EP2323615A2

EP2323615A2 - Product for keratin-containing fibres comprising at least one specific amphiphilic, cationic polymer, and at least one polyol

Info

Publication number: EP2323615A2
Application number: EP09780869A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Thorsten Knappe; Marcus Noll
Original assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Current assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date: 2008-08-18
Filing date: 2009-07-21
Publication date: 2011-05-25
Also published as: WO2010020498A3; WO2010020498A2; US20110135590A1; DE102008038112A1

Abstract

The invention relates to a product for treating keratin-containing fibres, especially human hair, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier: (a) at least one amphiphilic, cationic polymer, respectively comprising at least one structural unit of formulae (I), (II) (III) and (IV), wherein R1 and R4 are independently a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, X1 and X2 are independently an oxygen atom or an NH group, A1 and A2 are independently an ethane-1,2-diyl, propane-1,3-diyl or butane-1,4-diyl group, R2, R3, R5 and R6 are independently a (C1-C4)-alkyl group, R7 is a (C8-C30)-alkyl group, and (b) at least one polyol. The invention also relates to the use of said product for temporary hair styling and for hair care, especially in the form of a hair cream or a hair gel.

Description

"Agent for keratin-containing fibers containing at least one specific amphiphilic cationic polymer and at least one polyol"

The present invention relates to hair treatment compositions containing a combination of at least one specific amphiphilic cationic polymer with at least one polyol, the use of these agents for the temporary shaping and / or care of keratin-containing fibers and hair gels based on these agents.

In principle, all animal hair, e.g. Wool, horsehair, angora hair, furs, feathers and products or textiles made from them. Preferably, however, the keratinic fibers are human hairs.

An attractive-looking hairstyle is now generally considered an indispensable part of a well-groomed appearance. Due to current fashion trends, hairstyles are always considered to be chic, which in many hair types can only be built up using firming agents or can be maintained for a longer period of time up to several days. Therefore, hair treatment agents that serve a permanent or temporary shaping of the hair play an important role. Temporary shapes that should give a good hold, without affecting the healthy appearance of the hair, such as their gloss, can be achieved for example by hair sprays, hair waxes, hair gels, hair mousses, hair drier, etc.

Corresponding temporary shaping agents usually contain synthetic polymers as the shaping component. Preparations containing a dissolved or dispersed polymer can be applied to the hair by means of propellant gases or by a pumping mechanism. In particular, however, hair gels and hair waxes are generally not applied directly to the hair, but distributed by means of a comb or hands in the hair. The most important property of a composition for the temporary deformation of keratinic fibers, also referred to below as styling agent, is to give the treated fibers in the produced form the strongest possible hold. If the keratin fibers are human hair, it is also referred to as a strong hairstyle or the high degree of retention of the styling agent. The hairstyle hold is essentially determined by the type and amount of the synthetic polymer used, but also an influence of the other constituents of the styling agent may be given. In addition to a high degree of hold, styling agents must meet a whole range of other requirements. These can be roughly in properties on the hair, Properties of the particular formulation, eg properties of the foam, of the gel or sprayed aerosol, and of properties relating to the handling of the styling agent, whereby the properties of the hair are of particular importance. Particularly noteworthy are moisture resistance, low tackiness and a balanced conditioning effect. Furthermore, a styling agent should be universally applicable as possible for all hair types. In order to meet the different requirements, a large number of synthetic polymers has already been developed, which are used in styling agents. The polymers can be subdivided into cationic, anionic, nonionic and amphoteric film-forming and / or setting polymers. Ideally, when applied to hair, the polymers give a polymer film which, on the one hand, gives the hairstyle strong hold but, on the other hand, is sufficiently flexible not to break under stress. If the polymer film is too brittle, it results in the formation of so-called Filmpiaken, that is residues that detach during the movement of the hair and give the impression that the user of the corresponding styling agent would dandruff. Developing styling agents that have all the desired properties in combination is still difficult. In particular, this applies to the combination of strong grip on the one hand and flexible grip on the other. To impart a strong hold, the fixing polymer must adhere well to the keratinous fiber and form a sufficiently hard film. Nevertheless, the resulting polymer film does not give the fiber collective tactility of a board but allows the fibers a degree of flexibility without losing the imprinted shape of the fiber collective, ie, a hairstyle.

It was therefore an object of the present invention to provide a means for the temporary deformation of keratinic fibers, which is characterized by a high degree of retention and nevertheless maintains flexibility for the fibers and does not form film patches.

It has now surprisingly been found that this can be achieved by a combination of a specific polymer with at least one polyol. The combination of active substances according to the invention produces an excellent combination of strong hold and flexible shaping.

A first subject of the present invention are therefore agents for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

(a) at least one amphiphilic, cationic polymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (I), at least one structural unit of the formula (II), at least one structural unit of the formula (III) and at least one structural unit of the formula (IV), wherein

R ¹ and R ⁴ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, X ¹ and X ² independently of one another represent an oxygen atom or a group NH, A ¹ and A ² independently of one another represent a group of ethane-1,2-diyl, Propane-1, 3-diyl or butane-1, 4-diyl,

R ² , R ³ , R ⁵ and R ⁶ independently of one another represent a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, R ⁷ represents a (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) -alkyl group and

(b) at least one polyol.

According to the above formulas and all following formulas, a chemical bond marked with the symbol * stands for a free valency of the corresponding structural fragment.

To compensate for the positive polymer charge serve all possible physiologically acceptable

Anions, such as, for example, chloride, bromide, hydrogensulfate, methylsulfate, ethylsulfate,

Tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate,

Triflate.

Examples of (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl groups according to the invention are methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl,

Butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl.

Examples of (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) -alkyl groups according to the invention are octyl (capryl), decyl (caprinyl),

Dodecyl (lauryl), tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl (stearyl), eicosyl (arachyl),

Docosyl (behenyl).

The properties of the agent according to the invention prove to be particularly advantageous when present in gel form. This preferred form of packaging will be described later in detail.

According to the invention, subsequent amphiphilic cationic polymers are preferably used in the agents according to the invention if the amphiphilic cationic polymers fulfill one or more of the following characteristics:

R ¹ and R ⁴ each represent a methyl group, X ¹ stands for a group NH,

X ² stands for a group NH,

A ¹ and A ² are each independently ethane-1, 2-diyl or propane-1, 3-diyl,

R ² , R ³ , R ⁵ and R ⁶ independently of one another represent methyl or ethyl, (particularly preferably methyl),

R ⁷ is a (C ₁₀ to C ₂₎ -alkyl group, in particular decyl (caprinyl), undecyl,

Dodecyl (lauryl), tridecyl, tetradecyl (myristyl), pentadecyl, hexadecyl (cetyl),

Octadecyl (stearyl), eicosyl (arachyl) or docosyl (behenyl).

It is preferred according to the invention to select the structural unit of the formula (III) from at least one structural unit of the formula (III-1) to (III-S)

(| _M. ₃₎ _NMe2 (Hi _-4)

(| _M. ₇ ) (||| _ ₈ ) _.

In addition, it has proved to be particularly preferred to choose as the structural unit of the formula (III) the structural unit of the formula (III-7) and / or of the formula (III-8). The structural unit of the formula (III-8) is according to the invention a very particularly preferred structural unit. Furthermore, in view of achieving the object, it has been found preferable, when the structural unit of the formula (IV) is selected, to consist of at least one structural unit of the formulas (IV-1) to (IV-8) VI-4)

(VI-8), wherein each R ⁷ is a (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) alkyl group.

In turn, particularly preferred structural unit of the formula (IV) are the structural units of the formula (IV-7) and / or the formula (IV-8), wherein in each case R ⁷ is octyl (capryl), decyl (caprinyl), dodecyl (lauryl ), Tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl (stearyl), eicosyl (arachyl) or docosyl (behenyl). The structural unit of the formula (IV-8) represents according to the invention a very particularly preferred structural unit of the formula (IV).

A very particularly preferred amphiphilic, cationic polymer comprises the following structural units of the formulas (I), (II), (III-8) and (IV-8)

wherein R ⁷ is a (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) alkyl group (especially octyl (capryl), decyl (caprinyl), dodecyl (lauryl), tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl (stearyl), eicosyl ( Arachyl) or docosyl (behenyl)). The amphiphilic, cationic polymers according to the invention preferably have a molecular weight of from 10,000 g / mol to 50,000,000 g / mol, in particular from 50,000 g / mol to 5,000,000 g / mol, more preferably from 75,000 g / mol to 1,000,000 g / mol.

A very particularly preferred amphiphilic, cationic polymer according to the invention is the copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-vinylcaprolactam, N- (3-dimethylaminopropyl) methacrylamide and 3- (methacryloylamino) propyl-lauryl-dimethylammonium chloride (INCI name:

Polyquaternium-69) containing 300 (for example, under the trade name Aqua Style ^® marketed 28-32 wt .-% of active substance in ethanol-water mixture) by the company ISP.

Preferred agents according to the invention comprise the amphiphilic cationic polymers described above in an amount of 0.05% by weight to 15.0% by weight, particularly preferably of 0.05% by weight to 10.0% by weight. %, very particularly preferably from 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the composition.

Furthermore, the agent according to the invention contains at least one polyol in addition to the previously defined amphiphilic, cationic polymers.

Agents preferred in the context of the invention comprise the polyols in an amount of from 0.05% by weight to 15.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05% by weight to 10.0% by weight, very particularly preferably from 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the composition.

The polymers (a) and the polyols (b) according to the invention are preferably in a molar ratio

[Polymer (a) to polyol (b)] of 1 to 50 to 50 to 1, in particular from 1 to 30 to 30 to 1, most preferably from 1 to 10 to 10 to 1, used.

It is inventively preferred when the polyol at 25 ⁰ C and a pressure of 1 atm is a solid.

Preferred polyols furthermore have a chemical structure which is composed exclusively of carbon atoms, hydrogen atoms and oxygen atoms and has a hydrocarbon skeleton to which at least three hydroxyl groups (in particular four hydroxy groups) bind. In turn, preferably the oxygen atoms bind only as hydroxy groups (-OH) and / or as ether functionalities (-O-) to the hydrocarbon backbone.

According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the molecules of the polyols (b) per carbon atom of the hydrocarbon skeleton at least 0.8 hydroxyl groups, more preferably at least 0.9 hydroxy group, most preferably 1 hydroxy group. Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention if all the oxygen atoms present in the molecule of the linear, apliphatic polyol are in the form of hydroxyl groups.

In addition, in the context of the invention, such polyols (b) have proven to be preferred, their molar carbon to oxygen ratio in the range from 0.8 to 1.5, in particular in

Range from 0.9 to 1.2, most preferably 1.

However, it has been found preferable that when the molar ratio of

Carbon atoms to oxygen atoms in the molecule of the polyol (b) is 1, the molar

Ratio of hydrogen atoms to oxygen atoms in the molecule of the polyol (b) is greater than 2.

It is preferred according to the invention if the polyol (b) is selected from the group consisting of sorbitol, inositol, xylitol, mannitol, gluconolactone, glucuronic acid, 1, 2,6-hexanetriol, hydroxyethylsorbitol, phytantriol, hydroxypropylphenyltriol, lactitol, maltitol , Pentaerythritol, polyglycerol-3, glucose, lactose, maltose, polyglycerol-4, polyglycerol-6, polyglycerol-10, polyglycerol-20, polyglycerol-40, tripropylene glycol. It is particularly preferred according to the invention if the polyol (b) is selected from the group consisting of sorbitol, inositol, xylitol, mannitol, hydroxyethylsorbitol, phytantriol, hydroxypropylphenyltriol, lactitol, maltitol, pentaerythritol, polyglycerol-3, polyglycerol-4, Polyglycerol-6, polyglycerol-10, polyglycerin-20, polyglycerin-40. A most preferred polyol (b) is sorbitol.

A most preferred agent contains in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

(a) at least one amphiphilic, cationic polymer comprising the following structural units of the formulas (I), (II), (III-8) and (IV-8)

wherein R ⁷ is a (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) alkyl group (especially octyl (capryl), decyl (caprinyl), dodecyl (lauryl), tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl (stearyl), eicosyl ( Arachyl) or docosyl (behenyl)), and (b) sorbitol. In addition to the amphiphilic cationic polymer (a) and the polyol (b), the composition according to the invention additionally contains at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer (c) in addition to the amphiphilic cationic polymer (a). The latter is different from the polymer (a).

Among the preferred properties of the film-forming polymers is the film formation. Film-forming polymers are polymers which leave a continuous film on the skin, the hair or the nails when drying. Such film formers can be used in a wide variety of cosmetic products, such as for example face masks, make-up, hair fixatives, hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair treatments, shampoos or nail varnishes. Particular preference is given to polymers which have a sufficient solubility in water or water / alcohol mixtures in order to be present in completely completely dissolved form in the agent according to the invention. The film-forming polymers may be of synthetic or natural origin.

According to the invention, film-forming polymers are understood as meaning polymers which, when used in 0.01 to 20% strength by weight aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution, are capable of depositing a transparent polymer film on the hair.

Firming polymers contribute to the maintenance and / or build-up of the hair volume and hair fullness of the overall hairstyle. These polymers are at the same time also film-forming polymers and therefore generally typical substances for shaping hair treatment agents such as hair fixatives, hair foams, hair waxes, hair sprays. The film formation can be quite selective and connect only a few fibers.

As a test method for the firming effect of a polymer, the so-called curl retention test is often used.

Since polymers are often multifunctional, that is, show several applications-wise desirable effects, numerous polymers can be found in several groups on the mode of action, as well as in the CTFA Handbook.

The composition of the invention preferably comprises at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer selected from at least one polymer of the group formed from non-ionic polymers, cationic polymers, amphoteric polymers, zwitterionic polymers and anionic polymers.

The additional film-forming and / or setting polymers are in the agent according to the invention preferably in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5 wt .-% to 15 wt .-%, very particularly preferably from 2.0% by weight to 10.0% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the agent, included. These quantities also apply to all subsequent preferred types of film-forming and / or setting polymers which can be used in the compositions according to the invention. If differing preferred quantities have been specified below, the latter are considered to be even more preferred amounts.

According to the invention, particular preference is given to those agents which, in addition to the previously defined amphiphilic cationic polymers, additionally comprise at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer which is selected from at least one polymer of the group formed from nonionic polymers based on ethylenically unsaturated monomers, in particular homopolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, nonionic copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, homopolymers and nonionic copolymers of N-vinylcaprolactam,

Copolymers of (meth) acrylamide,

Polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl acetate, chitosan and derivatives of chitosan, cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic copolymers of 3- (C 1 -C ₆ ) -alkyl-1-vinylimidazolinium, homopolymers and copolymers containing the structural unit of the formula (M-1)

in the are selected from (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl, (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkenyl or (C ₂ to C ₄ ) -hydroxyalkyl groups, p = 1, 2, 3 or 4, q is a natural number and X ^"is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, anionic polymers having carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups, anionic polyurethanes.

Nonionic polymers based on ethylenically unsaturated monomers which are suitable as an additional film-forming and / or setting polymer are those nonionic polymers which comprise at least one of the following structural units

(M4) (M8) where

R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

R 'represents a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) acyl group,

R "and R""independently represent a (C ₁ to C ₇ ) alkyl group or a

Hydrogen atom

R '"represents a linear or branched (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl group or a (C ₂ to C ₄ ) -

Hydroxyalkyl.

Preferred nonionic film-forming and / or nonionic hair-fixing polymers are homopolymers or copolymers composed of at least one of the following monomers: vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters such as vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide , Alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, wherein in each case the alkyl groups of these monomers are selected from (C ₁ to C ₃ ) alkyl groups.

Nonionic polymers based on ethylenically unsaturated monomers which are particularly suitable for the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one of the following structural units

wherein

R 'represents a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ to C ₃₀ ) acyl group, in particular a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group.

Particularly suitable are homopolymers of vinyl caprolactam or vinyl pyrrolidone (such as Luviskol ^® K 90 or Luviskol ^® K 85 from BASF SE), (copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate such as those sold under the trademark Luviskol ^® VA 37, Luviskol ^® VA 55, Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73 are sold by the company BASF SE), terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and vinyl propionate, polyacrylamides (such as For example Akypomine ^® P 191 (from the company CHEM-Y), polyvinyl alcohols which (for example under the sold by Air Products 523/540 tradenames Elvanol.RTM ^® from DuPont or Vinol ^®), terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, methacrylamide and vinylimidazole such as Luviset.RTM ^® Clear from BASF SE) company.

In addition to the nonionic polymers based on ethylenically unsaturated monomers, nonionic cellulose derivatives are also suitable for use as film-forming and / or setting polymers which are preferably selected from methylcellulose and in particular from cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropylcellulose (eg hydroxypropylcellulose with a molecular weight of 30,000 to 50,000 g / mol, which is marketed for example under the trade name Nisso Sl ^® from Lehmann & Voss, Hamburg), hydroxyethyl cellulose, such as (e.g., under the trademark Culminal® ^® and Benecel ^® AQUALON) and Natrosol ^® - Types (Hercules) are distributed.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that the film-forming and / or setting polymer is a non-ionic polymer selected from homopolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and / or from copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone. Means comprising as film-forming nonionic and / or setting nonionic polymer at least one polymer selected from the group formed from

Polyvinylpyrrolidone (most preferred),

Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl esters of carboxylic acids having 2 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate,

Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and N-vinylimidazole and methacrylamide, copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and N-vinylimidazole and acrylamide, copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone with N, N-di (Ci to C ₄₎ alkylamino (C ₂ to C ₄ ) - Alkylacrylamid, are very particularly preferred according to the invention.

A particularly preferred composition comprises in a cosmetically acceptable carrier (a) at least one amphiphilic cationic polymer comprising the following structural units of the formulas (I), (II), (III-8) and (IV-8)

(IV-8) wherein R ⁷ is a (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) alkyl group (especially octyl (capryl), decyl (caprinyl), dodecyl (lauryl), tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl (stearyl), eicosyl ( Arachyl) or docosyl (behenyl)), and

(b) at least one polyol and

(C) polyvinylpyrrolidone.

A very particularly preferred composition comprises in a cosmetically acceptable carrier (a) at least one amphiphilic, cationic polymer comprising the following structural units of the formulas (I), (II), (III-8) and (IV-8)

wherein R ⁷ is a (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) alkyl group (especially octyl (capryl), decyl (caprinyl), dodecyl (lauryl), tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl (stearyl), eicosyl ( Arachyl) or docosyl (behenyl)), and

(b) sorbitol and

(c) polyvinylpyrrolidone.

Cationic polymers are to be understood as meaning polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which may be "temporary" or "permanent" cationic. According to the invention, "permanently cationic" refers to those polymers which have a cationic group, irrespective of the pH of the agent. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. In particular, those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C 1-4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable. A cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer which is preferably suitable according to the invention is at least one cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer which contains at least one structural element of the formula (M9) and additionally at least one structural element of the formula (M 10)

wherein

R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

R ', R "and R" independently of one another represent a (C 1 to C ₃₀ ) -alkyl group,

X is an oxygen atom or a group NH,

A is an ethane-1,2-diyl group or a propane-1,3-diyl group, n is 1 or 3.

To compensate for the positive polymer charge are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.

Such compounds are, for example, as copolymers of quaternized with diethyl sulfate dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with vinyl pyrrolidone with the INCI name Polyquaternium-11 under the names Gafquat ^® 440, Gafquat ^® 734, Gafquat ^® 755 (each ISP), and Luviquat PQ 11 PN (BASF SE ) available in the stores.

Furthermore, according to the invention, the cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymers are particularly preferably selected from cationic, quaternized cellulose derivatives.

Further suitable cationic and / or setting polymers are preferably cationic, quaternized cellulose derivatives.

Such cationic, quaternized celluloses prove to be particularly advantageous for the purposes of the invention, which carry more than one permanent cationic charge in a side chain. Among these cationic celluloses, in turn, such cationic celluloses with the INCI name Polyquaternium-4 are particularly suitable, which, for example, among the Names Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat ^® L sold by National Starch 200th

Cationic polymers which are particularly preferably used in the context of the invention furthermore include those cationic film-forming and / or cationic consolidating copolymers which contain at least one structural element of the formula (M11)

in which

R is a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group, and additionally has at least one further cationic and / or nonionic structural element.

In turn, it is preferred according to the invention if, as additional cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer, at least one copolymer (d) is present, which in addition to at least one structural element of the formula (M11) additionally comprises a structural element of the formula (M6)

wherein

R is a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group.

To compensate for the positive polymer charge of the copolymers (d) are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.

Very particularly preferred cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymers as copolymers (d) contain 10 to 30 mol%, preferably 15 to 25 mol% and in particular 20 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (M1 1) and 70 to 90 mol .-%, preferably 75 to 85 mol .-% and in particular 80 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (M6).

It is particularly preferred if the copolymers (c1) in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (M11) and (M6) in the copolymer, a maximum of 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, Contain polymer units, which are due to the incorporation of other monomers. The copolymers (c1) are preferably composed exclusively of structural units of the formula (M11) where R "= methyl and (M6) and can be represented by the general formula (poly)

(PoIyI) describe, wherein the indices m and p vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units of the formula (M 11) and the formula (M6) can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner.

Is to compensate the positive charge of the polymer of formula (PoIyI) used a chloride ion, then these N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers are referred to as Polyquaternium-16, according to INCI Nomenclature and are, for example, from BASF under the trade names Luviquat ^® Style , Luviquat ^® FC 370, Luviquat ^® FC 550, Luviquat ^® FC 905 and Luviquat HM 552. ^® is used to compensate the positive charge of the polymer of formula (PoIyI) a methosulfate, these N-methylvinylimidazole will be / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-44 and are, for example, from BASF under the trade name Luviquat ^® Ultra Care.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention comprise a copolymer (c1), in particular of the formula (poly), which has molar masses within a certain range. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred in which the copolymer (c1) has a molecular weight of from 50 to 400 kDa, preferably from 100 to 300 kDa, more preferably from 150 to 250 kDa and in particular from 190 to 210 kDa.

In addition to the copolymer (s) (d) or at its site, the agents according to the invention may also contain copolymers (c2) which, starting from the copolymer (d), have structural units of the formula (M7) as additional structural units

Further particularly preferred agents according to the invention are thus characterized in that they contain as cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer at least one copolymer (c2), the at least one structural unit of formula (M11-a) and at least one structural unit of formula (M6) and contains at least further structural unit according to formula (M7)

,

Here, too, it is particularly preferred if the copolymers (c2) in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (M11-a), (M6) and (M7) in the copolymer, a maximum of 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1% by weight of polymer units due to incorporation of other monomers. Preferably, the copolymers (c2) are composed exclusively of structural units of the formulas (M11-a), (M6) and (M7) and can be represented by the general formula (Poly 2)

describe, wherein the indices m, n and p vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units of said formulas can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner.

To compensate for the positive polymer charge of component (c2) are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.

If a methosulfate is used to compensate for the positive charge of the polymer of the formula (Poly 2), such N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone / vinylcaprolactam copolymers are used according to INCI nomenclature referred to as Polyquarternium-46 and are available for example from BASF under the trade name Luviquat ^® Hold.

Very particularly preferred copolymers (c2) contain 1 to 20 mol%, preferably 5 to 15 mol% and in particular 10 mol% of structural units of the formula (M11-a) and 30 to 50 mol%, preferably 35 to 45 mol .-% and in particular 40 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (M6) and 40 to 60 mol .-%, preferably 45 to 55 mol .-% and in particular 60 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (M7).

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain a copolymer (c2) which has molecular weights within a certain range. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred in which the copolymer (c2) has a molecular weight of 100 to 1000 kDa, preferably from 250 to 900 kDa, more preferably from 500 to 850 kDa and in particular from 650 to 710 kDa.

In addition to the copolymer (s) (d) and / or (c2) or at its point, the agents according to the invention may also contain copolymers (c3) as structural units forming cationic and / or setting cationic polymers which contain structural units as structural units of the formulas (M11-a) and (M6), as well as further structural inhibitors from the group of the vinylimidazole units and further structural units from the group of the acrylamide and / or methacrylamide units.

Further particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as additional cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer at least one copolymer (c3), the at least one structural unit of formula (M11-a) and at least one structural unit of formula (M6) and contains at least one structural unit of formula (M10) and at least one structural unit of formula (M12)

(M12).

Here too, it is particularly preferred if the copolymers (c3) in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (M11-a), (M6), (M8) and (M12) in the copolymer, a maximum of 5 wt. -%, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, contain polymer units, which go back to the incorporation of other monomers. The copolymers (c3) are preferably composed exclusively of structural units of the formulas (M11-a), (M6), (M8) and (M 12) and can be represented by the general formula (Poly 3) describe, wherein the indices m, n, o and p vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units of the formulas (M 11-a), (M6), (M8) and (M 12) can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner.

To compensate for the positive polymer charge of component (c3) are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.

Is to compensate the positive charge of the polymer of formula (poly 3) a methosulfate be used refer to those N-MethylvinylimidazolΛ / inylpyrrolidonΛ / inylimidazol / methacrylamide copolymers, according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-68 and are, for example, from BASF under the tradename Luviquat ^® Supreme available.

Very particularly preferred copolymers (c3) contain 1 to 12 mol%, preferably 3 to 9 mol% and in particular 6 mol% of structural units of the formula (M11-a) and 45 to 65 mol%, preferably 50 to 60 mol .-% and in particular 55 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (M6) and 1 to 20 mol .-%, preferably 5 to 15 mol .-% and in particular 10 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (M8) and 20 to 40 mol .-%, preferably 25 to 35 mol .-% and in particular 29 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (M 12).

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain a copolymer (c3) which has molecular weights within a certain range. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred in which the copolymer (c3) has a molecular weight of 100 to 500 kDa, preferably from 150 to 400 kDa, more preferably from 250 to 350 kDa and in particular from 290 to 310 kDa.

Among the additional film-forming cationic and / or setting polymers selected from the cationic polymers having at least one structural element of the above formula (M11-a), preference is given to vinylpyrrolidone / i-vinyl-S-methyl-1H-imidazolium chloride copolymers (such as for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 under the trade names Luviquat ^® style, Luviquat ^® FC 370, Luviquat ^® FC 550, Luviquat ^® FC 905 and Luviquat ^® HM 552 (BASF SE)), vinyl pyrrolidone / i-vinyl-3- methyl-1H-imidazolium methylsulfate copolymers (such as, for example, the one with the INCI name Polyquaternium-44 under the trade name voltages Luviquat ^® Care (BASF SE)), vinylpyrrolidone / vinylcaprolactam / i-vinyl-3-methyl-I H-imidazolium terpolymer (such as for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-46 under the trade names Luviquat ^® Care or Luviquat ^® Hold (BASF SE)), vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamide / vinylimidazole / i-vinyl-S-methyl-I H-imidazoliummethylsulfat- copolymer (for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-68 ^® under the trade name Luviquat Supreme (BASF SE)), and mixtures of these polymers.

Other cationic polymers which can preferably be used in the agents according to the invention are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group which, at certain pH values, is present as quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic. These polymers include, for example, chitosans. Chitosan and / or chitosan derivatives are very particularly preferably suitable film-forming and / or setting polymers in the context of the present invention. Chitosans are biopolymers and are counted among the group of hydrocolloids. Chemically, these are partially deacetylated chitins of different molecular weight. Preferably used are those having an average molecular weight of 800,000 to 1,200,000 daltons, a Brookfield viscosity (1% by weight in glycolic acid) below 5000 mPas, a degree of deacetylation in the range of 80 to 88%, and a Have ash content of less than 0.3 wt .-%. In addition to the chitosans as typical cationic biopolymers, cationically derivatized chitosans (such as, for example, quaternization products) or alkoxylated chitosans are also suitable for the purposes of the invention.

Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise as chitosan derivative (s) neutralization products of chitosan with at least one acid selected from lactic acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, nicotinic acid, hydroxyisobutyric acid, hydroxyisovaleric acid or mixtures of these neutralization products. Suitable chitosan (derivatives) are, for example, under the trade names Hydagen ^® CMF (1 wt .-% active ingredient in aqueous solution with 0.4 wt .-% glycolic acid, molecular weight 500000 to 5000000 g / mol Cognis), Hydagen ^® HCMF (chitosan (80%) deacetylated), molecular weight 50,000 to 1,000,000 g / mol, Cognis), Kytamer ^® PC (80 wt .-% of active substance of chitosan (INCI designation pyrolidoncarboxylat: chitosan PCA), Amerchol) and Chitolam ^® NB / 101 commercially freely available.

The chitosan or its derivatives are preferred in the inventive compositions in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.01 wt .-% to 10.0 wt .-%, completely particularly preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the composition according to the invention.

As in the context of the invention preferably suitable temporary cationic polymers are also those which have at least one structural unit of the formulas (M 1-1) to (M 1-8) (M 1-4)

In turn, those copolymers are preferred which contain at least one structural unit of the formulas (M1-1) to (M1-8) and additionally at least one structural unit of the formula (M10),

(M10) where n is 1 or 3.

Again, the group of polymers applies

- vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (for example, INCI name: Vinyl caprolactam / PVP / di-methylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Gaffix ^® under the trade name VC 713 ISP)),

- VinylpyrrolidonΛ / inylcaprolactam / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymer (for example, INCI name: VP / vinyl caprolactam / DMAPA acrylates copolymer under the trade name Aquaflex ^® SF-40 (ISP)),

Vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (for example as a 35-39% solids in ethanol in the form of the commercial product Advantage LC E with the INCI name: vinyl caprolactam / VP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, alcohol, lauryl pyrrolidone (ISP)),

Vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymer (for example INCI name: VP / DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer under the trade name Styleze CC-10 (ISP)), as a preferred list for selection. The compositions of the invention may also contain at least one amphoteric polymer as a film-forming and / or setting polymer. The term amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which in the molecule have quaternary ammonium groups and -COO ^' or -SO ₃ ^' groups, and those polymers comprising -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.

One example of an inventively amphopolymer suitable is the acrylic resin commercially available as Amphomer ^®, which is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, Methacrylic acid and their simple alkyl esters.

The latter have in addition to the cationogenic group or positively charged group at least one negatively charged group in the molecule and are also referred to as zwitterionic polymers. The amphoteric polymers are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total composition. Quantities of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are very particularly preferred.

Furthermore, at least one anionic film-forming and / or anionic setting polymer can be used as the film-forming and / or setting polymers.

The anionic polymers are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups. Examples of anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.

Within this embodiment, it may be preferable to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer. With regard to the anionic monomers, reference is made to the substances listed above. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.

Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group wholly or partly as Sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt is present. This copolymer may also be crosslinked, with crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylenebisacrylamide are used. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ^® 305 from SEPPIC. The use of this compound, which in addition to the polymer component contains a hydrocarbon mixture (Ci ₃ -Ci ₄ -lsoparaffin) and a nonionic emulsifier (laureth-7), has proved to be particularly advantageous in the context of the teaching of the invention.

Also sold under the name Simulgel ^® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate 80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proven to be particularly effective according to the invention.

Likewise preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ^® commercially.

Other preferred anionic polymers are selected from the group that is formed

- copolymers of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid (as 60 wt .-%, for example, as a commercial product Aristoflex ^® A 60 with the INCI name VA / Crotonates Copolymer by CIBA in a - marketed dispersion in isopropanol-water)

- copolymer of ethyl acrylate and methacrylic acid (such as, for example, under the trade name Luviflex ^® Soft having an acid number from 84 to 105 under the INCI name of Acrylates Copolymer in an about 20 to 30 wt .-% dispersion in water by BASF SE to be expelled),

- Polyurethanes having at least one carboxyl group (such as a copolymer of isophthalic acid, adipic acid, 1, 6-hexanediol, neopentyl glycol and isophorone diisocyanate as sold under the trade name Luviset PUR with the INCI name Polyurethane-1 from BASF SE).

If, in particular, strongly thickening anionic polymers are used, care should again be taken in a preferred embodiment to ensure that the aforementioned preferred viscosity criterion of the agents according to the invention is adhered to.

Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers. A 1, 9-decadiene crosslinked maleic acid-methyl vinyl ether copolymer is available under the name ^® Stabileze QM. In order to intensify the effect according to the invention, the agents according to the invention preferably additionally contain at least one surfactant, nonionic, anionic, cationic, ampholytic surfactants being suitable in principle. The group of ampholytic or amphoteric surfactants includes zwitterionic surfactants and ampholytes. The surfactants according to the invention may already have emulsifying activity.

The additional surfactants are in the inventive composition preferably in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.05 wt .-% to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the Weight of the agent, included.

It has proved to be particularly preferred if the agents according to the invention additionally comprise at least one nonionic surfactant.

Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, one

Polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and Polyglykolethergruppe.

Such compounds are, for example

Addition products of 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group , end-capped adducts of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear or branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, with fatty acids containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, with a methyl or C ₂ -C ₆ -alkyl radical. Atoms and alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as the available under the sales names Dehydol ^® LS, Dehydol ^® LT (Cognis) types, C ₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol,

Addition products of 5 to 60 mol ethylene oxide onto castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, polyol fatty acid esters, such as the commercial product Hydagen ^® HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol - types (Cognis), alkoxylated triglycerides, alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of formula (E4-I), R ¹ CO- ( OCH ₂ CHR ² ) _W OR ³ (E4-I) in the R ¹ CO for a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen or methyl, R ^{3 is} linear or branched alkyl radicals with 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w stands for numbers from 1 to 20, amine oxides, hydroxy mixed ethers, as described, for example, in DE-OS 19738866, Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,

Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,

Addition products of ethylene oxide to fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,

Sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type of formula (E4-II), in the R ^{4 is} an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a

Sugar residue with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p stands for numbers from 1 to 10.

The alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids with in each case 2 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid have proven to be very particularly preferred nonionic surfactants. Preparations with excellent properties are also obtained when they contain as nonionic surfactants C ₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol and / or addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil ,

Suitable anionic surfactants are in principle all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group, linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms (Soap),

Ethercarbonsäuren the formula RO- (CH2-CH2θ) _χ -CH2-COOH, in which R is a linear

Alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,

Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- and -dialkylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and

Sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,

Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, - Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12, mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates, sulfated Hydroxyalkylpolyethylen- and / or Hydroxyalkylenpropylenglykolether, sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds, esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols, the addition products of about 2- 15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 Represent C atoms, sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula (E 1 -II)

R ⁷ CO (Aiko) _n SO ₃ M (E1-II) in which R ⁷ CO is a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl group containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Alk is CH ₂ CH _2, CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or CH ₂ CHCH ₃ , n is a number from 0.5 to 5 and M is a cation, as described in DE-OS 197 36 906, amide ether carboxylic acids,

Condensation products of C ₈ - C ₃₀ - fatty alcohols with protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids and their derivatives, which are known to the skilled person as protein fatty acid condensates, such as Lamepon ^® - types Gluadin ^® - types Hostapon ^® KCG or Amisoft ^® - types.

Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester with 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, monoglyceride disulfates, alkyl and alkenyl ether phosphates and protein fatty acid condensates.

Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which carry in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ⁽⁾ or -SO ₃ ⁽⁾ group. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammoniumglycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammoniumglycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytes are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkyl or -acyl group in the molecule, have at least one free amino group and at least contain a -COOH or -SO ₃ H group and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytes are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytes are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acylsarcosine.

The compositions according to the invention contain the ingredients or active substances in a cosmetically acceptable carrier. Preferred cosmetically acceptable carriers are aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic media with preferably at least 10% by weight of water, based on the total agent. As alcohols, it is possible in particular to include the lower alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms usually used for cosmetic purposes, such as, for example, ethanol and isopropanol.

As additional co-solvents, organic solvents or a mixture of solvents with a boiling point below 400 ⁰ C in an amount of 0.1 to 15 weight percent, preferably from 1 to 10 weight percent be present on the total composition. Particularly suitable as additional co-solvents are unbranched or branched hydrocarbons such as pentane, hexane, isopentane and cyclic hydrocarbons such as cyclopentane and cyclohexane. Further, particularly preferred water-soluble solvents are glycerol, ethylene glycol and propylene glycol in an amount of up to 30% by weight, based on the total agent.

In particular, the addition of glycerol and / or propylene glycol and / or polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol increases the flexibility of the polymer film formed when the agent according to the invention is used. Thus, if a flexible hold is desired, the compositions according to the invention preferably contain from 0.01 to 30% by weight of glycerol and / or propylene glycol and / or polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol, based on the total agent.

The agents preferably have a pH of 2 to 11. The pH range between 2 and 8 is particularly preferred. The pH value in the context of this document refers to the pH at 25 ^° C., unless stated otherwise.

The compositions of the invention may further contain the auxiliaries and additives which are usually added to conventional styling. As suitable auxiliaries and additives in particular additional care substances are mentioned. As a care substance according to the invention preferably at least one silicone oil and / or at least one silicone gum is used. Silicone oils or silicone gums which are suitable according to the invention are in particular dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes, for example dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, and also their alkoxylated, quaternized or else anionic derivatives. Preference is given to cyclic and linear polydialkylsiloxanes, their alkoxylated and / or aminated derivatives, dihydroxypoly-dimethylsiloxanes and polyphenylalkylsiloxanes.

Silicone oils cause a wide variety of effects. For example, at the same time they influence the dry and wet combability, the grip of dry and wet hair and the shine. The term silicone oils is understood by the person skilled in the art as meaning several structures of silicon-organic compounds. Initially, this is understood to mean the dimethiconols.

Examples of such products include the following commercial products: Botanisil NU-150M (Botanigenics), Dow Coming 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9026 Fluid, Ultrapure Dimethiconol (Ultra Chemical), Unisil SF- R (Universal Preserve), X-21-5619 (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co.), Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Speciales), ACC DL-9430 Emulsion (Taylor Chemical Company), AEC Dimethiconol & Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate (A & E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics) Ltd.), BC Dimethiconol Emulsion 95 (Basildon Chemical Company, Ltd.), Cosmetic Fluid 1401, Cosmetic Fluid 1403, Cosmetic Fluid 1501, Cosmetic Fluid 1401 DC (all aforementioned Chemsil Silicones, Inc.), Dow Corning 1401 Fluid, Dow Corning 1403 Fluid, Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend (all aforementioned Dow Corning Corporation), Dub Gel Sl 1400 (Stearinerie Dubois FiIs), HVM 4852 Emulsion (Crompton Corporation), Jeesilc 6056 (Jeen International Corporation), Lubrasil, Lubrasil DS (both Guardian Laboratories), Nonychosine E, Nonychosine V (both exsymol), SanSurf Petrolatum-25, Satin Finish (both Collaborative Laboratories, Inc.), Silatex-D30 (Cosmetic Ingredient Resources), Silsoft 148 , Silsoft E-50, Silsoft E-623 (all aforementioned Crompton Corporation), SM555, SM2725, SM2765, SM2785 (all aforementioned GE Silicones), Taylor T-SiI CD-1, Taylor TME-4050E (all Taylor Chemical Company Wacker-Belsil CM 3092, Wacker-Belsil CM 5040, Wacker-Belsil DM 3096, Wacker-Belsil DM 3112 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 8005 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 60081 VP (all Wacker-Chemie GmbH mentioned above).

Dimethicones form the second group of silicones which may be present according to the invention. These may be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Dimethicone copolyols form another group of silicones that are suitable. Corresponding dimethicone copolyols are commercially available and are sold, for example, by Dow Corning under the name Dow ^Corning® 5330 Fluid. Of course, the teaching according to the invention also encompasses the fact that the dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolymers can already be present as an emulsion. When the dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols are used as emulsion, the droplet size of the emulsified particles is according to the invention 0.01 to 10000 microns, preferably 0.01 to 100 .mu.m, more preferably 0.01 to 20 microns and most preferably 0 , 01 to 10 μm. The particle size is determined by the method of light scattering.

Particularly suitable silicones are amino-functional silicones, in particular the silicones, which are summarized under the INCI name Amodimethicone. It is therefore preferred according to the invention if the agents according to the invention additionally contain at least one amino-functional silicone. These are silicones which have at least one, optionally substituted, amino group. These silicones are referred to as amodimethicone according to the INCI nomenclature and are available for example in the form of an emulsion as a commercial product Dow Corning ^® 939 or as a commercial product Dow Corning ^® 949 in a mixture with a cationic and a nonionic surfactant.

Preferably, those amino-functional silicones are used which have an amine number above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and especially preferably above 0.4 meq / g. The amine number stands for the milliequivalents of amine per gram of the amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and also expressed in mg KOH / g.

The agents contain the silicones or silicone gums preferably in amounts of from 0.01% by weight to 15% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight, based on the total agent.

As a conditioner of another class of compounds, the agent may optionally contain at least one protein hydrolyzate and / or one of its derivatives. The protein hydrolysates are present in the agents according to the invention, for example, in concentrations of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight, and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0 , 05 wt .-% up to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total application preparation included.

As a care substance, the agent according to the invention may further comprise at least one vitamin, a provitamin, a vitamin precursor and / or one of their derivatives.

According to the invention, such vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H. The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others, vitamin B ₁ (thiamine), vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin), vitamin B ₃ (nicotinic acid and / or nicotinic acid amide (Niacinamide)), vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone), vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal). Further representatives of the above-mentioned vitamins are vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin E (tocopherols, in particular α-tocopherol), vitamin F (linoleic acid and / or linolenic acid), vitamin H.

The agents according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, C, E and H. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinamide and biotin are particularly preferred. Very particular preference is given to using D-panthenol as care substance, if appropriate in combination with at least one of the abovementioned silicone derivatives.

If, therefore, a particularly flexible hold is desired, the compositions according to the invention may contain panthenol instead of or in addition to glycerol and / or propylene glycol. In a preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention contain panthenol, preferably in an amount of 0.05 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total agent.

As a conditioner, the compositions according to the invention may further contain at least one plant extract. Usually these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant. The extracts of green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime , Wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.

The agent may further contain at least one lipid as a care substance. Lipids suitable according to the invention are phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, and also the substances known under the INCI names linoleic amidopropyl PG-dimonium chlorides phosphates, cocamidopropyl PG-dimonium chlorides phosphates and stearamidopropyl PG-dimonium chlorides phosphates. These are sold, for example, by the company Mona under the trade names Phospholipid ^EFA® , Phospholipid ^PTC® and Phospholipid ^SV® . The agents according to the invention preferably contain the lipids in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the total application preparation.

Furthermore, oil bodies are suitable as a care substance.

The natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies include, for example: vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils. liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether Di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n Undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The compounds are available as commercial products 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) - cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred. Esteröle. Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C ₆ - C ₃₀ fatty acids with C ₂ - C ₃₀ fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ^®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol ^® V).

Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2- ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonat, butanediol di-isostearate, Neopentylglykoldicaprylat, symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in DE-OS 197 56 454, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylylcarbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),

Trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol,

Fatty acid partial glycerides, which are understood to mean monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. With the use of technical products production reasons may still contain small amounts of triglycerides. The partial glycerides preferably follow the formula (D4-I), CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _m R ¹

CHO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ² (D4-I)

CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _q R ³ in which R ¹ , R ² and R ³ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of these groups represents a Acyl radical and at least one of these groups is hydrogen. The sum (m + n + q) is 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25. Preferably, R ^{1 is} an acyl radical and R ² and R ^{3 are} hydrogen and the sum (m + n + q) is 0. Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic , Elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Preferably, oleic acid monoglycerides are used.

The amount used of the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies in the compositions according to the invention is usually from 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total application preparation, preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.1 to 15% by weight. %.

By adding a UV filter, both the agents themselves and the treated fibers can be protected from the harmful effects of UV radiation. Preferably, therefore, at least one UV filter is added to the agent. The suitable UV filters are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred. The UV filters preferred according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

The UV filters are usually contained in amounts of 0.01-5 wt .-%, based on the total application preparation. Amounts of 0.1-2.5 wt .-% are preferred.

In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention also contains one or more substantive dyes. This allows the treated keratin fiber not only to be temporarily patterned when the agent is applied, but also dyed at the same time. This may be particularly desirable if only a temporary dyeing is desired, for example, with eye-catching fashion colors, which can be removed again by simple washing from the keratinic fiber. Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones, indophenols or cationic substantive dyes used. Particularly preferred are cationic dyes cationic triphenylmethane dyes such as Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14,

aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group, such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, as well as

- substantive dyes containing a heterocycle having at least one quaternary nitrogen atom. The dyes, which are also known by the names Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51, are here very particularly preferred cationic substantive dyes.

The cationic direct dyes, which are sold under the trademark Arianor ^®, according to the invention are also very particularly preferred cationic direct dyes. Furthermore, the agents of the invention may also contain naturally occurring dyes, such as those in henna red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile flower, sandalwood, black tea, buckthorn bark, sage, bluewood, madder root, Catechu, Sedre and alkano root are included.

The agents according to the invention according to this embodiment preferably contain the substantive dyes in an amount of 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, based on the total agent.

It is preferred according to the invention that the agents according to the invention are free of oxidation dye precursors. Oxidation dye precursors are classified into so-called developer components and coupler components. The developer components form the actual dyes under the influence of oxidizing agents or of atmospheric oxygen with one another or with coupling with one or more coupler components.

The formulation of the compositions according to the invention can be carried out in all forms customary for styling agents, for example in the form of solutions which can be applied to the hair as hair lotions or pump or aerosol spray, in the form of creams, emulsions, waxes, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions or other preparations suitable for use on the hair. The agents according to the invention are preferably made up as hair cream or hair gel, in particular as hair gel.

A second object of the invention is the use of the compositions according to the invention for the temporary deformation of hair and / or hair care.

The compositions of the invention and products containing these agents, in particular hair gels or hair creams, are characterized in particular by the fact that they give the treated hair a very strong, lasting hairstyle hold and the hair remains flexible. If the product is formulated as a hair gel, the result is a gel with a doughy consistency, which nevertheless can be distributed evenly and without dripping on the hair. It is inventively preferred to use the agent of the first subject of the invention as a leave-on hair treatment agent.

A third aspect of the invention is a method for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, wherein the agent according to the invention of the first subject of the invention is applied to the keratin-containing fibers.

It is inventively preferred if the keratin-containing fibers are brought into shape before, during or after the application of the agent according to the invention.

Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention, in the context of the method according to the invention, not to rinse out the agent according to the invention from the keratin-containing fibers.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the present invention without limiting it in any way.

B e i s p e e l e

Unless otherwise stated, the following quantities are by weight. The styling gels A to D according to the invention were prepared according to the following table.

Polyacrylic acid (about 89% active ingredient content, INCI name: Carbomer) (3V Sigma)

² crosslinked acrylic acid copolymer, white powder (INCI name: Acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) (Noveon),

³ solution of about 2 wt .-% 2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one in about 83.5 wt .-% phenoxyethanol, 12.5 wt .-% propane-1, 2-diol and about 2 wt. % Water (INCI name: phenoxyethanol, methylisothiazolinone) (Rohm & Haas),

⁴ N, N, N ', N', - tetrakis (2-hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine (INCI name: tetrahydroxypropyl ethylene diamine) (BASF)

⁵ Copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone / N-vinylcaprolactam / N- (3-dimethylaminopropyl) methacrylamide and 3- (methacryloylamino) propyl-lauryl-dimethylammonium chloride (active substance 30% by weight in water / ethanol, INCI name: Polyquaternium-69) (ISP)

⁶ Copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate (60:40) (48-52% active in water, INCI name: VP / VA copolymer) (BASF).

Each of the formulations A to D was tested on a test person on the hair. For this purpose, a sufficient amount of gel was placed on the palm and distributed in the hair. The hair was then styled and shaped. The resulting hairstyle had a perfect flexible hold without the formation of film pimples. Formulations C and D provided ultra strong hold. Formulation D showed a slight clouding / discoloration and caused in comparison to Formulation C a poorer hairstyle hold.

Claims

Patent claims

1. Agent for the treatment of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, containing in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

(a) at least one amphiphilic, cationic polymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (I), at least one structural unit of the formula (II), at least one structural unit of the formula (III) and at least one structural unit of the formula (IV)

wherein

R ¹ and R ⁴ independently represent a hydrogen atom or a

Methyl group,

X ¹ and X ² independently of one another represent an oxygen atom or a group NH,

A ¹ and A ² independently of one another represent a group ethane-1, 2-diyl, propane-1, 3-diyl or butane-1, 4-diyl,

R ² , R ³ , R ⁵ and R ⁶ independently of one another represent a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl group,

R ⁷ is a (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) alkyl group and (b) at least one polyol.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that A ¹ and A ² are independently ethane-1, 2-diyl or propane-1, 3-diyl.

3. Composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that R ² , R ³ , R ⁵ and R ⁶ are independently of one another methyl or ethyl, in particular methyl.

4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that R ⁷ represents decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, hexadecyl, octadecyl, eicosyl or docosyl.

5. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the amphiphilic, cationic polymer is selected from at least one polymer comprising the following structural units of the formulas (I), (II), (III-8) and (IV- 8th) wherein R ⁷ is a (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) alkyl group.

6. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it contains the amphiphilic, cationic polymers in an amount of 0.05 wt .-% to 15.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably of 0.05 wt. % to 10.0 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.1 to 5.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition contains.

7. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it contains the polyols in an amount of 0.05 wt .-% to 15.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.05 wt .-% to 10 , 0 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.1 to 5.0 wt.%, In each case based on the weight of the composition contains.

8. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the amphiphilic, cationic polymers (a) and the polyols (b) in a molar ratio of 1 to 50 to 50 to 1, in particular from 1 to 30 to 30 to 1 , most preferably from 1 to 10 to 10 to 1, are used.

9. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the polyols have a chemical structure which is composed exclusively of carbon atoms, hydrogen atoms and oxygen atoms and has a hydrocarbon skeleton, to which at least two hydroxyl groups (in particular four hydroxy groups) bind and to which bind the oxygen atoms only as hydroxy groups (-OH) and / or as ether functionalities (--O-) to the hydrocarbon skeleton.

10. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the polyols are present at 25 ⁰ C and a pressure of 1 atm as a solid.

11. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the polyols (b) are selected from at least one compound of the group which is formed from sorbitol, inositol, xylitol, mannitol, gluconolactone, glucuronic acid, 1, 2.6 Hexanetriol, hydroxyethyl sorbitol, phytantriol, hydroxypropyl phytantriol, lactitol, maltitol, pentaerythritol, polyglycerol-3, glucose, lactose, maltose, polyglycerol-4, polyglycerol-6, polyglycerol-10, polyglycerol-20, polyglycerol-40, tripropylene glycol, especially sorbitol.

12. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that in addition at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer is contained.

13. A composition according to claim 12, characterized in that additionally contained as a film-forming and / or consolidating polymer is a nonionic polymer selected from homopolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and / or copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone.

14. Composition according to claim 12 or 13, characterized in that the film-forming and / or setting polymers in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%, in particular from 2.0 wt .-% to 10, 0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition are included.

15. Use of a composition according to at least one of claims 1 to 13 for the temporary deformation of hair and / or hair care.