atom and R ^{2 is} a butyl group (especially an n-butyl group), and structural units of the formula (A2) wherein R ^{3 is} a methyl group and R ^{4 is} a 2-hydroxyethyl group and structural units of Formula (A3) wherein R ^{7 is} a methyl group at least one Structural unit of the formula (A2) and at least one structural unit of the formula (A3), and at least one structural unit of the formula (A4-1),

11. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that said copolymers of component (b) in an amount of 0.05 wt .-% to 8.0 wt .-%, preferably from 0, 1 wt .-% to 5.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.2 to 2.5 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the composition, are included.

12. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 1 1, characterized in that it additionally contains at least one alkanolamine.

13. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 for the temporary deformation of hair and / or hair care.

14. A process for the treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, wherein, using a dispenser, an agent of any one of claims 1 to 12 is foamed to a foam and the resulting foam is applied to the keratin fibers.

15. A method for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, wherein an agent according to any one of claims 1 to 12 is applied as a spray on the keratin-containing fibers using a dispenser.